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  1. 22 points
    Hi Everyone Recently I went though some interesting details while doing an ECO test. The test passed but I thought everyone should know the details. This applies to both diesel and petrol vehicles. 1. My vehicle has very low emission standards after an overhaul 20,000KMs ago, 1kz-te turbo diesel engine maintained by Toyota and the test was done soon after a service. 2. The test failed when the officer stepped on the engine and reved it over 5000RPM. Simply the guy stepped on the accelerator in 1 second (I timed it). The engine smoked all 3 times because it failed to calibrate intake and output ratios of diesel with the turbo lagging after 1 second rampage to the floor. it was always an under burn because the engine was trying to respond to an overfed intake, By the time the equilibrium was found the test was on the last last few seconds. Therefore the average test reading failed. 3;. Having some knowledge on the subject matter, I started arguing on the test result and the way it was performed. I claimed that the person incharge was not trained on fundamentals. Despite my option to take the test within another 60 days after so many repairs listed to overcome the problem, I opted to do the test again in 30 minutes after the next person in line. The test passed, the engine had fraction of emissions, almost equal to a common rail direct injection engine. 4. I did not go on the easy way of throwing money at the problem of influencing the officers. What happened here? Let me explain. 1. An engine cannot respond to an immediate floor level acceleration in 1 second. The test says - take it over 3500-4000RPM in 3 seconds. What happens is, there is a notice on the computer instructing "ACCELERATE" and the guy ramps to the floor. Engine reaches the red zone of the RPM counter. My 2nd test was done between 3500-4500RPM with proper acceleration. 2. The engine that runs on 5000-7000RPM blows all the smoke dust that is accumulated inside the silencer over 1 year. We NEVER rev engines over 4000RPM on normal running. Not even on an up climb. It is only on an occasional quick deathly overtake and even that I doubt over 5000RPM. The testing should NEVER force an engine to this range. Any engine manufacturer has a warning on red zone RPMS that will definitely damage the engine. The simple colour indicating the RED zone of RPM is to avoid going there. 3. They do the test in this crazy way to reject the engines because there is pressure from the authority (RMV) to stop the smoking. RMV has started penalizing the test officers for passing tests of those engines that are later smoking on the road. This is now going in the typical Sri Lankan viscous cycle of hitting the consumers. Consumers spend over Rs5000-10,000/= to temporarily clean up injectors and replace air cleaners. Some even wash the silencer inside. However the motive behind 1 second floor acceleration is to play safe and fail the engines to avoid penalties by officers conducting the tests. Even if RMV catches on the road the records will indicate that it was failed once. One other reason to rev up is, the actual RPM and the echo based RPM reading on the computer is showing a difference to the lower side. Therefore they floor it to compensate the gap.Instead of doing all this unprofessional over protective conduct of tests, what they really should have is a good software that takes the tester through a good acceleration cycle with a graphical illustration. If the government is so keen on this and care about the environment they should CERTIFY this software and regulate proper usage. if we do not get this properly established like in other countries, lot of innocent people who are not conversant on the detail are going to spend a lot of money when they are already finding it difficult to make ends mean. My polite request - Share is with many people as possible. My intention of writing this is for someone to get this forwarded with proper influence to the Minister of Transport and Commissioner of RMV. For those who go and get into this sad pit, know your rights, show the vehicle manufacturers manual, argue, demand your rights as consumers but be genuine with emissions. We have to protect the world for our younger generation. If your engine is bad get it fixed. Regards Nana
  2. 20 points
    The idea behind this document is to create a guide to buying a used car in Sri Lanka. This is just my preliminary draft, and if it's useful I hope the experts here will add/edit it, and create a final detailed guide, which maybe could be posted somewhere in autolanka (if they think its useful) Buying a used vehicle in Sri Lanka (This applies to purchase of a used car regardless of the price/age, and applies to all registered and 'reconditioned' vehicles.) 1. tests you can perform: ================ Engine ==== Before starting: - check the engine oil. Is it at the correct level? Yes: OK/Owner topped up No: Owner does not top up, engine burning oil, etc Color of oil - Light brown/colorless - engine is running reasonably good/recent service - black - engine running bad/never serviced Note: diesels tend to have dark/black engine oil After starting Did it start easily? Yes: OK No: problems in engine/battery/starter motor/tune/etc. does the exhaust show visible smoke (white, black, bluish or grey smoke)? this coud indicate engine problems such as oil burning, worn engine etc. -- note: diesels do occationally smoke a bit, especially under acceleration does it maintain operating temperature? - listen to the engine in idle - do you hear clattering, rattling, or any odd sounds? they could indicate various problems ranging from bent valves to broken mounts? note: diesels are somewhat louder than normal gasoline engines Test drive =========== Lets say you decide to go for a test drive.. .. Step out of the vehicle, and ask the owner to get it out of his driveway/car sale etc. As he does this observe the vehicle, and see if it smokes or struggles during the procedure. Look at the place where the vehicle was parked. If there is visible engine oil/coolant, etc this could indicate problems in the vehicle. (water may be visible from the car's A/C, this is normal). Ask the owner to drive you: 1. Along a rough road (so you can test the suspension) 2. On a good road, ask the owner to drive up to at least 56km/h (or whatever local speed limit) so you can see how the vehicle performs at high speed. Turn OFF the radio and A/C and listen to the car for rattles/hums Tip: a hum from front/rear may indicate need to replace wheel bearings (or what our people refer to as razors) - Stop the car and ask the owner to back up a small hill, and observe the car exhaust for smoke, this is a good test of the clutch/etc. Actual test drive: - First make sure the vehicle has insurance and road licence which are valid. Ask to see them. Then test drive the vehicle very carefully. Make sure you have a good flat road and there is very little traffic. Remember its an unfamiliar vehicle and proceed with caution. First, test the clutch and brakes. The clutch should engage neatly before releasing the pedal fully. If it engages very late, it could mean a blown clutch plate. If there are clutch/brake problems, don't drive any further, and ask the owner to resume driving. And ask yourself whether you are sure you want to buy this car, from someone who couldnt even do basic maintenance. Reviewing the owner How the owner behaves during the test drive can give you a clue of how s/he uses the vehicle in real life. For example: - Does he roll down the window and drive (even though there is an A/C) - this may indicate that the A/C rarely worked. - Does he drive like a rally driver (in which case you can buy the car if you are willing to buy an extra engine, transmission and suspension) How has s/he spent on the car? If he has spent a lot on cosmetics while ignoring real existing mechanical problems, then you should probably consider another car. Is s/he straightforward and honest? Does what the owner says match up to what you see? For example, if the owner said the car had 2 owners in total and the log book copy shows 4 owners, then they could be lying about other things, and you should be cautious. Sometimes owners make mistakes, or simply don't know an answer, but overall if the owner appears to be honest and straightforward, that is a positive sign. [Ask Questions As you review the car, ask questions from the owner. If you see anything odd, ask about it. If the owner is honest and straightforward, its a positive sign. Try to gauge how much of what the owner is telling is the truth. A good way to do this is to pretend you don't know something and ask a question. After the test drive ============ After you return to the owners house/car sale, ask the owner to pop the hood and inspect the engine. - check temperature management. The gauge inside the car should be half or less. Aside from the gage, the engine should be reasonably managing temperature and the fans should be working properly. - Carefully tap the radiator cap with the tip of your finger. If it burns your finger off, the temperature management isnt good. Similarly the engine bay should not be boiling hot (unless it's a Nissan ) Physical inspection of vehicle ===================== 1. Visual inspection: simply look at the car - see if the lines are straight. Look at the paint. Uneven areas could indicate repainting. - look at the wheel arches. Look at the brakes. Look under the car (front/rear) If possible, take the car to a service station and inspect the underneath. If this is not possible, try to look under the car and see what is visible at least - (carry a flashlight with you when you go to see the car). - look for rust, damage, etc. - look at the engine compartment. Are there odd wires and do things look as if they have been messed with? Sometimes legitimate mods (e.g. alarm systems, aftermarket headlamps) require new wiring but if you see a mess inside, it probably means the wiring has been messed up by local mechanics in which case you should think carefully whether you really want this car. - (If the vehicle is cold) carefully open the radiator cap - check if it contains coolant, and if there is any signs of oil (could indicate a head leak) Look at the engine. If it has a slight layer of dust its OK. If it is shiny and has a layer of oil that means it has been washed at a service station. I prefer a car which has a normal slightly dusty engine vs one that has been washed and scrubbed to 'look' new. - look for leaks in radiator pipes. (with the engine off) remove the engine oil cover - if you can see nice clean silver metal with perhaps yellow brown color (engine oil) this is a positive sign. (note: diesels do tend to have dark/black engine interior, this refers to gasoline vehicles only). - Look at the fluid levels of the various fluids (power steering, brake fluid, auto transmission if auto) - if they are not up to level it could indicate leaks or careless owner. - if the vehicle is hot you may be able to open the radiator overflow tank (be careful) and check if he uses coolant. Not using coolant indicates: 1. Owner is an idiot 2. Radiator has leak and owner is topping it up with ordinary water. Either case, don't buy the car. 2. Tap test gently tap the body of the car, with a fingernail (dont rap it loudly) as you walk around. Check the hood, front left and right side and back carefully, also doors (as these are the main accident prone areas). Other general ideas: - Ask the owner what maintenance was performed. If he tells you a list of things replaced/repaired, this is usually a good sign and means the owner took some effort to look after car. - check the mileage? Mileage can be modified - but if it corresponds with the appearance of the vehicle then it could be accurate. - ask for receipts particularly for the timing belt/clutch etc HAS THE VEHICLE BEEN SERVICED/WASHED? If the owner was so cheap that he couldn't service the vehicle before he sold it, then do you really want to buy a car from him/her? *Exception*: Sometimes the owner may be actively using the car in which case it may be a bit dusty but all the same he/she should have washed/serviced/detailed the car within a few days of deciding to sell it. Now Consider the actual condition of the vehicle and make a list of all problems you encountered: Scenario 1: vehicle has major problems which can be fixed ===================================== for example: - Clutch plate gone. - brakes not too good. -minor suspension probs (e.g. weak shocks). - minor engine probs (e.g. poor tune up). Indicates that the seller was a cheap idiot (or typical local) Verdict: Buy with caution, knowing there could be other existing problems, and repair BEFORE YOU DRIVE said vehicle. Scenario 2: Vehicle has minor problems which can be fixed later ========================================= - A/C not running cold enough. - Minor dings, dents, scratches. - Minor cosmetic issues. Verdict: Buy the car, but set aside money to fix those problems later on. Scenario 3: Vehicle has major problems which can't be fixed easily =========================================== - Chassis problems (cracks/bent chassis) - major engine problems (e.g. grey/white/black smoke, burning oil, head gasket leaks) - major suspension/mechanical problems - gearbox problems which would necessitate replacing gear box... so on. Verdict: don't buy the car, unless you own a garage, have a million to spare, or are plain crazy. Other costs Aside from the above, there are a number of things you usually have to do, when purchasing ANY used car. These usually include: - Insurance & road licence. - 4 tires. - full service/oil change/air filter etc. - brake pads/etc - New battery (if existing battery not too good). - Timing belt (if close to 100k km's or multiples of that). Many people will say they replaced the belt, they could be lying. It's easier to spend 10k and replace it than to undergo a broken belt and engine rebuild. If they have replaced the belt, you can get a good garage to visually inspect it. signs of a good vehicle: - Vehicle is clean. (As in, the owner has washed, cleaned, and serviced it.) - is in good mechanical condition (good engine, transmission, suspension, brakes, body) - owner has focused on maintaining the mechanical condition of the vehicle - Vehicle has been maintained properly and scheduled maintenance has been done, e.g. brakes, clutch, timing, etc have been replaced at the proper intervals as necessary. - owner cares about vehicle, services regularly, engine oil is not dirty - owner is upfront and honest about any flaws. - owner uses a good garage for maintenance, and used original/quality components Suggestion 1: To all the experts here, can you please add your comments/suggestions tips on buying a used car. Suggestion 2: Would it be possible for Autolanka readers/Admins to set up a car pricing guide? This could be something updated regularly to show average true market values (like edmunds.com) and be useful to people looking to purchase a car. If any Autolanka readers have suggestions on what they check when buying a used car, please add them here. Update: Top gear have some excellent tips here:
  3. 20 points
    Here's a write up on my Daily Driver - the new Civic 1 Litre Turbo - I've so far done just a bit over 1500 Km's and since the engine was new didn't really push it to the max and I have not yet been able to do a really long trip or a drive uphill to BUT I will continue to update the blog based on the experiences as well as services etc. For a start I will touch the basics as well as all the cosmetic stuff and then get into the overall driving experience and later on the services etc. There is also a dedicated thread in the forum that is quite informative. But I hope this blog will also prove useful to someone. First of all the basics.... In a nutshell the 2017 Civic is the 10th generation in the line up. The particular model I have, and is getting popular in SL goes under the model code FK6 and has a P10A2 engine which has a measly 988cc but is turbocharged. The car is made in the UK (at Honda's Swindon Plant). I have heard that the agents now bring it down as well. (6.2M for the SR) There are 3 grades for the 1L turbocharged civic. SE, SR and the EX. The SE is the most basic model with the EX being the highest (the Tech pack is a further extension of the EX) There is roughly a 5,000 GBP (~ 1 Mil LKR) price difference between the SE and the EX. The SR on the other hand sits comfortably in the middle - it does not have stuff like adaptive damper system that comes on the EX. The Honda UK website lists down the differences of each grade under a section called 'Build your Honda' or something. If you're interested do have a look. There are 7 colors available and the Rallye Red is the standard . Every other color will cost around 500 GBP more . There is also the "Orange Line Pack" - which is basically an accessory kit that adds a touch of orange into everything - I've seen a few such cars in car sales in SL. Though I initially contemplated Sonic Grey, ended up with a Polished Metal Metallic specimen. With the 2017 Budget a new tax structure was introduced and under the engine capacity based taxation you'd be paying 17.5 m in taxes (1,754,976 LKR to be precise) for a brand new car with reasonable creature comforts and a bunch of bells and whistles which costs something between 4-5 mill based on the grade ( see above ) First Impressions For me the new Civic hatch looks like someone started designing and spent too much time doing a good job with the front and then ran out of time to design the posterior and hastily put an end to it. This explains the rather weird looking behind. The Sedan version I have to admit looks better. There's also waay too much plastic in the rear so much so that it looks like a joint venture between Honda and Arpico. There's a bit of aggressive styling at the front. The car is quite wide and it has a solid ground hugging look to it. As for the supposed vents you see at the front and the back - well those are fake. They're simply pieces of plastic made to look like vents. And yes it does have fog lights. I like the factory fitted black 17" alloys. Note the SE comes with 16" Alloys as opposed to the 17" found in the SR. Being a brand new car it came with a humongous bible-like user manual (thankfully in English) - along with the wheel lock nut as well as the tool kit and the tire repair kit (glue and the inflator which by now we are used to) If any of you intend to buy one from a regular car sale make sure they give you your wheel lock nut.
  4. 17 points
    What kinda of cheap fools are you guys?!?!?!?! Just cos the warning indicator comes on, doesnt mean whatever you run after that you get free petrol or anything. And you're not saving anything by running on the last few drops of petrol.. in fact you're loosing out by doing it.. 1- all the dirt and residue lies at the bottom of the tank and that means if ur running on the last few drops of petrol ur sucking that into the fuel system and harming your engine in the long run. 2- when you're tank has less petrol that means there's more air in it. Which means more space for the petrol to evaporate into the air and just float away when you open your gas tank at the pump. So stop being stupid and cheap and make sure you have at least a 1/2 tank in your tank... u dont save money by running on an empty tank...
  5. 16 points
    It's been little more than 4 years with my Hiace and it has done around 76,000kms so I thought its time I give you guys an update on it. Let me start the blog with the basics, Mine is a Toyota Hiace KDH206, this variant of Hiace is fitted with a 1KD-FTV turbo engine with an all wheel drive system. The AWD system in the KDH series is pretty much full time, it runs on all four wheels normally and if any of the wheels experience a slippage, the vehicle stops sending power to that specific wheel. There is a noticeable difference between the AWD variant(KDH206) and RWD variant(KDH201). The KDH206 is around 100kg heavier and you could feel that through the steering when you drive one. In addition, the KDH206 feels far more planted at higher speeds and around corners than the RWD variant. However the downside is that the full time AWD system drinks bit more fuel than RWD version. Cost of Maintenance In short the Hiace is not cheap run, I get fuel economy of around 6km/l in kandy and around 9-10km/l outstation, the RWD KDH201 would return around another extra 2km more per litre. Hiace is originally fitted with 195/80R15 8ply tyres and they cost around 22-23.5K per tyre from brands like Continental or Pirelli, while Maxxis tyre could be found for around 16k. The Hiace requires 0W-30 oil and a regular service which needs to be carried out every 5000km costs around 10K using Toyota oil, I was using Toyota oil filter as well, but now I have switched to VIC. ATF oil must be changed around every 40k kms, I change air filter and cabin filter every year. It requires super diesel and this is an absolute must, if you regularly pump auto diesel you will pay more in repairs than what you saved by pumping auto diesel. The most likely issues you would get from pumping auto diesel are DPF, which costs around 70-80k to replace and injectors, which would set you back around 500k for all four. So far I had to change only a bush which costed around 50rs, apart from that I have not had any repairs. Performance The Hiace pulls pretty well for a vehicle which weighs 2 tonnes, the 1KD-FTV with a variable nozzle turbo produces 100kw at 3400RPM and 300nm of torque at 1200-3200rpm and it is connected to a 4 speed conventional automatic gearbox. Overtaking other vehicles with Hiace is pretty easy, you just have to put your foot down, the turbo will come to life and you would be gone. It is always on the right gear, there's no unnecessary downshifts or up shifts, the gearing ratios are perfectly synced with the power band of the engine although it is only a 4 speed gearbox in a world of 6 and 7 speed gearboxes. The Hiace properly comes to life on hill climbs with the help of low end power and variable nozzle turbo. Handling is fairly good for a van, it handles better than large SUVs. The KDH series has much less body roll compared to the previous LH series, but it isn't great as handling of a car. I notice the difference in handling when I drive the Hiace after driving our Bluebird which has front and rear independent suspension. Comfort It doesn't handle large potholes and bumps as good as a car, but it does manage to soften small potholes pretty well. The diesel engine noise is evident compared to a hybrid or petrol vehicle but the noise reduces when the vehicle gets to the third gear or at around 70+ km/h speed. The A/C is epic on the Hiace, it is one of the best cooling A/C I have come across, I rarely have to set the A/C temperature below 26 degree Celsius on auto mode and that is without the dual A/C. There is plenty of space inside, 7 or 8 people could travel on long journeys with their legs stretched out and not crammed. The second row seat is the best place to be in, you get the dual A/C right in front of you, it is acoustic sweet spot and minimal sunlight enters the cabin. Practicality It is quite a practical vehicle if you are using it occasionally or for long journeys as it can seat 8 comfortably yet carry plenty of luggage(you could fit around 4-5 large travelling bag placed horizontally), it has got atleast double the amount of luggage space compared to a Noah/Esquire. However it is bit of waste of money if you are using it on daily basis as fuel bills are gone be crazy and parking these are not that easy within city limits. In addition, maneuvering these around narrow roads requires some skills especially roads with tight bends. Second hand value and parts Selling a KDH isn't difficult at all, if you maintain them right there will always be people willing it to buy it from you. There are plenty of body parts available but 1KD engine parts are bit difficult to find and even if you do find, it will be expensive Some used parts prices are: Pair of tail lights: 15k for older design and 30k for new design Pair of headlight: more than 100k without the HID unit Rear door: around 40k Fog lights: around 20k What I have done with my Hiace The Modellista body kit came with the van from Japan itself and I added the Modellista grill later on Original Toyota spoiler which came painted pearl white I tinted the fog lamps yellow with Nightbreaker bulbs in them I have also replaced the rear seats which are rotatable and come with a table as well I have done some electronic mods as well, Installed a transcend DrivePro 200 Carrozzeria tweeters with crossover and JBL component speakers with crossover(thanks to @TheFlyingFox) https://streamable.com/ujkce I was planning on installing FIAMM horns, but the JDM side of my brain took over and I went with Mitsuba Alpha https://streamable.com/nbipn Note: click on the links to access the videos My dad had the body kit removed for a short period of time and during that time I drove it through some muddy terrain. It did well.
  6. 16 points
    Imagine you bought a luxury 2nd hand car for a lot less than an toyota econ box (eg- Jag X-type-2001 vs Toyota vitz - 2009) Prices - jag (some where advertised at around 3mill) , Vitz (unreg - around 4 mill) Efficiency- Jag - 6kmpl, Vitz - 12kmpl(in the real world, not in the toyota fan club) If you run 12000km per year (should be less considering the mileage these cars show in their meters after some time ) The jag will cost Rs.300k , the vitz Rs.150k. So you save Rs.150k on fuel, But if you have invested the extra 1mill on the bank you get Rs.140k as interest. So econfreaks get Rs.10k off every year. Use it for 100 years and you get you'r money back, How fantastic I should consider an exchange to a vitz The best thing is when you are at the lights and you'r back is aching you'r b*tt is tatooed with the cheap fabric seats and you'r cheap metal watch is rattling due to the vibration of the 1L 3 cylinder engine on the steering wheel, and the AC is blowing louder than you'r cheap aftermarket chinese tv system to keep you from not sweating, a jag parks next to you, The guy in it who hasn't spent as much as you did is indulging in the whisper quiet interior, his b*tt on genuine English leather, arms held firmly on the leather warped wheel, piped music coming from his the high quality stereo. Then the lights go green you understand the mistake you made and try to hit the lamp post to commit suicide, but unfortunately 8 airbags burst out from nowhere and it won't let end you'r sufferings. This is just a description of what i would have felt if i used an econ-box, The names of the vehicles where given as examples only
  7. 15 points
    Just started my most ambitious resto project todate. It's a 1970's Alfa Romeo 2000 Berlina. Neglected very badly for many many years the body has rusted to a point that is scary. I originally bought the car for its parts for my Giulia Coupe and even used some bits for my Alfetta GTV. I was thinking of scrapping it many times but I could not get someone to come and dismantle it. However recently my tinker who "retired" after completing my 3 Alfas called me and said he might be interested in doing some work again. I showed him this car and to my surprise he said that it could be saved. I was still quite skeptical though when I thought about the cost and effort required. I slept on it for a few weeks. The more I thought about it though, it was hard to scrap this car for several reasons. 1. It's a classic Alfa Romeo - I mean just how many survivors are around in this country? You can count them with your fingers. 2. Although not a great looking car by Alfa standards, it's an inoffensive 132 bhp 5 speed Sedan with a glorious engine and gearbox. 3. This particular car has some good race history in this country. 4. Almost every fitting and trim bits are intact. 5. I'm a bit mad
  8. 15 points
    Guys, Please await the launching of AutoLanka new site with new features and easy access tomorrow !! -Team Autolanka
  9. 15 points
    The main aim in creating this thread is to educate people about performance modifications and to share the knowledge regarding them. And also to build a more performance oriented car community rather than one based on fiberglass and huge spoilers Why do modifications? It's done in order to improve things in various departments of a vehicle such as handling,looks,speed,braking etc. A modification can make or break a car,so it's important to choose them wisely. What to start with? It depends on ones preference and what one really wants from his or her vehicle. If it's just the looks a good body kit and a set of alloys would be more than enough to satisfy ones need.But if you are more of a petrol head and into performance one might take the performance path. Performance path is for those who like to feel,hear the difference and not just see it. In my opinion its the best path to take because you can enjoy it at the end of the day. Where to start? It depends on the vehicle one would select for modifications. To make things better the weaknesses should be treated first."Power is nothing without handling" but to start with handling one should know what the final product would be and what figures he is looking for, so for someone who hasn't got an idea about it, starting with engine modifications would be the wiser thing. But for someone who would feel that stock power is enough the brakes and handling is the way to go. Engine Modifications The extent of the modifications depend on what one is hoping to achieve and the amount of cash allocated. Then one would have to choose whether he is going in the NA route or the Forced Induction route.But if it's someone whose wanting to get more power from an everyday car whilst keeping its drivability and practicality it's better to go in the NA route. Some of you'll might disagree but its cheaper when compared to forced induction. The power of an engine is mostly based on air,fueling and ignition,so in order to improve things these departments need improvements. So lets see what could be done. Intake The intake provides oxygen for the combustion of fuel in the cylinder. Therefore more oxygen leads to complete combustion which leads to more power. Colder air contains more oxygen, one might have realized slightly improved throttle response during a cold day or in a cold area like Nuwara eliya. The EFi engines consist of various sensors located in the intake route in order to measure the flow,Oxygen percentage,Intake temperature etc. The values obtained by these will lead to the performance of the engine. If we could decrease the intake temperature more fuel would be added to the cylinder due to the more oxygen present in the air resulting in more power and vise versa. In order to do this most performance engines come with a cold air intake which manages to keep the intake temperature down most of the time Cold Air Intake (CAI) and performance filters Cold air intake is one which is directed in a manner which sucks in air which is cooler than the air inside the engine bay. Normally these intakes are routed through the front bumper or else below the engine bay. These systems have proved to improve the gains but has their down sides. The increase in pipe length will decrease the throttle response slightly and there are chances of water going into the system due to floods etc. If one has a well ventilated engine bay (preferably one with a large front grille) a performance filter will improve the power slightly. A performance filter is one which has better flow than the stock filter whilst filtering the dust and particles. But most of the time the filtration suffers. So one should consider the filtering property too when choosing a performance filter because it would have adverse effects on engine life specially in a country like ours. Cone intake vs Stock replacement performance filter The cone intake would let in more air leading to a slight power gain and also will produce the induction noise which some prefer. The gains will be mostly in the high rpm range and the low end gain would depend on the car and sometimes might be negligible. Also when fixing a cone intake it should be fitted in a place where it could draw in cool air sometimes placing in the stock location of the air box might lead to a drop in power once the engine heats up due to hot air being drawn in. For better performance a heat shield could be used to prevent it from drawing in heated air. The stock replacement performance filter would improve the low end mostly and is not fancy as a cone intake. It doesn't alter the induction noise either yet quite practical for a daily driven car. The gains from these modifications depends on a lot of factors such as the displacement of the engine,compression,flow rates etc. The gain in figures would be anywhere between 2-5bhp (*subjective) Throttle body and intake manifold modifications Increasing the diameter of the throttle body will lead to a gain in some engines while it would kill the low end in some others. The ones running high compression would gain from this cause of the increased amount of air fed into the engine yet it might lead to a drop in air velocities in the ones with normal compression. Throttle body polishing would increase the air velocity which would lead to a slightly better throttle response. Bigger intake manifolds will make a difference in a high compression NA engine or one which is having forced induction but will not be ideal to be used one cars with normal compression ratios. Exhaust The Exhaust system consist of many parts namely the Exhaust manifold,down pipe, catalytic converter,muffler. Exhaust Modifications Before doing an exhaust modification one should know what he wants from it. If it's just the sound a free flow muffler a.k.a Beat barell would do. But if it's performance one would have to modify the components of the exhaust. The exhaust system is based on the backpressure which is needed to some extent for a daily driven car but too much of it will hinder the performance. So the the extent of the modification depends on which rev band power is needed. If one wants to squeeze a bit of power with a tight budget a Cat back system would be ideal. Cat back exhaust It is a system consisting of piping with larger diameter and a performance muffler. But the changes are done after the catalytic converter. This would lead to a better mid and high end whilst keeping the stock low end power. But when choosing the pipe diameter bigger isn't always better. Therefore the piping with the correct diameter should be selected. Exhaust manifold (Headers) These would be changed according to the gain expected. If its a turbo conversion these would definitely need changing. The pipe diameter depends on the application its being used on but they have a gain over the stock manifold which sometimes reduces the velocity of the exhaust gas due to its size and construction. So for someone looking for more power the headers would be a good option. But they should be fabricated by professionals and also it's better to use thermal insulation to keep the engine bay temperature low. Muffler The muffler is used to muffle the sound of the exhaust. The choice depends on the owners preference but most of the time a proper performance muffler which is made by a reputed company sounds better than a Beat barell which is made in Sri Lanka. The free flow is said to reduce the back pressure slightly but the gain in negligible in some cases. The sound it makes depends on the size of the internal pipe of the muffler, The amount of glass wool, the size of the tip etc. A small muffler on a large engine will make is sound real bad while the other way around will hinder the performance of a small engine. There are two types of exhaust setups that could be used in a conventional 4 cylinder engine. First one is known as a 4-1 and the other is known as 4-2-1 4-1 Exhaust Here the 4 pipes on the exhaust manifold is fitted to one exhaust pipe which is known as the down pipe. The gains of this kind of system is mostly on the mid and top end. It is an ideal set up for racing because the engine is running in the high rev range most of the time. 4-2-1 exhaust Here two pipes from the exhaust manifold is joined to a single pipe. This setup improves the mid and low end gain and most suited for street use. Please feel free to share your views regarding these and to correct me if I'm wrong. More information to be posted soon Drive Safe
  10. 15 points
    Storing a car: 1. Clean the garage where the car is stored. If possible, remove all cans, bottles, junk, paper etc out of it. Sweep the floor. This is to get rid of rats, which may have already settled in your garage and to get rid of the dust and dirt. Never park the car outside, unless you have absolutely no choice. 2. Wash and vaccum the car once. This will remove dirt like crow droppings, which may damage the paint if it stays on the body for too long. Vaccuming will remove any dirt in the car, particularly food particles such as 'kadala', which may start smelling and attract insects. It will be a good idea to wax it too. 3. Get a trickle charger and connect to the battery. If its an old car (without an ECU), you don't need to do this. You can just disconnect the battery terminals. If you can't do this, make sure the battery is fully charged and its good enough to hold a charge. 4. Some websites will tell you to fill up on petrol. Don't do this. Petrol in Sri Lanka already contains water and chances are that water will vaporize. Also if the car is left in storage for long, fuel rails may get corroded due to the water in petrol. 5. If possible, remove the tires and place the car on jack-stands. If a tire loses all air in it, it might become permanently damaged. You may have to replace the tire(s). This will also remove the strain on the suspension. However, if you are storing the car for just a month or two, you don't need to do this. 6. Keep the handbrake OFF. If you keep it on, you will definitely get a brake bind. Place bricks behind the tires (if you didn't remove them) to prevent the car from moving. 7. Block the air inlet and exhaust pipe. This will prevent rats going in to the car. 8. For a relatively old car, apply some lithium grease (not petroleum grease) on door hinges and similar mechanisms. This is also optional. You don't need to do most of these things if you can start and move the car for a short distance, at least once a week. When starting a car after storage: 1. Give a good look at the surroundings of the car. Check if birds haven't made nests and cats haven't give birth on the wheel wells, under the engine or inside the rims. 2. Open the bonnet and check for evidence of rats. Look for droppings, chewed belts, signs of shavings of plastic. Check the air filter for any damage. 3. If you covered the air intake and exhaust pipe, make sure these are removed. 4. Check the fluid levels - engine oil, gear oil, brake oil, water. Peek under the car to see if you can spot any oil leaks. 5. Check the battery voltage and tire pressure 6. Start the car and run it in idle for a few minutes before moving. Check for misfires during this time. Most likely the engine will misfire due to water in petrol but hopefully it might go away after few minutes on idle.
  11. 14 points
    Hi AL, Thought I'd share photos of my KE72V. Technically it's my father's but unofficially it's mine A little history on this- my father imported this KE72V DX in 1989 with 40,000kms on the ODO. It's been with us ever since! The milage now is a little over 141,000kms and it still purrs along without any issues. I'm in the process of restoring it to factory original specification but I'd love to replace the stock K40 transmission with a k50 (5speed) transmission. I would if I could find one for cheap! I've even got the original seat covers! (I'm looking for another set, let me know if any of you good KE72 owners want to sell yours!) Instrument cluster- Future plans- I've already wet-sanded the entire body with 1500grit sandpaper in anticipation of a cut/polish job. Sadly that was a few months back and I spent all the money I had on another project! I'm hoping to cut/polish the paint soon. Both rear lamp lenses are cracked and missing bits so I'm searching for new lenses. My car is missing the fan shroud (better known as the 'radiator cover') that is essential for the factory AirCon to work. I've given up looking for an original so I'm going to try and get one scratch built. That's about it, hope you enjoyed my ride as much as I do! Thanks for stopping by and regards, Jay. EDIT: I moved all my photos of the '72 to a separate album in Photobucket so had to repost the direct links. Hope they turn up!
  12. 14 points
    are we hypersensitive to that level? he simply states his intent and that is enough to be taken as "ridicule" and "offensive"? to consider that the fiber community are "mentally handicapped" simply because OP wants to sponsor a different ideal? where are the offenses in that highlighted statement? i have said more offensive things about the homeega civic on facebook, and MD has been very illustrative in pointing that out. now there's true offense. go see that thread on the honda club page. are we superficial to that level? MD posts a photo of OP's car, and we are all in a hurry to judge it on its visual merits? without having seen the car in person, or having any idea of what he has done with it? which, having known kelum for some time, i know to be a lot, considering his age, financial status and experience. are we egotistic to that level? there are accusations here of him copying and pasting from wiki etc. but i'll have you know, i was never a good hand at mechanics. i learned a lot about tuning the car from OP. yes. i learned stuff i didn't know about honda engines, ECU's gearboxes and suspension from an 18 year old A level student who knew better than me. and as a result i have project R. he was one of my sources of knowledge, if i had let my ego get the better of me, i'd still be driving around in a riced out automatic GSR, deeply unhappy with myself. are we judgemental to that level? yes kelum knows godzi well. he was in the car when harsha pulled his famous 2nd gear pull. but does that put him in that lot? i know MD well. hell we've raced go karts and had hissy fits together! but does that mean i am a supporter of all the visual mods he has lauded? people please. let's save our ire for idiots like rotaryhead who come here with ammi's and appi's money and waste our time. kelum's a good kid. he may be a greenhorn but his knowledge on motor mechanics is on par or superior to most of us. let's give him a chance to say what he has to say.
  13. 14 points
  14. 14 points
    I have a different way of looking at this. Despite my taste and judging by almost all posts on this thread seems to lie elsewhere... whoever the owner of this car, put a lot of heartache, money, time and effort into building these things. They have horrible design taste but you gotta appreciate the sheer effort to get something like this done. We all know how hard it is to get something simple done here. So i'd say kudos to the effort! Just wish they had the exposure to learn about proper styling
  15. 14 points
    Mr Money Maker, I m not sure you have instilled the right name for yourself and since you seem to feel you have the capability of calculating car prices by looking at the internet let me give you a lesson on the duty and price of this particular car Valuation given by the customs - 23 000 Pounds Price of a sterling pound on the day of duty calculation- 205 SLR Age of vehicle for duty calculation - 1 year Depriciation scale- 80% Duty Percentage for 1600 cc vehicles = 200% Duty for this vehicle on the day of clearing = 23 000 X 205 X 0.8 X 2 = Rs 7,544 000 And the dealer price of this car would be between 19 000 -22 000 pounds depending on the mileage, condition and year of manufacture If you take an approx figure of 20 000 pounds then the SLR Price would be approx = 20 000 X 205 = Rs 4,100 000 Which would give you a landed price = Rs 7,544 000 + RS 4 100 000 = Rs 11 644 000 This price is also without shipping and insurance which is another Rs 150 000 approx These price have been calculated at a pound rate of 205 and the current rate today is 208 for a sterling pound You obviously do not seem to know the difference between the standard DS3 and the DS3 racing. Mr money maker i would not waste my time explaining to people like you, but on a public forum if you come and try to teach BRJW on your knowledge of the local car imports with prices without any proof then someone like you should be dealt with. And my advice is you better not take to car imports any time soon cause with the prices you offer you can name yourself Mr Charity. And for your information the car has been sold.
  16. 13 points
    In our childhood, at wedding parties we were keeping our eyes on balloons used for decorations, to own them soon after party finished. Our Polytikkas also have same feeling now ,I guess….
  17. 13 points
    Ive just signed up for this site and all ive been seeing are that anytime someone puts up a question about a hybrid, flocks of users keeps insulting them on their vehicle. I really dont see what they have to hate them so much?? I own a prius 3rd gen and i can tell from over 2 years of use that although it may not be in the same class and far from the of looks as an exotic or be anywhere near a sports car in performance it does serve its purpose better than any other car ive used so far. Ive been using a 121 and ive been using beemers and several other US models and ive experienced first handed that this prius is much more reliable and much economical in every sense compared to other cars of the SAME price range. I am an avid lover of tuned modified cars and the prius does not make those come true but it still is one of the best cars ive ever driven. To anyone looking for a car which is reliable or economical i would recommend a prius although if looking for a cheap car it would not be bad to get a used 121 or civic (i am not a environmental freak btw though i do care for it :| ) The prius saves me a lot on gas and i mean a lot. i drive over 3000km per month both in colombo and to outstation locations. during long distance driving i ususally get over 20kmpl but if not going agressively i can get around 30kmpl while going at 50-70kmph. in rush hour traffic i get varying mileage while sometimes it may drop to 16kmpl but usually about 19-22kmpl. and considering the price of fuel it is a great saving considering i dont even have to use 95 octane. i was going to buy an allion 2011 but decided against it as the prius was full of options unlike the allion. someone here suggested that i test the pre collision system by driving at a wall or tree... and i did try it. but i instead drove it at a pile of cardboard boxes and for their info it did stop automatically without hitting it. and the radar cruise control is also a useful feature but i dont use it much considering our three wheel drivers and motor bikes. other maintenance stuff is also lower as the service has to be done only every 10000km and there is no need to change ATF oil or any belts. ive been using it for 40000km and the brake pads are almost like brand new. (in the corolla i would have to replace every 25000) the only problem is the stock ture size that came in the touring mode. the 17" 215 tires are a bit expensive but this problem is not there in the regular JP prius. ive yet to replace a single mechanical part and there have been no issues at all except that i drained the 12V battery once by listening to the radio in ACC mode for too long. another benefit is when the car is stopped you can use the AC without burning fuel. the performance is nowhere near a BMW or an american car but it does provide more power than the majority of vehicles in sri lanka (outside inner colombo ) and the acceleration response is better because of the motors. and in PWR mode it feels much better than an insight in S mode (though the sound of the engine is not at all sporty... sounds like an aircraft taking off) On the contrary to what people say, the battery is as reliable as any other part of the car and the chance of your battery failing is almost nil unless you treat it badly which is the same for a gasoline car if you do not maintain the engine it will be damaged. and the battery can now be repaired by changing damaged cells which are about 7000 rupees only. and i believe a reason people insult hybrid owners are because they drive slowly. thats the fault of the driver, not the car.. driving slow will not make it more efficient and ive seen people in jaguars and BMWs going slower than that. to all who think hybrids are cheap vehicles. just because they are relatively cheap here, in japan they are about two time more expensive when used than a brand new allion.. AND i know some here are going to say im jobless to be typing this yeah. true. im doing this just because some people dont care about saving their hard earned money that doesnt mean they should insult others who do try. anyone who has any questions im willing to provide answers to the best i can. and im open to any comments why your'll hate hybrids so much (P.S i did hate them before i bought one... so you should try it without being prejudiced)
  18. 13 points
    Machan "pdeeban" don’t blow your own trumpet too much. Just because you got a permit and you go for a beamer will not make you special. Obviously I cannot afford 11mil, but honestly from the way you commenting, my guess is that the permit is not something you earned by your hard work and also you are one of those soda bottle millineries who got rich suddenly by favoring the ruling party, or by illegal business or you’re a dumb ass son of a rich father. So my advice is more you maintain silence, more you’ll doing a favor for yourself, especially in a forum like AL.
  19. 13 points
    Bullsh*t. Sad to see that you haven't changed that shortsighted mentality of yours even after all these years. Once a blinkered idiot, always a blinkered idiot I guess. To The OP, Most modern diesel engines are completely differrent beasts than old lumps like the Toyota C, L engines and the Nissan QD's etc. Stuff like common rail injection, Variable geometry turbos and so on all lead to an engine that has much higher stresses put upon it than the diesels of old. That is partly why modern diesels are very powerful and even more economical than ever before. All in all, this means that durability is reduced somewhat compared to the older lumps that could take 200-250,000 Km between rebuilds. This is not a problem common to the koreans either, even modern Toyota common Rails like the D4D's found in the Prados, hiluxes and so on can do maybe 150,000 Km before they too need to be redone. So contrary to what the so called "engineer" who replied first tells you, this is a problem common to most modern diesel engines, simply because of the stresses put on them. Another factor (In SL at least) is the quality of our Diesel. Most modern engines need clean diesel with a very low Sulfur content. Even our Super diesel is not quite good enough compared to what you get in other countries but it is certainly WAY better than the normal diesel. This is why all agents who sell modern diesels generally say very clearly to only use super diesel. Unfortunately, because the Korean SUV's are pretty reasonably priced, most of the time our donkeys (like the "engineer" up there) decide that they know better than the agent and the manufacturer, and pump normal diesel. Which of course leads to the engine getting buggered early on.
  20. 12 points
    Ok I know its been a few hours since his passing, but there's been very little discussion here about it. Being Sri Lanka's premier automotive forum Its totally unacceptable limiting the demise of this great man to a few posts in post whoring. So this is my eulogy and I hope it won't be the last I was 14 when I was first saw Paul Walker on screen. His character was troubled and, we have to admit, overshadowed by Vin Diesel's character for the most part of the movie. The movie wasn't too great either. fake turbo sounds, and "motec system exhausts"? what the heck is that? But it was fundamentally the first street racing movie and appealed to that throbbing street racer in young unlicensed car enthusiasts. So when 2 fast 2 furious came out for most of us that was the best movie ever. Paul Walker was THE man. Everything he did was just right. "Could you tell me right quick what would be a better motor for my Skyline, a Gallo 12 or a Gallo 24?" lines like that, "the stare and drive", giving the finger while going in reverse made a big impression on me. It wasn't a deep movie. It didn't have any deep messages in it. But for me it defined epic. I used to watch it every weekend. I still remember all the dialogues from the top of my head. When I worked part time the cinema I worked for had a habit of putting an employees favorite movie under their name on their name tag, And you can guess what mine said. For me Paul Walker absolutely defined what a heterosexual male should look like and act. He was a real guys guy. both on screen and off it. I started wearing converse shoes, before they went mainstream in SL, because of Paul Walker. I even walked like him and sometimes randomly read out his lines from the movie. No automotive icon or movie star had ever had such an impact on then 16 year old JB. And nobody has since. As I grew up I felt silly about it and sometimes I wasn't proud of what my name tag at work, the manager especially couldn't help but judge me from my taste in movies. I also felt f&f sequels that came after were "manufactured" for mass market appeal diverting from car only action. But today I'm not ashamed to admit that such is the impact this guy had on my life. He had a big part in my growing up, helped me notice things that I haven't noticed and opened my eyes to a whole new world. My life wouldn't have been the same without him. And it'll never be the same again now that he's gone. RIP Paul Walker
  21. 12 points
    Sad to see member camaraderie being abused like this.I've had AL members give me free parts and services when they found out that I'm in to classics.All in the name seeing a car they liked but couldn't own come back to life.To take that generosity and use it for financial gains would be the lowest of the low...
  22. 12 points
    Great.. I have a question. I have this cooking pan that I made dahl in and i left it too long on the cooker.. Can you recomend what I can use to clean it. I tried Vim and Sunlight but it didnt work... A quick response is much appreciated since i need to cook dinner in the same pan tonight.
  23. 11 points
    The first thing that struck me when i sat down to drive this for the first time was the really low seating position - it did not take a lot of getting used to though. The height is of course adjustable and provides a much comfier driving position. The passengers seat on the other hand though cannot be height adjusted. The rear seats too don't have the fabled "magic seats" functionality where you can fold up the seats to increase space in the rear - but you can fold the seats down to create a humongous amount of boot space - I do not quite remember the exact capacity but it's quite a lot. Due to the shape of the roof , while the rear seats are quite comfortable and have a decent amount of space for your legs you might feel a bit of head room is missing. But it won't really translate into a problem - unless you are from Marhsall Eriksen's family . The SR grade (and the SE) for that matter comes with fabric seats - and the interior is black by default (for all grades) . So no "Baij Interiyal" advertisements on the classifieds for this model then. The materials for the seats are quite "scruffy" and the interior is a dust magnet. The material used on the seats particularly are prone to attract a lot of dust and small particles of whatnot. There are speakers on all four doors - something I noticed in other contemporary Hondas as well - the doors also have the same dust-attractive upholstery. I told you there's only a repair kit - but the good news is there is a bit of space in the rear that can double up as storage space or a spare wheel well - so if you're paranoid about having only a repair kit, you can easily carry around a spare The cockpit is contemporary Honda fare. The steering wheel itself is quite plush and has a nice feel to it - though the steering itself is light which I will talk about when i have an entry regarding handling. The usual controls are all there including the cruise control buttons and beneath the wheel you can find the paddle shifters (again paddle shifters + CVT is something i would talk about later) The control for the lane keep assistant is also in the steering wheel. Mind you the Wiper control stalk is on the right and the headlight control stalk is on the left - takes a bit of getting used to if you've previously driven JDM's only. The "Auto" mode in the Wiper means that it will enable the rain sensing wipers and depending on the amount of rain you get the speed will adjust as well. Nice touch but i personally feel it's a bit too dramatic. If i remember correctly the SE grade does not have rain sensing wipers. This being the SR grade you do not get a push start you need a key - the Push start button is there only on the EX trim. With the honda sensing package you get some features like proximity alerts, automatic breaking and lane departure warning. These can be turned on and off and the switches are located near the ignition on the right hand side along with the headlamp leveling switch. The shifter console includes the parking brake (yes there's no separate lever for that), the brake hold button (so your foot can be taken off the brake in for example color lights) there is also a button to toggle the eco-mode as well as to turn on and off auto-braking. Between these two buttons you would find the adaptive damper button on an EX-trim car. There cubby hole is quite small and disappointing given the fact that this is not an alto- and there are no individual cup holders etc - there is a circular holder that can easily accommodate a bottle in the storage area below the slide-able arm rest. This storage area also has a usb port that can be used with the infotainment system. However it has to be said both the usb outlets in front are not in the most accessible places. The other usb slot is practically invisible and hidden by the armrest console along with the HDMI port and Next to that is the 12V circular power outlet. Mind you there is another 12 V power outlet in the boot as well - handy when it comes to plug in your car vacuum. There is also dual zone climate control - other than the dedicated climate control panel fan speed etc can be set via the touch screen.
  24. 11 points
    So i flushed and refilled the radiator coolant on my car today. just thought of sharing it in detail with you all who are willing to DIY, For the beginners like me to be precise. Things you Need: 1.) Radiator Flush 2.) Coolant 3.) A Garden Hose 4.) A rag/piece of cloth 5.) a bucket/tray to collect the water Step 1: * First make sure the engine is cool * Locate the drain tap below the radiator and remove it. * After Removing the drain tap Remove the radiator cap on the top * Let all water get drained and Collect it for future references Step 2: * Close the drain tap * Fill a small amount of water first * Fill the radiator with the Radiator Flush * Then fill in the radiator with water all the way and close the radiator cap * Start the engine and keep it idle for 10 - 20 minutes with the Heater ON (WARNING: Do Not Drive) * After 10 - 20 minutes, shut down the engine and wait till it cools down (approx - 1hour) Step 3: * After the engine has cooled down, Open the drain tap and then remove the top radiator cap (if not sure, use the rag/cloth to open the cap) * Squeeze the rubber pipes that transfer water and let all the water drain from the radiator * While the drain tap is open, run a hose from the radiator cap with slow flowing water so it wont overflow * While the water is running through the radiator, start the engine and let it idle with the heater on for another 10 minutes (might need a mate for that) * After 10 minutes or so in idle shut off the engine first and remove the hose * Collect the water to check whether the water is clean * Let the engine cool down for another hour or so before re-fitting the drain tap and radiator cap to avoid contact with the hot engine Step 4: * Re-fit the drain tap and fill it with coolant and water (make sure to use the right amount of coolant to water ratio, in my case 1:3) * There is no proper way to measure the water level, The best way is to determine with the collected water the first time you drain the radiator, Best thing is to use a water bottle when refilling to avoid spilling. * Top up the Reserve tank with proper coolant to water ratio (might have to remove the reserve tank from the car to get the water out) * Close the radiator cap and start the engine and let it idle for 10 minutes or so, so all the air will be out of the system and the coolant will be circulating properly in the system * let the engine cool down again and re-open the radiator cap, there will be less water this time so fill it with coolant and water till it reach the mouth of the cap and close the radiator cap. Things You Should Be Carefull With: * Wipe off water from the fan belts before starting the car * Make sure water want spew on to the distributer cap and so on * Before re-fitting drain tap make sure the engine is cooled down to avoid contact with a hot engine * Always fill it with coolant, Do Not Cheap out and just use water * If you have HID kits install, make sure water wont get contact with the balasters and wires. * Since the engine has to be on idle a lot, make sure there is proper ventilation for the exhaust fumes to go out. * Be gentle with the drain taps, since its made of plastic it might break off if way too much pressure is use. and for some cars like Mazda's u have to remove the drain tap with a wrench. Some Images of the process: Radiator Drain Tap: Existing Water in the Radiator (I removed the exisitng coolant the day before to do the process but because of the rain i couldn't proceed so filled with normal water before doing the flush): Filling Radiator Flush: Rubber Pipes to Squeeze: Heater ON: Collected Fluid after Flush: Running water through the radiator with the drain tap open and engine running: Collected water from the radiator after 10 minutes of constant flowing water: Refilling coolant: (1:3 - in my case) Refilling water (1:3 - i used a bottle to measure the needed ratio) Hope this will be helpful to someone. Good Luck.
  25. 11 points
    Bought an Imagine LifeStyles driving event through Groupon to drive either a Lamborghini or a Ferrari for 3 laps. Signed up for 3 extra laps and my first choice was the Lamborghini Gallardo; wasn't sure which Ferrari they would bring 'cos it had multiples in their images on their website (wow, look at me being so picky about a car I'd probably never be able to own, lol). However, when we arrived at the event, they were all F430's so we wiggled our way into the Ferrari line for the extra 3 laps, lol. Bought the picture/video package so here's the vids from the GoPro Warning ... it was only the 2nd time on a track for me, the last time was in a Cobalt at the GM event ... so I was pretty damn nervous and also wanted to learn as much as I can from the professional instructors who rode with us. I didn't have to impress anyone by driving like a bat out of hell; it was more about enjoying the experience than testing limits of the car or myself First 3 laps in the Lambo ... first time in such an expensive car, nervous as shyt and didn't know the course or what to expect of the car, so it was a bit slow at first. Also, they had the trans in full auto so we were at the mercy of whatever it did, and for some reason it was pretty laggy. You'll hear me get on the throttle; and think I'm easing into it, but it's actually mashed to the floor. Sometimes it decided to downshift, sometimes it just didn't, oh well ... it handled pretty nice though Second was in the F430, and the dude before me messed up the clutch when he came to the pit 'cos he was still on the throttle and braked and did some bs thing and all we smelled outside was burned clutch ..F. So when I got in the car, the clutch was super grabby and ready to die ... you'll see me stall out when I try to ease into it in the beginning. It was the second time stalling it, lol. Said F 'it and lightly goosed it to get it rolling out of the pit lane; you'll hear the thing clanking and clanking. On the track though, it was much quicker than the Lambo and handled much better too (but the Lambo did have a certain charm to its handling though). You'll see me getting into this a bit more 'cos I was a bit more familiar with the track and the car was more responsive...
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