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  1. 14 points
    Well it's almost an year now so a quick update on what has happened. Ive done 12500 kms at this point and the car has had two oil changes as well as a wheel alignment done by now. By this point the civic is as common as the flu now. Fuel Consumption The most asked question still, and at10,000+ kms we are well past engine break in etc and we can have a fair idea on actual fuel figures. The 12,500 Km mostly consists City driving, a bit of expressway, and the once a month outstation trip. Overall fuel consumption is about 10KMPL. If further elaborated on average City fuel consumption stands around 8 -9 Kmpl. In the suburbs and outstations it will do anywhere between 10-12. Anomalies being about 15 (6L/100Km) on expressways and on smooth sailing road trips like Trinco. The Ground Clearance Issue Honestly, I was worried about this at the start but it doesnt seem to be a big issue. One thing I noticed is that the suspension is much firmer on the Civic hence the lowering of the car even with a load is much less. On one instance I took a slightly elevated railway crossing at a bit of speed (my bad) I thought I may have sightly nicked the Muffler but I really could not see any damage at all and I wasnt sure I heard a slight sound. But as @Magnum (who drives a ground huggin' HiAce) says over time you get used to be aware of your cars height and drive accordingly. The Wide wheels also help on pothole ridden roads as they hardly fall into them...The small unpaved road leading to my house is in a horrible condition (due to a combination of Trucks hauling stuff to the neighbours house under construction+ the never-ending rain ) there are deep nasty ruts that my other ride ( EP71 Starlet) with its tiny wheels fall into but is never a problem for the Civic. Are the gizmos giving trouble? The automatic braking might end up being a life saver but on day to day drives it can be bothersome. The whole thing is over dramatic and the braking is sudden and violent. When a biker suddenly moves in and the auto break kicks in its sudden, violent and introduces the risk of Madushani who was tailgating you in her Honda Dio ramming you from behind. Proximity Sensors are actually helpful specially when parking (the car is wider than your Aqua/Fit etc ) there is though a mild annoyance that has happened to me half a dozen times in an entire year. The front proximity sensor goes bonkers and starts beeping in heavy rain even when theres nothing in front. A forum member suggested that a misaligned License plate could be the culprit - I haven't investigated that yet since I've not seen this behaviour lately. The Rain Sensing Wipers tend to over react sometimes working full speed when theres actually not much rain. All these of course can be manually changed. Automatic Stop Start might not be a good idea for our local traffic and some users complain of the 12V battery prematurely dying. Remember this is no hybrid so the entire stop start cycle is handled by the battery alone ... Also it can be frustrating when your engine stops and you get green in heavy city traffic. I usually turn this off. Adaptive Cruise control and Lane Keep Assist work like a charm. The sensors detect vehicles moving into your lane as well. The motion sensor inside the car will detect movement inside the car when its locked and will start to create a racket - the idea behind this is to prevent locking in a kid or a pet. Almost every Civic user has had the surprise of the alarm going off due to a couple of flies getting trapped in the car. This also can be turned off. Performance I've seen some people assume the car to be slow due to the tiny engine and turbo lag but actually I feel the CVT is the biggest disappointment but in reality I'd settle for the slightly lethargic CVT than getting continuous DCT issues down the line. To have some fun turn Eco Mode off and switch to Sports mode - you can use the paddle shifters but to be honest the paddle shifters are more or less a simulation...CVT and paddle shifters are really not an ideal combo. Another thing I usually do on a cold start is to leave the engine running for a bit (2+ minutes) before actually moving. Do not rev too hard initially. The handling is really nice - the car is made for open roads and long road trips. I drive on E03 regularly and enjoy taking the bends - the car feels really solid and planted. Braking is good. I've seen videos of folk test the cars limits by driving 200+ km/h, braking at high speed etc (mostly on E03) its dangerous and illegal. Mods done Nothing much actually all I've done so far : *Alloygators (19K at the Meguiars place ) * Nano coating (45K ) * Transparent protective film on the Door steps Overall Verdict : A year of trouble free happy motoring. Yes this is no hybrid and requires 95Oct. But thats a small trade off for a rather complete car for a sub 6Mill budget(SR). The car is a bit wide for a hatch (probably in Mazda 6 territory) so you are better off avoiding those mysterious little by-roads google maps suggest. This is no Wagon R .The car will not double up as an SUV so if you regularly travel on some remote jungle path this is not the car for you. If you live in a narrow tuk tuk lane and drive 20Km in heavy traffic you are going to appreciate the legroom and seat position but not getting to enjoy the car that much. The car is at home on the open roads and highways. A slightly wide, attention seeking drama queen thats quite easy to live with.
  2. 7 points
    Painting was a most challenging field for me. Because never attempt to do a vehicle paint job earlier other than painting walls in the house . But I have watched (not seen) many times how a painter working from applying filler to last coat. There is a neighbor who do paint jobs and that was a big strength for me as it is possible to clarify somethings from him. So finally decided to learn the art of painting by Moggie. Gathered the basic knowledge from reading some articles and found following video very informative. Also these two technical books. How To Paint A Car At Home In 4 Easy Steps (video)  Causeway Automotive Paints (pdf) Debeer Paints (pdf) Next challenge was a paint gun and a air compressor. Bought a F75 paint spray gun and some flexible hose after expending around Rs 2500. But a air compressor is bit expensive. So again started to find alternatives. Firstly bough a 'paint zoom paint sprayer'. Though it could use with my spray gun with modified hose, the air pressure was not enough to spray well. So found an old deep freezer compressor and a empty AC gas tank. Used them with a foot air pump pressure gauge and some clips to make my air compressor. What could not find was a safety pressure release valve. So had to keep eye on the gauge frequently. When I get familiar with spray gun, watching pressure gauge was not essential as it can feel pressure via spray flame. Tried to remove existing paint in most body panels as the first job. Because the floorboard was completely new it made my task easy.
  3. 7 points
    During the last 6-7 years, the demand(mostly imports) for the Compact Crossover SUVs have been significantly increased in SL car market. This spark was first ignited by the introduction of Honda Vezel making those crossovers popular among Sri Lankans. Most car buyers started to think that having a compact SUV is pretty beneficial when poor roads scraped the underneath of their Premios, Allions and Axios. Another factor is the low engine capacity of these crossover SUVs, which is a nice invitation to the buyers in a country where almost 95% of the petrol vehicles imported have an engine capacity below 1500cc. After sometime the turbocharging craze began with the introduction of Audi Q2, Honda Civic 10th gen and Toyota CHR. With the help of turbocharging, now the power of a 2000-2400cc engine can be extracted from a 1500cc engine. Since then SUVs like CRV started doing the trick. Now most people in SL have lost their faith on the Honda’s i-DCD hybrid system in Vezel, Fit and Grace. So the Mitsubishi Eclipse Cross was born… Overview We all know that as a vehicle manufacturer, Mitsubishi haven’t been much successful during the previous two decades. Even the Lancer was killed from manufacturing. But when it comes to the Eclipse Cross, seems that Mitsubishi is giving a fierce competition towards other similar SUVs in SL market such as the CRV and Vezel(a subcompact crossover SUV). One major thing that the Eclipse Cross stands above the others are the amount of options available throughout the range. On the CRV we have to step up to the top of the range model to get all the options. But with the Eclipse Cross G and G Plus (which are mostly imported to SL) have almost similar amount of options except for the infotainment system with the touch pad in the G Plus variant. What I drove is a 1.5 Turbo/CVT G variant with full time 4WD. When we talk about the exterior design, without a doubt everyone loves the front end design. Its muscular and sharp, but without being overly flashy like the body kit loaded CHRs. When we walk towards the back, we totally forget what the front end looked like. Totally different compared to the front design and for me it looks kind of awful. It looks similar to something like a Honda Insight, but always reminds me of the Pontiac Aztek (what Walter White drives in Breaking Bad) which is regarded as one of the ugliest cars of all time. But here its better than the Pontiac Aztec, nevertheless most people wouldn’t be happy with the back end looks unlike the front end. But for me, the overall design of the CRV is a bit better and looks bigger than the Eclipse Cross. So let’s move to the interior. Interior Here in the photo, it's the G Plus version, which comes with the factory fitted infotainment system Mitsubishis are famous for having cheap and plasticky looking interiors from the past. But here they have a much better interior design. It looks better and richer than what we have seen in the Outlander, which is a bit boring and less attractive with a plain design. The silver inserting with the combination of the piano black plastic panels certainly gives a rich and upmarket feel and for me, it’s the best interior I’ve ever seen from a Mitsu. But remember that those piano black panels are easy to get scratched and attract fingerprints. Dash design of the Eclipse Cross is much sportier than what you get in the CRV, even though CRV with those teak panels looks more premium(but dull) despite the awful placement of the gear shifter. If you plan to bring down one, better to go with a fully loaded one which has done few kilometers in Japan, because adding options such as sunroof and leather seats additionally cost around 400,000 LKR. The driving position is spot on with all the controls are in easy to reach positions. The position feels sporty with the steering wheel setup and the height really gives the confidence and “king of the road” feeling. This design gives you the feeling that everything is wrapped around you. All doors have soft padded armrests and plenty of spaces to store bottles and your stuff. There is a head up display which shows the speed and the digits look a bit small for me. Seats are comfortable with good side support, but they are on a little firm side. Plenty of headroom and legroom are there for all the passengers I never found it lacking space, specially in legroom department. The standard 6 speaker audio system is great when you compare with the systems you get from Toyotas. Has thumping bass (which most owners in SL are looking for) but the vocals are a bit laid off and lacks the top sparkle in the trebles. Overall most people would be in love with the system. You can squeeze out the maximum by installing something like a Pioneer or a Kenwood aftermarket player if you have the G or a lower grade. I haven’t come across the in-built unit with the touch pad in the G Plus unit, but it might be better as Mitsus always had good audio systems (mostly in the bass department) in their vehicles from a long time. I still remember cranking up the volume as a kid in a 16 Sri Mirage till the bass hits the chest. There is a one with a Rockford Fosgate audio system but I haven’t come across that system in the JDM Mitsu site. Thus they give you the option to add premium speakers for front and rear, which might be better. There are few disappointments in the interior. One is the Speedometer and the Tachometer. They have been directly taken out from something that was made in 2007-2008. Looks dated and boring as it doesn’t match with whole interior design. For me the boring to drive Toyotas have better looking meter panels even in the 2007 era. Anyway it’s only a little thing. Another problem that I had to face while driving is the Gear position of the Auto gear shift level. The indicators in the shifter panel seems misaligned with the lever and there was few times I have mistakenly put into the N instead of D after starting the car. Maybe this is because I’ve been used to the gate-type shifters. Other than that I personally don’t like the design on the seats. Looks a bit flashy, something like an Alto. So let’s move onto the part which makes this car really stands out among others.. Driving Simple. Best of both worlds. Most compact crossover SUVs have firm suspension (Vezel owners know what I’m talking about), even though they are less enthusiastic on corners. But here it’s a totally different story. I travelled on some bad roads, climbs and on a stretch. Suspension soaks up most of the potholes and imperfections on bad road while keeping the car without swaying. Comfort wise, it’s on par with cars like Axios and better than Aquas, Fits and Graces. But when you push it to a corner it stays flat without much body roll. On cornering you feel that you have plenty of grip even though it sits high. Another thing is that the car feels rigid on corners. Trust me, you can do some really enjoyable driving from this babe! I mean it has the perfect balance between comfort and handling which is a really tricky job to achieve from an economical car like this, while being a crossover SUV. I drove the CRV and for me it feels a bit choppy on bad roads. Steering is a bit of a let down when you consider with the other characteristics, because of being light and numb. But still, it is sharp. Sometimes I felt that it is not nimble as the Vezel (maybe due to the size). Then the engine. When I drove the CRV for a short distance, I noticed that the power is a bit hesitant on the lower end. But when you put your foot down the engine comes to life. I noticed the laziness in the throttle similar to what you get in a Grace or a Vezel when travelling at low speeds. I also mentioned earlier in this forum about how all the Honda i-DCD hybrid systems feel a bit hesitant to start climbing hills, and surprisingly, even being a non hybrid and a CVT, the CRV also waited a second or two to start climbing the same hill. In the Eclipse Cross, power delivery is flawless and feels punchy throughout SL street legal speed limits. I did floor the throttle for a brief time period and ended up speeding up to 120kmph without breaking a sweat. Power is always on demand and surprisingly I did not experience any issue in the acceleration department like the CRV. So thumbs up for the engine performance. But the car that I drive had the full time all-wheel drive system so there might be some improvement in grip and acceleration levels over the 2WD version. Brakes are okay, without any significant feature to highlight. The vehicle is surprisingly quiet on roads with minimal road noise levels, so you hardly feel the actual speed. When we travel around 60kmph gives the feeling of driving at 40kmph, because of this isolation. There is a slight issue and that’s the engine noise. From the outside, the engine is significantly louder than most of the 1500cc cars like Premios and Axios. The radiator fan kicks in frequently worsening the situation. The engine can also be heard as a slight whirling when traveling with a light foot, which seems as a slight noise because only a little amount of road noise is entered into the cabin. So the engine noise is highlighted. So let’s move onto economy. Economy The fuel figures are a bit like a mixed bag. When the car was brought home from Hambantota, on 92 octane, showed a figure of 12.3 kmpl which is a bit on the lower side. After few days, averaged shrunk to 6-7 kmpl territory on 92. It had 2500km on the clock when it reached home and after the 92 ran out, 95 was pumped. Still the car has rarely left the town, but gives a figure around 8.5 kmpl, which is good for a AWD vehicle. Final Words IMO, I think Mitsu have really done something this time after being out of the track for couple of years. For me, this is the best to drive among CRV and Vezel, with a nice balance between comfort and handling. I have not yet driven the Peugeot 3008, which is considered to have a better interior and better driving experience, but most people in SL would look for a Jap made vehicle. The CRV has a much more bigger and muscular looking exterior plus 7 seats, but the Eclipse Cross is better to drive and more comfier. CRV has a kind of premium looking interior with teak panels, while the Mitsu has a modern looking sporty interior. For owners who are looking for a premium feel, I think they are better off with a CRV while the ones who are looking for a sporty yet comfortable ride might be satisfied with the Eclipse Cross. Also the options like the touch pad navigation system, Head-up displays, panoramic sun roof plus the sporty front end design would like to grab attention of most buyers. Still none of us could comment on reliability department as the vehicle is very new to SL. But I will always recommend this over something like a Premio, Vezel or a CHR for bringing down for the permit, because you get car-like comfort and “go anywhere” ability with the Eclipse Cross. Only downside is the fuel economy, but I think it’s a bit early to comment on the exact figures. Therefore it’s always safer to avoid the 4WD versions. But I personally believe that a person who can afford to bring down such vehicle can handle a bit more cost for the fuel. Thank you for reading!
  4. 6 points
    Toyota Vitz 2016 2017 till 19 Well I’m not going to get too technical or sound like the fan club here But it’s a long story. Despite being a popular car, it’s a very bland machine, but has its perks Hence they are like the cockroaches of the current car scene. The car is so popular at the moment that I have seen 2 instances unregistered cars were exchanged for money for the market value and for lands, for debts etc. between businessmen as they considered the vitz to be equal to money in the bank. Well as for my Vitz tale, I purchased a car, yes full cash deal, wife went crazy over it, found the mileage was tampered Raised hell, returned the car, cash refunded got another car used it for 3months, saw a better car being imported , exchanged mine a small loss during the whole sales dip this year, got the new car cheap. so lost a few, gained a few. So tasted both waters 2016 and post facelift 2019 So the popular grades in Sri Lanka are the F and Fm being the entry level , not heard of a U grade car, There is a Gr or an Rs here, not sure and a proper Hybrid Yaris from Australia with a known gent The F has a Start stop model, with a pretty led display and rpm gauge Fm has no power Mirrors and has window winders in the back, and no rear wiper Mostly all these are 1000cc 1KR powered Lesson learnt, Do a through check on auction records prior to purchase of a car, I caught my cars issue through the Jevic reading, it had done 88000km, 2 auction sheets one with the altered odo and the other with the real odo, car read 34000 odd km, and boy it looked new, brand new My trusty mechanic couldn’t tell it was run either. Tyres matched blah blah, they played the game well, do note I will not reveal the seller as post conflict he took the car and refunded every cent, only thing I lost there was about a week of my time. So the vitz is a properly beat up car in Japan, so most here are too good to be true, heavily run. Always secondly go for a Toyota Lanka Inspection even if it’s a car off the factory, just to be safe Exterior Well the basic frame and shape has been here since the 2011 model, but is the 1000cc tax cut that made these models common here, it’s a good looking layout true, Personally I feel the 2016 model looked better and the 2017 odd models look like a scary grandma on the front, the rear looks cool, Especially if you got the led package, it looks like an audi, Headlights are either h4 halogen, horrible or the lovely leds with auto dipping and levelling. The styles are different with the years Also the bumpers are far more securely fastened in the 2017 facelift models but still they tend to hang front and rear both after going in our pillaged roads. So for those with that ocd, it’s never ending, I have it and I know, took apart 3 bumpers, the clips are pristine, the bulk of the bumper and humping the pot holes make them warp a few mm, so u have a noticeable panel gap on the sides. The tail gate is very well thought after, they open with like minimal protrusion from the bumper length, maybe 1 foot at most, and doors open very wide, and easily, handles and mirrors are shared across the whole Toyota line. Mirrors are kinda wide for a small car, so they ding up easy. Remember to buy a few extra lights. Interior, again no ,major difference between the 2016 and post facelift model, just a change in colour schemes, grey to gloss black, jewela had the fancy colors The 2015 model the air vents were different, thereafter they landed with axio style propeller like vents, which break very easy, Do note the multifunction wheel buttons are original in the car only if it has the 6 speaker sound system. The swap is very easy, 20min job cost about 10000lkr, but with Chinese parts, the replacement Chinese ribbons last only few 1000km and show airbag lights. Oem parts cost 80000 odd (may vary) the 6 speaker (tweeter) Seats, Nicely contoured, bit hard, bland fabrics, front headrests are sown into the seat bulk up to the f grades, there are many variations on the vitz line, so nothing is certain. Dealer level upgrades and variations as well There is space, even when you are 120kg The double din gap and the steering wheel I find well designed and well placed, giving it a bit of a dynamic vibe, the rest of the dash is like the designer sketched the aqua dashboard in a hurry. The gauge cluster in the f grade is really dated but does it’s thing ok, nothing to be happy there unless you get the f smart stop or a bigger engine. Most cars here do not have climate control, despite it being fossil parts, it works well, keeps the region cool, yes you loose a bit of low end power and ears hurt a bit more. Light colored roof liner, headrests in the rear, typical Toyota stuff. Leg room is ideal for the size, The door cards and dashboard remind you of a plastic dustbin though, they scratch like a lottery and love dust. Cargo area, quite large actually. Can accommodate the luggage of like 4, seats 4 easy, if you go 5 you gotta be closely related and malnourished. Below the cargo deck there is either a useless puncture kit or a space saver wheel, kit varies with car so I suggest a spare wheel. The jack is hidden under the drivers seat, not in the tray, so note that before your curse the fellow who stole the jack during a puncture Engine and drivetrain Yea so the 1000cc agony, no turbo. No isg, just groaning with the cvt box, Well it pulls, after a while, and if you floor it, it can keep up the guy who overtook you for going too slow and showed you the finger, and if you keep flooring it it can shift down and pass him. It’s just slow to respond, but certainly not a crawler, but no race car either. It’s just enough for traffic, feels brisk between 30kmph and 100kmph, thereafter it just sits. It’s the noise, it’s not like this huge engine revving noise, this is like a blown exhaust, leaking cat or a cow giving birth, something, loud and agonizing, the accelerator pedal is very flimsy, no feel, the car responds late to throttle, thereby it’s like asking a question and waiting for an answer. The vibration is more prominent on the 2016 models, the 2017 onwards ones have a completely different gel mount, we ll get to know more as the cars age. They’ve gone really stingy on the sound proofing on the f grade, so it’s like only 50% sound proof thanks to the engine. Cold starts give you the creeps, it’s that noisy, Reminds you of a 90s elf. So in Japan cars come with 0w20 oil, here Toyota recommends 10w30, there’s 5w30 as well so pick your poison, parts are cheap, the oil change costs between 10k to 16k depending on the joint, with genuine parts and synthetic oil. Approx 3.2l You shouldn’t be driving a car if you don’t know the intervals, Tip- almost all new jdm cars have a sticker under the hood, with oil change spec, so start translating oil change costs like 16k, agents can handle and recommended, at 40000km PCV valves get clogged easily, so keep an eye, same goes for the throttle body. So there are many variants of the 1KR engine, this having the 1KR Fe, The competition, Wigo and the Perodua cars have variants, so if interested dive in, https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_KR_engine The drive, The suspension Well this is why this thing sells so much. The handling is really nice, feels a bit like a hot hatch (before you start cursing just the HANDLING) , but there is zero compromise on the comfort, it’s sedan matching comfort in a cheap hatch, in local context that’s my bottom line here. Road noise is very poorly insulated, has the pathetic dying bird horn, Usually the 14 tyres are chunky, so manage to cushion even more, The ground clearance is PATHETIC, so unless careful, it rubs everywhere, a good option is to fit mudflaps, they make a noise so you won’t bottom it out suddenly The front lip is more or less a sacrificial element, or a painters monthly allowance if you are conscious about the car They have had no concern on driveways and steep descents when they sketched that. As I write this, my car has been parked for 2 weeks as they’ve started meddling with the road. It can manage long journeys with comfort if you have a good stereo and if you drive “Normal” Do note road presence is less, so from biker to bus driver, no one gives a damn and tend to abuse you, being the small car slogan now. Turning radius is like a bicycle, so cops will start to smile while they write you up when you do that illegal U turn Fuel economy is like 11kmpl in traffic, my first Vitz did 18kml in the highway, yet to test the new car, 92Oc is specced, Toyota Safety Sense Impressive bit of tech here, extremely intelligent, doesn’t try to kill you, warns many times before braking, lane Change assist, auto wipers and headlights work very well, I’m sure the high beam algorithm was programmed by a very polite Japanese gent as it never sets high beams, even when it’s needed, good stuff. Pointers not to get yourself screwed Carry a spare wheel Do not go off road, steep slopes and avoid bigger potholes, and rocks on the road, you will feel the impact on your groin and pain on the wallet. If you do well you ll need a new sump or a bellhousing Don’t over load the car. Try to upgrade to factory multifunction steering, or don’t 92 is enough Jewela is just a trim level, gaudy with chrome Avoid FM models, they are like lorries, and used for mostly cargo and deliveries all over Mileage is almost always faux, get a personal import or a TL verified car Or just be very very very thorough, jump all the hoops when buying one. And pray it’s a good one. If you need help with auction sheets, ask It may burn a bit of oil after 50000km ish, Use genuine parts. It’s a crazy platform, we get a boring variant, like that cousin who became an accountant when the others are cardiologists, astronauts and rock stars Overall it’s a good car, not that refined, reliable, old time true tested stuff.
  5. 6 points
    It is pasted on the back side of the number plate. Remove and see 🙂
  6. 6 points
    ... and this is what ChinaAutoWeb.com has to say about C-NCAP ...at this stage, we find C-NCAP controversial and untrustworthy. Its name misleads many to believe it is similar to, or on a par with, NHTSA’s NCAP (in the US), Euro NCAP, Australia’s ANCAP, or Latin-NCAP, while in fact it is not. and the reasons are: 1. C-NCAP is managed by a private, for-profit entity and not an independent organization 2. C-NCAP tests are insufficient, less strict and based on compromised requirements Despite that @Car Doctor I think you should buy a DFSK 580 (if you havent' done already). We haven't had many Darwin Award nominees in Autolanka lately.
  7. 4 points
    Just wanted to share my experience with vibration on my Vitz 2007, which seems to be very common with most 1000cc models. Got the car in 2010 directly from Japan with 42k odo reading. It's pretty much the only car i've driven except a Honda Fit, and BMW hatchback, and it's hands down the most easiest one to drive! Was really happy with it until the vibration started around 6 months on and i was only getting around 8kms/ltr. At first most people i talked to said that it was normal for a 3 cylinder and common in Vitz so just ignore it and not worry about it. But i knew it wasn't normal because i didn't experience it for 6 months! I just wanted to fix any problem before it got worse. But i was a first time car owner and driver so nobody really took me seriously and since I wasn't the owner (gift from dad) i really didn't have much say about it, so i just ignored it for a few years. Then it got worse... mostly when A/C on, on hot days, on idle at stops (it kinda goes crazy!...) But by this time i had money on my hands so i decided to take it to the most reliable place possible, Toyota Lanka... Oh boy was I wrong!!! 😠Those idiots looked at it and said that a full tune up and new spark plugs should solve the problem. Having no idea about any of that stuff i just went ahead with it but the vibration was still there! Fought with those idiots and returned the spark plugs for full refund! But i was no back to square one...😞 So over the years i tried several different places but nobody could solve the problem permanently... at best i could get rid of the vibration for about 3 months but even then i couldn't isolate what the problem was. After trial and error it seemed to come down to either all or one of the following: proper tune ups, engine mounts, injector cleaning, maf sensor cleaning, throttle body cleaning. Never really was able to isolate to any one these issues because i never made the time to do only one of them at a time... Fast forward to 2019, 88k on the odo (42k over 9yrs), getting closer to 7+kms/ltr, vibration at it's worst, shocks dead (can feel metal clanking noises on bumps), less pulling power. Yes I know i should have sold the damn thing by now 😅 but for the cash... Heard about A**o F***e which is close to where i live, and i knew it was gonna be expensive but after seeing all the racing cars they were working on figured they might know what they were doing so i decided to give it a go. I went in and have been never so freaking happy that they actually figured out what was wrong with the vibration! The tech did a simple test by hoisting the engine on a jack so the weight was off the mounts and it was running smooth! So long story short we changed shocks and mounts, then decided to do an engine gasket overhaul and service the head because the car was woefully under-performing by now as well, and i was also wary of what kind of damage the vibration might have done. Also ended up replacing piston rings, main+thrust+bigend bearings, and cleaned out sludge buildup, among other repairs. The owner (and racer!), Sajaad Zuhair, is a great guy and a good businessman, just talking to him made me want get all this work done... 😅 I've only driven very conservatively within Colombo for 3 days for 75km so far and i have to say that so far, God bless, the vibration is gone. There were even a few moments when i didn't even realize the engine was on! 😢 Don't get me wrong, there is still some vibration in the engine but i believe that's whats normal for a 3 cylinder, not when it used to shake the entire freaking car! As for performance, well i don't really expect much with this engine but to gauge effectively i'll have to wait for a hot day. Here's a few things i learnt from the whole experience: Don't drive right away on a cold start! Always give it about a minute. Don't wait for a year to change engine oil... even if you don't drive much (4700km avg a yr in my case) change in 6 months or less (this may vary with type of oil, climate, etc) Don't go fast on bumps and potholes just because your shocks are doing an awesome job and you don't feel it! You are just wearing out your shocks faster... Don't let an idiot makabaas poke your gel mount with an effing screwdriver!!! 🤬 Don't take the risk with a makabaas if you plan to use the car for a long time! Heck even if you are gonna sell it, don't be a cheapskate and earn the buyer's curse! If you can't afford to get your work done at any reputable and responsible garage, then sell the car use public transport until you save up some money... 😅 *Update after 200+ kms: Vibration at minimal levels 👍 KYB shocks softened up (was stiff after initial install), much smoother ride now! 👍 Noticeably improved acceleration and pulling power, overhaul seems to have paid off! 👍 Unfortunately fuel efficiency shows no indication of improvement so far, will update with proper number after a few more refuels.
  8. 3 points
    Uhh...don't wash it ? Use compress air to blow off dust, etc...and then use a damp cloth or an engine wipe (the towels have a mild cleaner to remove some of the gunk, etc...) to wipe everything off. If you must...use a steam cleaner with a directed nozzle to clean off some grime around the block, engine bay body, etc...but do not directly put it on the electronics/sensors/etc... Engine degereases are intended for cleaning up heavy build up of gunk or oil leaks....using them on a plain engine surface and possibly getting them on rubber and electronic components is a bit over kill and it will spoil it. Also, most degreases require you to wash the degreaser off with water. Not a very wise thing to do. Also, the degreaser and the gunk is going to get on your drive way and it will be a pain to clean it up later on. So...clean engine = air compressor + damp cloth.
  9. 3 points
    Here are some of my pics from the Tokyo Motor Show 2019 https://photos.app.goo.gl/6Mspu5XunABBsK8F8
  10. 3 points
  11. 3 points
    Most probably the same pair can be found in darley road
  12. 3 points
  13. 3 points
    3Km a day mean 1.5Km one way. I would rather walk the 1.5Km and have a fixed deposit from 3.5Mn odd cash saving and hire a vehicle from interest when you go on long journeys. Huge cash saving
  14. 3 points
    Open the bonnet and look for the ABS module/pump. Cars with ABS should have an ABS module. The best way to do this is to first locate your brake oil reservoir. There should be two or three hard lines connected to the master pump (that's the metal unit underneath the brake oil reservoir). Trace those brake lines and if they are routed under the car, then your car doesn't have ABS. If they end up in a box-like unit with a lot of brake lines connected to it (this is your ABS module), then your car has ABS. The ABS module should look like this: Did you see this in the fuse box? If yes, it's normal for to find provisions for optional components such as ABS, Fog lamps and even airbags because manufacturers typically use the same parts for the whole series and install the optional components based on the individual car.
  15. 3 points
    Daily mileage is 3km ? Like three kilo meters ? Why even bother buying a car ? Makes no economic sense what so every.
  16. 3 points
    True...our guys take cars that have squashed in to a pancake and fix it up The thing is..yes...the crash does not seem to be that severe....but it should be made transparent to the buyer so the buyer can make informed decision to either purchase it or walk away.
  17. 3 points
    Hey welcome to the forum. As an ex- GP1 owner I can say it really is a nice car and you get a LOT for what you pay...it has practical written all over it - economical to run as well. at 2.7 it's a steal you can't get that feature set, the practicality for that price - even if you do spend money and fix the oil burn issue. I sometimes still miss my old car BUT this is what's important - you seem to be a car guy and this sort of matters - drive what you like.The FD1 is a different class of car . You are going to enjoy driving this (not that the GP1 is boring to drive ) So here's the thing - why don't you go see both cars for a while try to hitch a good FD1 - keep the GP1 as a backup option if you fail to find a good FD1....give the civic the priority: it's a matter of smiles per liter vs miles per liter. Happy Hunting.
  18. 3 points
    2019 Suzuki Hustler Review Though I had to let it go, this little vehicle made a huge impact on my life, during a difficult time It deserves a review, it was that good, Exterior Well it’s like this, some like it, some don’t, and I didn’t at first We had lost almost 2 mil after buying a leaf, into depreciation, so in retaliation this was the only Reasonable thing I could afford in its place. So giving into my dads idea I did bring her home, It was red with a black roof, on those puny steel rims With time I decided to bin the cute look and make it look a bit macho, Found a set of Suzuki rims, off a sedan, 0.5jj larger making it 5.5jj and increased the tyre size, I’m sure I gained at least 3 to 4 cm in clearance. Added a set of tiny low cop radar led fog lights, as I was frequently traveling to hill stations at the time, and a reverse fog as well. Had to make do with an ornamental roof rack, few carbon fiber wrap work, and matte black paint on the wheels Loud little Hella Horn was fitted as well, window visors, made a little runt of an suv, 2 door of course lol. The factory styling, mine was a G grade, none of the J style bling, but had the fancy led headlights with halos, believe me they turn on when you unlock the car, like a beamer! It was a matte black village, every exterior plastic was matte to give that off road intent, had a small sill trim that extended up to wheel arches as well, Rear bumper was again no nonsense, wrapped very close to the body, with a nice trim in the middle, The bumpers seat very high on these, almost showing off the tyres, giving this rock crawler vibe It was one confused car, The interior, It has this tiny Dox matrix display in the gauge cluster, shows little videos of a hustler going places, adds to the cheer, has a hidden menu, of course in Japanese, has many settings to play with. This is shadowed by the huge speedo, which is the only thing in there Again heavily influenced by the FJ cruiser, painted plastics, very solid gloss, no play, some panels had a miniature chequer plate pattern, to add, 2 glove boxes and one with a kg mark to allow you to place a laptop, There is no center floor console, like on those ancient suvs, one can walk across the driver and passenger areas, upon folding the tiny armrest. Which has a tiny hidden compartment as well. It came with a Chinese head unit, Which I intended to replace but never got the chance, however I installed front and rear cams, for show obviously, as it has so many large windows for its size, you feel like you are in an aquarium, I used to get murdered by my wife for looking at younger models you know! It felt so revealing that I had the 4 door shutters heavily tinted and was cursed by my dad repeatedly when he drove it in the night. It had these tiny quarter windows which I left untinted, cops can get a glimpse of inside, thereby had zero issues! I did manage to upgrade the front speakers with kenwood 2 way speakers, rear door speakers were not there, so did a retrofit of the same, also mounted a set of hertz tweeters to the factory slots, All into the factory wiring. I mean there was nothing marvelous with the sound proofing, but it held the sound well, just enough for usual radio and Bluetooth audio, Mine didn’t have the multi-function steering or cruise control, Auto headlights were ok, self leveling very useful here and there, The space, that is what it was, that tall boy design, it was like a room inside rear seats move back, compromising inside luggage space, but leg room and headroom, again basically a room for 4 No contours on the seats, making them flat, nice pattern, but hard, and waterproof.. Apparently it was designed to have a makeshift bed at any given time, the front passenger seat has a adhered table on the back, so upon folding flat forwards it can be a table. If you do the same with the corresponding rear set, you have a 6 foot is platform, which Suzuki calls a bed, and gosh the accessories they have for this car, 6 brochures! Being a kei , rear cargo room is scarce, but redeemable with angry passengers with less leg room. The luggage area is again heavily cladded with the same mini chequer plate plastic, giving it this premium suv boot feel, and it has these flaps that adjust accordingly to leave a flat surface, Below this deck, you get a rigid foam pack, with the tyre kit, And yes you can fit a 15” space saver in a hustler, matter of sliding the rear seats forward Pull out the foam pack, hide it under your bed, slide the wheel in, then pull the seats back, leg room is reduced by a tiny amount, no one notices it either, the seat tugs the rubber and it is held firmly in. The flaps cover the wheel, and you have the luggage space. It has a nice roof liner, light color, easy to clean, and 2 tIny dome lights Even a 12v socket in the very back , suv cues all over. Rear foot wells are flat, you can basically open the doors and blow the grit away, front may need a vacuum but can survive with a brush, Sadly the hustler comes with a plush oem carpet set, mine were stolen at port, Engine and drivetrain, Well yea with 660cc, cvt and no turbo, one would say it was slow, The difference is the ISG, that thing manages to hold the revs up like an electric turbo, thereby it’s not slow, wagon R owners have told me the hustler is faster, probably the ecu tune as everything else is the same, besides the body and suspension which is entirely different, The 3 cyl engine was a bit noisy, but no vibrations, and idle stop worked with the isg, thereby no start motor noises, it just instantly kicked the engine in The hustler never had the adjuster issue as the engine bay is crazy well shielded from below, unless you wake up from a coma and hose the engine bay no issue there, the gearbox feels fine, just a continuous drive, I mean not fast but no jerks, manages hills easy. Well below the passenger seat on the front, the hybrid battery lives, more or less a house of capacitors, hence why It can be repaired easily. Never had any issues, charged up fully and discharged as well, The fuel economy, I used 92, it was as per spec, it did 20kmpl at most given times, with idle stop off The drive, Well this is the sole reason why I decided to write this review, The drive feels really nice, composed, firm, tad bit of body roll, bumpy suspension Handles very well, It was genuinely fun, going to nuwara Eliya to Kandy In it, it was a memorable trip, climbs are nothing, I mean it doesn’t sprint up but 30 to 40kmh it scoots on, It’s on bad roads and muddy roads that the whole wannabe suv thing comes to play, it has amazing grip and ground clearance, feels like a true off roader, mine was not 4wd either Where I live the roads are being constantly raped by various govt projects, the workers used to smile when I go about in the hustler as it just skips over mud and ruts they pillage on the road, the floor Pan is flat, so it can fair really well, my dad accidentally parked it on the first stair at my local bank, approach angle that crazy! Those tiny wipers do a great job cleaning off mud and rain, What I don’t like, Very little in fact, The smart key, makes a complete fool of the car, tried both keys, halfway across the commutes the car starts looking for the key, so once I flash it near the start button it shuts up, changed many batteries, it’s inherent. The base carpet is very cheap, and easy to tear, they’ve used a heap of ridged foam to make the floor flat, basically every footwell has a ridged foam insert, if you spill it’s going to seep way down, And yea a drunk friend spilt a beer, finally had to take all 4 seats apart and put a nice carpet to cover everything, this helped with the road noise too, a style carpet that was intended for the Kdh. The safety system – sheer hate If a bus overtakes you, the car decides to stop, simple as that, stop in such a way that you , your passengers and the guy tailgating you; all to have a heart attack, no buzzer warnings Also it has this great love for bikers, almost with pure emotion. Does anything to spare a bike, even whilst sacrificing its own butt to the route bus or yoghurt lorry , as we’ve all seen on videos. And seeing the bikers we have here, all the adventurous stunts they perform the only solution is to reach for the auto brake off switch. The 12v battery, the electronics and start stop system really strangle the 12v lump, you ll need one every year, a safe measure would be to turn off idle stop, as it reduces engine. Wear Overall, I really do miss the car, it was a joy in the city, can park in a 3 wheeler space, large doors, easy to climb in and out, extremely easy to clean and wash, nippy on the lights, very unassuming yet also gets a lot of attention. Almost regret the sale, but life is too short to drive a single car. TIPS IF YOU WANNA BUY ONE YOU CAN NEVER JUMP START 92 is enough, Buy the highest grade you can, Below 30000 to 50000km is the safest Get the one with the led headlights, Check the roof, black roofs flake paint easy, thin metal meaning they rot the same. Check the mileage usual blah, auction sheets, Make sure the battery is in the car before you purchase it, or clear it from port If there is a yellow blinking light continuously, indicates charging system fault so first replace the 12v battery, if it doesn’t go away means isg or battery failure. Run Check the tyres, the oem Dunlop enasaves don’t last long, sidewalls bubble in months Those steel rims are not that strong, a big pothole can warp them, fellas are selling them by the dozen after this, buy alloys, not those I suggest maintenance at A*W, they know the car in and out, and use the 5w30 Castrol synthetic oil, change at 10000km, 0w-20 is too thin for our temperatures , up to you Please Use genuine parts, Never physically leave your car at the agent or any mechanic, the hybrid battery internals can be removed in 5min with 2 tools and will fit in a pocket, Buy a spare wheel Brake pads need replacement every 20000 to 30000 km Rear liners 60000km Be careful when leaving parked, They can’t be harvested like wagon R s but mirror covers and the mirror plate are stolen like any car. Whole mirror assembly can’t be removed as the bolts are inside unlike the wagon R Parts are rare and expensive, especially the 4 lights, worse if led. 175x65x15 tyres will fit the oem 165x60x15 and will have no rub issues, no big speedo error. Learn how to use google translator Join the wagon r and hustler fb pages.
  19. 2 points
    New version ◾️I’m a politician but I’m not a thief ◾️I’m a prostitute but I’m still a virgin ◾️I have a 2002 Corolla 121 but it has done only 95000km😅
  20. 2 points
    Had to log in for another forum. Just wanted to show my gratitude to all you kind people here who advised me at a time I was clueless.Its been almost one and half years.Much gratitude to all of you guys who help me choose the Picanto and gave me a proper perceptions about both cars.Never been a day I regretted making this decision and all that credit to each and everyone of you ! Thank you each and everyone of you specially for your time !
  21. 2 points
    Depends on how the car was used and what sort of roads it was frequently driven on. It's true that the DE series Demio can develop power steering rack issues quite easily compared to other cars. The rack on my father's Demio was repaired twice, and it has been holding up quite well for a few years since it was properly repaired by Mazna. The trick is to repair it as soon as there is the slightest rattle or vibration in the steering. While the wear is minor, the rack can be repaired, which is not an expensive job. But if left unattended, the rack will need replacement, which is a bit of an expensive repair. So... pay close attention to rattles and vibrations in the steering wheel while you are test driving the car. Take it on a rough road, and that will cause the rattle if the rack is worn. You will feel it through the steering if the wear is bad. Depending on how bad it is, work out a price with the seller and have it repaired. Maintain proper tyre pressure, drive on properly paved roads as much as possible and you should be fine. The Demio is a great car in my experience. It has good power comparing to a 1000cc Vitz, and the fully loaded one comes with CVT, automatic AC (climate control), projector HIDs and so on. Good luck!
  22. 2 points
    I tried and failed to get so much as a call back from Future Automobiles (Softlogic) on query!
  23. 2 points
    Don't forget that the new agents for Hyundai are ABANS Anyone who has every bought an appliance from them knows how pitiful their customer service is so one can only imagine what it will be like when that lot try to run a car agency!
  24. 2 points
  25. 2 points
    That's one hell load of b***shit. I couldn't imagine how you survived there. I would be laughing throughout had if I was there. 😃 "Realign the radar for bumper clip installation". Trust me, I installed a set of an aftermarket horns myself by taking the entire bumper off and hadn't have to do any of that. (That's not required in fact, unless you hit the radar unit with something to lose it's alignment)
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