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I dunno about the car, But that name itself is a big no no for me. Chick- what do u drive? guy- Nissan Dayz Highway star X! chick- ayyeh amma phone eka gatta, aye mata msg krnda epa.

Big time Audi fan / Owner. But the A1 is a POS on wheels! Just a fancy Alto with the badges on! (Iv had one as a rental in UK) The civic is much better than the A1.

Almost same mileage. It's the same R series engine. But never buy a Honda if you are that concerned with fuel consumption. Buy a premio or Allion. There are times i get only 7kmpl with heavy footed driving in my FD1. But IMO the experience is worth that 1000 bucks of fuel!

To find the cause you need to get a diagnostic scan done. This will reveal what the issue is. When creating topics, please use meaningful titles so that others can find information easily. "Dhammika" as the topic title doesn't mean anything.

Yes same car rebadged. parts are rare, as for reliability the platform hs been around the world a while, Its got lesser power than the suzuki keis but nice interior. The seating position and leg room is quite similar to a wagon R. The market for newer nissans are a bit on the drop anyhow. Take a look at the Mitsu EK as well, It shares some interior parts with 2010s Monteros lol.

FD is the 8th generation of civics and FB is the 9th generation. FB has Honda i-MID, USB, Multi-link Suspension , Projector Headlamps over the old FD series. Also different styling. But IMO double Wishbone suspension in FD is considered superior than the multi-link And FD has unique styling. They say the FD series Typer R (FD2R) is the last real NA Typer R! Also the 8th generation dashboard is just beautiful.

Gosh

VIRS conversion is a good idea but hardly the VIRS and and a manual Vi differ in performance .. Since both share the same motor with 130bhp. But VIRS come with different chassis and stiffed suspension ,all 4 disk breaks, abs and airbags together with few cosmetic modifications. As said in the previous reply save the money in FD and upgrade to a newer car in a while with improved safety features is a best option..Else try few mods like upgrading the breaks to disks and suspension to feel a difference in ride if you want put a nice set of wheels..But the performance should come with safety which I don't feel the 95 ek will deliver..I had a 95 Vi manual for 6 years and would say the ride was crisp through out the years but the there were some drawbacks when it come to safety which is ok for car that old. However if you are not in to track or drag I don't think spending too much in to performance will realy benefits.

Well....whether you should go for an upgrade or a new car is totally up to you....whilst in your mind you might feel that moving on to a newer car is the sensible thing to do, seems like emotionally your heart says otherwise. For a car guy, the logical/sensible path followed doesn't always end up being the emotionally gratifying one. Lets be honest, you are considering of buying a new car only because you got some money...not because you dislike your car and want an upgrade.. So....lets say you go for a newer car, you should not spend your entire budget on buying the car. You will have to save some money for unintended/unexpected/prudent repairs/services. So, the car is actually not going to be that much newer and you still have to do some fixing up. Since you have to do all that anyway with a car you know nothing of...why not take that money and just fix up the car you have with the things you want, the way you want it ? As I believe there are some pretty decent suspension, brake and engine options for your car. Or...just simply put the money in a FD...wait for a while and get a proper decent upgrade when you are good and ready for it (emotionally..as a car guy) Just for curiosity....any idea how much a ViRS conversion for your EK would cost ? That might be one option. If you do think you should follow your brain...then personally, I believe the Civic would be the better option. It does not feel as basic and plasticy as the Lancer and edges out both the 3 and Lancer in terms of driving pleasure and that extra bit of refinement. But c'mon...if you want to follow your brain ALL the time in regards to your wheels....be a good little boy and buy a "professional lady doctor owned Corolla 121 with just 67,000 original kilometers".

Yes. New inner CV joint for Cruze can not get in Sri Lanka. I also checked many places. Finally I get recondition one, but only could use for 6 months & again got noise. Then I got information about a place that repair inner CV. more than year which working without issue (2500/= cost per one, year before). New Outer CVs' you can find in G* Motors. its better carry old one to get new.

Mizyyyyy....!!! Good to see you on this forum..!! Yes, In few posts we discussed about Headlight upgrades. In short it was a pain aligning HID kits, then noticed fading on reflector (I guess due to access heat). Also had a tough time upgrading to 100w halogens. Had to change from wiring to a new alternator. I think its a better choice running with stock. I could not find a proper video to make my decision to buy Philips XtremeVision. Does not seem to have much difference. KMeeg (Kasun)

No dude. One of my friend did. I am in Katunayake. If you are around we could help. Nothing much. Just remove the switch and open by pressing the two locks. clean the circuit with a good contact cleaner and re-fix. You save Rs.30,000.00 for sure Thilak

Hi Kermit, Same thing happened to my friends Vezel 2014 and he replaced with a cost of Rs.28,000.00. Later we cleaned the old push start button by one of our electronic technician and fixed to another Vezel which indicated the same issue and it still running without any issue. now almost 10 months. I am using a GRACE 2014 and me too had the same issue and I fixed the Push start button which replaced from the 2nd Vezel after cleaning. My error indicator disappeared. cost me only fixing and scanning charge. We are now keeping one cleaned Push start button in our pool as stand by. LOL Try cleaning the contacts of your Push start button and fix. I am sure it will work as before.

This is old topic and i thought to share my present experience (also reply to asanka_rg) Do you still have steering rack noise on Chevrolet Cruze? I am happy to say I have resolved my steering rack daka daka noise last week. The issue was not with steering rack whole time it was with Steering shaft which inter connect rack to steering wheel. There is small play with steering shaft couplers and very noticeable loose with shaft joint (The joint which use for adjust the shaft). Problem found out by myself as this has been big headache to me as I have already replaced the whole steering rack few months back. To find the issue I drove cruze on potholes with my left foot tight to the steering shaft under the dash board and noise disappeared. Straight away went to the mechanic and replace the shaft. Very easy replacement just has to remove two bolts (shaft upper and lower) under dash board. Few used shafts found easily (removed from Suzuki swift steering column as they are same). I am pretty sure this steering shaft Play/rattle is a common issue on Suzuki swift and Cruze because I have replaced shaft twice. First one replaced also has play. Second one is OK. Another thing Chevrolet Cruze steering rack 100% identical with Suzuki Swift HT51 Model. every used parts shops mislead me except one place which I bought shaft. I have compared my old steering rack with swift rack they are same. When searching web for this issue I found following about steering shaft. http://www.ttora.com/forum/2-early-tacoma-tech/161689-diagnose-fix-steering-play-rattle.html They are suggesting put welding dot for shaft and repair but my mechanic says it will be risky for ECU and the electronic component and if you want to remove steering column first have to remove entire steering rack. Happy to say now my cruze not have any kind of noise from rack. I have attached few photos from my old shaft