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Alternatively, you also have the option of approaching padi baage jayas**dara with a bunch of other docs/similar people and asking him to issue an import license for the parts that are needed for your mahindra or micro.

What do you mean Sri Lankan Assembled car? Micro? Mahendra? As for your permit usually there are the bunch of importers who'd happily take it off your hands for you.

This is one of those rare occasions I am actually agreeing with @gayanath...servicing and costs associated with it have been completely blown out of proportion in Sri Lanka mostly by service station operators. They are literally a mafia by themselves and it is because of them and the cheap parts suppliers that has held back this particular side of the industry for ages. Cars are not that fickle even when it is loaded with tech. Figuring out the Hybrid system status in a Toyota does not require processes that need space age technology. If the car is showing errors..do a scan...heck..do a scan anyway...(for the life of me I cannot imagine why plugging in a scanner costs so much in SL...in Vietnam, East Timor and Malawi the agent plug in scanners for the heck of it..for nothing as well !). I know a poor guy who had to pay 7500LKR to get a sensor on his front bumper and another one behind the grill emblem cleaned off mud. WTH ??? About not all errors trigger check lights....used to be true...but with newer systems all the critical components do trigger check lights. If something is causing a system to start going bad..then regular checkups might detect it and fix it before the check lights go on. Again..cars are not that fickle that the check engine light goes off as soon as something goes slightly out of the stock calibration. Yes...cleaning the Hybrid system's vent is not that complicated. As long as the vents are cleaned it will do just fine until an annual check or something of the sort (Japanese cars are subject to an annual maintenance check hich is semi-legal..and this checks all these). Let's not even get in to the whole big deal of washing the under carriage ! Geez...not rocket science ! Then there is the whole Toyota/Nissan/Honda oil. None of these manufacturers make oil. They buy it from other suppliers. But car owners are told otherwise. But then you cannot blame the owners as well because the parts suppliers just bring in all kinds of fake and cheap ##@@! Manufacturer's parts are not the best that is out there for the car.... Anyway...done with my rant....

Do not under estimate..... I m doing my services perfectly at right time (but never do unnecessary things) A story fabricated by poor service guys..... ?. Engine oil - Toyota 0W20 - 1st can - Rs. 4,800 (2015), Last Can - Rs. 6,325 (2020) Oil Filter - Rs. 1,030 to 1,980 Depend on Toyota or VIC Air Filter - Toyota - Rs. 3,650, Cabin Filter - VIC Rs. 2,800 - 3,600 (You can use 3 VIC's for Toyota cost) Just rubbish... The car itself giving the warning (check engine ) if such. Why you pay for it??? Fan inlet cleaning is nothing for anyone who is having a vacuum cleaner. You are wrong.... HV battery - you could run the car even with check engine. Safe mode runs with 100% engine so fuel efficiency will drop, but car runs safely so could come home easily. (Believe me, two known cars still running with HV battery fault since 1.5 years and 11 months) 12v battery - same with another automatic car. Jump start is possible and no harm Again..... A fabricated story. Opposite is the truth. The first set of tires cost me Rs. 60,000 (Bridgestone - EP300). Still running with Everything is written (as a research and as for fun..... That's why I could answer for you guys ??? ) Buy cheap (Car cost + battery cost 285 k), use cheap and sell cheap ...... No difference but you could use bit new car + touch the technology

Hmmm depends on your requirements and the priority you place on whatever those requirement are @Husny Older cars will have all the same costs (be it a little less purely because the vehicle value will be lower) & additional costs like maintenance - wear & tear items You need to budget for consumables and general wear items like tires, batteries, rubber bushes, shock absorbers, timing belt, spark plugs, filters, etc etc The list is long so it depends on what exactly you are hoping to achieve

Could you name few examples ? (I mean the things you could identify by scan for preventive actions before triggering check engine) * BTW, actually there are some parameters giving some indications, but those service guy's (who scan the cars in SL) don't know about them.? Reply is only for the particular matter he raised related to HV battery (I clearly mentioned "HV battery" first). HV battery issue will pop up check engine (nothing like "don't see ready light") but the car is safe with all other systems functioning properly. Toyota could have been made the car as un drivable (no "ready" mode) with HV battery fault if necessary, but they made this drivable. So my friend........ Toyota design engineers should immediately fire from the Job and no one else should hire them after that (permanent blacklisted) except for Janitor jobs before me. Isn't it? ?? The reply is not related to any other issues. (not because of this being a law class, I didn't mention the exceptions ??? ). The cars running with HV Battery issues are facts, but do I recommended ?? Anyway, do you know how many Toyota Hybrids (specially Aqua, Axio and Prius) are running on SL roads with HV battery faults? We should know the reality as well .........

@HaeylM well, I don't know about Toyota hybrids but, the servicing cost of a petrol and a hybrid is the same at the Honda agents and they don't do any fancy scans as you mentioned during the service. And the full service cost is around 13,000 LKR without including wheel alignment (around 2k) or air filter change (which costs 10k at the agents). I know that Toyota hybrids need some attention to their battery cooling system cause of dust blocking the air vents sort of thing and that TL charge an additional 2,500 LKR over the normal service cost if cleaning is required. Apart from that there can be some oxidization in the battery terminals as well but would not need attention at every service I guess. Hybrids usually do indicate if anything is wrong in the system and Honda hybrids give the usable battery capacity as a percentage when scanned via the correct software tool unlike Toyota hybrids. So, I don't think it is necessary to scan your system each and every service. Some service stations tend to take the owners for a ride as well highlighting the complexity of this and that. If you really fear about any errors you can get a OBD scanner and do some regular scanning to make sure there are no errors. Tyres cost the same irrespective of being a hybrid or a petrol. The cost will depend on the brand and the size profile and the fuel filter, spark plugs and each and every other routine maintenance applies irrespective of being a petrol or a hybrid. However, I do agree that second hand market prices and battery replacement costs would make hybrids unattractive to a typical car buyer. However, the maintenance is not as high as you mentioned above cause I've owned a 2nd hand hybrid for over 4 years and that's my experience (this might vary with the brand and the model). But, the reality is the world is moving towards electrification of vehicles and the hybrids are an inter state till EVs are perfected. Even petrol engines are being down sized and turbo charged as a consequence of this trend.

No worries @ShintaroX. And as you posted the more precise JDM model name, technically; I believe you posted the better response. Please do us the honour of taking this turn: All yours!

Nope...dying a slow death would be better as you know that you would die and soon all the pain would end. Here..he knows he will have to live thinking of this the rest of his living days

This has to be the worst feeling in the world, aside from dying a slow death.

Yes Devinda, they don’t employ the person but it’s through them only he can be contacted.

That is a chaser I'm 99% sure. Come let's have some fun.

Nicely done: ? You have the floor! @AVANTE (Assuming I got the Toyota Chaser reply right on the one posted by @ShintaroX)

@Devinda_Z : I was just waiting for @ShintaroX to confirm. But at the risk of offending him, I'll take a whirl as I figure the young champions will be raring to go; now that there's a bit of blood in the water! I had best get out of the way and fast!

Basic SW knowledge. A proper scan Reads the ROM, with live Frames can even read the RAM. Therefore you can see errors that are not yet confirmed as leading to a unhealable system failure (Check Engine Light). Before a Check Engine error is shown to the driver, many real-time errors discovered while driving are filtered/debounced. But it doesn't mean these Errors are not important, they are indicators of a disaster waiting to happen. for most raw-errors the steps before showing a Check Engine Light are as follows. IC detects Hardware Error -> HW-filter -> Error Debouncing (event Counter and Time-based) -> Writein RAM -> Write in ROM at end of driving cycle -> same error detected in n (=3 usually) driving cycles -> illuminate Check Engine Light So saying that its OKAY to drive with check Engine light ON is wrong and unsafe. As an Engineer you should discourage people from doing so, its even an illegal state to drive in US,EU and Japan(like drunk driving).

With the current import restrictions in place the permit is just a piece of paper unless if you can speak to Micro or Mahindra and ask how you can work with them to get yourself a vehicle (not sure if they also can locally produce as importation of parts is restricted). Honestly speaking I dont know for how long the restrictions will be in effect. Solution for you is to forget the permit and buy something from the market without using the permit.

yep . its mentioned on my permit ( can purchase sri lankan assembeld vehicles ) , How can I find an importer to sell this permit these days . because of limitation they dont like to buy it . am I correct ?

Clearly there is no shortage of fun ? eh @Gummybr ? @AVANTE, @ShintaroX, @speed8 I think @Gummybr just threw down the gauntlet ? @Kavvz you're up next - don't let the oldies down! #nopressure

Is he referring to what Ideal is assembling here?? ?

Srilankan assembled car?

Yo how the hell is ur car still running? surprised that your car displays the ready light everyday! Dude hybrids have a lot more sophisticated than a normal petrol car, Check the price difference at K****Park, A***Mi**j, A*W or TL. Firstly if u are indeed using the toyota recommended items, the oil itself costs around 8.5K minimum if u go for the cheapest(GTX), and if ur running the recommended 0w-20 or 5-30 Fully synthetic( Castrol edge/Magnatec etc), it costs close to 10K or more for a full oil change. Add 1250 for the fuel filter. And then for the air filer that you're supposed to change at 35-40K another 1500 approx. (cant remember) (recommended by TL) Plus u cant take it to a regular hacksmith cuz u got a huge battery pack in the back so u gotta get someone who knows to check the battery fan and plug in their scanner to make sure that ur batteries are fine and are running at proper temperatures and voltages. This costs more. BTW as your comment the battery report and car health report is not to extend its life but to know what your car needs atm, the worst thing that can happen with an unpredictable battery is to go on a long distance business trip, stop the car at a coffee shop and not being able to start it back because you dont see the ready light or dont understand jack that is shown in the display. Usual full service comes down to around 18K including parts and lubricants 2 years back. (Sidenote: Hybrids need servicing more regularly than normal petrol cars so ur going to spend roughly this every few months depending on how much you use your car) Finally uve got tyres that cost close to 12K for a decent one that usually degrades at 45-50K. so 48K for all four R15 tyres. Continental is a little expensive than dunlop, Apollo is a little cheaper. Also an added side note, you might want to do a fuel filter change at least once u reach 90K, the fuel in sri lanka is not the best and often theres a lot of gunk there that might give u that subtle vibration when it switches to engine power and sluggish feel at 40KMH. Anyway not an expert here! Im not sure how u come up with 3.87 per KM for service charge tho! IMO it was not that profitable (Initial cost + running cost) compared to a petrol hatchback, Specially considering the depreciation and the maintenance cost, plus the inevitable battery replacement that costs around 390K.

Members, I am not advertising. I noticed about W/S crack on one reply to this topic. If that member can show me the car or send me a reply with a picture, I will be able to advice for that problem. Sylvester Wijesinghe Sylvi.

Not a fan of the car and it's idea, but can't deny that the behind is actually pretty good. A lesson learn here too!

True @AVANTE. But I learnt something valuable today: "Not all pretty behinds need be expensive nor need they be european...local is okay"

@Gandalf there were a few doctor owned & lecturer owned ones which came up for sale at various points in time so i wonder if there were permit cars which came as manuals to keep the CIF down or something

I had to change my filter once a rat ate through it. Wonder if this possibility is included in the calculations of this ?@gayanath

These numbers rarely mean anything here!!!! Personal opinion!

Your budget category presents some really interesting options : Of your choices as @AVANTE and @Devinda_Z correctly mentioned the 406 might not be the best option (but dear lord that's one sweet car from the 90's) the FB14, and 110 will be the 'sensible' options but those two cars in particular are prone to be used by users who tend to go el-cheapo on maintenance and end up mucking the cars. The Soluna will be a relatively newer car. I might suggest the Familia/323 out of the lot though I don't know exactly how the spare-part availability is in Kandy - we had a couple of Mazda 323's in the office that were routinely abused but still refused to break-down and kept running and running and running. The Presea is a slightly left-field choice but not a bad one ... it has the same internals of a FB14 but looks a bit cooler. Interesting question - it would be good if you actually got used to a manual. Manuals will be cheaper too - in my personal opinion diesel manuals are easier to drive ( more forgiving - if your clutch balancing isn't up to the mark the diesel will be a little reasonable and not stall unlike the fussy petrol) The AD wagon : The Y11 will be a little beyond your budget (so is the same generation Wingroad) the Y10 AD is a very uncomfortable machine (trust me I've traveled a lot in one ) but a good choice if you regularly haul stuff the car is cheap (saw 300- Y10 with Automatic transmission up for sale for 12.5) - these cars were used as delivery vehicles in Japan (van) the wingroad is more expensive and a more refined car. The Avenir is the diesel counterpart of the same timeline. The Nissan Cefiro is a lovely car (used to drive my uncles cefiro quite a bit and loved it ) plenty of power and comfort but yes it is quite thirsty. I have only once albeit briefly driven a diesel Bluebird (and that too long ago when I was just out of school or so) - but for some reason it had a lorry vibe to it. The Primera is a really nice car - if OP can find a good specimen I'd say go for it since with cars this age fuel figures are not reliable and may vary from model to model and despite popular perception even the 'frugal' cars like FB14 never really achieve anything above 7-8 KMPL. I suggest you check out a few cars and figure out what actually rocks your boat. Also keep in mind that with cars of this vintage you have to keep some cash in hand for repairs. Our friend @PreseaLover had a hideous experience with a Cefiro a while back despite taking all possible precautions. If you're ok with hatches here are a couple of suggestions off the top of my head both of these cars are very common and you will not have part-sourcing nightmares. K11 March - bland little cars that drink up fuel but you wouldn't have too many nightmares maintaining. 2 Door models are waay cheaper. Starlet EP82 : Overpriced since these cars are now mostly bought for conversions. But spare parts will not be a problem as there are thousands of these around. The 4EFE engine is one of the most common and easiest to work with, spares-a-plenty and interchangeable. Infinite customizing potential in case you ever get that idea. [EDIT] Saw a few EP82s for around 1.3 -1.4 that would give you a nice little buffer for potential repairs Also consider the Corolla 2/Tercel (Engine would be the same as Starlet)

OUCH #2

Ouch