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So I got a courtesy call from the agent’s customer relations manager today after my online feedback to their survey from the last job. She was all “oh sir I hope your car is working well now after the job”. I mean if there’s a way to make a situ worse, she checked the boxes. So I had to politely say no after which she gaslit me by asking why I didn’t bring the vehicle back to them immediately. Yup, told her I didn’t want to hear more of the, “it’s normal with these new cars. Long live the old!” that I experienced even after taking it on a test ride. She was like, “oh ok sir we look forward to welcoming you again for your next service!”. I’m lost for words.

Your second guess would be correct. Mazda Capella / 626 it is. Quoting Count Blockula from Vavulwatte it would have been "malli suck ekak dennada?" (And its not a bad thing)

Aight Imma say it: the amount of repairs and the cost you end up having to eat sound quite excessive for a 6-year-old Japanese car in all honesty... is she worth all this trouble and cost? There is also the issue of a potential timing belt failure

I was going to go with a brand that has a LEGACY in the rallying circuit. But I realize it's not the same. Next guess is deduct 40 from the number of the beast and you have the model? Maybe he was driving slow cos he was a bit nervous? What if you are driving a hearse and suddenly someone taps your shoulder and says 'malli drop me off here thank you' ?

This sadly is the Honda agent's mentality - they are still living in the EK3/EG8 age - I may have said this before but when you take it to them they are always like this is normal The "Hub" and Sta****d are at two ends of the spectrum. I personally have not been to the 'hub' but my friends have. And from their experience, they are somewhat paranoid . Customer : 'I noticed the oil level has dropped slightly' Hub : 'Your engine is done for replace the Engine. Replace the gearbox and replace the windshield wipers' at the agents Customer: ' My engine oil level is at zero, the engine is overheating and there's smoke coming out of the engine bay' St****d : ' Aiyo that is normal sir, here pour some kerosene into the oil filler' and proceed to throw a bucket of water to cool down the engine. To replace my brake pads and the coolant tank I went to this place in Yakkala who mostly deal with Honda's - I'm generally happy with the little work they did will not mention names as per forum rules.

Putting a side brake-pad materials, quality of the pads, etc...rate of wear is more dependent on driving style than it is on mileage. If you are heavy on the brakes and constant braker, then, irrespective of the mileage, the pads are going to wear off. Having said that I do have to side with @Hyaenidae on this. It does seem like an awful lot of niggles for a 6 year old Honda. Especially with such a low mileage and what seems to be a cared for car as well. I wonder if the non-1000cc Civics are also having the same level of niggles come up (and I mean actual issues and not the whole "known to", "possibly can" situations which every engine on the planet has but actual things that do happen). I suppose it is a case of "gone are the good old days".

Mahindra Cosmo mini bus

Have you performed the Basic diagnosis like Dry Wet Compression Test etc. to determine whether the Engine is actually needs a rebuild?

The problem with Stafford and indeed many agents are they don't follow preventing maintenance when servicing. This is all in the manual. They are content to do an oil change, undercarriage clean up, wash and vacuum and that's pretty much it. Then for example when the transmission gives an issue when fluid hasn't been changed as per the user manual, they condemn the car. The next big issues for these Civics will be the drive belt snapping. I dread to think of the repair cost for those and how the agent will manage it. Ideally these should be changed when approaching the six year mark pro-actively.

That is a nice car. Has the potential to be something really nice. There are places that "customize" lights. Please don't ! They do complete injustice to the car by putting wierd LED lights that work in wierd patterns, etc... It will be really hard...and even expensive...but I would say please use the car as is..collect money and buy actual proper lights and trim bits. Then slowly start restoring the car. These things in good condition go for really high prices now.

IMO I feel it is with the newer cars that more or less all the agents are mentally screwed with and give BS stories and cover ups for everything. Here out my logic.... For older models, like E100 Corollas, EK Civics, and B12-B14 Sunnies, the agents know what to do with them and are equipped to deal with the cars. Partly because they themselves handled the cars (selling them) and therefore got trained and tooled (there would at least be one old grease monkey who was with them from those days). However, with these new models....they simply did not get trained or tooled properly as, on the one hand, they did not deal with the mass models we got down as grey imports. Secondly, the equipment, etc..requires capital that they simply did not have.

Got the rotors resurfaced at St**ford. Somewhat decent improvement, however they didn't bother to check about the main complaint, which was spongy brakes. They gave me some nonsensical lecture about how older cars are better than the new Civics and they don't like the new Civic at all since it has way too many gadgets and people who spend a lot of money on things like this, Benzes, BMW's, etc. just have way too many expectations; apparently the main point of a car is to get from point A to B. Ignored the idiot who told me that and asked him why the Brake Hold was struggling when downhill. He was clueless and said that it's normal and it must be the way the brakes have worn in a particular direction. He went on to say that they only tested it uphill since the function of brake-hold is to prevent the car from slipping backwards. Bugger was full of nonsense. On the flip side, they also spent a day with the car removing the links and checking for any play, which they claimed there wasn't any. If I wanted to change the links regardless, it would be about 54k per wheel. Asked them to place it back as-is. Funny enough, after that the suspension seems to be performing significantly better and isn't wobbly anymore. The only thing is that it still tends to slightly fishtail sideways at the rear when driving at higher speeds over manhole covers, etc. on the road. Decided to take all these into my own hands and give explicit instructions to whichever garage I take the car going forwards, which will be Hy**** H**. Next step: get the brake fluid flushed and replaced since it is dark + there's most likely air bubbles inside. Figured this out since upon opening the reservoir lid, there was a bunch of bubbles that surfaced too. That's most likely causing the spongy brakes. Second, is to get a 3D wheel alignment done (possibly at Tyreb**s.lk) since they came recommended by Hy**** H**. This is to check if anything on the rear is out of place that can cause the minor fishtailing. Shall keep you guys updated!

Got this same model given by my neighbour, he has too many so he gave me one of them. He has replaced the steel pipe with a Flexi horse, I think it is a Brake hose so that allow me to reach narrow places. Ha ha

PMd

Well. When you have no claim bonuses it usually gets applied to lowering your subsequent premiums. So, by making your claims, you might have lost them. However, I doubt your premium would have increased by that much just by losing any bonus discounts. What might have happened is that they reassessed your risk profile and the valuation of your car along with the loss of the bonus discounts. This usually does happen in other parts of the world so I can't see why it wouldn't in SL.

You will probably not get 15KM/L on a normal Internal-combustion petrol car. Maybe in a tiny kei-car but those come with very little rear leg space. If you do mostly weekend outstation driving the best option is to go for a slightly large(ish) Sedan. A corolla 141 will be a safe and solid bet - will do 10-12 KMPL on a long drive. Hybrids make sense for daily drivers but why go through the hassle for a mostly weekend driver. Allions Premios are a bit overpriced but if you can find one in your budget then it's a good choice. Other options - Bluebird Sylhpy G11, Lancer CS3/Maybe an EX. If you must go for a hybrid - The FIT GP1 feels a lot more nippy and fun compared to the Prius. - The Prius is comfier, and has more rear leg space and the rear seats are better - the GP1 has the magic -seats that can be lifted up so they're not the most comfy. But it's a very practical car specially to haul stuff and it has insane interior space for its size. - Things that commonly go wrong in the GP1 are *usually* cheaper and easier to fix than in the Prius. [please focus on the words commonly and usually - I don't want to be sued ] -Prius is better on fuel.

Ok then since no one answered, Its a Honda Integra (Type R) 4th Gen. BTW @iRageis the car still owned by the tea factory owner?

I assume you do a lot of city driving? if my memory serves me correct yours is the sonic-grey one that's there in the office parking lot at Dematagoda? Break pads do wear out relatively soon. I've gone with Brembo for my 2nd set. Also the braking on this model is next level. Maybe a trade-off Well yeah - It's always a matter of choice isn't it? I mean I've had to replace the A/C condenser at just 3 years into ownership (that's more to do with the gas and the local conditions). If we look at the fairly newish models (less than 10 years) all the variants available in Sri Lanka have some sort of niggle - Aquas,Axios,Vezels,Graces,Fits (and the Tiny turbo-engined Euro's.) If you want to have a taste of a newish car with some bells whistles some fancy techie bits and good driving dynamics, (yes the 1L turbo and CVT combo is nothing to write home about but throw this into a winding road , sharp bends and you'll be grinning ear to ear) , is still budget friendlier than a euro to maintain, returns acceptable fuel figures( albeit on octane 95), and doubles up as a very practical family car - the choices are rather limited AFAIK the 1.5 L Variant does not have this belt issue. - the 1.0 engine is a wet belt.

Still love the car, but she’s a gold-digger alright! Ugh yes the dreaded timing belt… hopefully I don’t get that little surprise too. So far the belt was mentioned as good. Has anyone else had their brake pads wear out so quickly though? It’s ridiculous that it only lasts like 3-4 years despite such low mileage. Might’ve had better luck with 3rd party pads than the stock ones, I guess!

Was able to collect my parts from the EMS office today, no hassle the process was pretty straight forward. The customs officer was very helpful and explained the details. Paid a minimum tax and was able to get the parts within a 1 hour.

Guys what is your infortainment wallpaper.. I use this, I think I got it from CivicX site

Look for service records. This model (141) is known for compressor issues around 100k kms Also CVT transmission issues if not properly maintained. Atleast CVT oil should have been changed in every 40k kms Dashboard cracks

Out of the two the comfortable (with available options included in the comparison) and the one with less maintenance cost would be the FIT GP1. However, the Aqua would be a little bit more fuel efficient. The FIT GP1 battery is more reliable than the Aqua's however, be sure to check the Usable Capacity of the hybrid battery before going for it. Anything below 20% means you would need to attend to the battery. Anyway since you are going to buy a car that has been used over a decade, you will need to spend some money on maintenance to get the car into a sound mechanical shape be it the FIT or Aqua. The amount you would need to spend and the things you would need to attend to would depend on how well the previous owner took care of it. So get both of them inspected and if possible get a car with an honest maintenance history. You can choose based on your preference which model to get and look for a good condition specimen as well.

They are really nice cars. The 2015 3008 and the 508 really is above the 06/07 series.Electronics are the main let down tbh. The 2.0 Diesel version is actually very solid. Less issues overall compared to the petrol by a long shot. Owners hang on to them though. Very reliable and efficient on fuel. The 1.6THP is troublesome, but the drive makes up for it. That creamy torque really makes it a blast. Just drove from Kalutara to Kandy,such a pleasure. Ate the hills up no problem. Key is to getting a rectified 1.6THP Also it did 15kmpl on the freeway. 100kmph smooth driving. Your advice and input on Pugs are very much appreciated. After all you were the resident Peugeot guru on AL!!!

Sure as hell looks like a grumpy old man

You're now stimulating the soft spot I had towards 508 but the premature engine wear and tear still keeping me away from that gen of Peugeots. Big mistake by reducing the pot capacity and trying to yank out more power. Also this reminded me of a 607 which only had 16k on odo sometimes back and a guy had jumped in thinking it's a minter since low mileage. ended up fixing almost all the car due to various issues. Personally I don't prefer low mileage cars rather will go for decently driven yet well maintained specimens.

Another price update (508 1.6thp) Engine bottom mounts-35,000 New solenoids and misc on starter motor-18,000. New motor is 100k plus. A/C Blower unit- 50k as told. Will update. Cooling fan- 105k. Got me a mint recon from dubai for 45k. Mine is going through a full mechanical restoration due to being parked for months on end and a rat attack. Almost two months now. So far runs like a dream, Electronics are being looked into atm. Please use a covered garage and never let it sit on rain when possible. Also try to drive these cars as much as possible. Mine drove < 5000kms in 2022 and 800kms in 2023, that did not end well. The more you drive the less it actually goes wrong. Guy I know has a 3008 with 25k thats a real leda goda, another fella with a 100k plus 3008 runs like a biatch. Some parts mentioned were replaced for preventive maintenance.

Agreed not bad at all. The agents are absolute trash. I remember reading that thread of you test driving one. Nice cars but can be finicky if neglected.

Again...I would not say its possible nor would I say you can't. Sorry, really not an answer to your question. If your engine is in good health and you do normal low-intensity runs with the engine coming to proper operating temperature, then yes you would increase the possibility of getting closer to 10K. But the reality is that the quality of the fuel, quality of air being induced into the engine, etc... would also affect this. So, although the oil might suggest 10K and you do low intesity, low stress runs, in reality, this would actually reduce. So...it is all very contextual. The reality is that everyone, from the manufacturers to garages to service stations, gives you a standard recommendation because that would be the safest way to go about it. Otherwise, they would have to come up with 1000 different oil change recommendations, one for each of their customers. So, it is best to figure out what is best for your car by actually studying/observing it.

🤣🤣 🤣🤣 🤣🤣 🤣🤣 🤣🤣 Oh..sorry..that was rude... uhh...no...maintaining popup lights is a pain like you have never imagined Actuators, relays...they are all pretty much out of production and have been so for like decades. Popular models like AE86 Truenos, RX7s, etc...have after market reproductions that cost an arm and a leg and the kidneys of your first born and your first grand child. Even then those who cannot be bothered just convert them in to fixed headlamps. When these go bad you are at the mercy of a good electrician/electrical-wizard to sort it out for you using alternative parts. It's cool to say you have pop-up lights, but they are a pain to maintain and lack practicality. As for the other parts....you are going to have a similar problem with whatever old 80s, 90s or older car you get. Even for cars like 80s Corollas, Sunny,etc..body parts are becoming an issue. The exception are cars like the KE72 DX wagons, Lancer wagons, E100 Corollas etc...where they sold them buy ship loads around the planet and have a large aftermarket parts supply. Obviously the rarer (i.e. sold less number of units by the manufacturer) the car is the harder it will be to find these parts (sadly the Astina, Integra fall into this category). Going back to the pop-up light car...normal body parts are a bit easier to come by than the pop-up light as things like door handles, switches would have been used in other models of the period. Body panels..since most are actual metal you need a good tinkering guy to beat it our and fix it properly. Lights will be a hard to come by item. So no...don't expect to walk in to a speciality store or any body shop to find a stock of parts for these cars. You will have to walk, beg, cry, yell, walk more to find these parts.

I wouldn't say they are worse. But consider this. Toyota's are overpriced in Sri Lanka. If you look at the prices : the same price of a Honda Civic FD4 or an Axela which are around 13-15 years old will only fetch you an Allion that is 20 years old and Yaris/Belta which is a class below the Civic/Axela/Lancer. (Yaris/Belta are budget sedans and if you properly inspect one from each model you'll realize that the Civics/Axela/Lancers are much more refined, have more features and generally a better grade of car than the Yaris/Belta)- with the Axio lineup Toyota created a sub-line-up of the Corolla for Japanese domestic market ( @iRage will have more info on that) so if you do a test drive and spend time with each of these cars you'll figure out that the Toyota's in the same budget, while decent cars are a notch below when it comes to overall refinement. While acknowledging fuel consumption is important in these times do not base a purchase purely based on it - this will leave you disappointed. Your friends at work, your cousins and your uncles will probably tell you that the Allions, Yariss and Axios give magical fuel economy but in reality it differs based on usage, condition of the car, the state of the engine etc.. For instance the Yaris comes with old school auto gearbox as opposed to the CVT on belta- the fuel economy is really not that good. Due to the sentiment of fuel economy and reliability Toyota's tend to be seen as investments hence changing hands frequently- meaning that these cars are usually not really cared for, dressed up and sold. If you do get a good honest Allion by all means go for it but honest Allions/Premios/corollas are like unicorns. Of course None of these cars will give you the fuel economy of your Suzuki Stingray. RE the insight which is a hybrid - if you're ok with hybrids check out the Civic FD3, : A much nicer and more complete car than the insight - and yes it's a hybrid. Left field suggestion : If you can live with the looks Get a 2008/2009 Nissan Tiida for around 4.5 Million max (if you bargain you can get for well below that) invest the remaining 2M in a Fixed Deposit. Even if you get 10% interest rate you'll still get 200,000 in interest per annum - which calcualates to 16,000-17,000 per month that you can use on fuel. (Suggest to redo these numbers - i'm giving these off the top of my head and it's been a long day so my numbers could be wrong)

The idea behind this document is to create a guide to buying a used car in Sri Lanka. This is just my preliminary draft, and if it's useful I hope the experts here will add/edit it, and create a final detailed guide, which maybe could be posted somewhere in autolanka (if they think its useful) Buying a used vehicle in Sri Lanka (This applies to purchase of a used car regardless of the price/age, and applies to all registered and 'reconditioned' vehicles.) 1. tests you can perform: ================ Engine ==== Before starting: - check the engine oil. Is it at the correct level? Yes: OK/Owner topped up No: Owner does not top up, engine burning oil, etc Color of oil - Light brown/colorless - engine is running reasonably good/recent service - black - engine running bad/never serviced Note: diesels tend to have dark/black engine oil After starting Did it start easily? Yes: OK No: problems in engine/battery/starter motor/tune/etc. does the exhaust show visible smoke (white, black, bluish or grey smoke)? this coud indicate engine problems such as oil burning, worn engine etc. -- note: diesels do occationally smoke a bit, especially under acceleration does it maintain operating temperature? - listen to the engine in idle - do you hear clattering, rattling, or any odd sounds? they could indicate various problems ranging from bent valves to broken mounts? note: diesels are somewhat louder than normal gasoline engines Test drive =========== Lets say you decide to go for a test drive.. .. Step out of the vehicle, and ask the owner to get it out of his driveway/car sale etc. As he does this observe the vehicle, and see if it smokes or struggles during the procedure. Look at the place where the vehicle was parked. If there is visible engine oil/coolant, etc this could indicate problems in the vehicle. (water may be visible from the car's A/C, this is normal). Ask the owner to drive you: 1. Along a rough road (so you can test the suspension) 2. On a good road, ask the owner to drive up to at least 56km/h (or whatever local speed limit) so you can see how the vehicle performs at high speed. Turn OFF the radio and A/C and listen to the car for rattles/hums Tip: a hum from front/rear may indicate need to replace wheel bearings (or what our people refer to as razors) - Stop the car and ask the owner to back up a small hill, and observe the car exhaust for smoke, this is a good test of the clutch/etc. Actual test drive: - First make sure the vehicle has insurance and road licence which are valid. Ask to see them. Then test drive the vehicle very carefully. Make sure you have a good flat road and there is very little traffic. Remember its an unfamiliar vehicle and proceed with caution. First, test the clutch and brakes. The clutch should engage neatly before releasing the pedal fully. If it engages very late, it could mean a blown clutch plate. If there are clutch/brake problems, don't drive any further, and ask the owner to resume driving. And ask yourself whether you are sure you want to buy this car, from someone who couldnt even do basic maintenance. Reviewing the owner How the owner behaves during the test drive can give you a clue of how s/he uses the vehicle in real life. For example: - Does he roll down the window and drive (even though there is an A/C) - this may indicate that the A/C rarely worked. - Does he drive like a rally driver (in which case you can buy the car if you are willing to buy an extra engine, transmission and suspension) How has s/he spent on the car? If he has spent a lot on cosmetics while ignoring real existing mechanical problems, then you should probably consider another car. Is s/he straightforward and honest? Does what the owner says match up to what you see? For example, if the owner said the car had 2 owners in total and the log book copy shows 4 owners, then they could be lying about other things, and you should be cautious. Sometimes owners make mistakes, or simply don't know an answer, but overall if the owner appears to be honest and straightforward, that is a positive sign. [Ask Questions As you review the car, ask questions from the owner. If you see anything odd, ask about it. If the owner is honest and straightforward, its a positive sign. Try to gauge how much of what the owner is telling is the truth. A good way to do this is to pretend you don't know something and ask a question. After the test drive ============ After you return to the owners house/car sale, ask the owner to pop the hood and inspect the engine. - check temperature management. The gauge inside the car should be half or less. Aside from the gage, the engine should be reasonably managing temperature and the fans should be working properly. - Carefully tap the radiator cap with the tip of your finger. If it burns your finger off, the temperature management isnt good. Similarly the engine bay should not be boiling hot (unless it's a Nissan ) Physical inspection of vehicle ===================== 1. Visual inspection: simply look at the car - see if the lines are straight. Look at the paint. Uneven areas could indicate repainting. - look at the wheel arches. Look at the brakes. Look under the car (front/rear) If possible, take the car to a service station and inspect the underneath. If this is not possible, try to look under the car and see what is visible at least - (carry a flashlight with you when you go to see the car). - look for rust, damage, etc. - look at the engine compartment. Are there odd wires and do things look as if they have been messed with? Sometimes legitimate mods (e.g. alarm systems, aftermarket headlamps) require new wiring but if you see a mess inside, it probably means the wiring has been messed up by local mechanics in which case you should think carefully whether you really want this car. - (If the vehicle is cold) carefully open the radiator cap - check if it contains coolant, and if there is any signs of oil (could indicate a head leak) Look at the engine. If it has a slight layer of dust its OK. If it is shiny and has a layer of oil that means it has been washed at a service station. I prefer a car which has a normal slightly dusty engine vs one that has been washed and scrubbed to 'look' new. - look for leaks in radiator pipes. (with the engine off) remove the engine oil cover - if you can see nice clean silver metal with perhaps yellow brown color (engine oil) this is a positive sign. (note: diesels do tend to have dark/black engine interior, this refers to gasoline vehicles only). - Look at the fluid levels of the various fluids (power steering, brake fluid, auto transmission if auto) - if they are not up to level it could indicate leaks or careless owner. - if the vehicle is hot you may be able to open the radiator overflow tank (be careful) and check if he uses coolant. Not using coolant indicates: 1. Owner is an idiot 2. Radiator has leak and owner is topping it up with ordinary water. Either case, don't buy the car. 2. Tap test gently tap the body of the car, with a fingernail (dont rap it loudly) as you walk around. Check the hood, front left and right side and back carefully, also doors (as these are the main accident prone areas). Other general ideas: - Ask the owner what maintenance was performed. If he tells you a list of things replaced/repaired, this is usually a good sign and means the owner took some effort to look after car. - check the mileage? Mileage can be modified - but if it corresponds with the appearance of the vehicle then it could be accurate. - ask for receipts particularly for the timing belt/clutch etc HAS THE VEHICLE BEEN SERVICED/WASHED? If the owner was so cheap that he couldn't service the vehicle before he sold it, then do you really want to buy a car from him/her? *Exception*: Sometimes the owner may be actively using the car in which case it may be a bit dusty but all the same he/she should have washed/serviced/detailed the car within a few days of deciding to sell it. Now Consider the actual condition of the vehicle and make a list of all problems you encountered: Scenario 1: vehicle has major problems which can be fixed ===================================== for example: - Clutch plate gone. - brakes not too good. -minor suspension probs (e.g. weak shocks). - minor engine probs (e.g. poor tune up). Indicates that the seller was a cheap idiot (or typical local) Verdict: Buy with caution, knowing there could be other existing problems, and repair BEFORE YOU DRIVE said vehicle. Scenario 2: Vehicle has minor problems which can be fixed later ========================================= - A/C not running cold enough. - Minor dings, dents, scratches. - Minor cosmetic issues. Verdict: Buy the car, but set aside money to fix those problems later on. Scenario 3: Vehicle has major problems which can't be fixed easily =========================================== - Chassis problems (cracks/bent chassis) - major engine problems (e.g. grey/white/black smoke, burning oil, head gasket leaks) - major suspension/mechanical problems - gearbox problems which would necessitate replacing gear box... so on. Verdict: don't buy the car, unless you own a garage, have a million to spare, or are plain crazy. Other costs Aside from the above, there are a number of things you usually have to do, when purchasing ANY used car. These usually include: - Insurance & road licence. - 4 tires. - full service/oil change/air filter etc. - brake pads/etc - New battery (if existing battery not too good). - Timing belt (if close to 100k km's or multiples of that). Many people will say they replaced the belt, they could be lying. It's easier to spend 10k and replace it than to undergo a broken belt and engine rebuild. If they have replaced the belt, you can get a good garage to visually inspect it. signs of a good vehicle: - Vehicle is clean. (As in, the owner has washed, cleaned, and serviced it.) - is in good mechanical condition (good engine, transmission, suspension, brakes, body) - owner has focused on maintaining the mechanical condition of the vehicle - Vehicle has been maintained properly and scheduled maintenance has been done, e.g. brakes, clutch, timing, etc have been replaced at the proper intervals as necessary. - owner cares about vehicle, services regularly, engine oil is not dirty - owner is upfront and honest about any flaws. - owner uses a good garage for maintenance, and used original/quality components Suggestion 1: To all the experts here, can you please add your comments/suggestions tips on buying a used car. Suggestion 2: Would it be possible for Autolanka readers/Admins to set up a car pricing guide? This could be something updated regularly to show average true market values (like edmunds.com) and be useful to people looking to purchase a car. If any Autolanka readers have suggestions on what they check when buying a used car, please add them here. Update: Top gear have some excellent tips here:

1. It is illegal to use a car on open papers...pure and simple...there is no reason for anyone to genuinely use a car on open papers. IMO a person using/selling a car on open papers is either deceitful or stupid and is doing it to keep the number of owners on the registration book low just so that the market value does not drop (fyi...at the end of the day number of owners of a car has nothing to do with anything..what matters is the condition of the car then and there...knowing how cheap our car owning public is the more owners would imply higher risk of bad maintenance..but that can happen even with just one or two cheap owners) 2. You have no idea if the person selling the car is actually the owner of the car and if he/she is actually authorized or genuinely selling it. A majority of Sri Lankans are some of the most dishonest people on the planet (especially when it comes to cars). So you cannot trust it. 3. You have no idea who or how many past ownes the car has had and what it has been used for and who has done what for that...it might have gone through 50 owners for all you know been used as a get away car in major crimes.A majority of Sri Lankans are some of the most dishonest people on the planet (especially when it comes to cars). So you cannot trust it. If you must buy a car that is on open papers...get the seller to first transfer it in to his name and then sell it to you (one day service for him and then transfer it to yourself after a grace period. This way any pending tax and other liabilities will fall on him before you take over the car. Also, if the car is found to be having any legal issues you can show that you legitimately bought the car and your liability would be limited. Due to operating limits thanks to covid this might not be possible anymore as I hear they are rather picky about one day transfers. Eitherway, it will take time. Make sure all the documentation is legit...service records, revenue/luxury license payments, eco test reports, etc...A majority of Sri Lankans are some of the most dishonest people on the planet (especially when it comes to cars). So you cannot trust any of it...people even forge service records now.

My sincere advice to you is to stay away from baic x25 i own one and it comes with so many issues from day one 1) fuel efficiency within city is 5.5 km per liter ( not exaggerating) micro is not bothered to rectify this for me 2) no warrenty even manufacturer warranty for cheap tyres which went flat twice and micro never bothered to replace for me 3) there was a deep scratch in the body on the day I bought it but gt it painted free 4) so much rattling noises from dash board and back . Addressed this issue 3 times but not resolved 5) no spare parts for steering 6) very slow pickup for a 1500 l engine and not easy to overtake 7) wheel disc were all rusted and got them all painted for free 8)as a member in this group said if you don't know much about mechanics of car then they try to fool you by sayin 5 km perlitre is normal until the warrenty and free service period ends 9)I spoke to another owner whose AC was not working 10) vehicle is not sound Proof and not air tight either as foul smell from outside enters the vehicle as you pass by any fountain or carbage areas All in all stay away from baic x25 42.5 lake would go down the drain if you spend in this vehicle as the second hand market is also low even though it looks good in appearance do not buy baic x25

carboy2011 !! yes, here we can see few versions of TRAD sunny. 1.Half light version 2.Full ight version Half light version 1.4FWD version with semi optioin ( A/C P/S ) black carburator model. came with 1300cc engine 2.5FWD version with full option Ex Saloon 1500CC carburator model. 3.5FWD version with full option Ex SaloonGII vertion 4.5FWD version with full option Super Saloon 5.5FWD version with full option Super Saloon Velvet interior 1500cc EFI engine which called highest grade on Half light vertion. Full Light Version 1.4FWD version with semi optioin ( A/C P/S ) black carburator model. came with 1300cc engine (B12) 2.5FWD version with semi optioin ( A/C P/S ) Electric carburator model. came with 1500cc engine (a) one came with semi option luxary interior (FB12) ( other one came with normal interior ( may be B12) 3.5FWD Ex saloon vertion Full option Electric carburator model. came with 1500cc 4.5FWD Super saloon vertion Full option Electric carburator model. came with 1500cc 5.5FWD version with full option Super Saloon Velvet interior 1500cc EFI engine which called highest grade on Half light vertion. chk the ad # Full light 5fwd vertions are having a good market than other ones. fuel consumption is between 12-15kmpl. these i have leared when i was hunting for a trad sunny few years back. i may be wrong on some informations. if so pls correct me. Good Luck !!!!!

Hi, Finally I managed to sort out my gear shift problem. 1st checked dropping resistor resistance - it was within acceptable limits ( 10~15 ohm as per service manual ) - so it's not that ( refer 1.pdf) Then checked Line pressure solenoid voltages / resistance ( 1.pdf ) - it was with in acceptable limits ( but this is after 1 ~2 hrs drive with heated ATF ) Then replaced TCU with similar model TCU ( G10 & Y11 has same TCU since both has QG15DE engine ) - but still the grear shift prob was there... So final option was to remove Control Valve Assembly in the gear box & check the Line Pressure Solenoid !!!! ( refer 2 .pdf & 3 .pdf ) Once control valve assembly is dismantled can take the solenoid valve assembly out. ( refer Page 3, 1st pic in 3 .pdf ) When the line pressue solenoid resistance was checked in dismantled form ( at that time solenoid was in normal room temp - not heated ) it was showing abnormal resistance figure...!!!! - problem diagnosed - issue was faulty line pressure solenoid .. replaced with recon one. Now no issue ... back to normal....!!!! hope this might be useful for you all. Thanks 1 AT_line pressure solenoid testing.pdf 2 Removing Control Valve Assembly.pdf 3 Control Valve Assembly Solenoids Removal.pdf