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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/04/2015 in all areas

  1. 27 points
    Resurrecting an almost useless thread to post my views; As some of the fellow autolankans requested I'd like to add my humble, non-professional, not entirely scientific review on the Nissan Leaf 2013-2015 G grade Well to start off with it was acquired by my father after letting go of a 13 year serving CR51, bullet proof reliable vehicle. Sad moment indeed, Do note all facts and figures on this post are from October 2015, given the rapid advancement in the industry, figures may change in months. Before moving on to the car proper, the leaf charges on a 20A circuit, so you need to have a dedicated line with a 32A circuit breaker and 2.5mm 3 Core wiring (250LKR per metre) to power it, also it uses a non-generic NEMA 20 Plug that can take 20A, however these plugs are exploited by local retailers and sold for ridiculous prices. Also the charging cable (EVSE) itself is costly to replace, as of 2015 - LKR 100,000 Orange electricals produces a 13A Multisocket which so far can withstand this plug mismatch and somehow deliver near 20A with a bit of heat of course. All in all the wiring will cost LKR 5000 to 15000 depending on your requirements. Charging takes 4-5 hours if your capacity is below 20% As for fast charging, the current method is a big exploit and thereby I did not inquire or use that service, also the fast charge takes a toll on the drive battery, therefore I am playing it safe. I am yet to inquire into the Solar net metering system, and the new day/ night charging rate scheme by the government. Anyways my prime concern of this review and the purchase of this vehicle is not economy, so it ends here. My facts about the car will be scattered, in this article, as I believe this is how the average Joe would grasp it during a first drive. On first impressions, the car looked a bit awkwardly styled, but the look does grow on you, It is no ordinary hatchback as the car is in measurement few mm larger than the average townace, in length and breadth, and is just a few inches smaller than a KDH, Almost sounds jibberish, Silly fact indeed but you got to keep em side by side to realize this, and this in-turn makes parking an issue too. Sitting inside, it is indeed very futuristic, with the awkward gear knob, looks copied from a Pruis and a Beamer, it has two displays one for the usual driving data, and one for the "Lorax" in you, I will not go in depth with the gauges as I do not want this to be a user guide. The seats are not comfortable, on a long run they do take a toll on your back, however the leg spacing and the cabin is well arranged, Six footers need no warning thus not at all an average hatchback, the cargo area is also satisfactory, (coming from a guy who hauls his stuff in a pickup) The interior however is almost entirely plastic, even in its highest grade, UK trims do get rewarded with leather seats though. The door cards are rather thick, well insulated and leather lined, strangely! The roof liner is the conventional material pretty much what you get on every Toyota. The multifunction wheel, is not entirely that useful as the interface is in Japanese, a big fan of its premium leather wrap and small size though. Coming to the head unit, the thing is completely integrated into the car ECU, thereby making it impossible for an aftermarket upgrade, and almost all the advanced EV options are in Japanese, so pretty much useless, till you get google translator. To date there is no language conversion for the main unit, the only solution is to replace it with a UK unit. also the unit has a SD card, unique to each car, these cards are stolen during trials and in the harbour, without the Sd card, the entire head unit is useless and needs to be swapped. Otherwise some of the advanced options of the car are never reached. Sadly the cars integrated gps prevents me from setting our local time, locals have plenty of hacks but I prefer to keep this car near stock. However the smaller displays can be converted to english, but as I mentioned earlier, the mudalalis in the industry are exploiting it with various big quotes. My dealer installed the language pack FOC, which works brilliantly. Not a fan of the pedal type handbrake either, Sitting inside, visibility is rather poor around, and rear visibility is just 25% or less, very poor on Nissan's side, given that its such a well thought after car First drive, the amazing silence, thats what gets you, the car is equipped with a flimsy horn, city horn as Nissan puts it, I am awaiting a high efficiency set from Hella which will go in this weekend, deal is with that silence, you gotta be hooting at everyone you see as no one notices it coming and any given speed. Same goes with animals on the roads. The built in fake sound producing device cuts off after a certain speed, ( 30kmph) and even when its in action it is not convincing enough. The steering is amazingly light, almost zero road feel though but very fast responding, and the turning circle is very good, drawing back to its city car roots, The handling is very tight, almost zero body roll, but the car feels heavy ( approx 1500kg unladen), The car is comfortable, the suspension landing somewhere between soft and hard, but the 17" rims and low profile tyre with 36PSI helps me to count the road grain well. potholes are an utter disaster, road noise is very apparent, but given the lack of engine noise, you can't blame em So in the not-so-famed eco mode, the car can range around 215km, provided you drive like you were on the license trial, but if you thrash it around mildly, you can tange 180, But once the eco mode is gone, and heavy thrashing you can do roughly 150km tops. ( all in a full charge that is) Again, getting rid of eco and B mode (engine breaking), it pulls very well, pretty much amazing even to the race car driver, mostly due to the fact that the motor (actually motor!) has a lot of torque compared to HP, All in all a very nippy car, the thing has traction control, and with it off, you can actually wheelspin of the lights! The the instant torque of the motor makes it an absolute nightmare climbing slippery hills, only way is to feather the throttle and hope it crawls through, a well paved hilly road is an absolute joy as it has so much grunt, the artficial engine braking and regen system makes descent very easy, the car has disc brakes all around making it stop very well, but I feel that the regen system does most of the decelleration, and the discs kick in only in an abrupt stop. The VSC does kick in if you push the car hard on slippery roads cutting power off the motor. the brakes seem to be operated by a motorized vacuum servo. The aircon is pretty much comparable to conventional cars with climate control of course, the integrated bose sound system is of course lovely and has the option to alter in volume as the road noise varies. Steering controls and bluetooth work very well. The oem reverse camera is absolutely useless, even with its telematics nonsense. Under the hood the main thing you can see is the charging apparatus, the motor is neately tucked away underneath. The only fluids that need attention/ topup are coolant (Yes it has a radiator to cool the internals and It has blue coolant!), brake fluid and wiper washer fluid. The car has standard fuses and relays. Other than the Drive train, everything else including lighting, stereo, aircon and other ancillaries are all run by a 12v system which leaches from the drive battery and is also trickle charged by the solar panel. The headlamps are equipped with pretty LEDs for low beam and the tail lights are LED too, the high beams are halogen and pretty much everything in the lighting department are standard bulbs found in other cars ( guess whos buying LEDs) The car has very good ground clearance, comparable to a vezel, so you won't be rubbing the road everywhere you go. I've pretty much covered about 300km+ on the thing including two 120km trips, the car never ran out of charge. and the range anxiety never hit me, but I did drive sensibly, between 40-70kmph and about 120kmph max in an overtake (stupid I know, new car blues took over) . Its an absolute joy in the highway as in cruise control, it lost only 1% charge in the katunayake expressway. The fun part is, the lack of noise in that speed, reminds me of an electric train. Also did a few runs around hill stations and always managed home to charge. When the battery hits near-reserve level, some Japanese woman starts blaring god-knows-what through your speakers, which puts the fear of god in you. There is one forum up already with a handful of members, and pretty much a load of facebook 'clubs' for leaf owners. they do share a wealth of information but need guidance to get a proper club together. So at the end of the day, it is a rather satisfactory automobile, Its not the replacement for your trusty corolla, but pretty much it is what your corolla will become someday, I could call it my very own time capsule. Apologies if it was too long though
  2. 23 points
    Drunk driving is a serious traffic offence. If the person is drunk, he is not fit to drive. If a vehicle is driven by someone who is not fit to drive (minors, unlicensed drivers, drunk drivers, dogs...) then the insurance company will not settle the claim. Its plain and simple. Also your friend will get his license suspended for 6 months. I hope your friend broke a leg or something. Idiots like that should be shot before they hurt someone.
  3. 20 points
    Here's a write up on my Daily Driver - the new Civic 1 Litre Turbo - I've so far done just a bit over 1500 Km's and since the engine was new didn't really push it to the max and I have not yet been able to do a really long trip or a drive uphill to BUT I will continue to update the blog based on the experiences as well as services etc. For a start I will touch the basics as well as all the cosmetic stuff and then get into the overall driving experience and later on the services etc. There is also a dedicated thread in the forum that is quite informative. But I hope this blog will also prove useful to someone. First of all the basics.... In a nutshell the 2017 Civic is the 10th generation in the line up. The particular model I have, and is getting popular in SL goes under the model code FK6 and has a P10A2 engine which has a measly 988cc but is turbocharged. The car is made in the UK (at Honda's Swindon Plant). I have heard that the agents now bring it down as well. (6.2M for the SR) There are 3 grades for the 1L turbocharged civic. SE, SR and the EX. The SE is the most basic model with the EX being the highest (the Tech pack is a further extension of the EX) There is roughly a 5,000 GBP (~ 1 Mil LKR) price difference between the SE and the EX. The SR on the other hand sits comfortably in the middle - it does not have stuff like adaptive damper system that comes on the EX. The Honda UK website lists down the differences of each grade under a section called 'Build your Honda' or something. If you're interested do have a look. There are 7 colors available and the Rallye Red is the standard . Every other color will cost around 500 GBP more . There is also the "Orange Line Pack" - which is basically an accessory kit that adds a touch of orange into everything - I've seen a few such cars in car sales in SL. Though I initially contemplated Sonic Grey, ended up with a Polished Metal Metallic specimen. With the 2017 Budget a new tax structure was introduced and under the engine capacity based taxation you'd be paying 17.5 m in taxes (1,754,976 LKR to be precise) for a brand new car with reasonable creature comforts and a bunch of bells and whistles which costs something between 4-5 mill based on the grade ( see above ) First Impressions For me the new Civic hatch looks like someone started designing and spent too much time doing a good job with the front and then ran out of time to design the posterior and hastily put an end to it. This explains the rather weird looking behind. The Sedan version I have to admit looks better. There's also waay too much plastic in the rear so much so that it looks like a joint venture between Honda and Arpico. There's a bit of aggressive styling at the front. The car is quite wide and it has a solid ground hugging look to it. As for the supposed vents you see at the front and the back - well those are fake. They're simply pieces of plastic made to look like vents. And yes it does have fog lights. I like the factory fitted black 17" alloys. Note the SE comes with 16" Alloys as opposed to the 17" found in the SR. Being a brand new car it came with a humongous bible-like user manual (thankfully in English) - along with the wheel lock nut as well as the tool kit and the tire repair kit (glue and the inflator which by now we are used to) If any of you intend to buy one from a regular car sale make sure they give you your wheel lock nut.
  4. 19 points
    I've always said Sri lanka is not ready for electric cars. Not yet. As long as we burn oil and generate electricity to barely meet the demands, we will never be ready for electric cars. We will be ready for electric cars once we start generating excess power, after electrifying all the little villages in the country and meeting basic power requirements of industries and people. Until such time, electric cars should be discouraged.... and this is a good move (even if that wasn't the intention). Electric cars bring cost savings for a selected few and harm the masses in general. However, I don't expect Sri Lankan car owners to understand that. We are one of the most selfish people in the world.
  5. 17 points
    Procedure: - Strip the interior (seats, carpets, dashboard, upholstery etc.) and exterior (windscreens, trims, lights, badges etc.) components. For a proper job, the engine bay will also need to be emptied, so that the bay can be painted. - Do body work (repair rust, straighten out panels) - Prepare the body for paint (this will involve sanding down the old paint so that the new primer/paint will stick properly. Doesn't have to be stripped to bare metal IMO). Then prime the body. - Apply paint and clear coat. - Re-attach all components - Do initial polish (a final polish will need to be done after a month or so) Legal issues: - You need to change the car registration with the new colour. For this you will have to submit a "Change of Particulars" form to the DMV. I believe the form is CMT 72 which can be downloaded from here. Search the forum for more info. Problems for insurance: - There shouldn't be any. However, you will have to submit the car for inspection at the insurance company, so that they can update their database with the new appearance of the vehicle.
  6. 16 points
    It's been little more than 4 years with my Hiace and it has done around 76,000kms so I thought its time I give you guys an update on it. Let me start the blog with the basics, Mine is a Toyota Hiace KDH206, this variant of Hiace is fitted with a 1KD-FTV turbo engine with an all wheel drive system. The AWD system in the KDH series is pretty much full time, it runs on all four wheels normally and if any of the wheels experience a slippage, the vehicle stops sending power to that specific wheel. There is a noticeable difference between the AWD variant(KDH206) and RWD variant(KDH201). The KDH206 is around 100kg heavier and you could feel that through the steering when you drive one. In addition, the KDH206 feels far more planted at higher speeds and around corners than the RWD variant. However the downside is that the full time AWD system drinks bit more fuel than RWD version. Cost of Maintenance In short the Hiace is not cheap run, I get fuel economy of around 6km/l in kandy and around 9-10km/l outstation, the RWD KDH201 would return around another extra 2km more per litre. Hiace is originally fitted with 195/80R15 8ply tyres and they cost around 22-23.5K per tyre from brands like Continental or Pirelli, while Maxxis tyre could be found for around 16k. The Hiace requires 0W-30 oil and a regular service which needs to be carried out every 5000km costs around 10K using Toyota oil, I was using Toyota oil filter as well, but now I have switched to VIC. ATF oil must be changed around every 40k kms, I change air filter and cabin filter every year. It requires super diesel and this is an absolute must, if you regularly pump auto diesel you will pay more in repairs than what you saved by pumping auto diesel. The most likely issues you would get from pumping auto diesel are DPF, which costs around 70-80k to replace and injectors, which would set you back around 500k for all four. So far I had to change only a bush which costed around 50rs, apart from that I have not had any repairs. Performance The Hiace pulls pretty well for a vehicle which weighs 2 tonnes, the 1KD-FTV with a variable nozzle turbo produces 100kw at 3400RPM and 300nm of torque at 1200-3200rpm and it is connected to a 4 speed conventional automatic gearbox. Overtaking other vehicles with Hiace is pretty easy, you just have to put your foot down, the turbo will come to life and you would be gone. It is always on the right gear, there's no unnecessary downshifts or up shifts, the gearing ratios are perfectly synced with the power band of the engine although it is only a 4 speed gearbox in a world of 6 and 7 speed gearboxes. The Hiace properly comes to life on hill climbs with the help of low end power and variable nozzle turbo. Handling is fairly good for a van, it handles better than large SUVs. The KDH series has much less body roll compared to the previous LH series, but it isn't great as handling of a car. I notice the difference in handling when I drive the Hiace after driving our Bluebird which has front and rear independent suspension. Comfort It doesn't handle large potholes and bumps as good as a car, but it does manage to soften small potholes pretty well. The diesel engine noise is evident compared to a hybrid or petrol vehicle but the noise reduces when the vehicle gets to the third gear or at around 70+ km/h speed. The A/C is epic on the Hiace, it is one of the best cooling A/C I have come across, I rarely have to set the A/C temperature below 26 degree Celsius on auto mode and that is without the dual A/C. There is plenty of space inside, 7 or 8 people could travel on long journeys with their legs stretched out and not crammed. The second row seat is the best place to be in, you get the dual A/C right in front of you, it is acoustic sweet spot and minimal sunlight enters the cabin. Practicality It is quite a practical vehicle if you are using it occasionally or for long journeys as it can seat 8 comfortably yet carry plenty of luggage(you could fit around 4-5 large travelling bag placed horizontally), it has got atleast double the amount of luggage space compared to a Noah/Esquire. However it is bit of waste of money if you are using it on daily basis as fuel bills are gone be crazy and parking these are not that easy within city limits. In addition, maneuvering these around narrow roads requires some skills especially roads with tight bends. Second hand value and parts Selling a KDH isn't difficult at all, if you maintain them right there will always be people willing it to buy it from you. There are plenty of body parts available but 1KD engine parts are bit difficult to find and even if you do find, it will be expensive Some used parts prices are: Pair of tail lights: 15k for older design and 30k for new design Pair of headlight: more than 100k without the HID unit Rear door: around 40k Fog lights: around 20k What I have done with my Hiace The Modellista body kit came with the van from Japan itself and I added the Modellista grill later on Original Toyota spoiler which came painted pearl white I tinted the fog lamps yellow with Nightbreaker bulbs in them I have also replaced the rear seats which are rotatable and come with a table as well I have done some electronic mods as well, Installed a transcend DrivePro 200 Carrozzeria tweeters with crossover and JBL component speakers with crossover(thanks to @TheFlyingFox) https://streamable.com/ujkce I was planning on installing FIAMM horns, but the JDM side of my brain took over and I went with Mitsuba Alpha https://streamable.com/nbipn Note: click on the links to access the videos My dad had the body kit removed for a short period of time and during that time I drove it through some muddy terrain. It did well.
  7. 15 points
    The idea behind this document is to create a guide to buying a used car in Sri Lanka. This is just my preliminary draft, and if it's useful I hope the experts here will add/edit it, and create a final detailed guide, which maybe could be posted somewhere in autolanka (if they think its useful) Buying a used vehicle in Sri Lanka (This applies to purchase of a used car regardless of the price/age, and applies to all registered and 'reconditioned' vehicles.) 1. tests you can perform: ================ Engine ==== Before starting: - check the engine oil. Is it at the correct level? Yes: OK/Owner topped up No: Owner does not top up, engine burning oil, etc Color of oil - Light brown/colorless - engine is running reasonably good/recent service - black - engine running bad/never serviced Note: diesels tend to have dark/black engine oil After starting Did it start easily? Yes: OK No: problems in engine/battery/starter motor/tune/etc. does the exhaust show visible smoke (white, black, bluish or grey smoke)? this coud indicate engine problems such as oil burning, worn engine etc. -- note: diesels do occationally smoke a bit, especially under acceleration does it maintain operating temperature? - listen to the engine in idle - do you hear clattering, rattling, or any odd sounds? they could indicate various problems ranging from bent valves to broken mounts? note: diesels are somewhat louder than normal gasoline engines Test drive =========== Lets say you decide to go for a test drive.. .. Step out of the vehicle, and ask the owner to get it out of his driveway/car sale etc. As he does this observe the vehicle, and see if it smokes or struggles during the procedure. Look at the place where the vehicle was parked. If there is visible engine oil/coolant, etc this could indicate problems in the vehicle. (water may be visible from the car's A/C, this is normal). Ask the owner to drive you: 1. Along a rough road (so you can test the suspension) 2. On a good road, ask the owner to drive up to at least 56km/h (or whatever local speed limit) so you can see how the vehicle performs at high speed. Turn OFF the radio and A/C and listen to the car for rattles/hums Tip: a hum from front/rear may indicate need to replace wheel bearings (or what our people refer to as razors) - Stop the car and ask the owner to back up a small hill, and observe the car exhaust for smoke, this is a good test of the clutch/etc. Actual test drive: - First make sure the vehicle has insurance and road licence which are valid. Ask to see them. Then test drive the vehicle very carefully. Make sure you have a good flat road and there is very little traffic. Remember its an unfamiliar vehicle and proceed with caution. First, test the clutch and brakes. The clutch should engage neatly before releasing the pedal fully. If it engages very late, it could mean a blown clutch plate. If there are clutch/brake problems, don't drive any further, and ask the owner to resume driving. And ask yourself whether you are sure you want to buy this car, from someone who couldnt even do basic maintenance. Reviewing the owner How the owner behaves during the test drive can give you a clue of how s/he uses the vehicle in real life. For example: - Does he roll down the window and drive (even though there is an A/C) - this may indicate that the A/C rarely worked. - Does he drive like a rally driver (in which case you can buy the car if you are willing to buy an extra engine, transmission and suspension) How has s/he spent on the car? If he has spent a lot on cosmetics while ignoring real existing mechanical problems, then you should probably consider another car. Is s/he straightforward and honest? Does what the owner says match up to what you see? For example, if the owner said the car had 2 owners in total and the log book copy shows 4 owners, then they could be lying about other things, and you should be cautious. Sometimes owners make mistakes, or simply don't know an answer, but overall if the owner appears to be honest and straightforward, that is a positive sign. [Ask Questions As you review the car, ask questions from the owner. If you see anything odd, ask about it. If the owner is honest and straightforward, its a positive sign. Try to gauge how much of what the owner is telling is the truth. A good way to do this is to pretend you don't know something and ask a question. After the test drive ============ After you return to the owners house/car sale, ask the owner to pop the hood and inspect the engine. - check temperature management. The gauge inside the car should be half or less. Aside from the gage, the engine should be reasonably managing temperature and the fans should be working properly. - Carefully tap the radiator cap with the tip of your finger. If it burns your finger off, the temperature management isnt good. Similarly the engine bay should not be boiling hot (unless it's a Nissan ) Physical inspection of vehicle ===================== 1. Visual inspection: simply look at the car - see if the lines are straight. Look at the paint. Uneven areas could indicate repainting. - look at the wheel arches. Look at the brakes. Look under the car (front/rear) If possible, take the car to a service station and inspect the underneath. If this is not possible, try to look under the car and see what is visible at least - (carry a flashlight with you when you go to see the car). - look for rust, damage, etc. - look at the engine compartment. Are there odd wires and do things look as if they have been messed with? Sometimes legitimate mods (e.g. alarm systems, aftermarket headlamps) require new wiring but if you see a mess inside, it probably means the wiring has been messed up by local mechanics in which case you should think carefully whether you really want this car. - (If the vehicle is cold) carefully open the radiator cap - check if it contains coolant, and if there is any signs of oil (could indicate a head leak) Look at the engine. If it has a slight layer of dust its OK. If it is shiny and has a layer of oil that means it has been washed at a service station. I prefer a car which has a normal slightly dusty engine vs one that has been washed and scrubbed to 'look' new. - look for leaks in radiator pipes. (with the engine off) remove the engine oil cover - if you can see nice clean silver metal with perhaps yellow brown color (engine oil) this is a positive sign. (note: diesels do tend to have dark/black engine interior, this refers to gasoline vehicles only). - Look at the fluid levels of the various fluids (power steering, brake fluid, auto transmission if auto) - if they are not up to level it could indicate leaks or careless owner. - if the vehicle is hot you may be able to open the radiator overflow tank (be careful) and check if he uses coolant. Not using coolant indicates: 1. Owner is an idiot 2. Radiator has leak and owner is topping it up with ordinary water. Either case, don't buy the car. 2. Tap test gently tap the body of the car, with a fingernail (dont rap it loudly) as you walk around. Check the hood, front left and right side and back carefully, also doors (as these are the main accident prone areas). Other general ideas: - Ask the owner what maintenance was performed. If he tells you a list of things replaced/repaired, this is usually a good sign and means the owner took some effort to look after car. - check the mileage? Mileage can be modified - but if it corresponds with the appearance of the vehicle then it could be accurate. - ask for receipts particularly for the timing belt/clutch etc HAS THE VEHICLE BEEN SERVICED/WASHED? If the owner was so cheap that he couldn't service the vehicle before he sold it, then do you really want to buy a car from him/her? *Exception*: Sometimes the owner may be actively using the car in which case it may be a bit dusty but all the same he/she should have washed/serviced/detailed the car within a few days of deciding to sell it. Now Consider the actual condition of the vehicle and make a list of all problems you encountered: Scenario 1: vehicle has major problems which can be fixed ===================================== for example: - Clutch plate gone. - brakes not too good. -minor suspension probs (e.g. weak shocks). - minor engine probs (e.g. poor tune up). Indicates that the seller was a cheap idiot (or typical local) Verdict: Buy with caution, knowing there could be other existing problems, and repair BEFORE YOU DRIVE said vehicle. Scenario 2: Vehicle has minor problems which can be fixed later ========================================= - A/C not running cold enough. - Minor dings, dents, scratches. - Minor cosmetic issues. Verdict: Buy the car, but set aside money to fix those problems later on. Scenario 3: Vehicle has major problems which can't be fixed easily =========================================== - Chassis problems (cracks/bent chassis) - major engine problems (e.g. grey/white/black smoke, burning oil, head gasket leaks) - major suspension/mechanical problems - gearbox problems which would necessitate replacing gear box... so on. Verdict: don't buy the car, unless you own a garage, have a million to spare, or are plain crazy. Other costs Aside from the above, there are a number of things you usually have to do, when purchasing ANY used car. These usually include: - Insurance & road licence. - 4 tires. - full service/oil change/air filter etc. - brake pads/etc - New battery (if existing battery not too good). - Timing belt (if close to 100k km's or multiples of that). Many people will say they replaced the belt, they could be lying. It's easier to spend 10k and replace it than to undergo a broken belt and engine rebuild. If they have replaced the belt, you can get a good garage to visually inspect it. signs of a good vehicle: - Vehicle is clean. (As in, the owner has washed, cleaned, and serviced it.) - is in good mechanical condition (good engine, transmission, suspension, brakes, body) - owner has focused on maintaining the mechanical condition of the vehicle - Vehicle has been maintained properly and scheduled maintenance has been done, e.g. brakes, clutch, timing, etc have been replaced at the proper intervals as necessary. - owner cares about vehicle, services regularly, engine oil is not dirty - owner is upfront and honest about any flaws. - owner uses a good garage for maintenance, and used original/quality components Suggestion 1: To all the experts here, can you please add your comments/suggestions tips on buying a used car. Suggestion 2: Would it be possible for Autolanka readers/Admins to set up a car pricing guide? This could be something updated regularly to show average true market values (like edmunds.com) and be useful to people looking to purchase a car. If any Autolanka readers have suggestions on what they check when buying a used car, please add them here. Update: Top gear have some excellent tips here:
  8. 13 points
    Hello Gents, After months of research and patience, I have finally found "The One". A car I have been waiting to own for as long as I can remember... a 10th Generation Lancer. What I managed to get is a Lancer RalliArt. Since this particular model isn't available in Sri Lanka (to my knowledge), let me give a brief introduction to the car. Mitsubishi introduced the 10th generation Lancer (Referred to as the Lancer EX in Sri Lanka) in 2008 and it was certainly a different Lancer when compared to previous models. From the hooded brow over the headlights that give it an aggressive look, to the matching rear end, it was a brand new look for the Lancer. Back in 2008 when Mitsubishi launched the 10th gen Lancer, they only really had two variants: The Lancer EX (GLX, GLS, GT) and then the mighty track monster Evolution X. While the Lancer EX comes with engines ranging from 1.5L (4A91) through 2.0L (4J10 and 4B10) to 2.4L (4B12), the power of all these engines were in the range of 109 - 170 horsepower while the Evolution X has a 2.0L Turbo (4B11T) engine that outputs 276 horsepower (The FQ400 in the UK has a massive 403 hp!). That's a pretty big gap right there and Mitsubishi introduced the Lancer RalliArt in 2009 to bridge the gap. The RalliArt also has a 4B11T 2.0L turbocharged engine - the same engine that comes in the Evo X, de-tuned. It outputs 237hp - that's 54 less than the Evo. It's basically ideal for day-to-day use as well as a drive along a twisty road or a track if you are keen. To put it into perspective, if the Evolution is compatible with the Subaru WRX STi, then the RalliArt is head to head with the WRX. Throughout this thread I will try my best to log detailed information about the RalliArt (strengths, weaknesses, comparisons etc.) and also share information about the journey with my car. Hope this will be helpful to someone some day. Before going into any more detail, here she is...
  9. 13 points
    I'm pretty sure I've shared this before, but I can't seem to find my own post, so here goes again: A few years back, when it was high time I was to give my car a full paint job, I saw this offer on a local deal site where Mr P a i n t offered a 50% off for a paint job exceeding 100,000. The T&Cs said that the maximum discount that will be given is 50,000, which means you get a fixed 50,000 discount for all jobs exceeding 100,000. I obviously thought this was a good deal and wanted to make use of the opportunity. I had previously gone to many paint shops and obtained estimates, and all of them ranged between 80,000 - 100,000. The deal site specifically had mentioned "obtain your voucher here and THEN go to Mr P a i n t" to get an estimate. I did the opposite because I wanted to know how much they will charge for a full paint job. So I went there. Two guys inspected my car from top to bottom and they quoted 130,000 for the full paint job. So this meant that I will end up paying only 80,000 if I had a voucher. I asked the guy to give me an estimate. And he was typing out the estimate on the PC when I started inquiring about the deal they have currently going. He said that it's possible and asked me to bring the car again with the voucher. The guy then paused preparing the estimate and went away for a bit and came back. After coming back, he asked me if he can send me the estimate via fax the next day. Although I didn't notice anything fishy then, I said okay and left. I never got the estimate the following day, or even the day following that. So I called him. After multiple reminders, I got the estimate. With a figure of 180,000. As obvious as it is, they have taken into account the 50,000 benefit that I will be making from the deal and increased the estimate so that they wouldn't incur a loss. I was furious and called the guy who prepared the estimate and his response was "sir giyaata passe api oka gana kathaa karaa, sir ge car eke wadeta kohomath mey gaana yanawa". I totally lost my cool at that response and I rang up the manager and blasted him for misleading customers and trying to rip them off. I also made sure that I contacted the deal site and had the deal taken off before some other soul got caught to their scam. I was lucky I didn't fall for it. This might not be related to the quality of their work, but I personally wouldn't submit my car to a workshop that is known for ripping people off.
  10. 11 points
    The first thing that struck me when i sat down to drive this for the first time was the really low seating position - it did not take a lot of getting used to though. The height is of course adjustable and provides a much comfier driving position. The passengers seat on the other hand though cannot be height adjusted. The rear seats too don't have the fabled "magic seats" functionality where you can fold up the seats to increase space in the rear - but you can fold the seats down to create a humongous amount of boot space - I do not quite remember the exact capacity but it's quite a lot. Due to the shape of the roof , while the rear seats are quite comfortable and have a decent amount of space for your legs you might feel a bit of head room is missing. But it won't really translate into a problem - unless you are from Marhsall Eriksen's family . The SR grade (and the SE) for that matter comes with fabric seats - and the interior is black by default (for all grades) . So no "Baij Interiyal" advertisements on the classifieds for this model then. The materials for the seats are quite "scruffy" and the interior is a dust magnet. The material used on the seats particularly are prone to attract a lot of dust and small particles of whatnot. There are speakers on all four doors - something I noticed in other contemporary Hondas as well - the doors also have the same dust-attractive upholstery. I told you there's only a repair kit - but the good news is there is a bit of space in the rear that can double up as storage space or a spare wheel well - so if you're paranoid about having only a repair kit, you can easily carry around a spare The cockpit is contemporary Honda fare. The steering wheel itself is quite plush and has a nice feel to it - though the steering itself is light which I will talk about when i have an entry regarding handling. The usual controls are all there including the cruise control buttons and beneath the wheel you can find the paddle shifters (again paddle shifters + CVT is something i would talk about later) The control for the lane keep assistant is also in the steering wheel. Mind you the Wiper control stalk is on the right and the headlight control stalk is on the left - takes a bit of getting used to if you've previously driven JDM's only. The "Auto" mode in the Wiper means that it will enable the rain sensing wipers and depending on the amount of rain you get the speed will adjust as well. Nice touch but i personally feel it's a bit too dramatic. If i remember correctly the SE grade does not have rain sensing wipers. This being the SR grade you do not get a push start you need a key - the Push start button is there only on the EX trim. With the honda sensing package you get some features like proximity alerts, automatic breaking and lane departure warning. These can be turned on and off and the switches are located near the ignition on the right hand side along with the headlamp leveling switch. The shifter console includes the parking brake (yes there's no separate lever for that), the brake hold button (so your foot can be taken off the brake in for example color lights) there is also a button to toggle the eco-mode as well as to turn on and off auto-braking. Between these two buttons you would find the adaptive damper button on an EX-trim car. There cubby hole is quite small and disappointing given the fact that this is not an alto- and there are no individual cup holders etc - there is a circular holder that can easily accommodate a bottle in the storage area below the slide-able arm rest. This storage area also has a usb port that can be used with the infotainment system. However it has to be said both the usb outlets in front are not in the most accessible places. The other usb slot is practically invisible and hidden by the armrest console along with the HDMI port and Next to that is the 12V circular power outlet. Mind you there is another 12 V power outlet in the boot as well - handy when it comes to plug in your car vacuum. There is also dual zone climate control - other than the dedicated climate control panel fan speed etc can be set via the touch screen.
  11. 11 points
    Disclaimer: I did not want this car. I was perfectly happy with my Vios. I might have thought about getting a second car, but that was it. The car is a 2015 Toyotal Corolla Axio Hybrid, with the face lift. Okay so with that out of the way, do note I will be comparing the car mostly with my Vios, and also with a 2010 Prius and a 2013 Prius C when comparing the Toyota HSD (Hybrid Synergy Drive). Exterior 'Dat nose tho'. That is the most disruptive front end on a Corolla I have ever seen, bar none. It’s part of Toyota’s new design language, which came to being with the Lexus RX200h and got carried over to Toyota, as made evident by the Kouki Camrys, Axios and Aquas gracing the streets. However, you learn to get used to it, and eventually, from some angles, it even begins to look decent. Apart from that, the only other differences in the exterior are the improved rear lights (they look a lot better) and the introduction of brown as a body colour (not seen on JDMs since the KE7x models I think?), which replaces the beaten-to-death maroon. Interior The interior is mostly the same as the Zenki version, however, the dashboard can only be had in black now, plus the side a/c registers have been replaced with old school twist center twist type ones. There are also vents under the rear seats pointed at the rear passengers' feet, a la BMW X1 style. The sears on mine were beige, which is the apparently the "in" thing these days, god knows why, because they get stained if you even look at them for too long. I also like (and prefer) the regular (gated) shifter from the Aqua/Prius C rather than the center return in the Prius and Hondas. Oh and a thing of note; the B gear is the Toyota HSD equivalent of a Jake Brake which I find fascinating, and also very useful when climbing down inclines. The colour LCD is unobtrusive and offset to the right, and there’s also a tachometer, why I don’t know, since the left pedal is not connected to the engine in any way, but if I were to fathom a guess, it would be to keep the car as “normal” looking as possible. In fact, if I were to remove the hybrid emblems on the sides and replace the rear HSD emblem with a Start/Stop emblem, no one would know it was a hybrid. Bells and whistles The car has nearly every option box ticked, with the exception of LED head lamps, alloys and heated seats (don’t need them anyway). The dealer fitted alloys which actually look a good deal better than stock, and I don’t really mind the halogen head lamps. The car has Toyota’s new Safety Sense C system, which comprise of a trio of safety systems - Pre-collision warning - Lane Departure Alert - Auto High Beams I’ve got the latter two switched off, but I do use the pre-collision warning, because it also tell me when the car in front of me has moved off, which is useful for when I’ve got my nose buried in my phone sitting in traffic. Apart from that, it’s got basically got all the features of the current Allion/Premio, i.e. all auto windows, rear wiper, auto headlights, climate control, adjustable driver’s seat height etc. Driving and comfort Omfg, the steering. I used to think light steering was the bomb, with the few times I’d driven other hybrids, but eff me if the electric steering in the Axio Hybrid isn’t the numbest steering system on the planet. I can turn the wheel with my pinky, effortlessly. There is absolutely no feedback, at ALL; it gives zero indication as to what surface the wheels are on. I can be doing 80, and have no clue kind of road I’m on; the tire hum gives me more feedback than the steering wheel. The suspension is plush, but I have no lack of confidence when throwing the car into a corner, it remains planted on the road pretty well. It does dive during hard braking, something the Vios simply did not do; I would stand on the brake pedal and it would merely stop on a dime, flat and completely composed. The Corolla actually stops better, but it does so with ass in the air. Hybrid performance I usually drive in ECO mode, mostly because the car defaults to that if it is not driven for a few hours, and I can’t be arsed to press the ECO mode button all the time. The car has “only” 99hp combined, even though the engine is good for 74hp and the motor is capable of 40hp on it’s own. Clearly things have been over engineered in this case. Acceleration isn’t blinding, but pick up from a standstill with ECO mode off is clearly better than the Vios (thanks to all that low down torque from the motor). It’s clear even during hard acceleration the car is not struggling, and that it can do better. I assume they’ve tuned the firmware on the eCVT to keep engine stress down to the very bare minimum. Speaking of eCVT, the car has no gearbox; just two motors (one is used mostly as a generator) sitting between the engine and the wheels. The transition from EV to ICE and vice versa is much better, and quicker than a 2010 Prius. When the ICE comes on, it feels like VTEC just kicked. I often find myself looking at the tacho to see if the ICE is on or not, because road noise easily overcomes the engine noise when travelling at 40km/h and above. The EV mode is good for accelerating up to 60km/h or so, and I’ve managed to sustain as much as 70km/h on a flat gradient for brief periods of time. Driving in EV mode is a sublime experience, and I doubt I could ever go back to a regular ICE powered car unless it was an uber quiet euro. That fact also makes me yearn to own a LEAF, and I’m already working towards obtaining one by mid of next year. “Aiye, meka thel karanne kiyak witharada?” I managed to do 672kms on the first full tank. The journey consisted of mostly 100km/h+ speeds on the way to, and around, southern Sri Lanka. The average Colombo run is between 18kmpl to 20kmpl (paying attention to the real time gauge is pointless), with a maximum of 23kmpl reached during the trip mentioned above. I’ve posted a photo of the current stats, and you can see from the average speed I’m not exaggerating. So to wrap things up, I’m more or less satisfied with the car. I certainly like the fact that there aren’t many brown Axios out there yet (I see maybe one every two days). Without going into a tirade, I’ll say that I enjoy not wasting as much fuel as I used to for the past 15 odd years I’ve been legally driving. It has always been something that was on my mind while tolerating the grind from the Kotte area to Borella, and I’ve often thought that a hybrid would be ideal for this situation as it assuages my “waste not want not” mantra. And if certain detractors still believe that I bought this car to save on money (which many people do and I find absolutely nothing wrong with that), but I’m being all suave about it; I’ve got a fuel allowance which more than covered the fueling costs of my Vios while I had it, i.e. I spend 0 rupees on fuel out of hand and have enough left over to pamper the car with Modellista bits and bobs (coming soon).
  12. 11 points
    I do not see a logic to justify your decision. I have number of friends who regularly visit Sri Lanka but they all use rented vehicles during their stay here. For your financial analysis if you consider the time value of money (NPV), then you will lose more than the 12.25 figure predicted above. However if you intend to use the vehicle only twice in a year for two weeks each time, then are you going to let it idle for the rest of the year or leave it with your relatives? In either case the losses will be much higher and the troubles associated with leaving a vehicle attended or unattended will definitely off set the "feel good" factor by a huge margin.
  13. 10 points
    Hi Guys, I decided to convert my CS3 dashboard into a double din setup. My car came with the factory stereo and an in-dash 6 CD changer located at the bottom of the dash. This is how it used to look like: Note that I have removed the AC regulator knobs before the DIY. In order to do this, I had to obtain a double din conversion kit from eBay. This is what I got: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-METRA-95-7017B-DOUBLE-DIN-DASH-KIT-FOR-2002-2007-MITSUBISHI-LANCER-/181819356245?hash=item2a55473455 As you can see, the kit came with a kit that is 100% identical to the double din setup that comes in some JDM CS Lancers. The complicated part here is re-locating the AC controls to the lower part of the dash (where the CD changer is in the above photo). The first step was to remove the bezel around the stereo and the bezel that holds the CD changer in place. Then removed the head unit and the AC controls so that they can be relocated to where the CD changer was. Since this is a manual AC system with airflow controlled by a cable-operated system, it was not just an unplug-relocate-plug thing. Rather, the cables needed to be removed so that the AC control panel could be detached from the dashboard, then re-attach the cables through the CD changer opening. After the AC was relocated, it looked like this. As you can see the AC bezel that I got from eBay is a black one, I will need to get it resprayed to match the color of the dashboard. I tested the AC controls, air redirection and everything seemed to work as expected. The next part was to source a matching double din head unit. I was keen on buying a branded unit that had Bluetooth and support for a reverse camera, so I got hold of this. The model is Pioneer AVH-275BT and the unit cost me 38K including a reverse camera. few snapshot while installing the unit. mic and reverse camera after installing the unit overall it was not that difficult than i thought and really happy with the outcome. kudos to Davy who helped me to make this happened even sharing every steps to follow - which wanted to do by himself so badly - and specially to come out with this post :-)
  14. 10 points
    i will summarise what the Teg has been through from 2014 to 2018, in the next few blog posts. ENGINE The car went through 3 additional rebuilds since the first before things start working aright. indika was not the man to have done this with, as he had no experience with B series hondas, and my vision was lost on him. i was severely restricted by the budget of my dreams so i couldn't afford any better. having said that, i have spent 3 times more doing cheap repairs 4 times over than i have spent doing it right, once, with sabry at PAS. the reason my Brian Crower cams were not producing power was that i had not raised the compression adequately in my cylinders. as i was unaware of this, i was running stock compression, which was 10.8:1, which is the lowest compression honda designed for the B series: the GS-R auto. the BC website quite bluntly states that one has to have at least a CR of 12:1 for their cams to work. in this light i was experiencing something like "anti-VTEC" where the normal lobes created oodles of power and when the wild lobes are engaged the car bogs down due to compression and fuelling inadequacies. on this discovery, and being at a bad place personally at the time, i gave up on the BC cams, thinking i have reached the end of my limits with the Teg and i will not be able to complete this. for the first time in my life, i compensated. i backed out. i sold the cams to Rumesh Rajakulendran, who was building his BabyMilo EK9 racecar, and reverted to my auto GSR cams. it was a very low point to have seen those cams go. worse yet, Ruma was thrashing every event he entered and winning by a country mile. he never forgot to acknowledge me and the cams. to add to this, a few months beyond this incident, sabry and i were trying to tune it, and the engine broke. the bearings had given way. and so began... 1. the second rebuild i have her this time to a local garage, Shafiq's, in attidiya. he had a lot of experience i was told with B series hondas, and he seemed to know what he was doing. shafiq then pulled everything apart to find out that one of my chambers is not in line with the others. this required an overbore to remove the discrepancy, and bigger pistons. at this juncture Ashan Silva was kind enough to gift me a set of P72 +25bore Civic Type R pistons, which i used in the rebuild. the bearing failure had also cut the crank, so i had to machine the crank as well. sadly this rebuild lasted the 2000km break in time, and the bearings gave way again while i was on the highway to galle, and it was back to shafiq's for... 2. the third rebuild. the bore was ok now, but the crank had got cut again, and i was given the choice of machining it yet again, and then limping around, as it would not last many trips to 9000+ rpm, or buy a new crank. a crank from honda was around 80,000, while an entire B20B non VTEC CRV engine in toto was 55,000. the choice was obvious. so we harvested the crank from that engine and did the third rebuild. at this point i did some research and came to the conclusion that it was not a good idea to mix and match parts, such as take a b20 crank, pair it with b18 pistons and con rods, and then use a b18 head, as the measurements are all different. the garage thought naught of this and then went ahead. and again, i did the 2000km break in, and was on the dyno tuning it with sabry. the second power run produced 189whp and 280Nm of torque. and then the bearings broke. the engine seized. and this it was time again for *-drum roll please-* 3. THE FOURTH REBUILD!! i was out of money, out of patience, at my wits end. my dream had fallen apart. i cannot adequately communicate to you the dejection i felt when this broke for the third time. my heart just froze over and i was beyond emotion. this was it. Project R had come to its end. with a son on the way and a house planned to be built, i was drained. this was my strength, my love and my life and it has just broken down for what i thought was the last time. i needed space. time. to think this through. one thing was for sure, i was done giving the car to half baked garages. this needed a pro. i wanted this fixed. so i sent her to Platinum as i wanted Sabry to repair it. someday. he removed the engine and i brought the body home. where it went up on jack stands and stayed that way until i could either afford a rebuild, or i made up my mind to sell her for parts and keep the Book. she stayed this way for 8 months. during which time i removed the tyres, and stored them in my room, and every sunday i would head out, and wash her, clean the interior and apply siddhalepa on the rexin surfaces to keep away fungus. this was my ritual once a week for 8 months. until such time i could find the means to afford a rebuild, and sabry could bring the parts down. the day finally did arrive, and boy did sabry pull out a corker. he had plans. big plans. he wanted to do right by me what numerous other people couldn't, and he made this his pet project. we decided to use the block from the b20 engine i had, as my b18 block was fried. and anyhow a b20 would have better lower end torque and thus be an easier daily driver. also my head was perfect. there was no signs of valve or spring wear and it was functioning normally. i had during this time installed a set of ITR camshafts also, and we thought we'd leave that just as it is. so the B20 block was harvested and bored to 2100cc. everything else was brand new. we ordered... 1. An Eagle crankshafft. aluminium. rated for 1500whp, 2. Wiseco pistons and connecting rods. custom made for my b20 block/b18autoGSR head, to produce a CR of 13.0:1. 3. a block guard was installed as the chambers of the b20 are larger, and thus weaker than the b18. the b20 had a redline of 7200rpm. we were pushing the 10,000 limiter again. so a block guard is necessary to prevent the chambers from warping. 4. ACL bearings 5. 510cc EVO 4 injectors, with impedance reset to match the requirement 6. AEM 320LPH high flow fuel pump, with a fuel pressure regulator. sabry took about three weeks for the work, and she was out again in all her glory. she was built with massive tolerances, where, would i ever need to scratch that itch, a set of aftermarket cams or even boost upto 0.8 bar would be easily handled. she was built to last. i do have to appreciate the effort Sabry put into this, as at one point he had made a mistake on the height of the connecting rods, and he sent them back to wiseco to get down the right ones wiseco refused to refund as the mistake was not theirs. sabry bought a new set for the right measurement out of his own pocket. i've switched over to LiquiMOLY MOS2 10w-40 oil, and it has been smooth sailing so far. it is only now, that Project R has truly come alive.
  15. 10 points
    The law is not like a dictionary where they just release a new edition whenever there is an amendment. An amendment is read with the original Act. If you bothered to go down to at least the 2nd page, (rather than read the title on page one and give up), you'll see that it states that "The Motor Traffic Act (Chapter 203) (hereinafter referred to as “the principal enactment”) is hereby amended—". Which in relatively simple english states that the amendment is to be read with the original act. Furthermore if you bothered to goto the Department of Motor Traffic's website, you'll see that they clearly state what acts/chapters to refer! If you need to be spoon-fed to such a level, don't waste your time trying to read it. Whenever a police officer stops you say "Yes sir, sorry sir, I wont commit the offense again sir, I'll pay the fine sir, have a good day sir" and walk away. Side-note: Honestly, I think our education curriculum needs to include lessons on some practical life knowledge such as 1. how to read the country's constitution/laws (and the process of how they are formulated and enacted) 2. Resume writing and applying to jobs (not demand jobs outside a railway station and become a nuisance to everyone else) 3. Basic taxes and banking Things like this can really help ANYONE succeed in life rather than be turned into a selfish politician's monkey. Today a politician just needs to play a racist tune, xenophobic tune, or koti-nagitinawo tune and the monkeys dance all over fort railway station or in the facebook-meme factory.
  16. 9 points
    Oh great.I had so many sleepless nights wondering what Bubi would like better, a Merc or a Beemer. Thank you for digging up a 4 year old thread and letting us know
  17. 9 points
    I don't understand how you end up spending 120K for renting a vehicle in Sri lanka. What's the vacation period there? 1 month? 2 months? For about 40-50k a month, you can get a decent car on rent for a month (I have been in rental car business). You must be renting SUV's which are useless most of the time, difficult to park and difficult to manipulate in traffic. Anyway since Rumesh and Sierra were talking about NPV, I took the liberty of opening up an excel and doing a calculation for you. Option 1: Renting a car - Rs. 120,000 a year for 5 years - NPV at 10% discount rate is Rs 454,890 (you end up spending Rs. 454,890 in today's money over a 5 year period) Option 2: Buy a car for Rs. 2,000,000, transfer fees 7,000, insurance at 25,000 a year, repair at 25,000 a year, revenue license at 4,000 a year, smoke test at 1,000 a year, service at 15,000 a year (2 service per year) gives a total initial spend of 2,078,000 for first year + 70,000 for subsequent years and a residual value (resale after 5 yrs) is considered as 2,000,000 - gives an NPV of Rs. 961,861 (you end up losing Rs. 961,861 in today's money) Option 3: Buy a car with third party insurance and run without a single accident for 5 years - all above costs minus the 25k a year for insurance - NPV of Rs. 889,819 (you end up losing Rs. 889,819 in today's money) and i'm not even considering the opportunity cost of spending money upfront on a car. I'll leave it to you to decide.
  18. 9 points
    You know what's funny.... If hybrids were taxed at the same rate as conventional cars, then all these fanboys will be bitching hybrids saying parts are expensive, batteries cause pollution etc. But because they are cheap... we hear sentences like 'luxury of driving hybrids'.... ane huke...
  19. 9 points
    First of all, your statement about Stafford being same as Auto Miraj can be extended to say Stafford and Auto Miraj is same as Wela Langa Saima's Three Wheel service centre... You obviously know its not true. You asked this stupid question earlier. Many, including myself, replied and again you are asking the same question... Just because Auto Miraj has big buildings doesn't mean they are good. They are monkeys. They ruined the gearbox of my Cerato by pouring in CVT oil instead of normal auto gear oil. The irony is Auto Miraj is KIA authorized service center!!!! (more exclamation marks for you)... Secondly, just because some thel hinganna baboon is running his car for 10,000km without changing oil, you don't have to, unless you are a thel hinganna baboon yourself. Finally, if you don't know much about cars, just follow your agent's advice. That's the best advice we can give you.
  20. 9 points
    Did a bit of a quick draw analysis on cars prices advertised on a popular local classifieds, maybe it can be of some sort of numerical substance for the many of the arguments here It's work in progress, hopefully we can discover something interesting. https://medium.com/@crunch/galle-road-wars-part-1-c9b3e534a5a
  21. 9 points
    I think the main thing out of what you mentioned is the DVD. It's BluRay now innit.
  22. 9 points
    NIlantha do you also have a Aqua? The stuff you say resonates a lot with a certain Aqua group.. Everyone loosing sleep over 1kmpl and saving Rs.100 on an oil change thats done at most once in 2 months.
  23. 9 points
    Your friend should be happy that I'm not in SL. Otherwise I would've found him myself and kicked him in the ass. Why didn't he just go buy a jap car that has a 2C engine in the first place? I'm sure he could've found a luxurious Toyota Crown. I started my BMW ownership with a 1999 320D. Loved everything about it. Went on to get a 2002 320D while I was still there. When I moved to the US my first car was again a BMW a 2002 325i. Then got a 2007 335i, then a 2009 M3. I currently have a 2011 X5d and looking to replace that with a newer X5 and soon to come is either a M3 or a M2. That's how I feel about BMWs. Did you count how many that was? 6 and continuing!! You sir are an ASS!
  24. 8 points
    Finally she’s here😁Thanking all the members who helped me in various ways💪
  25. 8 points
    Are you certain you used enough Question marks?
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