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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/13/2019 in Posts

  1. 4 points
    Just wanted to share my experience with vibration on my Vitz 2007, which seems to be very common with most 1000cc models. Got the car in 2010 directly from Japan with 42k odo reading. It's pretty much the only car i've driven except a Honda Fit, and BMW hatchback, and it's hands down the most easiest one to drive! Was really happy with it until the vibration started around 6 months on and i was only getting around 8kms/ltr. At first most people i talked to said that it was normal for a 3 cylinder and common in Vitz so just ignore it and not worry about it. But i knew it wasn't normal because i didn't experience it for 6 months! I just wanted to fix any problem before it got worse. But i was a first time car owner and driver so nobody really took me seriously and since I wasn't the owner (gift from dad) i really didn't have much say about it, so i just ignored it for a few years. Then it got worse... mostly when A/C on, on hot days, on idle at stops (it kinda goes crazy!...) But by this time i had money on my hands so i decided to take it to the most reliable place possible, Toyota Lanka... Oh boy was I wrong!!! ๐Ÿ˜ Those idiots looked at it and said that a full tune up and new spark plugs should solve the problem. Having no idea about any of that stuff i just went ahead with it but the vibration was still there! Fought with those idiots and returned the spark plugs for full refund! But i was no back to square one...๐Ÿ˜ž So over the years i tried several different places but nobody could solve the problem permanently... at best i could get rid of the vibration for about 3 months but even then i couldn't isolate what the problem was. After trial and error it seemed to come down to either all or one of the following: proper tune ups, engine mounts, injector cleaning, maf sensor cleaning, throttle body cleaning. Never really was able to isolate to any one these issues because i never made the time to do only one of them at a time... Fast forward to 2019, 88k on the odo (42k over 9yrs), getting closer to 7+kms/ltr, vibration at it's worst, shocks dead (can feel metal clanking noises on bumps), less pulling power. Yes I know i should have sold the damn thing by now ๐Ÿ˜… but for the cash... Heard about A**o F***e which is close to where i live, and i knew it was gonna be expensive but after seeing all the racing cars they were working on figured they might know what they were doing so i decided to give it a go. I went in and have been never so freaking happy that they actually figured out what was wrong with the vibration! The tech did a simple test by hoisting the engine on a jack so the weight was off the mounts and it was running smooth! So long story short we changed shocks and mounts, then decided to do an engine gasket overhaul and service the head because the car was woefully under-performing by now as well, and i was also wary of what kind of damage the vibration might have done. Also ended up replacing piston rings, main+thrust+bigend bearings, and cleaned out sludge buildup, among other repairs. The owner (and racer!), Sajaad Zuhair, is a great guy and a good businessman, just talking to him made me want get all this work done... ๐Ÿ˜… I've only driven very conservatively within Colombo for 3 days for 75km so far and i have to say that so far, God bless, the vibration is gone. There were even a few moments when i didn't even realize the engine was on! ๐Ÿ˜ข Don't get me wrong, there is still some vibration in the engine but i believe that's whats normal for a 3 cylinder, not when it used to shake the entire freaking car! As for performance, well i don't really expect much with this engine but to gauge effectively i'll have to wait for a hot day. Here's a few things i learnt from the whole experience: * Don't drive right away on a cold start! Always give it about a minute. * Don't wait for a year to change engine oil... even if you don't drive much (4700km avg a yr in my case) change in 6 months or less (this may vary with type of oil, climate, etc) * Don't go fast on bumps and potholes just because your shocks are doing an awesome job and you don't feel it! You are just wearing out your shocks faster... * Don't let an idiot makabaas poke your gel mount with an effing screwdriver!!! ๐Ÿคฌ * Don't take the risk with a makabaas if you plan to use the car for a long time! Heck even if you are gonna sell it, don't be a cheapskate and earn the buyer's curse! * If you can't afford to get your work done at any reputable and responsible garage, then sell the car use public transport until you save up some money... ๐Ÿ˜…
  2. 4 points
    [1] Con######## [2] Full [3] 89 K (with Terrorism cover added in April) for a car worth 6M [4] Dear lord I do not want to find out [5] Refer [4]
  3. 3 points
    Hey welcome to the forum. As an ex- GP1 owner I can say it really is a nice car and you get a LOT for what you pay...it has practical written all over it - economical to run as well. at 2.7 it's a steal you can't get that feature set, the practicality for that price - even if you do spend money and fix the oil burn issue. I sometimes still miss my old car BUT this is what's important - you seem to be a car guy and this sort of matters - drive what you like.The FD1 is a different class of car . You are going to enjoy driving this (not that the GP1 is boring to drive ) So here's the thing - why don't you go see both cars for a while try to hitch a good FD1 - keep the GP1 as a backup option if you fail to find a good FD1....give the civic the priority: it's a matter of smiles per liter vs miles per liter. Happy Hunting.
  4. 3 points
  5. 3 points
    and I am sure there would have been a herd of cows who were going "patta" and then seriously thinking of doing it....I once saw an old Lancer (tube light) in a garage where the suspension had been completely screwed. The owner had cut the springs to make it lower and then welded a metal part back on as the cut was too much and he wanted to raise it back
  6. 2 points
    First post on this forum and it had to be on this legendary thread. As a total car noob, it was only since the last few days, I was happily looking up everything DFSK related until this really opened my eyes not only to the failed C-NCAP safety ratings but also the second rate marketing tactics of whoever that was. I am glad I didn't take out that loan to spend on the DFSK which seemed like a good fit for the SUV dream that could likely never be achieved. May be someday later. For now I guess I will go back to concentrating on the Civic. Thanks to the folks who posted some seriously valuable input here.
  7. 2 points
    I tried and failed to get so much as a call back from Future Automobiles (Softlogic) on query!
  8. 2 points
    Don't forget that the new agents for Hyundai are ABANS Anyone who has every bought an appliance from them knows how pitiful their customer service is so one can only imagine what it will be like when that lot try to run a car agency!
  9. 2 points
  10. 2 points
    I hear what you guys are saying @Avante & @Kush but Fords aren't as scary as people make them out to be - they really aren't Compared to most other European cars i'd argue that they are far more reliable and with models like the Fiesta offer the benefit of parts interchangeability with the Mazada Demio/2/3 of the same era
  11. 2 points
    @Devinda_Z...see ? Another case. Again..thanks for sharing. Is it okay if we merge the two threads you created for you Vitz ? I believe the previous thread and this one together might make more sense ? Again....for the mileage of the car you would not expect it to have such a lot of repairs of that nature. Some of us have been going on a rant the last few weeks/months about how user MUST replace parts before they completely wear out and carry out preemptive maintenance on time. Eg. a 100K or 10year scheduled maintenance work list (for some cars) might include replacing of gasket, etc....and checking the bushes and and replace if needed at a 5 or 7 year mark....this way you won't be dumping a whole lot of cash in one go but spread it out over a period; however the biggest benefit is you wouldn't be creating more problems in your car that you would need to spend money and fix later on. If you had changed your oil at a regular interval, then to be honest I don't think you would have had to replace things like piston rings and bearings in your engine. Find yourself a reputed garage...I usually do not try to recommend any because the experience once has with these garages depends on one's personality as well. Then come up with a proper routine and do not cut corners. You can be economically sensible and not cut corners.
  12. 2 points
    ๐Ÿคฆโ€โ™‚๏ธ dude puts his email address just like that... I'm willing to bet his Car Would be a 2007 or 2008 Premio with a number like KP-5388
  13. 2 points
    Pretty sure I saw that post and responded as well. He's basically gone with alloys that have a much lower offset than they should. I gave up finally, because no one knew what the heck offset was and why it mattered. The closest they knew was that "boku allow weels" cause this. ๐Ÿ™„ I hope whoever replied with this photo was being sarcastic. Won't be surprised if it wasn't though. As for the photo, I think I've seen this years ago and I'm pretty sure this is not something local.
  14. 2 points
    Yes, that is Mitsubishi Tedia. I just gooled Tredia and what I found??? ๐Ÿ˜ฎ Never heard Mitsubsihi Manual Gear System with two levers. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_Super_Shift_transmission
  15. 2 points
    Premium is a bit high, but impressive service
  16. 2 points
    Their charges seem very reasonable, I have a 4-year NCB with c******o, yours is cheaper even then
  17. 2 points
    Coop was the cheapest option I was able to find.
  18. 2 points
    Mine 1. Coop insurance 2. Full 3. 68k for lancer ex I will leave 4 & 5 for someone with such experience to answer.
  19. 2 points
    Honestly I think the price you have offered is not fair, be respectful when approaching a deal, do not lowball, after all it was the first owners pride and joy and he paid above 5 mil for it, doesnt mean you have to buy it at a loss, But don't low ball, try to make a quick buck and fall into the current perishing society in this country, if it isn't in your price bracket, move on If you can't handle the repairs, go find a better car Overall it's not a wise decision to touch an old hybrid car. It's a great car but the hybrid system is aging
  20. 1 point
    uhh....dude...that is harsh usage 42K in Japan in 3 years is a lot but that doesn't constitute it being bad....those things run forever....and within a 5 year period the services are done by the dealer in Japan anyway where it gets an annual check up so the car would have been good.
  21. 1 point
    Get a compression test done from a reputable place. That should tell you whether there's engine wear. Crank oil seals and tappet covers anyway need replacement every few years. If you are going for an engine repair, you can get those done at the same time. A petrol engine wouldn't wear out at 145000km, but a 2001 car having done just 145000km is very unlikely. Most probably the odometer is clocked.
  22. 1 point
    Its just a good old jap hatch with a bit more space than usual...nothing expensive the CVT issue was due to people not doing the oil changes in a timely manner. http://rayazmuthalif.wordpress.com/2008/07/08/how-to-avoid-cvt-gearbox-failures-in-honda-city-fit-jazz-a-sri-lankan-perspective/ A friend of mine owns one...actually she's been driving it for ages now and boy she meets with an accident at least once a month and her usage pattern...is well lets just say she doesn't maintain it well and that thing still keeps running.
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    I would personally stay away from the 3008. The car is still new, so we cannot guess how it would held up against SL weather. Also the Peugeots are famous for not-being-reliable. But design wise Peugeot wins. Montero would be the safest bet, because the 2013-2014 models have been here since 2006 with being subjected to minor changes. Another fact is that it is built to last. I personally donโ€™t like the interior designs and materials used(too plasticy and the interior is not plush when compared with something like a prado). But I would held up well against a lot of abuse for a long time. The engines and gearboxes have been here for decades so maintaining one in any place around SL would not be a problem.
  25. 1 point
    Good that they are actually inspecting the vehicle now and trying to establish the process. Its unfortunate that the process is not efficient (...and questionably effective).
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