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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/17/2014 in all areas

  1. 21 points
    Here's a write up on my Daily Driver - the new Civic 1 Litre Turbo - I've so far done just a bit over 1500 Km's and since the engine was new didn't really push it to the max and I have not yet been able to do a really long trip or a drive uphill to BUT I will continue to update the blog based on the experiences as well as services etc. For a start I will touch the basics as well as all the cosmetic stuff and then get into the overall driving experience and later on the services etc. There is also a dedicated thread in the forum that is quite informative. But I hope this blog will also prove useful to someone. First of all the basics.... In a nutshell the 2017 Civic is the 10th generation in the line up. The particular model I have, and is getting popular in SL goes under the model code FK6 and has a P10A2 engine which has a measly 988cc but is turbocharged. The car is made in the UK (at Honda's Swindon Plant). I have heard that the agents now bring it down as well. (6.2M for the SR) There are 3 grades for the 1L turbocharged civic. SE, SR and the EX. The SE is the most basic model with the EX being the highest (the Tech pack is a further extension of the EX) There is roughly a 5,000 GBP (~ 1 Mil LKR) price difference between the SE and the EX. The SR on the other hand sits comfortably in the middle - it does not have stuff like adaptive damper system that comes on the EX. The Honda UK website lists down the differences of each grade under a section called 'Build your Honda' or something. If you're interested do have a look. There are 7 colors available and the Rallye Red is the standard . Every other color will cost around 500 GBP more . There is also the "Orange Line Pack" - which is basically an accessory kit that adds a touch of orange into everything - I've seen a few such cars in car sales in SL. Though I initially contemplated Sonic Grey, ended up with a Polished Metal Metallic specimen. With the 2017 Budget a new tax structure was introduced and under the engine capacity based taxation you'd be paying 17.5 m in taxes (1,754,976 LKR to be precise) for a brand new car with reasonable creature comforts and a bunch of bells and whistles which costs something between 4-5 mill based on the grade ( see above ) First Impressions For me the new Civic hatch looks like someone started designing and spent too much time doing a good job with the front and then ran out of time to design the posterior and hastily put an end to it. This explains the rather weird looking behind. The Sedan version I have to admit looks better. There's also waay too much plastic in the rear so much so that it looks like a joint venture between Honda and Arpico. There's a bit of aggressive styling at the front. The car is quite wide and it has a solid ground hugging look to it. As for the supposed vents you see at the front and the back - well those are fake. They're simply pieces of plastic made to look like vents. And yes it does have fog lights. I like the factory fitted black 17" alloys. Note the SE comes with 16" Alloys as opposed to the 17" found in the SR. Being a brand new car it came with a humongous bible-like user manual (thankfully in English) - along with the wheel lock nut as well as the tool kit and the tire repair kit (glue and the inflator which by now we are used to) If any of you intend to buy one from a regular car sale make sure they give you your wheel lock nut.
  2. 21 points
    I'm pretty sure I've shared this before, but I can't seem to find my own post, so here goes again: A few years back, when it was high time I was to give my car a full paint job, I saw this offer on a local deal site where Mr P a i n t offered a 50% off for a paint job exceeding 100,000. The T&Cs said that the maximum discount that will be given is 50,000, which means you get a fixed 50,000 discount for all jobs exceeding 100,000. I obviously thought this was a good deal and wanted to make use of the opportunity. I had previously gone to many paint shops and obtained estimates, and all of them ranged between 80,000 - 100,000. The deal site specifically had mentioned "obtain your voucher here and THEN go to Mr P a i n t" to get an estimate. I did the opposite because I wanted to know how much they will charge for a full paint job. So I went there. Two guys inspected my car from top to bottom and they quoted 130,000 for the full paint job. So this meant that I will end up paying only 80,000 if I had a voucher. I asked the guy to give me an estimate. And he was typing out the estimate on the PC when I started inquiring about the deal they have currently going. He said that it's possible and asked me to bring the car again with the voucher. The guy then paused preparing the estimate and went away for a bit and came back. After coming back, he asked me if he can send me the estimate via fax the next day. Although I didn't notice anything fishy then, I said okay and left. I never got the estimate the following day, or even the day following that. So I called him. After multiple reminders, I got the estimate. With a figure of 180,000. As obvious as it is, they have taken into account the 50,000 benefit that I will be making from the deal and increased the estimate so that they wouldn't incur a loss. I was furious and called the guy who prepared the estimate and his response was "sir giyaata passe api oka gana kathaa karaa, sir ge car eke wadeta kohomath mey gaana yanawa". I totally lost my cool at that response and I rang up the manager and blasted him for misleading customers and trying to rip them off. I also made sure that I contacted the deal site and had the deal taken off before some other soul got caught to their scam. I was lucky I didn't fall for it. This might not be related to the quality of their work, but I personally wouldn't submit my car to a workshop that is known for ripping people off.
  3. 17 points
    It's been little more than 4 years with my Hiace and it has done around 76,000kms so I thought its time I give you guys an update on it. Let me start the blog with the basics, Mine is a Toyota Hiace KDH206, this variant of Hiace is fitted with a 1KD-FTV turbo engine with an all wheel drive system. The AWD system in the KDH series is pretty much full time, it runs on all four wheels normally and if any of the wheels experience a slippage, the vehicle stops sending power to that specific wheel. There is a noticeable difference between the AWD variant(KDH206) and RWD variant(KDH201). The KDH206 is around 100kg heavier and you could feel that through the steering when you drive one. In addition, the KDH206 feels far more planted at higher speeds and around corners than the RWD variant. However the downside is that the full time AWD system drinks bit more fuel than RWD version. Cost of Maintenance In short the Hiace is not cheap run, I get fuel economy of around 6km/l in kandy and around 9-10km/l outstation, the RWD KDH201 would return around another extra 2km more per litre. Hiace is originally fitted with 195/80R15 8ply tyres and they cost around 22-23.5K per tyre from brands like Continental or Pirelli, while Maxxis tyre could be found for around 16k. The Hiace requires 0W-30 oil and a regular service which needs to be carried out every 5000km costs around 10K using Toyota oil, I was using Toyota oil filter as well, but now I have switched to VIC. ATF oil must be changed around every 40k kms, I change air filter and cabin filter every year. It requires super diesel and this is an absolute must, if you regularly pump auto diesel you will pay more in repairs than what you saved by pumping auto diesel. The most likely issues you would get from pumping auto diesel are DPF, which costs around 70-80k to replace and injectors, which would set you back around 500k for all four. So far I had to change only a bush which costed around 50rs, apart from that I have not had any repairs. Performance The Hiace pulls pretty well for a vehicle which weighs 2 tonnes, the 1KD-FTV with a variable nozzle turbo produces 100kw at 3400RPM and 300nm of torque at 1200-3200rpm and it is connected to a 4 speed conventional automatic gearbox. Overtaking other vehicles with Hiace is pretty easy, you just have to put your foot down, the turbo will come to life and you would be gone. It is always on the right gear, there's no unnecessary downshifts or up shifts, the gearing ratios are perfectly synced with the power band of the engine although it is only a 4 speed gearbox in a world of 6 and 7 speed gearboxes. The Hiace properly comes to life on hill climbs with the help of low end power and variable nozzle turbo. Handling is fairly good for a van, it handles better than large SUVs. The KDH series has much less body roll compared to the previous LH series, but it isn't great as handling of a car. I notice the difference in handling when I drive the Hiace after driving our Bluebird which has front and rear independent suspension. Comfort It doesn't handle large potholes and bumps as good as a car, but it does manage to soften small potholes pretty well. The diesel engine noise is evident compared to a hybrid or petrol vehicle but the noise reduces when the vehicle gets to the third gear or at around 70+ km/h speed. The A/C is epic on the Hiace, it is one of the best cooling A/C I have come across, I rarely have to set the A/C temperature below 26 degree Celsius on auto mode and that is without the dual A/C. There is plenty of space inside, 7 or 8 people could travel on long journeys with their legs stretched out and not crammed. The second row seat is the best place to be in, you get the dual A/C right in front of you, it is acoustic sweet spot and minimal sunlight enters the cabin. Practicality It is quite a practical vehicle if you are using it occasionally or for long journeys as it can seat 8 comfortably yet carry plenty of luggage(you could fit around 4-5 large travelling bag placed horizontally), it has got atleast double the amount of luggage space compared to a Noah/Esquire. However it is bit of waste of money if you are using it on daily basis as fuel bills are gone be crazy and parking these are not that easy within city limits. In addition, maneuvering these around narrow roads requires some skills especially roads with tight bends. Second hand value and parts Selling a KDH isn't difficult at all, if you maintain them right there will always be people willing it to buy it from you. There are plenty of body parts available but 1KD engine parts are bit difficult to find and even if you do find, it will be expensive Some used parts prices are: Pair of tail lights: 15k for older design and 30k for new design Pair of headlight: more than 100k without the HID unit Rear door: around 40k Fog lights: around 20k What I have done with my Hiace The Modellista body kit came with the van from Japan itself and I added the Modellista grill later on Original Toyota spoiler which came painted pearl white I tinted the fog lamps yellow with Nightbreaker bulbs in them I have also replaced the rear seats which are rotatable and come with a table as well I have done some electronic mods as well, Installed a transcend DrivePro 200 Carrozzeria tweeters with crossover and JBL component speakers with crossover(thanks to @TheFlyingFox) https://streamable.com/ujkce I was planning on installing FIAMM horns, but the JDM side of my brain took over and I went with Mitsuba Alpha https://streamable.com/nbipn Note: click on the links to access the videos My dad had the body kit removed for a short period of time and during that time I drove it through some muddy terrain. It did well.
  4. 17 points
    The idea behind this document is to create a guide to buying a used car in Sri Lanka. This is just my preliminary draft, and if it's useful I hope the experts here will add/edit it, and create a final detailed guide, which maybe could be posted somewhere in autolanka (if they think its useful) Buying a used vehicle in Sri Lanka (This applies to purchase of a used car regardless of the price/age, and applies to all registered and 'reconditioned' vehicles.) 1. tests you can perform: ================ Engine ==== Before starting: - check the engine oil. Is it at the correct level? Yes: OK/Owner topped up No: Owner does not top up, engine burning oil, etc Color of oil - Light brown/colorless - engine is running reasonably good/recent service - black - engine running bad/never serviced Note: diesels tend to have dark/black engine oil After starting Did it start easily? Yes: OK No: problems in engine/battery/starter motor/tune/etc. does the exhaust show visible smoke (white, black, bluish or grey smoke)? this coud indicate engine problems such as oil burning, worn engine etc. -- note: diesels do occationally smoke a bit, especially under acceleration does it maintain operating temperature? - listen to the engine in idle - do you hear clattering, rattling, or any odd sounds? they could indicate various problems ranging from bent valves to broken mounts? note: diesels are somewhat louder than normal gasoline engines Test drive =========== Lets say you decide to go for a test drive.. .. Step out of the vehicle, and ask the owner to get it out of his driveway/car sale etc. As he does this observe the vehicle, and see if it smokes or struggles during the procedure. Look at the place where the vehicle was parked. If there is visible engine oil/coolant, etc this could indicate problems in the vehicle. (water may be visible from the car's A/C, this is normal). Ask the owner to drive you: 1. Along a rough road (so you can test the suspension) 2. On a good road, ask the owner to drive up to at least 56km/h (or whatever local speed limit) so you can see how the vehicle performs at high speed. Turn OFF the radio and A/C and listen to the car for rattles/hums Tip: a hum from front/rear may indicate need to replace wheel bearings (or what our people refer to as razors) - Stop the car and ask the owner to back up a small hill, and observe the car exhaust for smoke, this is a good test of the clutch/etc. Actual test drive: - First make sure the vehicle has insurance and road licence which are valid. Ask to see them. Then test drive the vehicle very carefully. Make sure you have a good flat road and there is very little traffic. Remember its an unfamiliar vehicle and proceed with caution. First, test the clutch and brakes. The clutch should engage neatly before releasing the pedal fully. If it engages very late, it could mean a blown clutch plate. If there are clutch/brake problems, don't drive any further, and ask the owner to resume driving. And ask yourself whether you are sure you want to buy this car, from someone who couldnt even do basic maintenance. Reviewing the owner How the owner behaves during the test drive can give you a clue of how s/he uses the vehicle in real life. For example: - Does he roll down the window and drive (even though there is an A/C) - this may indicate that the A/C rarely worked. - Does he drive like a rally driver (in which case you can buy the car if you are willing to buy an extra engine, transmission and suspension) How has s/he spent on the car? If he has spent a lot on cosmetics while ignoring real existing mechanical problems, then you should probably consider another car. Is s/he straightforward and honest? Does what the owner says match up to what you see? For example, if the owner said the car had 2 owners in total and the log book copy shows 4 owners, then they could be lying about other things, and you should be cautious. Sometimes owners make mistakes, or simply don't know an answer, but overall if the owner appears to be honest and straightforward, that is a positive sign. [Ask Questions As you review the car, ask questions from the owner. If you see anything odd, ask about it. If the owner is honest and straightforward, its a positive sign. Try to gauge how much of what the owner is telling is the truth. A good way to do this is to pretend you don't know something and ask a question. After the test drive ============ After you return to the owners house/car sale, ask the owner to pop the hood and inspect the engine. - check temperature management. The gauge inside the car should be half or less. Aside from the gage, the engine should be reasonably managing temperature and the fans should be working properly. - Carefully tap the radiator cap with the tip of your finger. If it burns your finger off, the temperature management isnt good. Similarly the engine bay should not be boiling hot (unless it's a Nissan ) Physical inspection of vehicle ===================== 1. Visual inspection: simply look at the car - see if the lines are straight. Look at the paint. Uneven areas could indicate repainting. - look at the wheel arches. Look at the brakes. Look under the car (front/rear) If possible, take the car to a service station and inspect the underneath. If this is not possible, try to look under the car and see what is visible at least - (carry a flashlight with you when you go to see the car). - look for rust, damage, etc. - look at the engine compartment. Are there odd wires and do things look as if they have been messed with? Sometimes legitimate mods (e.g. alarm systems, aftermarket headlamps) require new wiring but if you see a mess inside, it probably means the wiring has been messed up by local mechanics in which case you should think carefully whether you really want this car. - (If the vehicle is cold) carefully open the radiator cap - check if it contains coolant, and if there is any signs of oil (could indicate a head leak) Look at the engine. If it has a slight layer of dust its OK. If it is shiny and has a layer of oil that means it has been washed at a service station. I prefer a car which has a normal slightly dusty engine vs one that has been washed and scrubbed to 'look' new. - look for leaks in radiator pipes. (with the engine off) remove the engine oil cover - if you can see nice clean silver metal with perhaps yellow brown color (engine oil) this is a positive sign. (note: diesels do tend to have dark/black engine interior, this refers to gasoline vehicles only). - Look at the fluid levels of the various fluids (power steering, brake fluid, auto transmission if auto) - if they are not up to level it could indicate leaks or careless owner. - if the vehicle is hot you may be able to open the radiator overflow tank (be careful) and check if he uses coolant. Not using coolant indicates: 1. Owner is an idiot 2. Radiator has leak and owner is topping it up with ordinary water. Either case, don't buy the car. 2. Tap test gently tap the body of the car, with a fingernail (dont rap it loudly) as you walk around. Check the hood, front left and right side and back carefully, also doors (as these are the main accident prone areas). Other general ideas: - Ask the owner what maintenance was performed. If he tells you a list of things replaced/repaired, this is usually a good sign and means the owner took some effort to look after car. - check the mileage? Mileage can be modified - but if it corresponds with the appearance of the vehicle then it could be accurate. - ask for receipts particularly for the timing belt/clutch etc HAS THE VEHICLE BEEN SERVICED/WASHED? If the owner was so cheap that he couldn't service the vehicle before he sold it, then do you really want to buy a car from him/her? *Exception*: Sometimes the owner may be actively using the car in which case it may be a bit dusty but all the same he/she should have washed/serviced/detailed the car within a few days of deciding to sell it. Now Consider the actual condition of the vehicle and make a list of all problems you encountered: Scenario 1: vehicle has major problems which can be fixed ===================================== for example: - Clutch plate gone. - brakes not too good. -minor suspension probs (e.g. weak shocks). - minor engine probs (e.g. poor tune up). Indicates that the seller was a cheap idiot (or typical local) Verdict: Buy with caution, knowing there could be other existing problems, and repair BEFORE YOU DRIVE said vehicle. Scenario 2: Vehicle has minor problems which can be fixed later ========================================= - A/C not running cold enough. - Minor dings, dents, scratches. - Minor cosmetic issues. Verdict: Buy the car, but set aside money to fix those problems later on. Scenario 3: Vehicle has major problems which can't be fixed easily =========================================== - Chassis problems (cracks/bent chassis) - major engine problems (e.g. grey/white/black smoke, burning oil, head gasket leaks) - major suspension/mechanical problems - gearbox problems which would necessitate replacing gear box... so on. Verdict: don't buy the car, unless you own a garage, have a million to spare, or are plain crazy. Other costs Aside from the above, there are a number of things you usually have to do, when purchasing ANY used car. These usually include: - Insurance & road licence. - 4 tires. - full service/oil change/air filter etc. - brake pads/etc - New battery (if existing battery not too good). - Timing belt (if close to 100k km's or multiples of that). Many people will say they replaced the belt, they could be lying. It's easier to spend 10k and replace it than to undergo a broken belt and engine rebuild. If they have replaced the belt, you can get a good garage to visually inspect it. signs of a good vehicle: - Vehicle is clean. (As in, the owner has washed, cleaned, and serviced it.) - is in good mechanical condition (good engine, transmission, suspension, brakes, body) - owner has focused on maintaining the mechanical condition of the vehicle - Vehicle has been maintained properly and scheduled maintenance has been done, e.g. brakes, clutch, timing, etc have been replaced at the proper intervals as necessary. - owner cares about vehicle, services regularly, engine oil is not dirty - owner is upfront and honest about any flaws. - owner uses a good garage for maintenance, and used original/quality components Suggestion 1: To all the experts here, can you please add your comments/suggestions tips on buying a used car. Suggestion 2: Would it be possible for Autolanka readers/Admins to set up a car pricing guide? This could be something updated regularly to show average true market values (like edmunds.com) and be useful to people looking to purchase a car. If any Autolanka readers have suggestions on what they check when buying a used car, please add them here. Update: Top gear have some excellent tips here:
  5. 16 points
    let me clarify a few things here: 1. the reason i kept quiet is simply because i didn't want to validate bullying. there is a nice way to ask something. and then you have MD and watchman. i simply chose not to reply since there's a nicer way to ask something than the way in these two, mostly MD went about things. and the initial apathy of the moderators towards this initial attitude was equally disheartening. i'm not blaming anyone here. just simply stating my reasons. 2. i am not a rich man. those who know me, know that well. i don't have my parents' money lying around at home to throw at cars. every cent i have spent is my hard earned own. the reason i stick with this garage is because they offer me the best rates, and an easy payment scheme, and that is why sometimes it takes time for them to do any work. i am not a priority, and that is something i have come to terms with. they too are not this major hifi garage and they make do with pocahontas wigwams when they must. 3. i never once said "this is the way things should be done" on this thread. or that "my tinker is the best tinker in the world" it has simply been a documentation of the work i am doing, because i love doing it. that's all it ever was. so accusations to that end, are quite frankly laughable. the lengths some people go to, i tell you... 4. the panel in question, that has led watchman and MD into a rabid frenzy, and even made JB go to the extent of saying i am doing an injustice to a classic, has been fully straightened, beaten, shape restored, and then primered over. there's no filler filling out cracks there. its just that i dont' have photos of the process because oft times i go there after work, and my battery is dying or near dead. and i couldn't take a photo. 5. this car was never exposed to the elements. it was done panel by panel, and then primered over and kept. the panels which had no rust or dents on them, like the roof for example, wasn't primered. but it was never exposed to elements, and left to rust, like some of MD's post claim. honestly it sounds to me like he's been to the garage to see my car more often than i have. 6. every panel was beaten, straightened, and shaped by hand. i removed close to 15kg of catalloy from this car. what you see is primer. there are supercut cans lying all around the garage. the one in question pointed out by MD is holding some throwaway parts from my teg inside, and was left on the bonnet by me. he may be a slow, useless fellow, my tinker, but he's the only one i've got, and i have no other option right now. so in summary, i would just like to say that the abuse that has been meted out to me on this thread may have gone unvalidated by me but wasn't unnoticed. on this day i have, simply put, had enough. so, be glad MD and watchman. because you win. i'm sure the following statement will make you wet yourself with joy: it was never my intention to mislead people, or to promote a bad resto (oh sorry i can't call it that apparently) a bad tinkering job a good one. it was, i reiterate, simply a documentation of my work, and was always open to honest crit, meted out in a helpful manner (a la forums like the 510 registry or ratsun.net, 510realm.com et al) rather than the abuse meted out here. i have never claimed that this is the right way to do it, or that i am the god of restoration. how can i when the self proclaimed resto-jesus is already here? this is my first classic for crying out loud! so yes, the tinker is bad, yes, he has done a horrible job, yes, i am wasting a car, yes i am wasting my money, yes yes yes. a thousand times yes. this is my last post on autolanka. mods, either let the Don, or whoever else has a 510 continue this thread, or shut this down, and remove my account. i'm out. thank you all for being so kind. i wish all of you every success with whatever your endeavours.
  6. 15 points
    Being an alto user here goes my two cents. Driving pleasure: Not Applicable. Agree with Bullock Cart comment. Safety: Better than a motor bike. Agree with papadam comment Fuel: 13 km/l in traffic and 18-20kml Out station Maintenance: No major repairs from 2004 up to now and for 90k+ milage. Even if there are issues any makabaas can fix it since its very basic. Parts are cheap. Security: High tech security systems not needed. No body is going to steal. At least my one was not stolen for last 10 years. Social Status: Pathetic. Even 3wheel buggers will shout at you. Sikkas at parking joints will show you that they are 'Security OFFICERS'. It is only a reliable means of moving from point A to point B without waiting for public transport. But Starlet is a CAR even it is hatchback. So obviously you have to spend more. So its your call to decide whether you want to spend something more to use a car or spend the bare minimum for a means of transport like me.
  7. 12 points
    The first thing that struck me when i sat down to drive this for the first time was the really low seating position - it did not take a lot of getting used to though. The height is of course adjustable and provides a much comfier driving position. The passengers seat on the other hand though cannot be height adjusted. The rear seats too don't have the fabled "magic seats" functionality where you can fold up the seats to increase space in the rear - but you can fold the seats down to create a humongous amount of boot space - I do not quite remember the exact capacity but it's quite a lot. Due to the shape of the roof , while the rear seats are quite comfortable and have a decent amount of space for your legs you might feel a bit of head room is missing. But it won't really translate into a problem - unless you are from Marhsall Eriksen's family . The SR grade (and the SE) for that matter comes with fabric seats - and the interior is black by default (for all grades) . So no "Baij Interiyal" advertisements on the classifieds for this model then. The materials for the seats are quite "scruffy" and the interior is a dust magnet. The material used on the seats particularly are prone to attract a lot of dust and small particles of whatnot. There are speakers on all four doors - something I noticed in other contemporary Hondas as well - the doors also have the same dust-attractive upholstery. I told you there's only a repair kit - but the good news is there is a bit of space in the rear that can double up as storage space or a spare wheel well - so if you're paranoid about having only a repair kit, you can easily carry around a spare The cockpit is contemporary Honda fare. The steering wheel itself is quite plush and has a nice feel to it - though the steering itself is light which I will talk about when i have an entry regarding handling. The usual controls are all there including the cruise control buttons and beneath the wheel you can find the paddle shifters (again paddle shifters + CVT is something i would talk about later) The control for the lane keep assistant is also in the steering wheel. Mind you the Wiper control stalk is on the right and the headlight control stalk is on the left - takes a bit of getting used to if you've previously driven JDM's only. The "Auto" mode in the Wiper means that it will enable the rain sensing wipers and depending on the amount of rain you get the speed will adjust as well. Nice touch but i personally feel it's a bit too dramatic. If i remember correctly the SE grade does not have rain sensing wipers. This being the SR grade you do not get a push start you need a key - the Push start button is there only on the EX trim. With the honda sensing package you get some features like proximity alerts, automatic breaking and lane departure warning. These can be turned on and off and the switches are located near the ignition on the right hand side along with the headlamp leveling switch. The shifter console includes the parking brake (yes there's no separate lever for that), the brake hold button (so your foot can be taken off the brake in for example color lights) there is also a button to toggle the eco-mode as well as to turn on and off auto-braking. Between these two buttons you would find the adaptive damper button on an EX-trim car. There cubby hole is quite small and disappointing given the fact that this is not an alto- and there are no individual cup holders etc - there is a circular holder that can easily accommodate a bottle in the storage area below the slide-able arm rest. This storage area also has a usb port that can be used with the infotainment system. However it has to be said both the usb outlets in front are not in the most accessible places. The other usb slot is practically invisible and hidden by the armrest console along with the HDMI port and Next to that is the 12V circular power outlet. Mind you there is another 12 V power outlet in the boot as well - handy when it comes to plug in your car vacuum. There is also dual zone climate control - other than the dedicated climate control panel fan speed etc can be set via the touch screen.
  8. 12 points
    Change your mechanic. Can I suggest a cheap fix? Fill the tank up, pour in a can of 3M injector Cleaner or Wurth (NOT SOLTRON), Take the car out on the highway and run at 100km/h for at least a 50Kms (Kottawa-Hikka and back). Run without AC. Floor it, accelerate, on and off, basically, accelerate the shit out if it and you might clear the gremlins off. It's called an Italian tune and it works for Jap cars too.. But don't kill yourself or get caught speeding.
  9. 12 points
    People will "lose" money if their car is stolen. As long as you have used your car that will not mean you have 'lost' money right? Even though in SL the perception was that a car is an investement it is no longer so. People have slowly started to realize a car is also something that you use like a a washing machine or a computer. In my humble opinion buying a hybrid will not FIX the so-called problem. Because even though hybrids are the trend these days I really don't think they will have a second hand market like the AE110's of yesterday. Since hybrids have a battery that wears out people are a bit hesitant to buy a used hybrid. also recently it has dawned on the local buyers that car's actually do wear out and due to this mentality shift second hand market will not be that big for hybrids, petrol cars, electric cars or anything. If it's an investment you are after I recomend you buy a plot of land (not anywhere where there are landslides) I remember way back people used to consider resale value even when buying a mobile phone. Thank god we are past that.
  10. 12 points
    Market value is low because the fuel consumption is low compared to other saloons. That's the main factor being considered by a typical Sri Lankan buyer. That is the same reason why the market value is low for cars like Peugeot 406. But both of these cars (and many of other other low priced cars) are great workhorses. If carefully taken care of the vehicle (that is by doing the regular servicing and running repairs) these cars will never let you down. The biggest myth in this country is "If the engine capacity is more than 1500cc it will cost a fortune to maintain the vehicle". Well, it is not true. Going bit off topic here.... Since I assume that you are hunting for your first vehicle, this is an advice that you might won't get from elsewhere. Buying a car is pretty much like marrying a woman. You have two options. Love marriage - Get to know the girl you like, share your thoughts, fall in love and decide to marry her. This is similar to inspect the car, do a test drive, feel that this will be the car of your dreams and buy. Arrange marriage - Ask others opinion on how well this car will serve you, decide to buy the car since there are not much negative comments and you feel not bad about it looks and thinking that you will fall in love with it after the marriage. If you go in this Arrange marriage path you will most likely end up in buying an N16, corolla 121 or FB15. My advice is, do not take anyone's judgement on it. Just go see it your self, drive some cars and you will feel what you will be happy to live with. There are some of my friends who have bought brand new maruties and indian altos when their heart told them to buy a Lancer CK1 / CK2 or a Civic EK3. They bought them because other people advised them that they are newer cars and do more kmpl on fuel. But after few months of the purchase they are criticizing on how awful the ride is. Plus the kmpl is not that great too. Also there are some people who follow their hearts, do the research and buy the car they fell in love with and enjoying the ride. Fuel consumption is not the only factor which defines the quality of the car. It is like deciding to marry a woman who spends on least amount of money on her clothes / jewellery, ...etc. Choise is yours mate. Follow your heart and decide with judgement.
  11. 11 points
    As many have pointed out, when owning a car you have to cope with additional costs as well. Let’s say you buy a used Japanese car which is within your budget. From my experience, I know that It would set you back around 2,000-3,000 rupees per month on average for maintaining an old car. This is the average spending per month for all the costs that occur throughout the years such as insurance, servicing, repairs etc. For ease, let’s make it Rs 2,500 per month. You say you have to travel around 500Km’s per month. Let’s assume your car does 10Kmpl and it runs on petrol. So that means you have to fill in about 50 liters of petrol per month which adds up to around Rs 5500. And on top of that you are on a full lease of around 25,000 rupees. When you add all of these up, you’ll be spending around Rs 33,000 (25,000+5500+2500) per month on the car and you’ll be left out with around Rs 37,000 to manage all the other expenses. So, do you think you can manage with that? You say you don’t have any savings as well isn’t it? So, I feel it’s a bit risky. If you buy a brand new Indian car for that budget, you’ll be able minimize the maintenance cost. But think about the depreciation. Brand new Indian cars depreciate over time very quickly compared to used Japs. Used japs within your price bracket do not lose their value that much. Most probably you’ll be able to sell it at the price you bought even after 4-5 years of ownership. So, even though you’ll be spending less on maintenance, you’ll be losing money due to depreciation when buying a new car. Let’s say over a 5 year period your brand new car loses Rs 200,000 in its value. That means you’ll be spending around 3,300 per month indirectly. So, ultimately there’s not much of a difference. In fact you’ll be losing more money if you go for a new car. Think about the other impacts of getting into debt as well. When you find it difficult to manage your other expenditures, your family life will also get affected. You’ll be even blaming your wife and pushing her for a job. A wife at home is actually a blessing. You’ll be free of most of the house hold duties since she’ll be managing all that. Trust me I know how easy it is from experience. If I were you, I would wait for another year or so without committing myself into debt on a car. I would save or invest the 25,000 and spend the other 8,000 or so on family. How about enjoying life with your newly married wife? Go on a trip or two. Buy her some nice gifts. Maybe some gold jewelry which would come handy in an emergency. Doing those things would be difficult when a kid or two comes aboard so enjoy life while you can. If you feel that saving money does not yield much of a return these days, get a loan and invest it on a land. I did that last year when the loan rates were reduced. When most of my friends were getting loans to purchase the latest hybrid, I kept my old Jap and purchased a land for a per purch value of Rs 350,000. After less than a year, the land value has risen up to Rs 450,000 per purch. Just think about the gain. Think wisely and act wisely. Don’t get in to debt without having at least Rs 100,000-200,000 as a reserve for an emergency. I wish all the best for you.
  12. 11 points
    I don't know why Vezel is bad, but I know this.. For our people ultimate vehicle to show off their wealth/status/ego or what ever the f**k they have in their minds over others is to buy them self a jeep. Jeep in the sense is not the one made by GM but all others that has its shape and categorized as SUVs falls in to this lot. namely Prado, Montero & etc... While all mudalalies,kuddas & other people who earns millions per month could afford those so called jeeps and their 3 kmpl figures our PROFESSIONALS never had a proper vehicle which falls in to the above jeep category that does 20kmpl and could buy @ 4million until now.. So as soon as weysal hit the market they didn't think twice to pawn their nut sack, borrow up to the last cent they could borrow and withdraw all the money saved for their childs education to buy this status symbol of a JEEP! Sadly, how life f**ks you is a marvel, now every Tom dick and Harry drives a weysal.... How you could be so special when they out number 3wheels during rush hour. So now they wonder, what the f**kery f**k did I do... Is weysal bad? How could every f****r on the road could buy a one.. Where the f**k is 20kmpl? Should I drive in "N" gear to achieve it.. Their mindset is so low now they are wishing high taxes on hybrids makes weysal less affordable and due to this no one else will buy these Jeeps anymore thus making them special... So is Vezel so bad????
  13. 11 points
    I am glad Mazda is last , hope it would be like that for coming years. So we can afford stylish , fun to drive cars rather than overpriced ones that every Tom, Dick and Harry buys.
  14. 11 points
    known person to my brother bought one. Guess what, next month the electricity bill jumped over 30k it's more or less the same amount of money i spend on my vehicles pumping diesel. what we have to realize is Sri Lanka is a country which generates electricity by burning fossil fuel. So running an electric car (unless you have your own solar charging facility) wouldn't help neither environment nor economy.
  15. 10 points
    i will summarise what the Teg has been through from 2014 to 2018, in the next few blog posts. ENGINE The car went through 3 additional rebuilds since the first before things start working aright. indika was not the man to have done this with, as he had no experience with B series hondas, and my vision was lost on him. i was severely restricted by the budget of my dreams so i couldn't afford any better. having said that, i have spent 3 times more doing cheap repairs 4 times over than i have spent doing it right, once, with sabry at PAS. the reason my Brian Crower cams were not producing power was that i had not raised the compression adequately in my cylinders. as i was unaware of this, i was running stock compression, which was 10.8:1, which is the lowest compression honda designed for the B series: the GS-R auto. the BC website quite bluntly states that one has to have at least a CR of 12:1 for their cams to work. in this light i was experiencing something like "anti-VTEC" where the normal lobes created oodles of power and when the wild lobes are engaged the car bogs down due to compression and fuelling inadequacies. on this discovery, and being at a bad place personally at the time, i gave up on the BC cams, thinking i have reached the end of my limits with the Teg and i will not be able to complete this. for the first time in my life, i compensated. i backed out. i sold the cams to Rumesh Rajakulendran, who was building his BabyMilo EK9 racecar, and reverted to my auto GSR cams. it was a very low point to have seen those cams go. worse yet, Ruma was thrashing every event he entered and winning by a country mile. he never forgot to acknowledge me and the cams. to add to this, a few months beyond this incident, sabry and i were trying to tune it, and the engine broke. the bearings had given way. and so began... 1. the second rebuild i have her this time to a local garage, Shafiq's, in attidiya. he had a lot of experience i was told with B series hondas, and he seemed to know what he was doing. shafiq then pulled everything apart to find out that one of my chambers is not in line with the others. this required an overbore to remove the discrepancy, and bigger pistons. at this juncture Ashan Silva was kind enough to gift me a set of P72 +25bore Civic Type R pistons, which i used in the rebuild. the bearing failure had also cut the crank, so i had to machine the crank as well. sadly this rebuild lasted the 2000km break in time, and the bearings gave way again while i was on the highway to galle, and it was back to shafiq's for... 2. the third rebuild. the bore was ok now, but the crank had got cut again, and i was given the choice of machining it yet again, and then limping around, as it would not last many trips to 9000+ rpm, or buy a new crank. a crank from honda was around 80,000, while an entire B20B non VTEC CRV engine in toto was 55,000. the choice was obvious. so we harvested the crank from that engine and did the third rebuild. at this point i did some research and came to the conclusion that it was not a good idea to mix and match parts, such as take a b20 crank, pair it with b18 pistons and con rods, and then use a b18 head, as the measurements are all different. the garage thought naught of this and then went ahead. and again, i did the 2000km break in, and was on the dyno tuning it with sabry. the second power run produced 189whp and 280Nm of torque. and then the bearings broke. the engine seized. and this it was time again for *-drum roll please-* 3. THE FOURTH REBUILD!! i was out of money, out of patience, at my wits end. my dream had fallen apart. i cannot adequately communicate to you the dejection i felt when this broke for the third time. my heart just froze over and i was beyond emotion. this was it. Project R had come to its end. with a son on the way and a house planned to be built, i was drained. this was my strength, my love and my life and it has just broken down for what i thought was the last time. i needed space. time. to think this through. one thing was for sure, i was done giving the car to half baked garages. this needed a pro. i wanted this fixed. so i sent her to Platinum as i wanted Sabry to repair it. someday. he removed the engine and i brought the body home. where it went up on jack stands and stayed that way until i could either afford a rebuild, or i made up my mind to sell her for parts and keep the Book. she stayed this way for 8 months. during which time i removed the tyres, and stored them in my room, and every sunday i would head out, and wash her, clean the interior and apply siddhalepa on the rexin surfaces to keep away fungus. this was my ritual once a week for 8 months. until such time i could find the means to afford a rebuild, and sabry could bring the parts down. the day finally did arrive, and boy did sabry pull out a corker. he had plans. big plans. he wanted to do right by me what numerous other people couldn't, and he made this his pet project. we decided to use the block from the b20 engine i had, as my b18 block was fried. and anyhow a b20 would have better lower end torque and thus be an easier daily driver. also my head was perfect. there was no signs of valve or spring wear and it was functioning normally. i had during this time installed a set of ITR camshafts also, and we thought we'd leave that just as it is. so the B20 block was harvested and bored to 2100cc. everything else was brand new. we ordered... 1. An Eagle crankshafft. aluminium. rated for 1500whp, 2. Wiseco pistons and connecting rods. custom made for my b20 block/b18autoGSR head, to produce a CR of 13.0:1. 3. a block guard was installed as the chambers of the b20 are larger, and thus weaker than the b18. the b20 had a redline of 7200rpm. we were pushing the 10,000 limiter again. so a block guard is necessary to prevent the chambers from warping. 4. ACL bearings 5. 510cc EVO 4 injectors, with impedance reset to match the requirement 6. AEM 320LPH high flow fuel pump, with a fuel pressure regulator. sabry took about three weeks for the work, and she was out again in all her glory. she was built with massive tolerances, where, would i ever need to scratch that itch, a set of aftermarket cams or even boost upto 0.8 bar would be easily handled. she was built to last. i do have to appreciate the effort Sabry put into this, as at one point he had made a mistake on the height of the connecting rods, and he sent them back to wiseco to get down the right ones wiseco refused to refund as the mistake was not theirs. sabry bought a new set for the right measurement out of his own pocket. i've switched over to LiquiMOLY MOS2 10w-40 oil, and it has been smooth sailing so far. it is only now, that Project R has truly come alive.
  16. 10 points
    The most serious problem this country has is not all that. We have a power crisis. This country barely meets its power requirements and for about 6 months every year, the government needs to buy electricity from privately run mini diesel power stations to keep our lights switched on in the night. We don't have money to build new large power plants. The last time we tried to build one, we failed miserably, Now imagine the situation when we have 100,000 Nissan Leafs (or similar) in the country. A Nissan leaf with a 3300W charger takes all night (8 hours) to do a full charge (off Wikipedia). So lets assume a car is charged once in 4 days. 100,000 leafs x 1/4 x 3300 = 82.5MW. That's almost the capacity of Laxapana power plant - one of the biggest in the country! When these leeches with their electric cars aggravate our power crisis and if power cuts come in, who is going to pay for it? The poor kids who use one light bulb to study for their O/Ls and A/Ls. Its a pity that the power and energy minister, who is an electrical engineer, hasnt even thought about this. This country is not ready for electric cars. Not yet. And don't get me started about solar net metering. Even if you cover a 10-perch land with Solar panels, you won't be able to generate enough power to charge a Leaf.
  17. 10 points
    What's up with BMW owners these days?Just in the last month one douchebag in a 5 series banged in to my rear and tried to put the blame on me. Most of them drive like morons and park like assholes.Honestly I'd rather be a lane hogging Prius driver than be a self-entitled dickbag BMW driver with their oversized-sunglass-wearing loud mouth wifes and their spoiled kids.
  18. 10 points
    There is a hot chick who works in our building who drives a Vezel. Sometimes she parks next to mine. One day out of curiosity I checked out the inside of the car through the glass... a very prominent red/brown streak was on the driver seat. Either she shat herself in glee over the fact that she owns and drives a Vezel or she was riding her menstrual cycle at the same time with little or no coverage... Lets just say it was a bloody skid mark... LOL Either way she must have seen me looking inside and making a face coz she never looks at me now even in the lift.....
  19. 10 points
    This thread deserves an award for the sensibility of the question, the level of maturity people have shown in responding, and the active counter responses from the OP himself. I'm bookmarking this thread to share the next time someone asks "I can get a loan of $$$$$. should I buy A, B or C. It also goes to show that newbie-rape is not the norm here and the raping based on the newbie's individual attributes/stupidity.
  20. 10 points
    So I encountered a sad thing last night. Was out at Russel Peters show and since parking was an issue took a cab to and from the venue. The return trip when i Called for a cab, a white Vezel pulls in front of me and asks if I asked for a cab. I thought it was a joke and then realized it was bloody serious. Seems like the guy bought the Vezel recently and his salary does not cover the 'pinance', so after work in the evening he runs the Vezel to make some extra bucks. The hire was 540... I gave the bugger 600... sad. So yes, someone's worst fears have come true that they are indeed running Vezels as taxis.
  21. 10 points
    The MAIN problem with the Vezel is the entity that places it self between the driver's seat and the steering wheel. These entities have a tendency to: 1. Think they are super duper on the road and that they are driving a sports car or a go anywhere off roader 2. Hog lanes driving real slow save the planet of naughty naughty exaust gases 3. Sit around talk about how amazing their weasels are 4. Open threads on auto forums to justify their purchase and seek validation of/for their purchase. Apart from that it is a well put together little 1500cc car that would do everything any other 1500cc car would do (though with a heavier body it feels under powered even against its brother the Fit and suffocates when under load as any 1500cc car would). Also it gives u an AWD system that will help u with snow and rain but nothing much else. Now about your acceleration claim and your belief that acceleration = power. I get smoked by little 660cc engined kei cars off the mark at traffic lights and I am driving a 1600cc 160+hp car. Sure they smoke me only for a few seconds....but they do. Also look in to how electric motors vs. Gasoline motors work. That might make you realise why and when your Hybrid motor would pull u off the mark faster than an ICE car.
  22. 10 points
    Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your purchase! From your story, it looks like it was a "love at first sight" buy (which is not a bad thing). It's normal to have to deal with problems that you have mentioned with a car that is over 15 years of age now. With a bit of love and care, you'll be able to get her to run to any corner of the country without any issue. Here goes my 2 cents on the questions you have raised. 1. Your drive belts might be worn out or loose. As the engine heats up, the drive belts expand a little bit and slip. As a result, your power steering pump doesn't pump enough oil through the system to provide as much assistance as required. So get your belts checked and replaced for a start. 2. AC does not condensate on floor mats if the system is working normally. The first thing that comes to mind is a blockage in your AC drain pipe which fills up the tray underneath the cooler in your car. The tray gets filled up with water and the excess water overflows onto your carpet instead of going down the drain pipe. Get the drain pipe checked out first. 3. if your radiator is working as normal and if there are no leaks, then I don't see a reason for you to replace it. Since water is currently being used, drain the water out and use a good coolant. You should be settled for a good while. 4. Since the car's radiator has been replaced, there's a little chance for whoever did the job to close out the heater lines which go into the car. The heater lines carry water from the radiator into the car to radiate heat through the AC. If the heater lines are closed out (deliberately by a mechanic), then your heater would not work. Check this first. If they are, then you'll have to reconnect the pipes and it'll start working normally if everything else is not faulty. 5. To repair rust on the windscreen frame, the windscreen will have to be removed. This could be just surface rust which can be removed and painted over after treating the metal (with no metal fabrication needed). Since there seems to be a leak at the top of the windscreen, my guess is that the bonding has not been done properly by whoever fixed the replacement windscreen. A good body repair shop will be able to assist you with both the rust and windscreen re-installation. They'll remove the rust, re-paint the area and mount the windscreen so that there are no further leaks. 6. Since you do not know about the condition of the transmission oil, get an ATF oil change done. This is the starting point for most automatic gearbox issues. This applies to you mostly because it looks like an ATF oil has not been done for quite a long time. One other point I would like to add is to get your timing belt changed. Don't take any risks on this one. A good EFI tuneup (throttle body clean, injector cleanup, spark plug replacement) and you're all good to go for a long time. Good luck and hope this helps. PS: Thank you for asking all your questions in one thread instead of opening 6 different threads for each question.
  23. 9 points
  24. 9 points
    We'll Finally After Months, Ombudsman stepped in, found out they were just bluffing without any provable evidence, and they have broke ut most good faith by hiding evidence in favor of my, so now time to hit hard on them
  25. 9 points
    Looks like we go a rail enthusiast in here. There are dedicated sites on locomotives on Sri Lankan tracks. Such as this one. Class M1 was made by Brush Locomotives, UK which is now defunct. There was one surviving engine in Sri Lanka, which was planned to be restored by a group of enthusiasts about 10 years ago but I don't know what happened to that project. Class M2 (General Motors Canada) was imported to Sri Lanka in 1955 or so. 60 years later, those engines are still running, except for the one blown up by the LTTE ("Sasketchewan"). The running ones include the engine that was washed off in the 2004 Tsunami ("Manitoba"). If you see a train engine with a wave painted on it, that's Manitoba. Not even a tsunami can destroy these engines. Class M3 was a failed local project. Nuff said Class M4 (Bombardier, USA) is too long for most of Sri Lankan tracks. They run mostly down south and to Puttalam Class M5 is quite common on the upcountry track because of its shorter wheelbase. Class M6 has two types. Ones with and without electric traction. Most of those are now re-engined with Mercedes-Benz (Adtranz) engines. Class M7 was imported when Queen Elizabeth visited Sri Lanka in early 80s. Hideously noisy, underpowered and smoky engines. Class M8 and M10 were imported from India. Class M9 (Alstom) was the worst blunder ever made by the railway authorities in Sri Lanka. There's a lot of criticism about these but the biggest problem was they were too advanced for our railway people. If you compare an M9 with an M2, its like comparing a Morris Minor with a modern Mercedes. And our railway staff simply didnt want to upgrade their skills. For example, when the M9 senses a derailment, it automatically brakes and stops the engine, saving thousands of lives. Our retards didnt appreciate its features and said its having 'electronic problems'.
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