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Skyline and Fuel Economy in one sentence? Ye gods... I wanna kill myself.

You are a insurer's nightmare, aren't you? If your current insurer has given you a proper service so far I do not see a reason to go for another. It is just that your risk rating has gone up for obvious reasons. Get a quote from another one and compare.

Well my dad had an at150 in the 1990s and it was a damn reliable car and very comfy. But now they are 30 years old anyway, they're a bit overpriced just check if you can get one in good shape for your budget

lower number 0w, 5w, 10w does not matter too much in SL as our ambient temperatures does not go below 20C (unless you live in Nuwara Eiya or so) But 30 will have higher viscosity (thicker) than 20 at running temperature which could have an impact on the engine friction, oil pressure etc. Better to stick with the manufactures recommendation. A*W may be using 5w30 or 10w30 as they might not have same grade of oil imported by them. This has been the case even some years back.

not the most common ride out there but should be ok - the only thing you might have trouble with is in sourcing body parts

and these are the same kind of car dealers who first said the Axela hybrid system is bad...until they realized its the same thing as Toyotas. You really can't take what car salesmen say seriously. Its always a case of what they usually import and have on their lot being the best models for SL and everything else being crap until they bring one down to sell. There is no such thing called a perfect car. They all have issues.

Probably the push start button. It's a common issue in Vezel, Fit and Grace. First better to get it checked. Repair will cost you around Rs. 25,000 for the new part and around Rs. 10,000 for used one.

Best place to get this checked is with Stafford motors, if not you can go to other third party places like hybrid hub and etc.

The majority of what you mentioned that appears to have failed in the cars you used appear to be cooling system related. It is a known fact that cooling system components need to be replaced with age, especially so on euro cars. Vacuum hoses are also age related failures usually and not really deal breakers. The N47 timing tensioner issue now has an upgraded part I believe.

Depends on many factors, such as condition of the engine, maintenance, driving style etc. Those figures were for a car in good running shape.

8-9 sounds fairly realistic for the 1.5 turbo as long as you don't drive it hard. Remember that the 1.0l has to work harder in most situations (even with the turbo, it needs to be on boost more of the time) as the Civic is a fairly large car, so 10 or so is acceptable, as it's basically the same as an old 1.5-1.6 non turbo would do (slightly better actually). Just because it's a 1.0l doesn't mean that it will do Alto level fuel consumption, I do hope nobody bought Civics thinking that as it would be hilarious! You can expect similar performance from the CRV, the 1.5l is an efficiency/emissions focused replacement for the previous 2.0l engine so fuel figures will be slightly better but you can't expect it to be amazingly so as the CRV is still a fairly big vehicle and the laws of physics still apply.

Suggest you search this forum- the car has been discussed before. I owned one myself and remember writing about it on this forum.

The first number (10W or 15W) has no meaning in tropical conditions. It is the cold start viscousity. But second number yes. Higher the number thicker the oil and vice versa. Usually , higher the temperature, lower the viscousity (i.e. thinner the oil) . As engine heated up, viscousity drops. This high temperature viscousity matters the performance, fuel economy, etc.. In modern synthetic oils these viscosity variations in higher temperatures are better controlled. In general, thicker the oil, better the protection for engine, but engine needs to work more to overcome the resistance. It may also have an impact on your fuel pumping and filtering system as well. If the oil is thinner it becomes more flowable and less resistance at higher temperature. For engines with higher mileage plus possible wear and tear may experience less fuel efficiency with thinner oils. Also drop in the oil level. That is why people go for higher thickness oils. In your case better to use SAE 40. Additonally refer the manufactured date of the oil. Generally the shelf life of motor oil is 2 years. It will experience natural decomposition even during the storage. Always change the filters at every oil change. I don't strictly go by the mileage for changing the oil. It depends on your driving habits, operating temperature of your engine, condition of your engine. All these standards developed by the Society of Automotive Engineers SAE Viscosity Grade[°C] Min. Viscosity [mm²/s] at 100 °C Max. Viscosity [mm²/s] at 100 °C High Shear Rate Viscosity [mPa.s] at 150 °C 0W 3.8 -- -- 5W 3.8 -- -- 10W 4.1 -- -- 15W 5.6 -- -- 20W 5.6 -- -- 25W 9.3 -- -- 20 5.6 <9.3 2.6 30 9.3 <12.5 2.9 40 12.5 <16.3 2.9 * 40 12.5 <16.3 3.7 ** 50 16.3 <21.9 3.7 60 21.9 <26.1 3.7 * 0W-40, 5W-40 & 10W-40 grades ** 15W-40, 20W-40, 25W-40 & 40 grades Reference: http://www.viscopedia.com/viscosity-tables/substances/sae-viscosity-grades/

Yes thats what I would do. But service stations like ste****g and au*****ge recommends 0w20. I know we should not trust third party warranty providers than the authorized dealer but could anybody can give a technical ELI5 on the diferences between the two oils and the effects