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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/22/2019 in all areas

  1. 11 points
    Toyota Gorilla Ashkio 141 japan modal (not thaiwan) ,Bajj intariyal ,winkel miraar, pul opshan, baket shit, lady doktar owning, ganuin milaj 69,000 km. Hand 10,00,000 /- pinans 53,000 *48, Susuki avery badi van sexchange conisadared.
  2. 8 points
    Its like taking a grandma to midn*ght [email protected]
  3. 4 points
    Friends, one of my colleagues is searching a Toyota sedan. He was new to vehicles and he was respecting one mechanic known to him. That mech fellow told our guy that "Toyota Gorilla" is a good car and find one.....:). He is now chasing after me to find that.....:). Is there anything such Toyota Gorilla released around 2006 ~ 2009? Don't know whether these guys referring to Corolla or something.....:)
  4. 4 points
    Let’s raise white flags on our rides to mourn the loss of lives
  5. 3 points
    Chiming in here the AC in my 2018 Civic Hatch stopped cooling as well. Turned out the condenser had massive leaks in multiple places. Car had only done 5000 Kms. Got a new condenser and had to refill R1234yf gas. Total cost 130K!! Seems to be an inherent problem with inferior materials used on the condenser. A quick search says that this is a common issue. Also as the car is low to the ground and has a front grille that has large openings the condenser can be prone to debris damage. May be worthwhile for anyone buying a new civic to get this checked out before taking delivery from your importer.
  6. 2 points
    Bodywork started after disassembling almost all parts. Remain only the outer shell of the car with wiring harness which can not pullout easily. Gauge 14 & 18 zinc coated metal sheets used for most places. Firstly cut the right side of the chassis and welded new bar. Then the left side and floor board plates one by one. All door bottoms, front and back wings repaired. Mean time door hinge pins refilled at a lathe workshop. Finally attached all doors and wings again to check the aligning. Carbide 9kg and a oxygen cylinder consumed for this works.
  7. 2 points
    This reminds me of a mechanic who said about Isuzu ගාමිණී (where he was referring to Isuzu Gemini) regards, JC
  8. 2 points
    Seems you are reading more adds on that quick site everyday.
  9. 2 points
    yes it's a good car. As you are looking at a 3 year old car there will not be any major mechanical issues in the near future - unless it's horribly hacked which is unlikely for a mazda since majority of mazda users apparently take good care of their rides. Regular maintenance cost is on par with any new car.
  10. 2 points
    1. You do realize that the related companies became related because they wanted the Toyota HSD know how right ? Thus, after they become related it really does not make sense to say it does not count. As for your article....the website is not the most well balanced or unbiased websites around. They have a strong following of skeptics and doomsday followers and they have openly indicated that they have strong interest in Teslas economic success (so when they say don't fall in to Toyotas trap...can't one just as easily say that Tesla has interest in maintaining EV only vehicle's success rather Hybrids let it be gasoline or FCVs ?) A few notes: 1. The tech is not stated to be able to be used in EV vehicles because Toyota has not used it successfully in EV vehicles. No one has. Thus, it would not be in their best interest to say it can be used in EVs. 2. What fee-based services ? The patent is free....and for further development the technical assistance is FREE. 3. Toyota has not gained traction in the EV market thus they have been cozying up with the Chinese for ages. The CH-R has an EV variant, the Chinese Corolla is supposed to be next, etc...the other EV vehicles around the world have been small-scale. Also, it is interesting to know that the website does not site the fact that one reason Toyota lost out on the EV race was because of what the American gas industry did in the late 90s (where Toyota first developed the EV RAV4...). 4. Japanese manufacturers believe that Hybrid and EV vehicles are transient technologies and that the next long term step would be fuel cell vehicles along with a shift to personal mobility devices and large volume transport solutions. So they have no interest in prolonging Hybrids indefinitely. In fact Toyota and Honda are investing heavily in Japan with the government in setting up Hydrogen stations....Any country's or company''s positioning on the technology scale is cyclic....so it is natural for a certain company or country to be at the low end of technology spectrum whilst another is ahead until the next step comes in. 4a. Toyota's explanation as to not do complete EV vehicles by themselves has always been a matter of production volumes. They have always claimed that they have the capacity to build only a few tens of thousands of EV vehicles but a few 100 of thousands of Hybrids (i suppose this is in terms of batteries); and that their assessment is that the number of Hybrid vehicles will provide more ecological benefits than a few thousand EV vehicles (i.e. they will be selling more gasoline vehicles as lesser eco friendly vehicles). Of course the legitimacy of this claim can be questioned (how eco benefit was calculated etc...) 5. Yes cars have shorter life spans. But that does not mean neither Euro nor Japanese nor Korean manufacturers have reduced their R&D processes and compromised quality. The Europeans did that in the past....the Japanese did that in the 2000s and it did not work for either one of them. When R&D processes were short (or manufacturers were in a rush to put out technologies) all of them had issues of quality. They have changed that now for the most part not by compromising R&D but by developing long lasting, evolving platforms (Mazda started it with the SkyActiv) and partnering with other manufacturers. No one spends long R&D time on things that do not matter like cup holders or plastic components. They (all of them) spend time on long R&D on things that matter...like engines, etc...but for the record..you should also know that designing the structure of something that seems as trivial like a cup holder is not as simple as it seems. So it is not a valid statement to say R&D cycles have compromised quality. At the end of the day..you need to except that all these companies are there to make money. None of them are charities (they do charitable work but not charities). Thus, their financial sustainability always comes in to play (and Tesla pretty much play the game by projecting themselves as the disruptors and trying to be the Robin Hood amongst them). In the long term..the biggest issue all these companies face is that the younger generations are moving out of cars...
  11. 2 points
    Hi All, Hope all you members, families & friend of yours are safe after Sunday's massacre. Please stay safe.
  12. 2 points
    I don't know if you are being sarcastic or being completely oblivious. 1. Price conscious motoring....does not mean using a tuk tuk or uber....by this statement you are also implying that people in SL buy cars for wanting to be exorbitant. Also...cars like the Axio, Prius are not pricey cars...they are pricey in Sri Lanka because of stupid policies. You seem to be missing that when comparing Mercs and Toyotas.... 2. The ICE Civic is a ICE ! Pure Gasoline engine....why on earth would a sane person compare that with a Hybrid ? It is also obvious that you are oblivious to developments that are happening with model changes. The Civic (which is a pure gasoline only model) went turbo charged with the change of model. The Corolla with the change of model is also going turbocharged with its pure gasoline engines and Hybrid line up will be separate. This seems to be the general strategy for Toyota (and even Nissan and Honda) when and where feasible, some markets will still have the large capacity pure gasoline engine purely for maintainability sake. Most of Toyota's turbo know-how had been improved through the BMW and Subaru partnerships....and the other's Hybrid tech has been improved via Toyota's Hybrid know-how. So it goes both ways (if you had read any of my previous posts you would know that Toyota's HSD patents are free for use) 3. It is not a matter of holding out. Holding out serves no purpose to anyone..including themselves...them holding out and then putting out old technology is not going to make them any more richer. The Japanese have always been conservative when it comes to rolling out automotive tech. They have always been so and always will be. They play a long R&D game along with waiting and watching what happens to others and their tech...The classic statement "The US/West will invent it, Japanese will improve it and Chinese will mass produce it cheaply" still holds.
  13. 1 point
    The 5L version Prado wasn't offered in Japan as it was designed for the developing markets. It was meant to be a low maintenance, cheap to run Prado and if i'm not wrong it came with lesser features as well. Which version of Prado do you have? Is it the KDJ150? Some people advice not to tune/remap ECU of vehicles with 1KD due to some reason relating to the injectors but one of my friend got a remap done for Hiace and so far it's fine
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    I've been on one - has a bit of a lorry vibe to it not uncomfortable per se. Looks tough don't think you can buy one for 6.5 tho. irage, The land cruiser nomenclature [at least locally] has always been confusing to me - there's the 70 series and then the 80'series and then there are export models, jdm models, sahara's and so on and on. I think OP is after the 90 series because he mentions 65 or early english numbers- I have not seen 70 series come with 65 plates or early english numbers. Since these were not military models maybe there are lesser cut and buds on this? No idea though. Tagging @tiv here to get some more info about the monteros.
  16. 1 point
    please calm down, I never said foreign spouses should not get Sri Lanka PR. At least in the west (EU), it is mandatory to show sufficient official-language skills of the country where the applicant LIVES even on a spouse visa. If he's out for more than 2years,it will be reset. This measure is to protect the local culture and ensure ALL foreigners integrate properly in to it. I also checked out the Japanese conditions, .https://visa-immigration.net/info/permanent-residence nothing seems to be mentioned about spouse visa, its only about "benefits to Japan"(tax..) from the person. so yes I agree that the PR should be available in SL, but first the authorities have to study and implement requirements similar to other developed countries. After all what is wrong with asking foreigners who want to settle down here to learn Sinhala or Tamil? It will even help them to understand our society and how things move here.
  17. 1 point
    Bumping up the newest Insurance related thread for a reminder. Make sure your insurance has the terrorism clause included. I checked with my insurer and it turns out it's not covered for acts of terrorism. As per the insurance guy they had removed the 'terrorism clause' in recent times. Since it seems the bad old days are back it's better to get your insurance policies updated.
  18. 1 point
    Not a pug fan, but I’ve always loved their aesthetics in this country 2 things are certain, you ll loose money on it when disposing it you ll loose money on it whilst maintaining it. In comparison to popular counterparts. Thus the decision is yours, Being a Euro itself outweighs the above.
  19. 1 point
    Prices of mechanical pars are a bit high as tiv mentioned. and most of the time you have to source from the agent. Front prop shaft would cost you 100K above - the rear almost double that price - the replacement would come around 80-100,000 kms. Even the rear spare wheel cover is expensive. So it would not be a low cost maintenance vehicle. being a 1.5 L engine on a largish car would mean extra strain on the engine hence will do around 8 KMPL. Other than that it's a simple old school car .
  20. 1 point
    Is everyone here safe from yesterday's incidents?
  21. 1 point
    The most unrefined petrol car I’ve driven - Vitz KSP130 3cyl 1.0l
  22. 1 point
    I own an Axio 141 (2007) with a 135,000km. So here are some of my knowledge on engine tune up which I've learnt on YouTube & forums along with the experience on my car. Tune up is a maintenance to make the car run RIGHT. Which is to increase performance, fuel efficiency & to reduce future repairs. 1. Changing engine oil. Change ur engine oil every 5,000 to 6,000 km. Always remeber engine oil is cheap but engine repairs are very expensive. I use 'Mobil 2000, semi synthetic 5W30' apprx 3.3 litres. I buy oils & filters at Panchikawatta (Mobil 2000 oil 1L 1200/=, VIC oil filter 1,000, toyota air filter 3,500 & cabin air filter 1,000) and i change it at a service centre for just 500/=. This way i save around 3,000 to 5,000 if i had it done at a service centre. 2. Oil additives. I've added Liqui Moly 'Ceratec' to my engine on my last oil change after lots of research on YouTube & reviews so i used abt 3.1 litres of 5W30 + 190ml of ceratec. I was pretty happy & satisfied with the results. Engine started to run alot smoother & quiter (less vibration even when starting a cold engine, quite idle plus my fuel economy has improved). This costs 3,600 yet its a long term investment which its effects might last upto another 3 or 4 oil changes. I highly recommend. 3. Filters. Its very important to change ur filters at the right intravels for optimal performance. Use OEM filters. Dont buy cheap oil & air filters to save money. Change ur oil filter on every oil change intravel and ur air filters if their dirty. Cz clean air filters helps to breathe clean uninterrupted air to the engine in return it gives performance & good fuel economy. Next is ur cabin air filter. Its very cheap so that u can change it at every oil change intravels for a cleaner A/C. 4. Throttle body & MAF sensor. This is a very simple DIY maintenance to improve cars fuel efficiency, performance & engine tune though many forgets. Just buy a Throttle body cleaner spray and a MAFS cleaner/Contact cleaner would cost 2,500 for both or less. There are plenty of videos on YouTube so plz refer before starting. Do the cleaning on every oil change intravels for keep ur car at its optimal performance. Trust me it will make a great improvement. 5. Fuel system. I've had very good experience of using Liqui Moly Injection cleaner (900/=) poured directly in to the fuel tank. Had noticeable changes in throttle response & a smoother idle with increase in fuel economy along with internally it helps to clean fuel injectors & more (I've used it before i add the ceratec so i know it made a difference, hence now with ceratec i see the same differances without it so i knw ceratec works good too! But to clean ur fuel system this cleaner would definitely helps). I suggest it to use it on ur every oil change or as the company suggests to use every 2,000km. But all i can say is that it works! 6. Spark plugs. Just check ur spark plugs at a service centre. Usually they lasts from 50k to 100k km depending on the driving conditions. So change them if needed. It only cost around 2,000 per spark plug. Hense bad spark plug means poor performance & bad fuel consumption. I changed & the results were just amazing. 7. Others. Good tyres. Tyre pressure. Coolant. Wheel alignment. Hope these would help. Good luck
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    An expat (including an ex-Sri Lankan) needs to apply for a work permit to work in Sri Lanka. If you are a foreigner married to a Sri Lankan or a ex-Sri Lankan citizen, its usually easy to obtain that work permit. In fact, its pretty easy for an expat to obtain a work permit for Sri Lanka, as long as a reputable organization employs them. An expat employee will have to contribute to EPF, ETF and income tax similar to a Sri Lankan employee. In addition, as I recall there's additional tax of around 10% on the income of an expat (I am not sure if its still in effect).
  25. 1 point
    Storing a car: 1. Clean the garage where the car is stored. If possible, remove all cans, bottles, junk, paper etc out of it. Sweep the floor. This is to get rid of rats, which may have already settled in your garage and to get rid of the dust and dirt. Never park the car outside, unless you have absolutely no choice. 2. Wash and vaccum the car once. This will remove dirt like crow droppings, which may damage the paint if it stays on the body for too long. Vaccuming will remove any dirt in the car, particularly food particles such as 'kadala', which may start smelling and attract insects. It will be a good idea to wax it too. 3. Get a trickle charger and connect to the battery. If its an old car (without an ECU), you don't need to do this. You can just disconnect the battery terminals. If you can't do this, make sure the battery is fully charged and its good enough to hold a charge. 4. Some websites will tell you to fill up on petrol. Don't do this. Petrol in Sri Lanka already contains water and chances are that water will vaporize. Also if the car is left in storage for long, fuel rails may get corroded due to the water in petrol. 5. If possible, remove the tires and place the car on jack-stands. If a tire loses all air in it, it might become permanently damaged. You may have to replace the tire(s). This will also remove the strain on the suspension. However, if you are storing the car for just a month or two, you don't need to do this. 6. Keep the handbrake OFF. If you keep it on, you will definitely get a brake bind. Place bricks behind the tires (if you didn't remove them) to prevent the car from moving. 7. Block the air inlet and exhaust pipe. This will prevent rats going in to the car. 8. For a relatively old car, apply some lithium grease (not petroleum grease) on door hinges and similar mechanisms. This is also optional. You don't need to do most of these things if you can start and move the car for a short distance, at least once a week. When starting a car after storage: 1. Give a good look at the surroundings of the car. Check if birds haven't made nests and cats haven't give birth on the wheel wells, under the engine or inside the rims. 2. Open the bonnet and check for evidence of rats. Look for droppings, chewed belts, signs of shavings of plastic. Check the air filter for any damage. 3. If you covered the air intake and exhaust pipe, make sure these are removed. 4. Check the fluid levels - engine oil, gear oil, brake oil, water. Peek under the car to see if you can spot any oil leaks. 5. Check the battery voltage and tire pressure 6. Start the car and run it in idle for a few minutes before moving. Check for misfires during this time. Most likely the engine will misfire due to water in petrol but hopefully it might go away after few minutes on idle.
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