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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/12/2018 in all areas

  1. so I ultimately went with a vehicle not on my list [emoji5]️ Bringing down a Suzuki Swift full hybrid (rated at doing 32KMPL) which has a naturally aspirated 1.2L 4 cylinder engine, 1.5Kwh hybrid battery having an AGS transmission with hill hold control
    2 points
  2. The first number (10W or 15W) has no meaning in tropical conditions. It is the cold start viscousity. But second number yes. Higher the number thicker the oil and vice versa. Usually , higher the temperature, lower the viscousity (i.e. thinner the oil) . As engine heated up, viscousity drops. This high temperature viscousity matters the performance, fuel economy, etc.. In modern synthetic oils these viscosity variations in higher temperatures are better controlled. In general, thicker the oil, better the protection for engine, but engine needs to work more to overcome the resistance. It may also have an impact on your fuel pumping and filtering system as well. If the oil is thinner it becomes more flowable and less resistance at higher temperature. For engines with higher mileage plus possible wear and tear may experience less fuel efficiency with thinner oils. Also drop in the oil level. That is why people go for higher thickness oils. In your case better to use SAE 40. Additonally refer the manufactured date of the oil. Generally the shelf life of motor oil is 2 years. It will experience natural decomposition even during the storage. Always change the filters at every oil change. I don't strictly go by the mileage for changing the oil. It depends on your driving habits, operating temperature of your engine, condition of your engine. All these standards developed by the Society of Automotive Engineers SAE Viscosity Grade[°C] Min. Viscosity [mm²/s] at 100 °C Max. Viscosity [mm²/s] at 100 °C High Shear Rate Viscosity [mPa.s] at 150 °C 0W 3.8 -- -- 5W 3.8 -- -- 10W 4.1 -- -- 15W 5.6 -- -- 20W 5.6 -- -- 25W 9.3 -- -- 20 5.6 <9.3 2.6 30 9.3 <12.5 2.9 40 12.5 <16.3 2.9 * 40 12.5 <16.3 3.7 ** 50 16.3 <21.9 3.7 60 21.9 <26.1 3.7 * 0W-40, 5W-40 & 10W-40 grades ** 15W-40, 20W-40, 25W-40 & 40 grades Reference: http://www.viscopedia.com/viscosity-tables/substances/sae-viscosity-grades/
    2 points
  3. Attitudes like this basically sum up why two decade old Toyotas with half a million on the clock still sell to ignorant fools for millions in Sri Lanka. Mazda is a Japanese company with a very good reliability reputation over years of service, the only issues they have had consistently in the US are related to rust in the snowy states where salt is used on the roads - which is a non issue here in SL. Consumer Reports generally rates them quite highly as well, so I don't quite know where your data is coming from (Not 100% sure I don't have access to full CR data, so please do correct me if I'm wrong.) Also Scotty Kilmer is a loudmouthed hack who is more about the drama than actual substance, so maybe don't use him as an authoritative source.
    1 point
  4. 65 series was over just before the introduction of English numbers so 99 was given but here are only few.
    1 point
  5. Well..for starters even the Honda and Toyotas now come with small engine capacity turbo charged engines that are in fact high compression engines. These engines too are only a few years old and no one knows what their longevity is like. Mazda on the other hand...the skyactive engines have been around for quite some time and seen quite a few that have racked up quite a lot of miles. So yes..they (Mazda skyactiv engines) have the same concerns one might have with high compression engines; they have proven themselves to be as good as; and in certain aspects like the overall build quality of the car, to exceed this "apparent" quality of Toyotas and Hondas. Mazdas have been putting out amazing cars for the last half a decade or so and is giving Toyota (which is only survivng on its namesake) a run for its money. All those comments about Mazda high compressions might having issues is just paranoia of people stuck in the golden days of Toyota.
    1 point
  6. When I listen to some of the mechanic talks on Youtube on Mazda and Ford does not seem to have reliability compared to Toyota & Honda. (I Don't know, Just telling what I heard on YouTube. Eg - Consumer Reports, Scotty Kilmer, etc). Want I understood was when the engine have a high compression with Skyactive or Turbo the engines seems to wearout faster.BTW, I'm not a mechanic so I don't know how true what those Youtube videos are. Just for my safe side I just go with Toyota and Honda. I may be wrong, but I do use ConsumerReports reviews for some of my other purcheses as well. Even small items like a Rice Cooker. Don't have much money to waste, so try to buy a reliable item and save money..
    1 point
  7. Taking into account the local climate, the recommendations have been made, then stick to them,.
    1 point
  8. A sensitive subject it is,.. the viscosity change can not be directly linked to the rough running of the engine ,better get the ignition system checked as it is a prime suspect , due to possible water contamination of the electronics. .
    1 point
  9. I suppose you will be looking at a 70 series Prado/Land Cruiser II or an 80 series wagon ? They are both pretty decent SUVs as long as they have been looked after. There are quite a few body swapped Land Cruisers around so make sure you get what ever car you are interested in properly checked out. The Trooper gets an unfair bad rep from the usual car salesmen and market pundits (unless they themselves have one for sale of course). True, there might have been a few issues but all cars have them (there is no such thing called a 100% perfect car). Besides by now the well taken care of Troopers would have these issues sorted out anyway. Body parts might not be as easily and freely available as a Land Cruiser but there are plenty of ways to source them now a days. For the same price of an old box Land Cruiser I believe you can get a newer Trooper.
    1 point
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