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This is the same information I got, that these engines are already broken in. Ha ha ha.. Dude, he did say he had a kid right ? Doesn't "Stormy Daniel" sound like a good name for a 2 door ( ideally we need 3 doors) coupe which haunts you after you sold it off to someone after having a brief but a pleasurable drive? ?

Thought of maintaining a log of my experience with the new babe in this tread. I have had the car for just over a week as of now. Have had very bad weather for driving but did enjoy every second of over 600 km driving thus far. Going with the trend these days I did opt to go for a Ceramic Coating for the car before I got the delivery. The agent was very supportive in accommodating in getting my requirements done before delivery. The only advice given by the agent on 1st 1,000 km was not to rev the engine over 4,000rpm (the usual story in SL). But if I am not mistaken, apart from high revving the engine, constant rpm for a extended period of time is also not good during break in period and there is more to engine break in than just driving under a certain speed and RPM. The first proper drive was to Galle and reluctantly I had to take the highway due to horrid weather. Since engine was still breaking in, could not open the throttle as much as I wanted to and did not let the engine run at the same RPM for longer period. Even in lower RPMs the pick up of the car is absolutely stunning. The constant acceleration without gear shits needs a bit getting used to but I love it. Although many talks about the slight turbo lag, I havent noticed it thus far. The flaps let you override the gear ratio while driving (I know it is a CVT) in the Drive mode and gets back to its normal mode after few seconds, but in Sport mode, once you used the paddles to up or down shift, the car gets into manually up shifting mode. It stays the same until the gear is changed to Drive. (at least it is the only way I know to switch the manual mode off in "S". I am still going through the 600+ page Owner's Manual) The car's computer showed a average fuel efficiency of 5.5 liters per 100 km (just above 18kmpl) and averaged just over 15kmpl from full tank to full tank over 340km. Weekday Colombo running is still around 8kmpl and still I am not very convinced of the accuracy of the calculations of car's computer on fuel economy. I will update on the progress after the 1st couple of services. Cant wait to open the taps properly after the engine break in period. p.s: We generally have names for our cars. Keeping in with the tradition my daughter christened this one as 'Jackson Storm' (from Cars 3). 'Stormy' for short... So Stormy says "Hello World"!

Out of those cars, I'd go for either CS1 or CS3 - both cars are brand new imports and still has agent support. If you can find a CS3 in good condition go for it. More info on trim levels, courtesy of @Davy and @Sampath Gunasekera

Simply it is like this in my knowledge, MMC Lancer CS {1 to 9) {GL,GLX,..etc} CS = 9th Generation 2002-2007 & 2011 (CK was the previous generation ), There are three shell versions in SL, introduction & 2 face lifts later, Your GP-xxxx is introduction model and JG-xxxx is 1st face lift version 1 to 9 = Engine Capacity 1.3L to 2.4L , 1=1.3L , 2 (JDM) = 1.5L, 3 = 1.6L , 5 = 1.8 L, 7=2.0L 9=2.4L in my knowledge, Can be Carb, EFI, GDI engines, You can Find CSx in the Chassis number GL, GLX ...etc = Trim levels but individual options can be varied In SL you can find; GL = Mostly basic and can be even without ABS, EBD, SRS but sometimes have Radio, Alloy wheels, Spoiler GLX = better options but some times without factory radio, alloy wheels, Honda Civic ES (EK in the generation before that) also came in the same time of MMC Lancer CS, I think someone can add more on Civic You can go through below thread for more information on Lancer CS

Mitsubishi L200 1991

The red part is for airflow. The idea is the air is supposed to flow thorough it so that it makes the car a bit more aerodynamic as well as provide a bit of ventilation to the wheel well to cool down the brakes. Does blocking it effect it that much for a car that sits in traffic a whole load of time ? Your guess is as good as mine. But I would not block it...but that is my personal opinion. If you want to fit a fog lamp to the yellow circled area then you need to buy the entire black piece which has the fog light holes in it. you might be able to find one at a second hand body parts shop.

Thank you ramishkad. Haha, I would definitely have named her Stormy Daniels or some other name, but my daughter wanted to name her Jackson Storm. Fathers will always give in to what the daughters want eventually. So Jackson Storm it is. The 1st service at 1,000km is more or less a check up service. The 1st oil change is at 5,000 km. Some of the engines are broken in but some are not. From the research I did, in general performance cars are broken in and most domestic cars are not. So it is safe to and better to go gentle on the 1st 1000-1500 km. Nothing to loose.

So far no complains. Majority of the dust goes off with a normal spray of water. I was asked to use hair shampoo to wash the car by the guys who did the treatment. I still havent got the time to research the reason behind it. They claim the most car shampoos used in the car wash places have bleach in them and it is not good for the coating.

remove heater plugs with extreme care . old plugs would sometimes snap giving lot of trouble

Yep, glow plugs is what I would advise to get checked if you have to cycle the glow plugs several times before starting. As for having to prime the fuel pump after the van has sat idle for a few days, it could be quite a few things, but the fuel filter is the first thing I'd check as well. Then check for any leaks in the fuel lines. Especially the fuel return line from the injectors to the tank. I'm not sure if this is a sealed pump, if not, you can get a pump repair kit and overhaul it.

My first guess would be that the Li-Ion battery module under the front passenger seat would have come into contact with water. Take your car to a hybrid specialist (I think there are garages that specialises in the WagonR - specifically the hybrid). If the Li-ion battery has been compromised, then it's dangerous to drive the car, so better get it looked at immediately without assuming that leaving it overnight will solve the issue.

Does the engine show signs of low compression/old age? at your van's age I won't ask for the milage because it would have been clocked many a time .Does it start easily when hot? Get the glow plugs checked individually . A qualified auto electritian can do this.

The pump is leaking internally. replace the pump along with a new filter.

what about putting it apart and sending in boxes?

With all due respect, I disagree. You don't need all that if you're planning to start with a simple diploma first and then move on from there while working. We've got to work with what we have here, so I don't think Vihan should be discouraged just because he hasn't done maths for A/L. There are many options locally now. Government and private. See the links links and places shared by others above. http://www.icbt.lk/icbt/landpage/ ICBT HND in Automotive Engineering

Ok lets see Front suspension replacement - will cost you around 40k including labour, lathe , and wheel alignment charges.. By this i'm assuming that you change front 2 shocks with related bushes and boots, then lower arm bushes in the same time.. Clutch-if you are going all genuine its about 60k as Davy mentioned. Or if you are going aftermarket its about 25k without the pressure plate.. Clutch release bearing you gonna have to buy from the agents cuz its not available after market afik..thats why 25k Engine tune up 8k Tires 22k (bought 2 bridgestones couple of months back for that price) Dont know about the alternator thingy.. We'll assume another 5k for that.. So all sums up to around 95k to 130k in maintenance.. Lets say you bought it for 2.3mil and with all this your total debit would be 2.4mil.. And you know its mechanically sound and you could use it another few years without major issue.. Only question is are there any other cars in the market that could meet this criteria.. Only 6 years old..better fuel consumption..spacious.. Better ground clearance.. Driving pleasure..realiable and for just 2.4 million.. As for me.. I would still buy it..

The fact that the guy allowed u to do all that with the car sounds like he's genuine. and all the repairs you have quoted are actually running repairs u need to face with any second hand car. The fact that ONLY these repairs are required, shows that the guy has looked after the car quite well. So like everyone else, I would say... go get it. @ davy, machan I came across a 2003 facelift GLX couple of years ago which had only 1 airbag and no alloys for any wheel (had mitsubishi hubcaps). r u sure abt the spec?