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  1. 14 points
    Well it's almost an year now so a quick update on what has happened. Ive done 12500 kms at this point and the car has had two oil changes as well as a wheel alignment done by now. By this point the civic is as common as the flu now. Fuel Consumption The most asked question still, and at10,000+ kms we are well past engine break in etc and we can have a fair idea on actual fuel figures. The 12,500 Km mostly consists City driving, a bit of expressway, and the once a month outstation trip. Overall fuel consumption is about 10KMPL. If further elaborated on average City fuel consumption stands around 8 -9 Kmpl. In the suburbs and outstations it will do anywhere between 10-12. Anomalies being about 15 (6L/100Km) on expressways and on smooth sailing road trips like Trinco. The Ground Clearance Issue Honestly, I was worried about this at the start but it doesnt seem to be a big issue. One thing I noticed is that the suspension is much firmer on the Civic hence the lowering of the car even with a load is much less. On one instance I took a slightly elevated railway crossing at a bit of speed (my bad) I thought I may have sightly nicked the Muffler but I really could not see any damage at all and I wasnt sure I heard a slight sound. But as @Magnum (who drives a ground huggin' HiAce) says over time you get used to be aware of your cars height and drive accordingly. The Wide wheels also help on pothole ridden roads as they hardly fall into them...The small unpaved road leading to my house is in a horrible condition (due to a combination of Trucks hauling stuff to the neighbours house under construction+ the never-ending rain ) there are deep nasty ruts that my other ride ( EP71 Starlet) with its tiny wheels fall into but is never a problem for the Civic. Are the gizmos giving trouble? The automatic braking might end up being a life saver but on day to day drives it can be bothersome. The whole thing is over dramatic and the braking is sudden and violent. When a biker suddenly moves in and the auto break kicks in its sudden, violent and introduces the risk of Madushani who was tailgating you in her Honda Dio ramming you from behind. Proximity Sensors are actually helpful specially when parking (the car is wider than your Aqua/Fit etc ) there is though a mild annoyance that has happened to me half a dozen times in an entire year. The front proximity sensor goes bonkers and starts beeping in heavy rain even when theres nothing in front. A forum member suggested that a misaligned License plate could be the culprit - I haven't investigated that yet since I've not seen this behaviour lately. The Rain Sensing Wipers tend to over react sometimes working full speed when theres actually not much rain. All these of course can be manually changed. Automatic Stop Start might not be a good idea for our local traffic and some users complain of the 12V battery prematurely dying. Remember this is no hybrid so the entire stop start cycle is handled by the battery alone ... Also it can be frustrating when your engine stops and you get green in heavy city traffic. I usually turn this off. Adaptive Cruise control and Lane Keep Assist work like a charm. The sensors detect vehicles moving into your lane as well. The motion sensor inside the car will detect movement inside the car when its locked and will start to create a racket - the idea behind this is to prevent locking in a kid or a pet. Almost every Civic user has had the surprise of the alarm going off due to a couple of flies getting trapped in the car. This also can be turned off. Performance I've seen some people assume the car to be slow due to the tiny engine and turbo lag but actually I feel the CVT is the biggest disappointment but in reality I'd settle for the slightly lethargic CVT than getting continuous DCT issues down the line. To have some fun turn Eco Mode off and switch to Sports mode - you can use the paddle shifters but to be honest the paddle shifters are more or less a simulation...CVT and paddle shifters are really not an ideal combo. Another thing I usually do on a cold start is to leave the engine running for a bit (2+ minutes) before actually moving. Do not rev too hard initially. The handling is really nice - the car is made for open roads and long road trips. I drive on E03 regularly and enjoy taking the bends - the car feels really solid and planted. Braking is good. I've seen videos of folk test the cars limits by driving 200+ km/h, braking at high speed etc (mostly on E03) its dangerous and illegal. Mods done Nothing much actually all I've done so far : *Alloygators (19K at the Meguiars place ) * Nano coating (45K ) * Transparent protective film on the Door steps Overall Verdict : A year of trouble free happy motoring. Yes this is no hybrid and requires 95Oct. But thats a small trade off for a rather complete car for a sub 6Mill budget(SR). The car is a bit wide for a hatch (probably in Mazda 6 territory) so you are better off avoiding those mysterious little by-roads google maps suggest. This is no Wagon R .The car will not double up as an SUV so if you regularly travel on some remote jungle path this is not the car for you. If you live in a narrow tuk tuk lane and drive 20Km in heavy traffic you are going to appreciate the legroom and seat position but not getting to enjoy the car that much. The car is at home on the open roads and highways. A slightly wide, attention seeking drama queen thats quite easy to live with.
  2. 11 points
    Toyota Gorilla Ashkio 141 japan modal (not thaiwan) ,Bajj intariyal ,winkel miraar, pul opshan, baket shit, lady doktar owning, ganuin milaj 69,000 km. Hand 10,00,000 /- pinans 53,000 *48, Susuki avery badi van sexchange conisadared.
  3. 10 points
    The Review So it all started when I decided to replace my Suzuki Hustler, Nice little car, thus the little part got to me, needed something bigger Pondered with playing my budget, sell something that I own? Or go new, went behind Merc CLAs, GLB 200s, Nissan Patrol, 150 Prados, CHRs so on, while in the works, a colleague on a visit to my workplace bought one, caught my attention, decided to go see one, then next day that was sold as another colleague took my word for it, saw it and advanced. Well finally after an extended hospital stay due to dengue hemorrhagic fever and its complications, finally made up my mind and imported a new one, fresh off UK. As usual this won’t be the brochure, so please do tolerate, this is going to be long though, Please note as I don’t have a professional cam, I’ll use professional promotional pics to make my point The exterior, In my personal opinion, it has a boxy look, just like an old school SUV, no sloping roofline, coupe looks etc, plenty of headroom and leg room is also tolerable, my family being mostly obese can fit in, It has pretty normal looking wheels 17”, with road tyres, 40psi and cladded wheel arches, giving this mild off roady yet practical look, it has lock nuts from factory, discs all around, One thing you would notice the door sills are huge, about 8 ” wide, My most favorite feature is the ground clearance, the way they’ve protected the undercarriage gives it ample ground clearance for even mild off roading, wheel articulation is not that good though. Tyres float easily, cross axling is certain Being the SZT trim, headlights are halogen, same with the fogs, it does have a very appealing set of drls, again it has a practical appearance, nothing fancy, almost a dinosaur when you look at newer pugs and the chr, hence why I love it, I went with the complete white, rather than the fancy 2 tone colours. The rear door handle is In the right place, in line with the front! The doors and the clamshell hood close with a very reassuring thump, this model does not have the panoramic sunroof or the safety / autobrake radar guidance kit. The rear is very simple, huge hatch, button operated, manual pull up and down. Led lights large and simple, I do like the fact the blinkers are hidden in the red taillight It has a large single reverse light, with an integrated red rear fog light, UK stuff! Its got large mirrors, power but they don’t fold, no winker lights, just fender indicators Folks in UK have heaps of good reviews all over as well. One reason I went ahead with it as they abuse their cars mostly. The interior, The SZT trim comes with Key start, which again I prefer Honestly love the interior, very plain, simple lines, the gauge cluster is very pretty functional, old school needles, pleased with the led display in the middle, shiny plastics easily scratched though Seats are hard but comfortable enough, they are very stingy on carpeting though, but gone ninja on soundproofing, door cards are wide but very plasticky, the upper half of the dash is padded, Paddle shifters move with the wheel – not a fan, well the steering is telescoping and adjustable and a very nice bit of kit, got all the multifunction luxuries, all lit in a nice red I feel the interior is extremely well insulated, being UK spec, as It tends to hold a temp for upto 6 hours in the cabin. There are very recognizable deep footwells, allowing dirt to collect, a vacuum is a must, rear being a bit small but can easily accommodate, Rear headroom is like in a van, zero issues, and you can easily look out the window unlike the CHR and vezel, or go all german shepherd with it down The glovebox is nice, the movement is damped, its lit, door cards have some storage, Rear seats do fold to give a slanted surface and does come in line with the boot, this model doesn’t have a spare wheel, hence the rear load tray can be placed at 3 levels, in one level you can hide the parcel shelf in the floor! Plenty of space in the boot, more than enough for 4 sri Lankan(s) luggage, again very stingy on the carpet, plenty of storage pockets, the repair kit is also rather small and tiny, It has a normal headliner, light colour, but very thick door seals, Overall rear and door trim feels plasticky yet, I mean not even comparable to a euro, but definitely better than a typical new jap, trim parts are firmly fixed, zero play Geek stuff Well its got TPMS, fancy MID, nice graphics there, torque power graphs, stuff of swifts! And IDLE stop, which can be delayed permenantly, Programmable lights, warnings, footwell lights, various blinks on rear lights, wiper timing, aircon levels, Infact there is a geek fest hidden menu in the MID, many settings to play with, including thank god! UNITs, it has the metric option on demand, and the clock has gps mode and manual mode! Its got 6 airbags, and fancy seatbelts, and a fest of isofix mounts THE SOUND SYSTEM? This is where the interior shines, the head unit is bosch, with Suzuki software, speakers I’m yet to confirm myself but my sales contact in UK, the sudda said they are sourced off JBL. The sound quality speaks for itself, go test one, don’t believe me. Zero distortion! This will be my first car where I have not replaced the door speakers or head unit, no need for a sub either, the factory software is epic, I had a leaf with BOSE gear, yet I did some changes but this, let it rest Nothing fancy, no graphics, fancy bits, but loaded with everything, within 4 squares, its even got carplay and android auto, I’m yet to find a way to install a local map to the gps, BT SD cameras, USB, etc it has all Call integration on this is better than a high end pioneer unit, has a separate steering control pad as well ENGINE and DRIVETRAIN The engine well, all 1000cc’s of underpowered goodness? Well no, actually I can’t thrash it as its still run a few km and need a break in, doesn’t feel slow, turbo is very responsive, but tiny in person, fits on your palm tiny! With a cute little BOV that whispers Being a 3 cyl. The engine ain’t noisy, no vibrations either, very impressive, I mean its enough for an SUV, I live up a almost 30 degree incline and it does climb up in 2nd or 3rd gear, the all grip system, is a poor excuse for 4wd, honestly other than auto whatever the mod, its like a dog on skates, sends too much of torque to wheels, everything starts to slip, yet I’ve never got the requirement to run it in 4wd under normal circumstances! Being FWD it just crawls on, just tested it The gearbox, this thing is like its on meth, constantly playing with the gears, revs the nuts off the engine, its not cvt, conventional, and noticeably jerky, moves gears too fast, very rev happy, loves to kick down and hold a low gear, bad recipe for breaking in I’m yet to get in sync with it, it loves to run the engine on high revs 2000 and up, which I don’t, it has enough gut to go in low revs, the best part is the paddles respond even when on D, allowing me to go in higher gears at will. Fuel economy- its got a PPF, so specced at 95 OC , lot of horror stories to come. 10kmpl that’s it for me, near far wherever you are Brakes, 4 moderately sized discs? What more do I say THE DRIVE Well this is where things change, most people like this, but was a let down for me, It handles like a car, suspension is not very soft, extremely comfortable, null body roll, very tight on corners, a very fast steering rack, I expected the whole boat bubbly SUV feel which this doesn’t have, probably shares something with the swift, brakes are superb, the engine has a nice little hum, can’t say roar, hell no Aircon, really good, no drop in power when its on, basic climate control system, simple display works well, no rear vents though but no complaints. Yet to try in Colombo Very good grip on 2wd mode, putting it on Auto is ok but on other modes is like sticking it in 2nd gear forever, doesn’t freewheel WHAT I HATE The horn, sounds like an orgasming cat, Carpets, it’s an SUV? Why the bloody kei car carpets Those wide door sills, will break an ankle shortly Yellowish halogen lamps, many telepathic communications regarding the mom of the guy who decided to put em. Wheel size, I prefer a chunkier tyre, smaller rim, Rear seats, can’t slide front and back, hence they’ve permanently left a large boot That center reverse light, I like a bit of symmetry! UK things, Bit of padding on the upper part of the doors? The antenna, of course its got GPS Glonass and all that, but a sharkfin? No option now The center arm rest flips up to reveal a small bin, where you can’t even shove a wallet in Overall, Again honestly I’m very pleased with it, finding every excuse to put a few km in to ease the break in mileage, it was a win-win for me, as I got it during the GBP dip, I’m hoping to keep this for a long time, probably a decade, and its got bucketloads of accessories online from UK, hence will manage keeping me broke for a long time, and yea I pissed the wife, she liked the small car, buying this I had to leave ‘her vitz’ in the rain as my garage got too crowded, after much torment ended up making a DIY cantilever extension, which managed to hold in this torrential weather and ended me falling of a 8ft ladder, cheers!
  4. 10 points
    Its like taking a grandma to midn*ght [email protected]
  5. 8 points
    Painting was a most challenging field for me. Because never attempt to do a vehicle paint job earlier other than painting walls in the house . But I have watched (not seen) many times how a painter working from applying filler to last coat. There is a neighbor who do paint jobs and that was a big strength for me as it is possible to clarify somethings from him. So finally decided to learn the art of painting by Moggie. Gathered the basic knowledge from reading some articles and found following video very informative. Also these two technical books. How To Paint A Car At Home In 4 Easy Steps (video)  Causeway Automotive Paints (pdf) Debeer Paints (pdf) Next challenge was a paint gun and a air compressor. Bought a F75 paint spray gun and some flexible hose after expending around Rs 2500. But a air compressor is bit expensive. So again started to find alternatives. Firstly bough a 'paint zoom paint sprayer'. Though it could use with my spray gun with modified hose, the air pressure was not enough to spray well. So found an old deep freezer compressor and a empty AC gas tank. Used them with a foot air pump pressure gauge and some clips to make my air compressor. What could not find was a safety pressure release valve. So had to keep eye on the gauge frequently. When I get familiar with spray gun, watching pressure gauge was not essential as it can feel pressure via spray flame. Tried to remove existing paint in most body panels as the first job. Because the floorboard was completely new it made my task easy.
  6. 8 points
    Update : Repairing the gearbox The second gear popped out several times while carrying the car to home. Also 1st gear had a bad noise. So decided to open the box and check. This is my first experience of repairing a gearbox. So went through the workshop manual few times before try it. But it was not that much complex as I thought . Above images are the initial status of gearbox. Firstly noticed that there was very low oil amount inside it while manual says its 1.3 liters. The speedometer cable & drive pinion was missing and that could be the reason to fill oil partially. These pictures shows casing, rare cover, second motion shaft, three shifter shafts & gear selectors. Replaced the first motion shaft razor RLS 8. All other parts was in good shape. But there was enough dirt inside the box. So cleaned everything and washed with kerosene oil. Finally could not find packing set even from S**ana motors, Panchikawatta. So had to prepare all packing myself.
  7. 8 points
    so I thought of sharing the information of the colour change process at RMV as it is not the same process as it was before few years back. 2 years ago, when i wanted to get the book updated for my colour change for my previous car it was so simple.. you obtain a form from narahenpita rmv, then go to werahera rmv and show the car. they then just check the chassis number, engine number and then one inspector approves the form with a seal with a 500 buck receipt. then had to go to narahenpita rmv with the form and the book of the car and they will send the book in 4,5 months time after updating it. thats it. That was then but now, shit gets real as the process has changed. Now if the car has lease, you can't get the colour change approval. You need to clear all your lease and get the book to your hand before the color change. Then you have to go get the form from narahenpita RMV and go to werahera RMV early in the morning at 8 and then stay in the queue. even if you go first doesnt mean you are the first to be inspected. also if you dont go before 10, you will be sent home to come early the next day. you stay seated inside for like 2 hours until they call your name. then you have to pay 500 bucks and get a receipt from them. Then you have to sit and wait for another hour until they call your name. And then they finally call your name. then you have to put the vehicle to the vehicle scale. then the weight of your vehicle showed in the scale should match the weight mentioned in the CR. if it doesnt match you are doomed, you cant get the approval. luckily the weight tallied mine. Then comes an inspector. He checks the engine number, chassis number, colour of the car. not only that they even measure the length of the car, height of the car, tire size, wheelbase, and all the details which are mentioned in the CR and all of those should tally what is in the book. if you have tyre size upgraded then you have to go through the process of submitting the tyre change forms as well. likewise everything should match in the book. then the first inspector checks all those and gives a signature. luckily all of those in the CR matched mine again. then you get to sit for another 1 and half hours. Then comes the turn of the head inspector.. so for another round, you have to repeat the same process of scaling, measuring heights and lengths of the car with him as well for the 2nd time.. this time not only that, he also check if the car is mechanically or physically faulty. he tells you to blink headlights, show if signal lights, parking lights as well as number plate lights are working and then he also gets inside the damn engine and check for oil leaks.. mine had a small oil leaking from the packing, therefore my colour change was not approved and told me to go fix the leak and come.. then the next time you come they once again do the process of inspecting the car 2 times by 2 different inspectors and once again they check if the car is in absolute mint condition like a brand new car. and once again pay 125 bucks and take a receipt and stay in the queue. and if there are no faults then the head inspector gives the approval. then you have to take that approval form to rmv narahenpita with the book, and after few months you get the updated book with the updated information. now i know after you read this you wont ever want to go through a colour change process. i had to go 3 times to get the approval form only. hope this information helps. PS: This is the legal way ok
  8. 7 points
    During the last 6-7 years, the demand(mostly imports) for the Compact Crossover SUVs have been significantly increased in SL car market. This spark was first ignited by the introduction of Honda Vezel making those crossovers popular among Sri Lankans. Most car buyers started to think that having a compact SUV is pretty beneficial when poor roads scraped the underneath of their Premios, Allions and Axios. Another factor is the low engine capacity of these crossover SUVs, which is a nice invitation to the buyers in a country where almost 95% of the petrol vehicles imported have an engine capacity below 1500cc. After sometime the turbocharging craze began with the introduction of Audi Q2, Honda Civic 10th gen and Toyota CHR. With the help of turbocharging, now the power of a 2000-2400cc engine can be extracted from a 1500cc engine. Since then SUVs like CRV started doing the trick. Now most people in SL have lost their faith on the Honda’s i-DCD hybrid system in Vezel, Fit and Grace. So the Mitsubishi Eclipse Cross was born… Overview We all know that as a vehicle manufacturer, Mitsubishi haven’t been much successful during the previous two decades. Even the Lancer was killed from manufacturing. But when it comes to the Eclipse Cross, seems that Mitsubishi is giving a fierce competition towards other similar SUVs in SL market such as the CRV and Vezel(a subcompact crossover SUV). One major thing that the Eclipse Cross stands above the others are the amount of options available throughout the range. On the CRV we have to step up to the top of the range model to get all the options. But with the Eclipse Cross G and G Plus (which are mostly imported to SL) have almost similar amount of options except for the infotainment system with the touch pad in the G Plus variant. What I drove is a 1.5 Turbo/CVT G variant with full time 4WD. When we talk about the exterior design, without a doubt everyone loves the front end design. Its muscular and sharp, but without being overly flashy like the body kit loaded CHRs. When we walk towards the back, we totally forget what the front end looked like. Totally different compared to the front design and for me it looks kind of awful. It looks similar to something like a Honda Insight, but always reminds me of the Pontiac Aztek (what Walter White drives in Breaking Bad) which is regarded as one of the ugliest cars of all time. But here its better than the Pontiac Aztec, nevertheless most people wouldn’t be happy with the back end looks unlike the front end. But for me, the overall design of the CRV is a bit better and looks bigger than the Eclipse Cross. So let’s move to the interior. Interior Here in the photo, it's the G Plus version, which comes with the factory fitted infotainment system Mitsubishis are famous for having cheap and plasticky looking interiors from the past. But here they have a much better interior design. It looks better and richer than what we have seen in the Outlander, which is a bit boring and less attractive with a plain design. The silver inserting with the combination of the piano black plastic panels certainly gives a rich and upmarket feel and for me, it’s the best interior I’ve ever seen from a Mitsu. But remember that those piano black panels are easy to get scratched and attract fingerprints. Dash design of the Eclipse Cross is much sportier than what you get in the CRV, even though CRV with those teak panels looks more premium(but dull) despite the awful placement of the gear shifter. If you plan to bring down one, better to go with a fully loaded one which has done few kilometers in Japan, because adding options such as sunroof and leather seats additionally cost around 400,000 LKR. The driving position is spot on with all the controls are in easy to reach positions. The position feels sporty with the steering wheel setup and the height really gives the confidence and “king of the road” feeling. This design gives you the feeling that everything is wrapped around you. All doors have soft padded armrests and plenty of spaces to store bottles and your stuff. There is a head up display which shows the speed and the digits look a bit small for me. Seats are comfortable with good side support, but they are on a little firm side. Plenty of headroom and legroom are there for all the passengers I never found it lacking space, specially in legroom department. The standard 6 speaker audio system is great when you compare with the systems you get from Toyotas. Has thumping bass (which most owners in SL are looking for) but the vocals are a bit laid off and lacks the top sparkle in the trebles. Overall most people would be in love with the system. You can squeeze out the maximum by installing something like a Pioneer or a Kenwood aftermarket player if you have the G or a lower grade. I haven’t come across the in-built unit with the touch pad in the G Plus unit, but it might be better as Mitsus always had good audio systems (mostly in the bass department) in their vehicles from a long time. I still remember cranking up the volume as a kid in a 16 Sri Mirage till the bass hits the chest. There is a one with a Rockford Fosgate audio system but I haven’t come across that system in the JDM Mitsu site. Thus they give you the option to add premium speakers for front and rear, which might be better. There are few disappointments in the interior. One is the Speedometer and the Tachometer. They have been directly taken out from something that was made in 2007-2008. Looks dated and boring as it doesn’t match with whole interior design. For me the boring to drive Toyotas have better looking meter panels even in the 2007 era. Anyway it’s only a little thing. Another problem that I had to face while driving is the Gear position of the Auto gear shift level. The indicators in the shifter panel seems misaligned with the lever and there was few times I have mistakenly put into the N instead of D after starting the car. Maybe this is because I’ve been used to the gate-type shifters. Other than that I personally don’t like the design on the seats. Looks a bit flashy, something like an Alto. So let’s move onto the part which makes this car really stands out among others.. Driving Simple. Best of both worlds. Most compact crossover SUVs have firm suspension (Vezel owners know what I’m talking about), even though they are less enthusiastic on corners. But here it’s a totally different story. I travelled on some bad roads, climbs and on a stretch. Suspension soaks up most of the potholes and imperfections on bad road while keeping the car without swaying. Comfort wise, it’s on par with cars like Axios and better than Aquas, Fits and Graces. But when you push it to a corner it stays flat without much body roll. On cornering you feel that you have plenty of grip even though it sits high. Another thing is that the car feels rigid on corners. Trust me, you can do some really enjoyable driving from this babe! I mean it has the perfect balance between comfort and handling which is a really tricky job to achieve from an economical car like this, while being a crossover SUV. I drove the CRV and for me it feels a bit choppy on bad roads. Steering is a bit of a let down when you consider with the other characteristics, because of being light and numb. But still, it is sharp. Sometimes I felt that it is not nimble as the Vezel (maybe due to the size). Then the engine. When I drove the CRV for a short distance, I noticed that the power is a bit hesitant on the lower end. But when you put your foot down the engine comes to life. I noticed the laziness in the throttle similar to what you get in a Grace or a Vezel when travelling at low speeds. I also mentioned earlier in this forum about how all the Honda i-DCD hybrid systems feel a bit hesitant to start climbing hills, and surprisingly, even being a non hybrid and a CVT, the CRV also waited a second or two to start climbing the same hill. In the Eclipse Cross, power delivery is flawless and feels punchy throughout SL street legal speed limits. I did floor the throttle for a brief time period and ended up speeding up to 120kmph without breaking a sweat. Power is always on demand and surprisingly I did not experience any issue in the acceleration department like the CRV. So thumbs up for the engine performance. But the car that I drive had the full time all-wheel drive system so there might be some improvement in grip and acceleration levels over the 2WD version. Brakes are okay, without any significant feature to highlight. The vehicle is surprisingly quiet on roads with minimal road noise levels, so you hardly feel the actual speed. When we travel around 60kmph gives the feeling of driving at 40kmph, because of this isolation. There is a slight issue and that’s the engine noise. From the outside, the engine is significantly louder than most of the 1500cc cars like Premios and Axios. The radiator fan kicks in frequently worsening the situation. The engine can also be heard as a slight whirling when traveling with a light foot, which seems as a slight noise because only a little amount of road noise is entered into the cabin. So the engine noise is highlighted. So let’s move onto economy. Economy The fuel figures are a bit like a mixed bag. When the car was brought home from Hambantota, on 92 octane, showed a figure of 12.3 kmpl which is a bit on the lower side. After few days, averaged shrunk to 6-7 kmpl territory on 92. It had 2500km on the clock when it reached home and after the 92 ran out, 95 was pumped. Still the car has rarely left the town, but gives a figure around 8.5 kmpl, which is good for a AWD vehicle. Final Words IMO, I think Mitsu have really done something this time after being out of the track for couple of years. For me, this is the best to drive among CRV and Vezel, with a nice balance between comfort and handling. I have not yet driven the Peugeot 3008, which is considered to have a better interior and better driving experience, but most people in SL would look for a Jap made vehicle. The CRV has a much more bigger and muscular looking exterior plus 7 seats, but the Eclipse Cross is better to drive and more comfier. CRV has a kind of premium looking interior with teak panels, while the Mitsu has a modern looking sporty interior. For owners who are looking for a premium feel, I think they are better off with a CRV while the ones who are looking for a sporty yet comfortable ride might be satisfied with the Eclipse Cross. Also the options like the touch pad navigation system, Head-up displays, panoramic sun roof plus the sporty front end design would like to grab attention of most buyers. Still none of us could comment on reliability department as the vehicle is very new to SL. But I will always recommend this over something like a Premio, Vezel or a CHR for bringing down for the permit, because you get car-like comfort and “go anywhere” ability with the Eclipse Cross. Only downside is the fuel economy, but I think it’s a bit early to comment on the exact figures. Therefore it’s always safer to avoid the 4WD versions. But I personally believe that a person who can afford to bring down such vehicle can handle a bit more cost for the fuel. Thank you for reading!
  9. 7 points
    Hey guys I finally found a car! And a red one at that!
  10. 7 points
    It's been a while since the last entry where I rambled on about the minor details but now for the all important part how does this actually drive. I've done over 5000 Km's now and I guess spend enough time with the car to give my honest feedback on how it handles etc. I'm not going to dwell on the statistics and figures since that is readily available on the internet - but for formalities sake the Civic comes with the P10A2 engine - Honda's 3 cylinder turbo charged engine which has somewhere between 125-130 BHP. So the overall driving experience ? Well it's adequate and after the break-in period it seems the car is actually quite eager than it was initially. There is a bit of turbo lag and coupled with the torque at low revs you feel a bit like driving a diesel ....no complaints though. A question I usually get from some people is whether this model comes with the much maligned DCT - well surprise surprise it does not. Honda have mated the P10A2 with a CVT. Of course there is always the manual and that is actually supposed to be great as per reviews from the UK - but considering I use this car to drive daily to and from work in the colombo traffic I had to be a masochist to opt for a manual (which I'm not - and god bless future me when I try to sell a manual in Sri Lanka ) . Those who have driven the GP5's and Graces know that the Dual clutch set up is actually a blast to drive - which is not the case with the CVT. My previous car also had a CVT gear box and frankly I'm not a fan of them at all. But then given how DCT's fared locally I guess having a rubbery CVT over a DCT setup is not a huge deal. All grades of the FK6 comes with paddle-shifters - now I know it's a bit funny to see paddle shifters and CVT in the same sentence but what the setup actually does is have more of a simulated shifting mechanism going when you use them. When you're in normal 'Drive' mode you can use the shifters to change gears but the car is too eager to override you and kind of spoils the fun. However if you change your gear to 'S' then the HUD will display an 'M' indicating that the car is ready to receive manual input and a blinking indicator also indicates when the time is right to shift up. Of course if you don't shift at the right moment the car will give you some time and after a while will override you. S mode, and the 7-Speed CVT with the shifters is a little fun time to time but I think it's there more as a gimmick to be perfectly honest. I will upload a video on this later on and update the entry. There is an ECO mode which can be enabled/disabled by a switch on the gear shifter console. Turning off the Eco mode will give you a more fun driving experience as the car is much more peppier. For more fun on an open road shift to S and use the shifters. I use the E03 expressway daily and that's where this car really feels home at. I mentioned the low end torque - around 2250 RPM there is a sweet spot and you can feel that pull. Due to it's dynamics the car feels very well planted and very stable at high speeds. You just feel the car hugging the road and hurtling forward - which is a really nice feeling. The handling is quite good -the steering is a little lifeless but adequately sharp and the ride is very controlled. I drive an SR which does not have the adaptive damper system found on the EX. The ride is generally smooth even with some potholes - though I cannot give any feedback about the rear since I've never actually traveled in the back seat. Road noise is something I've always associated with Honda's and once again this is no exception though the road noise insulation is comparatively better than that of smaller cars like the Fit. But it does a good job of cutting out the racket from that noisy 3 pot engine - which believe me is quite loud and rough when you actually open the hood and take a look. But inside the car it's generally quiet. To sum it up ... Cars with downsized engines for the sake of reducing emissions and improving gas-mileage are not meant to be fast performance cars in the first place. But Honda have tried to give the driver a bit of feel-good factor with the fake air vents and the paddle shifters and the overall 'sporty' feel. I wish it didn't have the CVT gear box and the steering was a little less lighter. But the noisy little 3 pot engine pulls really well given it's size and the weight of the car. The 1L Turbo Civic is no Type R but for a bird with clipped wings it flies pretty well. And now for the FAQ Section ---------------------------------------------------- [1] "Nice car bro how does it do on fuel ? " : I drive in generally bad traffic I wouldn't claim it to be the worst since I don't travel to areas like Rajagiriya/Dehiwala etc. And the car returns around 7-8 KMPL. On general I get about 10 KMPL in a 50-50 City/Suburban drive. On the Expressway I get around 6L/100Km which means about 16.6 KMPL. On the average long distance drive on non expressways depending on the time of the day the car will do between 12-16 KMPL. [2] "The car is a bit low isn't it? " : One fear I had earlier about the car before purchase is it's low ground clearance - somehow I have found it to be ok so far. I recently traveled on one of the most horrible roads I have seen in the western province - it was a tiny impossibly narrow dirt road with immense pot holes and pieces of rock jutting out leading to an almost forgotten home for the senior citizens where we had to give dinner. It was a hellish drive in pitch darkness but somehow i got through without a single scrape. For a better understanding I will try to upload some daytime pics of the said road. [3] "Aren't the back seats a bit cramped?" Leg-space wise no. There's quite a lot of leg space . The thing is due to the curved shape of the roof some may feel that head-space is a bit lacking. The only person to complain so far was my 6'3" /125Kg cousin. So unless you're some behemoth you are OK. Having said that I must say the Civic is a little too driver oriented with a lot of care given to the driver and lesser focus to the passengers: for instance the seat height adjustment is not available for the front passenger. It's a little darker in the back too.
  11. 6 points
    Toyota Vitz 2016 2017 till 19 Well I’m not going to get too technical or sound like the fan club here But it’s a long story. Despite being a popular car, it’s a very bland machine, but has its perks Hence they are like the cockroaches of the current car scene. The car is so popular at the moment that I have seen 2 instances unregistered cars were exchanged for money for the market value and for lands, for debts etc. between businessmen as they considered the vitz to be equal to money in the bank. Well as for my Vitz tale, I purchased a car, yes full cash deal, wife went crazy over it, found the mileage was tampered Raised hell, returned the car, cash refunded got another car used it for 3months, saw a better car being imported , exchanged mine a small loss during the whole sales dip this year, got the new car cheap. so lost a few, gained a few. So tasted both waters 2016 and post facelift 2019 So the popular grades in Sri Lanka are the F and Fm being the entry level , not heard of a U grade car, There is a Gr or an Rs here, not sure and a proper Hybrid Yaris from Australia with a known gent The F has a Start stop model, with a pretty led display and rpm gauge Fm has no power Mirrors and has window winders in the back, and no rear wiper Mostly all these are 1000cc 1KR powered Lesson learnt, Do a through check on auction records prior to purchase of a car, I caught my cars issue through the Jevic reading, it had done 88000km, 2 auction sheets one with the altered odo and the other with the real odo, car read 34000 odd km, and boy it looked new, brand new My trusty mechanic couldn’t tell it was run either. Tyres matched blah blah, they played the game well, do note I will not reveal the seller as post conflict he took the car and refunded every cent, only thing I lost there was about a week of my time. So the vitz is a properly beat up car in Japan, so most here are too good to be true, heavily run. Always secondly go for a Toyota Lanka Inspection even if it’s a car off the factory, just to be safe Exterior Well the basic frame and shape has been here since the 2011 model, but is the 1000cc tax cut that made these models common here, it’s a good looking layout true, Personally I feel the 2016 model looked better and the 2017 odd models look like a scary grandma on the front, the rear looks cool, Especially if you got the led package, it looks like an audi, Headlights are either h4 halogen, horrible or the lovely leds with auto dipping and levelling. The styles are different with the years Also the bumpers are far more securely fastened in the 2017 facelift models but still they tend to hang front and rear both after going in our pillaged roads. So for those with that ocd, it’s never ending, I have it and I know, took apart 3 bumpers, the clips are pristine, the bulk of the bumper and humping the pot holes make them warp a few mm, so u have a noticeable panel gap on the sides. The tail gate is very well thought after, they open with like minimal protrusion from the bumper length, maybe 1 foot at most, and doors open very wide, and easily, handles and mirrors are shared across the whole Toyota line. Mirrors are kinda wide for a small car, so they ding up easy. Remember to buy a few extra lights. Interior, again no ,major difference between the 2016 and post facelift model, just a change in colour schemes, grey to gloss black, jewela had the fancy colors The 2015 model the air vents were different, thereafter they landed with axio style propeller like vents, which break very easy, Do note the multifunction wheel buttons are original in the car only if it has the 6 speaker sound system. The swap is very easy, 20min job cost about 10000lkr, but with Chinese parts, the replacement Chinese ribbons last only few 1000km and show airbag lights. Oem parts cost 80000 odd (may vary) the 6 speaker (tweeter) Seats, Nicely contoured, bit hard, bland fabrics, front headrests are sown into the seat bulk up to the f grades, there are many variations on the vitz line, so nothing is certain. Dealer level upgrades and variations as well There is space, even when you are 120kg The double din gap and the steering wheel I find well designed and well placed, giving it a bit of a dynamic vibe, the rest of the dash is like the designer sketched the aqua dashboard in a hurry. The gauge cluster in the f grade is really dated but does it’s thing ok, nothing to be happy there unless you get the f smart stop or a bigger engine. Most cars here do not have climate control, despite it being fossil parts, it works well, keeps the region cool, yes you loose a bit of low end power and ears hurt a bit more. Light colored roof liner, headrests in the rear, typical Toyota stuff. Leg room is ideal for the size, The door cards and dashboard remind you of a plastic dustbin though, they scratch like a lottery and love dust. Cargo area, quite large actually. Can accommodate the luggage of like 4, seats 4 easy, if you go 5 you gotta be closely related and malnourished. Below the cargo deck there is either a useless puncture kit or a space saver wheel, kit varies with car so I suggest a spare wheel. The jack is hidden under the drivers seat, not in the tray, so note that before your curse the fellow who stole the jack during a puncture Engine and drivetrain Yea so the 1000cc agony, no turbo. No isg, just groaning with the cvt box, Well it pulls, after a while, and if you floor it, it can keep up the guy who overtook you for going too slow and showed you the finger, and if you keep flooring it it can shift down and pass him. It’s just slow to respond, but certainly not a crawler, but no race car either. It’s just enough for traffic, feels brisk between 30kmph and 100kmph, thereafter it just sits. It’s the noise, it’s not like this huge engine revving noise, this is like a blown exhaust, leaking cat or a cow giving birth, something, loud and agonizing, the accelerator pedal is very flimsy, no feel, the car responds late to throttle, thereby it’s like asking a question and waiting for an answer. The vibration is more prominent on the 2016 models, the 2017 onwards ones have a completely different gel mount, we ll get to know more as the cars age. They’ve gone really stingy on the sound proofing on the f grade, so it’s like only 50% sound proof thanks to the engine. Cold starts give you the creeps, it’s that noisy, Reminds you of a 90s elf. So in Japan cars come with 0w20 oil, here Toyota recommends 10w30, there’s 5w30 as well so pick your poison, parts are cheap, the oil change costs between 10k to 16k depending on the joint, with genuine parts and synthetic oil. Approx 3.2l You shouldn’t be driving a car if you don’t know the intervals, Tip- almost all new jdm cars have a sticker under the hood, with oil change spec, so start translating oil change costs like 16k, agents can handle and recommended, at 40000km PCV valves get clogged easily, so keep an eye, same goes for the throttle body. So there are many variants of the 1KR engine, this having the 1KR Fe, The competition, Wigo and the Perodua cars have variants, so if interested dive in, https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_KR_engine The drive, The suspension Well this is why this thing sells so much. The handling is really nice, feels a bit like a hot hatch (before you start cursing just the HANDLING) , but there is zero compromise on the comfort, it’s sedan matching comfort in a cheap hatch, in local context that’s my bottom line here. Road noise is very poorly insulated, has the pathetic dying bird horn, Usually the 14 tyres are chunky, so manage to cushion even more, The ground clearance is PATHETIC, so unless careful, it rubs everywhere, a good option is to fit mudflaps, they make a noise so you won’t bottom it out suddenly The front lip is more or less a sacrificial element, or a painters monthly allowance if you are conscious about the car They have had no concern on driveways and steep descents when they sketched that. As I write this, my car has been parked for 2 weeks as they’ve started meddling with the road. It can manage long journeys with comfort if you have a good stereo and if you drive “Normal” Do note road presence is less, so from biker to bus driver, no one gives a damn and tend to abuse you, being the small car slogan now. Turning radius is like a bicycle, so cops will start to smile while they write you up when you do that illegal U turn Fuel economy is like 11kmpl in traffic, my first Vitz did 18kml in the highway, yet to test the new car, 92Oc is specced, Toyota Safety Sense Impressive bit of tech here, extremely intelligent, doesn’t try to kill you, warns many times before braking, lane Change assist, auto wipers and headlights work very well, I’m sure the high beam algorithm was programmed by a very polite Japanese gent as it never sets high beams, even when it’s needed, good stuff. Pointers not to get yourself screwed Carry a spare wheel Do not go off road, steep slopes and avoid bigger potholes, and rocks on the road, you will feel the impact on your groin and pain on the wallet. If you do well you ll need a new sump or a bellhousing Don’t over load the car. Try to upgrade to factory multifunction steering, or don’t 92 is enough Jewela is just a trim level, gaudy with chrome Avoid FM models, they are like lorries, and used for mostly cargo and deliveries all over Mileage is almost always faux, get a personal import or a TL verified car Or just be very very very thorough, jump all the hoops when buying one. And pray it’s a good one. If you need help with auction sheets, ask It may burn a bit of oil after 50000km ish, Use genuine parts. It’s a crazy platform, we get a boring variant, like that cousin who became an accountant when the others are cardiologists, astronauts and rock stars Overall it’s a good car, not that refined, reliable, old time true tested stuff.
  12. 6 points
    Update: 11 years and 08 months in service, 125,855km done. First cut & polish job done. I was seeking a reliable person with good workmanship and patience. I noted one gentleman at Delpe Junction, Ragama and kept my eye on his jobs for last two months and noted that he is the person I was seeking. Clearly asked him not to touch lamps, and cover all the necessary parts including all beading. (I had bad experience with cut and polish job done with my previous Viva Elite. They spoiled beading a lot) . Also asked him to cut and polish inner cavities of the Alloy wheels as that area is a painted area already became dirty. Gentleman was asking two complete days (he works alone) and Rs.9,000/= for the job. But I was so happy after seen the result and paid Rs.10,000/= him appreciating his quality service. I can recommend this gentleman Mr. Sanjaya Kumara at 071-7156263 & 071-7906869 for a good job . (Hope this will not violate any forum rules) Here you go latest update.
  13. 6 points
    Vagina eke light wada lu...
  14. 6 points
    Already 2 years completed under my ownership and odo is now 123,500km. Sorry for not updating the thread for a while. No special maintenance work carried out within the period, other than replacing the battery and few bulbs. Saturday I had some troublesome experience at Kandy. I could not shift gear from “P” to other positions. Immediately contacted Mr.Sisira Kumara (Service Advisor at Unit#d Mot#rs) and gentleman was very kind to help me over the phone giving instructions as follows, even it was a holiday for him. (1) Press the button on gear knob and check for some free play when it press. (2) If so, use shorter screw driver and remove two screws on gear knob. (Long screw driver cannot use here due to placement of CD changer) (3) Pull the knob up and then you can see white colour small plastic parts falling down. (Brittle) (4) Remove gear knob and now you can press the middle rod by your finger and can shift gears . So I could manage to bring the vehicle to Colombo without a trouble. The issue was due to damaged and ruptured Gear Shift Sleeve. It is a white colour plastic sleeve looks like a roll plug. Mitsubishi part number is MR581866 (Sleeve, Gear) and cost was Rs.1,109/=. Hence this sleeve replace and problem solved.
  15. 5 points
    2019 Suzuki Hustler Review Though I had to let it go, this little vehicle made a huge impact on my life, during a difficult time It deserves a review, it was that good, Exterior Well it’s like this, some like it, some don’t, and I didn’t at first We had lost almost 2 mil after buying a leaf, into depreciation, so in retaliation this was the only Reasonable thing I could afford in its place. So giving into my dads idea I did bring her home, It was red with a black roof, on those puny steel rims With time I decided to bin the cute look and make it look a bit macho, Found a set of Suzuki rims, off a sedan, 0.5jj larger making it 5.5jj and increased the tyre size, I’m sure I gained at least 3 to 4 cm in clearance. Added a set of tiny low cop radar led fog lights, as I was frequently traveling to hill stations at the time, and a reverse fog as well. Had to make do with an ornamental roof rack, few carbon fiber wrap work, and matte black paint on the wheels Loud little Hella Horn was fitted as well, window visors, made a little runt of an suv, 2 door of course lol. The factory styling, mine was a G grade, none of the J style bling, but had the fancy led headlights with halos, believe me they turn on when you unlock the car, like a beamer! It was a matte black village, every exterior plastic was matte to give that off road intent, had a small sill trim that extended up to wheel arches as well, Rear bumper was again no nonsense, wrapped very close to the body, with a nice trim in the middle, The bumpers seat very high on these, almost showing off the tyres, giving this rock crawler vibe It was one confused car, The interior, It has this tiny Dox matrix display in the gauge cluster, shows little videos of a hustler going places, adds to the cheer, has a hidden menu, of course in Japanese, has many settings to play with. This is shadowed by the huge speedo, which is the only thing in there Again heavily influenced by the FJ cruiser, painted plastics, very solid gloss, no play, some panels had a miniature chequer plate pattern, to add, 2 glove boxes and one with a kg mark to allow you to place a laptop, There is no center floor console, like on those ancient suvs, one can walk across the driver and passenger areas, upon folding the tiny armrest. Which has a tiny hidden compartment as well. It came with a Chinese head unit, Which I intended to replace but never got the chance, however I installed front and rear cams, for show obviously, as it has so many large windows for its size, you feel like you are in an aquarium, I used to get murdered by my wife for looking at younger models you know! It felt so revealing that I had the 4 door shutters heavily tinted and was cursed by my dad repeatedly when he drove it in the night. It had these tiny quarter windows which I left untinted, cops can get a glimpse of inside, thereby had zero issues! I did manage to upgrade the front speakers with kenwood 2 way speakers, rear door speakers were not there, so did a retrofit of the same, also mounted a set of hertz tweeters to the factory slots, All into the factory wiring. I mean there was nothing marvelous with the sound proofing, but it held the sound well, just enough for usual radio and Bluetooth audio, Mine didn’t have the multi-function steering or cruise control, Auto headlights were ok, self leveling very useful here and there, The space, that is what it was, that tall boy design, it was like a room inside rear seats move back, compromising inside luggage space, but leg room and headroom, again basically a room for 4 No contours on the seats, making them flat, nice pattern, but hard, and waterproof.. Apparently it was designed to have a makeshift bed at any given time, the front passenger seat has a adhered table on the back, so upon folding flat forwards it can be a table. If you do the same with the corresponding rear set, you have a 6 foot is platform, which Suzuki calls a bed, and gosh the accessories they have for this car, 6 brochures! Being a kei , rear cargo room is scarce, but redeemable with angry passengers with less leg room. The luggage area is again heavily cladded with the same mini chequer plate plastic, giving it this premium suv boot feel, and it has these flaps that adjust accordingly to leave a flat surface, Below this deck, you get a rigid foam pack, with the tyre kit, And yes you can fit a 15” space saver in a hustler, matter of sliding the rear seats forward Pull out the foam pack, hide it under your bed, slide the wheel in, then pull the seats back, leg room is reduced by a tiny amount, no one notices it either, the seat tugs the rubber and it is held firmly in. The flaps cover the wheel, and you have the luggage space. It has a nice roof liner, light color, easy to clean, and 2 tIny dome lights Even a 12v socket in the very back , suv cues all over. Rear foot wells are flat, you can basically open the doors and blow the grit away, front may need a vacuum but can survive with a brush, Sadly the hustler comes with a plush oem carpet set, mine were stolen at port, Engine and drivetrain, Well yea with 660cc, cvt and no turbo, one would say it was slow, The difference is the ISG, that thing manages to hold the revs up like an electric turbo, thereby it’s not slow, wagon R owners have told me the hustler is faster, probably the ecu tune as everything else is the same, besides the body and suspension which is entirely different, The 3 cyl engine was a bit noisy, but no vibrations, and idle stop worked with the isg, thereby no start motor noises, it just instantly kicked the engine in The hustler never had the adjuster issue as the engine bay is crazy well shielded from below, unless you wake up from a coma and hose the engine bay no issue there, the gearbox feels fine, just a continuous drive, I mean not fast but no jerks, manages hills easy. Well below the passenger seat on the front, the hybrid battery lives, more or less a house of capacitors, hence why It can be repaired easily. Never had any issues, charged up fully and discharged as well, The fuel economy, I used 92, it was as per spec, it did 20kmpl at most given times, with idle stop off The drive, Well this is the sole reason why I decided to write this review, The drive feels really nice, composed, firm, tad bit of body roll, bumpy suspension Handles very well, It was genuinely fun, going to nuwara Eliya to Kandy In it, it was a memorable trip, climbs are nothing, I mean it doesn’t sprint up but 30 to 40kmh it scoots on, It’s on bad roads and muddy roads that the whole wannabe suv thing comes to play, it has amazing grip and ground clearance, feels like a true off roader, mine was not 4wd either Where I live the roads are being constantly raped by various govt projects, the workers used to smile when I go about in the hustler as it just skips over mud and ruts they pillage on the road, the floor Pan is flat, so it can fair really well, my dad accidentally parked it on the first stair at my local bank, approach angle that crazy! Those tiny wipers do a great job cleaning off mud and rain, What I don’t like, Very little in fact, The smart key, makes a complete fool of the car, tried both keys, halfway across the commutes the car starts looking for the key, so once I flash it near the start button it shuts up, changed many batteries, it’s inherent. The base carpet is very cheap, and easy to tear, they’ve used a heap of ridged foam to make the floor flat, basically every footwell has a ridged foam insert, if you spill it’s going to seep way down, And yea a drunk friend spilt a beer, finally had to take all 4 seats apart and put a nice carpet to cover everything, this helped with the road noise too, a style carpet that was intended for the Kdh. The safety system – sheer hate If a bus overtakes you, the car decides to stop, simple as that, stop in such a way that you , your passengers and the guy tailgating you; all to have a heart attack, no buzzer warnings Also it has this great love for bikers, almost with pure emotion. Does anything to spare a bike, even whilst sacrificing its own butt to the route bus or yoghurt lorry , as we’ve all seen on videos. And seeing the bikers we have here, all the adventurous stunts they perform the only solution is to reach for the auto brake off switch. The 12v battery, the electronics and start stop system really strangle the 12v lump, you ll need one every year, a safe measure would be to turn off idle stop, as it reduces engine. Wear Overall, I really do miss the car, it was a joy in the city, can park in a 3 wheeler space, large doors, easy to climb in and out, extremely easy to clean and wash, nippy on the lights, very unassuming yet also gets a lot of attention. Almost regret the sale, but life is too short to drive a single car. TIPS IF YOU WANNA BUY ONE YOU CAN NEVER JUMP START 92 is enough, Buy the highest grade you can, Below 30000 to 50000km is the safest Get the one with the led headlights, Check the roof, black roofs flake paint easy, thin metal meaning they rot the same. Check the mileage usual blah, auction sheets, Make sure the battery is in the car before you purchase it, or clear it from port If there is a yellow blinking light continuously, indicates charging system fault so first replace the 12v battery, if it doesn’t go away means isg or battery failure. Run Check the tyres, the oem Dunlop enasaves don’t last long, sidewalls bubble in months Those steel rims are not that strong, a big pothole can warp them, fellas are selling them by the dozen after this, buy alloys, not those I suggest maintenance at A*W, they know the car in and out, and use the 5w30 Castrol synthetic oil, change at 10000km, 0w-20 is too thin for our temperatures , up to you Please Use genuine parts, Never physically leave your car at the agent or any mechanic, the hybrid battery internals can be removed in 5min with 2 tools and will fit in a pocket, Buy a spare wheel Brake pads need replacement every 20000 to 30000 km Rear liners 60000km Be careful when leaving parked, They can’t be harvested like wagon R s but mirror covers and the mirror plate are stolen like any car. Whole mirror assembly can’t be removed as the bolts are inside unlike the wagon R Parts are rare and expensive, especially the 4 lights, worse if led. 175x65x15 tyres will fit the oem 165x60x15 and will have no rub issues, no big speedo error. Learn how to use google translator Join the wagon r and hustler fb pages.
  16. 5 points
    All mechanical work on the project Moggie will discuss here. This was the differential original status. Cleaned & painted differential Back brake liners were wet with leaked differential oil because of weak oil seals. Found matching oil seal from local market and hope it will fix the leaking. Cleaned & painted brake shoes with newly applied liners. Cleaned and painted leaf springs Present status
  17. 5 points
    I've sort of been off the grid for a few weeks because of so many personal matters including moving house and what not. Finally found the time to post this. Meet the newest addition to our family. A 2003 Mazda 323 Astina SP20 BJ-II J48. Wait what?? Let me break down each part of that... It's a 2003 Mazda 323 (JDM version is known as "Familia"). I guess that's pretty clear. "Astina" is the name used for the hatch. The sedan is called the "Protege" (Remember the Mazdaspeed Protege anyone? 😍) SP20 is the top of the range model with a 2.0L FS engine (131 horses), sports suspension, different body styling, white gauge cluster, automatic AC etc. BJ is the series. BJ-II (BJ2) is the facelift version. J48 is the very last revision of the BJ series. I was on the lookout for a car to be used as a point A to B car and to be driven on a daily basis to the train station etc. I didn't want it to be boring, hence the SP20. I wanted it to be a small hatch so that my wife can easily drive it (she finds the RalliArt a bit too intimidating due to the power). It was between The 323 and Lancer CS VR-X. Gave up on the Lancer after seeing the options on the Mazda and how popular and rare the SP20 is (sounds like blasphemy I know). After about a month of hunting down one, finally found this beautiful example in Titanium Grey, just 139,000km (remember, we are talking about Australia here and that is a really low mileage). The icing on the cake is that I even got it with 1 year dealer warranty (car had been a trade-in). Of course there's signs of age - a few scratches here and there, wheel paint flaking off, front rotors need to be replaced etc. But it certainly is a zippy little car that's fun to drive. Nardi Torino steering! White gauge cluster The different front end with large fog lights. The FS engine. Note the factory fitted strut bar. I've not seen bonnet and headlight protectors in Sri Lanka, but the car has them installed from the dealership. So the headlights are like brand new -no yellowing. A couple of the SP20 stickers are faded. I've ordered a new set already.
  18. 5 points
    Greetings guys, It’s been a while and I have Few updates to report. Replaced Rear tires- As confirmed before I wanted to use Bridgestone potenzas. Checked with autodrome and few other places, But damn those babies are expensive. Hence had to settle with a pair of Nankang Sports NS-20 (225/45/R18). Can not complain or compare as anyway I am riding low profile which makes me aware of slightest bumps/Pat holes on the road. These were the only affordable ones I could find to fit my wallet.( if you are wondering it cost me 47k for the 2 tires which includes Wheel balancing and alignment). Ac was blowing hot air- At first I thought it could be a leak in the system. Hence recharged the system and performed a through inspection through a professional. No leaks were found. However I am keeping an eye and Will monitor in the coming months. Brakes were making a squeaking noise in cool temperature- as I suspected front brake pads were showing their age and brake pads were replaced. No more shouting!! What good is an update without any pics? Taken from a few road trips that I went and some in my neighborhood. Enjoy Cheerz!!
  19. 5 points
    I own an Axio 141 (2007) with a 135,000km. So here are some of my knowledge on engine tune up which I've learnt on YouTube & forums along with the experience on my car. Tune up is a maintenance to make the car run RIGHT. Which is to increase performance, fuel efficiency & to reduce future repairs. 1. Changing engine oil. Change ur engine oil every 5,000 to 6,000 km. Always remeber engine oil is cheap but engine repairs are very expensive. I use 'Mobil 2000, semi synthetic 5W30' apprx 3.3 litres. I buy oils & filters at Panchikawatta (Mobil 2000 oil 1L 1200/=, VIC oil filter 1,000, toyota air filter 3,500 & cabin air filter 1,000) and i change it at a service centre for just 500/=. This way i save around 3,000 to 5,000 if i had it done at a service centre. 2. Oil additives. I've added Liqui Moly 'Ceratec' to my engine on my last oil change after lots of research on YouTube & reviews so i used abt 3.1 litres of 5W30 + 190ml of ceratec. I was pretty happy & satisfied with the results. Engine started to run alot smoother & quiter (less vibration even when starting a cold engine, quite idle plus my fuel economy has improved). This costs 3,600 yet its a long term investment which its effects might last upto another 3 or 4 oil changes. I highly recommend. 3. Filters. Its very important to change ur filters at the right intravels for optimal performance. Use OEM filters. Dont buy cheap oil & air filters to save money. Change ur oil filter on every oil change intravel and ur air filters if their dirty. Cz clean air filters helps to breathe clean uninterrupted air to the engine in return it gives performance & good fuel economy. Next is ur cabin air filter. Its very cheap so that u can change it at every oil change intravels for a cleaner A/C. 4. Throttle body & MAF sensor. This is a very simple DIY maintenance to improve cars fuel efficiency, performance & engine tune though many forgets. Just buy a Throttle body cleaner spray and a MAFS cleaner/Contact cleaner would cost 2,500 for both or less. There are plenty of videos on YouTube so plz refer before starting. Do the cleaning on every oil change intravels for keep ur car at its optimal performance. Trust me it will make a great improvement. 5. Fuel system. I've had very good experience of using Liqui Moly Injection cleaner (900/=) poured directly in to the fuel tank. Had noticeable changes in throttle response & a smoother idle with increase in fuel economy along with internally it helps to clean fuel injectors & more (I've used it before i add the ceratec so i know it made a difference, hence now with ceratec i see the same differances without it so i knw ceratec works good too! But to clean ur fuel system this cleaner would definitely helps). I suggest it to use it on ur every oil change or as the company suggests to use every 2,000km. But all i can say is that it works! 6. Spark plugs. Just check ur spark plugs at a service centre. Usually they lasts from 50k to 100k km depending on the driving conditions. So change them if needed. It only cost around 2,000 per spark plug. Hense bad spark plug means poor performance & bad fuel consumption. I changed & the results were just amazing. 7. Others. Good tyres. Tyre pressure. Coolant. Wheel alignment. Hope these would help. Good luck
  20. 5 points
    You are choosing ONE car -it could be a 27-year old japanese car, 8-year old indian car, 15-year old European car or whatnot. What you should be worried about, is that specific car. Not whether it is Japanese or Indian or Andromedian. Keep your options open. Assess a few cars and buy the one that would be in the best condition. Don't worry whether it is Japanese or Indian or Andromedian. However, in my experience, Ford Lasers hold on to their build quality far better than most other cars, even after they age. One reason could be because your average penny-pinching gamey goday person goes for Toyotas most of the time.
  21. 4 points
    Mass suicides will be reported in Sri Lanka, on the day the premio goes out of production.
  22. 4 points
    1. No 2. Under normal operating conditions No. (e.g. you correct the wheels straight after parking). It can cause the system to overheat and go to fail-safe mode under abnormally high usage (e.g. my wife trying to practice parking for an hour for the driving test and coming back home confused saying "the steering stopped working all of a sudden and steering eka galak wage una").
  23. 4 points
    Is there a way to find whether the cockpit room panels are digital or analog, before reserve air tickets ?
  24. 4 points
  25. 4 points
    Friends, one of my colleagues is searching a Toyota sedan. He was new to vehicles and he was respecting one mechanic known to him. That mech fellow told our guy that "Toyota Gorilla" is a good car and find one.....:). He is now chasing after me to find that.....:). Is there anything such Toyota Gorilla released around 2006 ~ 2009? Don't know whether these guys referring to Corolla or something.....:)
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