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  1. 8 points
    Its like taking a grandma to midn*ght [email protected]
  2. 7 points
    Toyota Gorilla Ashkio 141 japan modal (not thaiwan) ,Bajj intariyal ,winkel miraar, pul opshan, baket shit, lady doktar owning, ganuin milaj 69,000 km. Hand 10,00,000 /- pinans 53,000 *48, Susuki avery badi van sexchange conisadared.
  3. 2 points
    Bodywork started after disassembling almost all parts. Remain only the outer shell of the car with wiring harness which can not pullout easily. Gauge 14 & 18 zinc coated metal sheets used for most places. Firstly cut the right side of the chassis and welded new bar. Then the left side and floor board plates one by one. All door bottoms, front and back wings repaired. Mean time door hinge pins refilled at a lathe workshop. Finally attached all doors and wings again to check the aligning. Carbide 9kg and a oxygen cylinder consumed for this works.
  4. 2 points
    Should have told them that it's the factory position and Googled images of Evo Xs to prove your point. 😋
  5. 2 points
    Well as mentioned by sadik above two different types of car - with the only common factor being the price. I assume you are referring to the 1st Generation of both cars XP40 (the XP90 actually resembles the Yaris/Belta) for the Vios and XP60 for the IST. It depends on whether you're looking at a sedan or a hatch. While IST's did come with the 1.5 L 1NZ and the Vios did have the 1.3 L 2NZ for the majority of cars in SL the IST had 1.3 and Vios 1.5.. the vios was a tough and reliable workhorse but now after 15 years of abuse it's a little difficult to find a non-hacked specimen out there. Some of the IsT's though have aged a little more gracefully specially the interior bits and pieces are still holding up compared to a majority of the vios's where they have started to show their age. But this does not mean there are gems:I have an uncle running a 2004 vios with KI plates for the last 12 years still in absolute mint condition.
  6. 2 points
    Well - For starters Vios is a sedan and IST is a hatch. Vios is Thailand / Indonesia built (like the Avanza) vs IST was Japanese made. Both cars are plenty used in SL , and both lines if i am not mistaken have been discontinued. Vios now goes at Ativa i think and am not sure which replaced IST. Personal experience , i preferred the IST to the Vios despite the space handicap. But mind you IST was 1.3 ( there were a few 1.5s) whilst Vios is 1.5. I can remember the i.3 IST did better fuel vs the Vios, and creature comforts IST was much better. In fact in the West the IST was sold as one of the iconic "Scion" brand name dubbed "Urban cruiser". The last IST model was quite the looker for me. The last Vios model was based on the Yaris / Belta in fact , despite a few cosmetic changes it was hard to dis-certain one from the other. I think the Vios had more bling like a nickel shell and slighly modified headlights + better kit. But you dont get many examples in SL and i think many were imported for Airforce +Navy usage. The experts must correct me but both cars had the 1NZ engine, although not sure about the gearbox for Vios. Don't know about the latest Vios , but the one before which was very popular in SL wasnt very comfy for me and had noisy suspension. Dont know whether it was a build quality problem / the example which i used was maintained bad. On the contrary the IST faced road abuse much better, being the more silent and smoother ride. IST was more responsive , fun to drive and also looked better vs the Vios. But i think Vios had more pick up. IST had a few grades, where you got some very good kit for the car. (F, FL so on). Personally if you ask me i would prefer the IST , against the Vios , during the whole usage experience of mine.
  7. 2 points
    I would say you should stick to the EK and fix and do some sensible modifications to it. A decent EK2 is pretty rare in SL and many enthusiasts will drool over it till the end of their days. Even if you sell the EK and try to buy another car, your choices are limited (especially in finding something that feels better). Also, you have no idea what the condition of the new car would be....
  8. 2 points
    Yes it's a basic A-B car. Performance is non existent. You have to really step on the gas at times to get to a decent speed. Going on all roads does not necessarily demand performance. Recently got down a 2016 Safety unit for an uncle of mine as a personal import- genuine mileage little less than 30k. It gets him from A-B and that's it. He however made the observation that it was vibrating a lot - an observation tiv had also made.
  9. 2 points
    This reminds me of a mechanic who said about Isuzu ගාමිණී (where he was referring to Isuzu Gemini) regards, JC
  10. 1 point
    The price for permits during mid last year was between 2.3 to 2.45 million. A relative of mine also in the government service had a very tight budget so exchanged the permit for a kei car
  11. 1 point
    Not sure what the regulation in SL is as everything is as most things are in a grey area over here. In most countries the requirement is to have it in the middle with the exception of cases where it is placed on the side by manufacturer design (for example if placing it in the side is required for safety or performance reasons). So in most countries painting the number plate on the side of the bumper of riverting one on the side is not acceptable. It needs to be relocated properly and one needs to have justification (such as installing an extra radiator/cooler which should pass technical inspection) to do so
  12. 1 point
    Lol yea, the Mira and the Hustler both have hill assist, so they don’t roll back, but whereas the vitz and monteros roll back in D making it a bit interesting. I used to drive a defender with that heavy clutch, good times the clutch and the gearbox was so difficult to engage that it sometimes rolled back and rested on nearby trees and walls lol this was when they were a handful and V*P wannabes hadn’t screwed them up. Crude was the word
  13. 1 point
    You really have to learn to search the forum. Performance - there is none, slow noisy lump Faults- nothing major so far, safety system has shown faults sometimes but nothing major, we all gonna need engine mounts soon though, 2nd hand market- only thing this car has the colour you have chosen is one of the cheaper ones, white and orange being the costlier, so don’t let them overcharge you, it’s a nice colour though, has a good demand do not even have a slight hope of the mileage being 20000 to 30000 or lesser, as taught by some of my friends here and after extensive research 95% cars have done over 60000km to 80000km and have been clocked back. It’s nothing to worry though as cars in Japan have been looked after and the wear is way less. The other 5% being hand to hand personal imports and damaged cars repaired and sent. Find a good car and finish it off soon as the budget may do wonders with the prices soon enough
  14. 1 point
    I think it is normal as I can remember in my Viva Elite, there was a clicking sound when the clutch engages and disengages for the AC. However it had no relation to braking or acceleration, the AC was working (engage and disengage with a click sound) on its own regardless of moving or standstill. You should be able to confirm it with the agents at Unimo. just show it to them on your way and they wouldn't charge anything to check it. their customer service is usually good.
  15. 1 point
    150 with 5L 😂😂😂 With the 1KD i have remapped the ECU get power to pull the trailer. unsure which Japanese engineer decided to plant 5L into the 150.
  16. 1 point
    Friends, one of my colleagues is searching a Toyota sedan. He was new to vehicles and he was respecting one mechanic known to him. That mech fellow told our guy that "Toyota Gorilla" is a good car and find one.....:). He is now chasing after me to find that.....:). Is there anything such Toyota Gorilla released around 2006 ~ 2009? Don't know whether these guys referring to Corolla or something.....:)
  17. 1 point
    Hi so, about the Mitsubishi’s, personally the above vehicles are really good, but would defeat your purpose on being a reliable tourer, see the montero sport, it’s not going to happen around 6mil, if there are cars, they’d be badly hacked or mileage turned, they take 200,000 plus cars and make em 100,000 and sell em, so if you buy one you ll have work, most of the true mileage ones are above 7mil , and owners are less likely to part with them cheap. Agent mileage records can also be cheated if you know the right people. and an older montero, same story, lot of pending work. Mostly . It’s not going to be cheap For both these either, the montero sport has very little aftermarket / recon parts so it’s mostly agent montero bits are by the hundreds but not cheap either So you ll be hunting for parts and doing repairs rather than going on this tour, I’d suggest something newer, cheaper and smaller, so you’ll have money to play around with, Incase something goes south. And something that will hold value
  18. 1 point
    I've been on one - has a bit of a lorry vibe to it not uncomfortable per se. Looks tough don't think you can buy one for 6.5 tho. irage, The land cruiser nomenclature [at least locally] has always been confusing to me - there's the 70 series and then the 80'series and then there are export models, jdm models, sahara's and so on and on. I think OP is after the 90 series because he mentions 65 or early english numbers- I have not seen 70 series come with 65 plates or early english numbers. Since these were not military models maybe there are lesser cut and buds on this? No idea though. Tagging @tiv here to get some more info about the monteros.
  19. 1 point
    The Montero/Pajero V60 series is actually pretty comfy. I personally do not like the seats as they are a bit too benchy for my liking but they are nice and plump. The thing...when in good condition...moves like a bat out of hell....compared to its rival models and alternatives in the price range you get a lot more for the price. The Montero Sport...well its bouncy but not too bad, but bouncy...decently put together...feels heavier and a tab more plasticy than the likes of the Fortuner. I like the ride of the Fortuner better. The Fortuner feels more grounded than the Sport. Don't forget the Fortuner too is based on a truck chassis... The old 70 series Land Cruiser..yes for its age its surprisingly comfy. Yes..there are plenty of 70 series land cruisers (II and Prados) that have had the body swapped. Quite a few military 70 series LCs that have gotten restored with new bodies around. Some are legal with proper permits and amendments to books...most are not. Buying an old diesel...well...as with any engine it will require preemptive maintenance done and should be fine. However, the fine part depends on how well the thing has been taken care of. Some people swap the engines out as they start showing age related issues...a few rebuild them. Either way, you need to check what has been done. I am guessing you want a large diesel SUV for the size (to carry the entire family) and for the long runs ? I guess something like a RAV4, X trail, Vitar, etc would be out ? Even if it looks like a SUV with the rear mounted wheel and such ?
  20. 1 point
    Yes....I know myself who is married to a Japanese Yes...the spouse has to renew visa every few years...2,3,5,etc.... That is pretty normal in most countries...I have to renew my spouse status residency every few years in Japan. the difference in other countries is that in other countries after X number of years the spouse is eligible to apply for permanent residency and subsequently nationality. In Sri Lanka that seems to be questionable. Even after decades the foreign spouse may not be granted PR (or nationality) and has to keep on renewing the spouse visa. In the mean time if the Sri Lankan spouse passes away then the foreign spouse faces a whole lot of issues in renewing visa and there are quite a few I know who are living in uncertainty. What happens with the property is a whole different story but seems to be changing (slowly) and becoming more flexible with time..mainly because Sri Lankan expats investing in property in SL. Getting it...well..getting it was not difficult for us. There were some requirements of having to be in SL for 6 months before applying, etc..or some ridiculous thing like that...so wife had to apply for a normal visa for 3 months or something in Japan to come here, then start the application for spouse visa whilst extending her 3 month visa for another 3 months. They just gave both the visa extension an the souse visa or for free (back then) and the people at the immigration office were quite helpful and courteous (in fact they helped us save money we tried to apply for the extension and then apply for the spouse visa later...but they forced us to apply for spouse visa because then we get the extension for free) . During that time an immigration Police officer visited me and my life at separate occasions and asked some questions. The giy was a plain clothes officer who looked like a vagabond and totally freaked out my wife. When we applied my wife and I had been married for 4 years and had a kid so it was pretty straight forward..they just gave it. If a couple is newly married we were told that it is a bit more difficult (longer probation periods, more interviews, etc...), especially if the husband and wife do not have significant assets or something like a kid. The spouse's Nationality and Gender seems to play a bit of factor. At the time we applied they were strict with Chinese women who were getting in to fake marriages....If the spouse is a male, then it is harder as well because the male is considered to be the main bread-winner and because the foreign-spouse cannot be employed questions of income gets raised. The spouse visa in Sri Lanka is quite restrictive...on one hand there is this huge grey area about property ownership and subsequent transfer. The foreign spouse cannot get employed. However, the person can engage in a "home business" or be self employed. Foreign spouse is not entitled to any free national healthcare, voting, etc...However, the only one time I had to take my wife to a national hospital the doctor and the nurse just said it was FoC.
  21. 1 point
    Prices of mechanical pars are a bit high as tiv mentioned. and most of the time you have to source from the agent. Front prop shaft would cost you 100K above - the rear almost double that price - the replacement would come around 80-100,000 kms. Even the rear spare wheel cover is expensive. So it would not be a low cost maintenance vehicle. being a 1.5 L engine on a largish car would mean extra strain on the engine hence will do around 8 KMPL. Other than that it's a simple old school car .
  22. 1 point
    Do i see a crack there in the rail ? that rail will break away. You are better off replacing i guess. Some of my caps are cracked due to UV damage. Even if I try to remove them to repair, they will break like papadam 🙂
  23. 1 point
    Do not accelerate fast especially at traffic lights, get a pair of ear plugs so that you will not get disturbed by honking of people behind who are in desperate need to get to places. Always use the center lane so you don't get distracted from fast moving traffic On highway stick to 60-70 kmph this is the range Allion/ Premio is most economical, you should be able to get over 20 kmpl alternatively get in to a bus or train which is more economical or a sell the car and get a Wagon R which has more leg space, has all the bells and whistles and will be 10-12 in the city 16-18 highway even if you beat the s**t our of the car.
  24. 1 point
    Hello guys, Sorry for bringing up an old thread. Any one tried newly opened Toyota Lanka service centre in Kandy? How's the experience? service charges ?
  25. 1 point
    Storing a car: 1. Clean the garage where the car is stored. If possible, remove all cans, bottles, junk, paper etc out of it. Sweep the floor. This is to get rid of rats, which may have already settled in your garage and to get rid of the dust and dirt. Never park the car outside, unless you have absolutely no choice. 2. Wash and vaccum the car once. This will remove dirt like crow droppings, which may damage the paint if it stays on the body for too long. Vaccuming will remove any dirt in the car, particularly food particles such as 'kadala', which may start smelling and attract insects. It will be a good idea to wax it too. 3. Get a trickle charger and connect to the battery. If its an old car (without an ECU), you don't need to do this. You can just disconnect the battery terminals. If you can't do this, make sure the battery is fully charged and its good enough to hold a charge. 4. Some websites will tell you to fill up on petrol. Don't do this. Petrol in Sri Lanka already contains water and chances are that water will vaporize. Also if the car is left in storage for long, fuel rails may get corroded due to the water in petrol. 5. If possible, remove the tires and place the car on jack-stands. If a tire loses all air in it, it might become permanently damaged. You may have to replace the tire(s). This will also remove the strain on the suspension. However, if you are storing the car for just a month or two, you don't need to do this. 6. Keep the handbrake OFF. If you keep it on, you will definitely get a brake bind. Place bricks behind the tires (if you didn't remove them) to prevent the car from moving. 7. Block the air inlet and exhaust pipe. This will prevent rats going in to the car. 8. For a relatively old car, apply some lithium grease (not petroleum grease) on door hinges and similar mechanisms. This is also optional. You don't need to do most of these things if you can start and move the car for a short distance, at least once a week. When starting a car after storage: 1. Give a good look at the surroundings of the car. Check if birds haven't made nests and cats haven't give birth on the wheel wells, under the engine or inside the rims. 2. Open the bonnet and check for evidence of rats. Look for droppings, chewed belts, signs of shavings of plastic. Check the air filter for any damage. 3. If you covered the air intake and exhaust pipe, make sure these are removed. 4. Check the fluid levels - engine oil, gear oil, brake oil, water. Peek under the car to see if you can spot any oil leaks. 5. Check the battery voltage and tire pressure 6. Start the car and run it in idle for a few minutes before moving. Check for misfires during this time. Most likely the engine will misfire due to water in petrol but hopefully it might go away after few minutes on idle.
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