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Aight Imma say it: the amount of repairs and the cost you end up having to eat sound quite excessive for a 6-year-old Japanese car in all honesty... is she worth all this trouble and cost? There is also the issue of a potential timing belt failure

This sadly is the Honda agent's mentality - they are still living in the EK3/EG8 age - I may have said this before but when you take it to them they are always like this is normal The "Hub" and Sta****d are at two ends of the spectrum. I personally have not been to the 'hub' but my friends have. And from their experience, they are somewhat paranoid . Customer : 'I noticed the oil level has dropped slightly' Hub : 'Your engine is done for replace the Engine. Replace the gearbox and replace the windshield wipers' at the agents Customer: ' My engine oil level is at zero, the engine is overheating and there's smoke coming out of the engine bay' St****d : ' Aiyo that is normal sir, here pour some kerosene into the oil filler' and proceed to throw a bucket of water to cool down the engine. To replace my brake pads and the coolant tank I went to this place in Yakkala who mostly deal with Honda's - I'm generally happy with the little work they did will not mention names as per forum rules.

Putting a side brake-pad materials, quality of the pads, etc...rate of wear is more dependent on driving style than it is on mileage. If you are heavy on the brakes and constant braker, then, irrespective of the mileage, the pads are going to wear off. Having said that I do have to side with @Hyaenidae on this. It does seem like an awful lot of niggles for a 6 year old Honda. Especially with such a low mileage and what seems to be a cared for car as well. I wonder if the non-1000cc Civics are also having the same level of niggles come up (and I mean actual issues and not the whole "known to", "possibly can" situations which every engine on the planet has but actual things that do happen). I suppose it is a case of "gone are the good old days".

Mahindra Cosmo mini bus

Again...I would not say its possible nor would I say you can't. Sorry, really not an answer to your question. If your engine is in good health and you do normal low-intensity runs with the engine coming to proper operating temperature, then yes you would increase the possibility of getting closer to 10K. But the reality is that the quality of the fuel, quality of air being induced into the engine, etc... would also affect this. So, although the oil might suggest 10K and you do low intesity, low stress runs, in reality, this would actually reduce. So...it is all very contextual. The reality is that everyone, from the manufacturers to garages to service stations, gives you a standard recommendation because that would be the safest way to go about it. Otherwise, they would have to come up with 1000 different oil change recommendations, one for each of their customers. So, it is best to figure out what is best for your car by actually studying/observing it.

The problem with Stafford and indeed many agents are they don't follow preventing maintenance when servicing. This is all in the manual. They are content to do an oil change, undercarriage clean up, wash and vacuum and that's pretty much it. Then for example when the transmission gives an issue when fluid hasn't been changed as per the user manual, they condemn the car. The next big issues for these Civics will be the drive belt snapping. I dread to think of the repair cost for those and how the agent will manage it. Ideally these should be changed when approaching the six year mark pro-actively.

IMO I feel it is with the newer cars that more or less all the agents are mentally screwed with and give BS stories and cover ups for everything. Here out my logic.... For older models, like E100 Corollas, EK Civics, and B12-B14 Sunnies, the agents know what to do with them and are equipped to deal with the cars. Partly because they themselves handled the cars (selling them) and therefore got trained and tooled (there would at least be one old grease monkey who was with them from those days). However, with these new models....they simply did not get trained or tooled properly as, on the one hand, they did not deal with the mass models we got down as grey imports. Secondly, the equipment, etc..requires capital that they simply did not have.

Got the rotors resurfaced at St**ford. Somewhat decent improvement, however they didn't bother to check about the main complaint, which was spongy brakes. They gave me some nonsensical lecture about how older cars are better than the new Civics and they don't like the new Civic at all since it has way too many gadgets and people who spend a lot of money on things like this, Benzes, BMW's, etc. just have way too many expectations; apparently the main point of a car is to get from point A to B. Ignored the idiot who told me that and asked him why the Brake Hold was struggling when downhill. He was clueless and said that it's normal and it must be the way the brakes have worn in a particular direction. He went on to say that they only tested it uphill since the function of brake-hold is to prevent the car from slipping backwards. Bugger was full of nonsense. On the flip side, they also spent a day with the car removing the links and checking for any play, which they claimed there wasn't any. If I wanted to change the links regardless, it would be about 54k per wheel. Asked them to place it back as-is. Funny enough, after that the suspension seems to be performing significantly better and isn't wobbly anymore. The only thing is that it still tends to slightly fishtail sideways at the rear when driving at higher speeds over manhole covers, etc. on the road. Decided to take all these into my own hands and give explicit instructions to whichever garage I take the car going forwards, which will be Hy**** H**. Next step: get the brake fluid flushed and replaced since it is dark + there's most likely air bubbles inside. Figured this out since upon opening the reservoir lid, there was a bunch of bubbles that surfaced too. That's most likely causing the spongy brakes. Second, is to get a 3D wheel alignment done (possibly at Tyreb**s.lk) since they came recommended by Hy**** H**. This is to check if anything on the rear is out of place that can cause the minor fishtailing. Shall keep you guys updated!

Got this same model given by my neighbour, he has too many so he gave me one of them. He has replaced the steel pipe with a Flexi horse, I think it is a Brake hose so that allow me to reach narrow places. Ha ha

PMd

Well. When you have no claim bonuses it usually gets applied to lowering your subsequent premiums. So, by making your claims, you might have lost them. However, I doubt your premium would have increased by that much just by losing any bonus discounts. What might have happened is that they reassessed your risk profile and the valuation of your car along with the loss of the bonus discounts. This usually does happen in other parts of the world so I can't see why it wouldn't in SL.

You will probably not get 15KM/L on a normal Internal-combustion petrol car. Maybe in a tiny kei-car but those come with very little rear leg space. If you do mostly weekend outstation driving the best option is to go for a slightly large(ish) Sedan. A corolla 141 will be a safe and solid bet - will do 10-12 KMPL on a long drive. Hybrids make sense for daily drivers but why go through the hassle for a mostly weekend driver. Allions Premios are a bit overpriced but if you can find one in your budget then it's a good choice. Other options - Bluebird Sylhpy G11, Lancer CS3/Maybe an EX. If you must go for a hybrid - The FIT GP1 feels a lot more nippy and fun compared to the Prius. - The Prius is comfier, and has more rear leg space and the rear seats are better - the GP1 has the magic -seats that can be lifted up so they're not the most comfy. But it's a very practical car specially to haul stuff and it has insane interior space for its size. - Things that commonly go wrong in the GP1 are *usually* cheaper and easier to fix than in the Prius. [please focus on the words commonly and usually - I don't want to be sued ] -Prius is better on fuel.

Ok then since no one answered, Its a Honda Integra (Type R) 4th Gen. BTW @iRageis the car still owned by the tea factory owner?

I assume you do a lot of city driving? if my memory serves me correct yours is the sonic-grey one that's there in the office parking lot at Dematagoda? Break pads do wear out relatively soon. I've gone with Brembo for my 2nd set. Also the braking on this model is next level. Maybe a trade-off Well yeah - It's always a matter of choice isn't it? I mean I've had to replace the A/C condenser at just 3 years into ownership (that's more to do with the gas and the local conditions). If we look at the fairly newish models (less than 10 years) all the variants available in Sri Lanka have some sort of niggle - Aquas,Axios,Vezels,Graces,Fits (and the Tiny turbo-engined Euro's.) If you want to have a taste of a newish car with some bells whistles some fancy techie bits and good driving dynamics, (yes the 1L turbo and CVT combo is nothing to write home about but throw this into a winding road , sharp bends and you'll be grinning ear to ear) , is still budget friendlier than a euro to maintain, returns acceptable fuel figures( albeit on octane 95), and doubles up as a very practical family car - the choices are rather limited AFAIK the 1.5 L Variant does not have this belt issue. - the 1.0 engine is a wet belt.

Still love the car, but she’s a gold-digger alright! Ugh yes the dreaded timing belt… hopefully I don’t get that little surprise too. So far the belt was mentioned as good. Has anyone else had their brake pads wear out so quickly though? It’s ridiculous that it only lasts like 3-4 years despite such low mileage. Might’ve had better luck with 3rd party pads than the stock ones, I guess!

Was able to collect my parts from the EMS office today, no hassle the process was pretty straight forward. The customs officer was very helpful and explained the details. Paid a minimum tax and was able to get the parts within a 1 hour.

Guys what is your infortainment wallpaper.. I use this, I think I got it from CivicX site

Look for service records. This model (141) is known for compressor issues around 100k kms Also CVT transmission issues if not properly maintained. Atleast CVT oil should have been changed in every 40k kms Dashboard cracks

Out of the two the comfortable (with available options included in the comparison) and the one with less maintenance cost would be the FIT GP1. However, the Aqua would be a little bit more fuel efficient. The FIT GP1 battery is more reliable than the Aqua's however, be sure to check the Usable Capacity of the hybrid battery before going for it. Anything below 20% means you would need to attend to the battery. Anyway since you are going to buy a car that has been used over a decade, you will need to spend some money on maintenance to get the car into a sound mechanical shape be it the FIT or Aqua. The amount you would need to spend and the things you would need to attend to would depend on how well the previous owner took care of it. So get both of them inspected and if possible get a car with an honest maintenance history. You can choose based on your preference which model to get and look for a good condition specimen as well.

They are really nice cars. The 2015 3008 and the 508 really is above the 06/07 series.Electronics are the main let down tbh. The 2.0 Diesel version is actually very solid. Less issues overall compared to the petrol by a long shot. Owners hang on to them though. Very reliable and efficient on fuel. The 1.6THP is troublesome, but the drive makes up for it. That creamy torque really makes it a blast. Just drove from Kalutara to Kandy,such a pleasure. Ate the hills up no problem. Key is to getting a rectified 1.6THP Also it did 15kmpl on the freeway. 100kmph smooth driving. Your advice and input on Pugs are very much appreciated. After all you were the resident Peugeot guru on AL!!!

Sure as hell looks like a grumpy old man

You're now stimulating the soft spot I had towards 508 but the premature engine wear and tear still keeping me away from that gen of Peugeots. Big mistake by reducing the pot capacity and trying to yank out more power. Also this reminded me of a 607 which only had 16k on odo sometimes back and a guy had jumped in thinking it's a minter since low mileage. ended up fixing almost all the car due to various issues. Personally I don't prefer low mileage cars rather will go for decently driven yet well maintained specimens.

The first Rolls Royce Spectre goes to drum roll please...... Ukraine! And a Minister as well. Supposedly $600,000/-, reminds me of another country where the story is the same where people suffer and the politicians enjoy themselves.

Another price update (508 1.6thp) Engine bottom mounts-35,000 New solenoids and misc on starter motor-18,000. New motor is 100k plus. A/C Blower unit- 50k as told. Will update. Cooling fan- 105k. Got me a mint recon from dubai for 45k. Mine is going through a full mechanical restoration due to being parked for months on end and a rat attack. Almost two months now. So far runs like a dream, Electronics are being looked into atm. Please use a covered garage and never let it sit on rain when possible. Also try to drive these cars as much as possible. Mine drove < 5000kms in 2022 and 800kms in 2023, that did not end well. The more you drive the less it actually goes wrong. Guy I know has a 3008 with 25k thats a real leda goda, another fella with a 100k plus 3008 runs like a biatch. Some parts mentioned were replaced for preventive maintenance.

Agreed not bad at all. The agents are absolute trash. I remember reading that thread of you test driving one. Nice cars but can be finicky if neglected.

Uhh..it could be something like the ABS actuator or something getting activated. In which case it is quite normal (in some newer cars you would even here a hissing sound coming from the car after you have turned it off and walked away from it because of systems like the EVAP system getting depressurized). Sounds/noises are really hard to comment on without actually listening to the sound and trying to trace it to what is creating it. So...it could be something normal as above (which is highly likely) or something totally different.

🤣🤣 🤣🤣 🤣🤣 🤣🤣 🤣🤣 Oh..sorry..that was rude... uhh...no...maintaining popup lights is a pain like you have never imagined Actuators, relays...they are all pretty much out of production and have been so for like decades. Popular models like AE86 Truenos, RX7s, etc...have after market reproductions that cost an arm and a leg and the kidneys of your first born and your first grand child. Even then those who cannot be bothered just convert them in to fixed headlamps. When these go bad you are at the mercy of a good electrician/electrical-wizard to sort it out for you using alternative parts. It's cool to say you have pop-up lights, but they are a pain to maintain and lack practicality. As for the other parts....you are going to have a similar problem with whatever old 80s, 90s or older car you get. Even for cars like 80s Corollas, Sunny,etc..body parts are becoming an issue. The exception are cars like the KE72 DX wagons, Lancer wagons, E100 Corollas etc...where they sold them buy ship loads around the planet and have a large aftermarket parts supply. Obviously the rarer (i.e. sold less number of units by the manufacturer) the car is the harder it will be to find these parts (sadly the Astina, Integra fall into this category). Going back to the pop-up light car...normal body parts are a bit easier to come by than the pop-up light as things like door handles, switches would have been used in other models of the period. Body panels..since most are actual metal you need a good tinkering guy to beat it our and fix it properly. Lights will be a hard to come by item. So no...don't expect to walk in to a speciality store or any body shop to find a stock of parts for these cars. You will have to walk, beg, cry, yell, walk more to find these parts.

Yes correct @harshansenadhir this was the best picture I could find of the rear angle I wanted. Interestingly the rear has similarities with the main rivals of BMW & Mercedes models. The rear lights specially would have confused people to thing of the BMW 5 series gen 1. Its a very clean classic yet beautiful design in my eyes.

quite reasonable considering cost of living these days. never looked at dealer except when getting some minor accident repairs for 407 and buying small bits and pieces (engine cover retainer clips and door window guide for 406 which was nowhere to be found). Test drove 508 back then but didn't move into, rather walked away from the brand.

I wouldn't say they are worse. But consider this. Toyota's are overpriced in Sri Lanka. If you look at the prices : the same price of a Honda Civic FD4 or an Axela which are around 13-15 years old will only fetch you an Allion that is 20 years old and Yaris/Belta which is a class below the Civic/Axela/Lancer. (Yaris/Belta are budget sedans and if you properly inspect one from each model you'll realize that the Civics/Axela/Lancers are much more refined, have more features and generally a better grade of car than the Yaris/Belta)- with the Axio lineup Toyota created a sub-line-up of the Corolla for Japanese domestic market ( @iRage will have more info on that) so if you do a test drive and spend time with each of these cars you'll figure out that the Toyota's in the same budget, while decent cars are a notch below when it comes to overall refinement. While acknowledging fuel consumption is important in these times do not base a purchase purely based on it - this will leave you disappointed. Your friends at work, your cousins and your uncles will probably tell you that the Allions, Yariss and Axios give magical fuel economy but in reality it differs based on usage, condition of the car, the state of the engine etc.. For instance the Yaris comes with old school auto gearbox as opposed to the CVT on belta- the fuel economy is really not that good. Due to the sentiment of fuel economy and reliability Toyota's tend to be seen as investments hence changing hands frequently- meaning that these cars are usually not really cared for, dressed up and sold. If you do get a good honest Allion by all means go for it but honest Allions/Premios/corollas are like unicorns. Of course None of these cars will give you the fuel economy of your Suzuki Stingray. RE the insight which is a hybrid - if you're ok with hybrids check out the Civic FD3, : A much nicer and more complete car than the insight - and yes it's a hybrid. Left field suggestion : If you can live with the looks Get a 2008/2009 Nissan Tiida for around 4.5 Million max (if you bargain you can get for well below that) invest the remaining 2M in a Fixed Deposit. Even if you get 10% interest rate you'll still get 200,000 in interest per annum - which calcualates to 16,000-17,000 per month that you can use on fuel. (Suggest to redo these numbers - i'm giving these off the top of my head and it's been a long day so my numbers could be wrong)

1. It is illegal to use a car on open papers...pure and simple...there is no reason for anyone to genuinely use a car on open papers. IMO a person using/selling a car on open papers is either deceitful or stupid and is doing it to keep the number of owners on the registration book low just so that the market value does not drop (fyi...at the end of the day number of owners of a car has nothing to do with anything..what matters is the condition of the car then and there...knowing how cheap our car owning public is the more owners would imply higher risk of bad maintenance..but that can happen even with just one or two cheap owners) 2. You have no idea if the person selling the car is actually the owner of the car and if he/she is actually authorized or genuinely selling it. A majority of Sri Lankans are some of the most dishonest people on the planet (especially when it comes to cars). So you cannot trust it. 3. You have no idea who or how many past ownes the car has had and what it has been used for and who has done what for that...it might have gone through 50 owners for all you know been used as a get away car in major crimes.A majority of Sri Lankans are some of the most dishonest people on the planet (especially when it comes to cars). So you cannot trust it. If you must buy a car that is on open papers...get the seller to first transfer it in to his name and then sell it to you (one day service for him and then transfer it to yourself after a grace period. This way any pending tax and other liabilities will fall on him before you take over the car. Also, if the car is found to be having any legal issues you can show that you legitimately bought the car and your liability would be limited. Due to operating limits thanks to covid this might not be possible anymore as I hear they are rather picky about one day transfers. Eitherway, it will take time. Make sure all the documentation is legit...service records, revenue/luxury license payments, eco test reports, etc...A majority of Sri Lankans are some of the most dishonest people on the planet (especially when it comes to cars). So you cannot trust any of it...people even forge service records now.

My sincere advice to you is to stay away from baic x25 i own one and it comes with so many issues from day one 1) fuel efficiency within city is 5.5 km per liter ( not exaggerating) micro is not bothered to rectify this for me 2) no warrenty even manufacturer warranty for cheap tyres which went flat twice and micro never bothered to replace for me 3) there was a deep scratch in the body on the day I bought it but gt it painted free 4) so much rattling noises from dash board and back . Addressed this issue 3 times but not resolved 5) no spare parts for steering 6) very slow pickup for a 1500 l engine and not easy to overtake 7) wheel disc were all rusted and got them all painted for free 8)as a member in this group said if you don't know much about mechanics of car then they try to fool you by sayin 5 km perlitre is normal until the warrenty and free service period ends 9)I spoke to another owner whose AC was not working 10) vehicle is not sound Proof and not air tight either as foul smell from outside enters the vehicle as you pass by any fountain or carbage areas All in all stay away from baic x25 42.5 lake would go down the drain if you spend in this vehicle as the second hand market is also low even though it looks good in appearance do not buy baic x25

carboy2011 !! yes, here we can see few versions of TRAD sunny. 1.Half light version 2.Full ight version Half light version 1.4FWD version with semi optioin ( A/C P/S ) black carburator model. came with 1300cc engine 2.5FWD version with full option Ex Saloon 1500CC carburator model. 3.5FWD version with full option Ex SaloonGII vertion 4.5FWD version with full option Super Saloon 5.5FWD version with full option Super Saloon Velvet interior 1500cc EFI engine which called highest grade on Half light vertion. Full Light Version 1.4FWD version with semi optioin ( A/C P/S ) black carburator model. came with 1300cc engine (B12) 2.5FWD version with semi optioin ( A/C P/S ) Electric carburator model. came with 1500cc engine (a) one came with semi option luxary interior (FB12) ( other one came with normal interior ( may be B12) 3.5FWD Ex saloon vertion Full option Electric carburator model. came with 1500cc 4.5FWD Super saloon vertion Full option Electric carburator model. came with 1500cc 5.5FWD version with full option Super Saloon Velvet interior 1500cc EFI engine which called highest grade on Half light vertion. chk the ad # Full light 5fwd vertions are having a good market than other ones. fuel consumption is between 12-15kmpl. these i have leared when i was hunting for a trad sunny few years back. i may be wrong on some informations. if so pls correct me. Good Luck !!!!!