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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/03/2018 in Posts

  1. My experience is it does half in Colombo city traffic. Experience from the old Swift 1.2, FIT GP5, New Swift 1.0 RSt
    1 point
  2. Stalker Alert!!! well it seems a little off doesn't it? but yes i used to live near a paddy-field ..... but not this one apparently
    1 point
  3. If it's a permit import there could be special conditions which would be deleted after some time Eg: Cannot be transferred until 3 years / 5 years... so and so... that would be deleted after the stipulated time period
    1 point
  4. I've mostly commuted to work, driving between the moratuwa area and Colombo 10 area. Fuel efficiency is about 11-12 Km/l in traffic. Can't really comment on handling but the vehicle is quite nippy at Colombo traffic speeds. It hits 70+ within a couple of seconds and the brakes are very good.
    1 point
  5. This indicate "check engine" so in my idea for fuel pressure issue won't indicate the check engine light on FB14, as they won't be fitted with a fuel pressure sensor (i might be wrong) This car need a "proper" scan by a "proper" scan tool with experienced tech not a bas who is doing the garage for last 40 years. without correct facts it is no point to go around different areas or come to conclusions. regards JC
    1 point
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  7. Well...apart frfom the Disco...what exactly do you consider as a "luxury" car ? For your budget you can easily find Audis, BMWs, Mercs and even high end Japanese cars that are much newer than a Disco 3.
    1 point
  8. The disco will be old and would have accumulated many repairs by now. Expect more if you run into a improperly maintained one. They have more repairs and will cost an arm and leg to fix. And they are expensive to maintain. So if you are ready for a lot of time at guarages and a hole in your wallet go ahead. But if you dont go ahead and buy a 120 prado or v76 montero (i would go for the monty ) They have comparatively less trouble and can be fixed for much less even at a local guarage easyly if any arises
    1 point
  9. Guess you have 2 wire actuator (or 5 ?). Try to connect a 12v bulb to those wires and see whether its working when you press lock-unlock buttons. This should test while door is in open position and close position.
    1 point
  10. I've used Mobil and Valvoline, never had a problem with either of the brands Use SAE 5W30, API SN / ILSAC GF If you choose a mineral oil the OCI is 6 months / 5000kms (whichever comes first) If you choose a full synthetic oil OCI is 12 months / 10000kms (whichever comes first)
    1 point
  11. Well if that's the case OP could get an automatic 141or a Tiida (2010+) for the same price
    1 point
  12. Thanks for the replies @Davy & @vag2 I went to UM today and they did the scan and detected the issue was that when they have done the front wheel Tyre rotation along with the wheel alignment the onboard computer had detected a change in the steering wheel center degree measurements compared to the actual wheel measurements (its hard for me to explain. from what i understood basically there was a issue with the steering wheel centering when the wheels are directed straight) . Hence the sensors went out giving the errors 4WD Service Error + ASC Service Error. Further they told me both those alerts are monitored under same section so both types of errors pops up when the vehicle computer detects something related to ASC/Wheel Speed Sensors. So they did another wheel alignment and fixed the Steering Wheel Centering issue and did a calibration through their software which fixed the error. They told me that the system calibration in the on-board computer needs to be done if there was significant change done during the wheel alignment and otherwise the system detects it as a fault and service indicators comes up. I hope i wont get any more heart attacks
    1 point
  13. This certainly related to electrics and ECU is playing up. Primary suspect is a loose connector of the ECU. Try to get those pins tension properly and see before you get into complex solutions. What was the tool they used to diagnose the problem?
    1 point
  14. I had the same problem with my first presea.. the cause was the fuel line was blocked as i can remember... a random guy who works at a paint garage took out the hose that connects to the fuel pump and cut the hose a bit and fitted it again and the car never stalled again.
    1 point
  15. Totally agree with @Davy. This is what most garage people propose to do. They see replacing parts/units blindly is the easy way to diagnostic.
    1 point
  16. That's not possible. Please go to a proper garage and use a proper diagnostic tool to scan. Even if the Check Engine light disappears, the ECU's error log keeps the last raised errors until they are cleared, so unless there's something wrong with the way the scan was performed, I don't see why they couldn't find anything. You can't jump into conclusions like that without even knowing what error was raised. There are so many other things that need to be investigated before concluding that the ECU is faulty.
    1 point
  17. As @Hyaenidae has mentioned, there are two positions to the stalk. The toggle behaviour is by design in Mitsubishi's. It alternates between low and high beam. The signal light switch (same stalk) has the same behaviour as well. Slight movement and hold for lane changing and push all the way and let go to lock the stalk in position and operate the signal lights until you manually switch off or when the steering return automatically switches it off. On the CY Lancer, lane change position flashes the signal light three times. On the CS, it needs to be held in position.
    1 point
  18. Are you sure you're pulling the lever switch all the way up? (1) Dipper (High/Low beam change) When the lamp switch is in the position, the beam changes from high to low (or low to high) each time the lever is pulled fully (1). While the high beam is on, the high-beam indication lamp in the instrument cluster will also illuminate. Headlamp flasher The high-beams flash when the lever is pulled slightly (2), and will go off when it is released. When the high-beam is on, the high-beam indication lamp in the instrument cluster will illuminate.
    1 point
  19. Congrats. Im too a happy and proud owner of 2016 axela sedan(15s Proactiv). Like you said people who advised negatively ,surprised big time by the looks, options and most importantly for the fuel figures. Sent from my [device_name] using http://AutoLanka.com mobile app powered by Tapatalk
    1 point
  20. Guys, Thanks a lot for your great support. But sadly i decided not to go for the Mazda 2. I thought it is useless to spend such money with the agents after reading your comments. Therefore I tried to find a good importer to bring down one from the Japan. Sadly I did not found a good one Including *ndra *raders, *shara *traders and lot more. Even two of people who I know gave me 7.8 Mil quote for Mazda 3 hatch with +15,000 KM mileage. And they did not gave me a proper breakdown for that price either. Finally I found a person through my friend with very good comment. He gave me all the details and procedure on how to import one. Also gave me the price breakdown, which is very reasonable. I found a good car (2017 Mazda Axela Sports. rating 5) with 15km mileage, 360 camera etc. I made an offer of JPY 1.625 Mil but the owner did not sell for that price (the same car was in one price websites for JPY 1.7 Mil). But my importer was able to negotiate with him for JPY 1.642 Mil. When we going to pay for that car, the auction system had increased the price again. So I dropped it. Next I found a good car with mileage less than 1000 KM, 2017 Mazda Axela Sports. I won it for JPY 1.595 Mil. I think it does not has 360 camera :(. Now it's on way from Japan :). The funny thing is I saw lately the car I was going to buy for 1.642 Mil was sold for 1.61 Mil few days back. @Supra_Natural Thanks a lot for convincing me to Mazda from Ford and your great guidance given me. Also Thanks a lot @iRage, @RWD for your valuable comments.
    1 point
  21. Dear all, I have an idea of buying brand new wagon R, please advice , what is the most secure method of buying . 01. Authorized dealer (A*W limited ) 02. Salers I had some post on social media regarding used vehicle sellin by the authorized dealers. Following link is for your refernce. Please kindly advice any user or experts. https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1614588025276866&id=100001770518765&refid=12&ref=opera_speed_dial&__tn__=*s Thanks.
    1 point
  22. That hardly affected the Japanese models. The US continental model had issues with the ECU software which messed up the shift points which pretty much wore out the transmission. But Toyota never had a recall for it...the recall/TS only covered the ECU re-flash/swap. Toyota claims that cars that got their transmissions spoilt; got it spoilt because of poor maintenance. You have the X-Trail, Vitara, CR-V and even the Pajero iO. There is plenty written about all these cars. Kindly do a search.
    1 point
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