Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/07/2019 in all areas

  1. 15 points
    My fellow AL Guys, I have been an avid autolanka member since I got my first car (Mazda demio) back in 2017.One thing that always intrigued me was how much AL members loved their lancers. So I always thought to my self what would it be like to own one. I have read every posts/discussions related to lancers ( AL Famous BRATT tread- that was one hell of a tread and I read all 32 pages of it) and I always questioned myself "is this actually good as members claim it to be? so I decided a give it a try. Long story short, when I saw this advert on autolanka about a month a back my eyes were completely fixated on this beauty. it was one of the most beautiful lancers I have seen. However at that point I had some other personal issues to take care of and my mind was not in a good mood to concentrate on the car. After sometime back I was surprised to see the lancer was still on classifieds. I thought it would be gone. So I contacted the seller, who confirmed me that the car was still available. I was over the moon and 2 days after I went to inspect the car and that was it. Knew she was meant to be mine.I paid an advance after inspecting and reserved the car for myself. ( hats off to the previous owner who is a Known lancer enthusiast for properly taking care of the car) It took another 2 weeks to sort out the finances for myself ( to sell my Demio and arrange the rest of the funds). and Last Friday I brought the lancer to my rural village. couldn't be more happier. I would like to thank AL members specially Davy,Trinity and the rest of the AL Lancer guys who made me a lancer lover and eventually an owner.So without further ado I bring to you " Evangeline" ( I bought this ride for her.Had to name the car after my daughter). More pics and updates to follow.
  2. 8 points
    Here are the pics at the end of the car restoration... Couldn't update the blog yet because this time i basically replaced almost a lot of parts and so much to write,,. will update it when i get some free time... didnt do any photoshoot even, just took pics while driving and here you go.. The paint code is DEEP BLACK PEARL btw... Thanks in advance for the compliments
  3. 6 points
    It's been a while since the last entry where I rambled on about the minor details but now for the all important part how does this actually drive. I've done over 5000 Km's now and I guess spend enough time with the car to give my honest feedback on how it handles etc. I'm not going to dwell on the statistics and figures since that is readily available on the internet - but for formalities sake the Civic comes with the P10A2 engine - Honda's 3 cylinder turbo charged engine which has somewhere between 125-130 BHP. So the overall driving experience ? Well it's adequate and after the break-in period it seems the car is actually quite eager than it was initially. There is a bit of turbo lag and coupled with the torque at low revs you feel a bit like driving a diesel ....no complaints though. A question I usually get from some people is whether this model comes with the much maligned DCT - well surprise surprise it does not. Honda have mated the P10A2 with a CVT. Of course there is always the manual and that is actually supposed to be great as per reviews from the UK - but considering I use this car to drive daily to and from work in the colombo traffic I had to be a masochist to opt for a manual (which I'm not - and god bless future me when I try to sell a manual in Sri Lanka ) . Those who have driven the GP5's and Graces know that the Dual clutch set up is actually a blast to drive - which is not the case with the CVT. My previous car also had a CVT gear box and frankly I'm not a fan of them at all. But then given how DCT's fared locally I guess having a rubbery CVT over a DCT setup is not a huge deal. All grades of the FK6 comes with paddle-shifters - now I know it's a bit funny to see paddle shifters and CVT in the same sentence but what the setup actually does is have more of a simulated shifting mechanism going when you use them. When you're in normal 'Drive' mode you can use the shifters to change gears but the car is too eager to override you and kind of spoils the fun. However if you change your gear to 'S' then the HUD will display an 'M' indicating that the car is ready to receive manual input and a blinking indicator also indicates when the time is right to shift up. Of course if you don't shift at the right moment the car will give you some time and after a while will override you. S mode, and the 7-Speed CVT with the shifters is a little fun time to time but I think it's there more as a gimmick to be perfectly honest. I will upload a video on this later on and update the entry. There is an ECO mode which can be enabled/disabled by a switch on the gear shifter console. Turning off the Eco mode will give you a more fun driving experience as the car is much more peppier. For more fun on an open road shift to S and use the shifters. I use the E03 expressway daily and that's where this car really feels home at. I mentioned the low end torque - around 2250 RPM there is a sweet spot and you can feel that pull. Due to it's dynamics the car feels very well planted and very stable at high speeds. You just feel the car hugging the road and hurtling forward - which is a really nice feeling. The handling is quite good -the steering is a little lifeless but adequately sharp and the ride is very controlled. I drive an SR which does not have the adaptive damper system found on the EX. The ride is generally smooth even with some potholes - though I cannot give any feedback about the rear since I've never actually traveled in the back seat. Road noise is something I've always associated with Honda's and once again this is no exception though the road noise insulation is comparatively better than that of smaller cars like the Fit. But it does a good job of cutting out the racket from that noisy 3 pot engine - which believe me is quite loud and rough when you actually open the hood and take a look. But inside the car it's generally quiet. To sum it up ... Cars with downsized engines for the sake of reducing emissions and improving gas-mileage are not meant to be fast performance cars in the first place. But Honda have tried to give the driver a bit of feel-good factor with the fake air vents and the paddle shifters and the overall 'sporty' feel. I wish it didn't have the CVT gear box and the steering was a little less lighter. But the noisy little 3 pot engine pulls really well given it's size and the weight of the car. The 1L Turbo Civic is no Type R but for a bird with clipped wings it flies pretty well. And now for the FAQ Section ---------------------------------------------------- [1] "Nice car bro how does it do on fuel ? " : I drive in generally bad traffic I wouldn't claim it to be the worst since I don't travel to areas like Rajagiriya/Dehiwala etc. And the car returns around 7-8 KMPL. On general I get about 10 KMPL in a 50-50 City/Suburban drive. On the Expressway I get around 6L/100Km which means about 16.6 KMPL. On the average long distance drive on non expressways depending on the time of the day the car will do between 12-16 KMPL. [2] "The car is a bit low isn't it? " : One fear I had earlier about the car before purchase is it's low ground clearance - somehow I have found it to be ok so far. I recently traveled on one of the most horrible roads I have seen in the western province - it was a tiny impossibly narrow dirt road with immense pot holes and pieces of rock jutting out leading to an almost forgotten home for the senior citizens where we had to give dinner. It was a hellish drive in pitch darkness but somehow i got through without a single scrape. For a better understanding I will try to upload some daytime pics of the said road. [3] "Aren't the back seats a bit cramped?" Leg-space wise no. There's quite a lot of leg space . The thing is due to the curved shape of the roof some may feel that head-space is a bit lacking. The only person to complain so far was my 6'3" /125Kg cousin. So unless you're some behemoth you are OK. Having said that I must say the Civic is a little too driver oriented with a lot of care given to the driver and lesser focus to the passengers: for instance the seat height adjustment is not available for the front passenger. It's a little darker in the back too.
  4. 6 points
    Corolla 121 can be introduced as one of the most popular cars in TYPICAL SRI LANKAN vehicle market. Even being aged closed to 20 years they still sell around 3 million. So still most buyers are interested about this car, and I planned to share my 7 years of experience in this blog. I used a 2000 manufactured G Grade one which has a 1500cc engine. What it really is? Just a compact car designed for A to B transportation with good fuel economy and realiability. Driving So I’m going to start from how it is like to drive. When compared to the other cars in the same category the acceleration is really good for a 1.5L motor. The car is comparatively lighter than the 110 and Axio, so for me I’m yet to experience a better acceleration from a newer car with the same engine. It has good kick down acceleration due to 4 speed automatic transmission. For me the engine performance is better than the Civic ES5(1.5l), Mazda Axela 2004-2009, Lancer CS series and Nissan Tiida. Handling is a bit sharper than the newer Axios,Allions and Premios, but not sharp as a Honda or a Mazda. Steering is really light with a very little amount of feedback from the road. Due to the rear torsion beam setup the car is not steady in corners when compared to the older 110 and Carinas(which has independent rear suspension). But it is comparatively better in corners than the Axio.Braking is ok. Neither great nor bad. When it comes to handling Hondas and Mazdas are better. On the highways the car is steady for speeds around 100-120. After 120 there was a slight vibration(due to the resonance of the engine) but when you accelerate further around 140 the vibration goes away. There is a noticable change in stability after 140 as you can feel the car is well planted than before. You can go all the way upto 180 without any issue ONLY IF YOUR CAR IS IN PERFECT CONDITION(TIRES, ALIGNMENT,BRAKES AND SUSPENSION). I’ve tested twice and really impressed. For day to day driving around the town the car is good due to reduced length and good ground clearance. Ground clearance is really good when compared to other cars from the same class and even with never Fit,Grace and Prius. The light steering really helps for easy manouvering. Visibility is okay, but sometimes the thick front A pillars are a bit disturbing. Also there is a problem about visibility when the dashboards is reflected from the windscreen during direct sunlight. Driving position is pretty higher like most other Toyotas and not sporty at all. Feels like you are sitting on a chair. Comfort When I bought the car it was running on its original shock absorbers. But in 2015 I changed them using Japan made KYB Excel G and it reduced the the comfort level by a considerable amount. But the car is more comfortable than Mazda Axela, Honda Fit GP1 and GP5, Civic FD3, Honda Grace and Vezel, Toyota Aqua. I can really handle potholes well, but bumps can make the car wavy due to the rear torsion beam setup. The refinement levels are really good when compared to the above mentioned set of cars and it is another field that the 121 really excels. Under lightfooted driving the engine noise can’t be heard, and road noise levels are much lower. After long journeys I felt less tired than the Gp5 and Gp1. Seats are really comfortable and are a bit firmer than 110,FB15 N16s, but not firm as the Allion Premio 260 2007-2012 F grade and Hondas and Mazdas. One thing that I noticed was the rear seat thigh support is better than the Premios and Allions. Seat space is okay of you are under 6ft. Front seats feel a bit cramped due to the dashboard design beacause I’m 6ft. I always felt that Front seats are less spacious for me when compared to the other cars, even the GP1 is better. Fuel Economy Another area that this car excels. Based on my personal experienced around the town it does only about 9-10 kmpl with full time ac on 92 octane(because I live in a really hilly area). For trips like Colombo to Kandy it car return around 14-15kmpl with full time AC. It returned well over 18kmpl when travelled through highway to matara and longer trips with less traffic with 3-4 adults on borad. Also note that driving pattern hugely affects the economy level. Slow driving will never return good fuel figures. Maintaining a speed level around 70-80 will return really good fuel figures. After the first few months I never calculated fuel figures since it is much less expensive to run. Reliability This is the car which made me a Toyota fan. It never broke down. Never even had to touch the spare tire. I had done 60,000km (93,000km to 153,000km). I only had to do the running repairs and replacements. Did the tuneups and changed the ATF fluid once for every 40,000km. Used only Toyota oils.Did the services on time and never let the “makabasses” touch the car. Changed the AC cooler. Changed one hub razor. Only the running repairs. But remember that most of the cars up for sale have been through much abuse and therefore don’t expect the same level of reliability from every car. Make sure to set aside about Rs.100,000 for the repairs when you are buying a car. Also note that some cars have manufacturing defects, eventhough the car model is proven reliable. I know a guy who sold his 2010 personally imported Allion after doing 60,000kms due to excessive repairs. That depends on your luck. Options Has a good amount of options considering it’s age. Always go for a G, G limited or a Luxel grade if you buy one. I will do another entry explaining about all the grades and options. Build Quality Interior is really good with soft touch materials on the dashboard and upper doors. All trim pieces are solidly fixed so I never experienced any “creeks”. Interior material quality is better than the 141 Axio and 2nd and 3rd gen Prius. Good when compared with the cars of the same category. Notable Faults with the car -The steering rack is issue is famous with these Toyotas. It gives no problem except for the “duk duk” noise when travelling on bad roads. I repaired it but again after 3-4 months the noise came. Best thing is to replace it with a good reconditioned part. -As mentioned before the dashboard’s reflection on the windscreen reduces the visibility during direct sunlight(only when the sunlight falls directly on the dash) -The center console has a small compartment, just over the ash tray and the lid of it was broken from the begining and in most 121’s I’ve seen it broken. -Discoloration of the headlights is pretty fast due to the shape of the headlights Resale The car was sold over a month ago keeping me a 150,000 profit even after 7 years of usage. Remember that if the price is right you can easily sell it. I was quoting a really high price earlier and got a chance to sell it keeping 275,000 profit. But at that time I had no car to move on so gave up the idea(3 months ago). I advertised the car on a not-that-much-famous site on internet and next day morning two boys came for inspection and in the evening gave the advance. He still calls me due to satisfaction.😃 Really I loved the car throughout it’s stay with me for 7 years. Really a good car which is suited well for the Sri Lankan conditions and Typical Sri Lankan car buyer’s requirements. Make sure to look after the car well and it returns you with good reliability. Always use japanese parts and good mechanics for the repairs. Hope to do another entry to this blog about the Grades available in 121. This review is based purely on my experience and some details might differ from car to car. Please inform me if there is something inappropriate or wrong and welcome for all comments. I triend my best to provide and unbiased review.Thank you for reading👍 Cheers!!! -alpha17-
  5. 6 points
    Guys, As promised here are some updates with Pics. I gotta tell, there's nothing quite like waking up to see that wicked/aggressive face. that makes my day. Car is filled with ralliart accessories. I intend to keep the ralliart theme as it is.In fact ordered few more ralliart additions.In my view these are tiny little details which can go long way in terms of the overall aesthetic appeal. Too bad the Ralliart variant of the lancer is not available in Sri Lanka. DGR Coilovers (Highlight of the car IMO)- I am yet to play with these babies. First sedan I am owning and I got it with coilovers. I guess there's no going back again. Did some highway and main roads driving. Ride is buttery smooth and absolutely zero body roll. On Bumpy/rutted cross roads it's a whole different story. I can feel every pat-holes and bumps. I think this is contributed by the low profile tires used in the car. Ride is pretty low and Just to give you an idea of how low that is I can't fit my two fingers into the space between the tire and the wheel arch. More updates- Coming soon!!🙂
  6. 5 points
    Just give the car and take the money. No documentation needed. After about a month, if the CID visits your home, thats the only time u will need documentation.
  7. 5 points
    Well, he SHOULD know, he owns an Allion himself, prior to that a 121, so...
  8. 5 points
    If you ask me about which car to go for, if you have a budget of less than a million, these will be my choices. 1. Proton Wira - reason: you can get a newer car. Parts are not an issue at all, because most of the internals are swappable with Mitsubishi Lancer. Build quality is not bad. Don't be fooled by idiots who say 'Maleshiya ne... apo oka honda naa'. 2. Mazda Familia/Ford Laser - reason: I have seen many cars that are 25+ years old. NONE of them hold on to their build as much as Mazda and Mazda Fords do. Even after 25 years and 300,000kms on the clock, these cars just go on. 3. Toyota Corolla Wagon - another good workhorse. The sedan version (E100-series) is well over a million, but you may be able to find a wagon (what they call elephant back), with basic options for around that price. That's another car that just goes on and on 4. Doctor Sunny - Oldest cars in this list. If you can find a well maintained one, this is also another car that can take abuse Other honourable mentions are Toyota Starlet and Nissan March. Now let's come to your list: Daihatsu Charade - Wouldn't recommend because its an old turbo diesel engine. It's good if it works, but if the turbo packs up, good luck Ford Festiva - It's actually a Korean car made by Kia. Back in the 90s, Kia was an upcoming company. They made good cars, but your challenge will be finding spares. I doubt even ebay will have spares that you need. Mazda Astina - Again, spares will be an issue. Especially if someone decides to drop a rock on to the rear windscreen Nissan Y10 and AT170 - Both are decent cars, but I wouldn't pay 950k for these. Way too old That leaves the two Mazdas. From your list, those are the only two cars I will personally consider. Check whether they are carburetor or EFI. Always go for an EFI car. Old carbs are a real pain in the ass and there are no carb mechanics anymore. Auto or manual doesn't matter. If you are happy to drive a manual, go for it. Duplicate CR also doesn't matter if you are buying a car for personal use. Give a lowball offer. It's a bit tough to sell a car with a duplicate CR, but not as tough as people think. Most important is the condition of the car, so go for the one which is better maintained. Do you have photos of these two cars? can you post them (you can cover the number plate). I'd like to see whether they are BG5, BG6, BHA or BH6 or even BJ5/6.
  9. 4 points
    @alpha17 @Davy I added a new sub forum under Autolanka Forums as BLOGS and redirected to blog section. It should redirect forum users to blog section. Further I will also try to create a new section for AL blog posts in the AL home page. Cheers!
  10. 4 points
    The cars that you have asked questions about (Vezel, Allion etc.) have already been extensively discussed in multiple threads. Did you try searching the forum first? The "free knowledge" you're talking about is already available, you just need to search a bit. Vezel Search Results | Allion Search Results As for SEO, they work by looking mainly at tags and thread title. All search tags on this thread (defined by you) speak nothing of the actual model. It's "3 million car", "4 million suv" and so on, but your original post is about Honda Vezel. While I appreciate you making the effort to create search tags (some members don't even bother to do so), the tags you've created don't really help anyone searching for Vezel. Also, I'm not sure if you noticed, but I left your thread about Lexus RX 300 alone, because I searched and couldn't find sufficient information or an existing thread. Your threads have little to do with the actual models in question... it's about your inability to decide which one to buy for your 4 million budget. So the best course of action is to create one thread so that members can give their ideas about the cars that you are considering to help you make a decision. It's done to help you. Finally, there are new threads created every single day and if every member creates a new thread for each vehicle that comes into their minds, regular members here will have no other work than type the same thing over and over again. So you as a newbie should first try to search and try to find information on your own. So please continue your discussion here.
  11. 4 points
    You should PM a mod ( @Davy ) and send all the links of the posts you have opened so far on this matter - and ask him if he could merge them all to one thread - "Best vehicle for a 4 - 4.5 million budget". And get your username changed to "Posthard" or "Spamhard" while you're at it
  12. 4 points
    Technically, all cars with seat warmers have seat cooling. It just starts working as soon as you turn the seat warmers off.
  13. 3 points
    Restoration work began. The idea is to work at home. Found a person to do the tinker work. I do the mechanical work and hoping to do the paint job as well in the future. Firstly removed the interior parts such as car seats. After that, the four doors were removed. Then front and back wings, bonnet & boot. Finally the differential and the engine were removed.
  14. 3 points
    The car was exposed to the sunlight & rain for a long time. So there was corrosion on almost all body panels and floorboard too. Cleaned the plug wires, filled the tank, connected a charged battery and attempt to start it. After several attempt it started. The destination (my home) was 120 km and we started the journey around 11.00 am. As I was aware cars condition, selected rural roads. Brakes were very weak. So could not exceed 30kmh. During the trip had to replace a tire and the fan belt. Finally reached to the destination around 9.00 pm. Here are some initial condition pictures. Special thanks should go to @Davy for encouraging me to write this in a discussion.
  15. 3 points
    @hustlehard, For the couple of weeks you've been a member of the forum, you have opened 5 (redundant) threads. Stop creating new topics for each new vehicle that pops up into your mind. If you keep doing this, the moderator team will be forced to add you to the moderated members list where you will not be able to post without approval. Consider this an informal warning. Three other similar threads merged into this. @Hyaenidae, thanks for pointing out. I really don't follow these "which vehicle can I buy for X amount of rupees" threads, so threads like this are missed.
  16. 3 points
    What was it call again? 🤦🏻‍♂️
  17. 3 points
    Allions and premios are now 'premium vehicles'? O tempora o mores!
  18. 3 points
    Aqua will be less costly to maintain. I cannot exactly comment about the battery, but keep in mind that Aqua batteries have a lifespan around 5 years. Some owners claim that they have done well over 100,000kms without an issue. When you use the Gp5, the dual clutch oil needs to be changed for every 5000km or atleast 10,000 kms. It costs around rs.3000-4000(correct me if I’m wrong). Make sure to put it into S gear while in traffic and try your best to avoid traffic conditons. Also be gentle with the accelerator. The gp5 has a much more complex but clever gearbox system. There is a video on youtube. Search it as “Honda earth dreams hybrid”. The video demonstrates how the system works. The system has more wear and tear when compared with a normal autobox or a CVT. But the system is really a joy to drive. I have to say that gp1 is one of my favourite cars to drive. As I know the insuarance costs are a bit higher. I’m also yet to hear about a battery issue on the newer honda hybrids. But sooner or later it will arrive. By the being of time, those clutch replacements and battery replacements will likely to reduce costs since there are a huge number of cars in SL. I know a person who owns both a Grace and a GP5(which was purchased few weeks ago). He’s pretty satisfied with them. He does closer to 30,000kms per year, so hybrid is benificial for him. He imports zero mileage cars and use them for about 5years and then sell them without battery replacements. His Grace might be now closer to 80,000km. You cannot be asured that your DCT won’t give a trouble.Best thing is to set aside around rs.200,000 when buying a car for the running repairs. Don’t be hesitated to go for a GP5. Even those Allion/Premios have high cost replacements too.
  19. 3 points
    So your suggestion is to buy an overpriced FB14 in an oversized, heavy frilly dress 😂😅🔨
  20. 3 points
    ...And the owner of that particular service wanted the government to restrict people from trading directly with online e-commerce sites so his POS-ruka can fleece people who want to import goods 👎
  21. 3 points
    This is just a story that is woven by car salesmen and the so called know-nothing car-pundits with blinders on (when these people wanted to palm off Hybrid Axelas, Mazda was the the best brand around according to them). You can buy a newer and much better spec''d Mazda for a far more reasonable price than a Toyota. The Toyotas are over priced and 90% of the day to day models are abused, patched up and sold off. So you are paying a lot more money for a highly questionable car that is much older than you would with the Mazda. So you buy a Mazda for a reasonable price and you will be able to sell it at a reasonable price. When you sell off the car in about 6-7 years your car will be a decade old or more older. At that point what should be more important is the condition of the vehicle rather than the badge. But...true...Mazda buyers are a select type of buyers...not the hordes and hordes of Toyota-higana types who would buy any P.O.S for a fortune just because it has a Toyota badge on it.
  22. 3 points
    Thought of sharing this valuable information.. specially will be useful for users of old cars... So during my restoration process a part that I had to fix was the gear selector glass as it was broken.. I had two choices, either to replace the entire gear shifter panel which costs around 7k or to find a way to fix the broken glass.. then I found out this place infront of mount lavinia courts, where they completely make a new glass of the gear selector as per the original way, so i gave it a try and they made it exactly as how it was. They do it for any vehicles so if any of you need to fix your gear selector glass, you can get it done from this place. But you need to take the broken sample with you, so they would know the dimensions before making. They only took Rs. 1800 for the job and did it in 2 days. Here is the new one. No one could even figure out this is not the original one right?
  23. 3 points
    So I just completed my second oil change at the agent (Boralesgamuwa) and got them to use Castrol Edge Pro A5 5W-30 instead of their regular semi synthetic 5W-30. Cost me approximately 15k for the oil alone. The owner’s manual should dictate what type of oil you should use. In mine, it indicates either 5W-30 or 0W-30 ACEA A5 or A3 oil. For 0W-20, it states that only Honda Engine Oil Type 2.0 should be used so I didn’t adventure down that path since the agent didn’t have it anyways. For everyone else tuned in and following my lovely experiences with the agents, I had a good 10min conversation with the service advisor about the type of oil they use in the newer Civics. He went on to state that: 1) Honda UK don’t know about SL climates and service intervals, so you have to change your oil every 5k km here or before if the maintenance minder indicates it regardless of the type of oil 2) In their history, they’ve always used semi-synthetic oil and it has never caused any problems - he claimed 3) It’s only when customers ask for fully synthetic that they have problems especially sludge build-up, however that is the customer’s wish I found points 2 and 3 a bit naive especially since you need better quality oil and not Dino oil for higher performance engines where oil pressures are significantly higher than before. Semi-synthetic may have worked with the older cars that weren’t turbo-boosted. These newer ones have a tiny 3-cylinder engine with a turbo and temperatures are definitely way hotter than the previous generations. Secondly, with regards to sludge, that will happen when you switch to synthetic in a car with a few 10’s of thousands of km’s running on conventional or semi-synthetic. That’s because fully synthetic oil cleans up better and is a detergent oil so all that sludge that was collected in between piston rings, cylinder heads, etc. will start to come loose and result in sludge. Got this info off Scotty Kilmer and he is in line with debunking the myth a lot of mechanics spread: “fully synthetic oil causes sludge”. By the way, I also asked them about a particular part on my car that I’d need replacing and they admitted that they don’t bring down many parts for the UK model Civic to SL regularly so they’d have to back-order. That’s contrary to what their sales rep said prior to purchasing the car though. All in all, I’m just going to follow the maintenance minder for services as it has proven itself smart enough for now. And of course, will continue with fully synthetic 5w-30.
  24. 3 points
    Is it just me or are there more and more classifieds with genuine mileage - even for mainstream cars? I see people not being afraid to advertise mileages of 200,000 + this is a good trend.
  25. 3 points
    Thanks , this part help us to judge the validity of your whole comment.
This leaderboard is set to Colombo/GMT+05:30


  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?

    Sign Up
×