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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/03/2020 in all areas

  1. Another beautiful drive over the weekend.
    3 points
  2. All my time spent washing and waxing the car culminates in that moment when a passing by car winds the shutter down and the driver/passenger shout "car eka wikunanawada?" ?
    3 points
  3. Posting this as it will hopefully benefit future readers. Unless all the hybrid threads and value for money threads chase all the useful members here. So about 2years ago we purchased an L200, as a fleet vehicle, runs between Kandy and UVA and down south for plantation purposes, high mileages with passengers but no tub load.. The thing had done approx 100k km when we got it, the so called seller/ first owner / well known relative vowed the Timing belt was changed, being my paranoid self I took it to The agent once a year for inspection, drivers handled the routine services. So upon inspection, the belt was pristine, nevertheless not even dust had gone past the cover. So this thing has the 4D56U engine, common rail turbo, got lots of grunt and we use super diesel on it, and religiously make sure the driver does it too. So last week at about 150,000 odd km near bible, the thing came to a halt. To see the timing belt and the balancer belt both torn apart. Well it’s a 4d56 how bad can it be, said my dad, So put the thing on a carrier, had it bought to my mechanic, not the agent this time. To see this engine ain’t nothing like the old 4d56 its got 2 cams for the valves run by the belts, tappets deep in the head, no typical pushrods, the whole head is different, and this an interference engine, sadly, so the forged pistons decided to do a number on the valves, which in turn cracked the cams and split the head, stripped the teeth off the vacuum pump, and sheer all the reaming for oil channels, and crack a few studs between the engine and head. after around 0.8mil and a week of garage duty it’s back on the road now. the Sad part is the bore was 99.99% in good shape, turbo like new. but had to source a new head with internals, new pistons, new bearings, new crank coz of my ocd. The agents were extremely resourceful, despite the price had almost every part. Lesson learnt. Do follow If the car has done 100,000km or anything near the timing belt / chain interval, do the replacement, don’t believe any scum, no matter how known / related they are, just do it, or buy with a margin to do it, Because once the whole thing was apart we realized the schmuck had not changed the belt or the kit. Despite me repeatedly asking and asking for the receipts which he promised but never gave. Do not assess timing belts based on looks / wear Engine codes maybe the same, it doesn’t mean it’s the same engine, newer engines need more attention. All in all it was fun to rebuild an old school engine, but it came at a price. DO PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE OR BE GENUINE AND LET THE NEXT BUYER KNOW. if he haggles on that the price is upto u but just Don’t let your ignorance ruin a good car.
    2 points
  4. TIL you can delete the replies made to your status update ? spam begone!
    1 point
  5. I think, you should open a new thread for this with a better title. It will garner more attention. You can refer to this thread if you want for more information.
    1 point
  6. Threads merged. Thanks @matroska.
    1 point
  7. Sad to hear about the car. Glad to hear that you got the thing running again. An addition to your warning. Its not just mileage...it is also age. Most belts have a service life of 10 years (some less). So irrespective of the mileage of the car..if the time is up..change it.
    1 point
  8. Buy an alto, near the 1.6mil mark leave the rest on a fd. You won’t loose much as there was not much of a sum to begin with, You can’t win em all. Tolerate the clutch. Cars are no longer assets. Just appliances. The car market has horrendously toppled, both new and used. to add, 2015 2016 Vitzes have a horrid reputation as most mileage altered wrecks were imported for dirt cheap, during the 2017 boom. They are going at 3.2 at the moment, some cars were purchased at 3.8 odd, so if 500,000 depreciation is something you can bear then by all means. No offense To you , as a petrol head in a motoring forum, I find these posts rather ignorant. Maybe it’s just me. Get that alto.
    1 point
  9. Anything with a Toyota badge would serve you well as per your criteria. Especially a Vitz, Passo, Axio & Corolla 121. A Suzuki Swift Beetle, Perodua Viva Elite or Mitsubishi Lancer GLX are good options too as maintenance is affordable and they are simple yet engaging cars that are sought after by all sorts of people (common and enthusiasts alike). The key for maintaining a strong resale value is to avoid: Buying at a sale, paying more than the cars market value, Hybrids, manual transmissions, recent models, uncommon models (even if it's a Toyota), lack of spare parts and anything that needs a specialist garage to maintain. But to be honest with you, going by today's standards things like rising fuel prices, more access to leasing facilities, modern cars being too complicated, existing hybrid trend, government tax adjustments and some other factors, it's hard to predict how well cars will hold their value in the future.
    1 point
  10. Well..the CHR being a Toyota will have a better demand than the Kia just because it is a Toyota. Are you looking at an AWD or 2WD ? Either way..the vehicle is pretty nice to drive and feels rather plush for its category. Get the auction sheets verified, the JAAI sheets verified. But most of all take it to a place like car checks or the agents and get it inspected thoroughly. This is one thing I like about car checks...they are extremely asinine about things that it is unreasonable (eg...they will put a black mark on a 10 year old car for having a wiper blade worn out...or indicate a dent on the floor..) it is unreasonable but at least you get to know what is there and not there in the car so you can decided you want to take the risk or not. The agent would do the same but a little bit more relaxed..although I think the agent is more thorough on the mechanical aspect of things. Yes..the inspection costs..but spending 3K-8K to secure your 6.2mil investment I believe is wise.
    1 point
  11. These threads are getting more and more ridiculous....it won't be long before people start asking if they should be buying a banana yellow CHR or a maroon CHR.. There are quite a few threads discussing why an AWD vehicle would be beneficial (might not be specifically a CHR...but the pros and cons of using AWD and 2WD of any other cars still apply) SEARCH the thread All Hybrid CHRs are 2WD.... All petrol CHRs before March or so of 2018 are AWD...after March the petrol comes in 2WD and AWD. If you are frugal enough to want to save .5 kmpl a liter then go for the 2WD....but seriously...you will save more fuel by making sure your passengers and you stay fit and healthy and not over weight. I would say go for the AWD. The AWD system is nothing new and it is pretty much an updated system that has been around with everything from the Harrier to the Lexus RX and NX models....it is not that ground breakingly complicated. Why go for the AWD system ? It makes a huge difference when driving on slippery roads and windy roads...you would love it during the rainy season in SL. You won't be doing any serious off roading but you can take your CHR on pretty moderate tracks. It is just that 90% of the CHRs in SL are brought down with those ridiculous body kits simply for the show and neighbor's panty drop value (you will save more weight by ditching the body kit)
    1 point
  12. That damage Black Prius belongs to one of my friends. His son attended for swimming lessons and he slept & relaxed for a while in the car. Luckily, before few minutes this happen, he dropped from the car and walked to gate to pick his son and this happened. Defender was passing them and hit on their car and totally damaged 3 vehicles according to him..
    0 points
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