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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/24/2019 in all areas

  1. It's been little more than 4 years with my Hiace and it has done around 76,000kms so I thought its time I give you guys an update on it. Let me start the blog with the basics, Mine is a Toyota Hiace KDH206, this variant of Hiace is fitted with a 1KD-FTV turbo engine with an all wheel drive system. The AWD system in the KDH series is pretty much full time, it runs on all four wheels normally and if any of the wheels experience a slippage, the vehicle stops sending power to that specific wheel. There is a noticeable difference between the AWD variant(KDH206) and RWD variant(KDH201). The KDH206 is around 100kg heavier and you could feel that through the steering when you drive one. In addition, the KDH206 feels far more planted at higher speeds and around corners than the RWD variant. However the downside is that the full time AWD system drinks bit more fuel than RWD version. Cost of Maintenance In short the Hiace is not cheap run, I get fuel economy of around 6km/l in kandy and around 9-10km/l outstation, the RWD KDH201 would return around another extra 2km more per litre. Hiace is originally fitted with 195/80R15 8ply tyres and they cost around 22-23.5K per tyre from brands like Continental or Pirelli, while Maxxis tyre could be found for around 16k. The Hiace requires 0W-30 oil and a regular service which needs to be carried out every 5000km costs around 10K using Toyota oil, I was using Toyota oil filter as well, but now I have switched to VIC. ATF oil must be changed around every 40k kms, I change air filter and cabin filter every year. It requires super diesel and this is an absolute must, if you regularly pump auto diesel you will pay more in repairs than what you saved by pumping auto diesel. The most likely issues you would get from pumping auto diesel are DPF, which costs around 70-80k to replace and injectors, which would set you back around 500k for all four. So far I had to change only a bush which costed around 50rs, apart from that I have not had any repairs. Performance The Hiace pulls pretty well for a vehicle which weighs 2 tonnes, the 1KD-FTV with a variable nozzle turbo produces 100kw at 3400RPM and 300nm of torque at 1200-3200rpm and it is connected to a 4 speed conventional automatic gearbox. Overtaking other vehicles with Hiace is pretty easy, you just have to put your foot down, the turbo will come to life and you would be gone. It is always on the right gear, there's no unnecessary downshifts or up shifts, the gearing ratios are perfectly synced with the power band of the engine although it is only a 4 speed gearbox in a world of 6 and 7 speed gearboxes. The Hiace properly comes to life on hill climbs with the help of low end power and variable nozzle turbo. Handling is fairly good for a van, it handles better than large SUVs. The KDH series has much less body roll compared to the previous LH series, but it isn't great as handling of a car. I notice the difference in handling when I drive the Hiace after driving our Bluebird which has front and rear independent suspension. Comfort It doesn't handle large potholes and bumps as good as a car, but it does manage to soften small potholes pretty well. The diesel engine noise is evident compared to a hybrid or petrol vehicle but the noise reduces when the vehicle gets to the third gear or at around 70+ km/h speed. The A/C is epic on the Hiace, it is one of the best cooling A/C I have come across, I rarely have to set the A/C temperature below 26 degree Celsius on auto mode and that is without the dual A/C. There is plenty of space inside, 7 or 8 people could travel on long journeys with their legs stretched out and not crammed. The second row seat is the best place to be in, you get the dual A/C right in front of you, it is acoustic sweet spot and minimal sunlight enters the cabin. Practicality It is quite a practical vehicle if you are using it occasionally or for long journeys as it can seat 8 comfortably yet carry plenty of luggage(you could fit around 4-5 large travelling bag placed horizontally), it has got atleast double the amount of luggage space compared to a Noah/Esquire. However it is bit of waste of money if you are using it on daily basis as fuel bills are gone be crazy and parking these are not that easy within city limits. In addition, maneuvering these around narrow roads requires some skills especially roads with tight bends. Second hand value and parts Selling a KDH isn't difficult at all, if you maintain them right there will always be people willing it to buy it from you. There are plenty of body parts available but 1KD engine parts are bit difficult to find and even if you do find, it will be expensive Some used parts prices are: Pair of tail lights: 15k for older design and 30k for new design Pair of headlight: more than 100k without the HID unit Rear door: around 40k Fog lights: around 20k What I have done with my Hiace The Modellista body kit came with the van from Japan itself and I added the Modellista grill later on Original Toyota spoiler which came painted pearl white I tinted the fog lamps yellow with Nightbreaker bulbs in them I have also replaced the rear seats which are rotatable and come with a table as well I have done some electronic mods as well, Installed a transcend DrivePro 200 Carrozzeria tweeters with crossover and JBL component speakers with crossover(thanks to @TheFlyingFox) https://streamable.com/ujkce I was planning on installing FIAMM horns, but the JDM side of my brain took over and I went with Mitsuba Alpha https://streamable.com/nbipn Note: click on the links to access the videos My dad had the body kit removed for a short period of time and during that time I drove it through some muddy terrain. It did well.
    6 points
  2. The first thing that struck me when i sat down to drive this for the first time was the really low seating position - it did not take a lot of getting used to though. The height is of course adjustable and provides a much comfier driving position. The passengers seat on the other hand though cannot be height adjusted. The rear seats too don't have the fabled "magic seats" functionality where you can fold up the seats to increase space in the rear - but you can fold the seats down to create a humongous amount of boot space - I do not quite remember the exact capacity but it's quite a lot. Due to the shape of the roof , while the rear seats are quite comfortable and have a decent amount of space for your legs you might feel a bit of head room is missing. But it won't really translate into a problem - unless you are from Marhsall Eriksen's family . The SR grade (and the SE) for that matter comes with fabric seats - and the interior is black by default (for all grades) . So no "Baij Interiyal" advertisements on the classifieds for this model then. The materials for the seats are quite "scruffy" and the interior is a dust magnet. The material used on the seats particularly are prone to attract a lot of dust and small particles of whatnot. There are speakers on all four doors - something I noticed in other contemporary Hondas as well - the doors also have the same dust-attractive upholstery. I told you there's only a repair kit - but the good news is there is a bit of space in the rear that can double up as storage space or a spare wheel well - so if you're paranoid about having only a repair kit, you can easily carry around a spare The cockpit is contemporary Honda fare. The steering wheel itself is quite plush and has a nice feel to it - though the steering itself is light which I will talk about when i have an entry regarding handling. The usual controls are all there including the cruise control buttons and beneath the wheel you can find the paddle shifters (again paddle shifters + CVT is something i would talk about later) The control for the lane keep assistant is also in the steering wheel. Mind you the Wiper control stalk is on the right and the headlight control stalk is on the left - takes a bit of getting used to if you've previously driven JDM's only. The "Auto" mode in the Wiper means that it will enable the rain sensing wipers and depending on the amount of rain you get the speed will adjust as well. Nice touch but i personally feel it's a bit too dramatic. If i remember correctly the SE grade does not have rain sensing wipers. This being the SR grade you do not get a push start you need a key - the Push start button is there only on the EX trim. With the honda sensing package you get some features like proximity alerts, automatic breaking and lane departure warning. These can be turned on and off and the switches are located near the ignition on the right hand side along with the headlamp leveling switch. The shifter console includes the parking brake (yes there's no separate lever for that), the brake hold button (so your foot can be taken off the brake in for example color lights) there is also a button to toggle the eco-mode as well as to turn on and off auto-braking. Between these two buttons you would find the adaptive damper button on an EX-trim car. There cubby hole is quite small and disappointing given the fact that this is not an alto- and there are no individual cup holders etc - there is a circular holder that can easily accommodate a bottle in the storage area below the slide-able arm rest. This storage area also has a usb port that can be used with the infotainment system. However it has to be said both the usb outlets in front are not in the most accessible places. The other usb slot is practically invisible and hidden by the armrest console along with the HDMI port and Next to that is the 12V circular power outlet. Mind you there is another 12 V power outlet in the boot as well - handy when it comes to plug in your car vacuum. There is also dual zone climate control - other than the dedicated climate control panel fan speed etc can be set via the touch screen.
    1 point
  3. Are you guys serious? 20 year old cars for tourism? Cars of that age are in suddas' junkyards. Even if they are in great condition, tour companies don't accept them. For 2.3 million, you don't have any option except Geely (Micro) MX7. That too, a used one.
    1 point
  4. Well the waiting room itself is quite nice and comfortable (at least to Sri Lankan standards that is) it's air-conditioned and there is a clean bathroom, comfy sofas to sit on, a television set to watch, magazines to read, water dispensers and they serve drinks... and their charges are very reasonable compared to Toyota Lanka and Stafford. The downside is you cannot really see what's going on with your car from up there Edit: @Davy could you pls move our posts discussing "Routine service and repairs at the agent" to a separate thread
    1 point
  5. Pictures or it didn't happen yea? Lightweight Chrome-Molly Flywheel weighing in at 3KG: Re-engineered transmission mounts (Genuine E21 mounts with an aluminium casing): SACHS clutch kit: Revshift polyurethane engine mounts: Shifter rebuild : More drive-line + clutch bits:
    1 point
  6. Nothin wrong with your car,.. just taking the car's age/mileage into consideration, it's ok.
    1 point
  7. Haven't planned on selling it yet, even if I do sell, it will be in like 3-4 years or even more.People say if we maintain these right they will run past 300,000 Kms without any trouble I may sell it if Toyota comes with a new Hiace, that is the 300 series, but I wouldn't buy it immediately after the release. Toyota did release an update to the 200, that is GDH201 and GDH206 which comes with a 1GD-FTV engine mated to a 6 forward transmission. I don't have any idea of upgrading it to it.
    1 point
  8. What's the issue with the rocker cover? Is it plastic on the Viva Elite? No, they're not critical jobs. Even you can do them at home given you have the proper tools. I've seen people recommend Janatha Motors for Viva Elite parts. Get a quote from there and take it to a good garage. Tagging @Sampath Gunasekera as he might be able to advise as well.
    1 point
  9. I also recommend you to buy the Toyota from the list. Look for a well maintained car with records. (Preferably service records and import documents as well). Also with no makabass modifications. A basic car is better than one with bells and whistles fitted in srilanka, even for the same price. Look for a specimen with one owner only. It is gonna be a real difficult to find such a vehicle. Also it wont be cheap. (In my case i bought a 2008 allion 2 years ago for more than 1.5 laks above the market price. Made peace with that decision given that i will be using it for the next 6 or 8 years.) It wont have the latest tech but will serve you reliably to get from point a to point b. It is a simple, moderate comfortable vehicle with average fuel economy and space. Typical Toyota feel is there and it is good for long drives. Some guys may not like it much. I bought the car at 80k and added nearly 20k. So far i have done only the routine service, rear shock replacement and one hid bulb replacement. Look out for ac and cvt issues. They are the weakest points in allions and premios. And most jdm cars. Dont buy it for the market value or fuel economy. I have seen the trend where allions and premios loose value now. (All cars depreciate anyway) And if you buy such a car please please maintain it properly. Dont take shortcuts. (Dont take it to other agents like the guy in another thread did ??.) It will be good and cheaper for you in the long run. Toyota 161 axio is also a good choice. but you will loose some space. again the key factor is maintenance.
    1 point
  10. You are absolutely correct.. I do also have a Premio 2013 G Superior Model.. The Best Toyota Car with all the specific features which you have mentioned and well suit for a reliable & long lasting usage with high second hand market value at any given time..
    1 point
  11. Not true...there are plenty of car enthusiasts who go for Aquas, and Wagon Rs..and other type of kei cars. Because true car enthusiasts would buy cars that serves a purpose the purpose (for example they might not see the practicality of driving around their loved classic or hyper car or tuned road car on a daily basis through traffic just to get from home to the office whilst getting stuck in traffic for 2 hours). Even in Japan....car enthusiasts have amazing cars but also have other types of cars to meet specific needs.
    1 point
  12. Happy Saturday gentlemen! Two hours, two bleeding fingers and one burnt hand later, I have managed to get the coilovers installed at a garage of a friend. Would have taken longer if not for the hoist, air tools etc. Let's take a look at how she looked before: The top photo actually looks like the car is on a jack or something. But that's how bad the wheel gap was. And as seen from the two photos below, I can *clears throat* put my fist in the front wheel gap and and three fingers in the... um.... rear. ? I was too busy bleeding from my fingers trying to get the rear damper extensions installed, so no pics of the install. But here's a shot of the front and rear coilovers installed: And here's the top view of the front. My friend mistakenly installed the camber plate diagonally and had to remove them again to install them properly! This is the damper adjustment extension routed into the trunk through an opening in the strut tower. Had to use a screwdriver and a hook to pull it into the trunk. Those metal edges are really sharp. Should have worn a pair of gloves. BC racing has really thought about this tbh. If not for this extension, it's impossible to adjust damper force as the top of the strut isn't visible from the trunk due to the chassis design. And voila... here she is after the install. Couldn't be more happier. This is not the final height. I'm still playing around with it. The rear tyre rubs on the wheel arch when going over bumps and uneven road surfaces, so I will have to roll the rear arches a tiny bit. Fronts are perfect. I think I like the front height more than the rear, but I might change my mind. Enough of the chit chat. Here you go... Close-up of the wheels with the centre caps on finally! No room for fists or fingers now. I can't even park the car in my parking bay the way I used to anymore because the front is low. It hits the stopper on the floor of the parking bay (see first image). So I park the car the other way. I used to park like this because it's easier to take the car out, but now I need to do a three point turn to take the car out. The million dollar question - does it handle better? The difference in handling is pretty significant. The RalliArt handles pretty well out of the factory, but the new coilovers has transformed the car's handling to a whole new level! I can now confidently throw a tight bend at the car at much higher speeds and expect it to effortlessly take it. And the car stays planted on the road. Such a massive reduction in body roll. Out of the box, the factory damper setting is set to about 75% (8 notches down from 30) hard. I cranked it down two notches so now it's a bit more soft and surprisingly comfortable as well! I'm still playing around with that as well though. Overall, it has certainly been a worthwhile upgrade. I wish I had done it sooner. The car sits so nicely now and I'm really happy with the outcome. Stared at the car for about half an hour before driving off. Next up, I want to wrap the roof in black. Not looking for anything fancy, just cheap vinyl stickers from eBay. Cut to size and paste. Will probably DIY that as well. Also, after the BBS rims were installed, the brake calipers are really visible. So I want to paint them (red) and give a general clean up under the wheel wells. Stay tuned for those. Lastly, I have the BC Racing stickers that are still in the packaging. I'm in two minds if I want them on the car or not. If I were to install them, they will be going on glass (rear windscreen - one sticker, small glass on rear doors - one per side) unless it's under the bonnet. Thoughts? Thanks for reading! Comments are always welcome.
    1 point
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