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My grand ol man had a 1955 Bullsmobile,to get more HP ..er... I mean BP,he used a long stick.

you may have a point.. i heard cities which are close to the sea contain more salt water than cities inbound like kandy.. but said that the point i wanna bring out is that people who use water arnt complete idiots and actually, we sort of have stopped helping the OP now mate.. for your first service, just use coolent, and even if you doesnt, it isnt a big issue, but to be on the safe side and personal satisfaction, just use coolent

Yes we can, by saying that there is no point focussing on a "wattage" of an item, cos it doesn't really exist. Wattage is really just a thermal measure, a measure of how much heat that item is putting out. Think of keeping your hand on a 100 watt lightbulb...you will get my point. Look at it this way, when you see wall sockets, they are rated 5 amps, 13 amps, 15 amps etc. That is because they are designed to be used with a certain load current, nobody cares about how many watts you're drawing out of a plug point but how many amps your appliance is rated for (usually most appliances have an Amp rating as well). Your trip switches are not rated to break at a certain wattage but exceeding a certain current. In any case, the wattage of any item is almost never constant, because it depends on how much of a load is on that appliance. For example, your monitor will have a different "wattage" (read: thermal output) based on what sort of image is being displayed on the screen (yes, depending on the colours), your speakers a different amount based on what is being played through them, together with other factors like resistance in the device, in the cables, etc. etc. What you're seeing displayed there is actually just an average over certain test scenarios (this is less likely to fluctuate for current consumption). And then it doesn't end there, cos it also depends on the efficiency of the actual appliance (eg: a colour TV may consume more than a black and white, but if the design of todays LCD is much more efficient than the 30 year old B&W, chances are it actually consumes less than the old box)...not much worth worrying about cos the differences will have minimal effect on your actual light bill. Bottom line, don't waste time chasing some figure like wattage, because that's a bit like chasing after the unicorn. If you really really want to measure wattage through a device then you can get some expensive lab equipment (expect to spend upwards of 2 lakhs)...but for your intents there is absolutely no point. Anything that claims to be a watt meter off the shelf probably isn't very reliable at all. Rather, borrow a reliable multimeter (not cheap off the pavement stuff, most anything you will buy for less than 10k is not very accurate ) like a Fluke 80 (these are not cheap, but certain friends of yours may have one if they're into electronics repairs) and measure the current consumption by using the ammeter function...you already know the Voltage (roughly) which varies between 220 to as much as 240 in SL at 50Hz...you can use the formulas you learned from your O/L science class even to calculate rough power (wattage) Hope that is of some use. Suggest you do what Sifaan suggested, as I am not sure you want to be poking around with live current.

This could be due to the use of 90 octane fuel, my march did this and it went away after changing to 95oct, The Fit Aria is a pretty good car and has best value for money in it's class, But the market drop is due to some problems with the cvt issues, I recommend u to have a full checkup at the company before u use it because u can't tell what the car was upto in japan as it is recondition. By the way is it the is it the 7 speed one if so try to shift manually and see if the problem presists.

There is a brake light on/off switch connected to the of the brake pedal. Originally this comes with a plastic connector. Usually when this plastic connector get damaged, the brake lights stays in on position. You can replace it with a simple bolt. Any auto electrician can do it ( Also if you are confident this is a DIY work)

How a 97/98 SUBARU FORESTER?

Totally agree with you mate! Don has given the best answer for the thread..thats my opinion about the inq too. Some guys are so hilarious here..good fun Water found in radiator instead of coolants = Idiotic car owner....grow up children MINIACE

Hey amila why didn't you add Viva Elite to your list. Its better than K10. And in city it does around 12km/l. Panda only do around 8km/l. But its 1.2L and the most powerful of the above. on youtube you can watch great videos of Panda.. Just amazing. but lack of spares in SL. My choices are; 1. Viva Elite (good features. value for money.) only added for your info. 2. Panda (powerful. lowest price) 3. A Star (Most expensive of the list. but seems to have lots around) 4. K10

You are having buyer's guilt aren't ya? You are just trying to convince yourself that you made the right decision to buy that Prius. In reality this 20kmpl is all bull kakka isn't it... You just want to compare your figures to ours so you can go to bed happy... If a Prius buyer is truly that happy, they would not be going around comparing Dicky sizes... Correct me if I am wrong.

The more octane the better. Imaginary motorcycles are designed to handle fuel with a higher octane count.

indeed; but all this flak only came about because of your "suggestions or advices" (sic) to another beetle owner to do what you had done, and the subsequent rejection of it. so, yes, you can do whatever you like with your car, but people here don't seem to want to know.

Sadly, you're right, you can do whatever you want to your car. But when you post a "oooh look how clever I am" post on an Automotive forum with pictures of how you've messed up an iconic car, well let's just say you shouldn't expect everyone here to go "lol ya machane nice ridezzz" or some such nonsense. This ain't elakiri.com y'know....

that's true, but kind of gives the impression that Kelvin is an indication of the brightness... Kelvin is actually the "color temperature" of the output; however, at higher colour temperatures the light output (in lumens) does reduce; but light output also depends on power rating of the bulb and even manufacturer variations; i.e. there's no guarantee that a 4300K will always be brighter than a 5000K.