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Im bumping this thread up due to the plethora of new members who have joined autolanka to look for 1000cc options. Please note that if you are seeking what car to buy advice, please let us know your requirements. An example for a good question is: I am looking to buy a 1000cc hatchback car which can carry 5 family members and I normally drive 500km per month. I prefer good fuel economy but can compromise on comfort. Examples for poor questions are: 1. Should I buy a 1000cc Vitz or Baleno? - no requirements given 2. I need a car that is powerful, good fuel economy, comfortable, cheap to maintain and has good resale value - you cant have everything from one car 3. Should I buy BMW 520D or 318M Sport? - not an apples to apples comparison Also please don't ask us to choose a car for you. You wouldn't ask your friends to choose your life partner. Expect us to give advise to help you choose. At the end, it's your decision. Oh... if you seek our advise, you cant compare that with what car sale guys say. This is like going to a kattadiya to seek treatment for arthritis. If you wish to take kattadiya's treatment, don't come to us.

unless you have already bought the darn thing and you need people to pat you in the back and say you made the right choice.

Some discussion of those who have done it. (Google translate might help) https://www.motor-talk.de/forum/s4-umbau-projekt-t2658839.html?page=1 so you will be looking to grab an old B5 first?

Nope Fairly sure we do not.

You have a point, but take the WRX from the same era (or even the new one) for example. Also a rally car but it sits much better than an Evo in it's stock form IMO. I guess what I meant was the gap between the wheel and the fender, not the height. The stock tyre profile of the WRX for example (245/40R18) is better than the RalliArt tyres (225/45R18). This fills the wheel well nicely, leaving only a little gap. The gap on the Evo is actually much much better than the RalliArt. If you check my photos with Evo X wheels on, you can notice that the gap is a bit narrow. It appears this way due to the higher positive offset of the rim, making it sit closer to the lip of the fender.

So should I start the “chooned by Komi” section and go on about evo Conversions and whatnot? Congrats man! Highly belated but hey, the ball-licking lion is back!

I bought it from Nikape, Dehiwela Dulux paint shop. It comes in a 500ml bottle. Mixing ratio is 1:2 or 1:3 with water. Apply with brush and leave it on for few minutes. Don't allow it to dry. Then wash off with water. Clear instructions on the bottle. I actually didn't mix mine. Just applied after wetting the tank. Wanted it to work hard cos I had lot of surface rust to be loosened off as you can see from the pics. I applied one coat. Then rinsed off. Applied second coat and used a light wet sand paper to further loosen the rust. Then rinsed off again.

Your profile picture is a Baleno and despite everyone who has experience with them telling you they are not great you still keep asking whether it's ok to buy it. That sounds like you have already decided on it and are looking for support for your decision. At the end of the day it's your car, your money so it's you who will have to live with the consequences of your choice. Buy what YOU really like.

If you need a change, just get a fancy steering wheel cover TT.

Ford F-150 Build I began the restoration of my Ford F-150 1/12 scale truck. I took everything apart and cleaned the chassis and prepped it to receive the new electrics and suspension. Here are all the parts in the chassis: The circuit board is just specially made for this truck, so no replacements to be found. I will have to hook up a receiver with an ESC to get it to drive the motor. The white plastic thing on top of the circuit board is the steering servo. It's actually a small motor coupled with a few arms to convert radial motion to lateral motion. I'm going to replace this with a regular servo. I will have to fabricate or buy matching steering arms and linkages as well. The motor: the one that's on the truck works, but it's a low voltage motor (6V by the looks). I connected it to one of my RC batteries, it ran and started to give a burning smell when I realised it's a motor rated for a lower voltage, so I may have to either make a voltage converter circuit or find a 7.2V - 7.4V motor of equal size. The motor mounts directly to the transmission, so if I'm unable to find one, I will have to do major fabrication work on the transmission housing. Fingers crossed on this. Also, note the rims - I'm gonna have the time of my life trying to find tyres that match because of the difference in diameter between the inner and outer sides of the rim. I think I will have to settle for new rims altogether + tyres. So bottom line, this is what I ended up deciding on: - Traxxas XL5 ESC - 540 7.4V motor (Tamiya or Traxxas) - Savox steering and shift servos (shift servo will be a smaller one) - Traxxas 3 channel radio system (drive, steering and transmission) The rear axle with two speed transmission. The red switch is to switch between low and high gears. I'm hoping to hook up a servo to this switch so that I can remotely switch gears from the transmitter. Inside the transmission. I have never opened up this transmission, and for something that's over 20 years old and after being bashed really hard, I was surprised to see how good it still looks. The gears look brand new and still has the new plastic smell that immediately took me back to the first day I got this. The shafts are copper and the red switch is actually the shift fork inside the transmission. Such a simple design.

Thanks Peri. I'm absolutely loving it! Already ordered a second set of rims and thinking of ordering a lighting kit as well. Some updates on the Tamiya: I may have said earlier that I want to drift the car although it's a rally spec Subaru. So I got myself another set of wheels. Planning to install plastic drift tyres on them. They were black, but I loved the design, so I got them with the intention of painting them in gold. This is how that went, some primer and then gold. The offset of these rims are a bit lower than the original Subaru ones, so they sit perfectly flush with the wheel arch. They don't look perfect with the rally spec tyres with that really coarse tread, but will look okay once the drift tyres are installed. The car looks wider with these on as well. Installing the rims gave me an idea, why not paint the brake discs in silver (they're black out of the box), so I did! Due to the less number of spokes in new rims, the discs can nicely be seen through them. A bit more detail on an already detailed car.

Unveiling the newest addition! Traxxas TRX4. This was introduced by Traxxas this year and only released a couple of months ago. Traxxas not being into the scale truck scene all along, their first scale trail/crawler - this defender is quite impressive. The detail in this thing is just mind blowing, and the extent they've gone to with creating a perfect scale truck... I can only say they've achieved it. Click the link above to their webpage to see the features and watch the video below. This is a RTR truck, so it came all assembled and with all the equipment (except batteries and charger), so not a build per say, but just wanted to share it here since I will be doing some future mods and upgrades to this. I think the link and the video say it all, but let me know if you guys have any questions - happy to answer them. Cheers! PS: Feel free to share your RC cars and updates on this thread. Surely it can't be just @terrabytetango and I who are into RC.

Toyota vitz 2016 vs Suzuki Baleno 2016/2017. Which is beter? What is your opinion? will baleno become mutch popular after the budjet in Sri lanka. Will baleno become much popular after the budget in Sri lanka. What about maintenance and long term use.

I like baleno as it is much stylish in comparative to vitz