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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/30/2017 in all areas

  1. 20 points
    Here's a write up on my Daily Driver - the new Civic 1 Litre Turbo - I've so far done just a bit over 1500 Km's and since the engine was new didn't really push it to the max and I have not yet been able to do a really long trip or a drive uphill to BUT I will continue to update the blog based on the experiences as well as services etc. For a start I will touch the basics as well as all the cosmetic stuff and then get into the overall driving experience and later on the services etc. There is also a dedicated thread in the forum that is quite informative. But I hope this blog will also prove useful to someone. First of all the basics.... In a nutshell the 2017 Civic is the 10th generation in the line up. The particular model I have, and is getting popular in SL goes under the model code FK6 and has a P10A2 engine which has a measly 988cc but is turbocharged. The car is made in the UK (at Honda's Swindon Plant). I have heard that the agents now bring it down as well. (6.2M for the SR) There are 3 grades for the 1L turbocharged civic. SE, SR and the EX. The SE is the most basic model with the EX being the highest (the Tech pack is a further extension of the EX) There is roughly a 5,000 GBP (~ 1 Mil LKR) price difference between the SE and the EX. The SR on the other hand sits comfortably in the middle - it does not have stuff like adaptive damper system that comes on the EX. The Honda UK website lists down the differences of each grade under a section called 'Build your Honda' or something. If you're interested do have a look. There are 7 colors available and the Rallye Red is the standard . Every other color will cost around 500 GBP more . There is also the "Orange Line Pack" - which is basically an accessory kit that adds a touch of orange into everything - I've seen a few such cars in car sales in SL. Though I initially contemplated Sonic Grey, ended up with a Polished Metal Metallic specimen. With the 2017 Budget a new tax structure was introduced and under the engine capacity based taxation you'd be paying 17.5 m in taxes (1,754,976 LKR to be precise) for a brand new car with reasonable creature comforts and a bunch of bells and whistles which costs something between 4-5 mill based on the grade ( see above ) First Impressions For me the new Civic hatch looks like someone started designing and spent too much time doing a good job with the front and then ran out of time to design the posterior and hastily put an end to it. This explains the rather weird looking behind. The Sedan version I have to admit looks better. There's also waay too much plastic in the rear so much so that it looks like a joint venture between Honda and Arpico. There's a bit of aggressive styling at the front. The car is quite wide and it has a solid ground hugging look to it. As for the supposed vents you see at the front and the back - well those are fake. They're simply pieces of plastic made to look like vents. And yes it does have fog lights. I like the factory fitted black 17" alloys. Note the SE comes with 16" Alloys as opposed to the 17" found in the SR. Being a brand new car it came with a humongous bible-like user manual (thankfully in English) - along with the wheel lock nut as well as the tool kit and the tire repair kit (glue and the inflator which by now we are used to) If any of you intend to buy one from a regular car sale make sure they give you your wheel lock nut.
  2. 16 points
    It's been little more than 4 years with my Hiace and it has done around 76,000kms so I thought its time I give you guys an update on it. Let me start the blog with the basics, Mine is a Toyota Hiace KDH206, this variant of Hiace is fitted with a 1KD-FTV turbo engine with an all wheel drive system. The AWD system in the KDH series is pretty much full time, it runs on all four wheels normally and if any of the wheels experience a slippage, the vehicle stops sending power to that specific wheel. There is a noticeable difference between the AWD variant(KDH206) and RWD variant(KDH201). The KDH206 is around 100kg heavier and you could feel that through the steering when you drive one. In addition, the KDH206 feels far more planted at higher speeds and around corners than the RWD variant. However the downside is that the full time AWD system drinks bit more fuel than RWD version. Cost of Maintenance In short the Hiace is not cheap run, I get fuel economy of around 6km/l in kandy and around 9-10km/l outstation, the RWD KDH201 would return around another extra 2km more per litre. Hiace is originally fitted with 195/80R15 8ply tyres and they cost around 22-23.5K per tyre from brands like Continental or Pirelli, while Maxxis tyre could be found for around 16k. The Hiace requires 0W-30 oil and a regular service which needs to be carried out every 5000km costs around 10K using Toyota oil, I was using Toyota oil filter as well, but now I have switched to VIC. ATF oil must be changed around every 40k kms, I change air filter and cabin filter every year. It requires super diesel and this is an absolute must, if you regularly pump auto diesel you will pay more in repairs than what you saved by pumping auto diesel. The most likely issues you would get from pumping auto diesel are DPF, which costs around 70-80k to replace and injectors, which would set you back around 500k for all four. So far I had to change only a bush which costed around 50rs, apart from that I have not had any repairs. Performance The Hiace pulls pretty well for a vehicle which weighs 2 tonnes, the 1KD-FTV with a variable nozzle turbo produces 100kw at 3400RPM and 300nm of torque at 1200-3200rpm and it is connected to a 4 speed conventional automatic gearbox. Overtaking other vehicles with Hiace is pretty easy, you just have to put your foot down, the turbo will come to life and you would be gone. It is always on the right gear, there's no unnecessary downshifts or up shifts, the gearing ratios are perfectly synced with the power band of the engine although it is only a 4 speed gearbox in a world of 6 and 7 speed gearboxes. The Hiace properly comes to life on hill climbs with the help of low end power and variable nozzle turbo. Handling is fairly good for a van, it handles better than large SUVs. The KDH series has much less body roll compared to the previous LH series, but it isn't great as handling of a car. I notice the difference in handling when I drive the Hiace after driving our Bluebird which has front and rear independent suspension. Comfort It doesn't handle large potholes and bumps as good as a car, but it does manage to soften small potholes pretty well. The diesel engine noise is evident compared to a hybrid or petrol vehicle but the noise reduces when the vehicle gets to the third gear or at around 70+ km/h speed. The A/C is epic on the Hiace, it is one of the best cooling A/C I have come across, I rarely have to set the A/C temperature below 26 degree Celsius on auto mode and that is without the dual A/C. There is plenty of space inside, 7 or 8 people could travel on long journeys with their legs stretched out and not crammed. The second row seat is the best place to be in, you get the dual A/C right in front of you, it is acoustic sweet spot and minimal sunlight enters the cabin. Practicality It is quite a practical vehicle if you are using it occasionally or for long journeys as it can seat 8 comfortably yet carry plenty of luggage(you could fit around 4-5 large travelling bag placed horizontally), it has got atleast double the amount of luggage space compared to a Noah/Esquire. However it is bit of waste of money if you are using it on daily basis as fuel bills are gone be crazy and parking these are not that easy within city limits. In addition, maneuvering these around narrow roads requires some skills especially roads with tight bends. Second hand value and parts Selling a KDH isn't difficult at all, if you maintain them right there will always be people willing it to buy it from you. There are plenty of body parts available but 1KD engine parts are bit difficult to find and even if you do find, it will be expensive Some used parts prices are: Pair of tail lights: 15k for older design and 30k for new design Pair of headlight: more than 100k without the HID unit Rear door: around 40k Fog lights: around 20k What I have done with my Hiace The Modellista body kit came with the van from Japan itself and I added the Modellista grill later on Original Toyota spoiler which came painted pearl white I tinted the fog lamps yellow with Nightbreaker bulbs in them I have also replaced the rear seats which are rotatable and come with a table as well I have done some electronic mods as well, Installed a transcend DrivePro 200 Carrozzeria tweeters with crossover and JBL component speakers with crossover(thanks to @TheFlyingFox) https://streamable.com/ujkce I was planning on installing FIAMM horns, but the JDM side of my brain took over and I went with Mitsuba Alpha https://streamable.com/nbipn Note: click on the links to access the videos My dad had the body kit removed for a short period of time and during that time I drove it through some muddy terrain. It did well.
  3. 11 points
    The first thing that struck me when i sat down to drive this for the first time was the really low seating position - it did not take a lot of getting used to though. The height is of course adjustable and provides a much comfier driving position. The passengers seat on the other hand though cannot be height adjusted. The rear seats too don't have the fabled "magic seats" functionality where you can fold up the seats to increase space in the rear - but you can fold the seats down to create a humongous amount of boot space - I do not quite remember the exact capacity but it's quite a lot. Due to the shape of the roof , while the rear seats are quite comfortable and have a decent amount of space for your legs you might feel a bit of head room is missing. But it won't really translate into a problem - unless you are from Marhsall Eriksen's family . The SR grade (and the SE) for that matter comes with fabric seats - and the interior is black by default (for all grades) . So no "Baij Interiyal" advertisements on the classifieds for this model then. The materials for the seats are quite "scruffy" and the interior is a dust magnet. The material used on the seats particularly are prone to attract a lot of dust and small particles of whatnot. There are speakers on all four doors - something I noticed in other contemporary Hondas as well - the doors also have the same dust-attractive upholstery. I told you there's only a repair kit - but the good news is there is a bit of space in the rear that can double up as storage space or a spare wheel well - so if you're paranoid about having only a repair kit, you can easily carry around a spare The cockpit is contemporary Honda fare. The steering wheel itself is quite plush and has a nice feel to it - though the steering itself is light which I will talk about when i have an entry regarding handling. The usual controls are all there including the cruise control buttons and beneath the wheel you can find the paddle shifters (again paddle shifters + CVT is something i would talk about later) The control for the lane keep assistant is also in the steering wheel. Mind you the Wiper control stalk is on the right and the headlight control stalk is on the left - takes a bit of getting used to if you've previously driven JDM's only. The "Auto" mode in the Wiper means that it will enable the rain sensing wipers and depending on the amount of rain you get the speed will adjust as well. Nice touch but i personally feel it's a bit too dramatic. If i remember correctly the SE grade does not have rain sensing wipers. This being the SR grade you do not get a push start you need a key - the Push start button is there only on the EX trim. With the honda sensing package you get some features like proximity alerts, automatic breaking and lane departure warning. These can be turned on and off and the switches are located near the ignition on the right hand side along with the headlamp leveling switch. The shifter console includes the parking brake (yes there's no separate lever for that), the brake hold button (so your foot can be taken off the brake in for example color lights) there is also a button to toggle the eco-mode as well as to turn on and off auto-braking. Between these two buttons you would find the adaptive damper button on an EX-trim car. There cubby hole is quite small and disappointing given the fact that this is not an alto- and there are no individual cup holders etc - there is a circular holder that can easily accommodate a bottle in the storage area below the slide-able arm rest. This storage area also has a usb port that can be used with the infotainment system. However it has to be said both the usb outlets in front are not in the most accessible places. The other usb slot is practically invisible and hidden by the armrest console along with the HDMI port and Next to that is the 12V circular power outlet. Mind you there is another 12 V power outlet in the boot as well - handy when it comes to plug in your car vacuum. There is also dual zone climate control - other than the dedicated climate control panel fan speed etc can be set via the touch screen.
  4. 11 points
    Hi Guys, Having being an avid reader of the AL forum for years, I thought I'd create an account and contribute as I got a 2018 Civic SR for the wifey a couple of weeks back. (Edit: Looks like I had another account already. May bad. let me kill the new one). Since her N16 was aging (gracefully), we needed an upgrade. The SR had quite alot of features and the interior was quite impressive. With an acceptable amount of crumple zones and weight, it was the right container for the kids to go to school/tuition etc. I got it down through a friend who was kind enough to give the UK registration papers. It clearly states the First Registration date. Even though I trusted the guys, this was like the cherry on top. The Car was shipped in a container arrived in SL in 3 weeks. Put the bad boy on a flat bed and brought it home on the 3rd day after landing in Colombo. First impression of the car all positive. It looks impressive (however I still am not big fan of the back). There's interior is roomy enough for a family of 4. Has enough leg room at the back for an average Sri Lankan. However since the seats are quite low, people with long legs might find it uncomfortable on long journeys. The 3 cylinder engine does sound different.. being very blunt, if a low capacity diesel engine had sex with a land master engine, you would get something that sounds like the civic's engine. But this little turbo charged puppy tend to grow on you so at least for me it's not a deal breaker. From the performance perspective, I'm still breaking in the engine so trying to stay under 100 and 4000 rpm, but you do feel the turbo lag but once it kicks in, you can clearly feel the difference. Handling wise, I'm impressed by how road hugging the car is, quick lane changes are quite enjoyable but I'm sure the 235/45R17s are going to make me pay through the nose come new tire time. Fuel consumption wise, it started at 3km/L the moment after the first tankful and after about 100kms, it's at 6+km/L and still improving. Friends, since this is my first post, if I've violated any rules here, please let me know. More than happy to adjust accordingly.
  5. 11 points
    Title should read "need to look rich, but too broke to pump fuel"
  6. 10 points
    i will summarise what the Teg has been through from 2014 to 2018, in the next few blog posts. ENGINE The car went through 3 additional rebuilds since the first before things start working aright. indika was not the man to have done this with, as he had no experience with B series hondas, and my vision was lost on him. i was severely restricted by the budget of my dreams so i couldn't afford any better. having said that, i have spent 3 times more doing cheap repairs 4 times over than i have spent doing it right, once, with sabry at PAS. the reason my Brian Crower cams were not producing power was that i had not raised the compression adequately in my cylinders. as i was unaware of this, i was running stock compression, which was 10.8:1, which is the lowest compression honda designed for the B series: the GS-R auto. the BC website quite bluntly states that one has to have at least a CR of 12:1 for their cams to work. in this light i was experiencing something like "anti-VTEC" where the normal lobes created oodles of power and when the wild lobes are engaged the car bogs down due to compression and fuelling inadequacies. on this discovery, and being at a bad place personally at the time, i gave up on the BC cams, thinking i have reached the end of my limits with the Teg and i will not be able to complete this. for the first time in my life, i compensated. i backed out. i sold the cams to Rumesh Rajakulendran, who was building his BabyMilo EK9 racecar, and reverted to my auto GSR cams. it was a very low point to have seen those cams go. worse yet, Ruma was thrashing every event he entered and winning by a country mile. he never forgot to acknowledge me and the cams. to add to this, a few months beyond this incident, sabry and i were trying to tune it, and the engine broke. the bearings had given way. and so began... 1. the second rebuild i have her this time to a local garage, Shafiq's, in attidiya. he had a lot of experience i was told with B series hondas, and he seemed to know what he was doing. shafiq then pulled everything apart to find out that one of my chambers is not in line with the others. this required an overbore to remove the discrepancy, and bigger pistons. at this juncture Ashan Silva was kind enough to gift me a set of P72 +25bore Civic Type R pistons, which i used in the rebuild. the bearing failure had also cut the crank, so i had to machine the crank as well. sadly this rebuild lasted the 2000km break in time, and the bearings gave way again while i was on the highway to galle, and it was back to shafiq's for... 2. the third rebuild. the bore was ok now, but the crank had got cut again, and i was given the choice of machining it yet again, and then limping around, as it would not last many trips to 9000+ rpm, or buy a new crank. a crank from honda was around 80,000, while an entire B20B non VTEC CRV engine in toto was 55,000. the choice was obvious. so we harvested the crank from that engine and did the third rebuild. at this point i did some research and came to the conclusion that it was not a good idea to mix and match parts, such as take a b20 crank, pair it with b18 pistons and con rods, and then use a b18 head, as the measurements are all different. the garage thought naught of this and then went ahead. and again, i did the 2000km break in, and was on the dyno tuning it with sabry. the second power run produced 189whp and 280Nm of torque. and then the bearings broke. the engine seized. and this it was time again for *-drum roll please-* 3. THE FOURTH REBUILD!! i was out of money, out of patience, at my wits end. my dream had fallen apart. i cannot adequately communicate to you the dejection i felt when this broke for the third time. my heart just froze over and i was beyond emotion. this was it. Project R had come to its end. with a son on the way and a house planned to be built, i was drained. this was my strength, my love and my life and it has just broken down for what i thought was the last time. i needed space. time. to think this through. one thing was for sure, i was done giving the car to half baked garages. this needed a pro. i wanted this fixed. so i sent her to Platinum as i wanted Sabry to repair it. someday. he removed the engine and i brought the body home. where it went up on jack stands and stayed that way until i could either afford a rebuild, or i made up my mind to sell her for parts and keep the Book. she stayed this way for 8 months. during which time i removed the tyres, and stored them in my room, and every sunday i would head out, and wash her, clean the interior and apply siddhalepa on the rexin surfaces to keep away fungus. this was my ritual once a week for 8 months. until such time i could find the means to afford a rebuild, and sabry could bring the parts down. the day finally did arrive, and boy did sabry pull out a corker. he had plans. big plans. he wanted to do right by me what numerous other people couldn't, and he made this his pet project. we decided to use the block from the b20 engine i had, as my b18 block was fried. and anyhow a b20 would have better lower end torque and thus be an easier daily driver. also my head was perfect. there was no signs of valve or spring wear and it was functioning normally. i had during this time installed a set of ITR camshafts also, and we thought we'd leave that just as it is. so the B20 block was harvested and bored to 2100cc. everything else was brand new. we ordered... 1. An Eagle crankshafft. aluminium. rated for 1500whp, 2. Wiseco pistons and connecting rods. custom made for my b20 block/b18autoGSR head, to produce a CR of 13.0:1. 3. a block guard was installed as the chambers of the b20 are larger, and thus weaker than the b18. the b20 had a redline of 7200rpm. we were pushing the 10,000 limiter again. so a block guard is necessary to prevent the chambers from warping. 4. ACL bearings 5. 510cc EVO 4 injectors, with impedance reset to match the requirement 6. AEM 320LPH high flow fuel pump, with a fuel pressure regulator. sabry took about three weeks for the work, and she was out again in all her glory. she was built with massive tolerances, where, would i ever need to scratch that itch, a set of aftermarket cams or even boost upto 0.8 bar would be easily handled. she was built to last. i do have to appreciate the effort Sabry put into this, as at one point he had made a mistake on the height of the connecting rods, and he sent them back to wiseco to get down the right ones wiseco refused to refund as the mistake was not theirs. sabry bought a new set for the right measurement out of his own pocket. i've switched over to LiquiMOLY MOS2 10w-40 oil, and it has been smooth sailing so far. it is only now, that Project R has truly come alive.
  7. 9 points
    well Chamara - sadly many Sri Lankans tried VERY VERY hard to appreciate the Panda but it was simply impossible to do so. A very good friend of mine bought one and did his best to appreciate his Micro Panda but eventually he realized it was an exercise in futility - he bought a Kia Picanto recently. wow that's impressive hybrid-grade mileage. Better than Gp1, Wagon R and Vezel. Almost on par with Aqua when it comes to city fuel consumption. Are you sure you're not driving the hybrid version of the panda? what is the ccp? Central Committee of Pandas?
  8. 9 points
    Thanks , this part help us to judge the validity of your whole comment.
  9. 9 points
    My old vanettes speedo glass has been faded , bubbled and cracked since I bought the vehicle and it kept getting worse and i've tried to find a suitable replacement for a while with no luck. Recently the glass cracked apart in two in middle and it looked terrible. Vanette C22 dashboards rare to find and one bugger asked 45K for a heavily warn out one. I could not spend that much for the glass and two air vents ( except those , the existing dashboard is fine) . So I decided to make a glass myself and it came out very nice. 25010M is the part I made. total cost : Rs 400/= ,only thing I bought was a piece of transparent plastic board from a number plate making place. here are few pics I took while doing it, only took about and hour for that whole job. I feel like an ass when I think about the time I wasted stopping at every breaker joint I see where ever I went. Sorry for the lack of extra details , but this is too easy for anyone to get wrong. If anyone needs more details please PM . 1. Removed front part of the cluster, and cracked glass is fixed with a piece of duct tape to take measurements for the new one. 2. Lay the glass on the plastic board and draw the outline with a pen 3. Cut the straight lines with a help of a steel ruler and a paper cutter. We dont need those small extrusions around the glass since we are going to duct tape it to the frame and hot glue it. Just cut straight. Cutting the plastic board is bit difficult using the paper cutter, put cuts on both sides before applying gentle pressure to break the glass - just like glass cutting, but put marks on both sides. 4. smooth out the edges with a angle grinder. 5. it has a small curve along two sides, use the angle grinder to grindout the plastic to get the previously marked shape 6. The original glass has a convex shape , no need to worry , we can use the frame around the dashboard to push the glass to the speedo cluster to get that shape, ( I tried to use the hot air gun to bend the plastic glass after warming it up and messed it up once - dont do it) 7. Drill out a small hole for the trip meter reset . 8. keep the glass on the meter frame and duct tape it. dont try to bend and close the gaps on the right and left sides. duct tape the top and bottom only. Use hot glue on places where the clip were before. Use it generously . 9. Fix it to the dashboard , tight in the screws well - and thats it! Looks just like new.
  10. 8 points
    Finally she’s here😁Thanking all the members who helped me in various ways💪
  11. 8 points
    The car as it may seem right now.... Broken and Shiz.. About to get a new life... Tinkering Done!
  12. 8 points
    My sincere advice to you is to stay away from baic x25 i own one and it comes with so many issues from day one 1) fuel efficiency within city is 5.5 km per liter ( not exaggerating) micro is not bothered to rectify this for me 2) no warrenty even manufacturer warranty for cheap tyres which went flat twice and micro never bothered to replace for me 3) there was a deep scratch in the body on the day I bought it but gt it painted free 4) so much rattling noises from dash board and back . Addressed this issue 3 times but not resolved 5) no spare parts for steering 6) very slow pickup for a 1500 l engine and not easy to overtake 7) wheel disc were all rusted and got them all painted for free 8)as a member in this group said if you don't know much about mechanics of car then they try to fool you by sayin 5 km perlitre is normal until the warrenty and free service period ends 9)I spoke to another owner whose AC was not working 10) vehicle is not sound Proof and not air tight either as foul smell from outside enters the vehicle as you pass by any fountain or carbage areas All in all stay away from baic x25 42.5 lake would go down the drain if you spend in this vehicle as the second hand market is also low even though it looks good in appearance do not buy baic x25
  13. 8 points
    Mr. Potato Garden is a first class id*ot. He's not any different from all the assorted morons that appear in TV, claiming themselves to be experts in one thing or the other. Sumanadasa, Galthenne Gamini, doctors who promote cosmetics... they are all the same. Just FYI, few years ago when I was out of country for a while, my Wife's car developed a problem, which I recognized to be worn CV joints. Since potato garden has his garage about 100m from where I live and the place appeared to be safe for a lady to visit, I asked her to take the car there. Potato garden claimed he replaced both CV joints and gave a bill of about 20k. The problem reappeared about 3 months later when I was back in SL. I took the car to my trusted mechanic (since I jolly well know there are no warranties for any mechanical repair work in this country). Took out the CV joints myself and realized that only one CV joint had been replaced - that too with a lathed one and the boots were not greased. Not a drop of grease was seen. So much for Potato Garden's work!
  14. 7 points
    one of the greatest joys of having a car that actually runs and doesn't sit in the garage more often than it does at home, is that i can actually leather it now and then. this is one thing i am eternally grateful to PAS and Sabry for: for coming through with what they promised and building a car to last. it was on his insistence that i entered the drags. i stood no chance fromm the get go. i was in the 1800cc-2500cc NA class, and i was up against 5 other competitors who brought drag prepped monsters carried there on trailers. while i drove my daily whip to the track, raced, and drove back. but with a qualifying time in the 15s range, with the winner running 12s, i'm quite pleased! i was loaned a pair of semi slicks for the race. this is why i love this community. the love, people. the love! our resident rice police @VVTi and @Bugatti both took part in the one make BMW event, and i was sharing their tent space, feeling much like the Geisha to a platoon of SS soldiers... ^^this, by far, is my favourite shot. this is going on a wall somewhere. Built. Driven. Inspired. with Sacha Peiris in his Babyzilla here's the two time trials: and here's the qualifier. i was booted out after this. but hey, i'll be back! this was easily the most fun day of my entire life. to actually have a car that could run a race, and then go home in, to me, was the real victory. and while i sat there, on the start line, with the throttle blipping on launch control, i realized i didn't even have to run the race. i'd already won. the result was immaterial! <-- this was how the other 5 cars went home. mine is still proudly daily driven. all i did was remove the stickers.
  15. 7 points
    Finally. At long last, the ITR sedan conversion is done!! Here she is in all her glory. More glam pics in the upcoming months! Few niggles I’m trying to fix. The front end didn’t come with fender liners/mudguards. Sourced those from uk. Also I was using a lengthened shifter linkage from an ek3 with a d series box. Apparently that’s why shifting into reverse and 2nd are difficult. Waiting on a proper ITR shifter linkage from the UK as well. Along with the stock dual bend shifter.
  16. 7 points
    I joined this forum in 2012 when I only had a rusty mountain bike with no brakes! Learned lots and finally obtained my dream. Didn't think of resale,fuel or what not. Just followed my heart! But sad to see the newer generation of car buyers, makes me weep hard. Does anybody even care about driving the damn thing anymore? instead of resale and fuel! This is not showing off. Just an Appreciation to AL and the community! PS. Its a 2 Liter Turbo with 200 horses and still does over 13kmpl city, so go f*** off with ur premios and vezis!
  17. 7 points
    I've never appeared in courts as a defendant myself but I did appear as a witness in a hit-and-run case. And I understood the hard way why Sri Lankan public don't wish to appear as witnesses for anything. There are only 2 words you need to know. "Varadakaru Swaameeni". That's all. You don't need a lawyer to say that. You will go there at 9 in the morning, wait till the bailiff calls your case number and your name and step up to the defendant's box. The bailiff will read out the charges at 100 words per second speed. You will just say "varadakaru swaameeni" and it will be over in 3.5 seconds. Your fine will be read out by the bailiff. Most likely the judge wont even raise his head and look at you. After the session is over, you will wait, pay the fine, wait again and then collect your license. Estimated total time: 6 hours. Estimated meditation time: 5 hours 58 minutes. You actually don't need to wear formal clothes. It's not an FCID case. Just wear a shirt and a trouser. Don't take your mobile phone or any other personal belongings inside. Practice meditation before you go. You will need it. Here's an old post on the same topic:
  18. 7 points
    I met an engineer at MICRO, according to him they are also not sure about Panda fuel consumption as it varies from car to car
  19. 7 points
    Skyline and Fuel Economy in one sentence? Ye gods... I wanna kill myself.
  20. 7 points
  21. 7 points
    It's been a great year for all of us, especially with the new updates and resources added to AutoLanka Forum. We are committed to keep moving forward to ensure that we provide a platform to discuss and find all things related to motoring free of charge. On behalf of Team Autolanka I would like to thank our senior members, moderators and new members for their utmost contribution and support throughout the year. I would like to make this an opportunity to appreciate the hard work done by following senior members @iRage @Davy @Crosswind @Rumesh88 who have gone extra steps during the time of need by helping out our fellow members and earned top 4 ranks in Autolanka Leaderboard for the year 2017! Here's to 2018 and all the adventures it brings. Wish All Auto Lankans A Very Happy New Year 2018!! Enjoy & Drive Safe!!
  22. 7 points
    I'm sorry I don't represent the government, so I have no idea.
  23. 7 points
    Hiding the issue and selling the car is not ethical. That will handover the issue to another person rather solving it. Sad about your situation @Aslam86. Also shame about you @florider
  24. 6 points
    Thought of maintaining a log of my experience with the new babe in this tread. I have had the car for just over a week as of now. Have had very bad weather for driving but did enjoy every second of over 600 km driving thus far. Going with the trend these days I did opt to go for a Ceramic Coating for the car before I got the delivery. The agent was very supportive in accommodating in getting my requirements done before delivery. The only advice given by the agent on 1st 1,000 km was not to rev the engine over 4,000rpm (the usual story in SL). But if I am not mistaken, apart from high revving the engine, constant rpm for a extended period of time is also not good during break in period and there is more to engine break in than just driving under a certain speed and RPM. The first proper drive was to Galle and reluctantly I had to take the highway due to horrid weather. Since engine was still breaking in, could not open the throttle as much as I wanted to and did not let the engine run at the same RPM for longer period. Even in lower RPMs the pick up of the car is absolutely stunning. The constant acceleration without gear shits needs a bit getting used to but I love it. Although many talks about the slight turbo lag, I havent noticed it thus far. The flaps let you override the gear ratio while driving (I know it is a CVT) in the Drive mode and gets back to its normal mode after few seconds, but in Sport mode, once you used the paddles to up or down shift, the car gets into manually up shifting mode. It stays the same until the gear is changed to Drive. (at least it is the only way I know to switch the manual mode off in "S". I am still going through the 600+ page Owner's Manual) The car's computer showed a average fuel efficiency of 5.5 liters per 100 km (just above 18kmpl) and averaged just over 15kmpl from full tank to full tank over 340km. Weekday Colombo running is still around 8kmpl and still I am not very convinced of the accuracy of the calculations of car's computer on fuel economy. I will update on the progress after the 1st couple of services. Cant wait to open the taps properly after the engine break in period. p.s: We generally have names for our cars. Keeping in with the tradition my daughter christened this one as 'Jackson Storm' (from Cars 3). 'Stormy' for short... So Stormy says "Hello World"!
  25. 6 points
    that'll be the end of weird status updates like ' my shoelace got tangled in the engine cooling fan' , ' i accidentally dropped a potato in the wiper fluid resevoir' etc
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