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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/22/2019 in all areas

  1. I here you, my Corolla Sport has only 135mm, you need to plan the route. negotiating the entry exit out of the road is the worse as there is either a hump, gradient too much etc.. This is the reason most of the buyers look for SUVs, just for the ground clearance nothing else.
    3 points
  2. During the last 6-7 years, the demand(mostly imports) for the Compact Crossover SUVs have been significantly increased in SL car market. This spark was first ignited by the introduction of Honda Vezel making those crossovers popular among Sri Lankans. Most car buyers started to think that having a compact SUV is pretty beneficial when poor roads scraped the underneath of their Premios, Allions and Axios. Another factor is the low engine capacity of these crossover SUVs, which is a nice invitation to the buyers in a country where almost 95% of the petrol vehicles imported have an engine capacity below 1500cc. After sometime the turbocharging craze began with the introduction of Audi Q2, Honda Civic 10th gen and Toyota CHR. With the help of turbocharging, now the power of a 2000-2400cc engine can be extracted from a 1500cc engine. Since then SUVs like CRV started doing the trick. Now most people in SL have lost their faith on the Honda’s i-DCD hybrid system in Vezel, Fit and Grace. So the Mitsubishi Eclipse Cross was born… Overview We all know that as a vehicle manufacturer, Mitsubishi haven’t been much successful during the previous two decades. Even the Lancer was killed from manufacturing. But when it comes to the Eclipse Cross, seems that Mitsubishi is giving a fierce competition towards other similar SUVs in SL market such as the CRV and Vezel(a subcompact crossover SUV). One major thing that the Eclipse Cross stands above the others are the amount of options available throughout the range. On the CRV we have to step up to the top of the range model to get all the options. But with the Eclipse Cross G and G Plus (which are mostly imported to SL) have almost similar amount of options except for the infotainment system with the touch pad in the G Plus variant. What I drove is a 1.5 Turbo/CVT G variant with full time 4WD. When we talk about the exterior design, without a doubt everyone loves the front end design. Its muscular and sharp, but without being overly flashy like the body kit loaded CHRs. When we walk towards the back, we totally forget what the front end looked like. Totally different compared to the front design and for me it looks kind of awful. It looks similar to something like a Honda Insight, but always reminds me of the Pontiac Aztek (what Walter White drives in Breaking Bad) which is regarded as one of the ugliest cars of all time. But here its better than the Pontiac Aztec, nevertheless most people wouldn’t be happy with the back end looks unlike the front end. But for me, the overall design of the CRV is a bit better and looks bigger than the Eclipse Cross. So let’s move to the interior. Interior Here in the photo, it's the G Plus version, which comes with the factory fitted infotainment system Mitsubishis are famous for having cheap and plasticky looking interiors from the past. But here they have a much better interior design. It looks better and richer than what we have seen in the Outlander, which is a bit boring and less attractive with a plain design. The silver inserting with the combination of the piano black plastic panels certainly gives a rich and upmarket feel and for me, it’s the best interior I’ve ever seen from a Mitsu. But remember that those piano black panels are easy to get scratched and attract fingerprints. Dash design of the Eclipse Cross is much sportier than what you get in the CRV, even though CRV with those teak panels looks more premium(but dull) despite the awful placement of the gear shifter. If you plan to bring down one, better to go with a fully loaded one which has done few kilometers in Japan, because adding options such as sunroof and leather seats additionally cost around 400,000 LKR. The driving position is spot on with all the controls are in easy to reach positions. The position feels sporty with the steering wheel setup and the height really gives the confidence and “king of the road” feeling. This design gives you the feeling that everything is wrapped around you. All doors have soft padded armrests and plenty of spaces to store bottles and your stuff. There is a head up display which shows the speed and the digits look a bit small for me. Seats are comfortable with good side support, but they are on a little firm side. Plenty of headroom and legroom are there for all the passengers I never found it lacking space, specially in legroom department. The standard 6 speaker audio system is great when you compare with the systems you get from Toyotas. Has thumping bass (which most owners in SL are looking for) but the vocals are a bit laid off and lacks the top sparkle in the trebles. Overall most people would be in love with the system. You can squeeze out the maximum by installing something like a Pioneer or a Kenwood aftermarket player if you have the G or a lower grade. I haven’t come across the in-built unit with the touch pad in the G Plus unit, but it might be better as Mitsus always had good audio systems (mostly in the bass department) in their vehicles from a long time. I still remember cranking up the volume as a kid in a 16 Sri Mirage till the bass hits the chest. There is a one with a Rockford Fosgate audio system but I haven’t come across that system in the JDM Mitsu site. Thus they give you the option to add premium speakers for front and rear, which might be better. There are few disappointments in the interior. One is the Speedometer and the Tachometer. They have been directly taken out from something that was made in 2007-2008. Looks dated and boring as it doesn’t match with whole interior design. For me the boring to drive Toyotas have better looking meter panels even in the 2007 era. Anyway it’s only a little thing. Another problem that I had to face while driving is the Gear position of the Auto gear shift level. The indicators in the shifter panel seems misaligned with the lever and there was few times I have mistakenly put into the N instead of D after starting the car. Maybe this is because I’ve been used to the gate-type shifters. Other than that I personally don’t like the design on the seats. Looks a bit flashy, something like an Alto. So let’s move onto the part which makes this car really stands out among others.. Driving Simple. Best of both worlds. Most compact crossover SUVs have firm suspension (Vezel owners know what I’m talking about), even though they are less enthusiastic on corners. But here it’s a totally different story. I travelled on some bad roads, climbs and on a stretch. Suspension soaks up most of the potholes and imperfections on bad road while keeping the car without swaying. Comfort wise, it’s on par with cars like Axios and better than Aquas, Fits and Graces. But when you push it to a corner it stays flat without much body roll. On cornering you feel that you have plenty of grip even though it sits high. Another thing is that the car feels rigid on corners. Trust me, you can do some really enjoyable driving from this babe! I mean it has the perfect balance between comfort and handling which is a really tricky job to achieve from an economical car like this, while being a crossover SUV. I drove the CRV and for me it feels a bit choppy on bad roads. Steering is a bit of a let down when you consider with the other characteristics, because of being light and numb. But still, it is sharp. Sometimes I felt that it is not nimble as the Vezel (maybe due to the size). Then the engine. When I drove the CRV for a short distance, I noticed that the power is a bit hesitant on the lower end. But when you put your foot down the engine comes to life. I noticed the laziness in the throttle similar to what you get in a Grace or a Vezel when travelling at low speeds. I also mentioned earlier in this forum about how all the Honda i-DCD hybrid systems feel a bit hesitant to start climbing hills, and surprisingly, even being a non hybrid and a CVT, the CRV also waited a second or two to start climbing the same hill. In the Eclipse Cross, power delivery is flawless and feels punchy throughout SL street legal speed limits. I did floor the throttle for a brief time period and ended up speeding up to 120kmph without breaking a sweat. Power is always on demand and surprisingly I did not experience any issue in the acceleration department like the CRV. So thumbs up for the engine performance. But the car that I drive had the full time all-wheel drive system so there might be some improvement in grip and acceleration levels over the 2WD version. Brakes are okay, without any significant feature to highlight. The vehicle is surprisingly quiet on roads with minimal road noise levels, so you hardly feel the actual speed. When we travel around 60kmph gives the feeling of driving at 40kmph, because of this isolation. There is a slight issue and that’s the engine noise. From the outside, the engine is significantly louder than most of the 1500cc cars like Premios and Axios. The radiator fan kicks in frequently worsening the situation. The engine can also be heard as a slight whirling when traveling with a light foot, which seems as a slight noise because only a little amount of road noise is entered into the cabin. So the engine noise is highlighted. So let’s move onto economy. Economy The fuel figures are a bit like a mixed bag. When the car was brought home from Hambantota, on 92 octane, showed a figure of 12.3 kmpl which is a bit on the lower side. After few days, averaged shrunk to 6-7 kmpl territory on 92. It had 2500km on the clock when it reached home and after the 92 ran out, 95 was pumped. Still the car has rarely left the town, but gives a figure around 8.5 kmpl, which is good for a AWD vehicle. Final Words IMO, I think Mitsu have really done something this time after being out of the track for couple of years. For me, this is the best to drive among CRV and Vezel, with a nice balance between comfort and handling. I have not yet driven the Peugeot 3008, which is considered to have a better interior and better driving experience, but most people in SL would look for a Jap made vehicle. The CRV has a much more bigger and muscular looking exterior plus 7 seats, but the Eclipse Cross is better to drive and more comfier. CRV has a kind of premium looking interior with teak panels, while the Mitsu has a modern looking sporty interior. For owners who are looking for a premium feel, I think they are better off with a CRV while the ones who are looking for a sporty yet comfortable ride might be satisfied with the Eclipse Cross. Also the options like the touch pad navigation system, Head-up displays, panoramic sun roof plus the sporty front end design would like to grab attention of most buyers. Still none of us could comment on reliability department as the vehicle is very new to SL. But I will always recommend this over something like a Premio, Vezel or a CHR for bringing down for the permit, because you get car-like comfort and “go anywhere” ability with the Eclipse Cross. Only downside is the fuel economy, but I think it’s a bit early to comment on the exact figures. Therefore it’s always safer to avoid the 4WD versions. But I personally believe that a person who can afford to bring down such vehicle can handle a bit more cost for the fuel. Thank you for reading!
    1 point
  3. I think there is a small risk of keeping a trickle charger connected. In rainy days, lightening surges, which are coming through 230V AC supply, may enter in to the car's electrical system through the trickle charger. This may damage the sensitive electronic circuits. Therefore, I don't recommend keeping the charger connected for a long time, unattended. It will be a good idea to connect the charger with 230V AC supply through an isolation transformer and a good Surge Protecting Device (SPD).
    1 point
  4. Newer, actually car was spot less apart from few scratches in the bumper. Was rear ended twice by a motor bike and a Nissan Sunny both instances bumper bounced back with a gentle push. Only time I had a issues were Swift when the oil filter got bottomed up, got loose and I lost all oil for my luck with loss of oil pressure car went in to limp mode and i had to park on the roadside replace the filter and oil. No permanent damage, bloody thing had the filter right in front carved in to the sump. Long time back managed to go over a rock that was in middle of the road in my moms car (Nissan Sunny). Damaged the sump and oil was leaking all over the place. Managed to do the repair at the friendly welder near my place FOC.
    1 point
  5. Yes, all service stations do wash engine. But I'm not sure whether they follow correct method and / or use proper material. I have seen some service stations spray kerosene to wash the engine. A*t* M*r*j uses a chemical called H2L (Not H2O) which doesn't conduct electricity according to them. Are H2L or kerosene suitable for this? Is it ok to use WD40 to clean the engine as shown in the above video? I prefer to do this type of things myself because, most of the workers who wash cars in service stations in Sri Lanka, are uneducated laborers. I have seen some times, when the brake oil level is in the "Max" level, they top up, up to the lid. Same thing happen for battery electrolyte level. When they do underwash, some times they use pointed nozzle instead of 40 degrees nozzle and keep the pressure gun very close to the under carriage. Yes it will remove mud completely. But it will remove the protective coating of under carriage as well. When tightening wheel nuts, almost all times, they use very high torque (using a long galvanized bar) than than required. That is how they break wheel bolt. We never can find professional car washers, plumbers, masons, electricians, carpenters etc. in Sri Lanka. So, I prefer to do every possible things myself.
    1 point
  6. In Japanese cars things like brake fluid are not indicated in the users service manual as they are mandatory replace items at the shaken inspection.
    1 point
  7. I didn't get the joke ? Are you insinuating that the car in question is popular among the gay community (like May said about the Jeep wrangler?)
    1 point
  8. The export model 141 Corolla was never sold in Japan...so I don't know how you got a Japanese used part for it. Perhaps the same part is used in some other vehicles ?
    1 point
  9. Try this place https://g.co/kgs/sK8yCf AFAIK the 141 export edition wasn't sold in Japan so IDK how there is a Japanese used bumper - maybe it shares the same bumper with some other JDM vehicle?
    1 point
  10. But that girl on the driver seat represents the typical millenial who doesn't love driving.
    1 point
  11. ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
    1 point
  12. 1. I was stupid enough to trust my GFs space time awareness and drove the car over a small concrete puddle. Engine guard got damaged. 2. Dont even think of driving a CivicX on Kandalama lake bunt 3. Had to drive over a small mud puddle at my fathers ancestral house. Now the lessons are learnt. I got adapted afterwards and bumps are automatically detected miles ahead.
    1 point
  13. Dude don’t go counting on the fact the car will hold its value or appreciate in the ages to come, it’s not the 80s and 90s, the competition is more, govt. taxation’s will change, generations change, forex will change. buy a vehicle by coming to terms on the fact that it will depreciate or you ll go mad if something happens and 2nd hand markets drop. Vehicles rarely will appreciate in the given market, even the raize, it’s a brand new model, SriLankans will flood this island with them, abuse them, bring in wrecks for cheap, they ll produce the model for at least 3 more years then maybe a facelift and another 2 years, so we ll have them here like three wheelers, it won’t hold value, nor will it appreciate, being 1000cc we won’t see them doing 500,000km like an old pajero, so understand the market a bit more, this applies to any car in the given trend.
    1 point
  14. I am not sure about the prices or places in Kadawatha. There are many garages that can do this, but a compression test should be done with the correctly calibrate equipment and by an engine specialist. I would suggest Edirisinghe Brothers (just past Thotalanga Bridge).
    1 point
  15. No budget this year according to cabinet decisions.
    1 point
  16. Not really. What Mitsubishi offers is a 5 year standard warranty with some components extended to 7 or 10. Kia standard warranty is 7 years. For example, the rack ends or heater or AC wont be covered for 7 years for Mitsus.
    1 point
  17. How about a turbocharged full option kei Van such as the Suzuki Every Join, Daihatsu Atrai, Nissan Clipper Join etc. More space, More versatile and easy to maintain.
    1 point
  18. It's been little more than 4 years with my Hiace and it has done around 76,000kms so I thought its time I give you guys an update on it. Let me start the blog with the basics, Mine is a Toyota Hiace KDH206, this variant of Hiace is fitted with a 1KD-FTV turbo engine with an all wheel drive system. The AWD system in the KDH series is pretty much full time, it runs on all four wheels normally and if any of the wheels experience a slippage, the vehicle stops sending power to that specific wheel. There is a noticeable difference between the AWD variant(KDH206) and RWD variant(KDH201). The KDH206 is around 100kg heavier and you could feel that through the steering when you drive one. In addition, the KDH206 feels far more planted at higher speeds and around corners than the RWD variant. However the downside is that the full time AWD system drinks bit more fuel than RWD version. Cost of Maintenance In short the Hiace is not cheap run, I get fuel economy of around 6km/l in kandy and around 9-10km/l outstation, the RWD KDH201 would return around another extra 2km more per litre. Hiace is originally fitted with 195/80R15 8ply tyres and they cost around 22-23.5K per tyre from brands like Continental or Pirelli, while Maxxis tyre could be found for around 16k. The Hiace requires 0W-30 oil and a regular service which needs to be carried out every 5000km costs around 10K using Toyota oil, I was using Toyota oil filter as well, but now I have switched to VIC. ATF oil must be changed around every 40k kms, I change air filter and cabin filter every year. It requires super diesel and this is an absolute must, if you regularly pump auto diesel you will pay more in repairs than what you saved by pumping auto diesel. The most likely issues you would get from pumping auto diesel are DPF, which costs around 70-80k to replace and injectors, which would set you back around 500k for all four. So far I had to change only a bush which costed around 50rs, apart from that I have not had any repairs. Performance The Hiace pulls pretty well for a vehicle which weighs 2 tonnes, the 1KD-FTV with a variable nozzle turbo produces 100kw at 3400RPM and 300nm of torque at 1200-3200rpm and it is connected to a 4 speed conventional automatic gearbox. Overtaking other vehicles with Hiace is pretty easy, you just have to put your foot down, the turbo will come to life and you would be gone. It is always on the right gear, there's no unnecessary downshifts or up shifts, the gearing ratios are perfectly synced with the power band of the engine although it is only a 4 speed gearbox in a world of 6 and 7 speed gearboxes. The Hiace properly comes to life on hill climbs with the help of low end power and variable nozzle turbo. Handling is fairly good for a van, it handles better than large SUVs. The KDH series has much less body roll compared to the previous LH series, but it isn't great as handling of a car. I notice the difference in handling when I drive the Hiace after driving our Bluebird which has front and rear independent suspension. Comfort It doesn't handle large potholes and bumps as good as a car, but it does manage to soften small potholes pretty well. The diesel engine noise is evident compared to a hybrid or petrol vehicle but the noise reduces when the vehicle gets to the third gear or at around 70+ km/h speed. The A/C is epic on the Hiace, it is one of the best cooling A/C I have come across, I rarely have to set the A/C temperature below 26 degree Celsius on auto mode and that is without the dual A/C. There is plenty of space inside, 7 or 8 people could travel on long journeys with their legs stretched out and not crammed. The second row seat is the best place to be in, you get the dual A/C right in front of you, it is acoustic sweet spot and minimal sunlight enters the cabin. Practicality It is quite a practical vehicle if you are using it occasionally or for long journeys as it can seat 8 comfortably yet carry plenty of luggage(you could fit around 4-5 large travelling bag placed horizontally), it has got atleast double the amount of luggage space compared to a Noah/Esquire. However it is bit of waste of money if you are using it on daily basis as fuel bills are gone be crazy and parking these are not that easy within city limits. In addition, maneuvering these around narrow roads requires some skills especially roads with tight bends. Second hand value and parts Selling a KDH isn't difficult at all, if you maintain them right there will always be people willing it to buy it from you. There are plenty of body parts available but 1KD engine parts are bit difficult to find and even if you do find, it will be expensive Some used parts prices are: Pair of tail lights: 15k for older design and 30k for new design Pair of headlight: more than 100k without the HID unit Rear door: around 40k Fog lights: around 20k What I have done with my Hiace The Modellista body kit came with the van from Japan itself and I added the Modellista grill later on Original Toyota spoiler which came painted pearl white I tinted the fog lamps yellow with Nightbreaker bulbs in them I have also replaced the rear seats which are rotatable and come with a table as well I have done some electronic mods as well, Installed a transcend DrivePro 200 Carrozzeria tweeters with crossover and JBL component speakers with crossover(thanks to @TheFlyingFox) https://streamable.com/ujkce I was planning on installing FIAMM horns, but the JDM side of my brain took over and I went with Mitsuba Alpha https://streamable.com/nbipn Note: click on the links to access the videos My dad had the body kit removed for a short period of time and during that time I drove it through some muddy terrain. It did well.
    1 point
  19. Hi Guys, I wanted to post this for quite some time now but didn’t actually have a chance. Bought this car in 1997 and my dad and I worked on restoring it since 2003. The best car I’ve owned to this day. I had to give her away a few months ago with great regret (a story for some other time). THE CAR: 1979 Mitsubishi Lancer A72 V (station wagon) ENGINE: 4G33 (Saturn 1400cc carburetor) TRANSMISSION: 4 speed manual BRAKES: Front and Rear drum and liner RESTORATION PHASE 1 | 2003 – 2004 | BODYWORK+ - Restored all body panels and chassis to its original condition - Replaced all door moldings, windshield beadings - Replaced tail lights - Changed color from silver to metallic black - Replaced stock 12' rims with 13' Alloys - Installed brake booster (servo) Sorry for the low photo quality, I didn’t have a good digital camera back then. AFTER More to come... stay tuned...
    1 point
  20. Okey I made a spelling mistake with Toyota and I guess all of you had never had a mistake in your life and you are prefect. Well guess wot we call em porschas cz it has a nice rhyme. all you jap car fans wouldn't know eh? Thanks guys you are prefect for this site. I came here to learn something, but you guys are too hot headed and think some +1 and 1000 posts make you know every single shit about cars. Im outta here. say wot ever you want now. xD
    1 point
  21. Engine cover (BEFORE) Engine Cover (AFTER) - Red heat resistant paint Engine re-assembled. Those chrome water lines look good! The engine block was painted black.
    1 point
  22. New water pump New Gasket overhaul kit New oil pump Big-End (con-rod) bearings New engine valves and valve body (ports polished)
    1 point
  23. Water lines BEFORE (yellow) and AFTER (chrome) Cleaned pistons Polished engine block Welch plugs before and after Main bearings Piston rings Timing belt and tensioner
    1 point
  24. RESTORATION PHASE 2 | ENGINE OVERHAUL | 2010 Engine Disassembly More to come...
    1 point
  25. I used to have a 19- Kia Sportage jeep, i tink it was a super jeep. Fuel economy cant grumble it used to do 8Km per ltr. i used a Suzuki Vitara also that also was 19-, but my Kia was always more comfortable. I tink Hundai's are better Korean vehicle.
    1 point
  26. I use a 2002 1300cc Accent. I've no probs with it. Its good on fuel, and it doesn't 'break up'as stated above.I've driven aprox 70,000 km up todate -- hardly any repairs. Generally I make it a point to go from A to B as fast & safely as possible, and I get 14kmpl. therefore I have no complaints at all. I use a Mitsubishi as well, the only positive as i can see by driving it, is the so called 'status' & the looks compared to an Accent, apart from that, everything else is better in the Accent. Also I very humbly state here that the Accent has the capability of competing with any car - --[obviously on our Sri Lankan roads], i generally can keep ahead of most vehicles on the road. Infact yesterday I started late to go for the Bradby in Kandy - and i managed to pass all the vehicles in front of me -- [for the guys who went for the Bradby yesterday- I'm sure you would have noticed a silver HQ accent pass you - after all you would have noticed because its a 'bashed' car in all kinds of forums ]. [pls note-- i'm not trying to boast about my driving skills, but about the capabilities of this 'bashed' car.] Seriously i would recommend to anyone to go for an Accent. The only disadvantage I see in going for a Korean car is in Sri Lanka, is that the 02nd hand market isn't that great here. But if you are planning to use the car for a long time - i would say go for it.
    1 point
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