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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/15/2019 in all areas

  1. 11 points
    Toyota Gorilla Ashkio 141 japan modal (not thaiwan) ,Bajj intariyal ,winkel miraar, pul opshan, baket shit, lady doktar owning, ganuin milaj 69,000 km. Hand 10,00,000 /- pinans 53,000 *48, Susuki avery badi van sexchange conisadared.
  2. 9 points
    Its like taking a grandma to midn*ght [email protected]
  3. 8 points
    so I thought of sharing the information of the colour change process at RMV as it is not the same process as it was before few years back. 2 years ago, when i wanted to get the book updated for my colour change for my previous car it was so simple.. you obtain a form from narahenpita rmv, then go to werahera rmv and show the car. they then just check the chassis number, engine number and then one inspector approves the form with a seal with a 500 buck receipt. then had to go to narahenpita rmv with the form and the book of the car and they will send the book in 4,5 months time after updating it. thats it. That was then but now, shit gets real as the process has changed. Now if the car has lease, you can't get the colour change approval. You need to clear all your lease and get the book to your hand before the color change. Then you have to go get the form from narahenpita RMV and go to werahera RMV early in the morning at 8 and then stay in the queue. even if you go first doesnt mean you are the first to be inspected. also if you dont go before 10, you will be sent home to come early the next day. you stay seated inside for like 2 hours until they call your name. then you have to pay 500 bucks and get a receipt from them. Then you have to sit and wait for another hour until they call your name. And then they finally call your name. then you have to put the vehicle to the vehicle scale. then the weight of your vehicle showed in the scale should match the weight mentioned in the CR. if it doesnt match you are doomed, you cant get the approval. luckily the weight tallied mine. Then comes an inspector. He checks the engine number, chassis number, colour of the car. not only that they even measure the length of the car, height of the car, tire size, wheelbase, and all the details which are mentioned in the CR and all of those should tally what is in the book. if you have tyre size upgraded then you have to go through the process of submitting the tyre change forms as well. likewise everything should match in the book. then the first inspector checks all those and gives a signature. luckily all of those in the CR matched mine again. then you get to sit for another 1 and half hours. Then comes the turn of the head inspector.. so for another round, you have to repeat the same process of scaling, measuring heights and lengths of the car with him as well for the 2nd time.. this time not only that, he also check if the car is mechanically or physically faulty. he tells you to blink headlights, show if signal lights, parking lights as well as number plate lights are working and then he also gets inside the damn engine and check for oil leaks.. mine had a small oil leaking from the packing, therefore my colour change was not approved and told me to go fix the leak and come.. then the next time you come they once again do the process of inspecting the car 2 times by 2 different inspectors and once again they check if the car is in absolute mint condition like a brand new car. and once again pay 125 bucks and take a receipt and stay in the queue. and if there are no faults then the head inspector gives the approval. then you have to take that approval form to rmv narahenpita with the book, and after few months you get the updated book with the updated information. now i know after you read this you wont ever want to go through a colour change process. i had to go 3 times to get the approval form only. hope this information helps. PS: This is the legal way ok
  4. 7 points
    It's been a while since the last entry where I rambled on about the minor details but now for the all important part how does this actually drive. I've done over 5000 Km's now and I guess spend enough time with the car to give my honest feedback on how it handles etc. I'm not going to dwell on the statistics and figures since that is readily available on the internet - but for formalities sake the Civic comes with the P10A2 engine - Honda's 3 cylinder turbo charged engine which has somewhere between 125-130 BHP. So the overall driving experience ? Well it's adequate and after the break-in period it seems the car is actually quite eager than it was initially. There is a bit of turbo lag and coupled with the torque at low revs you feel a bit like driving a diesel ....no complaints though. A question I usually get from some people is whether this model comes with the much maligned DCT - well surprise surprise it does not. Honda have mated the P10A2 with a CVT. Of course there is always the manual and that is actually supposed to be great as per reviews from the UK - but considering I use this car to drive daily to and from work in the colombo traffic I had to be a masochist to opt for a manual (which I'm not - and god bless future me when I try to sell a manual in Sri Lanka ) . Those who have driven the GP5's and Graces know that the Dual clutch set up is actually a blast to drive - which is not the case with the CVT. My previous car also had a CVT gear box and frankly I'm not a fan of them at all. But then given how DCT's fared locally I guess having a rubbery CVT over a DCT setup is not a huge deal. All grades of the FK6 comes with paddle-shifters - now I know it's a bit funny to see paddle shifters and CVT in the same sentence but what the setup actually does is have more of a simulated shifting mechanism going when you use them. When you're in normal 'Drive' mode you can use the shifters to change gears but the car is too eager to override you and kind of spoils the fun. However if you change your gear to 'S' then the HUD will display an 'M' indicating that the car is ready to receive manual input and a blinking indicator also indicates when the time is right to shift up. Of course if you don't shift at the right moment the car will give you some time and after a while will override you. S mode, and the 7-Speed CVT with the shifters is a little fun time to time but I think it's there more as a gimmick to be perfectly honest. I will upload a video on this later on and update the entry. There is an ECO mode which can be enabled/disabled by a switch on the gear shifter console. Turning off the Eco mode will give you a more fun driving experience as the car is much more peppier. For more fun on an open road shift to S and use the shifters. I use the E03 expressway daily and that's where this car really feels home at. I mentioned the low end torque - around 2250 RPM there is a sweet spot and you can feel that pull. Due to it's dynamics the car feels very well planted and very stable at high speeds. You just feel the car hugging the road and hurtling forward - which is a really nice feeling. The handling is quite good -the steering is a little lifeless but adequately sharp and the ride is very controlled. I drive an SR which does not have the adaptive damper system found on the EX. The ride is generally smooth even with some potholes - though I cannot give any feedback about the rear since I've never actually traveled in the back seat. Road noise is something I've always associated with Honda's and once again this is no exception though the road noise insulation is comparatively better than that of smaller cars like the Fit. But it does a good job of cutting out the racket from that noisy 3 pot engine - which believe me is quite loud and rough when you actually open the hood and take a look. But inside the car it's generally quiet. To sum it up ... Cars with downsized engines for the sake of reducing emissions and improving gas-mileage are not meant to be fast performance cars in the first place. But Honda have tried to give the driver a bit of feel-good factor with the fake air vents and the paddle shifters and the overall 'sporty' feel. I wish it didn't have the CVT gear box and the steering was a little less lighter. But the noisy little 3 pot engine pulls really well given it's size and the weight of the car. The 1L Turbo Civic is no Type R but for a bird with clipped wings it flies pretty well. And now for the FAQ Section ---------------------------------------------------- [1] "Nice car bro how does it do on fuel ? " : I drive in generally bad traffic I wouldn't claim it to be the worst since I don't travel to areas like Rajagiriya/Dehiwala etc. And the car returns around 7-8 KMPL. On general I get about 10 KMPL in a 50-50 City/Suburban drive. On the Expressway I get around 6L/100Km which means about 16.6 KMPL. On the average long distance drive on non expressways depending on the time of the day the car will do between 12-16 KMPL. [2] "The car is a bit low isn't it? " : One fear I had earlier about the car before purchase is it's low ground clearance - somehow I have found it to be ok so far. I recently traveled on one of the most horrible roads I have seen in the western province - it was a tiny impossibly narrow dirt road with immense pot holes and pieces of rock jutting out leading to an almost forgotten home for the senior citizens where we had to give dinner. It was a hellish drive in pitch darkness but somehow i got through without a single scrape. For a better understanding I will try to upload some daytime pics of the said road. [3] "Aren't the back seats a bit cramped?" Leg-space wise no. There's quite a lot of leg space . The thing is due to the curved shape of the roof some may feel that head-space is a bit lacking. The only person to complain so far was my 6'3" /125Kg cousin. So unless you're some behemoth you are OK. Having said that I must say the Civic is a little too driver oriented with a lot of care given to the driver and lesser focus to the passengers: for instance the seat height adjustment is not available for the front passenger. It's a little darker in the back too.
  5. 6 points
    Already 2 years completed under my ownership and odo is now 123,500km. Sorry for not updating the thread for a while. No special maintenance work carried out within the period, other than replacing the battery and few bulbs. Saturday I had some troublesome experience at Kandy. I could not shift gear from “P” to other positions. Immediately contacted Mr.Sisira Kumara (Service Advisor at Unit#d Mot#rs) and gentleman was very kind to help me over the phone giving instructions as follows, even it was a holiday for him. (1) Press the button on gear knob and check for some free play when it press. (2) If so, use shorter screw driver and remove two screws on gear knob. (Long screw driver cannot use here due to placement of CD changer) (3) Pull the knob up and then you can see white colour small plastic parts falling down. (Brittle) (4) Remove gear knob and now you can press the middle rod by your finger and can shift gears . So I could manage to bring the vehicle to Colombo without a trouble. The issue was due to damaged and ruptured Gear Shift Sleeve. It is a white colour plastic sleeve looks like a roll plug. Mitsubishi part number is MR581866 (Sleeve, Gear) and cost was Rs.1,109/=. Hence this sleeve replace and problem solved.
  6. 5 points
    All mechanical work on the project Moggie will discuss here. This was the differential original status. Cleaned & painted differential Back brake liners were wet with leaked differential oil because of weak oil seals. Found matching oil seal from local market and hope it will fix the leaking. Cleaned & painted brake shoes with newly applied liners. Cleaned and painted leaf springs Present status
  7. 5 points
    I've sort of been off the grid for a few weeks because of so many personal matters including moving house and what not. Finally found the time to post this. Meet the newest addition to our family. A 2003 Mazda 323 Astina SP20 BJ-II J48. Wait what?? Let me break down each part of that... It's a 2003 Mazda 323 (JDM version is known as "Familia"). I guess that's pretty clear. "Astina" is the name used for the hatch. The sedan is called the "Protege" (Remember the Mazdaspeed Protege anyone? 😍) SP20 is the top of the range model with a 2.0L FS engine (131 horses), sports suspension, different body styling, white gauge cluster, automatic AC etc. BJ is the series. BJ-II (BJ2) is the facelift version. J48 is the very last revision of the BJ series. I was on the lookout for a car to be used as a point A to B car and to be driven on a daily basis to the train station etc. I didn't want it to be boring, hence the SP20. I wanted it to be a small hatch so that my wife can easily drive it (she finds the RalliArt a bit too intimidating due to the power). It was between The 323 and Lancer CS VR-X. Gave up on the Lancer after seeing the options on the Mazda and how popular and rare the SP20 is (sounds like blasphemy I know). After about a month of hunting down one, finally found this beautiful example in Titanium Grey, just 139,000km (remember, we are talking about Australia here and that is a really low mileage). The icing on the cake is that I even got it with 1 year dealer warranty (car had been a trade-in). Of course there's signs of age - a few scratches here and there, wheel paint flaking off, front rotors need to be replaced etc. But it certainly is a zippy little car that's fun to drive. Nardi Torino steering! White gauge cluster The different front end with large fog lights. The FS engine. Note the factory fitted strut bar. I've not seen bonnet and headlight protectors in Sri Lanka, but the car has them installed from the dealership. So the headlights are like brand new -no yellowing. A couple of the SP20 stickers are faded. I've ordered a new set already.
  8. 5 points
    Greetings guys, It’s been a while and I have Few updates to report. Replaced Rear tires- As confirmed before I wanted to use Bridgestone potenzas. Checked with autodrome and few other places, But damn those babies are expensive. Hence had to settle with a pair of Nankang Sports NS-20 (225/45/R18). Can not complain or compare as anyway I am riding low profile which makes me aware of slightest bumps/Pat holes on the road. These were the only affordable ones I could find to fit my wallet.( if you are wondering it cost me 47k for the 2 tires which includes Wheel balancing and alignment). Ac was blowing hot air- At first I thought it could be a leak in the system. Hence recharged the system and performed a through inspection through a professional. No leaks were found. However I am keeping an eye and Will monitor in the coming months. Brakes were making a squeaking noise in cool temperature- as I suspected front brake pads were showing their age and brake pads were replaced. No more shouting!! What good is an update without any pics? Taken from a few road trips that I went and some in my neighborhood. Enjoy Cheerz!!
  9. 4 points
  10. 4 points
    Kind of difficult to pinpoint one BUT I just have this inexplicable thing for the Datsun 240Z - I know I'll never own an actual one but thankfully my father gave me a 1/18 for Christmas a few years back.
  11. 4 points
    Friends, one of my colleagues is searching a Toyota sedan. He was new to vehicles and he was respecting one mechanic known to him. That mech fellow told our guy that "Toyota Gorilla" is a good car and find one.....:). He is now chasing after me to find that.....:). Is there anything such Toyota Gorilla released around 2006 ~ 2009? Don't know whether these guys referring to Corolla or something.....:)
  12. 4 points
    Let’s raise white flags on our rides to mourn the loss of lives
  13. 4 points
    I own an Axio 141 (2007) with a 135,000km. So here are some of my knowledge on engine tune up which I've learnt on YouTube & forums along with the experience on my car. Tune up is a maintenance to make the car run RIGHT. Which is to increase performance, fuel efficiency & to reduce future repairs. 1. Changing engine oil. Change ur engine oil every 5,000 to 6,000 km. Always remeber engine oil is cheap but engine repairs are very expensive. I use 'Mobil 2000, semi synthetic 5W30' apprx 3.3 litres. I buy oils & filters at Panchikawatta (Mobil 2000 oil 1L 1200/=, VIC oil filter 1,000, toyota air filter 3,500 & cabin air filter 1,000) and i change it at a service centre for just 500/=. This way i save around 3,000 to 5,000 if i had it done at a service centre. 2. Oil additives. I've added Liqui Moly 'Ceratec' to my engine on my last oil change after lots of research on YouTube & reviews so i used abt 3.1 litres of 5W30 + 190ml of ceratec. I was pretty happy & satisfied with the results. Engine started to run alot smoother & quiter (less vibration even when starting a cold engine, quite idle plus my fuel economy has improved). This costs 3,600 yet its a long term investment which its effects might last upto another 3 or 4 oil changes. I highly recommend. 3. Filters. Its very important to change ur filters at the right intravels for optimal performance. Use OEM filters. Dont buy cheap oil & air filters to save money. Change ur oil filter on every oil change intravel and ur air filters if their dirty. Cz clean air filters helps to breathe clean uninterrupted air to the engine in return it gives performance & good fuel economy. Next is ur cabin air filter. Its very cheap so that u can change it at every oil change intravels for a cleaner A/C. 4. Throttle body & MAF sensor. This is a very simple DIY maintenance to improve cars fuel efficiency, performance & engine tune though many forgets. Just buy a Throttle body cleaner spray and a MAFS cleaner/Contact cleaner would cost 2,500 for both or less. There are plenty of videos on YouTube so plz refer before starting. Do the cleaning on every oil change intravels for keep ur car at its optimal performance. Trust me it will make a great improvement. 5. Fuel system. I've had very good experience of using Liqui Moly Injection cleaner (900/=) poured directly in to the fuel tank. Had noticeable changes in throttle response & a smoother idle with increase in fuel economy along with internally it helps to clean fuel injectors & more (I've used it before i add the ceratec so i know it made a difference, hence now with ceratec i see the same differances without it so i knw ceratec works good too! But to clean ur fuel system this cleaner would definitely helps). I suggest it to use it on ur every oil change or as the company suggests to use every 2,000km. But all i can say is that it works! 6. Spark plugs. Just check ur spark plugs at a service centre. Usually they lasts from 50k to 100k km depending on the driving conditions. So change them if needed. It only cost around 2,000 per spark plug. Hense bad spark plug means poor performance & bad fuel consumption. I changed & the results were just amazing. 7. Others. Good tyres. Tyre pressure. Coolant. Wheel alignment. Hope these would help. Good luck
  14. 3 points
    Drove the new Mitsu Eclipse Cross and I’m amazed by the balance between comfort and handling. Certainly comfortable as a car, while being sporty enough to rocket out the corners. Highly recommend over the Honda CRV. The turbocharged 1500cc is much more livelier than what you get in the CRV. Only downside is the fuel economy which is around 12kmpl during long runs and 6-7 round the town.
  15. 3 points
    Update : Brake system rebuilt with a master pump repair kit, wheel cylinder rubbers (washers) and new brake liners. All pipes cleaned, flushed and filled with new oil. Here are some images.
  16. 3 points
    Today, my review is based on one of the most frequently seen cars on SL roads; Toyota Axio Hybrid. Since the car was first introduced in 2012 only as a gasoline variant continuing the 1NZ-FE engine, the Hybrid variant was introduced in 2013. So most people went for the hybrid variant instead of going for the gasoline variant. The the car received a minor facelift in 2015 together with the addition of the Toyota Safety Sense C (link about Safety Sense C- https://www.toyota.com/content/ebrochure/CFA_TSS_C.pdf). From the introduction, the car still remains as one of the most imported cars to SL. Here in this review I'm going to focus mainly on the driving dynamics and build quality. First of all, the looks. Yeah I know that it is not a head turner at all, but I really don't like the exterior look of the pre facelift variant (apologizing from all the owners). The facelifted version looks much better IMO but that is totally based on my personal opinion. Here my review is based on a 2014 Hybrid G variant. So I'll start with the topics. Interior We all know that most people were let down by the interior quality of the 2007-2011 Axio NZE141, due to really cheap and plasticy looking bits and pieces. So the newer version seems nice at the first glance. I really like the soft padding on the door panels and on the passenger side of the dashboard. When you close the door, you'll feel a bit of solidity. Design wise, 161 interior is better than the 141 in almost all the aspects except for the area where the gear shifter is located. On the 141 model the dashboard continues towards the front armrest as a one piece, but on the 161 it looks kind of seperated. This creates an empty space around the gear shitfter, giving the impression of a much more cheaper car. Watch closer and you'll notice the cost cutting effects which took place around the cabin. First one is the hard plastic dashboard top. On the previous 141 generation, the dashboard top panel was finished with a soft touch material. On the G grades, same material was continued on the upper parts of the door panels (dark grey part). But on the 161 Toyota have gone with the cheaper hard plastics. But they would not bring out the dashboard cracking issues which were existed on the 2007-2008 models. Main competitor of the Axio Hybrid, Honda Grace have a much more exciting interior with tons of silver insertings and colourful lighting in the dash. Compared to Grace, Axio's interior looks kind of bland for me, but the feels that it is a bit solid than the Grace. Seating is a bit improved from the 141. You'll get more side support on the front seats and seats are a bit softer (maybe due to the velvet like covers used). Front seating positions are okay and are mainly catered for a comfortable ride than a sporty ride. This car has a good rear seating position for tall passengers. On the Allion/ Premio thigh support is insufficient on the back seats due to lower positioned bench. But on the Axio Hybrid, thigh support is really good for tall passengers. Again you'll notice a cost cutting attempt on the back seats. Fixed headrest. Shame on you Toyota. You'll only get adjustable headrests in the Luxel variant, but there are only a few and those are gasoline versions. Leg space is okay and a bit better than the 141, but lacks when compared to Grace. Still most people would find the interior space is adequate. Options Almost equal to 141, but lesser than the Grace. You'll find Stability control and Electronic brake force distribution which was only available in the Luxel of the 141. Also you'll get nanoe (generates ions with water particles to reduce skin drying out when using the AC). From 2015 facelift, safety features became standard throughout all the grades. But thw two front tweeters came with the G limited and above variants of the 141 were absent. Actually there is nothing more to say about the options, so let's move on to discuss how it drives. Driving Once you sit on an Axio Hybrid you'll have to totally forget that you are in a driver's car. I mean "TOTALLY". Even from the earlier days most Toyotas are not famous for sportier rides, but there was a very little amount of enjoyment left. VERY LITTLE. But here, it is NONE. Even boring cars like Allions, Premios, 141s, Aquas, Prius and suprisingly the gasoline variant of the 161 Hybrid feels much more engaging to drive than the Hybrid Axio (But still miles behind other cars like Mazda Axela). I drove it on a twisty road and I got ZERO feedback from the steering. No weight. Numb. You can't predict how the tires would react to your input given through the steering. I almost met with an accident when I took a bend after speeding a bit on a straight road, because I was unable to predict how the car would react to the steering input given by me. The problem is when you drive the car at higher speeds you cannot predict the amount you'll need to turn the steering wheel to take the bend. Even the boat like Allions and Premios have a little weight to the steering which would help you a bit in this kind of occasions. Aqua shares the same powertrain with the Axio hybrid, but feels more nimble and sharper to drive. But this issue is less pronounced when you drive the car slowly. It is dead easy to drive and maneuver around the town due to this lightness. But on corners, the car has plenty of grip than the previous generation. I experienced a noticeable reduction in body roll when compared it with the 141 Axio. Also when you do over 100kmph the car feels well planted on the road than the previous gen ( 141 Axio felt like the car is flying, when the speed is over 120kmph). I remember that Toyota had repeatedly mentioned on their japanese site that the high speed stability was enhanced, at the time when the new model was first introduced. Then the acceleration. On speeds below 50-60kmph it has adequate torque. The motor gives sudden bursts of torque on demand, so it's easy in traffic and low speeds. When you put your foot down, for a brief period you'll really feel the assistance of the motor, but then it slowly fades away around 50-60kmph. For me it does not feel as fast as the 141 Axio ( Let's not compare it with the the Honda's equipped with i-DCD Hybrid System). The car weighs about 1150kg with 110 combined horsepower, but the 1310kg weighing Civic FD3 feels much more livelier and responsive even though it has the same amount of combined horsepower. Again, for day to day driving the powertrain is more than adequate. I know most of you feel disappointed about the driving dynamics about this car at this moment. But you should not forget that it's a Toyota's entry level hybrid. It serves all the purposes which it was intended to fulfill. A major plus point that you can experience in this car is the fuel economy. In freely moving traffic it gives around 15-17kmpl. Long distances would help to squeeze out around 25kmpl. I don't have much knowledge or details about the fuel economy levels, but I would be glad if owners can post the figures as comments. Then the smoothness. When compared to Honda's hybrid systems ; specially the i-DCD Hybrid systems in Fit, Vezel and Grace, the Axio Hybrid is silky smooth. The integration of the engine and the motor is seamless. You won't notice a single sign while the car changing from the motor to the engine, except for the slight engine whirling sound. As I mentioned earlier in this forum, there is a bit of as issue with the Honda i-DCD Hybrid system at the beginning of a steep hill. It feels like the gearbox is confused to choose the correct gear. You won't experience that in the Toyota. It just goes. The powertrain of the Toyota Hybrid system feels polished than the Honda's. Another benefit is the comfort level and refinement. The car is comfortable over bumps than the Honda's due to the softer suspension setup, but not as good as an Allion or a Premio. It's on par with the previous gen IMO. Road noise levels are also low and the hybrid system helps to eliminate the engine noise during lower speeds. I notice a huge difference in comfort and refinement levels in the Honda Grace when compared to the Axio Hybrid. Grace is bumpy and the suspension feels busy over bumps. Harder seats worsen it further. So for doing long distances Axio Hybrid is the best option due to the fuel economy and refinement levels. What we should not forget is that the purposes it was built for and those are economy and easy drive. Issues and Reliability Since I drove the car for a brief period, I cannot comment much about the reliability. The owner of the car (a close friend), I've driven bought it in 2014 as a Zero mileage unit and still owns it without an issue. Now the car has done around 60,000kms. I've heard about premature battery failure, but haven't met an owner who had to experience it. But there is a possibility for that due to the fact that it shares the same powertrain with the Aqua, which is famous for the same issue. Other than that, haven't heard about any complaints. Verdict At the end, all I have to say is that the Axio Hybrid would satisfy you if you expect what it can deliver at its best. Don't look for it expecting handling levels that would put a smile on your face. The issue of the steering wheel can only risky when you push the car to its limits, but if not, that is perfectly tolerable for a typical SL driver. I'd name it as a car which is perfectly suited for the typical SL driver. At the end I have to say that this review is based on none other than my personal experiences. Feel free to highlight the flaws and mistakes, as it would be helpful for my next review. Thank You for reading. -alpha17- For details about grades and variations, you can visit the links below 2012/05 - http://cdn.toyota-catalog.jp/catalog/pdf/corolla-3/corolla-3_201205.pdf 2013/04 - http://cdn.toyota-catalog.jp/catalog/pdf/corolla-3/corolla-3_201304.pdf 2013/08 - http://cdn.toyota-catalog.jp/catalog/pdf/corolla-3/corolla-3_201308.pdf 2015/03 - http://cdn.toyota-catalog.jp/catalog/pdf/corolla-3/corolla-3_201503.pdf
  17. 3 points
    Welcome to the forum and thanks for the appreciation. People generally come here to ask a question, get their answer and never to return. But it seems like you have been a reader long enough to realise that the information shared in the forums is invaluable. Every regular and long term member is responsible for keeping it that way, so kudos to all. My advice to you is that you are just 17. You have your entire life head of you. What you make of it is totally up to you. To quote one of my favourite movies...
  18. 3 points
  19. 3 points
    Hello All, Was browsing though some photos in my E30 project 'folder', so thought of updating this thread. I always wanted to upgrade the stock 14 inch wheels/rims. The factory alloys` specs were: 14 inch by 6inch, +30mm offset, 4x100 pcd, 57.1 centre bore. The tires, at 195/65 R14, were too narrow for my liking and the car was very tail happy in the wet when driven hard. It was difficult to put the power down when the road is slippery, wheel-spin on 3rd gear is fun at times, but not so great on public roads with traffic around. Rear driven cars usually run lower offsets, so perfect fitting wheels are not easy to find for the E30. 4X100 PCD, lower offset with 57.1mm center bore is a rare combination and good quality wheels (specially European styles) are quite rare and expensive in the international market. I did NOT want to modify the hubs or run any sort of wheel adapter. I kept browsing through local classifieds for months, finally found a set of period correct wheels made by Racing Dynamics in Italy (a BMW performance parts supplier). Wheel specs are : 16 inch by 7.5 inch, -25 offset, weight: 8.5kg each. Here are the wheels before they got professionally powder coated: Paint stripped and primer on : During the powder coating process: Paint cured and baked : Final product: On a side note, I also got the engine Valve Cover painted in matte black: Wheels test fitted with new tires: 205/50 R16 - (without center caps on):
  20. 3 points
    Granted..I would settle for any of the cars that are housed/hosted here..
  21. 3 points
    unrealistic unless I win the lottery 😅
  22. 3 points
    mata bayai oii...
  23. 3 points
    MITSUBISHI RE 72826 A THERMO RELAY Finally figured out the wiring for this. I've hastily drawn the wiring diagram on MS paint. This thermo-relay uses a Mitsubishi M51202 IC OPamp as a voltage comparator to compare the potential difference between the NTC resistor used as a sensor and a rheostat used to set the temperature. If the potential difference across the NTC resistor is higher than the potential difference across the rheostat, the AC relay is energized by the output voltage. Here are the wiring diagrams, pinouts, and schematics for the IC. In my case, the unit was faulty due to a blown Zenner. Replacing it solved the issue. Looks like Mitsu L200 and L300 has the same unit.
  24. 3 points
    Chiming in here the AC in my 2018 Civic Hatch stopped cooling as well. Turned out the condenser had massive leaks in multiple places. Car had only done 5000 Kms. Got a new condenser and had to refill R1234yf gas. Total cost 130K!! Seems to be an inherent problem with inferior materials used on the condenser. A quick search says that this is a common issue. Also as the car is low to the ground and has a front grille that has large openings the condenser can be prone to debris damage. May be worthwhile for anyone buying a new civic to get this checked out before taking delivery from your importer.
  25. 3 points
    Thanks , this part help us to judge the validity of your whole comment.
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