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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/09/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    So missed me much @trinity? Been following this thread for a while now. The only problem I've been having was the shortage of popcorn at times.
  2. 2 points
    It is a sad state that the world has lost its ability to be simple. So these manufacturers really cannot make a off-roader without using a zilliion sensors and letting a computer take care of it ? Simple does not mean we sacrifice safety...but then giving a computer controlled 4wd system to a moron who knows nothing about off-roading and thinks his car is going to keep him alive on tough trail by it self is a safety risk. Yes....things like autonomous braking, etc..are nice and useful and required and as most models have shown these features can be taken off depending on the market segment in question. However, did the drive mechanism really need such electroniification ? The reassurance of pulling on your transfer case ever and feeling that and hearing that slight clunk of a lock is very reassuring. Africa gets the old junk due to economic reasons. But when mining companies, the UN/Projects, government wants no non-sence off roaders we still buy the simple 70 series or the stripped down base versions of the Prado or LC 200 (the latter two still has a few ECUs driving them but at least the suspension, etc..are still normal) OR we simply go for the Fortuner or Pajero or Pajero Sport (especially the P. Sport). So in many ways Toyota, Nissan and MItsubishi have been some what lucky enough to have the financial means to have different products for different markets which covers all bases. As for the 70...in May of this year there were indications that Toyota will have a replacement for the 70. At the time the statement was that the power trains would change (to meet emission standards) with the same type of rugged drive train the 70 was known for whilst shortcomings in the different NCAP tests will be addressed (so I am guessing this means they will do better on fixing things like the appauling small-overlap results, moderate side and roof protection results....plus they might put in some active safety features. The old school drive train Toyota would still have under its belt because everything from the Hilux to the Fortuner and the small Hino trucks use it (albeit with an electronic switch in some). The wider front tread width and the shorter rear thread with is a result of the V8 engines....they just never bothered to change the rear.....
  3. 1 point
    Any new car besides a Toyota will have a considerable decrease in after sales value (mostly fot german vehicles & Hondas as far as I know) Why not go for a crossover because sedans are less practical & will lose some demand in the future. Something like a CHR or Eclipse? If a comfortable sedan is what you really love to have, then the premio is a good choice! Our neighbours (doctors) have imported a white one using their permit and they love every bit of it! Even the Axio WXB is quite comfortable (as per my friend) and the red interior is really something! In the end it depends on your criteria! Good luck
  4. 1 point
    Yes, that is true. We won't see any more new vehicle models with old technology again. Current iteration will be phased out sooner or later. Even toyota is not updating the LC70 design to even out the track width difference in front and rear probably because they have no plans to continue it. I was in Australia in 2017 and did some tracks along Anne beadell highway and some in Kimberley, almost all the vehicles were 70 series dual cabs and troop carriers, hence my comment on the outback.
  5. 1 point
    Couldn't disagree more with you mate, there is still a market for true rugged 4WD's out there albeit not here in SL. you don't want 85 ECU that are waiting to fail on a remote trail on Aussie outback or on an African game trail. Peoples lives depend on these vehicles. Sure it's not a huge market like the mall crawlers have in US or Europe and even SL, but people still use these quite often. Look at the little Jimny, not a massive offroading truck but its an honest 4WD which is quite nimble and capable. It's quite popular in the Scandinavia just because it's simple and practical in tricky conditions. As I see, the real reason they opted to soften the defender was LR has already lost the edge on ruggedness and reliability many ears ago. LR got wiped out from Africa and Australia by Toyota and Middle east was taken over by Nissan. As pretty as they are to the eye, reliability records say a different story. JLR is trying to sell another range rover disguised in defender clothing, only time will tell if they succeed.
  6. 1 point
    Looks a bit too plush and techie for me...the LR Defender, much like the LC 70 series, was supposed to be simplistic which contributed to its capability and usability (even if the thing broke down in the middle of no where you could fix it with a hammer and a rubber band ). Comparing the LR Defender to a Prado is a bit imbalanced. The Prado is supposed to be a off-road capable wagon. Not a full fledged rugged, where ever you want to go off-roader like the Defender (a better comparison for the Prado would be a Discovery ?). If you compare the Defender against the LC70 then the figres match up. LC 70: Towing : 3500kg Payload : 1200kg Wading Depth : 70cm (stock intake, with the optional factory fitted intake snorkel it goes up to 80 something) Now..payload.....be very wary about what manufacturers say about Payload. The payload is defined as the total weight of passenger, cargo and ancillaries a vehicle can safely carry. So if the manufacturer says payload is 1200....when you add the weight of all the seat heaters, stereos, and other bells and whistles, spare tires, roof rack boxes that the manufacturer themselves offer; plus adjustments for fuel weight, the actual payload you can carry reduces drastically. The LC 70 series has a payload of 1200kg....in the wagon, depending on the spec, that goes down to about 950 or a bit more....but the pickup variant, with the heavy truck bed in the back the usable payload goes down to about 900 (and that is if you get the optional aluminium truck bed)
  7. 1 point
    Good luck bro,.. TT.
  8. 1 point
    Sadly, I couldn't attend to the project lately. Body work was completed some time ago in my absence. Shiny paint is now under a layer of dust. Soon I'll start assembling the car and post few photos on the progress.
  9. 1 point
    Looks fatter and less rugged, albeit with some original curves. Similar to old vs new-mini redesign?
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    what about the non-return valve at the servo, in my case replacing it solved the problem.
  12. 1 point
    He is. Has helped quite a few of my friends too although I've not met him personally (yet). A valuable member of the forum as well.
  13. 1 point
    Pretty much any good garage should be able to check this for you. According to the symptoms you've described, the vacuum leak is either on the vacuum line connecting the brake booster and the intake manifold, or in the brake booster itself. You can check the brake booster yourself by following the steps listed in the post below: You can also follow the vacuum line between the booster and intake manifold to make sure there are no cracks or pinholes, and to make sure the hose is tightly secured at both ends.
  14. 1 point
    Well OP didn't specifically ask for a Toyota or a common model so...
  15. 1 point
    Here are my experience when I had the Viva Elite 5spd manual; 1. Fuel consumption, - I got 14kmpl on my daily commute from Kelaniya - Dematagoda 2. repair cost & parts availability, - I had to replace the windshield due to a rock hitting and the parts were available right away at Unimo Orugodawatta. Insurance claim was really easy, Unimo did all the coordination with SL I******* (estimate, payment). All I had to do was give the car around noon day 1 and collected the car next day morning. 3.general issues, - 1. The only concern I had was ground clearance of the front bumper. You need to be extra careful. 4. Present market value. 6. Reselling ability - When I sold it I sold it 1.5 lakh over brandnew price and it was really quick. 7. Is low milage (less than 20,000km) elite good than high milage japan car for same budget?? - Atleast for engine components it has Daihatsu_EJ-VE engine so I would guess I would be reliable as any other Jap in general.
  16. 1 point
    The fact that Sri Lankans consider the Allipn/Premio 260 "Premium" just makes me want to go on a bloody rampage and makes me have no hope for SL... No..Allion/Premio is a large-sized compact car that is designed to get you from A to B economically with modest creature comfort . Toyota's entry level premium car is/was the Camry, Mark X (and perhaps the actual 2.0L Premio G range..which didn't sell well as people went for the Mark X instead).
  17. 1 point
    That is because in Sri Lanka you only get the cheapo version with the 1L engine. It is sad that in SL Vitz is judged by this variant which comes with an engine that is older than the model itself. I thikn he meant...in a Vitz you feel more car than in a Wagon R.... as for presence...Toyotas and 99% of Japanese cars are not made for road presence...it goes against the Japanese way of doing things. The Vitz can stand out if you get the right one...but even then...you will not know what you are looking at unless you know what you are looking at (which is what goes with Japanese way of doing things...even the Skyline....normal people will not know what it is and think it is a normal little coupe' ...I guess the exception would be the new Supra, only because it is horrendous)
  18. 1 point
    Congratze on ze nu toy,..I'd get a turbo timer for safety,..ND GET YOUR T, BELT CHECKED !
  19. 1 point
    Mazda is just putting some of their eggs in the EV basket in case the eggs they've put in the ICE basket don't make it
  20. 1 point
    There are few reputed car sales that have been there for generations who import good used vehicles. Generally they will have reasonable mileages 20-40K for a two year old car and the prices will not be the cheapest. Good visual and specialist check should identify any accident repairs. Even an accident repair if there are no structural damage and it has been replacements should not be a huge concern as many of the cars on the SL roads are anyway damaged / repaired after they are put on the road here. I had a GP5 some years back which came to SL as grade S (unused), went in to grade 4.5 (as per Jap categorization) within two weeks thanks to a bike fellow, and R within 1st year with complements of another bike.
  21. 1 point
    Update : Repairing the gearbox The second gear popped out several times while carrying the car to home. Also 1st gear had a bad noise. So decided to open the box and check. This is my first experience of repairing a gearbox. So went through the workshop manual few times before try it. But it was not that much complex as I thought . Above images are the initial status of gearbox. Firstly noticed that there was very low oil amount inside it while manual says its 1.3 liters. The speedometer cable & drive pinion was missing and that could be the reason to fill oil partially. These pictures shows casing, rare cover, second motion shaft, three shifter shafts & gear selectors. Replaced the first motion shaft razor RLS 8. All other parts was in good shape. But there was enough dirt inside the box. So cleaned everything and washed with kerosene oil. Finally could not find packing set even from S**ana motors, Panchikawatta. So had to prepare all packing myself.
  22. 1 point
    Better if you could import personally where auction sheet and other information are available at the auction site. Since we don't have experience in bidding and stuff, it'd be better to get assistance from a reliable importer. We have no option but to to go with the mileage reading on auction sheet and JAAI/JEVIC certificate. I don't know if there is any other method to verify the mileage.
  23. 1 point
    Buying the car locally is a high risk as everyone has stated. The physical auction sheets and inspection certificates you will be shows are (and can be) for the most part be forged. Importing one yourself is a lot safer provided you find a good agent who will give you direct access to the auction sites and you can pick the cars you want after seeing the original Japanese auction inspection sheets. Typically the same car at the auction will be listed through other dealers'/agents' sites as well...you can get on this sites and see if the information is the same. Another option would be to buy a vehicle that is up for sale for the Japanese market at a Japanese dealer. These cars have a valid road worthy certificate and will have any records of it being in an accident or not. Because the car was originally intended to be sold and registered within Japan to another Japanese person, the documents cannot be faked and the car has to be in good condition (Japanese law is that any used car sold in Japan needs to have a 1 year, or 6 months in some areas, no questions asked warranty. So the local ar dealers will not try to sell old, worn out cars in Japan. These cars are a little bit expensive than at auction. This is because some will have road and other taxes already paid. A bulk of these taxes are refunded by the Japanese government once the car is de-registered for export. However, agents who buy these cars on behalf of you typically keep this for themselves. There are some agents who do not give you direct access to the auction sites. Stay away from them. They just ask you what car you want and then show you some pics of cars...only hitch is they may or may not show you the original auction sheet.
  24. 1 point
    Agree with Tiv. Due to the popularity of the vitz many car sales have wrecked and high mileage cars nicely dressed up and mileage tampered. If you are buying from a sale double check auction sheets. An uncle of mine wanted to buy a Vitz last year and initially checked from a car sale. I hadalready told him tobe vary - so he had asked for auction sheets inorder to see theauction grade and thejokers had Shown hiM an auction sheet from an axio! He ended up importing one.
  25. 1 point
    At that price, you are looking at a car that is 20 years old. No one can tell you the maintenance cost of these cars. Maintenance cost is not equal to the price of spare parts. Its the number of repairs that you need to carry out in a car, labour costs and parts costs. If you buy a Corolla 100 or a 110, you may find cheap spares, but the chances are that the number of repairs may be high because most of them are hacked. Although Corollas in general do well in fuel, if the engine is worn out, fuel consumption will be pretty high. No one can actually tell you the maintenance cost or the fuel economy of an old car, because the actual condition of the car is what determines these two factors. Generally, I would suggest the following for someone who is looking for a car within this range. The BEST car is the most diligently maintained car. 1. Mazda Familia BJ5 2. Ford Laser BJ5 3. Lancer CK - series 4. Proton Wira
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