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So I got a courtesy call from the agent’s customer relations manager today after my online feedback to their survey from the last job. She was all “oh sir I hope your car is working well now after the job”. I mean if there’s a way to make a situ worse, she checked the boxes. So I had to politely say no after which she gaslit me by asking why I didn’t bring the vehicle back to them immediately. Yup, told her I didn’t want to hear more of the, “it’s normal with these new cars. Long live the old!” that I experienced even after taking it on a test ride. She was like, “oh ok sir we look forward to welcoming you again for your next service!”. I’m lost for words.

Your second guess would be correct. Mazda Capella / 626 it is. Quoting Count Blockula from Vavulwatte it would have been "malli suck ekak dennada?" (And its not a bad thing)

I was going to go with a brand that has a LEGACY in the rallying circuit. But I realize it's not the same. Next guess is deduct 40 from the number of the beast and you have the model? Maybe he was driving slow cos he was a bit nervous? What if you are driving a hearse and suddenly someone taps your shoulder and says 'malli drop me off here thank you' ?

This sadly is the Honda agent's mentality - they are still living in the EK3/EG8 age - I may have said this before but when you take it to them they are always like this is normal The "Hub" and Sta****d are at two ends of the spectrum. I personally have not been to the 'hub' but my friends have. And from their experience, they are somewhat paranoid . Customer : 'I noticed the oil level has dropped slightly' Hub : 'Your engine is done for replace the Engine. Replace the gearbox and replace the windshield wipers' at the agents Customer: ' My engine oil level is at zero, the engine is overheating and there's smoke coming out of the engine bay' St****d : ' Aiyo that is normal sir, here pour some kerosene into the oil filler' and proceed to throw a bucket of water to cool down the engine. To replace my brake pads and the coolant tank I went to this place in Yakkala who mostly deal with Honda's - I'm generally happy with the little work they did will not mention names as per forum rules.

Have you performed the Basic diagnosis like Dry Wet Compression Test etc. to determine whether the Engine is actually needs a rebuild?

The problem with Stafford and indeed many agents are they don't follow preventing maintenance when servicing. This is all in the manual. They are content to do an oil change, undercarriage clean up, wash and vacuum and that's pretty much it. Then for example when the transmission gives an issue when fluid hasn't been changed as per the user manual, they condemn the car. The next big issues for these Civics will be the drive belt snapping. I dread to think of the repair cost for those and how the agent will manage it. Ideally these should be changed when approaching the six year mark pro-actively.

That is a nice car. Has the potential to be something really nice. There are places that "customize" lights. Please don't ! They do complete injustice to the car by putting wierd LED lights that work in wierd patterns, etc... It will be really hard...and even expensive...but I would say please use the car as is..collect money and buy actual proper lights and trim bits. Then slowly start restoring the car. These things in good condition go for really high prices now.

IMO I feel it is with the newer cars that more or less all the agents are mentally screwed with and give BS stories and cover ups for everything. Here out my logic.... For older models, like E100 Corollas, EK Civics, and B12-B14 Sunnies, the agents know what to do with them and are equipped to deal with the cars. Partly because they themselves handled the cars (selling them) and therefore got trained and tooled (there would at least be one old grease monkey who was with them from those days). However, with these new models....they simply did not get trained or tooled properly as, on the one hand, they did not deal with the mass models we got down as grey imports. Secondly, the equipment, etc..requires capital that they simply did not have.

Got the rotors resurfaced at St**ford. Somewhat decent improvement, however they didn't bother to check about the main complaint, which was spongy brakes. They gave me some nonsensical lecture about how older cars are better than the new Civics and they don't like the new Civic at all since it has way too many gadgets and people who spend a lot of money on things like this, Benzes, BMW's, etc. just have way too many expectations; apparently the main point of a car is to get from point A to B. Ignored the idiot who told me that and asked him why the Brake Hold was struggling when downhill. He was clueless and said that it's normal and it must be the way the brakes have worn in a particular direction. He went on to say that they only tested it uphill since the function of brake-hold is to prevent the car from slipping backwards. Bugger was full of nonsense. On the flip side, they also spent a day with the car removing the links and checking for any play, which they claimed there wasn't any. If I wanted to change the links regardless, it would be about 54k per wheel. Asked them to place it back as-is. Funny enough, after that the suspension seems to be performing significantly better and isn't wobbly anymore. The only thing is that it still tends to slightly fishtail sideways at the rear when driving at higher speeds over manhole covers, etc. on the road. Decided to take all these into my own hands and give explicit instructions to whichever garage I take the car going forwards, which will be Hy**** H**. Next step: get the brake fluid flushed and replaced since it is dark + there's most likely air bubbles inside. Figured this out since upon opening the reservoir lid, there was a bunch of bubbles that surfaced too. That's most likely causing the spongy brakes. Second, is to get a 3D wheel alignment done (possibly at Tyreb**s.lk) since they came recommended by Hy**** H**. This is to check if anything on the rear is out of place that can cause the minor fishtailing. Shall keep you guys updated!

Got this same model given by my neighbour, he has too many so he gave me one of them. He has replaced the steel pipe with a Flexi horse, I think it is a Brake hose so that allow me to reach narrow places. Ha ha

The idea behind this document is to create a guide to buying a used car in Sri Lanka. This is just my preliminary draft, and if it's useful I hope the experts here will add/edit it, and create a final detailed guide, which maybe could be posted somewhere in autolanka (if they think its useful) Buying a used vehicle in Sri Lanka (This applies to purchase of a used car regardless of the price/age, and applies to all registered and 'reconditioned' vehicles.) 1. tests you can perform: ================ Engine ==== Before starting: - check the engine oil. Is it at the correct level? Yes: OK/Owner topped up No: Owner does not top up, engine burning oil, etc Color of oil - Light brown/colorless - engine is running reasonably good/recent service - black - engine running bad/never serviced Note: diesels tend to have dark/black engine oil After starting Did it start easily? Yes: OK No: problems in engine/battery/starter motor/tune/etc. does the exhaust show visible smoke (white, black, bluish or grey smoke)? this coud indicate engine problems such as oil burning, worn engine etc. -- note: diesels do occationally smoke a bit, especially under acceleration does it maintain operating temperature? - listen to the engine in idle - do you hear clattering, rattling, or any odd sounds? they could indicate various problems ranging from bent valves to broken mounts? note: diesels are somewhat louder than normal gasoline engines Test drive =========== Lets say you decide to go for a test drive.. .. Step out of the vehicle, and ask the owner to get it out of his driveway/car sale etc. As he does this observe the vehicle, and see if it smokes or struggles during the procedure. Look at the place where the vehicle was parked. If there is visible engine oil/coolant, etc this could indicate problems in the vehicle. (water may be visible from the car's A/C, this is normal). Ask the owner to drive you: 1. Along a rough road (so you can test the suspension) 2. On a good road, ask the owner to drive up to at least 56km/h (or whatever local speed limit) so you can see how the vehicle performs at high speed. Turn OFF the radio and A/C and listen to the car for rattles/hums Tip: a hum from front/rear may indicate need to replace wheel bearings (or what our people refer to as razors) - Stop the car and ask the owner to back up a small hill, and observe the car exhaust for smoke, this is a good test of the clutch/etc. Actual test drive: - First make sure the vehicle has insurance and road licence which are valid. Ask to see them. Then test drive the vehicle very carefully. Make sure you have a good flat road and there is very little traffic. Remember its an unfamiliar vehicle and proceed with caution. First, test the clutch and brakes. The clutch should engage neatly before releasing the pedal fully. If it engages very late, it could mean a blown clutch plate. If there are clutch/brake problems, don't drive any further, and ask the owner to resume driving. And ask yourself whether you are sure you want to buy this car, from someone who couldnt even do basic maintenance. Reviewing the owner How the owner behaves during the test drive can give you a clue of how s/he uses the vehicle in real life. For example: - Does he roll down the window and drive (even though there is an A/C) - this may indicate that the A/C rarely worked. - Does he drive like a rally driver (in which case you can buy the car if you are willing to buy an extra engine, transmission and suspension) How has s/he spent on the car? If he has spent a lot on cosmetics while ignoring real existing mechanical problems, then you should probably consider another car. Is s/he straightforward and honest? Does what the owner says match up to what you see? For example, if the owner said the car had 2 owners in total and the log book copy shows 4 owners, then they could be lying about other things, and you should be cautious. Sometimes owners make mistakes, or simply don't know an answer, but overall if the owner appears to be honest and straightforward, that is a positive sign. [Ask Questions As you review the car, ask questions from the owner. If you see anything odd, ask about it. If the owner is honest and straightforward, its a positive sign. Try to gauge how much of what the owner is telling is the truth. A good way to do this is to pretend you don't know something and ask a question. After the test drive ============ After you return to the owners house/car sale, ask the owner to pop the hood and inspect the engine. - check temperature management. The gauge inside the car should be half or less. Aside from the gage, the engine should be reasonably managing temperature and the fans should be working properly. - Carefully tap the radiator cap with the tip of your finger. If it burns your finger off, the temperature management isnt good. Similarly the engine bay should not be boiling hot (unless it's a Nissan ) Physical inspection of vehicle ===================== 1. Visual inspection: simply look at the car - see if the lines are straight. Look at the paint. Uneven areas could indicate repainting. - look at the wheel arches. Look at the brakes. Look under the car (front/rear) If possible, take the car to a service station and inspect the underneath. If this is not possible, try to look under the car and see what is visible at least - (carry a flashlight with you when you go to see the car). - look for rust, damage, etc. - look at the engine compartment. Are there odd wires and do things look as if they have been messed with? Sometimes legitimate mods (e.g. alarm systems, aftermarket headlamps) require new wiring but if you see a mess inside, it probably means the wiring has been messed up by local mechanics in which case you should think carefully whether you really want this car. - (If the vehicle is cold) carefully open the radiator cap - check if it contains coolant, and if there is any signs of oil (could indicate a head leak) Look at the engine. If it has a slight layer of dust its OK. If it is shiny and has a layer of oil that means it has been washed at a service station. I prefer a car which has a normal slightly dusty engine vs one that has been washed and scrubbed to 'look' new. - look for leaks in radiator pipes. (with the engine off) remove the engine oil cover - if you can see nice clean silver metal with perhaps yellow brown color (engine oil) this is a positive sign. (note: diesels do tend to have dark/black engine interior, this refers to gasoline vehicles only). - Look at the fluid levels of the various fluids (power steering, brake fluid, auto transmission if auto) - if they are not up to level it could indicate leaks or careless owner. - if the vehicle is hot you may be able to open the radiator overflow tank (be careful) and check if he uses coolant. Not using coolant indicates: 1. Owner is an idiot 2. Radiator has leak and owner is topping it up with ordinary water. Either case, don't buy the car. 2. Tap test gently tap the body of the car, with a fingernail (dont rap it loudly) as you walk around. Check the hood, front left and right side and back carefully, also doors (as these are the main accident prone areas). Other general ideas: - Ask the owner what maintenance was performed. If he tells you a list of things replaced/repaired, this is usually a good sign and means the owner took some effort to look after car. - check the mileage? Mileage can be modified - but if it corresponds with the appearance of the vehicle then it could be accurate. - ask for receipts particularly for the timing belt/clutch etc HAS THE VEHICLE BEEN SERVICED/WASHED? If the owner was so cheap that he couldn't service the vehicle before he sold it, then do you really want to buy a car from him/her? *Exception*: Sometimes the owner may be actively using the car in which case it may be a bit dusty but all the same he/she should have washed/serviced/detailed the car within a few days of deciding to sell it. Now Consider the actual condition of the vehicle and make a list of all problems you encountered: Scenario 1: vehicle has major problems which can be fixed ===================================== for example: - Clutch plate gone. - brakes not too good. -minor suspension probs (e.g. weak shocks). - minor engine probs (e.g. poor tune up). Indicates that the seller was a cheap idiot (or typical local) Verdict: Buy with caution, knowing there could be other existing problems, and repair BEFORE YOU DRIVE said vehicle. Scenario 2: Vehicle has minor problems which can be fixed later ========================================= - A/C not running cold enough. - Minor dings, dents, scratches. - Minor cosmetic issues. Verdict: Buy the car, but set aside money to fix those problems later on. Scenario 3: Vehicle has major problems which can't be fixed easily =========================================== - Chassis problems (cracks/bent chassis) - major engine problems (e.g. grey/white/black smoke, burning oil, head gasket leaks) - major suspension/mechanical problems - gearbox problems which would necessitate replacing gear box... so on. Verdict: don't buy the car, unless you own a garage, have a million to spare, or are plain crazy. Other costs Aside from the above, there are a number of things you usually have to do, when purchasing ANY used car. These usually include: - Insurance & road licence. - 4 tires. - full service/oil change/air filter etc. - brake pads/etc - New battery (if existing battery not too good). - Timing belt (if close to 100k km's or multiples of that). Many people will say they replaced the belt, they could be lying. It's easier to spend 10k and replace it than to undergo a broken belt and engine rebuild. If they have replaced the belt, you can get a good garage to visually inspect it. signs of a good vehicle: - Vehicle is clean. (As in, the owner has washed, cleaned, and serviced it.) - is in good mechanical condition (good engine, transmission, suspension, brakes, body) - owner has focused on maintaining the mechanical condition of the vehicle - Vehicle has been maintained properly and scheduled maintenance has been done, e.g. brakes, clutch, timing, etc have been replaced at the proper intervals as necessary. - owner cares about vehicle, services regularly, engine oil is not dirty - owner is upfront and honest about any flaws. - owner uses a good garage for maintenance, and used original/quality components Suggestion 1: To all the experts here, can you please add your comments/suggestions tips on buying a used car. Suggestion 2: Would it be possible for Autolanka readers/Admins to set up a car pricing guide? This could be something updated regularly to show average true market values (like edmunds.com) and be useful to people looking to purchase a car. If any Autolanka readers have suggestions on what they check when buying a used car, please add them here. Update: Top gear have some excellent tips here:

Hi, Finally I managed to sort out my gear shift problem. 1st checked dropping resistor resistance - it was within acceptable limits ( 10~15 ohm as per service manual ) - so it's not that ( refer 1.pdf) Then checked Line pressure solenoid voltages / resistance ( 1.pdf ) - it was with in acceptable limits ( but this is after 1 ~2 hrs drive with heated ATF ) Then replaced TCU with similar model TCU ( G10 & Y11 has same TCU since both has QG15DE engine ) - but still the grear shift prob was there... So final option was to remove Control Valve Assembly in the gear box & check the Line Pressure Solenoid !!!! ( refer 2 .pdf & 3 .pdf ) Once control valve assembly is dismantled can take the solenoid valve assembly out. ( refer Page 3, 1st pic in 3 .pdf ) When the line pressue solenoid resistance was checked in dismantled form ( at that time solenoid was in normal room temp - not heated ) it was showing abnormal resistance figure...!!!! - problem diagnosed - issue was faulty line pressure solenoid .. replaced with recon one. Now no issue ... back to normal....!!!! hope this might be useful for you all. Thanks 1 AT_line pressure solenoid testing.pdf 2 Removing Control Valve Assembly.pdf 3 Control Valve Assembly Solenoids Removal.pdf