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  1. 4 points
    Glad you got it sorted. On the way back home after the repair, did you go to the "ECU_break" guy's garage and tell him a thing or two?
  2. 3 points
    Ha...ha of course yes, that guy went speechless and tried to cook a new story like its the first step of troubleshooting blah...blah...blah. I said cut the crap for god's sake and learn first about vehicle repairing before ruining someones vehicle. Person gone to silent mode. Thanks again to all of you for your valuable suggestions , Keep up the good work
  3. 3 points
    yes,very important. Reminds me of another Idiot I met last year while taking a break at a hakuru shop near Kitulgala, who was kind of having an orgasm when claiming that his Priass has just done 100kmpl,coming from Nuwara-eliya,to kithulgala via yatiyanthota road!😅
  4. 3 points
    Doctors with common sense do exist but rare.
  5. 3 points
    Good observation. that should explain why many bus drivers stop in the middle of the road suddenly to pickup passengers despite having some one directly behind. Because the poor drivers cant see someone is behind, not because they care about avoiding accidents less than making money.
  6. 3 points
  7. 3 points
    you don't even feel ABS during normal driving,either you need to break very hard or moderate hard on a wet surface to make the wheels lock. It could be a vacuum /break booster issue if you need more force now. Anyway get a proper scan done,wheel speed sensor failures can also throw such many errors of ABS,Handbrake,VSC systems simultaneously.
  8. 2 points
    Well after 47500kms from zero mileage point and over three years from the manufacturing date I decided it was time for a transmission fluid change. Bought a 4L can of Toyota ATF WS and with a 10mm Allen key and a funnel attached to a 5/16 clear hose of 1m length in hand set about changing ATF. First unscrewed the filler plug so that just in case I failed to do it I could still drive the car. Keeping the filler plug hand tightened to prevent fluid from gushing out, unscrewed the drain plug and drained all fluid. Although fluid was slightly dark in color to me it looked like it could have run for another 10000kms atleast. Dropped the clear tube behind the engine to reach the filler hole keeping the funnel close to inverter coolant tank and began to fill after fixing the drain plug. In fact the filler hole can accomodate a bigger tube but you need some clearance for the air to vent out as you go on filling. It took little more than 3.5L before fluid began to overflow. I was doing it alone so I spilled quite a lot of fluid. Fixed the filler plug back and I was on my way again. I know I should have taken some pics but it is not that easy to handle a camera or a phone after you get ATF on your hands.
  9. 2 points
    Hi Guys Thank you so much for all your valuable suggestions. Finally the issue was sorted out +1 Bravo ...ajm you nailed it The left rear wheel speed sensor was the culprit ,The place I went in Ampara is very good and more over they know what they're doing. I recommend this place to all eastern province drivers, the guy who inspected the car said the ECU error code is common and anyhow it will be thrown if the anomaly occurred in ABS system , but he got another sub code which describe the problem clearly (Something like L/H Rear Speed Wheel Sensor Open / Malfunction), once the replacement done voila....the ABS and Handbrake indicator gone off. Then he clear the engine check light by using the same software. Now my car is fine and yes i got the same punchy feel of the brakes there should be something coupled with this ABS problem ,once it solved the brake force also back P.S : The rear wheel speed sensor (Reconditioned) cost me 9K with the labor charge of 3.6K
  10. 2 points
    Just to add a line to what Davy explained, sometimes our maka basses have a habit of bypassing the check engine light by connecting it in parallel with another indicator which comes on with the ignition key and disappears once the engine is started giving you the false impression that CEL is working. Keep that in mind too.
  11. 2 points
    Rear wheel sensor comes built into the hub. That is why if that's faulty you need to replace the whole hub. But you need to be sure of that. If you can get the car scanned you can read the stored codes. If a wheel sensor is indicated in stored codes then it is a good sign that that particular sensor is on its way out. Other thing is sometimes our maka basses tend to permanently bypass alarm indications on the dashboard. Please keep that in mind too. Then you wouldn't know even if an alarm appears. Another thing you can do is to keep applying brake very lightly lightly from a speed of about 40 kmph until the car comes to a stop over a distance of about 100m. Then you can observe if the noise occurs below a certain speed.
  12. 2 points
    This problem was solved by Toyota Sri Lanka by adjusting Gear shift cable
  13. 2 points
  14. 2 points
    I suppose you are looking at the P90 series ? The P90 Series RS came in both 1.3L and 1.5L variants. The 1.3L variant came with a 2SZ-FE engine putting out like 85hp and had drum brakes in the back. The 1.3L RS was pretty much like every other 1.3L Vitz with the only difference being it had a sporty body kit, lights and some interior trim. So it was just the normal 1.3L Vitz made to LOOK sporty. The actual Sporty RS was the 1.5L variant with the 1NZ-FE engine. This particular RS came with all four disk brakes, slightly stiffer suspension and the sporty cosmetic stuff. The 1.5L variant also could be had with a manual transmission. So..yes..the 1.3L RS is real and from the manufacturer. Its just that it was nothing more than just a smoke screen. In fact I wouldn't be surprised if the normal 1.3L Vitz are quicker than the 1.3L RS because the 1.3L F grade Vitz is a good 20-30 kg lighter than the 1.3L RS. The P130 series on the other hand is a different story. The RS comes only in 1.5L guise with the 1NZ engine. The P10 series, like the P90, came in 1.3L and 1.5L variant RSs. Both had all the options like all four disk brakes, spports suspension, 14" wheels, etc... Personally, I would not bother with the 1.3L RS becuase you pay a lot more for cosmetics and no real gain in performance. However, I believe 1.5L RS variants are quite hard to come by in SL. I beleive the most common would be the Swift Sports followed by the Demio sport grade. In away, the rarity of the 1.5L RS by itself is an attraction I suppose. DISCLAIMER : Car salesmen in SL are notorious for dressing up cars in to something else, so there is a high chance that they would take a normal 1.3L Vitz and then dress it up to look like a 1.3L RS. EDIT : According to the catalog the 1.5L came with HID headlamps and the 1.3L RS came with 15" wheels. Also the AUTO AC seems t have been standard in the 1.5L RS. However the funnest part is the 1.5L RS seems to have been offered with a LSD (since it is an option not all would have come with it)
  15. 2 points
    Well....color matching can be tricky especially when you try to just patch up a small area. Even if you match the color to an exact micron/particle of the sample in the machine; there still will be some angle where a complete and utter car nut with a serious case of OCD will be able to pick a slight deviation in color or a slightly inconsistent orange peel. The thing is the paint on the car fades and wears off with time due to environmental factors (as well as maintenance factors). However, the body has inconsistent fade and wearing off. Some areas fade and wear off more than the others. Obviously this can be minimized with proper care like waxing , etc...So even though the paint matches perfectly to the sample when put on the actual body there might be a slight change in shade (so its best to match the paint from a sample around the area that needs fixing..although that might not always be possible). When the area to be painted is somewhat larger it becomes a bit easier to hide these slight variances because you can taper the new paint in to the old paint such that the variations are hidden. Now its not to say that the new paint can't be color matched and variations masked in small areas. Its just that it does require a lot of skill and not to mention time (which translates to cost...) As for Mr. Paint...I have no direct experience with them but seems like their work is 50/50 and can go either way. One thing I have noticed about almost 90% of the body shops is they try to whisk through the actual workmanship when it comes to small jobs because it doesn't make business sense to them to spend a lot of time on it (time on actually working on it...not the time the car might be just sitting in their premises). Spending too much time and effort on the small jobs doesn't bring them much revenue because no matter what is said and done the owners are not going to pay a lot of money to fix a small area. So if you go there with a large job...what they turn out as the end result might be quite different from their small jobs. There are garages that put the same amount of time, effort and skill in to doing small jobs. But those are expensive. My dad's RAV4 got hit by a crane hook which put a small dent on the rear passenger door. Due to the location, the repair could be isolated to a small space that was roughly about 3/4 of a foot in length and 1/4th of a foot in height. Fixing that cost nearly Rs. 45000.00 and took three days; and this is the same place that quoted 185,000Rs to strip and paint an entire car (with no corrosion). However, the repair is barely visible. Barely visible because a keen eye might notice a slight change in the reflection.
  16. 2 points
    How much of a "car nut"/"petrol head" are you ? Leather seats can always be redone....however: The car is going to require pampering and a lot of TLC like a new born baby (or a labrador...those things are very very needy as well). You can source parts locally through the agents; but it will cost you dearly, so you will have to buy/order it abroad and bring it down yourself and little niggles will have to be taken care of asap without letting them escalate (and these things will have little niggles as they have all these funky gadgets that can have small bouts of temper tantrums). So when it comes to maintenance..if you are expecting a car that you can just pump petrol and use and do an oil change now and then like the Aqua; then give it to a garage when something comes up and have them replace parts from Panchi...then DON'T BUY THIS. If you are a complete and utter car nut and think that - spending hours on ebay looking for parts is the best use of your online time - spending time at garages/auto-spas gently massaging your car in to good health is joyful and therapeutic - a car breaking down is away to emotionally connect with your ride... then buy all means buy it . In fact, the very fact that you are wondering about maintenance shows that you are probably not going to fully appreciate the car. Sorry to be negative...but just putting it out there.
  17. 2 points
    I'm pretty sure I've shared this before, but I can't seem to find my own post, so here goes again: A few years back, when it was high time I was to give my car a full paint job, I saw this offer on a local deal site where Mr [email protected] offered a 50% off for a paint job exceeding 100,000. The T&Cs said that the maximum discount that will be given is 50,000, which means you get a fixed 50,000 discount for all jobs exceeding 100,000. I obviously thought this was a good deal and wanted to make use of the opportunity. I had previously gone to many paint shops and obtained estimates, and all of them ranged between 80,000 - 100,000. The deal site specifically had mentioned "obtain your voucher here and THEN go to Mr [email protected]" to get an estimate. I did the opposite because I wanted to know how much they will charge for a full paint job. So I went there. Two guys inspected my car from top to bottom and they quoted 130,000 for the full paint job. So this meant that I will end up paying only 80,000 if I had a voucher. I asked the guy to give me an estimate. And he was typing out the estimate on the PC when I started inquiring about the deal they have currently going. He said that it's possible and asked me to bring the car again with the voucher. The guy then paused preparing the estimate and went away for a bit and came back. After coming back, he asked me if he can send me the estimate via fax the next day. Although I didn't notice anything fishy then, I said okay and left. I never got the estimate the following day, or even the day following that. So I called him. After multiple reminders, I got the estimate. With a figure of 180,000. As obvious as it is, they have taken into account the 50,000 benefit that I will be making from the deal and increased the estimate so that they wouldn't incur a loss. I was furious and called the guy who prepared the estimate and his response was "sir giyaata passe api oka gana kathaa karaa, sir ge car eke wadeta kohomath mey gaana yanawa". I totally lost my cool at that response and I rang up the manager and blasted him for misleading customers and trying to rip them off. I also made sure that I contacted the deal site and had the deal taken off before some other soul got caught to their scam. I was lucky I didn't fall for it. This might not be related to the quality of their work, but I personally wouldn't submit my car to a workshop that is known for ripping people off.
  18. 1 point
    Generally what they do is cannibalize another used battery and use the good cells to replace the bad cells. This will ensure that all cells will be more or less same conditions.
  19. 1 point
    yes,go for the cheap place only if you plan to sell immediately after replacement and don't care if the cheap cells explode or catch fire 🔥in our heat.By the way,how old is the car and its mileage? anyway don't expect the battery to be reconditioned to original condition,in that case they should give 8-10years warranty like manufacturers but the maximum warranty you get even at the expensive places is what,2 years?
  20. 1 point
    Its not just the procedure but might be the replacement part itself that contributes towards the price difference. So you better double check and triple check and think about going with the cheaper place.
  21. 1 point
    I can shed some light as I've been using a 2017 Vezel RS for the last 5 months. It was bought brand new and has done 6000 km up to now. First of all, the car feels solid, well built and is packed with good features. My one has the Sensing package where you get adaptive cruise control, lane keeping assist etc. Pulling power is a little bit low in the Eco mode. However, you can use the sports mode along with paddle shifters for better performance. It really does make a difference and is fast enough to have a bit of fun (by sacrificing the fuel efficiency figures.). The car also feel planted around 140 - 160 kmph (tested on the expressway). Suspension is on the stiff side and feels sporty. You can feel the bumps and uneven surfaces on the road. By using the exact manufacturer recommended tire pressures (33 psi and 29 psi), this stiffness effect can be reduced to a certain extent. The vehicle is comfortable enough for long distance cruising but not in heavy traffic conditions. You can feel the clutch engaging during the launch which becomes somewhat of a mild headache.This is due to its Dual Clutch Transmission setup. It was quite weird as I used to drive a CVT equipped car (a Belta) earlier. I guess this setup is more stable when compared to the 2014 models as one of my relatives uses a 2015 vezel with 60K on the clock. The only issue he got was with the remote key battery. Fuel efficiency gets dropped to 12.5 - 13 kmpl in heavy traffic while you could achieve 14 - 15 kmpl easily in low traffic conditions. I averaged 19 - 20 kmpl in the southern highway using cruise control at 90 kmph. However if you could really drive it efficiently and patiently, achieving 22 kmpl is possible. All in all, its a good vehicle with loads of goodies. It is not the most efficient car nor the most powerful hybrid. But it gets the job done with good adaptive technology and ground clearance. However make sure that you take care of the transmission and it will take care of you. Good luck!!
  22. 1 point
    Uhhh...so when you add the oils and the filter doesn't it come close to 10K ish ? IMO, price wise, if you go to a decent garage/service center/auto spa it is going to be within the same price range. The good places will also give you ways and means to actually maintain a service history as well. Whether you continue the service a Toyota or not is up to you. Continuing the service at the agent does give it some "+" points when trying to resell it someday. There are some additional perks in checking the car like what tiv mentioned but those I believe are a bit far and few between. Now...do not think that the agent is flawless in their work. Seen plenty of cases where they skimmed through something small and the car had to be taken back in. Also, do not fall in to the myth that "Toyota" oil and filters are the best you can do for your car. Its not. The manufacturer branded "standard" oils and filters meet just the minimum requirements for the car to optimally operate. (I said manufacturer branded because car manufacturers DO NOT refine/manufacture oils and oil filters, etc...they just endorse it and brand it). If you go to an outside garage you have the option of using some of the better oils. At the end of the day what matters is that you properly maintain the car and keep it honest; and if you have ways and means of actually proving it via records then it would help you with disposing the car.
  23. 1 point
    No. You should be able to remove just the gauge cluster. Tilt the steering down, look for screws, remove them and gently pry out the bezels and take the cluster out making sure you don't pull on the connectors. Disconnect them and locate the bulb on the reverse side of the cluster. Swap it with another working indicator bulb to check if it's actually the bulb that's faulty. If it is, replace.
  24. 1 point
    There are few places , but the reviews are from other drivers not appealing , but i got some of the good reviews about one place in Ampara , hoping to give a try. Mm...I don't know whether the feel is ABS or EBD. initialy when i was braking I could feel a holding force which is like grabing the vehicle tires. Now its completely missing ,now with the same force I can't stop the vehicle.. thanks for all your valuable suggestions ...its really helpfull
  25. 1 point
    The car salesmen don't place their bets on any kind of technology, heck..most of these people don't even know anything about automotive technology apart from the cute little bells and whistles the car comes with. They bring Hybrids because that has the lowest taxes for each class thus relatively lower selling price thus easier to sell to our esteemed car buying public. If someone makes a coal powered car tomorrow and the govt says there is no taxes for coal powered cars...the car salesmen will bring those by the ship load and our people will buy twice as much what is being brought in to the country.
  26. 1 point
    I do not know it is Ok with the admin to publish the names. It is a place near Kettharama cricket stadium. PM me if you need the exact name of the place. I really don't have any idea about the consequences of changing gears from D to N frequently in traffic. Hope an expert in this forum will help. For me it is little difficult to shift the smaller gearlever to N often. What I do (switch off Econ mode) is Ok with me to have a better run in traffic and hills with minimum jerk ,normally these duel clutch drives have. I do not think much about fuel economy. But apply light throttle and avoid heavy breaking. Use cruise control in highways and specially keep a good tire pressure and clean air filter. Use 95 octane. My car does average 19 to 22 and it is Ok with me. Please note : I am not an expert on this. LOL
  27. 1 point
    FIt GP5 due to the weight might be having the best pulling out of the three that share the same engine. What you say seems normal when compared to a GP5. I think it happens when on EV mode usually. Any you can check for recalls with below link (but yours is a newer version so maybe there aren't any. http://recallsearch4.honda.co.jp/sqs/r001/R00101.do?fn=link.disp There's an FB group where you can find more owners. From what I read there were few older Grace s which had clutch issues but maybe due to maintenance issues
  28. 1 point
    Hi I found this key fob on the road today (3rd September) close to Boralesgamuwa. If this is yours please drop me a message on here. You can have it if it works on your car.
  29. 1 point
    This event was organized by several members of AutoLanka Forum with the full backing of AutoLanka.com, Racers Edge Club and AutoForce. More than 50 Honda vehicles took part in this meet and later “Honda Club Sri Lanka” was formed.
  30. 1 point
    Guys please note that we switched the AL forum URL from http://forum.autolanka.com to http://autolanka.com/forums today. It was done mainly for SEO and also to provide a better service for you all in the future. All of the old AL forum URL's should automatically redirected to the new forum URL. Therefore there will not be any impact to any external links. We did lot of testing after the change and everything (cross-fingers) seems to be working fine. Please let us know if anything is not working or if you need assistance with anything. Thanks!
  31. 1 point
    May be a good suggestion! But, OP's question is about the VW Importing Agency in SL.
  32. 1 point
    So...you are sick of manual TRANSMISSION so you are doing a POWER STEERING conversion ? How does that work ?
  33. 1 point
    110 and character AE 110 is any way Petrol right?
  34. 1 point
    What's your definition of less maintenance ? All cars would require scheduled oil changes along with scheduled preemptive maintenance work. If you are looking for a car that will keep running even in the face of abuse and you could still get away with doing nothing but basic oil changes...then You could look in to something like good old fashioned cars...stay away from CVT (or even AT) cars... maybe something like a Axela ? or Corolla ?
  35. 1 point
    The annual get-together of Autolanka.com members
  36. 1 point

    From the album Autolanka Get-2-Gether 2008

    The annual get-together of Autolanka.com members

    © AutoLanka.com

  37. 1 point
    A friend of mine who owned a CK1 swapped in a set of CK3 power doors, so the process is similar. I'm not exactly a 100% on the details though. If you already have the car, pry out the trim pieces near the door hinges and check if there is a connector that's folded up and non connected to anything. Also check your internal fuse box to make sure it has the power shutter and central locking fuse slot. If you have a workshop manual, you should be able to easily figure out where the wires go and what colour they are. This is a common conversion even on the CK Lancer, so maybe someone on the forum has done it and will share information.
  38. 1 point
    Having owned an Aqua and driven a GP5, here are my sincere observations for your information.. Aqua Fantastic on fuel - tank avg is around 22, trip avg to Ratnapura 29.8, Galle highway 23.5, Kandy 26.3 comfort - not so much, rear is a bit cramped, front seats lack back support as with most Toyotas and this is a problem on long drives. This will make the chest area compressed while driving, amd has given me many aches and pains. (Im comparing to my Civic which is superbly comfortable) visibility - a problem, you can neither see beyond the dashboard or behind for reversing. There are so many blind spots. My wife who is 5'1" finds it difficult to drive, and prefers to take my Civic instead. build quality - mine has now done a but over 60k, already there are about 3-4 rattles in the interior which needs attention. But mechanically sound. Driving feel - better than I expected when bought. It is quite responsive at bends but with the right tyres. When not in eco mode, its got a bit of power to overtake as speed. Versatility - luggage space is adequate but nothing to write home about, rear seats dont fold down flat Fit seats are more comfortable and has better back support has Sport mode which makes it feel lively fuel consumption is around 16-18 according to my friend, and around 20 on long journeys blind spots - not as bad as the aqua, especially for reversing build quality interior feels better put together with better plastics, mehanically no idea versatility - has ample leg room even at the back and it feels spacious compared to the aqua. Even has magic seats
  39. 1 point
    Country of Origin = country where any consignment (including vehicles, machinery, sugar, dhal etc.) is shipped out of. It's taken from the shipping documents. It has nothing to do with the country of manufacture. In this day and age, there's no point of even talking about country of manufacture. Engine may come from Malaysia, seats from China, Body shell fabricated in Japan, Airbag sensors from Sri Lanka (Takata airbag sensors are made in Sri Lanka), Lamps from Belgium etc. etc. etc.... u get what I mean...
  40. 1 point
    this is the sorry state of most new doctors in the country Mate. The lack of common sense,the Ego and Thinking that their time and needs have higher priority than everyone else's.?
  41. 1 point
    Worrying about electronics on cars with almost no electronics is like a man worrying about breast cancer
  42. 1 point
    The idea behind this document is to create a guide to buying a used car in Sri Lanka. This is just my preliminary draft, and if it's useful I hope the experts here will add/edit it, and create a final detailed guide, which maybe could be posted somewhere in autolanka (if they think its useful) Buying a used vehicle in Sri Lanka (This applies to purchase of a used car regardless of the price/age, and applies to all registered and 'reconditioned' vehicles.) 1. tests you can perform: ================ Engine ==== Before starting: - check the engine oil. Is it at the correct level? Yes: OK/Owner topped up No: Owner does not top up, engine burning oil, etc Color of oil - Light brown/colorless - engine is running reasonably good/recent service - black - engine running bad/never serviced Note: diesels tend to have dark/black engine oil After starting Did it start easily? Yes: OK No: problems in engine/battery/starter motor/tune/etc. does the exhaust show visible smoke (white, black, bluish or grey smoke)? this coud indicate engine problems such as oil burning, worn engine etc. -- note: diesels do occationally smoke a bit, especially under acceleration does it maintain operating temperature? - listen to the engine in idle - do you hear clattering, rattling, or any odd sounds? they could indicate various problems ranging from bent valves to broken mounts? note: diesels are somewhat louder than normal gasoline engines Test drive =========== Lets say you decide to go for a test drive.. .. Step out of the vehicle, and ask the owner to get it out of his driveway/car sale etc. As he does this observe the vehicle, and see if it smokes or struggles during the procedure. Look at the place where the vehicle was parked. If there is visible engine oil/coolant, etc this could indicate problems in the vehicle. (water may be visible from the car's A/C, this is normal). Ask the owner to drive you: 1. Along a rough road (so you can test the suspension) 2. On a good road, ask the owner to drive up to at least 56km/h (or whatever local speed limit) so you can see how the vehicle performs at high speed. Turn OFF the radio and A/C and listen to the car for rattles/hums Tip: a hum from front/rear may indicate need to replace wheel bearings (or what our people refer to as razors) - Stop the car and ask the owner to back up a small hill, and observe the car exhaust for smoke, this is a good test of the clutch/etc. Actual test drive: - First make sure the vehicle has insurance and road licence which are valid. Ask to see them. Then test drive the vehicle very carefully. Make sure you have a good flat road and there is very little traffic. Remember its an unfamiliar vehicle and proceed with caution. First, test the clutch and brakes. The clutch should engage neatly before releasing the pedal fully. If it engages very late, it could mean a blown clutch plate. If there are clutch/brake problems, don't drive any further, and ask the owner to resume driving. And ask yourself whether you are sure you want to buy this car, from someone who couldnt even do basic maintenance. Reviewing the owner How the owner behaves during the test drive can give you a clue of how s/he uses the vehicle in real life. For example: - Does he roll down the window and drive (even though there is an A/C) - this may indicate that the A/C rarely worked. - Does he drive like a rally driver (in which case you can buy the car if you are willing to buy an extra engine, transmission and suspension) How has s/he spent on the car? If he has spent a lot on cosmetics while ignoring real existing mechanical problems, then you should probably consider another car. Is s/he straightforward and honest? Does what the owner says match up to what you see? For example, if the owner said the car had 2 owners in total and the log book copy shows 4 owners, then they could be lying about other things, and you should be cautious. Sometimes owners make mistakes, or simply don't know an answer, but overall if the owner appears to be honest and straightforward, that is a positive sign. [Ask Questions As you review the car, ask questions from the owner. If you see anything odd, ask about it. If the owner is honest and straightforward, its a positive sign. Try to gauge how much of what the owner is telling is the truth. A good way to do this is to pretend you don't know something and ask a question. After the test drive ============ After you return to the owners house/car sale, ask the owner to pop the hood and inspect the engine. - check temperature management. The gauge inside the car should be half or less. Aside from the gage, the engine should be reasonably managing temperature and the fans should be working properly. - Carefully tap the radiator cap with the tip of your finger. If it burns your finger off, the temperature management isnt good. Similarly the engine bay should not be boiling hot (unless it's a Nissan ) Physical inspection of vehicle ===================== 1. Visual inspection: simply look at the car - see if the lines are straight. Look at the paint. Uneven areas could indicate repainting. - look at the wheel arches. Look at the brakes. Look under the car (front/rear) If possible, take the car to a service station and inspect the underneath. If this is not possible, try to look under the car and see what is visible at least - (carry a flashlight with you when you go to see the car). - look for rust, damage, etc. - look at the engine compartment. Are there odd wires and do things look as if they have been messed with? Sometimes legitimate mods (e.g. alarm systems, aftermarket headlamps) require new wiring but if you see a mess inside, it probably means the wiring has been messed up by local mechanics in which case you should think carefully whether you really want this car. - (If the vehicle is cold) carefully open the radiator cap - check if it contains coolant, and if there is any signs of oil (could indicate a head leak) Look at the engine. If it has a slight layer of dust its OK. If it is shiny and has a layer of oil that means it has been washed at a service station. I prefer a car which has a normal slightly dusty engine vs one that has been washed and scrubbed to 'look' new. - look for leaks in radiator pipes. (with the engine off) remove the engine oil cover - if you can see nice clean silver metal with perhaps yellow brown color (engine oil) this is a positive sign. (note: diesels do tend to have dark/black engine interior, this refers to gasoline vehicles only). - Look at the fluid levels of the various fluids (power steering, brake fluid, auto transmission if auto) - if they are not up to level it could indicate leaks or careless owner. - if the vehicle is hot you may be able to open the radiator overflow tank (be careful) and check if he uses coolant. Not using coolant indicates: 1. Owner is an idiot 2. Radiator has leak and owner is topping it up with ordinary water. Either case, don't buy the car. 2. Tap test gently tap the body of the car, with a fingernail (dont rap it loudly) as you walk around. Check the hood, front left and right side and back carefully, also doors (as these are the main accident prone areas). Other general ideas: - Ask the owner what maintenance was performed. If he tells you a list of things replaced/repaired, this is usually a good sign and means the owner took some effort to look after car. - check the mileage? Mileage can be modified - but if it corresponds with the appearance of the vehicle then it could be accurate. - ask for receipts particularly for the timing belt/clutch etc HAS THE VEHICLE BEEN SERVICED/WASHED? If the owner was so cheap that he couldn't service the vehicle before he sold it, then do you really want to buy a car from him/her? *Exception*: Sometimes the owner may be actively using the car in which case it may be a bit dusty but all the same he/she should have washed/serviced/detailed the car within a few days of deciding to sell it. Now Consider the actual condition of the vehicle and make a list of all problems you encountered: Scenario 1: vehicle has major problems which can be fixed ===================================== for example: - Clutch plate gone. - brakes not too good. -minor suspension probs (e.g. weak shocks). - minor engine probs (e.g. poor tune up). Indicates that the seller was a cheap idiot (or typical local) Verdict: Buy with caution, knowing there could be other existing problems, and repair BEFORE YOU DRIVE said vehicle. Scenario 2: Vehicle has minor problems which can be fixed later ========================================= - A/C not running cold enough. - Minor dings, dents, scratches. - Minor cosmetic issues. Verdict: Buy the car, but set aside money to fix those problems later on. Scenario 3: Vehicle has major problems which can't be fixed easily =========================================== - Chassis problems (cracks/bent chassis) - major engine problems (e.g. grey/white/black smoke, burning oil, head gasket leaks) - major suspension/mechanical problems - gearbox problems which would necessitate replacing gear box... so on. Verdict: don't buy the car, unless you own a garage, have a million to spare, or are plain crazy. Other costs Aside from the above, there are a number of things you usually have to do, when purchasing ANY used car. These usually include: - Insurance & road licence. - 4 tires. - full service/oil change/air filter etc. - brake pads/etc - New battery (if existing battery not too good). - Timing belt (if close to 100k km's or multiples of that). Many people will say they replaced the belt, they could be lying. It's easier to spend 10k and replace it than to undergo a broken belt and engine rebuild. If they have replaced the belt, you can get a good garage to visually inspect it. signs of a good vehicle: - Vehicle is clean. (As in, the owner has washed, cleaned, and serviced it.) - is in good mechanical condition (good engine, transmission, suspension, brakes, body) - owner has focused on maintaining the mechanical condition of the vehicle - Vehicle has been maintained properly and scheduled maintenance has been done, e.g. brakes, clutch, timing, etc have been replaced at the proper intervals as necessary. - owner cares about vehicle, services regularly, engine oil is not dirty - owner is upfront and honest about any flaws. - owner uses a good garage for maintenance, and used original/quality components Suggestion 1: To all the experts here, can you please add your comments/suggestions tips on buying a used car. Suggestion 2: Would it be possible for Autolanka readers/Admins to set up a car pricing guide? This could be something updated regularly to show average true market values (like edmunds.com) and be useful to people looking to purchase a car. If any Autolanka readers have suggestions on what they check when buying a used car, please add them here. Update: Top gear have some excellent tips here: http://www.topgear.com/content/buyersguides/02/8.html
  43. 1 point
    Presea Lover just mentioned the car to avoid.
  44. 1 point
    Not that amazing because Warakapola to Gampaha you have a drop in elevation of about 70m for the 33km run. To be more realistic you should consider the consumption over a return journey.
  45. 1 point
    There was this POS called Datsun Go that came out in 2014. NCAP Chairman personally wrote to Carlos Ghosn to withdraw this mobile coffin from India. Apparently it was the first time in history, the NCAP chairman has written to a car company's CEO. It performed worse than Tata Nano (another 0-star car) at NCAP tests. https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/2014/nov/06/nissan-called-on-withdraw-dangerous-car-model-indian-market-datsun-go-nissan Now the same POS is back as Datsun Redi-go. When that also gets a big fat 0 at NCAP, next model will be getset-redi-go. Final installment will be onyourmark-getset-redi-go. By that time, all the go owners would be dead anyway. Kwid will make you live a few days longer.
  46. 1 point
    Cheers for getting my point clearly! "All ladies are good, but you can chose only one!" (at leaset legally ) "All japanese cars are great, but you can buy only one!" (for the majority of sri lankan people) At the end it's all about choices.
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    A turbocharged suzuki kei will be as economical as a 2000CC V6 Cefiro
  49. 1 point
    Hey... This is not facebook to post joke photos. AL should have a good stranded and this kind of jokes or time/resource wasters should be eliminated. See http://forum.xda-developers.com/ one of the worlds largest forums and how they maintain standers. You are just a school leaver and go find some where else to play.
  50. 1 point
    The ones that were imported brand new doesn't have the seat belt indicator as far as I know. The manual generally has everything, for example I'm sure it has info on how to operate the sun roof and cruise control as well.
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