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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/27/2020 in all areas

  1. Yes machang, this should be kept in mind at all times. Shouldn't take a chance. I'm unable to watch the video at the office, Will take a look at this when I go home. This repair came at a very difficult time for me as I already had spent just over 50k for the tune up plus the petrol filter replacement and my insurance also had to be renewed in this month. I hope by sharing this, someone else will be able to avoid facing these kinds of preventable repairs in future.
    2 points
  2. So I did a google search on this CV axle dilemma, here's what I came across so far: Trinity was absolutely correct when he said "Apparently replacing just the CV joint is not on the agents books". Here's what the workshop manual says: "As for the EBJ assembly, only the EBJ boot can be replaceable, and other parts cannot be disassembled." As you can see the inner CV joint can be replaced rather easily and since it is "in the book", the agent might be doing it too. Replacing the outer CV joint, or the "EBJ" as the workshop manual calls it, is not recommended by the manufacturer. This isn't an issue exclusive to the Lancer, same outer CV joint design is employed in many cars. It seems that the outer CV joint replacement isn't a common job anyways, atleast in Sri Lanka. If the outer CV joint goes bad the entire CV axle is almost always replaced with a reconditioned or "Thaiwan" one. Unfortunately for us EX owners however, either of those are not very feasible, as @trinity has experienced. The outer joint for the EX is easily found on eBay (link above) but you'll have to find a technician who is willing to do the job. However, it seems that you don't have to cut the joint off the axle if you have the correct tools or the experience: CVJ/EBJ removal explanation: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2181123 Hydraulic press method: Cutting method: CV joint puller tool: So what I learned from @trinity's experience is that we should check the CV boots more often... Thanks again for sharing, mate! Starting today, I'll be taking a good hard look at the CV boots atleast once a week ? probably each time I wash the car.
    2 points
  3. Continued from last post. So I gladly took that offer. They wanted the chassis number of the car (which I had with me) to be sent with the measurements of the CV joint to the supplier. Finally they found the part and informed that price of a one is Rs.15k and its not HDK as well. Didn't have any other option but to buy them, so ordered two. After few hours I had the parts. It's Chinese I guess, and imported from Dubai. It's a complete kit, The CV joint, Boot, Grease and boot tightening metallic straps. Quality wise it didn't seem bad and the boot was also much better. Its a rubber boot though. The genuine one is not rubber. Remember you Lancer EX owners, if this happened to you, the number of grooves in the CV joint are as follows. Outer - 28 Inner - 30 The important thing is that it is not possible to count the inner number of grooves of the existing CV joint without cutting it open. Once that is done, there is no turning back obviously. So, to remove the CV joint, first part that is holding the ball bearings have to be cut open and the bearings should be removed one by one. Once that is done, the outer cup can be removed. Thereafter you have to carefully cut the part that is fixed to the axel without harming the axel. This is a very delicate job. One mistake, you have to replace the entire axel. This took some time to do. Finally all came out and the new part went in without any trouble. Installed the left CV first and started the right one, surprise, surprise... that boot is not broken. It was some oil and dust which had given the looks of a broken boot. So we greased it and fixed it back. All in all this should have been a few hours job but extended up to 6 in the evening due to the issues stated above. The labour cost was Rs.5k. Now everything is ok. I'm in two minds whether to return the spare CV joint or keep it with me for future use if needed. Have to get the alignment done now. Thats it. So gents, I hope you'll learn from my mistakes if the need comes. Do share your thoughts. Cheers!
    2 points
  4. @Ferdinando1992 the Primera has some very respectable sporting pedigree with heaps of wins in the British Touring Car Championship in the late 90's. If it's looks you're after the Camino's came with a decent body kit and spoiler if that helps
    2 points
  5. Spotted this in a Vehicle Yard. Do you think it is possible to find parts to restore.
    1 point
  6. @Hyaenidae= I always think to myself ohh “Hyundai” has responded.??
    1 point
  7. Yes I know its not recommended because it can trap moisture underneath the gators. But I did a bit of research and found quite a few stories of owners who used them for machine polished wheels with no adverse effects-so long as the wheel was new and didnt have any defects. So decided to go ahead. It's been 18 months of use with them and not had any issues. I have also brushed a curb with them and gators took the impact. Removed the damaged one and did an inspection. Didn't notice any abnormalities. Will be sticking with them for the time being.
    1 point
  8. what a beauty, may be possible to restore if you have contacts in the UK who can help you find parts. But people will laugh at you spending money on this, because "no 2nd hand market"
    1 point
  9. This model i believe have a reflector type of light housing. So HID or LED lights will not give a proper result and it may scatter light irregularly and blind the oncoming traffic. Why dont you invest on a proper pair of halogen headlight bulbs, Philips Racing Vision, Osrum Night Breaker etc...
    1 point
  10. Yeh, the prices of these parts are just ridiculous. After seeing the above ebay link posted by @Hyaenidae (actually how the should this name be pronounced?? ) I decided to return the part. Besides I very well will pay more attention to the CV boots in future. So the chances of damaging the other CV could be considered somewhat low.
    1 point
  11. I searched, but didnt come across this. This would have been better. Another reason I opted to source the part locally is that i'm going on a 3 day trip to Haputale this weekend. So I needed this fixed before I drive the car on a hilly road with lots of sharp turns.
    1 point
  12. You won't be able to follow steps in my DIY post because your alloys are diamond cut. The easiest fix would be to polish out the damage using a series of grinding bits and sandpaper (starting with coarse ones and moving on to smoother grit). Then use metal polish to get the shine back. From the photos, it looks like the diamond cut areas are clear coated as well. So you'll have to clear coat the area (or the whole wheel). Finally get the wheel balanced again.
    1 point
  13. 'To each their own' they say..I get where he is coming from but I'm guessing now in the garage it's just a 'booruwa'
    1 point
  14. 4.CV Joint Replacement If you had read this thread from the beginning, you'd know that the fist repair I did to the car was the CV boot replacement. If not,It is this discussed in this post. Unfortunately the inevitable happened around the third week of December 2019. The replaced boot had torn and somehow gone unnoticed during the service. I noticed the famous taka taka sound one fine day morning during my drive to the office and immediately knew its the left side CV. Sadly it was a very busy time for me hence couldn't find time to have the issue checked and try to sort it out if possible. I ran the car like that for couple of weeks and on January this year took it to Unit#d Mot#rs to have the issued checked out. By that time the noise was so bad I was avoiding the sharp turns as much as possible. After checking, we found that the left side CV boot is torn much it was near to split in to two pieces. So I asked whether they have the part to replace and how much would that cost. While my car was being tested I saw another Lancer EX having its both CV axels removed so I figured this is reasonably costing job. But ladies and gents, I was wrong, I was so f**king wrong. Here is a photo of a right side CV axel which I took at the agent which was ready to be fixed to the above mentioned car. Apparently replacing just the CV joint is not on the agents books. You have to replace the entire CV axel. Now, one axel cost over Rs.170,000/- at the agent. After hearing the price, i could see starts circling over my head. WTF am I supposed to do, I thought to my self. So the obvious next thing was to find out whether there are recon axels to source from the usual Mitsu recon part importers. Unfortunately almost all the guys/places I knew didn't have the part. Finally started looking in to inter webs and found a shop who had just imported two parted out Lancer EXs (Lancer - ES trim) from Australia which claimed that they have the part. The only doubt he had was that the engines of donor cars didn't mach with mine. It was 4B11 and mine is 4A91. I think 4A92 is not offered in Australia and Japan. Explains the difficulty in sourcing recon parts. The name of the shop is 'Alliance Auto Parts'. I suggest you check with the for any body parts and mechanical parts of any type of car as they have a huge stock. Also the owner is a very helpful guy name Nadun. Back to the story, the doubt was correct. The outer grooves of the recon part didn't mach. That was the only axel I found and it too didn't mach. I had a trip to Kandy upcoming by this time and I didn't want to runt the car with an exposed CV joint further more. So decided to have it cleaned up and fix a aftermarket boot as a temporary measure until I locate an axel. Here is a photo of the cleaned CV. This temporary fix was done at my trusted mechanics place. After fixing the new boot I went the Kandy tour and ran it about 800 kms. The taka taka noise persisted throughout. Now you must be wondering why I didn't try to locate only the CV joint from local part importers as replacing CV joint is a common job. Yes I too wanted to look for it but initially I was told all sort of horror stories about replacing just the CV joint which made me to look for the entire axel. I wouldn't wanted to do something which is not recommended by the manufacturer. But as a last resort I had to opt to this. My mechanic was so reluctant to replace just the CV joint I had to fid another one who knew his way around Lancers who was willing to do this job. Fortunately, through a contact in Toyota Lanka I was introduced a Mitsu guy who surprisingly live near my town and was available to do the job. By this time the car was due its regular oil change and I went to Unit#d Mot#rs Hyde Park to get it done. There they showed me that right side CV boot is also leaking and they suspected right side CV is also busted. f**k me side ways right?? I decided to bite the bullet and have both CVs replaced at any cost by this time. So,I contacted 'Wimal Motors' which is located in Moratuwa (These guys are very helpful and their prices are very reasonable . Their return policy is also flexible) to see whether they have the CV joints to be bought. To my surprise they had the parts. One quoted Rs.8k and sold for 7K. Bought 2 for 14K. The brand is HDK and are made in Japan. The shop instructed me to count the inner and outer grooves of the existing CV and match with the numbers of the new one before opening up the package. Above is the package, you can see the numbers 25 & 23. That is the count of outer and inner grooves. So we removed the CV axel last Saturday and counted the grooves. Oh everything was ok, right.. No you guys, It won't work that way. At least for me, these car things will never work out at one go. My CV axel had 28 outer grooves. I should have kept this counted at the time I removed the axel initially but I didn't. So there's a lesson in that for all of us. Called Wimal Motors and took the parts back with the removed axel. Now you would think that they had the part I wanted with them. After searching their books and shop for agonising 15 minutes I was informed that they didn't have the part. But offered to contact their suppliers and have them bought down within few hours if available.. To be continued..
    1 point
  15. Of course I dont wanna do anything illegal
    1 point
  16. GT/Glanza V is way above budget obviously but a starlet is fun to drive, no denying that as per my own experience. Better than a March I'd say. EP71 Starlet turbos are way under budget provided OP can find one..and that too, in good nick. OP, how's progress so far? Found a car you like?
    1 point
  17. CAMINO is a JDM variant/badge of the Primera... What is your definition of sporty ? By the cars you ahve been looky at what you are pretty much suggesting is a car that actually handles well and has good feed back and gets the driver a bit involved; not something that has tons of power. The Primera is a lot more sporty in that regards than the Civics you are looking at (not to mention has more power). Secondly, the Familia is actually a pretty nifty and fun car to drive....it actually does have the zoom zoom feeling. As for the Starlet..that too is sporty if you find yourself a Glanza or GT...in fact it will be a lot more sporty than a stock Civic.
    1 point
  18. I think he'd be stretching his budget for a Carina wouldn't he? I've seen quite a few horribly riced ones and a few decent ones but as you said it's back to the EG8 problem. OP, are you following any of the local classic/old car groups there are some good specimens going up for sale time to time.
    1 point
  19. Yes..that is the one...actually it is a silver...just that most people think it is a grey. It is a Supra color 1B9 silver graphite flake or something. The pre-facelift Carina GT says CARINA on the grill. They put the GT badge on the grill only in the facelift Yes...the 90 series and sometimes the 100 series go for those prices. No idea what happened to it. Probably did get bought up by someone...My Trueno is doing well...it actually runs without any issues so that is a good thing I suppose... There are several original P40 series GTs in SL...and one or two conversions. Unfortunately the conversion is not that popular because finding donor cars are not easy...especially at a reasonable price. The ones that can be used as a donor are too expensive and the ones that are cheap are just not worth the trouble.
    1 point
  20. The one with the small ugly black alloys & the front shell says 'carina' instead of 'GT'. Yup, its some kind of grey, I thought it's silver. Weird color. I guess you are right, hard to find a good specimen for that budget ? Are you referring to the slightly boxy looking JZX90 chasers? Tbh I have never seen a proper chaser in the classifieds, only diesels show up. Also Irage, whatever happened to that red AE86 (AE85? I dont remember) for sale a few months back for a million? Also, how are things with your car now? Also, like the tourer V, are turbocharged EL41s a thing? Sorry for lots of questions lol
    1 point
  21. About the Ceres and the Marino...if you want some spirited driving then I would go for a unit with the 4A-FE (i.e. 1600cc standard engine). If I want more spirited driving then I would go for a 4A-GE variant. There are quite a few 4A-FE variants around and interestingly they are advertised as 1500cc cars quite often (Sri Lankan mentality of anything above 1500cc drinking fuel). The 4A-GE variants are a bit harder to find. The 1500cc variant just feels like any other Corolla/Sprinter of the era in a sporty body. The problem with the Ceres/Marino is that most of them (irrespective of the variant) have been modded up by boy ricers. Unfortunately most of these boy ricers got them for the Corolla cheapness of running it and then doing really unsightly cheap mods....so....you are going to be stuck with the Civic issue. If you are referring ot the one I think you are (the dark grey one)...then the mods and fix-up was done by the previous owner. I had to go through 100s of Toyota catalogs of the period with the guy to pick the color code When the previous guy got the Carina GT it had a worn out 4A-GE engine..corrosion...etc....so he did a complete engine rebuild and a full resto job on the body. Then life took over for a while and he had to part ways with it and later stumbled on to an Altezza...a Trueno..and a WRX Tobe honest though..I have not seen any decent speciments of the above cars within 14 to 17 lks though I don't know what kind of a guy you are...but how do you feel about something like a Mark II/Cresta/Chaser ? A stock avante/grande can be found for your budget (again..average condition). The 2000cc engine is actualy pretty decent...only thing is the ride is a bit soft and boat like but that gets sorted out with a simple suspension upgrade (whcih most in SL have done) Apart from that..there was a Vitz RS advertised a few weeks ago...so thta is an option...you could also look in to a stock Imprezza (non converted one).
    1 point
  22. You didn't mention the Carina GTs. Most of them are now going for a low price, and although they're owned by mostly mature enthusiasts, it's not to say it hasn't been used 'enthusiatically' but that's the whole point right? There's an AT210 (5-speed) for sale with a newly rebuilt 4A-GE blacktop & a handful of mechanical & electronical parts fixed/replaced according to the owner and has an asking price of 1.85 mil. Compared to the Carina GT, the P11 Caminos are kind of rare & thirstier don't you think? The pre-facelift Windy is a design I really love. It's just a starlet underneath that went under the loyalism radar and is truly worth what it is. A ducktail spoiler & some sweet bronze 6-spokes (TE37 replica) rims on it and you got your self a beautiful little fastback-like-hatchback.?
    1 point
  23. This is a very nice potential budget where you're looking at a multitude of 90's cars. Let's talk about your choices - very hard to find EG8s in good condition now cos they've changed hands between wannabe racers and now completely ruined same applies for the Lancers and the EK3's to a lesser extent so you still can find a rare unit in decent condition. If the modding potential is not a big condition you can also consider slightly more 'boring' variants like Mazda 323/Familia - you can get a good specimen for the price range. If hatches are your thing you can consider a Starlet - which I admit is overpriced due to the whole Sri Lankan Toyota Loyalism but a good EP82 is well within budget there's a massive community in SL and parts are aplenty so maintaining one will be a breeze. Corolla2's (windy) Ceres etc all come into the equation. This is something i wanted to suggest as well - The P11 is a true 90's car with the good old Nissan genes and they're not on the boy-racer radar so you can find a really good car... Sticking with Nissans there are Pulsars, Preseas and (lucino - maybe not) If i was on the market for a car at this budget I'd probably go for a Primera honestly. frankly there are too many choices here - so try to go for what you really like (EK3/Lancer CK) keep the Primera's etc as backup options don't stick to one car go and see a few test drive etc...I'd skip the EG8 tho personally 90's cars make my mouth water so I'm looking forward to seeing a thread on what you brought. Good Luck.
    1 point
  24. I understand your pain bro, this is a diamond cut wheel, thereby there is no option of filling and paint. Your best option would be to get the area buffed and levelled
    0 points
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