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  1. We ended up purchasing an MT FD1! Ik it’s been ages since I made this post, I got busy with a bunch of things in between and even when I got to searching for vehicles, I was just being too picky. First I was sorta paranoid and considered curtain airbags to be crucial if I get t-boned or smth, which was asking for too much considering most vehicles which fit the other criteria I needed. And I think I missed some really good vehicles which were in some faraway provinces just by being too late, by waiting until my dad gets here from Jaffna to go check em out. Later on I did stop being picky and did learn to go check em out asap if I’m interested. I did go and check out a Primera and 406. As much as defensive driving is the biggest key to being safe, I still felt like having dual airbags gave me some sense of security, so that removed most good BN Primeras off the list. The one I checked ended up having loads of issues with a high price already, and I felt like I’d be better off going for something more expensive to begin with. Got a Greasemonkey report done on that too. Did check a 406 executive too with an uncle of mine, and even though I did see some minor red flags here and there was thinking that it’s normal to find those in a car of that age and usage. Was seriously considering it for purchase, but did want a mechanical check up done. I’ve been in touch with Mr Aruna from Throve recently while trying to resolve an engine oil leak on dad’s 508. C**M**t was trying to rip us off at every turn and was quoting for some insanely expensive repairs (not to mention them having created a bunch of problems in the car themselves earlier, which is why we stopped going there from a couple years back for services), and D*m* where we have been giving it for services since then didn't have the necessary brand specific parts required, so Throve it was. Fortunately it wasn’t a big deal according to Mr Aruna so we’ve been managing with top-ups for now. Anyways he let us know after checking the number plate that the 406 had been involved in a major accident, and even though he repaired it, he wouldn’t advise going for it. I was bummed I couldn’t go for it, but then this FD1 got listed the same night we were informed so about the 406. Didn’t waste any time at all in going to inspect it, so went the next day and got a Greasemonkey inspection done too. Ideally would’ve preferred to get one done at Staf***d too but the owner wasn’t coming to Colombo anytime soon. The Greasemonkey report seemed to be pretty fine as well. The owner was someone who dealt with FDs frequently too and was a petrol head, so I was reassured in some way cuz of that as well. Ofc there were some issues here and there but one can’t expect a used car to be completely problem free ig. So we decided to go ahead with the purchase. Just got it home yesterday, took it out a couple of times afterwards but I’m still waiting to get the legalities and basic maintenance & issues sorted out before using it frequently. I’m still have quite a bit to go in mastering driving a manual, but hoping it’ll work out with experience. All in all I’m pretty happy with it, will keep y’all updated! Thanks a lot to @matroska, @AVANTE & everyone else who replied to this post, really helped a lot! Edit: It’s mechanically stock btw, but has a few cosmetic modifications. I still think it looks great and not over the top, but that’s just me ig. The front body kit/ lip is proving to be a bit of a hassle while exiting a road nearby, but the kit is all good other than that!
    7 points
  2. When are you going to realize that the only chics you are going pick with cars like these are dudes with wigs ? <If you've seen the movie you will understand the reference > Now..a blinged out Akua, Pirius (GSpots is better) or a Benz...that is a different story.
    6 points
  3. This one guy on the forum pushed me away from reliable Audi's, to extremely terrifying Peugeot's. Now the man is trying to buy a March k11 and retire from the scene. And the scumbag is offering a 406 executive before he leaves. Must be an NGO fella, trying to ruin a hela yakka-putha in Kadugannawa who just wants to drive a reliable car for once. You shall not have yo way mister. * inbox price please*
    6 points
  4. ...and in the blink of an eye 3 years have gone by. It only occurred to me/us when the dealer called up to remind us of the upcoming shaken inspection and tax payment and to inquire what I wanted to do with the car loan. So off to inspection it went and decided to totally pay off the car. So now she is totally mine At the 3 year mark I have put 10,xxxkms on it and each one of those kms have been more smile worthier than the other. Interestingly as the engine broke in the car became more lively as the engine was way more rev happy. In 2022 GR Garage started a personalization program called GR Personal Selection. The program offered owners the chance to take the car for a track day, drive it and tune the car according to their own driving style. This included a software upgrade which bumped up torque to 390Nm (an increase of 20Nm from the stock 370), adjustments to steering weight, throttle response and AWD torque split. Unfortunately, the track days didn't work out with my schedule so got it tuned to some presets that were offered. So now the car has 390Nm of torque, heavier steering and high throttle response. I didn't do anything with the torque split of the AWD system as I felt the changes introduced a bit of understeer which I didn't like. The upgrades have made the car a lot easier to drive. So much so my wife, who always made the car leap from stand still or jerk when accelerating and shifting gears, found it a lot easier to drive than before. I bought the GR Yaris completely out of impulse. The original plan was to buy a standard Yaris with a MT until the GR Corolla was released. Thus, once the GR Corolla was released in Japan I had to go try it out and put my name down for one. The GR Corolla was a nice car. It is a lot easier to drive. The two rear doors make the car a lot more practical. The car does have a larger cargo area, however the usable space is not that much larger than the GR Yaris. The best thing about the GR Corolla is the engine improvements. The power delivery is much smoother and the engine is more responsive (the updated engine is going to be offered in the facelifted GR Yaris). Performance wise, although the GRC has more power, you cannot not actually feel it due to the added weight. Track runs have shown both cars to be equal in things like 0-100 times, etc...the main difference seems to be in terms of handling. The consensus seems to be that the GRY is better for rallying and B-roads (due to the shorter wheelbase) and the GRC is better for track use. Which brings me to what I did not like in the GRC. The weight...and the longer wheelbase. The GRC feels less nimble and playful than the GRY. Albeit...straight line, flat-out..the GRC is a lot more stable. Which I support is in line with the above mentioned consensus. So, after a lot of driving around in the GRC and a track day with the GRC and a bunch of other GR cars, I decided to stick with the GR Yaris (I was hoping to keep the GRY and buy the GRC as a second family car for its practicality. Wife insisted I had to trade in the GRY). Then there was the whole purchase method for the GRC. The cars were offered only through lottery with each round of lottery having only 550 cars (Toyota closed its 2nd lottery a few months ago and the next one is supposed to come up in a few months). To give you an idea of how crazy the lottery is....I went to the dealership/GR Garage to apply for the lottery the morning after the lottery started (1.00pm prev day). The system already showed 5000+ lottery applications. The low chances of actually winning the lottery reaffirmed my decision to hold on to the GRY. The GR Garage is a total car person's den. It has two racing sims, a library with car books, mini cars...and always has a selection of fun cars. In this instance they had their (Toyota Corolla dealership's) GRMN Yaris and GR Corolla Morizo edition apart from the white one in the previous pic). Now..the second moment of temptation.. I was so mad with Toyota that I went and ordered a Civic Type R. Now that was a very refined car. FWD and wonderfully balanced. Interior was well appointed. The adaptive suspension was quite good. The car came in at 4.9mil yen fully loaded (compared to the GRC's price of 5.8mil) and the car made you feel special for all that money you spent on it. At the time of placing the order the delivery period was 4 years. To my good fortune, Honda called last December and said I could have mine in April 2024 if I still wanted it. So... am I getting a Civic Type R in April ? I suppose we will have to wait and see. For now..life goes on with the GRY .... Yes...we still have the old Corolla. She turns 25 this year and has 52,000km. Still runs strong and along with her shaken inspection next week I will be replacing some oil seals (for good measure as some are 25 years old and some 10). Other than that I replaced two engine mounts and replaced the clutch and pressure plates about 2 years ago Its amazing how small the Corolla wagon is compared to the GRY. The day Toyota was crazy enough to ask a bunch of us to drive their cars The blue Supra was a manual and LOVED it ! If I could have afforded it that would be a car I would give up the GRY for in less than a heart beat. The pure grunt and glorious sound of a V8 was mesmerizing. Now....about that family car I wanted until a new toy comes around. Because the chances of getting a GRC was so low...the dealership managed to sell us a facelifted Corolla Touring ! Our/my first Hybrid car. The facelift has some exterior/interior design improvements, but the main change is the hybrid system. It now uses a 5th gen HSD mated to a 1.8L engine. Has a total combined output of about 137? hp and tons of torque thanks to an updated control unit and lighter batteries (so it has more power than the pre-facelift model and weighs less). It is interesting how the system handles the charge/discharge. The car does not let the battery charge up to a 100%. Only time it does is when driving long distances on the highway or going up and and down hills. At such times it just starts cruising on EV mode. Its biggest let down is the eCVT and has a little bit space than the old Corolla wagon...but everything else is pretty sweet. All in-all the (temporary ?) purchase of the Corolla Touring worked out quite well considering some unexpected life changes.
    5 points
  5. Well....look at it this way....most of the cars that are for sale in SL have done as much as 200,000 or many times more although they all show mileages less than 75,000. You have the luxury of knowing that the car has actually done more than 200,000. To be honest...200,000 is not that high a mileage for a properly maintained car. Parts wear and tear and at 200,000km there are certain pre-emptive maintenance work that should have happened until now and ones that you will have to do under your ownership. As long as all this maintenance work has been done properly (using proper parts) and regular servicing done, then the car will keep running. If substandard parts have been used or short-cuts have been taken then obviously the car will give issues as you keep using it. If any of these maintenance work has not been done then you will have to do the past work yourself (pretty much do a restoration) and the cost of that should be reflected in the vehicle's depreciation. Apart from that, if the car has been used harshly then the body and interior components can potentially show its age and look worn out. So whether it is worth buying it or not depends on the price and the condition of the car and what other options are out there. Remember....a 200,000km Sorento with a proper service history and in decent condition might actually be better than a Sorento with 50,000km with no service history but looks extremely shiny.
    5 points
  6. Aight Imma say it: the amount of repairs and the cost you end up having to eat sound quite excessive for a 6-year-old Japanese car in all honesty... is she worth all this trouble and cost? There is also the issue of a potential timing belt failure
    4 points
  7. Happy New Year 2024 to all the amazing members of AutoLanka Forum! Here's to another year of horsepower, torque, and automotive passion. May the Sri Lankan economy prosper and be a fantastic year for motor enthusiasts! #NewYear2024 #AutoLanka #ALForum Many thanks to our Top Contributors, Senior Members, and the rest of the members for their valuable contributions in keeping the forum alive and kicking throughout the year! Please join us in welcoming fellow members @matroska and @Gummybr to the prestigious Top Contributor group! A special shout-out to @iRage who holds the top position in the new AL Forum ranking system! On behalf of AutoLanka, I truly thank all of you guys for dedicating your valuable time to advise and contribute to fellow AL members who come here seeking expert motoring advice. Further we may need to appoint new moderators to combat the ever-increasing spam bots who are invading our forums from time to time. So, feel free to drop me a PM if you are willing to become a voluntary moderator. Thank you!
    4 points
  8. Happy new year Gentlemen ❤️ May you find the courage to drive to the edge and be blessed with the fortune to never overshoot it. Drive safe ! Its been a pleasure to be talking cars with you all yet another year. Okay..about the above pic. My in-laws' place has this mid-sides cherry-blossom tree with widely spread-out branches. Its about 45 years old...looks gorgeous when in full bloom. I've been scared of the tree scratching my car forever. Now I know exactly when to stop and it has become a case of live and let live between the car and the tree
    4 points
  9. Pretty sure this is @PreseaLover s handiwork while shuttling between Sweden and Germany.... trying to take revenge on the buyyas who did him injustice during his 90's shitbox hunt.
    4 points
  10. 1. When replacing things like ball joints, suspension bushes, always try to replace both sides (or depending on the part, all four). If one has worn out, then it is only a matter of time before the other one wears out and replacement as well. Manufacturers recommend this as well. It might seem unnecessary but in the long run it is easier for the user and makes sure that there is some equilibrium in the wear and tear (you can easily forget to replace the unreplaced component, or you might not even replace it until it is broken, etc...). Also...my experience has been that when you usually go to a garage that recommends you to focus on one side or just looks in to a small part of an issue, they are not that good and the issue does not get fixed. All they do is anything required to get rid of the symptoms. They want you out of the garage as soon as possible so they can get another car in. So, please go to a proper garage who is willing to spend time in fixing your car. This might seem expensive but in the long run it turns out to be the same as the bad garage or even cheaper. 2. Well....yes your next step should be to inspect the steering system, but I can't figure out what could make a clanging sound you are describing in the steering system. You also might want to look in to things like back-plates of the brakes (could be slightly bent at the edge or something and is rubbing against something ?), check caliper pins and any other retaining pieces. How are the axles in your car ? Could be the razors on their way out. Are the CV joints okay <before the tuck-tuck grind there sometimes can be a slight knocking noise,someone could have replaced the boots but that doesnt mean the joints themselves are not spoilt>?
    4 points
  11. You mean the cost of spares or the price of the car? Spares are rather expensive but are available. The model is fairly common so as with any other 'common' car in Sri Lanka there is 'demand' so prices that went up post 2020 have come down but still are relatively high. It's an essential part of the "Jeewithaya Jayagath Millenial" starter pack. The FK Civic is in sync with such indicators of success such as Tattooed Gym Arms, Long Beards, Slim-fit t-shirts, shades, fossil watches, iPhone 13,JBL's and Chicks with straightened hair with a few tinted strands called Sandamali but going on insta as 'itsMeSandz' It appears along side defenders in the many 'inspirational quotes' on Social media 'Amme mama jeewithaya dinna' 'Kawadahari mahansi weyan' 'Issaraha peliye aya board eka dakiddi pitipasse peliya sir ge kalisama dakka' stuff like that. It's the go to car for Sinhala rap music videos. The annual meetups for the particular model are graced by celebrities (read chicks who appear in music videos) Wena mona kathada fiat bro - oyath oya Perodua eka wikunala ganna civic ekak bro.
    4 points
  12. Looks like I seem to have taken over the title to the only active member with Peugeots. Honourable mention @AVANTE. Hopefully did not miss anyone else. Peugeot offers good value for money and are loaded with toys. but regular maintenance is required and sometimes can be pricey. Very nice to drive safe cars. Not for faint hearted as these do like to throw issues. Mostly electronic issues, which turn out to be easy cheap fixes. but time and expertise is required. NOT A REPLACEMENT FOR A 121/ALLION OWNER LOOKING TO GET "PRESTIGE" ON A BUDGET. SORRY Since I'm bored, I decided to make a comprehensive study on the French fry AKA Peugeot. Covering Peugeots from the 90s to current models. Mainly talked about are 206,406,407,508,3008,5008 as these are common cars for us. Let's start with the Negatives first. Posting in table format for easy reference. PRICES ARE IN LKR AND BASED ON SRI LANKAN RATES AT THE MOMENT. WILL BE CHEAPER OVERSEAS. I will make edits or changes with time if required. I do not take responsibility on anything and claim to be an expert. Compiled from experience and help from Peugeot Technicians. Some of these negatives apply to all Euros and even some modern Japs. Negatives Fixes and avoidance guide Average cost 1 Electronics are questionable Biggest let down. Come to think of it, All euro cars have rubbish electronics. Will leave you stranded more than once if you don't rectify asap. had to learn the hard way. At least the wires don't melt like my Alfa 156. tops at around 100k 2 Complex suspension Good handling and comfy. But like all euros they are expensive and complex. Ride smooth. Slow down for pot holes/bumps. 407 had some fancy suspension and was known to wear out faster. 150k to 500k 3 Interior dislikes hot climate Get good quality tinted(50K) done. Use a windscreen shade when parked. Avoid parking under direct sunlight for extended periods. Replacement parts are actually very cheap. Unlike bmw spares, that cost the sky and melt if you even stare too hard. 50k 4 parts are expensive depending on the location and accessibility In Sri Lanka parts are often more costly and bit low in stock. Malaysia & Dubai stock for cheap. Ali Express.com has OEM parts for cheap with shipping to Sri Lanka. 5 Needs specialised technicians Like all euro cars. Everyday bush mechanics do more harm than good. Company is subpar in Sri Lanka. Prices can be a hit or miss from them. 6 Engines from BMW MINI (Prince THP) are troublesome Fun and very rev happy. sounds good. can do anything from 4kmpl to 15kmpl depending on the driver. Best avoided. If buying. Make sure engine has been overhauled with the corrected parts. HP fuel pump/injectors are known to fail also. Injectors-35k. HP pump-250k. Overhaul cost-400k plus 7 AL4 gearboxes are troublesome. Solenoids are known to fail. Not too hard a fix. Expertise needed. Regular preventive maintenance is key to no issues. 50k 8 Paint can be hit or miss Paint can fade/bubble over time. Rust is also sometimes found. Garage usage is advisable. Company rates are ok. But needs to be micromanaged 16k to 400k 9 Periodic timely maintenance is a must (not a negative, but Lankans think it is) Maintenance must be done on time. Cannot leave behind for later. Esp 5w30 Oil is expensive in Sri Lanka for unfathomable reason. Older cars can use regular synthetic oil and full service cost is on par with japs. Filters are cheap and plentiful. Oil can be bought cheaper overseas. 10k-175k for full service in Sri Lanka Includes gear/brake/coolant fluid change 10 3rd party spare are not common Cheap non oem parts are hard to find and easily perishable. Advice not to use non oem parts. 11 1.2 pure tech engines issues Powerful and fun. Sound good. Will be worn out faster because turbo & small engine works harder than higher capacity engine. This is relevant to all small turbo engines from any manufacturer. Will need overhaul by 200k. ALSO SOME ENGINES HAD TO BE OVERHAULED AROUND 30K DUE TO DESIGN FAULT. DONE FREE AT AGENT UNDER WARRANTY. MAKE SURE THIS WAS DONE BEFORE PURCHASE. 500K UPWARDS 12 3008/5008 Power steering rack Was changed free at agent under warranty. Was partly due to bad driving/roads. CHECK BEFORE PURCHASE 250k upwards RUNNING REPAIRS AND SUCH. Very similar in price to other brands. THIS TABLE IS ACTUALLY FOR 1ST TIME PEUGEOT BUYERS. PRICES ARE NOT SCARY AS THEY SAY. WILL ALSO HELP 206,406,407 OWNERS NO DOUBT. Intervals have been posted after getting recommendations from several experts who work on PEUGEOT. Intervals may vary and should use caution always. May have missed some. This table is for Peugeots from the 90s onward. Part/s Price (LKR) Interval (KMs or time) Advisory TIRES 20k to 75k Depends on tire. Usually 45k kms. Tires cost the same as other Japs & Euros. Use softer tire because suspension can be damaged with hard tires. Dunlops are a good balance between price and quality. Brake pads 7k to 20k Last long really. Usually every 40k kms. Available from 3rd party junk to brembos. My 508 cost 16k a pair in todays prices.oem. not bad at all. 406 and them still cost under 10k. Depends on driving habits. Brake discs 10k to 60k Same as above Unless a stone or something scratches the discs, they last long and don’t screech. Of-couse brakes depend on the driving habits. Any Filter 2k to 5k Every 10k for oil filter. Cabin/Fuel filter every 20k or as advised. Easily found. AUTOGear oil 25k-100k Older pugs I’d say at least every 25k. Newer pugs say lifetime but I’d say every 40k -80k to be sure. Overseas it’s 20K MILES for older pugs and 50-80K MILES for newer. But in Lanka better change bit earlier because of harsh conditions. Lifetime oil is bs. Newer pugs need 4 Litres of gear oil that cost about 80k. Engine oil (older pugs) 10k- 20k For older non turbo cars. every 10k if synthetic or 5k for mineral oil. Cost the same as an average car. No any special recomendations. Engine oil (newer pugs) 50k average 508,3008,5008 and other newer models. Every 10k. Please do this ritually or you will have problems. Esp 5w 30 is recommended. But please check with agent/ booklet to make sure. Mobil 1 or Total is recommended. AC GAS 10k to 75k Re-gas as neccesary. or check every 2 years. R-134A (or HFC-134a) for most cars before 2016. Cost peanuts to gas. The post 2016 onwards it was mainly R-1234YF (or HFO-1234yf) gas. Now that’s expensive. About 50k usually. Check under hood to confirm type. This Is also the same as any brand. Clutch @AVANTE I need help on this Brake fluid 5k Every 2-3 years is what’s followed in Lanka. So far no horror stories. If you use brakes a lot due to racing or traffic. Better go case by case basis. COOLANT 25k max Every 5 years. Almost never changed in Lanka. Some might change even sooner. Water is not ok. Use a reputed brand. STR sold in supermarkets is water with green dye. Ask me how I know. SPARK PLUGS 2k to 6k each Pug recommends 45K kms. Can attest to that. Cleaning and checking won’t hurt I’d say. Ignition Coils 10k upwards each Check every 20k. Lankans change when busted only. Usually can run for 5 years. Buy and keep from overseas as is very cheap there. Battery 40k to 125k Battery prices are crazy now. Used to be half this. I’d say with prices now, run it dry. Don’t let that mfr die. Expensive af. My 508 cost me 68k for a new brand. Amazon is about 90k. Shock absorbers. 15k to 45k Inspection is the best identifier Wide variety. Can even be rebuilt which I don’t prefer. But not too bad really. Axle oil seals 25k leaks gear oil. common issue after about 10 years. easy fix needs some disassembly to fix. so better to use qualified technician. to be updated. ( WARMLY WELCOME TO ALL COMMENTS, SUGGESTIONS, CRITICISM ETC. 😊 )
    3 points
  13. Maybe I ShoUld ZUlu or maybe I should ASK Again?
    3 points
  14. The sad reality is realistically there is no end in sight for the import ban. With an honest and educated society the government would have been able to start allowing limited imports into the country (e.g. X number of vehicles between A- B USD, etc...). However, lets be honest...honest and educated are not adjectives we can use to describe our masses. Our guys (from politicians all the way down to the brokers) are going to cheat and lie in every possible way possible so that also will not work.
    3 points
  15. Yep, those are aftermarket tail lamps. According to the seller, they’re the only units of this type in SL, but I didn’t bother verifying or feel the need to. Regardless, I really like how they look at night! The pics I had of the interior weren’t that great to look at. I did try snapping a few pics earlier tonight, so will send those. Will try to post any pics of the interior at day later on. And thanks again!
    3 points
  16. @iRage Thanks you for the well detailed reply. You are absolutely right. My gut always said to go with the swift (Also i find it really good looking as well.) But everyone said otherwise. But when checking the prices i find the vitz are overpriced a lot and not good looking either. I can find a decent swift around 45 so i decided to go with the swift. I will post my journey with the swift soon. Thank you guys.
    3 points
  17. mcn...collange yacada hin wlta hina wenn epa mcn...ubl meh malasian car peda peda irisy crnn epa ... ubl mna kiwwth api ape gman yanawa mcn...civik wthrk nem mcn depndr ecacuth bassnwa harida... thada thada
    3 points
  18. GP1 Pros : Good car in the category. Nimble car with decent pickup, lot's of space, overall fun car to drive. Have bells and whistles like cruise control etc. I've owned one few years back - loved it. Cons : it's a hybrid that is 10 years old. Hybrid batteries might have worn out. Some GP1's developed an oil burning issue. Well documented in the forum. Despite being a hybrid you will not get gas mileage in the range of Aquas etc. Vitz Pros : Basic car cheap to run. Simple mechanics. it has a toyota badge so people love it. Cons : Feels a bit underpowered. Extremely basic = Less car for money than the Fit (cruise control? never heard of it) . Feels sluggish and uncomfortable on long drives. - both cars are relatively popular cars. So be vary that these cars always change hands and prime target for buying and selling folks who probably roll back the mileage, dress up any accidents and sell of so be extra careful when buying common/popular cars. -Both cars are 10 years old... so expect a few repairs here and there. I'd recommend the Fit over the vitz any day. Even with the oil burn issues. It's a lot more car than the Vitz. -
    3 points
  19. My opinion about paying 14m for a Premio stems from the fact that even a 2018 Premio is based on early 2000 tech and is pretty much the same car as a 2008 but with safety equipment retro fitted (which doesn't give it the highest safety scores). So for that price there are much better alternatives for at much better price points. <Sure..plenty of cars like the Land Cruiser and HiAce are based on 20year old tech..but the value propositions of these cars are totally different. Also...these cars too have the badge tax as the Premio..> As for the CR-V, you are truly getting a modern vehicle. New tech. New Platform. IMO a 19M CR-V would be better than a 14m Premio. But then I also don't think that a CR-V is worth that much... See that is the thing...for 23M what do you expect ? Do you want brand image? TBH if I fork out 23M on a car...I would want to feel special. Which a CR-V or Premio wouldn't cover. At those prices I would at least look into a Lexus if I want a Japanese car (I personally don't find the appeal for Audis, BMWs are too wankerish and at my age I would much prefer an elegant Merc..but sadly most of the ew ones are way too bling for me). Yes...the Euros would offer a much better brand and driver experience. However, Euros...no matter what does require a bit more pampering as they get old and require being diligent in terms of maintenance from day one. It has always been the case. So you need to go into it with that mind set. A 10+ year old below to about averagely maintained Euro can be a bit fussy over a Japanese car (only hitch is most Japanese cars are simply thrashed). Now...a personal rant....none of these cars are worth a single Rupee you spend beyond the price they were probably 5 year ago (even then it was ridiculously over priced thanks to the taxation). Even the Euros.
    3 points
  20. The question is do you think it is overpriced? and that the price you are paying is not going to be returned to you in terms of what the car can do? are you sure that paying 18M is worth for what you want from the car ? Obviously, some people think it is reasonable....so the answer lies within you.
    3 points
  21. Not necessarily. Most were imports from the agent (CHOGM cars) and agent should be able to source parts. Older models were from Singapore and Japan. Yes..it wont be as easy as the Premio/Allion but it won't be any more difficult than a Crown or Audi. A search in the quick site shows 1 that was posted 3 days ago. You don't have to buy it or even think of buying it. But just go take a look. It will be a good comparison as to what you can get from another brand for a lot less money than a Premio.
    3 points
  22. Well..there isn't a a science to it. You just have to see the condition of the car against the car for what it is...e.g. there is no way on heaven hell or or earth that a 200,000km car can look absolutely perfect as if it was just manufactured. It can be very clean and tidy and well taken care of but you will still see little signs like the wheel arch covers being slights ""used""", etc... Then on the other hand...if a car that is just 2 years old with 30,000km to look like it went through a battle field. So in general....check the condition of the interior and the body. Are the carpets, seats, door panels, dashboards look clean ? or do they look all scratched up, torn, fixed up ? Are there signs of things been fitted and removed ? Do the carpets, steering wheel, seats, etc.. look too worn out for a car that has done the mileage it says it has done ? If it is all clean and it doesn't look like someone vacuumed and rubbed interior cleaner on it to look shiny, then the previous owner probably took care of it. You can tell if something has been clean all along or if someone just did a rush job to clean it (kind of like if you go to use the toilet at someone's house...looking around the toilet in detail, you can say if the toilet is always clean or someone quickly cleaned it up because guests were coming). Same with the body....is the car sitting properly ? or does it look like the car is sagging (you know...something seems off...the wheels don't look straight, it looks like the body just wants to touch the ground and sleep). Are there any signs of body kits, spoilers being removed or cheap parts added on ? Do the lights look faded and old ? Does the paint look very very bright and fresh but it looks thick and heavy or even just dull and flat? Are the panel gaps consistent (e.g. does the bonnet line up with the grill and the headlights equally on both sides)? Do all the panels of the car look like it has the same color ? Are there a lot of dings (remember, there may be a paint chip or two..but that is fine). Do some panels look like it has heavier paint or more dull paint than the other panels ? If a car has been well looked after, then the body is going to look consistent. There might be repaired panels (cars do have accidents and that is fine as long as it is fixed properly), but even then it just looks very close to the original panels (paint will look more or less the same even in the fixed panels..not too heavy, same color, consistent, no paint over spray, etc...). A cared for car...even if it has scratch or dent it will look natural okay (sometimes you get those scratches and dents that to fix you need to paint an entire panel that you just feel sorry to get rid of the original paint to fix a 5cm scratch/dent). A cared for car, the body will look clean and glow and will not be too much. I say too much because if you go look at a Corolla or Axio sold by a broker with about 68,000km...you will see that there is too much of shiny-ness and bling in it. Look at the under carriage....is it all dinged up ? Rusty ? Oily ? A clean undercarriage is always a good sign. The nuts and bolts and rubber bushings will look grey and dusty but not looking all dried up and rusted out (I am not talking about surface rust here...actual bubbly rust). Sadly in SL many service stations spray kerosene and all kinds of "undercoat protection" so all these cars will have a very greasy looking undercarriage (you know..the oily look when you put way too much lotion on your face or coconut oil on your hair...that kind of oiliness). Then go on to the engine...drive it...does the car have unusual rattles inside ? Does the engine feel alive and active or does it feel lazy? Same with the brakes...does it feel nice and firm when you step on the brakes ? or does it feel like you are pushing a pedal connected to a rubber band ? If someone hacked the car (and cars like the Swift Sport can easily be done so by ricers) you feel that although the engine revs and moves and delivers the power, it feels lazy/worn-out and doesn't give you that fresh feel. So yeah....it just like a person....when a person is tired and worn out you sense it. Similarly you will sense it if you actually look and feel the car without getting distracted by gold badges and sport exhausts and stuff. So..there is no exact science....just look if the car is average and clean and tidy and not over the top or overly worn-out. If you think it looks okay and you are interested, then take it to for a proper professional inspection.
    3 points
  23. @matroska , @AVANTE, @iRage, @Gummybr I have been looking at the ZC32s to be able to replace my ‘15 Suzuki Stingray as a daily driver. Given that I have to rev it to get away from the flashing, horning traffic behind me, it doesn’t do as much fuel as expected, roughly 12-14 kmpl (15 on a good day). The ZC32s that I came across have auto transmissions (appeals to me coz Wife can drive in an emergency) with a fairly low mileage (approx. 68K & maintained at A*W) as well (but asking for around 6.5mil), and i was contemplating this since I need a bigger vehicle to cope up with a new addition to the family. I'm not too fond of the Vitz (too mainstream) and the Fit (countless DCT issues, I’ve heard) and the new Swift RS (way off my budget). I love how the ZC32 looks and drives (according to YouTube reviews) and I’ve heard that a realistic fuel economy is around 11-12, which I can live with honestly. TL;DR, looking to replace my Stingray with a ZC32 Appreciate your opinions or advice on the above. Sorry for piggybacking on your question @Duan27😬
    3 points
  24. I used to love it too. When it was first revealed I thought it was magical. But gosh...every single Mazda I see no matter model or size are soul reds. I got extra tired of it after seeing these massive (and semi massive) crossovers in that color. It just..just....too much dang red . Mazda totally over extended the Soul Red. They should have saved it for "special" cars. Like the roadster. or limited packages or trim levels of the 6 and 3. I don't like it on the Demio either. Looks like a rolling red ball or a red guineapig. the 2 sedan..yes.
    3 points
  25. Hey folks! How’s everyone doing? Ok so an update after 5 years of ownership. 1) Still going fine with 0w20 Motul and following the maintenance minder - 38k km on the clock 2) Continental tyres feel nice and comfy - good thing I got them before the prices shot up! 3) On my 2nd Amaron EFB battery - about 1 year in so far. Idle stop works fine at a max of 45sec. More than 1min with the ac off 4) I scratched my side mirror thanks to this security guard at Tea Avenue guiding me right into a tree. He had the audacity to later lecture me about folding mirrors when reversing - 8k on that paint job upcoming as it has an ugly patch. The panel came off, but managed to fit it back 5) My steering wheel has developed pretty bad scuff marks with the faux leather peeling off. I think it got worse over time thanks to hand sanitizers! Need to get a cover done 6) My ceramic coating from Meguiar’s (M688) seems to have finally given way. Will be going with an Artdeshine one after some paint touch ups 7) The repaired AC compressor is still holding strong! The AC chap was amazed and pretty proud of himself as it’s the first one he did that lasted this long. May need a recharge of R1234yf later Also no more rats!! Apart from car wiring, I also sprayed my whole garage and surroundings with the Marderspray from Liquimoly. Works a charm. Need to get more. Still love the car 😀
    3 points
  26. Given your list and requirements, the only thing that would be able to match your fuel consumption need would be the Honda Insight and the Honda Civic Hybrid (FD3). If you get a well maintained one these hybrids are actually very reliable and would be value for money along with a good set of options and driving dynamics. You could also consider vehicles like the Honda Fit GP1 and Toyota Aqua if fuel consumption is more prioritized than the sedan form factor. Toyota 141 Corolla and the petrol Civic FDs are not very economical and are thirstier than your consumption demands. However, both are reliable sedans with the FD Civic being sportier and option packed than the Corolla. You can also check Mazda 3 and Mitsubishi Lancer EX and CS; however they would not return you with 15kmpl or more in daily CMB commute.
    3 points
  27. What @fiat fan said....the 6 is the best all rounder on that list. For some reason should the 6 fall through or you fall-out of love with t...then the Axela/3. Get a car check* done. Then take it to the other dealer....get whatever is identified to be faulty fixed. Depending on the mileage and the age you might want to look in to things like oil seals, suspension bushes, brake components, etc...but definitely do a complete fluid change (engine & transmission oil, brake fluid, etc...)
    3 points
  28. Have used all these cars. Mazda 6 all the way. Try to get a 2015 Yom and up. Never take it to carmart for any reason. Get a car checks done. Make sure it’s rust free. Fuel economy is ok really. 9ish if u drive sane. much better than that tiny merc with the cheap willy bin interior. Bargain hard because most people don't buy these bigger engined cars. Too scared and stupid to realize it’s the same kmpl as a premio with a 1500. Try to get a 2.5L engine with the bells and whistles. find a good mechanic to take the car and drive safe. Please avoid the urge to post cringey tiktoks like the premio/axio buggers. (Mumbling “eth mama pana pitin sandamali” )
    3 points
  29. At the end of the day...it is totally up to you and which car makes you feel like you want to drive it and can live with it everyday, AND which car meets your requirements. There is the utility factor. One is a small crossover the other is a mid-sized sedan. You should buy the car that suits your needs. Both have their (inherent) issues and a lot depends on the condition of the car. So...first and foremost, the better car of the two is the one that is in better shape and is more honest (i.e. proper service history records, ACTUALLY well taken care of..not just a sale paint and polish job sort of car...etc..). So even if you want a Vezel, a good, honest Allion would be a better buy than a questionable Vezel. Beyond that...there are the little technical things. The Allin 260 is actually quite an old design where a lot of the things got carried on from the 240 series from the early to mid 2000s. If not properly used and taken care of the car is prone to things like engine sludge build up and issues with the AC compressor is common. At the end of the day..the attraction about the car is that it is a no-nonsense A to B type of car that is based on old fashioned tech that is easier to take care of in a SL context (i.e. any maka baas can fix it..which is also the issue with the car. Most of them are cars owned by cheap owners and were taken care of by maka baases). The Vezel on the other hand is much more modern. So you get better features/accessories, better safety equipment, etc...(personally I find the Vezel a nicer car to drive and the interior looks more refined than the Allion). On the downside, usage conditions in SL gives DCT issues so you need to find one that has been properly used and the DCT issues rectified properly. Another downside is that Hondas of this era were the fist cars to come out where the electronics are highly integrated. So even if you get a dead battery or the remote key battery dies off the car starts throwing 101 error messages). So....as you can see..there is no proper answer as to which car is better. Go with the better condition car that meets your practical needs and does not make you bankrupt. Never buy a (common day-to-day) car as an investment. Also, get the car professionally inspected. Do not spend all the money you have on buying the car. Save some for pre-emptive maintenance work and repairs that you WILL and MUST do as soon as you buy it.
    3 points
  30. Just to let you know that I have updated AL forum software to prevent spamming activities. Will closely monitor for the next few days. Happy motoring guys... 😊
    3 points
  31. You have set "FIRE" to the thread "SWIFTLY", A shame it was not "JUSTYfied"
    3 points
  32. hi did you newly buy it? any maintenance history on it? T belt?
    3 points
  33. Resurrecting this thread with a long overdue photo
    3 points
  34. Ferentino update: Shape tire (for 25k a tire I aint complaining) but seems to lack grip for any spirited driving. Anything beyond a 75* turn at full throttle and the tires start squealing (dript noize) but thats also probably because of the lack of LSD. Unsure. I dont remember having this issue on 8 year old Continental ContiComforts
    3 points
  35. The 10th gen honda is like an insta “influencer+ model” Many fanboys.mostly teenage virgins from the gama. Changes hands every so often. Well driven and abused good. @matroska and I had the same conversation in another thread. Civic is the new “goda gihin pennawa” car. anyway why would you even bid on an accident car? I would have run tf away. plus how many cars you buying bro? lol What job you doing to buy LC200 and civic FK in lanka bro? I’ll come in the next flight available 😜
    3 points
  36. Again...I would not say its possible nor would I say you can't. Sorry, really not an answer to your question. If your engine is in good health and you do normal low-intensity runs with the engine coming to proper operating temperature, then yes you would increase the possibility of getting closer to 10K. But the reality is that the quality of the fuel, quality of air being induced into the engine, etc... would also affect this. So, although the oil might suggest 10K and you do low intesity, low stress runs, in reality, this would actually reduce. So...it is all very contextual. The reality is that everyone, from the manufacturers to garages to service stations, gives you a standard recommendation because that would be the safest way to go about it. Otherwise, they would have to come up with 1000 different oil change recommendations, one for each of their customers. So, it is best to figure out what is best for your car by actually studying/observing it.
    2 points
  37. are you related to @fiat fan? WOW! That's indeed a find. The FD series Civic's are pretty special - looks way ahead of their time and quite comfy. and a Manual to boot! While many people ask for advice very few do actually come back to the forum and tell us about what they bought! So hat's off for the follow up. Looking forward to hearing more about this car.
    2 points
  38. To be pedantic, it was not an official recall. PSA replaced it with an updated unit under warranty IF you were to face the issue within the warranty period. The issue was discovered by owners after crossing about 50k - 60k kilometers. That's the sad part as there were many owners who didn't do that mileage within the warranty period. It was a BMW-PSA joint venture project from 2006. The engine did have a recall for a timing chain and tensioner issue (both parts were designed by BMW, they had issues with Timing chains in their diesels and other petrol engines as well from that era, most famous was the N47). The engine was a good design; lightweight, compact, had good low down torque, made good power, smooth and economical for the power outputs it offered in various tunes. On the RCZ-R, It was tuned for 270hp and it had the highest HP per Litre ratio of any production car, until the Yaris GR came along about 5 years later. The main flaw being that the piston rings were fragile in the earlier years and gave way very quickly. Similar issue to what the Honda Fit GP1s faced. They resolved the issue with better quality rings on the later THP engines. How bad is the oil burn in yours? Does it drink more than 1L per 2500km or so? Lot of white smoke? Rough running and noise?
    2 points
  39. You learn something new everyday. The Hyabusa is actually the peregrine falcon. Read a bit about it and see why it was named as such.
    2 points
  40. Did a camping tour to Hulangala on Sunday, its amazing how far the small Alto will take you where some so called SUV's bottom out.
    2 points
  41. So a Corolla it is huh ? <I mean..c'mon what are people gonna think when your car is in the garage 90% of the time ?>
    2 points
  42. It was brought to my notice that most makabaases now don't accept anything other than the usual Premio/Allion/Axio 140/etc...
    2 points
  43. That is an understatement ! The 1.0L is an absolute dead lazy dog. Sucks trying to do anything other than drive on flat ground in traffic. The Fit is a much much nicer car to drive...so yes...given the choice between the Fit and the Vitz...the Fit wins as a much better car. If you want something cheap that even a blind monkey with a hammer and 1m of rope can fix and don't care about creature comforts or driving pleasure..go for the Vitz. The only Vitz that is decent is either the 1.3L or 1.5L variant. There isn't a car in the world that can run the AC without the engine running (or the Hybrid power system). In fact the AC will not even cool properly unless the car is moving (you may realise that the AC starts cooling more when the car is moving and starts to feel weak after sitting in one place for sometime. If you are asking if these cars can run the AC with a start-stop function...yes. A Hybrid will keep the AC running using the Hybrid battery/power unit until a certain point and thenthe engine will turn on. If the Vitz has a Smart Start-Stop system..then the AC will run whilst the engine is shut down but the engine will start up as soon as the battery level is low (in warm countries like SL don't expet this too be too long).
    2 points
  44. Every JDM fanboy now- 2JZ karan nadda. Even if its a liteace!
    2 points
  45. This thread has changed from "Japanese car with most comfortable seats" to " How to buy a Premio in Sri Lanka without being conned by car sale guys and buy & sell baiyas" 🤪
    2 points
  46. You will have to go with the EX which has the moon roof. As RWD mentioned it's pretty much a solid daily driver - mind you most of the specimens we have are the 1.0 Turbo versions so do not expect Type R Performance - but is on par/better than common Japanese 1.5 Sedan's we have in Sri Lanka. read this thread it's quite comprehensive and this blog by yours truly
    2 points
  47. Hi, try poolishing, best replce the cause as the first corrective action. TT.
    2 points
  48. Please tell me the real fuel consumption (km/l) of above van model (non a/c)? I have a van of above model. But I don't know the exact fuel consumption (km/l). Please help me.
    2 points
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