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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/07/2019 in all areas

  1. 15 points
    My fellow AL Guys, I have been an avid autolanka member since I got my first car (Mazda demio) back in 2017.One thing that always intrigued me was how much AL members loved their lancers. So I always thought to my self what would it be like to own one. I have read every posts/discussions related to lancers ( AL Famous BRATT tread- that was one hell of a tread and I read all 32 pages of it) and I always questioned myself "is this actually good as members claim it to be? so I decided a give it a try. Long story short, when I saw this advert on autolanka about a month a back my eyes were completely fixated on this beauty. it was one of the most beautiful lancers I have seen. However at that point I had some other personal issues to take care of and my mind was not in a good mood to concentrate on the car. After sometime back I was surprised to see the lancer was still on classifieds. I thought it would be gone. So I contacted the seller, who confirmed me that the car was still available. I was over the moon and 2 days after I went to inspect the car and that was it. Knew she was meant to be mine.I paid an advance after inspecting and reserved the car for myself. ( hats off to the previous owner who is a Known lancer enthusiast for properly taking care of the car) It took another 2 weeks to sort out the finances for myself ( to sell my Demio and arrange the rest of the funds). and Last Friday I brought the lancer to my rural village. couldn't be more happier. I would like to thank AL members specially Davy,Trinity and the rest of the AL Lancer guys who made me a lancer lover and eventually an owner.So without further ado I bring to you " Evangeline" ( I bought this ride for her.Had to name the car after my daughter). More pics and updates to follow.
  2. 8 points
    Here are the pics at the end of the car restoration... Couldn't update the blog yet because this time i basically replaced almost a lot of parts and so much to write,,. will update it when i get some free time... didnt do any photoshoot even, just took pics while driving and here you go.. The paint code is DEEP BLACK PEARL btw... Thanks in advance for the compliments
  3. 6 points
    Corolla 121 can be introduced as one of the most popular cars in TYPICAL SRI LANKAN vehicle market. Even being aged closed to 20 years they still sell around 3 million. So still most buyers are interested about this car, and I planned to share my 7 years of experience in this blog. I used a 2000 manufactured G Grade one which has a 1500cc engine. What it really is? Just a compact car designed for A to B transportation with good fuel economy and realiability. Driving So I’m going to start from how it is like to drive. When compared to the other cars in the same category the acceleration is really good for a 1.5L motor. The car is comparatively lighter than the 110 and Axio, so for me I’m yet to experience a better acceleration from a newer car with the same engine. It has good kick down acceleration due to 4 speed automatic transmission. For me the engine performance is better than the Civic ES5(1.5l), Mazda Axela 2004-2009, Lancer CS series and Nissan Tiida. Handling is a bit sharper than the newer Axios,Allions and Premios, but not sharp as a Honda or a Mazda. Steering is really light with a very little amount of feedback from the road. Due to the rear torsion beam setup the car is not steady in corners when compared to the older 110 and Carinas(which has independent rear suspension). But it is comparatively better in corners than the Axio.Braking is ok. Neither great nor bad. When it comes to handling Hondas and Mazdas are better. On the highways the car is steady for speeds around 100-120. After 120 there was a slight vibration(due to the resonance of the engine) but when you accelerate further around 140 the vibration goes away. There is a noticable change in stability after 140 as you can feel the car is well planted than before. You can go all the way upto 180 without any issue ONLY IF YOUR CAR IS IN PERFECT CONDITION(TIRES, ALIGNMENT,BRAKES AND SUSPENSION). I’ve tested twice and really impressed. For day to day driving around the town the car is good due to reduced length and good ground clearance. Ground clearance is really good when compared to other cars from the same class and even with never Fit,Grace and Prius. The light steering really helps for easy manouvering. Visibility is okay, but sometimes the thick front A pillars are a bit disturbing. Also there is a problem about visibility when the dashboards is reflected from the windscreen during direct sunlight. Driving position is pretty higher like most other Toyotas and not sporty at all. Feels like you are sitting on a chair. Comfort When I bought the car it was running on its original shock absorbers. But in 2015 I changed them using Japan made KYB Excel G and it reduced the the comfort level by a considerable amount. But the car is more comfortable than Mazda Axela, Honda Fit GP1 and GP5, Civic FD3, Honda Grace and Vezel, Toyota Aqua. I can really handle potholes well, but bumps can make the car wavy due to the rear torsion beam setup. The refinement levels are really good when compared to the above mentioned set of cars and it is another field that the 121 really excels. Under lightfooted driving the engine noise can’t be heard, and road noise levels are much lower. After long journeys I felt less tired than the Gp5 and Gp1. Seats are really comfortable and are a bit firmer than 110,FB15 N16s, but not firm as the Allion Premio 260 2007-2012 F grade and Hondas and Mazdas. One thing that I noticed was the rear seat thigh support is better than the Premios and Allions. Seat space is okay of you are under 6ft. Front seats feel a bit cramped due to the dashboard design beacause I’m 6ft. I always felt that Front seats are less spacious for me when compared to the other cars, even the GP1 is better. Fuel Economy Another area that this car excels. Based on my personal experienced around the town it does only about 9-10 kmpl with full time ac on 92 octane(because I live in a really hilly area). For trips like Colombo to Kandy it car return around 14-15kmpl with full time AC. It returned well over 18kmpl when travelled through highway to matara and longer trips with less traffic with 3-4 adults on borad. Also note that driving pattern hugely affects the economy level. Slow driving will never return good fuel figures. Maintaining a speed level around 70-80 will return really good fuel figures. After the first few months I never calculated fuel figures since it is much less expensive to run. Reliability This is the car which made me a Toyota fan. It never broke down. Never even had to touch the spare tire. I had done 60,000km (93,000km to 153,000km). I only had to do the running repairs and replacements. Did the tuneups and changed the ATF fluid once for every 40,000km. Used only Toyota oils.Did the services on time and never let the “makabasses” touch the car. Changed the AC cooler. Changed one hub razor. Only the running repairs. But remember that most of the cars up for sale have been through much abuse and therefore don’t expect the same level of reliability from every car. Make sure to set aside about Rs.100,000 for the repairs when you are buying a car. Also note that some cars have manufacturing defects, eventhough the car model is proven reliable. I know a guy who sold his 2010 personally imported Allion after doing 60,000kms due to excessive repairs. That depends on your luck. Options Has a good amount of options considering it’s age. Always go for a G, G limited or a Luxel grade if you buy one. I will do another entry explaining about all the grades and options. Build Quality Interior is really good with soft touch materials on the dashboard and upper doors. All trim pieces are solidly fixed so I never experienced any “creeks”. Interior material quality is better than the 141 Axio and 2nd and 3rd gen Prius. Good when compared with the cars of the same category. Notable Faults with the car -The steering rack is issue is famous with these Toyotas. It gives no problem except for the “duk duk” noise when travelling on bad roads. I repaired it but again after 3-4 months the noise came. Best thing is to replace it with a good reconditioned part. -As mentioned before the dashboard’s reflection on the windscreen reduces the visibility during direct sunlight(only when the sunlight falls directly on the dash) -The center console has a small compartment, just over the ash tray and the lid of it was broken from the begining and in most 121’s I’ve seen it broken. -Discoloration of the headlights is pretty fast due to the shape of the headlights Resale The car was sold over a month ago keeping me a 150,000 profit even after 7 years of usage. Remember that if the price is right you can easily sell it. I was quoting a really high price earlier and got a chance to sell it keeping 275,000 profit. But at that time I had no car to move on so gave up the idea(3 months ago). I advertised the car on a not-that-much-famous site on internet and next day morning two boys came for inspection and in the evening gave the advance. He still calls me due to satisfaction.😃 Really I loved the car throughout it’s stay with me for 7 years. Really a good car which is suited well for the Sri Lankan conditions and Typical Sri Lankan car buyer’s requirements. Make sure to look after the car well and it returns you with good reliability. Always use japanese parts and good mechanics for the repairs. Hope to do another entry to this blog about the Grades available in 121. This review is based purely on my experience and some details might differ from car to car. Please inform me if there is something inappropriate or wrong and welcome for all comments. I triend my best to provide and unbiased review.Thank you for reading👍 Cheers!!! -alpha17-
  4. 5 points
    It's been a while since the last entry where I rambled on about the minor details but now for the all important part how does this actually drive. I've done over 5000 Km's now and I guess spend enough time with the car to give my honest feedback on how it handles etc. I'm not going to dwell on the statistics and figures since that is readily available on the internet - but for formalities sake the Civic comes with the P10A2 engine - Honda's 3 cylinder turbo charged engine which has somewhere between 125-130 BHP. So the overall driving experience ? Well it's adequate and after the break-in period it seems the car is actually quite eager than it was initially. There is a bit of turbo lag and coupled with the torque at low revs you feel a bit like driving a diesel ....no complaints though. A question I usually get from some people is whether this model comes with the much maligned DCT - well surprise surprise it does not. Honda have mated the P10A2 with a CVT. Of course there is always the manual and that is actually supposed to be great as per reviews from the UK - but considering I use this car to drive daily to and from work in the colombo traffic I had to be a masochist to opt for a manual (which I'm not - and god bless future me when I try to sell a manual in Sri Lanka ) . Those who have driven the GP5's and Graces know that the Dual clutch set up is actually a blast to drive - which is not the case with the CVT. My previous car also had a CVT gear box and frankly I'm not a fan of them at all. But then given how DCT's fared locally I guess having a rubbery CVT over a DCT setup is not a huge deal. All grades of the FK6 comes with paddle-shifters - now I know it's a bit funny to see paddle shifters and CVT in the same sentence but what the setup actually does is have more of a simulated shifting mechanism going when you use them. When you're in normal 'Drive' mode you can use the shifters to change gears but the car is too eager to override you and kind of spoils the fun. However if you change your gear to 'S' then the HUD will display an 'M' indicating that the car is ready to receive manual input and a blinking indicator also indicates when the time is right to shift up. Of course if you don't shift at the right moment the car will give you some time and after a while will override you. S mode, and the 7-Speed CVT with the shifters is a little fun time to time but I think it's there more as a gimmick to be perfectly honest. I will upload a video on this later on and update the entry. There is an ECO mode which can be enabled/disabled by a switch on the gear shifter console. Turning off the Eco mode will give you a more fun driving experience as the car is much more peppier. For more fun on an open road shift to S and use the shifters. I use the E03 expressway daily and that's where this car really feels home at. I mentioned the low end torque - around 2250 RPM there is a sweet spot and you can feel that pull. Due to it's dynamics the car feels very well planted and very stable at high speeds. You just feel the car hugging the road and hurtling forward - which is a really nice feeling. The handling is quite good -the steering is a little lifeless but adequately sharp and the ride is very controlled. I drive an SR which does not have the adaptive damper system found on the EX. The ride is generally smooth even with some potholes - though I cannot give any feedback about the rear since I've never actually traveled in the back seat. Road noise is something I've always associated with Honda's and once again this is no exception though the road noise insulation is comparatively better than that of smaller cars like the Fit. But it does a good job of cutting out the racket from that noisy 3 pot engine - which believe me is quite loud and rough when you actually open the hood and take a look. But inside the car it's generally quiet. To sum it up ... Cars with downsized engines for the sake of reducing emissions and improving gas-mileage are not meant to be fast performance cars in the first place. But Honda have tried to give the driver a bit of feel-good factor with the fake air vents and the paddle shifters and the overall 'sporty' feel. I wish it didn't have the CVT gear box and the steering was a little less lighter. But the noisy little 3 pot engine pulls really well given it's size and the weight of the car. The 1L Turbo Civic is no Type R but for a bird with clipped wings it flies pretty well. And now for the FAQ Section ---------------------------------------------------- [1] "Nice car bro how does it do on fuel ? " : I drive in generally bad traffic I wouldn't claim it to be the worst since I don't travel to areas like Rajagiriya/Dehiwala etc. And the car returns around 7-8 KMPL. On general I get about 10 KMPL in a 50-50 City/Suburban drive. On the Expressway I get around 6L/100Km which means about 16.6 KMPL. On the average long distance drive on non expressways depending on the time of the day the car will do between 12-16 KMPL. [2] "The car is a bit low isn't it? " : One fear I had earlier about the car before purchase is it's low ground clearance - somehow I have found it to be ok so far. I recently traveled on one of the most horrible roads I have seen in the western province - it was a tiny impossibly narrow dirt road with immense pot holes and pieces of rock jutting out leading to an almost forgotten home for the senior citizens where we had to give dinner. It was a hellish drive in pitch darkness but somehow i got through without a single scrape. For a better understanding I will try to upload some daytime pics of the said road. [3] "Aren't the back seats a bit cramped?" Leg-space wise no. There's quite a lot of leg space . The thing is due to the curved shape of the roof some may feel that head-space is a bit lacking. The only person to complain so far was my 6'3" /125Kg cousin. So unless you're some behemoth you are OK. Having said that I must say the Civic is a little too driver oriented with a lot of care given to the driver and lesser focus to the passengers: for instance the seat height adjustment is not available for the front passenger. It's a little darker in the back too.
  5. 5 points
    Just give the car and take the money. No documentation needed. After about a month, if the CID visits your home, thats the only time u will need documentation.
  6. 5 points
    Well, he SHOULD know, he owns an Allion himself, prior to that a 121, so...
  7. 5 points
    If you ask me about which car to go for, if you have a budget of less than a million, these will be my choices. 1. Proton Wira - reason: you can get a newer car. Parts are not an issue at all, because most of the internals are swappable with Mitsubishi Lancer. Build quality is not bad. Don't be fooled by idiots who say 'Maleshiya ne... apo oka honda naa'. 2. Mazda Familia/Ford Laser - reason: I have seen many cars that are 25+ years old. NONE of them hold on to their build as much as Mazda and Mazda Fords do. Even after 25 years and 300,000kms on the clock, these cars just go on. 3. Toyota Corolla Wagon - another good workhorse. The sedan version (E100-series) is well over a million, but you may be able to find a wagon (what they call elephant back), with basic options for around that price. That's another car that just goes on and on 4. Doctor Sunny - Oldest cars in this list. If you can find a well maintained one, this is also another car that can take abuse Other honourable mentions are Toyota Starlet and Nissan March. Now let's come to your list: Daihatsu Charade - Wouldn't recommend because its an old turbo diesel engine. It's good if it works, but if the turbo packs up, good luck Ford Festiva - It's actually a Korean car made by Kia. Back in the 90s, Kia was an upcoming company. They made good cars, but your challenge will be finding spares. I doubt even ebay will have spares that you need. Mazda Astina - Again, spares will be an issue. Especially if someone decides to drop a rock on to the rear windscreen Nissan Y10 and AT170 - Both are decent cars, but I wouldn't pay 950k for these. Way too old That leaves the two Mazdas. From your list, those are the only two cars I will personally consider. Check whether they are carburetor or EFI. Always go for an EFI car. Old carbs are a real pain in the ass and there are no carb mechanics anymore. Auto or manual doesn't matter. If you are happy to drive a manual, go for it. Duplicate CR also doesn't matter if you are buying a car for personal use. Give a lowball offer. It's a bit tough to sell a car with a duplicate CR, but not as tough as people think. Most important is the condition of the car, so go for the one which is better maintained. Do you have photos of these two cars? can you post them (you can cover the number plate). I'd like to see whether they are BG5, BG6, BHA or BH6 or even BJ5/6.
  8. 3 points
    Restoration work began. The idea is to work at home. Found a person to do the tinker work. I do the mechanical work and hoping to do the paint job as well in the future. Firstly removed the interior parts such as car seats. After that, the four doors were removed. Then front and back wings, bonnet & boot. Finally the differential and the engine were removed.
  9. 3 points
    The car was exposed to the sunlight & rain for a long time. So there was corrosion on almost all body panels and floorboard too. Cleaned the plug wires, filled the tank, connected a charged battery and attempt to start it. After several attempt it started. The destination (my home) was 120 km and we started the journey around 11.00 am. As I was aware cars condition, selected rural roads. Brakes were very weak. So could not exceed 30kmh. During the trip had to replace a tire and the fan belt. Finally reached to the destination around 9.00 pm. Here are some initial condition pictures. Special thanks should go to @Davy for encouraging me to write this in a discussion.
  10. 3 points
    So your suggestion is to buy an overpriced FB14 in an oversized, heavy frilly dress 😂😅🔨
  11. 3 points
    ...And the owner of that particular service wanted the government to restrict people from trading directly with online e-commerce sites so his POS-ruka can fleece people who want to import goods 👎
  12. 3 points
    This is just a story that is woven by car salesmen and the so called know-nothing car-pundits with blinders on (when these people wanted to palm off Hybrid Axelas, Mazda was the the best brand around according to them). You can buy a newer and much better spec''d Mazda for a far more reasonable price than a Toyota. The Toyotas are over priced and 90% of the day to day models are abused, patched up and sold off. So you are paying a lot more money for a highly questionable car that is much older than you would with the Mazda. So you buy a Mazda for a reasonable price and you will be able to sell it at a reasonable price. When you sell off the car in about 6-7 years your car will be a decade old or more older. At that point what should be more important is the condition of the vehicle rather than the badge. But...true...Mazda buyers are a select type of buyers...not the hordes and hordes of Toyota-higana types who would buy any P.O.S for a fortune just because it has a Toyota badge on it.
  13. 3 points
    So I just completed my second oil change at the agent (Boralesgamuwa) and got them to use Castrol Edge Pro A5 5W-30 instead of their regular semi synthetic 5W-30. Cost me approximately 15k for the oil alone. The owner’s manual should dictate what type of oil you should use. In mine, it indicates either 5W-30 or 0W-30 ACEA A5 or A3 oil. For 0W-20, it states that only Honda Engine Oil Type 2.0 should be used so I didn’t adventure down that path since the agent didn’t have it anyways. For everyone else tuned in and following my lovely experiences with the agents, I had a good 10min conversation with the service advisor about the type of oil they use in the newer Civics. He went on to state that: 1) Honda UK don’t know about SL climates and service intervals, so you have to change your oil every 5k km here or before if the maintenance minder indicates it regardless of the type of oil 2) In their history, they’ve always used semi-synthetic oil and it has never caused any problems - he claimed 3) It’s only when customers ask for fully synthetic that they have problems especially sludge build-up, however that is the customer’s wish I found points 2 and 3 a bit naive especially since you need better quality oil and not Dino oil for higher performance engines where oil pressures are significantly higher than before. Semi-synthetic may have worked with the older cars that weren’t turbo-boosted. These newer ones have a tiny 3-cylinder engine with a turbo and temperatures are definitely way hotter than the previous generations. Secondly, with regards to sludge, that will happen when you switch to synthetic in a car with a few 10’s of thousands of km’s running on conventional or semi-synthetic. That’s because fully synthetic oil cleans up better and is a detergent oil so all that sludge that was collected in between piston rings, cylinder heads, etc. will start to come loose and result in sludge. Got this info off Scotty Kilmer and he is in line with debunking the myth a lot of mechanics spread: “fully synthetic oil causes sludge”. By the way, I also asked them about a particular part on my car that I’d need replacing and they admitted that they don’t bring down many parts for the UK model Civic to SL regularly so they’d have to back-order. That’s contrary to what their sales rep said prior to purchasing the car though. All in all, I’m just going to follow the maintenance minder for services as it has proven itself smart enough for now. And of course, will continue with fully synthetic 5w-30.
  14. 3 points
    Is it just me or are there more and more classifieds with genuine mileage - even for mainstream cars? I see people not being afraid to advertise mileages of 200,000 + this is a good trend.
  15. 3 points
    Finally she’s here😁Thanking all the members who helped me in various ways💪
  16. 2 points
    Wanted a jimny, tried for a Copen, ended up behind a vitz sigh’ married life
  17. 2 points
  18. 2 points
    Old question, adding an answer for future reference. The most common issues of Nissan Neo-Di engines (QG18DD, QR20DD, QR25DD, VQ25DD, VQ30DD ...etc.) are: 1. Faulty injectors which are fail to hold the pressure. Cleaning injectors are completely useless on these engines. 2. High pressure fuel pump failure due to leaking seals inside the pump or low fuel pressure due to worn plungers. 3. High fuel pressure due to a blocked or faulty fuel regulator. Hard starting after warm up, uneven idle, increased fuel consumption and performance issue are the symptoms of these fuel system issues. These issues can be easily identified by looking at fuel trim data and fuel pressure through a scanner. Normal fuel pressure on a QR engine is 6.00MPa at idle and 10 to 11.00MPa at 2500RMP. The pressure should be relief after shutting down the engine. If the fuel regular is blocked, it will be hard to start or throw the error P1232. In your case what was the issue with the pump? Low fuel pressure, high fuel pressure or mechanically failed fuel pump (leaking oil, - gasoline separation seals are mixing gasoline with oil or worn plungers)? You have to diagnose the issue correctly and order a pump online if it's faulty. Look in Russian federation. PS: If you have carbon fouled spark plug or more, it indicates that the injectors are leaking and need to be replaced. If you notice a strong gasoline smell from the oil filler neck, while warming up, that indicates a faulty fuel pump seal. Loss of power may indicate pressure issues.
  19. 2 points
    Well I never got to that review or the continuation of that thread I had just sold my hilux, and since reviews were so Much of a let down, Actually what happened was we bought a 3.2 Montero, which we still have, then another L200 which we still have in the distant family, Thereafter after a bit of orienting with the agents I managed to find a Montero sport which replaced the l200, The issue is mainly poor maintenance The pulling power is mostly due to using normal diesel and blocked egr, scv issues if those bits are rectified it really pulls, almost close to our 4m41 Montero Handling and body roll - upgraded shock absorbers and real bump stops, also tyres Seating position and equipment no obvious difference from a montero The factory Bridgestone tyres are hard ply. Upgraded brakes to Brembo pads Using all valvoline lubricants and timely changes of all So what happened was the Montero sport was supposed to be the daily runner , then we got the v97, later on we got the montero sport which actually is the one we use most being the most economical and peppy, and even to yala The v97 is pointlessly expensive to run and bits are also a bit costly when compared but no regrets. Again both equally uncomfortable in comparison to even a Kei car. And unbearable in traffic due to their size. To summarise about the KH4 Montero Sport, whatever critics and others may say This is my experience It's an old school off reader in a contemporary shell, extremely reliable and rather economical to run Comfortable or not in SUV s of this genre is debatable, i would never call them comfortable Then again I will never call them slow either You would notice vehicles with even >200,000km in good compression now despite me being told they cant The l200 we had with the same engine is at near 300,000km still in sufficient compression. There were days I did bear 400km a day The bottom line is reviews aren't always the end of the world, it takes one to find out
  20. 2 points
    see this is why some factors vary depending on the user - some folk acquire certain automotive tastes. Some like cars that are like libraries others like me find it dead boring. The most enjoyable ride i had ever was in an ancient VW doing 80-90 KMH rattling like hell and screaming like a banshee. It's good to have guys like you on the forum to get unbiased opinions on cars with mass-appeal.
  21. 2 points
    You're the guy who dared to say Allions and Premios have no driving pleasure to @Kanishka12345's face despite being a owner of one No, that's not the double-middle-finger emoji even though it looks that way
  22. 2 points
    Thought of sharing this valuable information.. specially will be useful for users of old cars... So during my restoration process a part that I had to fix was the gear selector glass as it was broken.. I had two choices, either to replace the entire gear shifter panel which costs around 7k or to find a way to fix the broken glass.. then I found out this place infront of mount lavinia courts, where they completely make a new glass of the gear selector as per the original way, so i gave it a try and they made it exactly as how it was. They do it for any vehicles so if any of you need to fix your gear selector glass, you can get it done from this place. But you need to take the broken sample with you, so they would know the dimensions before making. They only took Rs. 1800 for the job and did it in 2 days. Here is the new one. No one could even figure out this is not the original one right?
  23. 2 points
    none of the above are SUVs nor provide smooth comfortable rides. European,US SAVs give smooth ride and handling closer to a car. Its coming from the suspension with many control-arms and mounts.
  24. 2 points
    Its like comparing apples and oranges. A used iPhone x vs brandnew oranges from the supermarket. Its that different. The crv is a much smaller vehicle. It goes with the mitsubishi outlander, which is below both the monty and the sport. The Montero has tried and tested tech. While the crv has all new tech. And from how the resent hondas did in the market. The gear box issues etc. Its a gamble. The crv has an engine thats half the size of the monty and to squeeze in the horses it has to work hard which will produce early wear on the engine. The montero is a much better vehicle reliable and not that hard to maintain. It has good mid range torque making it easy for overtaking than the petrol rivals. But the monty suffers from some bodyroll in the corners comapre to softroaders. The only issue is that for your budget you wont be able to find a well looked after 2013 one. Ive been on a search for a friend and those in your budget have been hacked to death A good example may fetch close to 10million or more so if your not going to go there you might as well go to the other alternative. But what i can asure you is a well maintained 6year old montero will last more than a crv rolling of the factory. It will have less problems, and they would be easily sorted. Will be more spacious. Will hold much better value come resale time. Its more prestigious (compared to the crv). More road presence. Its a proper offroader with low ratio and diff lock if you fancy even once in a while. Been using montys for around 15 years and never let me down.
  25. 2 points
    Just adding my 2 cents here- 3.8 for the Insight is a Little bit too much IMHO it comes with and old school CVT so you don't have to worry about DCT if you do get it make sure you get the battery tested at agents (applies to all hybrids anyway) The GP5's are pretty cheap nowadays if you can nail a good specimen for a decent price it's a good deal...go for one with proper records so that you know that maintenance has been properly done. Not all Vezels, GP5's develop DCt. as @iRage mentioned its due to driving conditions . I have 2 friends who have been driving a Vezel and GP5 since 2014 without any issues at all. this is not a bad idea either there are properly looked after 141's also consider the Axio 161 (non hybrid that came in 2012-2013 bought by govt servants on permit) generally ok car that you can get for around 4 Mill. During the last permit rush there were many out there and most of them were in really good condition.
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