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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/12/2015 in all areas

  1. 21 points
    I'm pretty sure I've shared this before, but I can't seem to find my own post, so here goes again: A few years back, when it was high time I was to give my car a full paint job, I saw this offer on a local deal site where Mr P a i n t offered a 50% off for a paint job exceeding 100,000. The T&Cs said that the maximum discount that will be given is 50,000, which means you get a fixed 50,000 discount for all jobs exceeding 100,000. I obviously thought this was a good deal and wanted to make use of the opportunity. I had previously gone to many paint shops and obtained estimates, and all of them ranged between 80,000 - 100,000. The deal site specifically had mentioned "obtain your voucher here and THEN go to Mr P a i n t" to get an estimate. I did the opposite because I wanted to know how much they will charge for a full paint job. So I went there. Two guys inspected my car from top to bottom and they quoted 130,000 for the full paint job. So this meant that I will end up paying only 80,000 if I had a voucher. I asked the guy to give me an estimate. And he was typing out the estimate on the PC when I started inquiring about the deal they have currently going. He said that it's possible and asked me to bring the car again with the voucher. The guy then paused preparing the estimate and went away for a bit and came back. After coming back, he asked me if he can send me the estimate via fax the next day. Although I didn't notice anything fishy then, I said okay and left. I never got the estimate the following day, or even the day following that. So I called him. After multiple reminders, I got the estimate. With a figure of 180,000. As obvious as it is, they have taken into account the 50,000 benefit that I will be making from the deal and increased the estimate so that they wouldn't incur a loss. I was furious and called the guy who prepared the estimate and his response was "sir giyaata passe api oka gana kathaa karaa, sir ge car eke wadeta kohomath mey gaana yanawa". I totally lost my cool at that response and I rang up the manager and blasted him for misleading customers and trying to rip them off. I also made sure that I contacted the deal site and had the deal taken off before some other soul got caught to their scam. I was lucky I didn't fall for it. This might not be related to the quality of their work, but I personally wouldn't submit my car to a workshop that is known for ripping people off.
  2. 20 points
    Here's a write up on my Daily Driver - the new Civic 1 Litre Turbo - I've so far done just a bit over 1500 Km's and since the engine was new didn't really push it to the max and I have not yet been able to do a really long trip or a drive uphill to BUT I will continue to update the blog based on the experiences as well as services etc. For a start I will touch the basics as well as all the cosmetic stuff and then get into the overall driving experience and later on the services etc. There is also a dedicated thread in the forum that is quite informative. But I hope this blog will also prove useful to someone. First of all the basics.... In a nutshell the 2017 Civic is the 10th generation in the line up. The particular model I have, and is getting popular in SL goes under the model code FK6 and has a P10A2 engine which has a measly 988cc but is turbocharged. The car is made in the UK (at Honda's Swindon Plant). I have heard that the agents now bring it down as well. (6.2M for the SR) There are 3 grades for the 1L turbocharged civic. SE, SR and the EX. The SE is the most basic model with the EX being the highest (the Tech pack is a further extension of the EX) There is roughly a 5,000 GBP (~ 1 Mil LKR) price difference between the SE and the EX. The SR on the other hand sits comfortably in the middle - it does not have stuff like adaptive damper system that comes on the EX. The Honda UK website lists down the differences of each grade under a section called 'Build your Honda' or something. If you're interested do have a look. There are 7 colors available and the Rallye Red is the standard . Every other color will cost around 500 GBP more . There is also the "Orange Line Pack" - which is basically an accessory kit that adds a touch of orange into everything - I've seen a few such cars in car sales in SL. Though I initially contemplated Sonic Grey, ended up with a Polished Metal Metallic specimen. With the 2017 Budget a new tax structure was introduced and under the engine capacity based taxation you'd be paying 17.5 m in taxes (1,754,976 LKR to be precise) for a brand new car with reasonable creature comforts and a bunch of bells and whistles which costs something between 4-5 mill based on the grade ( see above ) First Impressions For me the new Civic hatch looks like someone started designing and spent too much time doing a good job with the front and then ran out of time to design the posterior and hastily put an end to it. This explains the rather weird looking behind. The Sedan version I have to admit looks better. There's also waay too much plastic in the rear so much so that it looks like a joint venture between Honda and Arpico. There's a bit of aggressive styling at the front. The car is quite wide and it has a solid ground hugging look to it. As for the supposed vents you see at the front and the back - well those are fake. They're simply pieces of plastic made to look like vents. And yes it does have fog lights. I like the factory fitted black 17" alloys. Note the SE comes with 16" Alloys as opposed to the 17" found in the SR. Being a brand new car it came with a humongous bible-like user manual (thankfully in English) - along with the wheel lock nut as well as the tool kit and the tire repair kit (glue and the inflator which by now we are used to) If any of you intend to buy one from a regular car sale make sure they give you your wheel lock nut.
  3. 17 points
    The idea behind this document is to create a guide to buying a used car in Sri Lanka. This is just my preliminary draft, and if it's useful I hope the experts here will add/edit it, and create a final detailed guide, which maybe could be posted somewhere in autolanka (if they think its useful) Buying a used vehicle in Sri Lanka (This applies to purchase of a used car regardless of the price/age, and applies to all registered and 'reconditioned' vehicles.) 1. tests you can perform: ================ Engine ==== Before starting: - check the engine oil. Is it at the correct level? Yes: OK/Owner topped up No: Owner does not top up, engine burning oil, etc Color of oil - Light brown/colorless - engine is running reasonably good/recent service - black - engine running bad/never serviced Note: diesels tend to have dark/black engine oil After starting Did it start easily? Yes: OK No: problems in engine/battery/starter motor/tune/etc. does the exhaust show visible smoke (white, black, bluish or grey smoke)? this coud indicate engine problems such as oil burning, worn engine etc. -- note: diesels do occationally smoke a bit, especially under acceleration does it maintain operating temperature? - listen to the engine in idle - do you hear clattering, rattling, or any odd sounds? they could indicate various problems ranging from bent valves to broken mounts? note: diesels are somewhat louder than normal gasoline engines Test drive =========== Lets say you decide to go for a test drive.. .. Step out of the vehicle, and ask the owner to get it out of his driveway/car sale etc. As he does this observe the vehicle, and see if it smokes or struggles during the procedure. Look at the place where the vehicle was parked. If there is visible engine oil/coolant, etc this could indicate problems in the vehicle. (water may be visible from the car's A/C, this is normal). Ask the owner to drive you: 1. Along a rough road (so you can test the suspension) 2. On a good road, ask the owner to drive up to at least 56km/h (or whatever local speed limit) so you can see how the vehicle performs at high speed. Turn OFF the radio and A/C and listen to the car for rattles/hums Tip: a hum from front/rear may indicate need to replace wheel bearings (or what our people refer to as razors) - Stop the car and ask the owner to back up a small hill, and observe the car exhaust for smoke, this is a good test of the clutch/etc. Actual test drive: - First make sure the vehicle has insurance and road licence which are valid. Ask to see them. Then test drive the vehicle very carefully. Make sure you have a good flat road and there is very little traffic. Remember its an unfamiliar vehicle and proceed with caution. First, test the clutch and brakes. The clutch should engage neatly before releasing the pedal fully. If it engages very late, it could mean a blown clutch plate. If there are clutch/brake problems, don't drive any further, and ask the owner to resume driving. And ask yourself whether you are sure you want to buy this car, from someone who couldnt even do basic maintenance. Reviewing the owner How the owner behaves during the test drive can give you a clue of how s/he uses the vehicle in real life. For example: - Does he roll down the window and drive (even though there is an A/C) - this may indicate that the A/C rarely worked. - Does he drive like a rally driver (in which case you can buy the car if you are willing to buy an extra engine, transmission and suspension) How has s/he spent on the car? If he has spent a lot on cosmetics while ignoring real existing mechanical problems, then you should probably consider another car. Is s/he straightforward and honest? Does what the owner says match up to what you see? For example, if the owner said the car had 2 owners in total and the log book copy shows 4 owners, then they could be lying about other things, and you should be cautious. Sometimes owners make mistakes, or simply don't know an answer, but overall if the owner appears to be honest and straightforward, that is a positive sign. [Ask Questions As you review the car, ask questions from the owner. If you see anything odd, ask about it. If the owner is honest and straightforward, its a positive sign. Try to gauge how much of what the owner is telling is the truth. A good way to do this is to pretend you don't know something and ask a question. After the test drive ============ After you return to the owners house/car sale, ask the owner to pop the hood and inspect the engine. - check temperature management. The gauge inside the car should be half or less. Aside from the gage, the engine should be reasonably managing temperature and the fans should be working properly. - Carefully tap the radiator cap with the tip of your finger. If it burns your finger off, the temperature management isnt good. Similarly the engine bay should not be boiling hot (unless it's a Nissan ) Physical inspection of vehicle ===================== 1. Visual inspection: simply look at the car - see if the lines are straight. Look at the paint. Uneven areas could indicate repainting. - look at the wheel arches. Look at the brakes. Look under the car (front/rear) If possible, take the car to a service station and inspect the underneath. If this is not possible, try to look under the car and see what is visible at least - (carry a flashlight with you when you go to see the car). - look for rust, damage, etc. - look at the engine compartment. Are there odd wires and do things look as if they have been messed with? Sometimes legitimate mods (e.g. alarm systems, aftermarket headlamps) require new wiring but if you see a mess inside, it probably means the wiring has been messed up by local mechanics in which case you should think carefully whether you really want this car. - (If the vehicle is cold) carefully open the radiator cap - check if it contains coolant, and if there is any signs of oil (could indicate a head leak) Look at the engine. If it has a slight layer of dust its OK. If it is shiny and has a layer of oil that means it has been washed at a service station. I prefer a car which has a normal slightly dusty engine vs one that has been washed and scrubbed to 'look' new. - look for leaks in radiator pipes. (with the engine off) remove the engine oil cover - if you can see nice clean silver metal with perhaps yellow brown color (engine oil) this is a positive sign. (note: diesels do tend to have dark/black engine interior, this refers to gasoline vehicles only). - Look at the fluid levels of the various fluids (power steering, brake fluid, auto transmission if auto) - if they are not up to level it could indicate leaks or careless owner. - if the vehicle is hot you may be able to open the radiator overflow tank (be careful) and check if he uses coolant. Not using coolant indicates: 1. Owner is an idiot 2. Radiator has leak and owner is topping it up with ordinary water. Either case, don't buy the car. 2. Tap test gently tap the body of the car, with a fingernail (dont rap it loudly) as you walk around. Check the hood, front left and right side and back carefully, also doors (as these are the main accident prone areas). Other general ideas: - Ask the owner what maintenance was performed. If he tells you a list of things replaced/repaired, this is usually a good sign and means the owner took some effort to look after car. - check the mileage? Mileage can be modified - but if it corresponds with the appearance of the vehicle then it could be accurate. - ask for receipts particularly for the timing belt/clutch etc HAS THE VEHICLE BEEN SERVICED/WASHED? If the owner was so cheap that he couldn't service the vehicle before he sold it, then do you really want to buy a car from him/her? *Exception*: Sometimes the owner may be actively using the car in which case it may be a bit dusty but all the same he/she should have washed/serviced/detailed the car within a few days of deciding to sell it. Now Consider the actual condition of the vehicle and make a list of all problems you encountered: Scenario 1: vehicle has major problems which can be fixed ===================================== for example: - Clutch plate gone. - brakes not too good. -minor suspension probs (e.g. weak shocks). - minor engine probs (e.g. poor tune up). Indicates that the seller was a cheap idiot (or typical local) Verdict: Buy with caution, knowing there could be other existing problems, and repair BEFORE YOU DRIVE said vehicle. Scenario 2: Vehicle has minor problems which can be fixed later ========================================= - A/C not running cold enough. - Minor dings, dents, scratches. - Minor cosmetic issues. Verdict: Buy the car, but set aside money to fix those problems later on. Scenario 3: Vehicle has major problems which can't be fixed easily =========================================== - Chassis problems (cracks/bent chassis) - major engine problems (e.g. grey/white/black smoke, burning oil, head gasket leaks) - major suspension/mechanical problems - gearbox problems which would necessitate replacing gear box... so on. Verdict: don't buy the car, unless you own a garage, have a million to spare, or are plain crazy. Other costs Aside from the above, there are a number of things you usually have to do, when purchasing ANY used car. These usually include: - Insurance & road licence. - 4 tires. - full service/oil change/air filter etc. - brake pads/etc - New battery (if existing battery not too good). - Timing belt (if close to 100k km's or multiples of that). Many people will say they replaced the belt, they could be lying. It's easier to spend 10k and replace it than to undergo a broken belt and engine rebuild. If they have replaced the belt, you can get a good garage to visually inspect it. signs of a good vehicle: - Vehicle is clean. (As in, the owner has washed, cleaned, and serviced it.) - is in good mechanical condition (good engine, transmission, suspension, brakes, body) - owner has focused on maintaining the mechanical condition of the vehicle - Vehicle has been maintained properly and scheduled maintenance has been done, e.g. brakes, clutch, timing, etc have been replaced at the proper intervals as necessary. - owner cares about vehicle, services regularly, engine oil is not dirty - owner is upfront and honest about any flaws. - owner uses a good garage for maintenance, and used original/quality components Suggestion 1: To all the experts here, can you please add your comments/suggestions tips on buying a used car. Suggestion 2: Would it be possible for Autolanka readers/Admins to set up a car pricing guide? This could be something updated regularly to show average true market values (like edmunds.com) and be useful to people looking to purchase a car. If any Autolanka readers have suggestions on what they check when buying a used car, please add them here. Update: Top gear have some excellent tips here:
  4. 16 points
    It's been little more than 4 years with my Hiace and it has done around 76,000kms so I thought its time I give you guys an update on it. Let me start the blog with the basics, Mine is a Toyota Hiace KDH206, this variant of Hiace is fitted with a 1KD-FTV turbo engine with an all wheel drive system. The AWD system in the KDH series is pretty much full time, it runs on all four wheels normally and if any of the wheels experience a slippage, the vehicle stops sending power to that specific wheel. There is a noticeable difference between the AWD variant(KDH206) and RWD variant(KDH201). The KDH206 is around 100kg heavier and you could feel that through the steering when you drive one. In addition, the KDH206 feels far more planted at higher speeds and around corners than the RWD variant. However the downside is that the full time AWD system drinks bit more fuel than RWD version. Cost of Maintenance In short the Hiace is not cheap run, I get fuel economy of around 6km/l in kandy and around 9-10km/l outstation, the RWD KDH201 would return around another extra 2km more per litre. Hiace is originally fitted with 195/80R15 8ply tyres and they cost around 22-23.5K per tyre from brands like Continental or Pirelli, while Maxxis tyre could be found for around 16k. The Hiace requires 0W-30 oil and a regular service which needs to be carried out every 5000km costs around 10K using Toyota oil, I was using Toyota oil filter as well, but now I have switched to VIC. ATF oil must be changed around every 40k kms, I change air filter and cabin filter every year. It requires super diesel and this is an absolute must, if you regularly pump auto diesel you will pay more in repairs than what you saved by pumping auto diesel. The most likely issues you would get from pumping auto diesel are DPF, which costs around 70-80k to replace and injectors, which would set you back around 500k for all four. So far I had to change only a bush which costed around 50rs, apart from that I have not had any repairs. Performance The Hiace pulls pretty well for a vehicle which weighs 2 tonnes, the 1KD-FTV with a variable nozzle turbo produces 100kw at 3400RPM and 300nm of torque at 1200-3200rpm and it is connected to a 4 speed conventional automatic gearbox. Overtaking other vehicles with Hiace is pretty easy, you just have to put your foot down, the turbo will come to life and you would be gone. It is always on the right gear, there's no unnecessary downshifts or up shifts, the gearing ratios are perfectly synced with the power band of the engine although it is only a 4 speed gearbox in a world of 6 and 7 speed gearboxes. The Hiace properly comes to life on hill climbs with the help of low end power and variable nozzle turbo. Handling is fairly good for a van, it handles better than large SUVs. The KDH series has much less body roll compared to the previous LH series, but it isn't great as handling of a car. I notice the difference in handling when I drive the Hiace after driving our Bluebird which has front and rear independent suspension. Comfort It doesn't handle large potholes and bumps as good as a car, but it does manage to soften small potholes pretty well. The diesel engine noise is evident compared to a hybrid or petrol vehicle but the noise reduces when the vehicle gets to the third gear or at around 70+ km/h speed. The A/C is epic on the Hiace, it is one of the best cooling A/C I have come across, I rarely have to set the A/C temperature below 26 degree Celsius on auto mode and that is without the dual A/C. There is plenty of space inside, 7 or 8 people could travel on long journeys with their legs stretched out and not crammed. The second row seat is the best place to be in, you get the dual A/C right in front of you, it is acoustic sweet spot and minimal sunlight enters the cabin. Practicality It is quite a practical vehicle if you are using it occasionally or for long journeys as it can seat 8 comfortably yet carry plenty of luggage(you could fit around 4-5 large travelling bag placed horizontally), it has got atleast double the amount of luggage space compared to a Noah/Esquire. However it is bit of waste of money if you are using it on daily basis as fuel bills are gone be crazy and parking these are not that easy within city limits. In addition, maneuvering these around narrow roads requires some skills especially roads with tight bends. Second hand value and parts Selling a KDH isn't difficult at all, if you maintain them right there will always be people willing it to buy it from you. There are plenty of body parts available but 1KD engine parts are bit difficult to find and even if you do find, it will be expensive Some used parts prices are: Pair of tail lights: 15k for older design and 30k for new design Pair of headlight: more than 100k without the HID unit Rear door: around 40k Fog lights: around 20k What I have done with my Hiace The Modellista body kit came with the van from Japan itself and I added the Modellista grill later on Original Toyota spoiler which came painted pearl white I tinted the fog lamps yellow with Nightbreaker bulbs in them I have also replaced the rear seats which are rotatable and come with a table as well I have done some electronic mods as well, Installed a transcend DrivePro 200 Carrozzeria tweeters with crossover and JBL component speakers with crossover(thanks to @TheFlyingFox) https://streamable.com/ujkce I was planning on installing FIAMM horns, but the JDM side of my brain took over and I went with Mitsuba Alpha https://streamable.com/nbipn Note: click on the links to access the videos My dad had the body kit removed for a short period of time and during that time I drove it through some muddy terrain. It did well.
  5. 13 points
    Hello Gents, After months of research and patience, I have finally found "The One". A car I have been waiting to own for as long as I can remember... a 10th Generation Lancer. What I managed to get is a Lancer RalliArt. Since this particular model isn't available in Sri Lanka (to my knowledge), let me give a brief introduction to the car. Mitsubishi introduced the 10th generation Lancer (Referred to as the Lancer EX in Sri Lanka) in 2008 and it was certainly a different Lancer when compared to previous models. From the hooded brow over the headlights that give it an aggressive look, to the matching rear end, it was a brand new look for the Lancer. Back in 2008 when Mitsubishi launched the 10th gen Lancer, they only really had two variants: The Lancer EX (GLX, GLS, GT) and then the mighty track monster Evolution X. While the Lancer EX comes with engines ranging from 1.5L (4A91) through 2.0L (4J10 and 4B10) to 2.4L (4B12), the power of all these engines were in the range of 109 - 170 horsepower while the Evolution X has a 2.0L Turbo (4B11T) engine that outputs 276 horsepower (The FQ400 in the UK has a massive 403 hp!). That's a pretty big gap right there and Mitsubishi introduced the Lancer RalliArt in 2009 to bridge the gap. The RalliArt also has a 4B11T 2.0L turbocharged engine - the same engine that comes in the Evo X, de-tuned. It outputs 237hp - that's 54 less than the Evo. It's basically ideal for day-to-day use as well as a drive along a twisty road or a track if you are keen. To put it into perspective, if the Evolution is compatible with the Subaru WRX STi, then the RalliArt is head to head with the WRX. Throughout this thread I will try my best to log detailed information about the RalliArt (strengths, weaknesses, comparisons etc.) and also share information about the journey with my car. Hope this will be helpful to someone some day. Before going into any more detail, here she is...
  6. 12 points
    There was an incident in the past where a man with one arm was driving a school van and he got arrested after several years of running this school van. In this country, anyone can get a driving license. I bet your pet dog also can get one if you spend enough money. There are special conditions where people with disabilities are given driving licenses. These are usually decided on a case by case basis after doctors recommendation. I think you need to go to NTMI (National Transport Medical Institute) and talk to the doctors there, your neighbourhood doctor's medical report won't be enough. In certain cases, they will permit the driving license bearer to drive specially modified vehicles and these vehicles also have special registration numbers (PZ-XXXX). You may have seen war-disabled soldiers who would like to make a livelihood, driving three wheelers with PZ- plates. However, Motor Neuron Disease is something that may affect your own safety and others' safety as well. Chances of you getting a driver's license with this condition is relatively low. You should check with NTMI on this one. The place is located opposite St. John's College, Nugegoda, very close to the flyover entry point.
  7. 12 points
    Change your mechanic. Can I suggest a cheap fix? Fill the tank up, pour in a can of 3M injector Cleaner or Wurth (NOT SOLTRON), Take the car out on the highway and run at 100km/h for at least a 50Kms (Kottawa-Hikka and back). Run without AC. Floor it, accelerate, on and off, basically, accelerate the shit out if it and you might clear the gremlins off. It's called an Italian tune and it works for Jap cars too.. But don't kill yourself or get caught speeding.
  8. 11 points
    The first thing that struck me when i sat down to drive this for the first time was the really low seating position - it did not take a lot of getting used to though. The height is of course adjustable and provides a much comfier driving position. The passengers seat on the other hand though cannot be height adjusted. The rear seats too don't have the fabled "magic seats" functionality where you can fold up the seats to increase space in the rear - but you can fold the seats down to create a humongous amount of boot space - I do not quite remember the exact capacity but it's quite a lot. Due to the shape of the roof , while the rear seats are quite comfortable and have a decent amount of space for your legs you might feel a bit of head room is missing. But it won't really translate into a problem - unless you are from Marhsall Eriksen's family . The SR grade (and the SE) for that matter comes with fabric seats - and the interior is black by default (for all grades) . So no "Baij Interiyal" advertisements on the classifieds for this model then. The materials for the seats are quite "scruffy" and the interior is a dust magnet. The material used on the seats particularly are prone to attract a lot of dust and small particles of whatnot. There are speakers on all four doors - something I noticed in other contemporary Hondas as well - the doors also have the same dust-attractive upholstery. I told you there's only a repair kit - but the good news is there is a bit of space in the rear that can double up as storage space or a spare wheel well - so if you're paranoid about having only a repair kit, you can easily carry around a spare The cockpit is contemporary Honda fare. The steering wheel itself is quite plush and has a nice feel to it - though the steering itself is light which I will talk about when i have an entry regarding handling. The usual controls are all there including the cruise control buttons and beneath the wheel you can find the paddle shifters (again paddle shifters + CVT is something i would talk about later) The control for the lane keep assistant is also in the steering wheel. Mind you the Wiper control stalk is on the right and the headlight control stalk is on the left - takes a bit of getting used to if you've previously driven JDM's only. The "Auto" mode in the Wiper means that it will enable the rain sensing wipers and depending on the amount of rain you get the speed will adjust as well. Nice touch but i personally feel it's a bit too dramatic. If i remember correctly the SE grade does not have rain sensing wipers. This being the SR grade you do not get a push start you need a key - the Push start button is there only on the EX trim. With the honda sensing package you get some features like proximity alerts, automatic breaking and lane departure warning. These can be turned on and off and the switches are located near the ignition on the right hand side along with the headlamp leveling switch. The shifter console includes the parking brake (yes there's no separate lever for that), the brake hold button (so your foot can be taken off the brake in for example color lights) there is also a button to toggle the eco-mode as well as to turn on and off auto-braking. Between these two buttons you would find the adaptive damper button on an EX-trim car. There cubby hole is quite small and disappointing given the fact that this is not an alto- and there are no individual cup holders etc - there is a circular holder that can easily accommodate a bottle in the storage area below the slide-able arm rest. This storage area also has a usb port that can be used with the infotainment system. However it has to be said both the usb outlets in front are not in the most accessible places. The other usb slot is practically invisible and hidden by the armrest console along with the HDMI port and Next to that is the 12V circular power outlet. Mind you there is another 12 V power outlet in the boot as well - handy when it comes to plug in your car vacuum. There is also dual zone climate control - other than the dedicated climate control panel fan speed etc can be set via the touch screen.
  9. 11 points
    As many have pointed out, when owning a car you have to cope with additional costs as well. Let’s say you buy a used Japanese car which is within your budget. From my experience, I know that It would set you back around 2,000-3,000 rupees per month on average for maintaining an old car. This is the average spending per month for all the costs that occur throughout the years such as insurance, servicing, repairs etc. For ease, let’s make it Rs 2,500 per month. You say you have to travel around 500Km’s per month. Let’s assume your car does 10Kmpl and it runs on petrol. So that means you have to fill in about 50 liters of petrol per month which adds up to around Rs 5500. And on top of that you are on a full lease of around 25,000 rupees. When you add all of these up, you’ll be spending around Rs 33,000 (25,000+5500+2500) per month on the car and you’ll be left out with around Rs 37,000 to manage all the other expenses. So, do you think you can manage with that? You say you don’t have any savings as well isn’t it? So, I feel it’s a bit risky. If you buy a brand new Indian car for that budget, you’ll be able minimize the maintenance cost. But think about the depreciation. Brand new Indian cars depreciate over time very quickly compared to used Japs. Used japs within your price bracket do not lose their value that much. Most probably you’ll be able to sell it at the price you bought even after 4-5 years of ownership. So, even though you’ll be spending less on maintenance, you’ll be losing money due to depreciation when buying a new car. Let’s say over a 5 year period your brand new car loses Rs 200,000 in its value. That means you’ll be spending around 3,300 per month indirectly. So, ultimately there’s not much of a difference. In fact you’ll be losing more money if you go for a new car. Think about the other impacts of getting into debt as well. When you find it difficult to manage your other expenditures, your family life will also get affected. You’ll be even blaming your wife and pushing her for a job. A wife at home is actually a blessing. You’ll be free of most of the house hold duties since she’ll be managing all that. Trust me I know how easy it is from experience. If I were you, I would wait for another year or so without committing myself into debt on a car. I would save or invest the 25,000 and spend the other 8,000 or so on family. How about enjoying life with your newly married wife? Go on a trip or two. Buy her some nice gifts. Maybe some gold jewelry which would come handy in an emergency. Doing those things would be difficult when a kid or two comes aboard so enjoy life while you can. If you feel that saving money does not yield much of a return these days, get a loan and invest it on a land. I did that last year when the loan rates were reduced. When most of my friends were getting loans to purchase the latest hybrid, I kept my old Jap and purchased a land for a per purch value of Rs 350,000. After less than a year, the land value has risen up to Rs 450,000 per purch. Just think about the gain. Think wisely and act wisely. Don’t get in to debt without having at least Rs 100,000-200,000 as a reserve for an emergency. I wish all the best for you.
  10. 11 points
    I don't know why Vezel is bad, but I know this.. For our people ultimate vehicle to show off their wealth/status/ego or what ever the f**k they have in their minds over others is to buy them self a jeep. Jeep in the sense is not the one made by GM but all others that has its shape and categorized as SUVs falls in to this lot. namely Prado, Montero & etc... While all mudalalies,kuddas & other people who earns millions per month could afford those so called jeeps and their 3 kmpl figures our PROFESSIONALS never had a proper vehicle which falls in to the above jeep category that does 20kmpl and could buy @ 4million until now.. So as soon as weysal hit the market they didn't think twice to pawn their nut sack, borrow up to the last cent they could borrow and withdraw all the money saved for their childs education to buy this status symbol of a JEEP! Sadly, how life f**ks you is a marvel, now every Tom dick and Harry drives a weysal.... How you could be so special when they out number 3wheels during rush hour. So now they wonder, what the f**kery f**k did I do... Is weysal bad? How could every f****r on the road could buy a one.. Where the f**k is 20kmpl? Should I drive in "N" gear to achieve it.. Their mindset is so low now they are wishing high taxes on hybrids makes weysal less affordable and due to this no one else will buy these Jeeps anymore thus making them special... So is Vezel so bad????
  11. 10 points
    i will summarise what the Teg has been through from 2014 to 2018, in the next few blog posts. ENGINE The car went through 3 additional rebuilds since the first before things start working aright. indika was not the man to have done this with, as he had no experience with B series hondas, and my vision was lost on him. i was severely restricted by the budget of my dreams so i couldn't afford any better. having said that, i have spent 3 times more doing cheap repairs 4 times over than i have spent doing it right, once, with sabry at PAS. the reason my Brian Crower cams were not producing power was that i had not raised the compression adequately in my cylinders. as i was unaware of this, i was running stock compression, which was 10.8:1, which is the lowest compression honda designed for the B series: the GS-R auto. the BC website quite bluntly states that one has to have at least a CR of 12:1 for their cams to work. in this light i was experiencing something like "anti-VTEC" where the normal lobes created oodles of power and when the wild lobes are engaged the car bogs down due to compression and fuelling inadequacies. on this discovery, and being at a bad place personally at the time, i gave up on the BC cams, thinking i have reached the end of my limits with the Teg and i will not be able to complete this. for the first time in my life, i compensated. i backed out. i sold the cams to Rumesh Rajakulendran, who was building his BabyMilo EK9 racecar, and reverted to my auto GSR cams. it was a very low point to have seen those cams go. worse yet, Ruma was thrashing every event he entered and winning by a country mile. he never forgot to acknowledge me and the cams. to add to this, a few months beyond this incident, sabry and i were trying to tune it, and the engine broke. the bearings had given way. and so began... 1. the second rebuild i have her this time to a local garage, Shafiq's, in attidiya. he had a lot of experience i was told with B series hondas, and he seemed to know what he was doing. shafiq then pulled everything apart to find out that one of my chambers is not in line with the others. this required an overbore to remove the discrepancy, and bigger pistons. at this juncture Ashan Silva was kind enough to gift me a set of P72 +25bore Civic Type R pistons, which i used in the rebuild. the bearing failure had also cut the crank, so i had to machine the crank as well. sadly this rebuild lasted the 2000km break in time, and the bearings gave way again while i was on the highway to galle, and it was back to shafiq's for... 2. the third rebuild. the bore was ok now, but the crank had got cut again, and i was given the choice of machining it yet again, and then limping around, as it would not last many trips to 9000+ rpm, or buy a new crank. a crank from honda was around 80,000, while an entire B20B non VTEC CRV engine in toto was 55,000. the choice was obvious. so we harvested the crank from that engine and did the third rebuild. at this point i did some research and came to the conclusion that it was not a good idea to mix and match parts, such as take a b20 crank, pair it with b18 pistons and con rods, and then use a b18 head, as the measurements are all different. the garage thought naught of this and then went ahead. and again, i did the 2000km break in, and was on the dyno tuning it with sabry. the second power run produced 189whp and 280Nm of torque. and then the bearings broke. the engine seized. and this it was time again for *-drum roll please-* 3. THE FOURTH REBUILD!! i was out of money, out of patience, at my wits end. my dream had fallen apart. i cannot adequately communicate to you the dejection i felt when this broke for the third time. my heart just froze over and i was beyond emotion. this was it. Project R had come to its end. with a son on the way and a house planned to be built, i was drained. this was my strength, my love and my life and it has just broken down for what i thought was the last time. i needed space. time. to think this through. one thing was for sure, i was done giving the car to half baked garages. this needed a pro. i wanted this fixed. so i sent her to Platinum as i wanted Sabry to repair it. someday. he removed the engine and i brought the body home. where it went up on jack stands and stayed that way until i could either afford a rebuild, or i made up my mind to sell her for parts and keep the Book. she stayed this way for 8 months. during which time i removed the tyres, and stored them in my room, and every sunday i would head out, and wash her, clean the interior and apply siddhalepa on the rexin surfaces to keep away fungus. this was my ritual once a week for 8 months. until such time i could find the means to afford a rebuild, and sabry could bring the parts down. the day finally did arrive, and boy did sabry pull out a corker. he had plans. big plans. he wanted to do right by me what numerous other people couldn't, and he made this his pet project. we decided to use the block from the b20 engine i had, as my b18 block was fried. and anyhow a b20 would have better lower end torque and thus be an easier daily driver. also my head was perfect. there was no signs of valve or spring wear and it was functioning normally. i had during this time installed a set of ITR camshafts also, and we thought we'd leave that just as it is. so the B20 block was harvested and bored to 2100cc. everything else was brand new. we ordered... 1. An Eagle crankshafft. aluminium. rated for 1500whp, 2. Wiseco pistons and connecting rods. custom made for my b20 block/b18autoGSR head, to produce a CR of 13.0:1. 3. a block guard was installed as the chambers of the b20 are larger, and thus weaker than the b18. the b20 had a redline of 7200rpm. we were pushing the 10,000 limiter again. so a block guard is necessary to prevent the chambers from warping. 4. ACL bearings 5. 510cc EVO 4 injectors, with impedance reset to match the requirement 6. AEM 320LPH high flow fuel pump, with a fuel pressure regulator. sabry took about three weeks for the work, and she was out again in all her glory. she was built with massive tolerances, where, would i ever need to scratch that itch, a set of aftermarket cams or even boost upto 0.8 bar would be easily handled. she was built to last. i do have to appreciate the effort Sabry put into this, as at one point he had made a mistake on the height of the connecting rods, and he sent them back to wiseco to get down the right ones wiseco refused to refund as the mistake was not theirs. sabry bought a new set for the right measurement out of his own pocket. i've switched over to LiquiMOLY MOS2 10w-40 oil, and it has been smooth sailing so far. it is only now, that Project R has truly come alive.
  12. 10 points
    Amen to that - what Sri Lanka needs is an attitude change. For some reason we have been fed the subject/slave/vasal mentality for ages so that a large number of people think of political leaders as royals that deserve to be worshiped not just bloody ordinary people whose job is to address our issues - IMHO the country happily embraced the 'wadawasam' mentality during the last regime where there was a lot of appacchi/rajathuma sentiment. To be honest I'm embarrassed that in my country an airport, an airline, a stadium was named after the president who was still in power (reminds me of Tintin comics where general alcazar names the capital after himself) and a road gets named after a girl who sang a song of praise, that like centuries ago when a minister comes people have to make way, bow before them, roads have to be closed, that like in typical Game-of-thrones/ Mediveal fashion political goons can rape and plunder as they see fit. you can make airports roads and whatnot but the country will not progress as long as the majority live like stone age peasants cringing and bowing before their leaders licking boots and thinking that building a road was development.
  13. 10 points
    An old man goes to a doctor and complains that he has problems with his sex drive. The doctor asks "How old are you"? The man says he's 80 Then the doctor says it's normal for people to not have a sex drive at that age Then the man says "But doctor, all my friends who are same age as me, say that they do it at least three times a week" So the doctor replies "So you also say the same thing to your friends" Hope this answers your question.
  14. 10 points
    The most serious problem this country has is not all that. We have a power crisis. This country barely meets its power requirements and for about 6 months every year, the government needs to buy electricity from privately run mini diesel power stations to keep our lights switched on in the night. We don't have money to build new large power plants. The last time we tried to build one, we failed miserably, Now imagine the situation when we have 100,000 Nissan Leafs (or similar) in the country. A Nissan leaf with a 3300W charger takes all night (8 hours) to do a full charge (off Wikipedia). So lets assume a car is charged once in 4 days. 100,000 leafs x 1/4 x 3300 = 82.5MW. That's almost the capacity of Laxapana power plant - one of the biggest in the country! When these leeches with their electric cars aggravate our power crisis and if power cuts come in, who is going to pay for it? The poor kids who use one light bulb to study for their O/Ls and A/Ls. Its a pity that the power and energy minister, who is an electrical engineer, hasnt even thought about this. This country is not ready for electric cars. Not yet. And don't get me started about solar net metering. Even if you cover a 10-perch land with Solar panels, you won't be able to generate enough power to charge a Leaf.
  15. 10 points
    What's up with BMW owners these days?Just in the last month one douchebag in a 5 series banged in to my rear and tried to put the blame on me. Most of them drive like morons and park like assholes.Honestly I'd rather be a lane hogging Prius driver than be a self-entitled dickbag BMW driver with their oversized-sunglass-wearing loud mouth wifes and their spoiled kids.
  16. 10 points
    There is a hot chick who works in our building who drives a Vezel. Sometimes she parks next to mine. One day out of curiosity I checked out the inside of the car through the glass... a very prominent red/brown streak was on the driver seat. Either she shat herself in glee over the fact that she owns and drives a Vezel or she was riding her menstrual cycle at the same time with little or no coverage... Lets just say it was a bloody skid mark... LOL Either way she must have seen me looking inside and making a face coz she never looks at me now even in the lift.....
  17. 10 points
    This thread deserves an award for the sensibility of the question, the level of maturity people have shown in responding, and the active counter responses from the OP himself. I'm bookmarking this thread to share the next time someone asks "I can get a loan of $$$$$. should I buy A, B or C. It also goes to show that newbie-rape is not the norm here and the raping based on the newbie's individual attributes/stupidity.
  18. 10 points
    So I encountered a sad thing last night. Was out at Russel Peters show and since parking was an issue took a cab to and from the venue. The return trip when i Called for a cab, a white Vezel pulls in front of me and asks if I asked for a cab. I thought it was a joke and then realized it was bloody serious. Seems like the guy bought the Vezel recently and his salary does not cover the 'pinance', so after work in the evening he runs the Vezel to make some extra bucks. The hire was 540... I gave the bugger 600... sad. So yes, someone's worst fears have come true that they are indeed running Vezels as taxis.
  19. 10 points
    The MAIN problem with the Vezel is the entity that places it self between the driver's seat and the steering wheel. These entities have a tendency to: 1. Think they are super duper on the road and that they are driving a sports car or a go anywhere off roader 2. Hog lanes driving real slow save the planet of naughty naughty exaust gases 3. Sit around talk about how amazing their weasels are 4. Open threads on auto forums to justify their purchase and seek validation of/for their purchase. Apart from that it is a well put together little 1500cc car that would do everything any other 1500cc car would do (though with a heavier body it feels under powered even against its brother the Fit and suffocates when under load as any 1500cc car would). Also it gives u an AWD system that will help u with snow and rain but nothing much else. Now about your acceleration claim and your belief that acceleration = power. I get smoked by little 660cc engined kei cars off the mark at traffic lights and I am driving a 1600cc 160+hp car. Sure they smoke me only for a few seconds....but they do. Also look in to how electric motors vs. Gasoline motors work. That might make you realise why and when your Hybrid motor would pull u off the mark faster than an ICE car.
  20. 9 points
    NIlantha do you also have a Aqua? The stuff you say resonates a lot with a certain Aqua group.. Everyone loosing sleep over 1kmpl and saving Rs.100 on an oil change thats done at most once in 2 months.
  21. 9 points
    Been using a prius second gen for two years and it has 109000 on the clock now. I was working at Matara so used to travel every week from kandy to matara and back. Generally it comes to around 600kms and if not 530kms per week. Used a daihatsu terios and a suzuki swift (beetle model) prior to the prius and it cost me around Rs.9000 to Rs.7500 per trip on those. After I got the prius the cost went down to 5500 to 5000. Generally it does around 20-22. On the way down to matara, till kaduwela (cause its almost downhill from Kandy till Yakkala), it does around 23-24 and once you reach matara, it will go down to 22 or so. On the way to kandy, it will not do more than 20-22. Generally, I push it hard when driving back to kandy cause saving fuel is the last thing on my mind. Takes a hell lot of time if not. But with all that rough driving it does around 20 which is not bad. Well, to be honest, its not that economical to run. Even though in the short run it saved up around 2500 per trip since it was a high mile runner, certain repairs also came along and they were costly. Didnt have any issues with the battery, but had to replace the inverter water pump from toyota which cost a pretty penny. Other than that, regular servicing, gear oil changes, coolant changes along with the these so called "tune ups" were somewhat costly. But to be honest, other than the water pump issue, the car never gave me trouble and still runs fine. But I moved back to kandy and my daily commute is from kandy to peradeniya where it does 18.9 to 19.2 or so. Now ofcourse the cost of keeping it is useless. Seen some hybrid owners claim seriously silly mileage figures and talk about it being very economical. Thats all a load of crap. It saves in the short run (and that too only a couple of thousand) but when the repairs do come its costly.
  22. 9 points
    This I came across in another forum and thought of sharing, in case if it will help another. This is some technical info about cars with auto transmission gears . The story is directly related to something happened to me during last few days. Non of the four garages visited by me diagnosed the troubles of my car and I almost lost few laks of money due to wrongly diagnosing and actions done by mechanics. That is why I give this information to others. One of the garages is said to be operated by a BSc qualified Engineer. (not Mr Alawaththa) The entire episode is related to a gadget called 'Inhibitor switch' and I found no one in those repair places knew correctly about it. I write this because the know-how may help someone someday. This is a long story. If you are not interested in 'gadgematics' do not read it. In auto geared (automatic transmission) cars you can see the gear position in the dash board. When you change the gear lever to P, N, D , R or 1/2 positions it is indicated by lighting the correspondent bulb in the dash board. Power supply to the starting motor is also connected through the gear lever . Power to the starting motor is only connected when you place the lever in P or N positions. Hence in other positions you cannot start the car. My problem started with erroneous indications in the dash board. When I changed to D to run the vehicle it shows N although the car runs at D. When the troubles continued I couldn't start the car at P but sometimes it get connected at R or even D. At the same time when I change the gears the engine shake like doing it half clutch in manual cars. When I changed from N to D to start running it made 'dug' sound with big shake in the engine and it jump forward with unusual high power. At this stage I consulted garage people, two places. One fellow had a test run and diagnosed 'gear cable malfunctioning' or kebal eka edila. So you have to replace the cable to get the correct indication in the dash board. For the shaking of the engine , he suspected broken engine mounts . I went to a reliable cable repair place near Subadrarama temple closer to Gram Sabha junction, Nugegoda . They correctly said no error in the cable and didn't charge me a cent and asked me to check the 'gear changing switch'. I did not know where is this switch initially. Later I found that is called the Inhibitor Switch and located externally at the top of the gearbox . I went to another garage I know. They inspected and gave reasons for the shaking of the engine when changing from N to D. Diagnosed: Engine mount failure. Some mounts broken or loosened. Replacement cost 6500 + 7500 x 2 = approx 30,000.00 He also suggested changing of the gear cable. He almost started the job but fortunately, I had an important work and took the car away. At this stage I could start the car at D or R positions and not P or N. Apart from the big shake at changing N to D or from N to R, I had no trouble when running. I was instructed by the both places if I can start at D and do the running there will be no problem at all, irrespective of what indicated in the dashboard. Sir, that is just to show you the lever position and nothing else, they said. Within one week another major trouble started. I felt the gearbox is working only at 1 and 2 gears. Normally it should change 1 to 2 at pickup and then to 3 to top levels with the increasing speed, automatically. Now it changes only once, from lowest to the next . I could not run beyond 35kmph and RPM was much higher than usual. Again I took the car to the garages . Now the diagnosis was gearbox failure. As per the experts, all the troubles I had before were signs of this final outcome. Some wheels or parts of the automatic gearbox has damaged and you can't run the car with it. Only Low gear wheels are not broken yet. Repairing is not advised and what they do normally is fixing a new gearbox. Cost of a used imported gearbox is around 135-150,000.00 No other option now. I have to find two lakhs. The total job: Engine mounts : 30,000.00 Gearbox 150,000.00 Inhibitor switch 6000.00 labour cost 25,000.00 approx. Total 211,000.00 I was not satisfied at all about these garage people in the whole drama. I asked them the functioning of the Inhibitor switch in deep buy they couldn't give me satisfactory answers. As per them the switch is to track your lever position and indicate it in the dash board and cut the ignition power when you are not at Parked or at Neutral . Nothing else. I felt suspicious. All started with wrong indication of gear positions at the dashboard . That means the inhibitor switch is broken. After that the engine and the gearbox started malfunctioning. Hence, without letting others to remove the broken gearbox I decided to check the inhibitor switch my self. I removed the battery and its underneath panel to open inhibitor switch area. Normally it is placed under battery at the top of gearbox. (see image) There was a lever to connect it to the gear cable. The cable is connected to the hand stick inside the car. Inhibitor switch rotates when you change the gears and connect particular wires to send current to dashboard and other places. I removed and dismantled the switch and found the plastic 'hand' inside was broken. Hence bought a new one paying 5,500/- with 15% discount. I connected the new one to the wires and then fixed it to the gearbox . The correct positioning of gearbox and the switch can be achieved using indicator holes. They are aligned at N position. Then you have to place the gear lever (inside the car) at N position and connect the cable to the lever at top of the switch . In this way you place N inside the gearbox, N at the switch and N at the gear lever fixed to each other. Connecting current wires to the switch was the most difficult job. It has 9 connectors. After fixing everything I started the car. Changed to D. Nothing happened. For a second I thought even first gear is not functioning. Within second car started to move. I accelerated and had a run . Amazingly everything became normal . Gear changing is as good as or even better than a new car, done at correct speeds very smoothly . No shakes. No wrong indicator lights. RPM much lover . No mount problems. Gearbox is perfect. All the trouble was due to disconnected Inhibitor switch. Not only to the dashboard, it connects power to reverse light and connects some lines to the car computer. Actually gear controlling computer 'sees' the gear position using the signal from Inhibitor switch. Without the correct signal the controller cannot guide the gearbox to change the gears smoothly. That makes it behave badly. If anybody get this type of problems better to check and replace this switch before going for big work or replacements. Later I realized there is a designers laziness involved here. Instead of getting feed back from the gearbox to 'show' the gear position to the controller, the designers has done it in a very bad way. They fixed a switch in between the the hand gear lever and gearbox and monitor the gear cable to determine what inside the gearbox. If the gear cable elongated or some connectors in the switch weathered or broken its signals become not tallying with actual position. As the controller is blind to see the actual gear box and they made it to 'think' the signal from the switch is from the gearbox it guides the gearbox wrong way. My total cost was 5,500/- +travelling. By doing it myself I saved approx 200,000.00. http://investorsentiment.forumotion.net/t4788-technical-stuff-not-stocks-inhibitor-switch#35939
  23. 9 points
    Just tell me one thing. If you are in love with a girl and if your friends say you shouldnt marry her because she can't cook, then will you look for someone else? Do you let others take decisions on behalf of you? If you like the demio, buy it. Only god (or someone of equal ability) can say what the resale value of a car will be, after some time. I have a car with no resale value at all... im enjoying every moment in it. If I listened to siripala next door and bought an allion or premio, I would have hated to even step in to it.
  24. 9 points
    Not having kids helps a lot though... those buggers are expensive. Rather have the money to spend on some nice cars than to pay for some snotty nosed kid. Car you can sell and recover the investment or at least part of it.... selling kids are illegal... LOL
  25. 9 points
    Brylcreem of Gold Wet look... or even Pro-Sport would work if the ads are to be believed.
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