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Bullsh*t. Sad to see that you haven't changed that shortsighted mentality of yours even after all these years. Once a blinkered idiot, always a blinkered idiot I guess. To The OP, Most modern diesel engines are completely differrent beasts than old lumps like the Toyota C, L engines and the Nissan QD's etc. Stuff like common rail injection, Variable geometry turbos and so on all lead to an engine that has much higher stresses put upon it than the diesels of old. That is partly why modern diesels are very powerful and even more economical than ever before. All in all, this means that durability is reduced somewhat compared to the older lumps that could take 200-250,000 Km between rebuilds. This is not a problem common to the koreans either, even modern Toyota common Rails like the D4D's found in the Prados, hiluxes and so on can do maybe 150,000 Km before they too need to be redone. So contrary to what the so called "engineer" who replied first tells you, this is a problem common to most modern diesel engines, simply because of the stresses put on them. Another factor (In SL at least) is the quality of our Diesel. Most modern engines need clean diesel with a very low Sulfur content. Even our Super diesel is not quite good enough compared to what you get in other countries but it is certainly WAY better than the normal diesel. This is why all agents who sell modern diesels generally say very clearly to only use super diesel. Unfortunately, because the Korean SUV's are pretty reasonably priced, most of the time our donkeys (like the "engineer" up there) decide that they know better than the agent and the manufacturer, and pump normal diesel. Which of course leads to the engine getting buggered early on.

Demio, but if your going for a Vitz.. go for a Vitz RS.. the normal Vitz is just too Booring and its "just another car" the demio on the other hand just brings a smile to your face, every time you see that..

... and another advice I can give in general, is to ignore everything this idiot Nilantha says

Kelisa, a faliure? Bullsh*t, we owned one for about 5yrs, never ever had a single problem. The kelisa is based on the Mira, so yeah the Mira's parts could be shared with the kelisa but not all

I came across these download links in another forum. The 2003 one is valid for 2002-2003 Lancers and the 2006 one is valid for 2004-2006 Lancers. 2003 Lancer Factory Service Manual (6 files) 2003 LANCER OZ FSM.part1.exe 2003 LANCER OZ FSM.part2.rar 2003 LANCER OZ FSM.part3.rar 2003 LANCER OZ FSM.part4.rar 2003 LANCER OZ FSM.part5.rar 2003 LANCER OZ FSM.part6.rar 2006 Lancer Factory Service Manual (10 files) 2006 Lancer FSM.part01.exe 2006 Lancer FSM.part02.rar 2006 Lancer FSM.part03.rar 2006 Lancer FSM.part04.rar 2006 Lancer FSM.part05.rar 2006 Lancer FSM.part06.rar 2006 Lancer FSM.part07.rar 2006 Lancer FSM.part08.rar 2006 Lancer FSM.part09.rar 2006 Lancer FSM.part10.rar Cheers. ELNINO.

I am planning to buy a car. Money in hand 16-16.5 lakhs max.must be good fuel consumption and English number.What will be the best carf or me?i like following cars Toyota AE110 NISSAN FB15 MZDA Familia HONDA CITY please advice me. Thanks.

I was about to buy thal lexus lx around 4 years back in Dubai but then decided to go for a Merc s class since i already had a 4wd[prado]. But overall i had a look at the lexus and it was just awesome compared to a Sequoia

To compensate?

go for the Mazda.. the honda city is actually indian or Thai.. so ur better off with te mazda.. and just saying, if you try, you could find a Honda Civic EK3 for your budget (not english number though)

Also, shouldn't you turn up the heat and blower?

Probably because it is.

Generally the fuel economy would be something as follows. Mazda 323/Familia (Automatic Transmission) = 8-9 Kmpl (Traffic) , 11-12 Kmpl (Long distance) Mazda 323/Familia (Manual Transmission) = 9-11 Kmpl (Traffic) , 12-14 Kmpl (Long distance) Honda City (Automatic Transmission)= 9-10 Kmpl (Traffic), 12-14 Kmpl (Long distance) Honda City (Manual Transmission)= 11-12 Kmpl (Traffic), 14-15 Kmpl (Long distance) But please note that these figures are just general figures which may change according to the driving habits of the driver and the condition of the vehicle. Therefore some might agree with these figures and some may not. We are talking about cars which are more than a decade old and have over 100000Km's on there odo's. So, these figures will vary on the condition of the car. if i were you, i will not worry that much on these fuel figures. Instead i'll search for a well maintained car which is in good condition. For your budget, you can get an english numbered 7th generation mazda BHALP or if you are really lucky even a 8th generation BJ3P or even a BJ5P. But, you might have to slightly extend your budget to get one which is in topping condition.

for 1.6m you can't go for a english number AE110. so better Honda City

Create another account. Unless you're scared of Wimal

So, does this mean someone could hack into the system(s) and wreak havoc?

Have either of you owned Korean vehicles? Stop talking out of your asses without backing up your claims. This kind of insular mindset is prevalent among the majority of car owners in this country because pissants like yourselves do nothing except expedite the perpetuation of retarded notions like those quoted above.

Gosh, I'm sure going to miss the information about the 2009 MRA Kukuleganga Rally.......has become a firm favourite of mine over the years. But, really, looking forward to the new AL face.

Yes yes! Cos when you buy a 2000kg luxury SUV that 1.5 seconds is a deal breaker...

they say when an engine is boiling you shouldn't stop the engine all of a sudden and more importantly should not add water to the radiator (that is, if you managed to open the cap without getting burned) when the engine is not running. If possible, the best thing to do is let excessive pressure on the system to go ( compromise safety and open the cap is what I've always did) and then add water as engine keeps running. If you opt to stop the engine, then wait whatever the time it takes the system to cool down, before you add more water. If you add water to the boiling engine with no water rotation, chances are high that you'll crack the aluminium heads you find in most of modern engines.

You said this happened suddenly. If it was me, I would've first checked the engine wiring loom for any possible short circuits, especially the feed wire to the alternator and all grounding points, again within the engine wiring loom. Diode plate can be busted like this all of a sudden for two reasons, one is poor connectivity/current flow to battery and the other is short circuit. Make sure you have sorted out grounding, connectivity and short circuit issues (if any) before installing the new altnernator. As Ripper said, 5000 is a good price for a used (non repaired locally) alternator.

It's time to get a new friend. Dude, do u think Toyota introduced Allion because Carina was a failure model? All cars go through their product life cycles and eventually other products take over. This is what happened with Kelisa and Viva. FYI, both are based on Daihatsu Mira. Kelisa is based on L700 series Mira and Viva is based on L275 series. Some of the spares are interchangeable between Kelisa/Viva and their corresponding Mira counterparts, but not all of them are.

Well when the temperature goes beyond a certain point, you lose the controlled detonation that you normally have in an engine and you get pre ignition knocks etc and its very noticeable. But there might have been other issues as well. But as a matter of course I always stare at my temperature gauge if I notice the engine is running rough out of habit now!

although mine is mechanical injection and runs fine on normal diesel, used to pump super whenever it was available until the recent price hike! Now pumping super diesel is like pumping petrol

cut the crap.

Are you NUTS?? It's NEVER enough. Always, ALWAYS add Gin:

As Crosswind has mentioned, according to current market prices, the 110 and FB15 is beyond your budget. Between the City and Familia, i would suggest the Familia since it's build quality is better. But the City might do slightly well on fuel though..

Dude a lot of good members here are wierdos.

Machang.... basically every tyre agent has a retail price list. This price list is common to all tyre shops selling their tyres. The way this price list is structured is in a way to give the retail shop a margin of approximately 35% ( Price diff between retail price Vs wholesale price) . But each tyre shop will decide how much they want to keep as margin, so if you go to any tyre shop the buggers will pull out the price list and calculate something on a calculator and give you a price. The same thing when you go to buy Dulux paint from a hardware shop. What I mentioned above was actually on the Goodyear Eagle F1. But check out the Maxxis site, I think they stock this size. I would actually rank Maxxis in par with the big brands and much better than the GT.. http://www.maxxistires.lk/

Carbon B4, I find it surprising that this guy did not realise something was up before the engine went bust. Sadly there is no 100% failsafe in the engine which will shut it down if it overheats too much. But the engine will start to knock and miss quite badly approaching that point and you will start to notice a massive difference. This has saved me twice from calamity when a dirty radiator used to cause cooling issues in my car (which is now thankfully fixed). So he should have have noticed the rough running and knocking of the engine and just stopped!

Dude first of all check if your engine is a 1NR-FE. only that came with 11.5 compression and it was put in JDM vitz's only after 12/2010. here's why high octane fuel is good. you can compress it better without pre-igniton i.e. knocking. And the rule of thumb when it comes to choosing octane levels is 10*compression ratio is the limit on the amount of octane your car can appreciate. so if you got an n/a engine with 9.0:1 compression 90 octane is the best that it can appreciate. This is the principle most tuners stick to when increasing compression or boost. Anyway production engines can operate within a certain threshold of octane levels depending on its engine management. for example all corollas and other cars with the 1NZ engine run fine on 90 octane fuel even though it has a compression ratio of 10.5:1. It gives better performance when you pump 95 but doesn't complain running on 90. It only becomes a waste when you exceed the octane level the engine can appreciate. hint: indian car owners who pump 95 Then we gotta keep in mind what the manufacturer recommends with respect to what sort of fuel they have in the country its manufactured for. See in japan regular is 95 and premium is 98. So in theory you should stick to 95 here even if the catalogue says regular. But most cars run fine with the exception of GDI's. but I think that's mostly gotta do with 90 being not as refined as 95 here. So to sum up. as with most cars the manufacturer recommends regular for your car. but considering the high compression ratio I wouldn't recommend you switching to 90 octane. Anyway this is the most economical engine toyota makes at the moment. so what's wrong with spending a little extra?

The amount of energy ( calorific value) in one ltr of 95 is more than 90, so theoretically what you say is correct but the engine is built to withstand much more than this difference, so nothing will happen to the engine internals by using 95. But lower octaine fuel could result in engine knocking which is worse. I know, but a fuel which burns cleaner means its more refined right ? if I am not mistaken the 95 is extracted from a greater level of refining and not only by mixing additives to the 90 ( hence the additional cost ) . So which means it should have less impurities than 95. Less impurities in the fuel means there will be less residue in the fuel system. Kind of like a triple distilled Vodka will be more smoother than normal one...

and possibly an android app too

1999 civic ek3 Mazda 323 http://autolanka.com/ad.asp?ID=76787 These are a lot better than the ones you are looking at. Do a search on the autolanka site. There are many to be found in your budget. BTW it's not the year of the car that matters. It's the build quality. An older honda or mazda would last a lot longer than a maruti.

Fair go, Peri, get out on the road in the Zephyr on a nice day, slip the Burl Ives cassette into the machine, light up a fag, stick an elbow outta the window.......almost better than sex, that is :-)

U won' find an Fb15 or 110 english numbered car in that range. So u r pretty much stuck with familia or city, unless u want tO look at other options. Familia is the better of the two.

Mazda familia Bhalp. manual.personal experience.realy good on fuel.no experience on other cars mentioned so not gonna comment on them.

Mazda familia BJ5P.

Forget cars i know a someone who scratches our wall everyday when he reverses his motor bike

Irrespective of who the lessor is, what u need to do is ask the following questions, not just the interest rate. 1. If i am to go for an early settlement, what additional charges do i have to pay? 2. If the central bank interest rate changes, what will happen? 3. If my repayment gets late by 1 day, what will be the interest? 4. What r the criteria for delinquency as per bank definitions? 5. Can i get insurance from the company i want?(be strict on this ) I also suggest getting everything they promise, in writing. I had a terrible experience with HSBC. Almost took them to courts and that had them begging at my feet.

Only kitchen ?? forgot the bed ?? MINIACE

Hi, I’m willing to buy Perodua VIVA , Please advice for good and Bad side of this vehicle Thanks n advance

What a stupid thing to say. I mean women have vaginas, right (perhaps you haven't been able to confirm that first hand yet, but trust me they do)? Yet they go to male gynaecologists who don't have a single vagina between them to advise them on how to deal with problems with theirs. AL forum members may not have vaginas, I mean Land cruisers, but many of them know what they are talking about. About cars i mean, not vaginas.

Jaliya you are getting a lot of investment advice from an automotive forum. A person with a Rs 400,000 budget would wonder why the hell a person with a 4M budget would want to analyse various options before investing in a vehicle. They would also comment that if you have such a budget, why would you want to spend all that on a vehicle rather than investing some part in gold etc. But the fact is that whether your budget is 400K or 4M or 40M, a rational person would analyse the options before buying a vehicle. You are at one league and the bunch of advisors are somewhere else. That is why there is such a big disconnect. I do not think a single person owning a LC200 or a Disco4 has replied in this thread. You have made your investments right in the past and I am sure that is why you are in a position to buy a LC200 or a Disco4 today so it makes me laugh to see the comments of our investment advisors advising you on this forum. I think you will have to get in touch with the right people who actually own the models you are looking at. Like someone has pointed out at the beginning itself, this forum is more for the ordinary and wanna be's. Although it is tempting, do not bother to reply to some of the silly comments and opinions you see here. Just not worth it. You have already made a mistake by throwing this topic in this forum. If you are in the Corolla 110, Honda EK3, FB15 league, well this will be the right forum but not for anything above. All the best with your search