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  1. 17 points
    It's been little more than 4 years with my Hiace and it has done around 76,000kms so I thought its time I give you guys an update on it. Let me start the blog with the basics, Mine is a Toyota Hiace KDH206, this variant of Hiace is fitted with a 1KD-FTV turbo engine with an all wheel drive system. The AWD system in the KDH series is pretty much full time, it runs on all four wheels normally and if any of the wheels experience a slippage, the vehicle stops sending power to that specific wheel. There is a noticeable difference between the AWD variant(KDH206) and RWD variant(KDH201). The KDH206 is around 100kg heavier and you could feel that through the steering when you drive one. In addition, the KDH206 feels far more planted at higher speeds and around corners than the RWD variant. However the downside is that the full time AWD system drinks bit more fuel than RWD version. Cost of Maintenance In short the Hiace is not cheap run, I get fuel economy of around 6km/l in kandy and around 9-10km/l outstation, the RWD KDH201 would return around another extra 2km more per litre. Hiace is originally fitted with 195/80R15 8ply tyres and they cost around 22-23.5K per tyre from brands like Continental or Pirelli, while Maxxis tyre could be found for around 16k. The Hiace requires 0W-30 oil and a regular service which needs to be carried out every 5000km costs around 10K using Toyota oil, I was using Toyota oil filter as well, but now I have switched to VIC. ATF oil must be changed around every 40k kms, I change air filter and cabin filter every year. It requires super diesel and this is an absolute must, if you regularly pump auto diesel you will pay more in repairs than what you saved by pumping auto diesel. The most likely issues you would get from pumping auto diesel are DPF, which costs around 70-80k to replace and injectors, which would set you back around 500k for all four. So far I had to change only a bush which costed around 50rs, apart from that I have not had any repairs. Performance The Hiace pulls pretty well for a vehicle which weighs 2 tonnes, the 1KD-FTV with a variable nozzle turbo produces 100kw at 3400RPM and 300nm of torque at 1200-3200rpm and it is connected to a 4 speed conventional automatic gearbox. Overtaking other vehicles with Hiace is pretty easy, you just have to put your foot down, the turbo will come to life and you would be gone. It is always on the right gear, there's no unnecessary downshifts or up shifts, the gearing ratios are perfectly synced with the power band of the engine although it is only a 4 speed gearbox in a world of 6 and 7 speed gearboxes. The Hiace properly comes to life on hill climbs with the help of low end power and variable nozzle turbo. Handling is fairly good for a van, it handles better than large SUVs. The KDH series has much less body roll compared to the previous LH series, but it isn't great as handling of a car. I notice the difference in handling when I drive the Hiace after driving our Bluebird which has front and rear independent suspension. Comfort It doesn't handle large potholes and bumps as good as a car, but it does manage to soften small potholes pretty well. The diesel engine noise is evident compared to a hybrid or petrol vehicle but the noise reduces when the vehicle gets to the third gear or at around 70+ km/h speed. The A/C is epic on the Hiace, it is one of the best cooling A/C I have come across, I rarely have to set the A/C temperature below 26 degree Celsius on auto mode and that is without the dual A/C. There is plenty of space inside, 7 or 8 people could travel on long journeys with their legs stretched out and not crammed. The second row seat is the best place to be in, you get the dual A/C right in front of you, it is acoustic sweet spot and minimal sunlight enters the cabin. Practicality It is quite a practical vehicle if you are using it occasionally or for long journeys as it can seat 8 comfortably yet carry plenty of luggage(you could fit around 4-5 large travelling bag placed horizontally), it has got atleast double the amount of luggage space compared to a Noah/Esquire. However it is bit of waste of money if you are using it on daily basis as fuel bills are gone be crazy and parking these are not that easy within city limits. In addition, maneuvering these around narrow roads requires some skills especially roads with tight bends. Second hand value and parts Selling a KDH isn't difficult at all, if you maintain them right there will always be people willing it to buy it from you. There are plenty of body parts available but 1KD engine parts are bit difficult to find and even if you do find, it will be expensive Some used parts prices are: Pair of tail lights: 15k for older design and 30k for new design Pair of headlight: more than 100k without the HID unit Rear door: around 40k Fog lights: around 20k What I have done with my Hiace The Modellista body kit came with the van from Japan itself and I added the Modellista grill later on Original Toyota spoiler which came painted pearl white I tinted the fog lamps yellow with Nightbreaker bulbs in them I have also replaced the rear seats which are rotatable and come with a table as well I have done some electronic mods as well, Installed a transcend DrivePro 200 Carrozzeria tweeters with crossover and JBL component speakers with crossover(thanks to @TheFlyingFox) https://streamable.com/ujkce I was planning on installing FIAMM horns, but the JDM side of my brain took over and I went with Mitsuba Alpha https://streamable.com/nbipn Note: click on the links to access the videos My dad had the body kit removed for a short period of time and during that time I drove it through some muddy terrain. It did well.
  2. 15 points
    My fellow AL Guys, I have been an avid autolanka member since I got my first car (Mazda demio) back in 2017.One thing that always intrigued me was how much AL members loved their lancers. So I always thought to my self what would it be like to own one. I have read every posts/discussions related to lancers ( AL Famous BRATT tread- that was one hell of a tread and I read all 32 pages of it) and I always questioned myself "is this actually good as members claim it to be? so I decided a give it a try. Long story short, when I saw this advert on autolanka about a month a back my eyes were completely fixated on this beauty. it was one of the most beautiful lancers I have seen. However at that point I had some other personal issues to take care of and my mind was not in a good mood to concentrate on the car. After sometime back I was surprised to see the lancer was still on classifieds. I thought it would be gone. So I contacted the seller, who confirmed me that the car was still available. I was over the moon and 2 days after I went to inspect the car and that was it. Knew she was meant to be mine.I paid an advance after inspecting and reserved the car for myself. ( hats off to the previous owner who is a Known lancer enthusiast for properly taking care of the car) It took another 2 weeks to sort out the finances for myself ( to sell my Demio and arrange the rest of the funds). and Last Friday I brought the lancer to my rural village. couldn't be more happier. I would like to thank AL members specially Davy,Trinity and the rest of the AL Lancer guys who made me a lancer lover and eventually an owner.So without further ado I bring to you " Evangeline" ( I bought this ride for her.Had to name the car after my daughter). More pics and updates to follow.
  3. 12 points
    The first thing that struck me when i sat down to drive this for the first time was the really low seating position - it did not take a lot of getting used to though. The height is of course adjustable and provides a much comfier driving position. The passengers seat on the other hand though cannot be height adjusted. The rear seats too don't have the fabled "magic seats" functionality where you can fold up the seats to increase space in the rear - but you can fold the seats down to create a humongous amount of boot space - I do not quite remember the exact capacity but it's quite a lot. Due to the shape of the roof , while the rear seats are quite comfortable and have a decent amount of space for your legs you might feel a bit of head room is missing. But it won't really translate into a problem - unless you are from Marhsall Eriksen's family . The SR grade (and the SE) for that matter comes with fabric seats - and the interior is black by default (for all grades) . So no "Baij Interiyal" advertisements on the classifieds for this model then. The materials for the seats are quite "scruffy" and the interior is a dust magnet. The material used on the seats particularly are prone to attract a lot of dust and small particles of whatnot. There are speakers on all four doors - something I noticed in other contemporary Hondas as well - the doors also have the same dust-attractive upholstery. I told you there's only a repair kit - but the good news is there is a bit of space in the rear that can double up as storage space or a spare wheel well - so if you're paranoid about having only a repair kit, you can easily carry around a spare The cockpit is contemporary Honda fare. The steering wheel itself is quite plush and has a nice feel to it - though the steering itself is light which I will talk about when i have an entry regarding handling. The usual controls are all there including the cruise control buttons and beneath the wheel you can find the paddle shifters (again paddle shifters + CVT is something i would talk about later) The control for the lane keep assistant is also in the steering wheel. Mind you the Wiper control stalk is on the right and the headlight control stalk is on the left - takes a bit of getting used to if you've previously driven JDM's only. The "Auto" mode in the Wiper means that it will enable the rain sensing wipers and depending on the amount of rain you get the speed will adjust as well. Nice touch but i personally feel it's a bit too dramatic. If i remember correctly the SE grade does not have rain sensing wipers. This being the SR grade you do not get a push start you need a key - the Push start button is there only on the EX trim. With the honda sensing package you get some features like proximity alerts, automatic breaking and lane departure warning. These can be turned on and off and the switches are located near the ignition on the right hand side along with the headlamp leveling switch. The shifter console includes the parking brake (yes there's no separate lever for that), the brake hold button (so your foot can be taken off the brake in for example color lights) there is also a button to toggle the eco-mode as well as to turn on and off auto-braking. Between these two buttons you would find the adaptive damper button on an EX-trim car. There cubby hole is quite small and disappointing given the fact that this is not an alto- and there are no individual cup holders etc - there is a circular holder that can easily accommodate a bottle in the storage area below the slide-able arm rest. This storage area also has a usb port that can be used with the infotainment system. However it has to be said both the usb outlets in front are not in the most accessible places. The other usb slot is practically invisible and hidden by the armrest console along with the HDMI port and Next to that is the 12V circular power outlet. Mind you there is another 12 V power outlet in the boot as well - handy when it comes to plug in your car vacuum. There is also dual zone climate control - other than the dedicated climate control panel fan speed etc can be set via the touch screen.
  4. 9 points
    Now I've heard it all... a Honda with an insect fetish. This proves your car is a female though. No male car would ever be able to have a second full-blown orgasm within 5 minutes of the first one.
  5. 8 points
    Here are the pics at the end of the car restoration... Couldn't update the blog yet because this time i basically replaced almost a lot of parts and so much to write,,. will update it when i get some free time... didnt do any photoshoot even, just took pics while driving and here you go.. The paint code is DEEP BLACK PEARL btw... Thanks in advance for the compliments
  6. 8 points
    Finally she’s here😁Thanking all the members who helped me in various ways💪
  7. 7 points
    It's been a while since the last entry where I rambled on about the minor details but now for the all important part how does this actually drive. I've done over 5000 Km's now and I guess spend enough time with the car to give my honest feedback on how it handles etc. I'm not going to dwell on the statistics and figures since that is readily available on the internet - but for formalities sake the Civic comes with the P10A2 engine - Honda's 3 cylinder turbo charged engine which has somewhere between 125-130 BHP. So the overall driving experience ? Well it's adequate and after the break-in period it seems the car is actually quite eager than it was initially. There is a bit of turbo lag and coupled with the torque at low revs you feel a bit like driving a diesel ....no complaints though. A question I usually get from some people is whether this model comes with the much maligned DCT - well surprise surprise it does not. Honda have mated the P10A2 with a CVT. Of course there is always the manual and that is actually supposed to be great as per reviews from the UK - but considering I use this car to drive daily to and from work in the colombo traffic I had to be a masochist to opt for a manual (which I'm not - and god bless future me when I try to sell a manual in Sri Lanka ) . Those who have driven the GP5's and Graces know that the Dual clutch set up is actually a blast to drive - which is not the case with the CVT. My previous car also had a CVT gear box and frankly I'm not a fan of them at all. But then given how DCT's fared locally I guess having a rubbery CVT over a DCT setup is not a huge deal. All grades of the FK6 comes with paddle-shifters - now I know it's a bit funny to see paddle shifters and CVT in the same sentence but what the setup actually does is have more of a simulated shifting mechanism going when you use them. When you're in normal 'Drive' mode you can use the shifters to change gears but the car is too eager to override you and kind of spoils the fun. However if you change your gear to 'S' then the HUD will display an 'M' indicating that the car is ready to receive manual input and a blinking indicator also indicates when the time is right to shift up. Of course if you don't shift at the right moment the car will give you some time and after a while will override you. S mode, and the 7-Speed CVT with the shifters is a little fun time to time but I think it's there more as a gimmick to be perfectly honest. I will upload a video on this later on and update the entry. There is an ECO mode which can be enabled/disabled by a switch on the gear shifter console. Turning off the Eco mode will give you a more fun driving experience as the car is much more peppier. For more fun on an open road shift to S and use the shifters. I use the E03 expressway daily and that's where this car really feels home at. I mentioned the low end torque - around 2250 RPM there is a sweet spot and you can feel that pull. Due to it's dynamics the car feels very well planted and very stable at high speeds. You just feel the car hugging the road and hurtling forward - which is a really nice feeling. The handling is quite good -the steering is a little lifeless but adequately sharp and the ride is very controlled. I drive an SR which does not have the adaptive damper system found on the EX. The ride is generally smooth even with some potholes - though I cannot give any feedback about the rear since I've never actually traveled in the back seat. Road noise is something I've always associated with Honda's and once again this is no exception though the road noise insulation is comparatively better than that of smaller cars like the Fit. But it does a good job of cutting out the racket from that noisy 3 pot engine - which believe me is quite loud and rough when you actually open the hood and take a look. But inside the car it's generally quiet. To sum it up ... Cars with downsized engines for the sake of reducing emissions and improving gas-mileage are not meant to be fast performance cars in the first place. But Honda have tried to give the driver a bit of feel-good factor with the fake air vents and the paddle shifters and the overall 'sporty' feel. I wish it didn't have the CVT gear box and the steering was a little less lighter. But the noisy little 3 pot engine pulls really well given it's size and the weight of the car. The 1L Turbo Civic is no Type R but for a bird with clipped wings it flies pretty well. And now for the FAQ Section ---------------------------------------------------- [1] "Nice car bro how does it do on fuel ? " : I drive in generally bad traffic I wouldn't claim it to be the worst since I don't travel to areas like Rajagiriya/Dehiwala etc. And the car returns around 7-8 KMPL. On general I get about 10 KMPL in a 50-50 City/Suburban drive. On the Expressway I get around 6L/100Km which means about 16.6 KMPL. On the average long distance drive on non expressways depending on the time of the day the car will do between 12-16 KMPL. [2] "The car is a bit low isn't it? " : One fear I had earlier about the car before purchase is it's low ground clearance - somehow I have found it to be ok so far. I recently traveled on one of the most horrible roads I have seen in the western province - it was a tiny impossibly narrow dirt road with immense pot holes and pieces of rock jutting out leading to an almost forgotten home for the senior citizens where we had to give dinner. It was a hellish drive in pitch darkness but somehow i got through without a single scrape. For a better understanding I will try to upload some daytime pics of the said road. [3] "Aren't the back seats a bit cramped?" Leg-space wise no. There's quite a lot of leg space . The thing is due to the curved shape of the roof some may feel that head-space is a bit lacking. The only person to complain so far was my 6'3" /125Kg cousin. So unless you're some behemoth you are OK. Having said that I must say the Civic is a little too driver oriented with a lot of care given to the driver and lesser focus to the passengers: for instance the seat height adjustment is not available for the front passenger. It's a little darker in the back too.
  8. 6 points
    Corolla 121 can be introduced as one of the most popular cars in TYPICAL SRI LANKAN vehicle market. Even being aged closed to 20 years they still sell around 3 million. So still most buyers are interested about this car, and I planned to share my 7 years of experience in this blog. I used a 2000 manufactured G Grade one which has a 1500cc engine. What it really is? Just a compact car designed for A to B transportation with good fuel economy and realiability. Driving So I’m going to start from how it is like to drive. When compared to the other cars in the same category the acceleration is really good for a 1.5L motor. The car is comparatively lighter than the 110 and Axio, so for me I’m yet to experience a better acceleration from a newer car with the same engine. It has good kick down acceleration due to 4 speed automatic transmission. For me the engine performance is better than the Civic ES5(1.5l), Mazda Axela 2004-2009, Lancer CS series and Nissan Tiida. Handling is a bit sharper than the newer Axios,Allions and Premios, but not sharp as a Honda or a Mazda. Steering is really light with a very little amount of feedback from the road. Due to the rear torsion beam setup the car is not steady in corners when compared to the older 110 and Carinas(which has independent rear suspension). But it is comparatively better in corners than the Axio.Braking is ok. Neither great nor bad. When it comes to handling Hondas and Mazdas are better. On the highways the car is steady for speeds around 100-120. After 120 there was a slight vibration(due to the resonance of the engine) but when you accelerate further around 140 the vibration goes away. There is a noticable change in stability after 140 as you can feel the car is well planted than before. You can go all the way upto 180 without any issue ONLY IF YOUR CAR IS IN PERFECT CONDITION(TIRES, ALIGNMENT,BRAKES AND SUSPENSION). I’ve tested twice and really impressed. For day to day driving around the town the car is good due to reduced length and good ground clearance. Ground clearance is really good when compared to other cars from the same class and even with never Fit,Grace and Prius. The light steering really helps for easy manouvering. Visibility is okay, but sometimes the thick front A pillars are a bit disturbing. Also there is a problem about visibility when the dashboards is reflected from the windscreen during direct sunlight. Driving position is pretty higher like most other Toyotas and not sporty at all. Feels like you are sitting on a chair. Comfort When I bought the car it was running on its original shock absorbers. But in 2015 I changed them using Japan made KYB Excel G and it reduced the the comfort level by a considerable amount. But the car is more comfortable than Mazda Axela, Honda Fit GP1 and GP5, Civic FD3, Honda Grace and Vezel, Toyota Aqua. I can really handle potholes well, but bumps can make the car wavy due to the rear torsion beam setup. The refinement levels are really good when compared to the above mentioned set of cars and it is another field that the 121 really excels. Under lightfooted driving the engine noise can’t be heard, and road noise levels are much lower. After long journeys I felt less tired than the Gp5 and Gp1. Seats are really comfortable and are a bit firmer than 110,FB15 N16s, but not firm as the Allion Premio 260 2007-2012 F grade and Hondas and Mazdas. One thing that I noticed was the rear seat thigh support is better than the Premios and Allions. Seat space is okay of you are under 6ft. Front seats feel a bit cramped due to the dashboard design beacause I’m 6ft. I always felt that Front seats are less spacious for me when compared to the other cars, even the GP1 is better. Fuel Economy Another area that this car excels. Based on my personal experienced around the town it does only about 9-10 kmpl with full time ac on 92 octane(because I live in a really hilly area). For trips like Colombo to Kandy it car return around 14-15kmpl with full time AC. It returned well over 18kmpl when travelled through highway to matara and longer trips with less traffic with 3-4 adults on borad. Also note that driving pattern hugely affects the economy level. Slow driving will never return good fuel figures. Maintaining a speed level around 70-80 will return really good fuel figures. After the first few months I never calculated fuel figures since it is much less expensive to run. Reliability This is the car which made me a Toyota fan. It never broke down. Never even had to touch the spare tire. I had done 60,000km (93,000km to 153,000km). I only had to do the running repairs and replacements. Did the tuneups and changed the ATF fluid once for every 40,000km. Used only Toyota oils.Did the services on time and never let the “makabasses” touch the car. Changed the AC cooler. Changed one hub razor. Only the running repairs. But remember that most of the cars up for sale have been through much abuse and therefore don’t expect the same level of reliability from every car. Make sure to set aside about Rs.100,000 for the repairs when you are buying a car. Also note that some cars have manufacturing defects, eventhough the car model is proven reliable. I know a guy who sold his 2010 personally imported Allion after doing 60,000kms due to excessive repairs. That depends on your luck. Options Has a good amount of options considering it’s age. Always go for a G, G limited or a Luxel grade if you buy one. I will do another entry explaining about all the grades and options. Build Quality Interior is really good with soft touch materials on the dashboard and upper doors. All trim pieces are solidly fixed so I never experienced any “creeks”. Interior material quality is better than the 141 Axio and 2nd and 3rd gen Prius. Good when compared with the cars of the same category. Notable Faults with the car -The steering rack is issue is famous with these Toyotas. It gives no problem except for the “duk duk” noise when travelling on bad roads. I repaired it but again after 3-4 months the noise came. Best thing is to replace it with a good reconditioned part. -As mentioned before the dashboard’s reflection on the windscreen reduces the visibility during direct sunlight(only when the sunlight falls directly on the dash) -The center console has a small compartment, just over the ash tray and the lid of it was broken from the begining and in most 121’s I’ve seen it broken. -Discoloration of the headlights is pretty fast due to the shape of the headlights Resale The car was sold over a month ago keeping me a 150,000 profit even after 7 years of usage. Remember that if the price is right you can easily sell it. I was quoting a really high price earlier and got a chance to sell it keeping 275,000 profit. But at that time I had no car to move on so gave up the idea(3 months ago). I advertised the car on a not-that-much-famous site on internet and next day morning two boys came for inspection and in the evening gave the advance. He still calls me due to satisfaction.😃 Really I loved the car throughout it’s stay with me for 7 years. Really a good car which is suited well for the Sri Lankan conditions and Typical Sri Lankan car buyer’s requirements. Make sure to look after the car well and it returns you with good reliability. Always use japanese parts and good mechanics for the repairs. Hope to do another entry to this blog about the Grades available in 121. This review is based purely on my experience and some details might differ from car to car. Please inform me if there is something inappropriate or wrong and welcome for all comments. I triend my best to provide and unbiased review.Thank you for reading👍 Cheers!!! -alpha17-
  9. 6 points
    Guys, As promised here are some updates with Pics. I gotta tell, there's nothing quite like waking up to see that wicked/aggressive face. that makes my day. Car is filled with ralliart accessories. I intend to keep the ralliart theme as it is.In fact ordered few more ralliart additions.In my view these are tiny little details which can go long way in terms of the overall aesthetic appeal. Too bad the Ralliart variant of the lancer is not available in Sri Lanka. DGR Coilovers (Highlight of the car IMO)- I am yet to play with these babies. First sedan I am owning and I got it with coilovers. I guess there's no going back again. Did some highway and main roads driving. Ride is buttery smooth and absolutely zero body roll. On Bumpy/rutted cross roads it's a whole different story. I can feel every pat-holes and bumps. I think this is contributed by the low profile tires used in the car. Ride is pretty low and Just to give you an idea of how low that is I can't fit my two fingers into the space between the tire and the wheel arch. More updates- Coming soon!!🙂
  10. 5 points
    All mechanical work on the project Moggie will discuss here. This was the differential original status. Cleaned & painted differential Back brake liners were wet with leaked differential oil because of weak oil seals. Found matching oil seal from local market and hope it will fix the leaking. Cleaned & painted brake shoes with newly applied liners. Cleaned and painted leaf springs Present status
  11. 5 points
    You are choosing ONE car -it could be a 27-year old japanese car, 8-year old indian car, 15-year old European car or whatnot. What you should be worried about, is that specific car. Not whether it is Japanese or Indian or Andromedian. Keep your options open. Assess a few cars and buy the one that would be in the best condition. Don't worry whether it is Japanese or Indian or Andromedian. However, in my experience, Ford Lasers hold on to their build quality far better than most other cars, even after they age. One reason could be because your average penny-pinching gamey goday person goes for Toyotas most of the time.
  12. 5 points
    Just give the car and take the money. No documentation needed. After about a month, if the CID visits your home, thats the only time u will need documentation.
  13. 5 points
    Well, he SHOULD know, he owns an Allion himself, prior to that a 121, so...
  14. 5 points
    If you ask me about which car to go for, if you have a budget of less than a million, these will be my choices. 1. Proton Wira - reason: you can get a newer car. Parts are not an issue at all, because most of the internals are swappable with Mitsubishi Lancer. Build quality is not bad. Don't be fooled by idiots who say 'Maleshiya ne... apo oka honda naa'. 2. Mazda Familia/Ford Laser - reason: I have seen many cars that are 25+ years old. NONE of them hold on to their build as much as Mazda and Mazda Fords do. Even after 25 years and 300,000kms on the clock, these cars just go on. 3. Toyota Corolla Wagon - another good workhorse. The sedan version (E100-series) is well over a million, but you may be able to find a wagon (what they call elephant back), with basic options for around that price. That's another car that just goes on and on 4. Doctor Sunny - Oldest cars in this list. If you can find a well maintained one, this is also another car that can take abuse Other honourable mentions are Toyota Starlet and Nissan March. Now let's come to your list: Daihatsu Charade - Wouldn't recommend because its an old turbo diesel engine. It's good if it works, but if the turbo packs up, good luck Ford Festiva - It's actually a Korean car made by Kia. Back in the 90s, Kia was an upcoming company. They made good cars, but your challenge will be finding spares. I doubt even ebay will have spares that you need. Mazda Astina - Again, spares will be an issue. Especially if someone decides to drop a rock on to the rear windscreen Nissan Y10 and AT170 - Both are decent cars, but I wouldn't pay 950k for these. Way too old That leaves the two Mazdas. From your list, those are the only two cars I will personally consider. Check whether they are carburetor or EFI. Always go for an EFI car. Old carbs are a real pain in the ass and there are no carb mechanics anymore. Auto or manual doesn't matter. If you are happy to drive a manual, go for it. Duplicate CR also doesn't matter if you are buying a car for personal use. Give a lowball offer. It's a bit tough to sell a car with a duplicate CR, but not as tough as people think. Most important is the condition of the car, so go for the one which is better maintained. Do you have photos of these two cars? can you post them (you can cover the number plate). I'd like to see whether they are BG5, BG6, BHA or BH6 or even BJ5/6.
  15. 4 points
    I own an Axio 141 (2007) with a 135,000km. So here are some of my knowledge on engine tune up which I've learnt on YouTube & forums along with the experience on my car. Tune up is a maintenance to make the car run RIGHT. Which is to increase performance, fuel efficiency & to reduce future repairs. 1. Changing engine oil. Change ur engine oil every 5,000 to 6,000 km. Always remeber engine oil is cheap but engine repairs are very expensive. I use 'Mobil 2000, semi synthetic 5W30' apprx 3.3 litres. I buy oils & filters at Panchikawatta (Mobil 2000 oil 1L 1200/=, VIC oil filter 1,000, toyota air filter 3,500 & cabin air filter 1,000) and i change it at a service centre for just 500/=. This way i save around 3,000 to 5,000 if i had it done at a service centre. 2. Oil additives. I've added Liqui Moly 'Ceratec' to my engine on my last oil change after lots of research on YouTube & reviews so i used abt 3.1 litres of 5W30 + 190ml of ceratec. I was pretty happy & satisfied with the results. Engine started to run alot smoother & quiter (less vibration even when starting a cold engine, quite idle plus my fuel economy has improved). This costs 3,600 yet its a long term investment which its effects might last upto another 3 or 4 oil changes. I highly recommend. 3. Filters. Its very important to change ur filters at the right intravels for optimal performance. Use OEM filters. Dont buy cheap oil & air filters to save money. Change ur oil filter on every oil change intravel and ur air filters if their dirty. Cz clean air filters helps to breathe clean uninterrupted air to the engine in return it gives performance & good fuel economy. Next is ur cabin air filter. Its very cheap so that u can change it at every oil change intravels for a cleaner A/C. 4. Throttle body & MAF sensor. This is a very simple DIY maintenance to improve cars fuel efficiency, performance & engine tune though many forgets. Just buy a Throttle body cleaner spray and a MAFS cleaner/Contact cleaner would cost 2,500 for both or less. There are plenty of videos on YouTube so plz refer before starting. Do the cleaning on every oil change intravels for keep ur car at its optimal performance. Trust me it will make a great improvement. 5. Fuel system. I've had very good experience of using Liqui Moly Injection cleaner (900/=) poured directly in to the fuel tank. Had noticeable changes in throttle response & a smoother idle with increase in fuel economy along with internally it helps to clean fuel injectors & more (I've used it before i add the ceratec so i know it made a difference, hence now with ceratec i see the same differances without it so i knw ceratec works good too! But to clean ur fuel system this cleaner would definitely helps). I suggest it to use it on ur every oil change or as the company suggests to use every 2,000km. But all i can say is that it works! 6. Spark plugs. Just check ur spark plugs at a service centre. Usually they lasts from 50k to 100k km depending on the driving conditions. So change them if needed. It only cost around 2,000 per spark plug. Hense bad spark plug means poor performance & bad fuel consumption. I changed & the results were just amazing. 7. Others. Good tyres. Tyre pressure. Coolant. Wheel alignment. Hope these would help. Good luck
  16. 4 points
    Yes. You need to get a cabinet paper approved through the parliament. Thereafter, you can bring one over. All the best.
  17. 4 points
    @alpha17 @Davy I added a new sub forum under Autolanka Forums as BLOGS and redirected to blog section. It should redirect forum users to blog section. Further I will also try to create a new section for AL blog posts in the AL home page. Cheers!
  18. 4 points
    The cars that you have asked questions about (Vezel, Allion etc.) have already been extensively discussed in multiple threads. Did you try searching the forum first? The "free knowledge" you're talking about is already available, you just need to search a bit. Vezel Search Results | Allion Search Results As for SEO, they work by looking mainly at tags and thread title. All search tags on this thread (defined by you) speak nothing of the actual model. It's "3 million car", "4 million suv" and so on, but your original post is about Honda Vezel. While I appreciate you making the effort to create search tags (some members don't even bother to do so), the tags you've created don't really help anyone searching for Vezel. Also, I'm not sure if you noticed, but I left your thread about Lexus RX 300 alone, because I searched and couldn't find sufficient information or an existing thread. Your threads have little to do with the actual models in question... it's about your inability to decide which one to buy for your 4 million budget. So the best course of action is to create one thread so that members can give their ideas about the cars that you are considering to help you make a decision. It's done to help you. Finally, there are new threads created every single day and if every member creates a new thread for each vehicle that comes into their minds, regular members here will have no other work than type the same thing over and over again. So you as a newbie should first try to search and try to find information on your own. So please continue your discussion here.
  19. 4 points
    You should PM a mod ( @Davy ) and send all the links of the posts you have opened so far on this matter - and ask him if he could merge them all to one thread - "Best vehicle for a 4 - 4.5 million budget". And get your username changed to "Posthard" or "Spamhard" while you're at it
  20. 4 points
    Technically, all cars with seat warmers have seat cooling. It just starts working as soon as you turn the seat warmers off.
  21. 4 points
    Well guess what yesterday I parked my car and about 30 minutes later the alarm went off for no apparent reason i was clueless so unlocked and locked the car again only for the alarm to go off 5 minutes later again. Finally found two flies copulating inside the car. 😐
  22. 4 points
    Unless you have a 2.0L Premio...you do not have a G - Superior Premio. If you have a 1.5 then what you have is a F or if 1.8 a X grade (probably L or EX package) with a G Superior dealer-package. The dealer package was just a few cosmetic additions. Not the actual G Supreior grade. In Sri Lanka 99% of the G Superior packages are not original ones either...the local dealers got the badges and OEM chinese parts or used parts and fitted them locally.
  23. 4 points
    Once upon a time, there was a guy named <insert your favourite name here> His child was suffering from fever. He took the child to a gynaecologist, because the gynaecologist charged less than a physician. The gynaecologist also tried his best to examine the child, took the money and finally said, you should take the child to a physician, because he has a newer digital thermometer than me. Now <insert your favourite name here> is wondering whether to buy the latest thermometer from aliexpress and asking his neighbours what's causing the fever.
  24. 3 points
    1. Priority 1: Less traffic (considering the holiday season) 2. Priority 2: Smooth roads 3. Priority 3: Less travel time How on earth can a road be sexy? Do you try to do weird things on roads?
  25. 3 points
    What was it call again? 🤦🏻‍♂️
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