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so I thought of sharing the information of the colour change process at RMV as it is not the same process as it was before few years back. 2 years ago, when i wanted to get the book updated for my colour change for my previous car it was so simple.. you obtain a form from narahenpita rmv, then go to werahera rmv and show the car. they then just check the chassis number, engine number and then one inspector approves the form with a seal with a 500 buck receipt. then had to go to narahenpita rmv with the form and the book of the car and they will send the book in 4,5 months time after updating it. thats it. That was then but now, shit gets real as the process has changed. Now if the car has lease, you can't get the colour change approval. You need to clear all your lease and get the book to your hand before the color change. Then you have to go get the form from narahenpita RMV and go to werahera RMV early in the morning at 8 and then stay in the queue. even if you go first doesnt mean you are the first to be inspected. also if you dont go before 10, you will be sent home to come early the next day. you stay seated inside for like 2 hours until they call your name. then you have to pay 500 bucks and get a receipt from them. Then you have to sit and wait for another hour until they call your name. And then they finally call your name. then you have to put the vehicle to the vehicle scale. then the weight of your vehicle showed in the scale should match the weight mentioned in the CR. if it doesnt match you are doomed, you cant get the approval. luckily the weight tallied mine. Then comes an inspector. He checks the engine number, chassis number, colour of the car. not only that they even measure the length of the car, height of the car, tire size, wheelbase, and all the details which are mentioned in the CR and all of those should tally what is in the book. if you have tyre size upgraded then you have to go through the process of submitting the tyre change forms as well. likewise everything should match in the book. then the first inspector checks all those and gives a signature. luckily all of those in the CR matched mine again. then you get to sit for another 1 and half hours. Then comes the turn of the head inspector.. so for another round, you have to repeat the same process of scaling, measuring heights and lengths of the car with him as well for the 2nd time.. this time not only that, he also check if the car is mechanically or physically faulty. he tells you to blink headlights, show if signal lights, parking lights as well as number plate lights are working and then he also gets inside the damn engine and check for oil leaks.. mine had a small oil leaking from the packing, therefore my colour change was not approved and told me to go fix the leak and come.. then the next time you come they once again do the process of inspecting the car 2 times by 2 different inspectors and once again they check if the car is in absolute mint condition like a brand new car. and once again pay 125 bucks and take a receipt and stay in the queue. and if there are no faults then the head inspector gives the approval. then you have to take that approval form to rmv narahenpita with the book, and after few months you get the updated book with the updated information. now i know after you read this you wont ever want to go through a colour change process. i had to go 3 times to get the approval form only. hope this information helps. PS: This is the legal way ok

Greetings guys, It’s been a while and I have Few updates to report. Replaced Rear tires- As confirmed before I wanted to use Bridgestone potenzas. Checked with autodrome and few other places, But damn those babies are expensive. Hence had to settle with a pair of Nankang Sports NS-20 (225/45/R18). Can not complain or compare as anyway I am riding low profile which makes me aware of slightest bumps/Pat holes on the road. These were the only affordable ones I could find to fit my wallet.( if you are wondering it cost me 47k for the 2 tires which includes Wheel balancing and alignment). Ac was blowing hot air- At first I thought it could be a leak in the system. Hence recharged the system and performed a through inspection through a professional. No leaks were found. However I am keeping an eye and Will monitor in the coming months. Brakes were making a squeaking noise in cool temperature- as I suspected front brake pads were showing their age and brake pads were replaced. No more shouting!! What good is an update without any pics? Taken from a few road trips that I went and some in my neighborhood. Enjoy Cheerz!!

Refer to your users manual and find the values for brake pedal free play and pedal-to-floor clearance when fully depressed. I don't think hybrid hub folk have that kind of information, just the gut feeling Here's how to measure it: (pedal reserve distance = pedal-to-floor clearance) Your users manual will list the values like this (differs from car to car so refer to your own users manual, this is how mine lists the specs)

Nice

@Hyaenidae There's no functionality. I fitted those for aesthetic purposes only. Got them for free thanks to @ELNINO.

? Love the pics... thanks for sharing! The fog light buttons on the center console, is it from the factory? Aren't the fog lights controlled by the stalk?

Hi, first of all stop driving the vehicle and take it your local garage right away. You are putting yourself and the other people's lives at risk. There could be number of reasons for this. 1. Air bubbles are trapped inside the system. 2. Loss of brake fluid. 3. Brake master cylinder has gone bad. 4. Bad brake booster. 5, A Leak somewhere in the brake system. 6, Brake wear and adjustment. I would first suggest bleeding the brake system to see if the problem goes away.

Try changing the cable on your existing antenna. Sometimes if it has shaved (and touching something) or broken it might be bad....is there an "antenna" "drawn" on the windscreen ? If so it might be damaged as well...since you do not have an external protruding antenna fixing one neatly can be tricky....even if you get a pasting type fin antenna (or a conventional rod type) you will have to drill the body at some place to pass the cable in or you will just have to pass it in through a door crack or something. To remove the stereo you will have to take off the surrounding bezel. Os of the time they are clip ons. Be careful when you pull it out because if you break the snapping clips it will never fit properly and will be vibrating. Once you remove the bezel you will see screws...you will have fogure out which screws to remove as it is different from car to car (in some cars you can just remove the stereo in some rare occasions you might actually have to remove another panel to remove the stereo). There are plastic prying tools designed to remove these bezels....try those or you can use a butter knife of something. Try not to use a screwdriver to pull it out as the screwdrivers are thick it will leave marks...(one of those micro screwdrivers would also be okay I suppose)

All of these coatings are basically just an added clearcoat like layer, all of them will wear off eventually. For the price of those things, you can easily get your car waxed once a month at a proper place for years on end and still have cash left over.