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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/17/2020 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    Its been a while....its been 6 years since we have had her in the family and we have put 23,000km during that time. She has been extremely trouble free and have never missed a beat. Toyota sure does not make cars like this anymore Just yesterday took a pic of my little beauty next to the new Corolla Touring Wagon. The old girl looks cuter and more slender... Car during last year's cherry blossom season After a coating of Soft99 Fusso Mirror Shine Random pics through-out the years...
  2. 7 points
    To OP The fuel figure timeline car sellers, if you drive it right it does like 30kmpl or even more, blah blah first fellows who buy it like ”machan it does 40kmpl believe me” I went from Galle to puttlam to anuradhapura to airport with my dogs in 1 tank the second lot mid year, who sold their vitzs due to peer pressure it does 30kmpl, just like my Vitz but it’s so better, I put 95 now, pickup is so good it’s soo smooth ( they lied about the vitz fuel figure as well) the last lot by the end of the year, who buy it for a price hike, (current price + hike)= pora buyer it does 4kmpl, (Deep within, I put a loan and a lease to buy it because my co worker and Neighbour and brothers wife’s sisters uncles second wife got one, I don’t have money for petrol so I just take it for a 10km stroll on Sunday in the traffic) and he spent this months salary on the chrome, carpets and 3m tint and 10inch Chinese player. jokes aside mate to get an accurate value for this you ll have to wait for at least 1 year. Given the engine and the turbo expect 13kmpl or less on long distances but Just a guess. Do not get so worked up on the fuel figures bro, these are budget suvs, some chum on a bike gets intimate with the tailgate or the lights or a mirror, you ll be looking at 1 years fuel costs, if you aren’t prepared for that expense buy something else. car salesmen, personal importers, fb forums they push you and bluff so beware.
  3. 4 points
    markat aka ftt mcn ...primiyo gatt kiyanne idamk gatta wge bro bedg intariya ekak gnn mcn
  4. 4 points
    F grade - Fail G grade - Godak fail
  5. 4 points
    I wonder why the study was so keen on getting more cars with larger engines registered...for the government to rethink the tax structure wouldn't they need to give good reason as to why larger capacity engines need to be brought in ? Sri Lankans should have the freedom to buy whatever car they want and if there is a good public transport system people will fall in to habits like in Japan, Singapore and HK where the car is used only for family/weekend/pleasure outings but use public transport for work and stuff. So public transport is key...and that also might help with reducing the number of used cars in a small island. However, how are our foreign currency reserves ? Cars are highly taxed to discourage people from sending out money and larger engine cars are quite expensive than the smaller engine ones....one could argue that people will buy only what they can afford...but are we Sri Lankans really that sensible ? We have plenty of people buying cars they cannot afford.
  6. 4 points
    Continued from last post. So I gladly took that offer. They wanted the chassis number of the car (which I had with me) to be sent with the measurements of the CV joint to the supplier. Finally they found the part and informed that price of a one is Rs.15k and its not HDK as well. Didn't have any other option but to buy them, so ordered two. After few hours I had the parts. It's Chinese I guess, and imported from Dubai. It's a complete kit, The CV joint, Boot, Grease and boot tightening metallic straps. Quality wise it didn't seem bad and the boot was also much better. Its a rubber boot though. The genuine one is not rubber. Remember you Lancer EX owners, if this happened to you, the number of grooves in the CV joint are as follows. Outer - 28 Inner - 30 The important thing is that it is not possible to count the inner number of grooves of the existing CV joint without cutting it open. Once that is done, there is no turning back obviously. So, to remove the CV joint, first part that is holding the ball bearings have to be cut open and the bearings should be removed one by one. Once that is done, the outer cup can be removed. Thereafter you have to carefully cut the part that is fixed to the axel without harming the axel. This is a very delicate job. One mistake, you have to replace the entire axel. This took some time to do. Finally all came out and the new part went in without any trouble. Installed the left CV first and started the right one, surprise, surprise... that boot is not broken. It was some oil and dust which had given the looks of a broken boot. So we greased it and fixed it back. All in all this should have been a few hours job but extended up to 6 in the evening due to the issues stated above. The labour cost was Rs.5k. Now everything is ok. I'm in two minds whether to return the spare CV joint or keep it with me for future use if needed. Have to get the alignment done now. Thats it. So gents, I hope you'll learn from my mistakes if the need comes. Do share your thoughts. Cheers!
  7. 4 points
    LANCER EX- Life before me Found an awesome set of old clicks of my lancer courtesy of my good friend Elnino. It seems she had quite an eventful life before settling down with me in my remote village. Thought of sharing some pics to have a glimpse of her past.
  8. 4 points
    Servicing the EC: The DIY job I thought of sharing my experiences of DIY job of servicing the 2018 Mitsubishi Eclipse Cross Changing oil Tools you need to do this Job 1. 17 mm socket : To remove the oil draining nut 2. Oil filter removal tool : 68 mm 14 flute (Cap type)Ratchet 3. 10 mm socket: To remove engine cover : Bottom 4. Ratchet 5. Torque wrench: Handy to have it 6. Hydraulic Jack 7. A set of Vehicle stands Make sure to run the vehicle for at least 5 minutes before servicing Jack up the vehicle: Hint: Be mindful about the Jack up position Support the Jacked up vehicle using two vehicle stands: Safety first Remove the bottom cover of the engine: There are 4 screws (10 mm) and 4 plastic fasteners need to be removed. I hate removing plastic fasteners. Anyways, if you get it done in a service station there is a quite a chance to loose these nuts or break Unscrew the oil filler cap Unscrew the oil draining nut: 17 mm. Make sure to keep a container on the ground to collect waste oil. Once oil is drained: unscrew the filter using the filter remover tool. After all old oil is drained screw (install) the new filter You have two choices of filters, either go for the Genuine Filter made by Tokyo Roki (Mitsubishi Part number MD360935) or VIC C-415 Filter. The same filter is used for Mazda too. However, I am really skeptic about the VIC filters as I bought a VIC filter for my EC some time ago (around 3 months). When I checked that before installing I noticed that the filter body is corroded (see the figure below). Without taking a risk for a narrow margin I thought of going for the Genuine Filter (VIC : around Rs. 1000, Genuine for UM: Rs. 2,200.00) Before installing the filter, apply a layer of engine oil on to the rubber gasket of the filter also clean the surfaces filter mount. When tightening the oil filter, make sure not to over tighten it. What I usually do is tighten using the hand until the gasket (rubber seal) get contacted well. Put a mark on the filter using tip-ex. Tighten ¾ round ( or one round ), such a way that the white-dot made by tip-ex, travels ¾ round (or one round). Tighten back the oil draining nut. It is recommended to use a new washer with when re-using the nut, however I could not find it in the market L. Tighten the nut for around 39 Nm (anyways, do not over-tighten if you do not have a torque wrench). I am using my torque wrench adapter for that !!! Now we are set to refill the oil. I use Valvoline Full Synthetic OW-20 (Rs. 6400) Pour oil in: Using a funnel to ensure you don't spill oil on the engine hood. If you do spill any oil, be sure to clean it up with a cloth or paper towel. Pour around 3.5 L and check out the dip-stick oil level (I must say, its really difficult to see the oil level using the Mitsu dipstick especially with new oil) If the oil level is in-between min-max, crank the engine and run for couple of minutes. After that, re-check the oil level in the dip-stick and Keep adding small amounts of oil and re-checking with the dipstick until the oil level is between the markers. Once you're happy, close the oil filter cap. check the oil draining nut and the oil filter for any leaks. Fix the engine bottom cover, and close the hood. Better check the oil level in the very next day!!!!! Cleaning the air filter Remove the air-filter and clean any dirt using the vacuum cleaner. Make sure to pass (suck air) from air input side of the filter (bottom). If the air filter is too dirty, replace with the new one (Around Rs. 7000.00, the Genuine one) Check the level of coolant. Check the level of coolant (mine, coolant level dropped to min after running 10,000 km), top-up coolant to max level using Mistsubishi Super Long Life Coolant (premium), around Rs. 3000 for 4 liters) Other things……. Clean/replace the cabin filter Check the conductivity of brake fluid using a brake fluid tester ( you can import one from Ebay) Using a good flashlight, check for any leaks, damages to boots, loosening of nuts. Check the air pressure of 4 tires Rotate tires once in 8000 – 10000 km. I do it by myself, hydraulic Jack and two-vehicle supports are sufficient to do this job. Tighten lug-nuts to 98 Nm. Check the level of Battery water: Though its very difficult to do this J due to the placement of the battery in a very difficult to reach the place. Enjoy the EC for another 5000 km J (of course, make regular check-ups of oil level, coolant level)
  9. 3 points
    Facebook group motoring mentality; summarized Everything you own does 30kmpl or you are not cool Everyone owns a beast or a babe Everything second hand is bad Car salesman have a right to make the cheapest offer, yet sell for extortion prices. A seller has to agree, Everyone wants WhatsApp pics of a classified. car salesman can facelift, but if the first owner does it, it’s a wreck 0w20 from salad to lube to engine oil. Used Turbo cars are bad, but everyone wants to Turbo their car for a premium. A newer Suv or car from 2010s 2012s are finicky, got electronics and must go cheap, whereas old pajeros and land cruisers that have been to the moon are quoted absurd figures. Every sports car or rare car has no book - commenters the group moderator or admin is a self proclaimed god of motoring.
  10. 3 points
    I don't get it....why would the cars one person can buy for Xmil Rs. be any different from the cars another person can buy for the same budget ?
  11. 3 points
    Updated list! Add more if you guys know something I missed. One thing is for sure, our future generation cant complain about the lack of enthusiast cars in the country!
  12. 3 points
    Getting back on track..I do believe that before anything else the government needs to introduce proper (and stringent) vehicle inspection process to make all vehicles actually road worthy. Then introduce a proper road tax system which would encourage people to actually use eco friendly and energy efficient cars. Following that....just change the import duty structure to something more reasonable and less complicated and less asinine. If the road worthiness inspection is stringent on one hand it will discourage car sales people from bringing in junk (which is what the 3 year age limit was suppose to stop anyway..anti-dumping), make the roads safer on the other hand, and on the extra hand they can be bit more lenient on the age restriction of the car. This is pretty much what UK, Aus and Japan does. You can bring any aged car in to the country, but if what you bring in is junk you have to spend a lot to get it road worthy (thus even if it is old people are only going to bring in decent condition units) and then because of the old tech and the eco harm who ever buys one has to spend a lot in road taxes. So those who do bring in old cars are usually enthusiasts bringing in decent cars...not bargain hunters. Needless to say the public transport system needs to be improved for this to be effective....but perhaps if the taxes are introduced the government can be made to be a little bit more proactive about fixing the public transport service. Besides..the government can make a lot more money from people using the cars than those importing new ones....but then there is going to be a whole lot of the population who are going to be yelling and screaming about their personal freedoms being violated. This actually would not mean that they cannot afford a car...in fact they would be able to afford a decent a car....it is just that they are discouraged from using it on daily basis (and they shouldn't have to...we all pay taxes..the government should give us cheap transportation rather than buying themselves luxury barges)
  13. 3 points
  14. 3 points
    No they had 0w20 semi synthetic blend in the early 2010s, for the early pruises I think. the black can, I had one lying around as well. They do bring the new white can, with 0w20 synthetic. What they recommend is what I mentioned. Of course the consumer has the choice and the risk. Besides, recommendations aside, if one understands the concept of multi grade oils and relation to ambient temperature and operating temperatures we wouldn't be having this discussion here. Some genuises have been advising to use 0w16 for the vezel, I'm not sure what the specced oil was but the math suggests its 5w30, several cars belonging to a company fleet underwent engine overhauls at a popular hybrid specialist due to premature bearing failure and worn piston rings. I know the owner of the fleet who is a big time cheap skate used a cheap variant of oil commonly available in the market. Paid almost 1 mil for the overhauls, 3 vezels engine opened and one yaris for sludge formation. 10000km oil changes. Wouldn't happen with the correct oil. Even if it was mineral oil. We have palath sabah pajeros running 20000km per change on DS40 since 1989, Early 90s they ran monograde oils and even then now nearing 400,000km and bore still standard, big end untouched, engine not seen daylight other than the oil drain nut being re threaded occasionally.
  15. 3 points
    In a parallel mini universe: @Hyaenidae trying to overtake @Magnum
  16. 2 points
    Wain red thama market wadi macho
  17. 2 points
    Well..if you want more stars for non media star list....our very own @Komisiripala's Integra; a few 2JZ X-Chassis cars, two BEAMS powered AE85s (one already running and another one being done up), the Sylvia powered only "AE86" Trueno in the country. Lets not forget J. Wahab's 20 series Celica running a Silvertop 4A-GE (plus another sweet ride being done up as we speak)
  18. 2 points
    So its 2020. We have a whole bunch of fancy cars in the country. Most were brought down in like 2018. Ferrari's are lined up in a car sale next to a prado, Lambos for the rich wives etc etc So what do you think is the fastest production car in Sri Lanka? Also the fastest non factory. Just tryna get the thel higanna threads drowned
  19. 2 points
    Yes machang, this should be kept in mind at all times. Shouldn't take a chance. I'm unable to watch the video at the office, Will take a look at this when I go home. This repair came at a very difficult time for me as I already had spent just over 50k for the tune up plus the petrol filter replacement and my insurance also had to be renewed in this month. I hope by sharing this, someone else will be able to avoid facing these kinds of preventable repairs in future.
  20. 2 points
    @Hyaenidae @fiat fan every stick shift loving enthusiast can now get tapped!
  21. 2 points
    @ramishkad I got mine done at “Perera wheel alignment center” in battaramulla. My experience was pretty much positive with them as the wheel alignment operator knew exactly what he was doing and he took his time to complete the job.
  22. 2 points
    This is a very nice potential budget where you're looking at a multitude of 90's cars. Let's talk about your choices - very hard to find EG8s in good condition now cos they've changed hands between wannabe racers and now completely ruined same applies for the Lancers and the EK3's to a lesser extent so you still can find a rare unit in decent condition. If the modding potential is not a big condition you can also consider slightly more 'boring' variants like Mazda 323/Familia - you can get a good specimen for the price range. If hatches are your thing you can consider a Starlet - which I admit is overpriced due to the whole Sri Lankan Toyota Loyalism but a good EP82 is well within budget there's a massive community in SL and parts are aplenty so maintaining one will be a breeze. Corolla2's (windy) Ceres etc all come into the equation. This is something i wanted to suggest as well - The P11 is a true 90's car with the good old Nissan genes and they're not on the boy-racer radar so you can find a really good car... Sticking with Nissans there are Pulsars, Preseas and (lucino - maybe not) If i was on the market for a car at this budget I'd probably go for a Primera honestly. frankly there are too many choices here - so try to go for what you really like (EK3/Lancer CK) keep the Primera's etc as backup options don't stick to one car go and see a few test drive etc...I'd skip the EG8 tho personally 90's cars make my mouth water so I'm looking forward to seeing a thread on what you brought. Good Luck.
  23. 2 points
    Has the gearbox oil ever been changed?? If people bother to change fluids on time and carry out periodic preventive maintenance then there should be no need to contend with a large repair at such a low mileage Just because the shifting is a little pronounced jumping to a conclusion that the gearbox needs to be repaired is premature and excessive I feel. As @CNX said, have a sound qualified professional at recognized outfit (the agents even) have a look at it. Don't give them ideas saying the gearbox is broken because people will happily try to sell you a reconditioned box with no mileage provenance if they know you're trigger happy and uninitiated.
  24. 2 points
    You can't predict for another 5 years.Look what happen to the second hand market when raize was introduced suddenly.What if toyota decided to release a better one in the coming years.raize hype will be gone and you loose anyway.If you want to minimize the loss then go with toyota.
  25. 2 points
    No, even the 2016/17 facelift had an automatic transmission (for the 1600CC version). The only major mechanical difference made since 2007 was the engine upgrade they did in 2012 (4A91 to 4A92) few minor differences were made along with the engine change: the exhaust was redesigned: 4A91 Exhaust: 4A92 exhaust: EPS was replaced by HPS. I've heard that the exhaust manifold is also different, no idea what the difference is
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