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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/26/2019 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Old question, adding an answer for future reference. The most common issues of Nissan Neo-Di engines (QG18DD, QR20DD, QR25DD, VQ25DD, VQ30DD ...etc.) are: 1. Faulty injectors which are fail to hold the pressure. Cleaning injectors are completely useless on these engines. 2. High pressure fuel pump failure due to leaking seals inside the pump or low fuel pressure due to worn plungers. 3. High fuel pressure due to a blocked or faulty fuel regulator. Hard starting after warm up, uneven idle, increased fuel consumption and performance issue are the symptoms of these fuel system issues. These issues can be easily identified by looking at fuel trim data and fuel pressure through a scanner. Normal fuel pressure on a QR engine is 6.00MPa at idle and 10 to 11.00MPa at 2500RMP. The pressure should be relief after shutting down the engine. If the fuel regular is blocked, it will be hard to start or throw the error P1232. In your case what was the issue with the pump? Low fuel pressure, high fuel pressure or mechanically failed fuel pump (leaking oil, - gasoline separation seals are mixing gasoline with oil or worn plungers)? You have to diagnose the issue correctly and order a pump online if it's faulty. Look in Russian federation. PS: If you have carbon fouled spark plug or more, it indicates that the injectors are leaking and need to be replaced. If you notice a strong gasoline smell from the oil filler neck, while warming up, that indicates a faulty fuel pump seal. Loss of power may indicate pressure issues.
  2. 1 point
    If it's a plastic centre cap, why not fabricate a couple of metal clips and rivet to the centre cap itself? This way you don't need to drill the rim. If you do it properly, you can even sink the rivet into the plastic of the centre cap and then put some filler on top of it and paint the centre cap so that the rivet is hidden. The metal clips be easy to make out of thin sheet metal and bent to catch the back of the rim like the plastic clips do. I'd just steer clear of drilling the rim. It's probably not going to cause any balancing issues because you're drilling close to the axle, so the radius is too low for the rivet or screw to cause a lot of linear force. However, the integrity of the rim might be compromised the moment you drill it.
  3. 1 point
    Just adding some information to an old thread because I assume that this will be useful for someone in future. Most of Nissan gasoline engines (QG15DE, QG18DE, QG18DD, QR20DE, QR20DD, QR25DE, QR25DD, VQ...etc.) uses timing chains and no need to follow the 100,000km service inteval unless they are giving issues. But, generally it will start giving issues after 200,000km (depends on the maintenance). Over the time, chain will be stretched couple of millimeters and cause timing issues. Of course chains are not stretching; what happens is links of the chain wears and increases the gap. Finally we have a stretched chain. Most common symptoms of a stretched chain are: 1. Rattle at start-up (faulty tensioner, oil filter which isn't holding pressure or a faulty chain guide also can be the culprit) 2. Loss of power. 3. Idle issues and stalling. 4. Cam, P0340 and crank, P0335 codes will be thrown even after changing sensors. 5. Random misfire or primary ignition failure P1320. Those are the most common symptoms of Nissan's stretched timing chain. The most accurate way to diagnose a stretched timing chain is through an oscilloscope by checking CAM and Crank signals. This may be hard procedure in here? I don't know. The easiest way to diagnose is by removing valve cover or timing chain inspection lid and looking at the main tensioner. If the tensioner piston has came out more than 10mm, then you have a stretched timing chain. Newly installed timing chain won't allow the tensioner piston come out more than 5mm. Finally, changing the timing chain is bit difficult and expensive repair (over 25k depends on the engine and parts quality). You have to remove the timing chain cover on QG series and you have to remove both the timing chain cover and lower part of the sump on QR series because the QR series engine has an extra small chain and tensioner to drive the balancer unit. This repair procedure includes changing two chains, two tensioners , two guides, crank and exhaust cam sprocket. By following proper service intervals and recommend oils, this system will last longer.
  4. 1 point
    Keep the addition to a minimum, ie, aluminium rivet.
  5. 1 point
    If its not a rare wheel, center caps can be bought cheap in some alloy wheel joints or online, which is far easier If they are Chinese / Taiwan rims there is a tendency to crack or start to peel off the chrome or lacquer finish once you drill it Yes it will have a near negligible effect on the on the balancing.
  6. 1 point
    Thank you very much for taking the time to type a lengthy reply! Now you’ve got me thinking if a more powerful engine is a good idea at all due to the design limitations of the chassis! What are your thoughts on having a frame reinforcement done before throwing in a newer engine? Also, I think this has a T50 gearbox, (I could be wrong and I need to take a closer look at it in any case) but if it is, it should be good to go with a 4age, shouldn’t it? I plan to keep the styling minimal and close to stock as much as possible and not destroy the car 😁, but I’m thinking wider jdm wheels because I can’t stand the look of these flimsy tyres. (It’s probably a phase and maybe I’ll outgrow it!) If I’m putting in a new engine, I plan on getting a compatible LSD diff, but let’s see. Suspension and brake upgrades are right at the top of the list. Again, google is my tutor and I’m thinking aftermarket stuff like D2, Gecko or maybe eibach (if it’s not going to break the bank). The interior seems to be original and I’ll share some pics so that you gents can decide. Please disregard the “Thing” on the steering wheel! Thank you very much for kicking off the replies and also the referrals! The alien bits are going to the landfill ASAP. Keeping it simple and close to stock is what I plan on doing. Thanks again! Cheers mate!
  7. 1 point
    Only person who can answer this particular question is this guy: If you want an answer from anyone in AL forum, be specific about your questions.
  8. 1 point
    Mazda BJ5W - Famila SW( Sports-Wagon), would be a decent choice too. Handles great.
  9. 1 point
    My vote is for the Jimny. You see a lot more around in that era than the mini Pajero resulting in more parts and stuff. I think it’s also more capable off toad and more reliable.
  10. 1 point
    So I just completed my second oil change at the agent (Boralesgamuwa) and got them to use Castrol Edge Pro A5 5W-30 instead of their regular semi synthetic 5W-30. Cost me approximately 15k for the oil alone. The owner’s manual should dictate what type of oil you should use. In mine, it indicates either 5W-30 or 0W-30 ACEA A5 or A3 oil. For 0W-20, it states that only Honda Engine Oil Type 2.0 should be used so I didn’t adventure down that path since the agent didn’t have it anyways. For everyone else tuned in and following my lovely experiences with the agents, I had a good 10min conversation with the service advisor about the type of oil they use in the newer Civics. He went on to state that: 1) Honda UK don’t know about SL climates and service intervals, so you have to change your oil every 5k km here or before if the maintenance minder indicates it regardless of the type of oil 2) In their history, they’ve always used semi-synthetic oil and it has never caused any problems - he claimed 3) It’s only when customers ask for fully synthetic that they have problems especially sludge build-up, however that is the customer’s wish I found points 2 and 3 a bit naive especially since you need better quality oil and not Dino oil for higher performance engines where oil pressures are significantly higher than before. Semi-synthetic may have worked with the older cars that weren’t turbo-boosted. These newer ones have a tiny 3-cylinder engine with a turbo and temperatures are definitely way hotter than the previous generations. Secondly, with regards to sludge, that will happen when you switch to synthetic in a car with a few 10’s of thousands of km’s running on conventional or semi-synthetic. That’s because fully synthetic oil cleans up better and is a detergent oil so all that sludge that was collected in between piston rings, cylinder heads, etc. will start to come loose and result in sludge. Got this info off Scotty Kilmer and he is in line with debunking the myth a lot of mechanics spread: “fully synthetic oil causes sludge”. By the way, I also asked them about a particular part on my car that I’d need replacing and they admitted that they don’t bring down many parts for the UK model Civic to SL regularly so they’d have to back-order. That’s contrary to what their sales rep said prior to purchasing the car though. All in all, I’m just going to follow the maintenance minder for services as it has proven itself smart enough for now. And of course, will continue with fully synthetic 5w-30.
  11. 1 point
    Yes Sure. Cost for the Labor + chemicals used to clean the engine = 37300 Overhaul kit = 14000 Timing Chain = 11900 Ring Set = 8800 Timing Tensioner = 2900 Timing Adjuster 1 = 5450 Timing Adjuster 2 = 4100 Biggen bearing set = 2350 Main bearing set = 3750 Trust Bearing set = 1700 Engine oil 8 Liters + filter = 4570
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    Parts are cleaned and ready to resemble with new Genuine Toyota Parts.
  14. 1 point
    Hi Guys, We have an update on the issue. My friend decided to rebuild the engine. I though this information will have a value for the forum users. Total damage will be around 85K. However once the engine is build it will become like a brand new as the repair will replace most of the parts. Engine bore was not damaged and the Mechanic told that there is no need of put new pistons to the engine. Following parts will be replaced. Engine overhaul kit ( this contains, gaskets, oil seals,valve seals etc..) Main bearing set Bggen bearing set Ring set Timing chain Timing adjusters (2 nos) Chain tensioner He decided to put all of these stuff, then engine will be good for several years. I got some picture of the dismentalled engine. It has lots of carbon build up on the piston head.
  15. 0 points
    ...And the owner of that particular service wanted the government to restrict people from trading directly with online e-commerce sites so his POS-ruka can fleece people who want to import goods 👎
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