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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/26/2019 in Posts

  1. Check the auction sheets, get an inspection done, verify jaai jevic, inspect original documents and compare online Importing the vehicle is much safer. Even if import documents are shady, the inspection will reveal the car, VITZs are the most scammed up model to reach the country at the moment, most being wrecked cars or high mileage.
    3 points
  2. Usually I go at around 6pm and then I get the car at around 4am 7am is too warm to stay the whole day, so I take a pack of ciggies with me and spend the night there when there is less crowd, less noisy and less warm and sometimes I take few beers also, and a friend who lives closeby (who is also a customer of Ravi), and we do beers and chat till morning
    1 point
  3. Agree with Tiv. Due to the popularity of the vitz many car sales have wrecked and high mileage cars nicely dressed up and mileage tampered. If you are buying from a sale double check auction sheets. An uncle of mine wanted to buy a Vitz last year and initially checked from a car sale. I hadalready told him tobe vary - so he had asked for auction sheets inorder to see theauction grade and thejokers had Shown hiM an auction sheet from an axio! He ended up importing one.
    1 point
  4. @Cee Jay It was done in 2012. Cost would be doubled by now. For me it was around Rs 8,000/- (Including labour).
    1 point
  5. true that. Make sure you take all ur meals packed if possible take a portable chair as well
    1 point
  6. Hi. I had the same issue with my FB 14. This one is common for Nissan I guess. It was due to a fault in Injectors. I got it repaired from Ravi in Kelaniya as @PerfMad mentioned. He just replaced injectors and I used the vehicle without any issue until it was sold in 2014. My only opinion is if your planning to visit Ravi, make sure to be there at least by 7 am and be prepared to spend the entire day?. He will find all spare parts by his own. So no hassles in that. He is a nice guy.
    1 point
  7. I would also get the coil-packs checked while you are at it.. Again, very easily accessible from the top.
    1 point
  8. This is the place https://www.google.lk/maps/@6.9671699,79.9079507,3a,75y,328.9h,79.16t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1snUOb0Ax5Kcu42UxHRP8k3Q!2e0!7i13312!8i6656?hl=en his contact no - 072 214 2143 (if you are going better go in the morning and stay there and get it sorted, otherwise it will take ages to get ur car as he is a busy person)
    1 point
  9. im suspecting the crank position sensor as well. If you pay a visit to Ravi (kelaniya) he should have plenty of parts to swap and verify.
    1 point
  10. Check crank angle sensor (attached to the engine block at the bottom) and cam angle sensor (attached to the engine head at the top) if possible. Quite easy to swap from another car to test (if you have access to a car with a similar engine).
    1 point
  11. Could be due to low fuel pressure. To determine if this is the cause, get a mechanic to hook up a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail and have you start the car while the car is showing the symptoms. If you have low fuel pressure, it could be due to a bad fuel pump, clogged fuel filter or faulty furl pressure regulator. How many kilometres ago did you last do a fuel system clean-up (i.e tune up)?
    1 point
  12. that's a weird warm start issue. I'm interested in knowing what causes this too.
    1 point
  13. During a cold start, does your idle RPM raise to around 2000 and gradually settle down to normal as the engine warms up? Also, is your idle RPM when warm stable at around 650 - 750?
    1 point
  14. Of course. Wasn't trying to hurt anybody's feelings. It's actually great that he's a real owner of the vehicle and happy with it, rather than a marketing agent from UML trying to persuade people.
    1 point
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