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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/13/2017 in all areas

  1. I want something comfortable and can navigate traffic well. It also has to look nice, not the generic bloated japanese look.
    1 point
  2. I dont see a point in this car really. Its as heavy as a normal sedan, has a cvt, makes only 130ish hp combined, can barely outrun a 4 door counterpart and you loose the rear space.
    1 point
  3. i have heard many issues with the battery and gearbox in CRZ, at least with the 1-series no such worries because its still Robust like other BMWs. But dont expect same performance,Handling like the bigger models. Based on my experienxe its the worst car made by BMW. Mini is also BMW with front wheel drive.
    1 point
  4. Well after 47500kms from zero mileage point and over three years from the manufacturing date I decided it was time for a transmission fluid change. Bought a 4L can of Toyota ATF WS and with a 10mm Allen key and a funnel attached to a 5/16 clear hose of 1m length in hand set about changing ATF. First unscrewed the filler plug so that just in case I failed to do it I could still drive the car. Keeping the filler plug hand tightened to prevent fluid from gushing out, unscrewed the drain plug and drained all fluid. Although fluid was slightly dark in color to me it looked like it could have run for another 10000kms atleast. Dropped the clear tube behind the engine to reach the filler hole keeping the funnel close to inverter coolant tank and began to fill after fixing the drain plug. In fact the filler hole can accomodate a bigger tube but you need some clearance for the air to vent out as you go on filling. It took little more than 3.5L before fluid began to overflow. I was doing it alone so I spilled quite a lot of fluid. Fixed the filler plug back and I was on my way again. I know I should have taken some pics but it is not that easy to handle a camera or a phone after you get ATF on your hands.
    1 point
  5. As TT mentioned, your charging system needs inspection. The symptoms you've described suggest a bad rectifier circuit (commonly referred to as the "regulator" or "diodes") in the alternator. The other possibility (and the less likely one) is a fault with the charging system wiring. You can check this yourself if you're keen by removing then connector and the ground wire from the alternator and switching the ignition to the ON position. The charging indicator should light up fully bright. At idle, the charging voltage should roughly be between 13.8V to 14.2V. Even with load (AC, headlights etc.), it shouldn't drop below this range.
    1 point
  6. fixing Idle up vacuum relay (DIY) (This is only relevant for older vehicles which does not have ECU or can drive through an EMP Attack ) When the AC is turned on the engine RPM should raise a bit to cater for the load it gets. To do so a vacuum line coming from alternator is connected to a mechanical suction unit (idle up switch). It pulls the accelerator cable so that the RPM increases. When AC compressor turns off the electrical relay valve cut off the vacuum suction to get the engine back to it's normal idle RPM. The guy who fixed the Idle up switch to my jeep has forgotten the relay. So it always gave a high RPM at idle. I had to fix the cut off relay for that. Below is the pics of those two units. Relay Pull Switch Happy DIY project if you own an oldie with dual AC
    1 point
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