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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/16/2020 in all areas

  1. It's a Thursday evening... I finish work with the joy of tomorrow being an off day. I clean up the house a bit and open up AL and find out more sh!t to clean... මොන මගුලක් ද යකෝ මේ?
    6 points
  2. Here's the data for Europe. Knock yourself out. https://www.acea.be/uploads/publications/ACEA_Report_Vehicles_in_use-Europe_2019.pdf I guess you are one of those guys who just doesn't get it. Good luck with your venture.
    3 points
  3. You can find the answer to your problem if you analyze the airline industry. Do wonder why airlines are disposing 20 year old aircrafts which are maintained to the book.
    3 points
  4. It's been over 6 months since the last post on this thread, so I thought of giving a little update about the car. It's been the daily since the day I got it and as I may have mentioned before, I drive it more than my wife does, mainly because I love driving the thing! All I ever did since getting the car is just pump petrol and drive. Nothing else. The 15K km oil change was due (6 months came before 15K, so I stuck to that) and as I mentioned before, there were a couple of other things that were due. So I ordered these parts: Front brake rotors and pads, Front wheel bearings, Engine oil and filter, Transmission oil and filter. I changed the brake pads and rotors at home, was a 30 minute job once I had the car up on jack stands and wheels removed. Since the wheel bearings are press fit onto the hub, a hydraulic press is needed take them out and slot the new ones in. So I had to take the hubs to a garage to get the bearings press fit. Did this while I had the front wheels and brakes out. Found a PDF workshop manual which helped me torque the nuts and bolts to spec. Then came the engine and transmission oil change... I could have done this at home, but draining the oil at home and properly disposing off the oil was a headache, so I took the car to a friend's workshop and got the fluids replaced. Got a wheel alignment done after everything was completed. Then gave the engine a good clean and detailing. The car feels so good to drive now. The groan from the wheel bearings has gone and it feels so much quieter. I managed to tighten some suspension linkages and stuff as well and the steering feels a bit precise and direct now too. The transmission shifts well with no more jerks - even when cold. As I said in another post yesterday, a good transmission oil change goes a long way. Then a few weeks after that.. I saw this on the website on one of the local wreckers. A 323 SP20 in the famous yellow! ? When the car was put on the website, it even had the front pumper and everything, but by the time I got there, someone had ripped it out for the highly desired SP20 fog lamps. The car had suffered a frontal (very minor damage), and written off. Interior was all intact and the engine was also there. I also discovered that the car had just undergone a full front suspension and brake repair. Soon realised I could have swapped the entire brakes and knuckles (which has the bearings) without spending money on that myself, but oh well. But did I just leave? Nope... ripped so many parts from that engine (ignition coils, injectors, crank and cam sensors and even air flow sensor). I thought to myself "if only I had a truck to take this baby home for parts..." ? So that's it so far. I'll be replacing the rear wheel bearings, rotors and brake pads in the coming months. Due to the lockdown situation, I just might do that sooner. I also want to paint all four rims in the stock silver. All four wheels have flaking paint. Also noticed a slightly cracked lower arm bushes, but not too alarming for now. Oh and there's this... ? When the car was sold to me, the front windscreen was replaced as the roadworthy inspection found stone chips on the original one. It's a pretty strict inspection point for roadworthy here in Australia. So anyway, I suspect the dude who installed the windscreen mucked it up because I noticed condensation on that very spot on a cold day as the engine warmed up and I knew there was a leak there due to missing adhesive. So on a very warm day last year (in Summer, I think it was in November), I found a really small crack that had originated from the bottom edge of the windscreen. Then over the months, it kept growing... increasing by about an inch on every warm day. If you look at the crack and notice the spots where the crack has changed direction, those are the spots where it had stopped previously. This is where it's up to now. So now I have to get the windscreen replaced before I am stopped by cops and they mark the car as defective. Will try to share more photos and work in progress if possible. Thanks for reading. ?
    3 points
  5. Chill man! They are rattly smokey rust buckets because of years of abuse, neglect and blotchy repairs. Most countries have annual vehicle inspection to make sure they are roadworthy vehicles. That keeps rust buckets out of the road. Car enthusiasts keep their old cars in pristine condition and keep running them regardless of old they are. Or scrap the old cars are buy new ones. But in SL, decent new cars are prohibitively expensive. On top of that non-existent vehicle inspection and corrupt bureaucracy can keep rust buckets running and treated for artificial inflated prices. There are a few who take exceptional good care of their old cars. But they are not the ones who are looking for a "market price" I reserve my comments on Scotty for another time ?. A quick glance at €L@K!R! shows many threads on 90s vehicles in sinhala. Please make use of your knowledge and wisdom there to enlighten the masses in sinhala about the glory of the 90s cars. While you are at it, please make the maxxa boyzz stop making Frankensteins out of fibre. Peace✌️
    2 points
  6. Meanwhile in Cali people just get the limited model pavement princess! Sold 10 4runners during my short stay at Toyota. Not a single person gave a shat about off roading!
    2 points
  7. I'm away for a few days and everything goes to hell? What's all this?? @Ted, first, you seriously need to stop this. If you found a post to be offensive or insulting, use the "report" button and let the admins and moderators take care of it. You don't have to open a million redundant threads. Secondly, we treat everyone equally, so don't expect members here to worship you just because you are an electrical engineer from Katubedda Campus. Judging people by profession is something that Sri Lanka needs to seriously get over. So just stop it. And stop with all the threats. No matter what kind of education you've received, if you get worked up just because some random person online made a snide remark about you, then that's what makes you... you. Think about that for a second. Now @fiat fan, you don't have to comment on threads for the fun of it. And insulting members with demeaning posts will not be tolerated. So watch your language and what you say. Consider this an informal warning to both of you. Any more of this and you will be issued a warning with demerit points. Path to losing forum membership. Pick what you want. Other members, admins and moderators rely on you to keep the forum running smoothly. If you notice anything out of line or offensive, please use the "Report" button. Thread Locked.
    2 points
  8. I've sort of been off the grid for a few weeks because of so many personal matters including moving house and what not. Finally found the time to post this. Meet the newest addition to our family. A 2003 Mazda 323 Astina SP20 BJ-II J48. It's a 2003 Mazda 323 (JDM version is known as "Familia"). I guess that's pretty clear. "Astina" is the name used for the hatch. The sedan is called the "Protege" (Remember the Mazdaspeed Protege anyone? ?) SP20 is the top of the range model with a 2.0L FS engine (131 horses), sports suspension, different body styling, white gauge cluster, automatic AC etc. BJ is the series. BJ-II (BJ2) is the facelift version. J48 is the very last revision of the BJ series. I was on the lookout for a car to be used as a point A to B car and to be driven on a daily basis to the train station etc. I didn't want it to be boring, hence the SP20. I wanted it to be a small hatch so that my wife can easily drive it (she finds the RalliArt a bit too intimidating due to the power). It was between The 323 and Lancer CS VR-X. Gave up on the Lancer after seeing the options on the Mazda and how popular and rare the SP20 is (sounds like blasphemy I know). After about a month of hunting down one, finally found this beautiful example in Titanium Grey, just 139,000km (remember, we are talking about Australia here and that is a really low mileage). The icing on the cake is that I even got it with 1 year dealer warranty (car had been a trade-in). Of course there's signs of age - a few scratches here and there, wheel paint flaking off, front rotors need to be replaced etc. But it certainly is a zippy little car that's fun to drive. Nardi Torino steering! White gauge cluster The different front end with large fog lights. The FS engine. Note the factory fitted strut bar. I've not seen bonnet and headlight protectors in Sri Lanka, but the car has them installed from the dealership. So the headlights are like brand new -no yellowing. A couple of the SP20 stickers are faded. I've ordered a new set already.
    1 point
  9. My Dear Friends, I thought of publishing an article kind of a thing to a particular community who use vehicles manufacd in 1990's with a huge expectation to relaunch their vehicles as they were in those days but still struggling. Merely due to this reason they tend to sell the vehicle and go for a budget vehicle ( indeed if they could invest more, then they could have bought a luxury car ryt? who then are not in this community). Why they are struggling? Because, 1) Due to lack of knowledge of repair or non availability of quality service centers who do 100% according to the manufacturer's repair recommendations. 2) Due to lack of spare parts or lack of knowledge of OEM or alternative spare parts suppliers. 3) Poor Maintenance due to lack of proper guidance. I created this thread to describe above more in details. I open this to all 1990s vehicle lovers to get together and find solutions to above in SL market.
    1 point
  10. Will do some reaeach on stats and get back to you... cheers...
    1 point
  11. Well simply put - you require a bit of effort to keep the older cars running there is a sizable community of retro car owners in Sri Lanka, and almost all these people are enthusiasts (or just show offs - idiots who rice some nice rides beyond recognition and are the reason you can't find a decent old Civic today) P.S - I'm a huge fan of 80's 90's cars. But sadly even my daily is from 2018
    1 point
  12. I can tell you with confidence that a signifincant population of Malaysia or USA does not use 90s cars. In fact, they are very rarely seen. I can also tell you 90s cars are extremely rare in the UK and Australia. In fact, I would estimate less than 1% of cars on the roads in these countries are from the 90s. While you have quoted Youtube as the source of your information, I have lived in these countries (for at least a year or more and each of them - Malaysia, Australia, US and I'm in the UK at present). In Malaysia, the Proton Saga used to be the most popular taxi. The model has not changed significantly since the 80s. Although you see 80s and 90s looking Proton Sagas on the roads, those are actually manufactured much later (the design did not change until 2010 I think). Same goes with the LTI Hackney Carriage in London. The design is from 1950s, which is still made today with minor differences. In New York, the Yellow Cabs look like they are from the 80s and 90s but they are not. Car makers manufacture the same old model of cars for taxis, long after the actual models have ended production, because taxi companies prefer utility over appearance. Seeing so many of those 'old looking' taxis may have given you the impression that people in these countries prefer old cars. Most countries discourage the use of old cars, because they emit more hazardous gases and particles than modern cars. They also do not contain safety features compared to newer cars. And finally, maintaining 20+ year old piles of metal doesn't make any economic sense to anyone.
    1 point
  13. Thinking about your finance knowledge, I am speechless my friend....?. This clearly shows the collateral damage of the theory based education system prevailing in our land....???
    1 point
  14. Pump and dump stockmarket tactics ???
    1 point
  15. සිංහල? That didn't take an engineering degree to figure out?
    1 point
  16. We already have a section called DIY. You are more than welcome to contribute to it. You can also create a seperate blog with your own DIY projects if you wish.
    1 point
  17. Yes, replace the entire thing. It isn't that expensive.
    1 point
  18. Simple answer, replace the entire unit. As a failure of this will damage the Tbelt.
    1 point
  19. The reason why I asked about the material is to consider it's ability to cause damage to engine internals. Sadly a bit of valve can, so a thorough inspection is necessary on the piston chamber and the piston itself. The economical way is to use a small endoscopic camera, which I'm sure some workshops have but most will not. While you are doing that do a compression and cylinder head leakage test. (they are not the same). This will tell you if there is damage / premature wear caused to the cylinder walls that you can't really see from a camera/ visual inspection, particularly when it comes to values. If compression is ok and no leakages that is a positive sign. The reason I asked about the engine is to consider the possibility of damage caused by small shavings/ particles thrown off out of the exhaust port into the manifold such as a turbo. Thankfully in your case these particles would just flow down the exhaust. And it goes without saying the engine oil needs to be flushed so all particle material is removed. This in the long term can cause premature wear so its imperative this is done. I understand you had certain expectations. But there is an extent to which people can provide a learned opinion based on a few sentences written by somebody. As we do not practice astrology or have a crystal ball, all we can do is guess. And I think across the responses you've had, I think you have gotten a pretty decent set of responses, even if you did not think yourself. On the matter of respect, please remember you came to us asking for advice. So while the responses might not be to your satisfaction, please consider the fact they are given with good intentions. It is up to you to use your intelligence and decide which advice to take and which not to take. This is the case with any forum international or otherwise. Whether you continue to stay in the forum or not is completely up to you. But if you do please be considerate and respectful of other members and they will do the same to you. Attitude doesn't get you anywhere.
    1 point
  20. This thread is now going OT and needs to be locked. Few things i need to mention - Dear OP, 1/ This is a FORUM where people discuss about cars and mechanical problems - not everyone is a mechanic and most of the time people help each other out based on their experience etc. For instance about a year or so back people had issues with the GP1 Oil burn and everyone helped each other out with their experiences short term measures, permanent solutions what to do and not etc. Just an example on how this FORUM was helpful in sorting out mechanical issues. Please note this is a FORUM where people try to help each other out. Not a FREE OF CHARGE VIRTUAL GARAGE. 2/Attitude Matters - the tone of the first post in the thread starts with 'I challenge you...' you can't get someone to help you with that attitude. 3/ Your Issue is specific - and it is really difficult to provide a proper response without actually seeing it. That is the unfortunate truth you don't seem to understand, and what people like Tiv have replied as BEST AS THEY CAN from behind a laptop screen. If people can diagnose issues (cars, machinery - heck even human medical conditions) with just a few lines of description read on a laptop screen that would probably reduce a lot of traffic and benefit the world. Sadly we are not there yet. If there exists an expert who can tell you exactly what is wrong with your engine remotely then that dude better start charging money. This thread has now sunk low to the depths of School Boy level name calling. And your post above says something about leaving university in 2009? You're older than many of us, so with all due respect good sir, please show some maturity. You're a responsible citizen in your Mid 30's so please act like one even in a forum. All things considered I have a suspicion that you're probably trolling - you're probably bored at home and want to wind up people here? Anyway this thread is pointless. I hope you resolve your issues with your car and yourself. Cheers. @Mods - Please lock this thread.
    1 point
  21. That does it. This psycho should be expelled off the forum like a 7-day fermented fart.
    1 point
  22. ?Got some candy yesterday. Can't wait to taste them..?
    1 point
  23. Care to share some enthusiasm? The swift needs no introduction. Along with the Jimny, it's Suzuki's biggest money maker. It's a popular car among young enthusiasts, Tuners and ricers alike in Australia, Pakistan, India, Japan, Europe, Thailand and even here in Sri Lanka. It's the best selling hatchback in some of those countries. Alot has been documented on these cars in the internet due to its popularity as a grocery getter, learner-mobile and fun to drive machine. Suzuki took it rallying too and it is a popular budget track/autocross car. The Go The base JDM version has the M13A (equipped with DOHC & VVT, pushing 91hp) while our car having been the indian ZXi, had the G13BB engine (SOHC & Non-VVT, 86hp) , which is shared with the Zen, Gypsy, Jimny, Cultus & Esteem (not to be confused with the iconic G13B in the Cultus GTi). It's a simple engine, reliable and very economical. Nothing special here. It was discontinued after 2010 but new parts are plenty. Can be ordered from India, Japan, China and some other Suzuki engine parts are interchangeable. The gearbox is a 5-speed, smooth and is nice to use. The clutch on the Indian version is known to be weak though. Our car had an Exedy set on it and it was decent. The Looks It's a carbon copy of the Japan swift. The only differences are: 1) The antenna on the Indian version is upfront while it's on the back on the JDM version 2) The Wheel wells have a bit more gap due to the slightly taller suspension 3) There's a VXI/ZXi badge & ABS sticker on the trunk A smart looking hatchback, and the Azure gray paint suited it well. Not a Pininfarina product but not an ugly little bread loaf either. Only gripe for me were the 14 inch rims and the wheel gap which needed a bit of reduction. Shifting the Swift Swifts are stiff cars, this is a well known fact. Ours even had a set of KYB Excel Gs upfront so there goes. Body roll is minimal and the car is stable but they are uncomfortable for very long trips. But who cares when you are tackling the corners with joy and making the passengers sick. Compared to a March or Vitz, it's slightly more spacious and it's tall so visibility is awesome. I'm 5'8" and my dad is 5'10" and both of us fit well in the driver's seat and had ample headroom. Space and dimensions are exactly the same. Interior is the same too except there is no fuel economy calculator & external temperature thermometer. The Indian version is prone to rattles when it ages, they did exist in our car but it wasn't annoying and occured only when traveling on rough roads. Don't be fooled by the 200km/h speedo. V-max is 165km/h, 0-100 takes nearly 12 seconds but that's not the point. This car is all about the 'driving a slow car fast is fun' philosophy. It's no slouch either, as it is lightweight, it can pull off overtakes pretty well and has decent torque at low rpms to compensate for the 86 pony powers. It's a fun little bugger, never failed to make me smile. Some reviews compare it to a go-kart, it kicked off an affordable tuner culture in India, Jeremy Clarkson said the Sport version is better than the Mini of that year and James May said the 1.5 is a fun thing. What it lacked in power, it made up for in handling. Bells and whistles The ZXi has dual airbags, ABS/EBD, Auto AC with LCD screen, multifunction steering, rear defroster, rear wiper, 14" alloys including the spare tyre(same ones as the JDM 'Style' edition) shod with 185/70/R14 tyres. All these options are absent on the VXi and the tyres are 165/70/R14, hence I do not recommend the VXi for safety reasons. Indian cars have a reputation for being death traps,but the ZXi is an exception. It may not be solid as the JDM swift but its worlds above any other Indian hatchback. Like stated earlier, it's stable and solid enough for its size and weight, which is 1010kg (dry). Do keep that in mind when considering a car for a budget of under 2 million. Frankly, it's the only Indian car I'd recommend. Care to Mod? Alot of possibilities but If I could, I'd put a nice cat back exhaust & Cold air intake, flash the ECU, put 195/60/R15 tyres with a good set of 15" alloys as the chassis' potential is restricted by the stock wheels. Then for cosmetics, a Swift Sport Bumper front and back with a twin exhaust muffler, a subtle spoiler and a set of projector headlamps is more than enough. Or just swap in an M16A from a Swift Sport/SX4 and call it a week. A check through the TeamBHP forums will show guides on DIY mods and cases of turbocharging, engine swap and tuning too. What to specifically look for when buying *The interiors are of good quality but find one which hasn't been baked under the sun. *It seems overheating is a common issue of all Swifts (Indian and Japanese), so inspect the engine bay for any oil leaks or stains which are signs of gasket/seal failures. Inspect the paint on the hood, if there are tiny dots of popped metal/paint, it could be a sign of an overheated car. *These cars can be cornered and used hard, so keep an ear out for rattles and clicks from the suspension during the test drive. This is a 12 year old car afterall. *Check the engine bay, sills, underbody, wheel wells, under the rear seat & spare Tyre compartment for rust. Due to age and quality of the metal used in the Indian version, it's not scary but it's inevitable. Ours was well maintained yet had a tiny spot of rust in the spare tyre compartment and engine bay, still miles better than what I have seen in recent model Altos. Economy Obviously the Indian is cheaper to buy than the JDM, parts are cheaper/similar pricing as the JDM and fuel economy is better. *JDM manual does an average of 10-14kmpl *JDM auto does around 8-11kmpl *Indian manual, does an average of 11-16kmpl As of 2020, Expect to pay 1.85 - 1.9 mil for a 2008 ZXi (150k less for the VXi). All 2008 cars will have the magical 80k - 100k mileage on the odometer so don't bother believing that. If budget permits, a Japanese manual is a better equipped choice (provided one comes up for sale, as they are rare here). Expect to pay around 1.9-2.0 mil for a 2006 version. It's a shame to see the swift ZXi included in the 'Indian cars are crappy tin cans' package, just because the build quality isn't upto jap standards. No point in arguing with the bayyas and sales people either. It's a decent all rounder, as reliable as a japan swift, was alot of fun and proved to be good value for money. Ours was with us for a short time but I'll really miss it
    1 point
  24. Ok...ok...No more jokes...?. Kid, what is your intention here? Do you want seek attention of others or you want to open a garage for 1990s vehicles...? Or something else...? Actually, I couldn't understand your intention.
    0 points
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