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@Hyaenidae this guide was given to me by @ELNINO when he sold the car to me.I think this is much more relevant to us as the person who has written this has done it on a 2008 lancer ex.Believe we can use this along with what @Davy has mentioned above.

I am also contributing..

None of the Axio variants came with Cruise Control. Even the normal Corolla for MOST markets did not come with it. Heck even the Allion/Premio does not come with it so a car that is in a lower segment would not come with it. The opening you see could be because the steering wheels are shared between other Toyota models which may have cruise control. It is either that or the opening you are talking about is a service access slot. Installing a cruise control system is not a matter of plugging in a switch or steering wheel. It involved more electronic components that work with the ECU to control the throttle, brake, etc....Since the car model did not come with a cruise control..that means you will have to find an after market system that works with the Axio components. In Sri Lanka even if you find one what you wold find are cheap Chinese ones that are difficult to trust (don't forget..the cruise control system can compromise the safety of the car). EDIT: I stand corrected : 2017/Oct updates to the Axio includes Cruise Control as standard to the Hybrid WxB and Hybrid G variants. Further clarification : Cruise Control was offered on the Allion/Premio as standard on the 2L variants and not on the others. That still seems to be the case. However, with the introduction of Safety Sense on Toyota cars, the ECU seems to be prep'd up for Cruise Control and it seems ot be a matter of activating it. Thus, there possibly could be many retro-fitted/activated cars with Cruise Control.

t's like playing NFS MW back in the day... 2nd pic is buying an entry level car at the start of the game and 1st pic is the car after many visits to the tuning shop, ready to face Razor in his ill-gotten BMW

Mostly Baseless, I think as: While it's true that a car sitting in traffic vs a car running on the highway will take longer to reach its 10,000km oil change mark as long as you change the oil within the 10,000km limit or within 1 year whichever comes first; generally you are well within the tolerances of oil life and lubrication property lifespan that most Fully Synthetic oil is designed for. Also please note that while some oils are marketed as synthetic engine oil sometimes they are synthetic oil blends. (Synthetic oil + mineral oil. This applies to fancy name brands such as mobil as well -Only some grades of mobil synthetic oils are fully synthetic, some are blends.) So the lubrication properties and the oil change interval may vary based on this fact. Also at the end of the day there is definitely no guarantee that if you use fully synthetic oil your car will run past the 200,000km mark with no problems, it will not have engine sludge etc. But what you are doing right now (using fully synthetic oil and changing it at the 5000km mark) will certainly help keep your engine in optimal condition as much as possible. And hopefully you will be able to use the same car past 200,000km as well. By stretching out the oil changes to 10,000km while using fully synthetic oil will you be able to do the same: Probably. Would I recommend it? I don't see an issue. Do I do the same: Yes ( I don't use the same brand of fully synthetic oil as you though) Can I guarantee that this is good for your engine and that you will have no issues running the engine past 200,000km? No. Can I guarantee that by using Mobil fully synthetic oil you can stretch your oil changes to 10,000km and run the car past 200,000km without any issues; No- No guarantee. And if anyone gives you such a guarantee I would be extremely skeptical. Will you probably be okay stretching the oil changes out to 10,000km with Mobil fully synthetic? Yes. But that would be the same for any well known name brand of fully synthetic engine oils (including Mobil, Castrol etc and most likely Havoline as well.)

Using a lower pressure rated cap will cause the coolant to boil and evaporate. Quite possible that the wrong spec cap is the cause. Just keep an eye on the coolant level for some time just to be sure that there are no leaks under pressure. when you the system is pressurized properly, some leaks that did not show up at low pressure may show up. (None will be there if you did a proper job in the first place. But it seems like you didn't?) Top off the lost volume with the same coolant. Happy motoring!

AFAIK cruise control is standard for G and WXB grades. I fixed the cruise control for my father's 2015 model Aqua. I got it done from P*t*o L*nk* Polhengoda. But it's not just a fixed cruise control switch. It needs to change Clock Spring (spiral cable) also. What they said was YOM 2015 onward cruise control can be fitted to any grade but before 2015 YOM only if it had an LCD meter panel. Best thing is to speak to them and see I think.

Thanks! I'll avoid draining the engine block then. The workshop manual calls for draining the engine block via the "cylinder block drain plug", that's why I was contemplating if it should be done (step 2)

I'm a fan of body coloured mirrors and less chrome on cars that have a sporty look. But that's just me. It looks alright. ? More or less. But since I don't use the flushing chemical, I don't do most of what's mentioned in step 2 and 3 (leaving the engine running with the hose running water into the radiator). As I mentioned earlier, there's no specific way to drain the engine block. When you drain coolant from the radiator, most if not all coolant in the engine block will flow to the radiator under gravity and exit the system. So you are draining the engine block as well. In summary, this is what I do: 1. While the engine is cool, remove the radiator cap and expansion tank cap. Remove the drain plug and let all the coolant drain out. Prior to doing this, it's good to have left the car idle with heater on so that the coolant goes through the core and the thermostat opens. But do not open the radiator cap until the engine is reasonably cool. Use an old rag to open the cap if it's warm, incrementally opening it to vent the pressure. And be careful. 2. Plug the drain and fill the radiator with water. Drain again. Repeat until you see clear water draining out. One or two repeats would do. 3. Empty the expansion tank and rinse well with water. On the EX, the expansion tank can't be taken out easily, so removing the rubber hose at the bottom of the expansion tank is how you'd drain it. Keep the hose off while you rinse with water. 4. Once done, connect all hoses, plug the radiator drain and fill the radiator with coolant. Fill the expansion tank halfway in between the min and max markers. 5. With the radiator cap off, start the car. Let it idle for 20 minutes with the heater on. This will bleed the air out. 6. You're done. Keep an eye on the temperature gauge and expansion tank coolant level for the next 20 - 50km.

What @Twin Turbo..sell the petrol buy a diesel...or if you are planning on buying one..instead of buying a conversion...but an actual diesel. You are not looking at some rare car....there are plenty around....

yes..there are few places in Darley Road where you can get this job done...do you have anymore opening in the car because the darlry road place might interested to install few propellers too...so you can fly... and with the cruise control installation your kmpl figures also going to improve..let us know about the figures once done.. bdw ..how did you get to know about this thing...only handful of people know this..but all are driving Axio Hybrid

Damn than color!! You really know how to keep the car pristine..

That shine! ? Did the chrome side mirror covers come with the car? I doubt they did. Ooh I had forgotten that yours had an Evo spoiler! Love how the wheels fill those arches - just the right amount of low. ? I just noticed that the body coloured moulding that goes across the middle of the doors are missing in mine. Searched local classifieds and found out that none of the cars here have it. By the way @Hyaenidae, here's a DIY thread for you if you want to attempt it yourself. Note that a flushing liquid is used here, but you can skip that step. I'm sure you can pull it off. I have lost count of the number of times I've done coolant changes myself - it's that easy.

I have seen one

You're living the good life then @speed8 !! I envy you! (Dad taking care of most of the bills, and your mother still cooking for you and and taking care of everything else! Man those were the times! The best years of my life really.... )

@Devinda_Z as I looked around it the air intake lines, there seems to be no MAF sensor in this 1.0L engine. It’s a MAP and Intake air temperature combination that’s used. I’m no pro on this, but that’s what I understood. Correct me if I’m wrong.

Hamme yako.. ?????? she is a stunner isn’t it? Agreed on the high spoiler. Gonna need your bumpers and side skirts as well.. not to mention the wheels..

He is probably one of those F&F wannabes. The guy who wants to buy the flashiest car with the biggest exhaust to "stray away from the crowd of Toyotas and be a true street king" or whatever corny stuff they come up with. You tend to see alot of these so called "car enthusiasts/petrolheads/car guys/street racers" in Instagram, having that tiktok stigma also. I won't be surprised if they pointed at the alternator and said "nice turbo machan".

What Kavzz said... besides, it's the easiest fix you could try yourself ne? If you manage to borrow a battery from someone (say, a neighbor) it wouldn't even cost you a rupee to find out what's wrong

(Fat guy problems!) And commuting while 'hun-angry' has proven to be the root cause of many spousal disagreements in our household @Devinda_Z so really its a heath and wellness issue at this point not to!

1.Your Insurance company - SLIC 2. Insurance type Full or 3rd party - Full insurance 3.How much per year with your Vehicle type and valuation -75 thousand for a vehicle valued at 3.1 million (although I got free car valuation from several companies and I got pretty different results, some better I would say) 4.How fast they paid your last insurance claim - Very quick and without any problems 5. How is their customer service when claiming - I'm satisfied with everything so far, great customer service

Just saw ad for THIS> Mercedes benz w115 petrol book, 6 sri 93XX, with all original document from current owner, original book only 3 owners. contact me for information 077 9759567 (only book.. no car) im asking 1.85 and negotiable and you can give me a offer. So this person is committing fraud right? And the buyer is going to do what with this exactly: Perpetuate another fraud by altering a car's details to match the documents? It blows my mind that people would be brazen enough to do this so openly?!

So I surprisingly received a call from S******d Motors regarding an online complaint I filed against them a month or so back. It was entered into the system against my vehicle number and I received an acknowledgement so here's hoping they take this into consideration. If they do the vehicular equivalent of "spitting on the fries" by adding some sugar into my engine oil at the next service in response, I'll be sure to let you all know as well Here's the excerpt (company name redacted): Customer Complaint Dear Sir/Madam, Thank you for your complaint which is received by us and has been recorded for monitoring the corrective action. We always value your feedback to help us improve our service delivery. ID: CMP10197 Date: 2020-05-18 Process: A/M After Sales Customer: Misnad Haque Category: Quality related complaints Failure: Customer has several complaints about Rathanapitiya Automobile Workshop. 1.Adding wrong lubricants. 2.Low quality paint job. 3.A/C repairing issue. Presented below is the original:- " My vehicle (Civic 2018 FK hatchback) was personally imported from the UK in 2018 direct from the factory through an intermediate handler. At the very first service I performed at S******d Motors Rattanapitiya, my car was fed 5W-30 semi synthetic oil (Mobil Super 2000), which goes against the ACEA standards and fully synthetic recommendation in the manual. Upon challenging them, I was told that fully synthetic oils lead to sludge formation even on new engines, which if I'm not mistaken is incorrect. I had to force them to use 5W-30 Fully Synthetic ACEA A5 Castrol Edge oil from the next service onwards. Secondly, I had to get my antifreeze topped up and they had used an off-branded one (Seiken) claiming that it was as good as the one recommended (Honda Antifreeze Type 2) and mixing the two was harmless. The manual states otherwise. What is even stranger is that being a dealer for genuine parts and the Honda service line, you do not even carry the genuine lubricants. Regardless, I eventually had to take the car back for bodywork repairs after a minor accident on the rear left passenger door. The body-shop in Rattanapitiya managed to repair this and paint it, however there were awful paint drip marks as well as over-spray all over the car, which I had to clean up at a different detailing center. Another service was done and the Rattanapitiya service center hadn't fitted the glove-box dampener properly and I had to return to get that done. This happened to me thrice so far. I eventually had issues with a foul odor from the AC system and the service advisor at Rattanapitiya simply said that nothing could be done about it apart from me having to use some charcoal overnight in the cabin area or run the blower on high with the heater engaged. They were extremely reluctant to inspect even the cabin filter or drain tubing. After a while, my AC system sprung a leak and I had to ge t the condenser replaced. As I was out of warranty, I had to pay a hefty sum to do this. However, they claimed to be out-of-stock on the condenser so I had to get it replaced elsewhere. The foul smell from the AC was back and upon getting it inspected at a different service center (Hybrid Hub), they had identified traces of rodent entry just by looking at the cabin filter. I took the car back to S******d Motors Rattanapitiya since I preferred having a dealer to clean up the evaporator and vent system. I was then informed that they did not have R1234yf refrigerant at all nor did they have a recovery machine for it in case they needed to recharge it if the evaporator was removed. To my surprise, they claimed that the same refrigerant could be mixed with R134a via adapters and they had done it for numerous other vehicles. Agreeing to all this and leaving it to their better judgment, I asked them to also swap out the cabin filter and clean up the whole AC system. They replaced the activ ated charcoal filter that was originally in place with a standard paper filter and I can now smell fumes from outside air coming even though the AC is on recirculation mode. What's even worse is that they claimed to clean the unit, however only used a blast of compressed air in the vents. Further, on inspection myself they had also closed the exterior vent flap without my permission and hence it was only stuck on recirculation without the ability to ventilate. I had to return back later in the day to get this fixed. The foul odor returned a day later and I had to take matters in my own hands so I had to purchase and use a foaming evaporator coil cleaner, which I used. It did reduce the odor significantly, however I still need to get the evaporator cleaned. In summary, I am utterly disappointed with the service and knowledge level of your staff as it seems they are unable to handle newer vehicle models. This is the first and last time I will ever purchase a Honda in Sri Lanka and it is all because of your incompetence. Thank you. "

1. SLIC 2. Full 3. 69K for 5 million with no claim bonus

1.your Insurance company - SLIC 2. Insurance type Full or 3rd party - FULL 3.How much per year with your Vehicle type and valuation - 65k for 3.5 Mil (Toyota Vitz 2016) 4.How fast they paid your last insurance claim - No claims from this vehicle but in my prev. vehicle which was also insured from the same company, it was settled as a fast claim where the agent estimated the claim amount, I agreed to the amount and the company directly put money in to my Bank Account so I only had to repair it and show them (showing them is optional but its better to do it so they update that in the system and won't have problems in future claims). Their instant claim approval is only for under Rs. 50,000 claim. I also claimed another one prior to the last, it came to about 45,000. It took some time to process as the garage initially gave a lower quotation and while doing the job they said there are some damages they have missed so that the garage had to re-apply for an extension of the claim amount etc. The garage took care of most of the documentation process apart from the initial claim form so it wasn't a hassle for me. However, I took the car home after repairs before settling as the garage owner knows me well and after about 1 week I paid him after I got the money to my Bank. There were no deductions for labor costs but I had to incur about Rs. 1500 out of pocket due to a replacement part being more expensive than SLIC approved value (side valance). Overall good service not much of delays if you follow up regularly. 5.How is their customer service when claiming - I am dealing with an agent so I get him to do all the things internally. They are not the best in customer service (maybe because they're gov. owned). but it's no reason to boycott them. 8/10 would recommend SLIC.

I only went ahead with coop because of their low premium when comparing with others at that point. Plus I had my previous car’s insurance transferred to the new one so I only had to pay the remaining balance. A friend of mine who is with coop told me that it took him a month to get his claim post repairing his car over a small accident.