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We ended up purchasing an MT FD1! Ik it’s been ages since I made this post, I got busy with a bunch of things in between and even when I got to searching for vehicles, I was just being too picky. First I was sorta paranoid and considered curtain airbags to be crucial if I get t-boned or smth, which was asking for too much considering most vehicles which fit the other criteria I needed. And I think I missed some really good vehicles which were in some faraway provinces just by being too late, by waiting until my dad gets here from Jaffna to go check em out. Later on I did stop being picky and did learn to go check em out asap if I’m interested. I did go and check out a Primera and 406. As much as defensive driving is the biggest key to being safe, I still felt like having dual airbags gave me some sense of security, so that removed most good BN Primeras off the list. The one I checked ended up having loads of issues with a high price already, and I felt like I’d be better off going for something more expensive to begin with. Got a Greasemonkey report done on that too. Did check a 406 executive too with an uncle of mine, and even though I did see some minor red flags here and there was thinking that it’s normal to find those in a car of that age and usage. Was seriously considering it for purchase, but did want a mechanical check up done. I’ve been in touch with Mr Aruna from Throve recently while trying to resolve an engine oil leak on dad’s 508. C**M**t was trying to rip us off at every turn and was quoting for some insanely expensive repairs (not to mention them having created a bunch of problems in the car themselves earlier, which is why we stopped going there from a couple years back for services), and D*m* where we have been giving it for services since then didn't have the necessary brand specific parts required, so Throve it was. Fortunately it wasn’t a big deal according to Mr Aruna so we’ve been managing with top-ups for now. Anyways he let us know after checking the number plate that the 406 had been involved in a major accident, and even though he repaired it, he wouldn’t advise going for it. I was bummed I couldn’t go for it, but then this FD1 got listed the same night we were informed so about the 406. Didn’t waste any time at all in going to inspect it, so went the next day and got a Greasemonkey inspection done too. Ideally would’ve preferred to get one done at Staf***d too but the owner wasn’t coming to Colombo anytime soon. The Greasemonkey report seemed to be pretty fine as well. The owner was someone who dealt with FDs frequently too and was a petrol head, so I was reassured in some way cuz of that as well. Ofc there were some issues here and there but one can’t expect a used car to be completely problem free ig. So we decided to go ahead with the purchase. Just got it home yesterday, took it out a couple of times afterwards but I’m still waiting to get the legalities and basic maintenance & issues sorted out before using it frequently. I’m still have quite a bit to go in mastering driving a manual, but hoping it’ll work out with experience. All in all I’m pretty happy with it, will keep y’all updated! Thanks a lot to @matroska, @AVANTE & everyone else who replied to this post, really helped a lot! Edit: It’s mechanically stock btw, but has a few cosmetic modifications. I still think it looks great and not over the top, but that’s just me ig. The front body kit/ lip is proving to be a bit of a hassle while exiting a road nearby, but the kit is all good other than that!7 points
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The sad reality is realistically there is no end in sight for the import ban. With an honest and educated society the government would have been able to start allowing limited imports into the country (e.g. X number of vehicles between A- B USD, etc...). However, lets be honest...honest and educated are not adjectives we can use to describe our masses. Our guys (from politicians all the way down to the brokers) are going to cheat and lie in every possible way possible so that also will not work.3 points
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Yep, those are aftermarket tail lamps. According to the seller, they’re the only units of this type in SL, but I didn’t bother verifying or feel the need to. Regardless, I really like how they look at night! The pics I had of the interior weren’t that great to look at. I did try snapping a few pics earlier tonight, so will send those. Will try to post any pics of the interior at day later on. And thanks again!3 points
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Looks like I seem to have taken over the title to the only active member with Peugeots. Honourable mention @AVANTE. Hopefully did not miss anyone else. Peugeot offers good value for money and are loaded with toys. but regular maintenance is required and sometimes can be pricey. Very nice to drive safe cars. Not for faint hearted as these do like to throw issues. Mostly electronic issues, which turn out to be easy cheap fixes. but time and expertise is required. NOT A REPLACEMENT FOR A 121/ALLION OWNER LOOKING TO GET "PRESTIGE" ON A BUDGET. SORRY Since I'm bored, I decided to make a comprehensive study on the French fry AKA Peugeot. Covering Peugeots from the 90s to current models. Mainly talked about are 206,406,407,508,3008,5008 as these are common cars for us. Let's start with the Negatives first. Posting in table format for easy reference. PRICES ARE IN LKR AND BASED ON SRI LANKAN RATES AT THE MOMENT. WILL BE CHEAPER OVERSEAS. I will make edits or changes with time if required. I do not take responsibility on anything and claim to be an expert. Compiled from experience and help from Peugeot Technicians. Some of these negatives apply to all Euros and even some modern Japs. Negatives Fixes and avoidance guide Average cost 1 Electronics are questionable Biggest let down. Come to think of it, All euro cars have rubbish electronics. Will leave you stranded more than once if you don't rectify asap. had to learn the hard way. At least the wires don't melt like my Alfa 156. tops at around 100k 2 Complex suspension Good handling and comfy. But like all euros they are expensive and complex. Ride smooth. Slow down for pot holes/bumps. 407 had some fancy suspension and was known to wear out faster. 150k to 500k 3 Interior dislikes hot climate Get good quality tinted(50K) done. Use a windscreen shade when parked. Avoid parking under direct sunlight for extended periods. Replacement parts are actually very cheap. Unlike bmw spares, that cost the sky and melt if you even stare too hard. 50k 4 parts are expensive depending on the location and accessibility In Sri Lanka parts are often more costly and bit low in stock. Malaysia & Dubai stock for cheap. Ali Express.com has OEM parts for cheap with shipping to Sri Lanka. 5 Needs specialised technicians Like all euro cars. Everyday bush mechanics do more harm than good. Company is subpar in Sri Lanka. Prices can be a hit or miss from them. 6 Engines from BMW MINI (Prince THP) are troublesome Fun and very rev happy. sounds good. can do anything from 4kmpl to 15kmpl depending on the driver. Best avoided. If buying. Make sure engine has been overhauled with the corrected parts. HP fuel pump/injectors are known to fail also. Injectors-35k. HP pump-250k. Overhaul cost-400k plus 7 AL4 gearboxes are troublesome. Solenoids are known to fail. Not too hard a fix. Expertise needed. Regular preventive maintenance is key to no issues. 50k 8 Paint can be hit or miss Paint can fade/bubble over time. Rust is also sometimes found. Garage usage is advisable. Company rates are ok. But needs to be micromanaged 16k to 400k 9 Periodic timely maintenance is a must (not a negative, but Lankans think it is) Maintenance must be done on time. Cannot leave behind for later. Esp 5w30 Oil is expensive in Sri Lanka for unfathomable reason. Older cars can use regular synthetic oil and full service cost is on par with japs. Filters are cheap and plentiful. Oil can be bought cheaper overseas. 10k-175k for full service in Sri Lanka Includes gear/brake/coolant fluid change 10 3rd party spare are not common Cheap non oem parts are hard to find and easily perishable. Advice not to use non oem parts. 11 1.2 pure tech engines issues Powerful and fun. Sound good. Will be worn out faster because turbo & small engine works harder than higher capacity engine. This is relevant to all small turbo engines from any manufacturer. Will need overhaul by 200k. ALSO SOME ENGINES HAD TO BE OVERHAULED AROUND 30K DUE TO DESIGN FAULT. DONE FREE AT AGENT UNDER WARRANTY. MAKE SURE THIS WAS DONE BEFORE PURCHASE. 500K UPWARDS 12 3008/5008 Power steering rack Was changed free at agent under warranty. Was partly due to bad driving/roads. CHECK BEFORE PURCHASE 250k upwards RUNNING REPAIRS AND SUCH. Very similar in price to other brands. THIS TABLE IS ACTUALLY FOR 1ST TIME PEUGEOT BUYERS. PRICES ARE NOT SCARY AS THEY SAY. WILL ALSO HELP 206,406,407 OWNERS NO DOUBT. Intervals have been posted after getting recommendations from several experts who work on PEUGEOT. Intervals may vary and should use caution always. May have missed some. This table is for Peugeots from the 90s onward. Part/s Price (LKR) Interval (KMs or time) Advisory TIRES 20k to 75k Depends on tire. Usually 45k kms. Tires cost the same as other Japs & Euros. Use softer tire because suspension can be damaged with hard tires. Dunlops are a good balance between price and quality. Brake pads 7k to 20k Last long really. Usually every 40k kms. Available from 3rd party junk to brembos. My 508 cost 16k a pair in todays prices.oem. not bad at all. 406 and them still cost under 10k. Depends on driving habits. Brake discs 10k to 60k Same as above Unless a stone or something scratches the discs, they last long and don’t screech. Of-couse brakes depend on the driving habits. Any Filter 2k to 5k Every 10k for oil filter. Cabin/Fuel filter every 20k or as advised. Easily found. AUTOGear oil 25k-100k Older pugs I’d say at least every 25k. Newer pugs say lifetime but I’d say every 40k -80k to be sure. Overseas it’s 20K MILES for older pugs and 50-80K MILES for newer. But in Lanka better change bit earlier because of harsh conditions. Lifetime oil is bs. Newer pugs need 4 Litres of gear oil that cost about 80k. Engine oil (older pugs) 10k- 20k For older non turbo cars. every 10k if synthetic or 5k for mineral oil. Cost the same as an average car. No any special recomendations. Engine oil (newer pugs) 50k average 508,3008,5008 and other newer models. Every 10k. Please do this ritually or you will have problems. Esp 5w 30 is recommended. But please check with agent/ booklet to make sure. Mobil 1 or Total is recommended. AC GAS 10k to 75k Re-gas as neccesary. or check every 2 years. R-134A (or HFC-134a) for most cars before 2016. Cost peanuts to gas. The post 2016 onwards it was mainly R-1234YF (or HFO-1234yf) gas. Now that’s expensive. About 50k usually. Check under hood to confirm type. This Is also the same as any brand. Clutch @AVANTE I need help on this Brake fluid 5k Every 2-3 years is what’s followed in Lanka. So far no horror stories. If you use brakes a lot due to racing or traffic. Better go case by case basis. COOLANT 25k max Every 5 years. Almost never changed in Lanka. Some might change even sooner. Water is not ok. Use a reputed brand. STR sold in supermarkets is water with green dye. Ask me how I know. SPARK PLUGS 2k to 6k each Pug recommends 45K kms. Can attest to that. Cleaning and checking won’t hurt I’d say. Ignition Coils 10k upwards each Check every 20k. Lankans change when busted only. Usually can run for 5 years. Buy and keep from overseas as is very cheap there. Battery 40k to 125k Battery prices are crazy now. Used to be half this. I’d say with prices now, run it dry. Don’t let that mfr die. Expensive af. My 508 cost me 68k for a new brand. Amazon is about 90k. Shock absorbers. 15k to 45k Inspection is the best identifier Wide variety. Can even be rebuilt which I don’t prefer. But not too bad really. Axle oil seals 25k leaks gear oil. common issue after about 10 years. easy fix needs some disassembly to fix. so better to use qualified technician. to be updated. ( WARMLY WELCOME TO ALL COMMENTS, SUGGESTIONS, CRITICISM ETC. 😊 )2 points
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Again...I would not say its possible nor would I say you can't. Sorry, really not an answer to your question. If your engine is in good health and you do normal low-intensity runs with the engine coming to proper operating temperature, then yes you would increase the possibility of getting closer to 10K. But the reality is that the quality of the fuel, quality of air being induced into the engine, etc... would also affect this. So, although the oil might suggest 10K and you do low intesity, low stress runs, in reality, this would actually reduce. So...it is all very contextual. The reality is that everyone, from the manufacturers to garages to service stations, gives you a standard recommendation because that would be the safest way to go about it. Otherwise, they would have to come up with 1000 different oil change recommendations, one for each of their customers. So, it is best to figure out what is best for your car by actually studying/observing it.2 points
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Yes correct @harshansenadhir this was the best picture I could find of the rear angle I wanted. Interestingly the rear has similarities with the main rivals of BMW & Mercedes models. The rear lights specially would have confused people to thing of the BMW 5 series gen 1. Its a very clean classic yet beautiful design in my eyes.2 points
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It was and always is inevitable for those types to take over these platforms. It's partly because being a true car enthusiast in SL is next to impossible now. It costs way too much to do any kind of decent builds or to actually own interesting cars (let alone run them). So with the ever-dwindling enthusiast group it is only natural that the common car users come hoping to find answers on fuel consumption of Vitzies and resale values of Premios and who else would respond to them other than the broker crowd ?2 points
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instead our society will exploit every possible loophole. An election gimmick aside, i don't see SL go back to importing vehicles - as for the prices of current vehicles dropping - even if they do start importing I don't think any new vehicle will be priced in a range for existing vehicle prices to drop - considering the potentially hefty taxes and exchange rates. These rumors' go in cycles - car sales, and buying and selling people first propagate a rumor that imports will open up and people sell in a panic at low prices. Then the car sale folk hoard a lot of vehicles. Then they start jacking up the price and spread a few rumors that imports will not happen for many years. Price goes up. Now they have exhausted their stock and the common folk (non-car-sale people) have also jacked up the price. Then again the imports are opening up in xxx months story goes on to drop the price. I have seen this trend for the past year or so. The used car market is now the car sales/brokers playground now - I have been a heavy critic of car-sales , brokers and buy-and-sell folk. This led to me being blocked and banned from a popular automobile group on social media(name refers to fast revs and racing)2 points
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There are quite a few in Sri Lanka. @harshansenadhir pls go ahead, another of those old timers.2 points
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are you related to @fiat fan? WOW! That's indeed a find. The FD series Civic's are pretty special - looks way ahead of their time and quite comfy. and a Manual to boot! While many people ask for advice very few do actually come back to the forum and tell us about what they bought! So hat's off for the follow up. Looking forward to hearing more about this car.2 points
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To be pedantic, it was not an official recall. PSA replaced it with an updated unit under warranty IF you were to face the issue within the warranty period. The issue was discovered by owners after crossing about 50k - 60k kilometers. That's the sad part as there were many owners who didn't do that mileage within the warranty period. It was a BMW-PSA joint venture project from 2006. The engine did have a recall for a timing chain and tensioner issue (both parts were designed by BMW, they had issues with Timing chains in their diesels and other petrol engines as well from that era, most famous was the N47). The engine was a good design; lightweight, compact, had good low down torque, made good power, smooth and economical for the power outputs it offered in various tunes. On the RCZ-R, It was tuned for 270hp and it had the highest HP per Litre ratio of any production car, until the Yaris GR came along about 5 years later. The main flaw being that the piston rings were fragile in the earlier years and gave way very quickly. Similar issue to what the Honda Fit GP1s faced. They resolved the issue with better quality rings on the later THP engines. How bad is the oil burn in yours? Does it drink more than 1L per 2500km or so? Lot of white smoke? Rough running and noise?2 points
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Oh boy, were they under the influence by any chance. Have so many such instances in my life having worked in the automobile field. Once a secretary of a big campus called and asked if we had a Puche, I was working with a guy who starts to laugh at the drop of a needle and you can imagine the whole office at that time. Another instance I was visiting a guy outstation and we were talking cars he was talking about some car and I was nodding as if I knew and my colleague was also playing along. When we came to the car to leave he asked ado machang did you know what the fellow was talking about and I was like no I dont, he was like why bung he was talking about a Porsche.... I dont blame the guy but he always gave us something to laugh about when we visited him or he visited us. So many stories of "vulchas kukulas", Karisler, Farking etc.. Those were good times.2 points
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...and in the blink of an eye 3 years have gone by. It only occurred to me/us when the dealer called up to remind us of the upcoming shaken inspection and tax payment and to inquire what I wanted to do with the car loan. So off to inspection it went and decided to totally pay off the car. So now she is totally mine At the 3 year mark I have put 10,xxxkms on it and each one of those kms have been more smile worthier than the other. Interestingly as the engine broke in the car became more lively as the engine was way more rev happy. In 2022 GR Garage started a personalization program called GR Personal Selection. The program offered owners the chance to take the car for a track day, drive it and tune the car according to their own driving style. This included a software upgrade which bumped up torque to 390Nm (an increase of 20Nm from the stock 370), adjustments to steering weight, throttle response and AWD torque split. Unfortunately, the track days didn't work out with my schedule so got it tuned to some presets that were offered. So now the car has 390Nm of torque, heavier steering and high throttle response. I didn't do anything with the torque split of the AWD system as I felt the changes introduced a bit of understeer which I didn't like. The upgrades have made the car a lot easier to drive. So much so my wife, who always made the car leap from stand still or jerk when accelerating and shifting gears, found it a lot easier to drive than before. I bought the GR Yaris completely out of impulse. The original plan was to buy a standard Yaris with a MT until the GR Corolla was released. Thus, once the GR Corolla was released in Japan I had to go try it out and put my name down for one. The GR Corolla was a nice car. It is a lot easier to drive. The two rear doors make the car a lot more practical. The car does have a larger cargo area, however the usable space is not that much larger than the GR Yaris. The best thing about the GR Corolla is the engine improvements. The power delivery is much smoother and the engine is more responsive (the updated engine is going to be offered in the facelifted GR Yaris). Performance wise, although the GRC has more power, you cannot not actually feel it due to the added weight. Track runs have shown both cars to be equal in things like 0-100 times, etc...the main difference seems to be in terms of handling. The consensus seems to be that the GRY is better for rallying and B-roads (due to the shorter wheelbase) and the GRC is better for track use. Which brings me to what I did not like in the GRC. The weight...and the longer wheelbase. The GRC feels less nimble and playful than the GRY. Albeit...straight line, flat-out..the GRC is a lot more stable. Which I support is in line with the above mentioned consensus. So, after a lot of driving around in the GRC and a track day with the GRC and a bunch of other GR cars, I decided to stick with the GR Yaris (I was hoping to keep the GRY and buy the GRC as a second family car for its practicality. Wife insisted I had to trade in the GRY). Then there was the whole purchase method for the GRC. The cars were offered only through lottery with each round of lottery having only 550 cars (Toyota closed its 2nd lottery a few months ago and the next one is supposed to come up in a few months). To give you an idea of how crazy the lottery is....I went to the dealership/GR Garage to apply for the lottery the morning after the lottery started (1.00pm prev day). The system already showed 5000+ lottery applications. The low chances of actually winning the lottery reaffirmed my decision to hold on to the GRY. The GR Garage is a total car person's den. It has two racing sims, a library with car books, mini cars...and always has a selection of fun cars. In this instance they had their (Toyota Corolla dealership's) GRMN Yaris and GR Corolla Morizo edition apart from the white one in the previous pic). Now..the second moment of temptation.. I was so mad with Toyota that I went and ordered a Civic Type R. Now that was a very refined car. FWD and wonderfully balanced. Interior was well appointed. The adaptive suspension was quite good. The car came in at 4.9mil yen fully loaded (compared to the GRC's price of 5.8mil) and the car made you feel special for all that money you spent on it. At the time of placing the order the delivery period was 4 years. To my good fortune, Honda called last December and said I could have mine in April 2024 if I still wanted it. So... am I getting a Civic Type R in April ? I suppose we will have to wait and see. For now..life goes on with the GRY .... Yes...we still have the old Corolla. She turns 25 this year and has 52,000km. Still runs strong and along with her shaken inspection next week I will be replacing some oil seals (for good measure as some are 25 years old and some 10). Other than that I replaced two engine mounts and replaced the clutch and pressure plates about 2 years ago Its amazing how small the Corolla wagon is compared to the GRY. The day Toyota was crazy enough to ask a bunch of us to drive their cars The blue Supra was a manual and LOVED it ! If I could have afforded it that would be a car I would give up the GRY for in less than a heart beat. The pure grunt and glorious sound of a V8 was mesmerizing. Now....about that family car I wanted until a new toy comes around. Because the chances of getting a GRC was so low...the dealership managed to sell us a facelifted Corolla Touring ! Our/my first Hybrid car. The facelift has some exterior/interior design improvements, but the main change is the hybrid system. It now uses a 5th gen HSD mated to a 1.8L engine. Has a total combined output of about 137? hp and tons of torque thanks to an updated control unit and lighter batteries (so it has more power than the pre-facelift model and weighs less). It is interesting how the system handles the charge/discharge. The car does not let the battery charge up to a 100%. Only time it does is when driving long distances on the highway or going up and and down hills. At such times it just starts cruising on EV mode. Its biggest let down is the eCVT and has a little bit space than the old Corolla wagon...but everything else is pretty sweet. All in-all the (temporary ?) purchase of the Corolla Touring worked out quite well considering some unexpected life changes.2 points
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Uhh..it could be something like the ABS actuator or something getting activated. In which case it is quite normal (in some newer cars you would even here a hissing sound coming from the car after you have turned it off and walked away from it because of systems like the EVAP system getting depressurized). Sounds/noises are really hard to comment on without actually listening to the sound and trying to trace it to what is creating it. So...it could be something normal as above (which is highly likely) or something totally different.1 point
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quite reasonable considering cost of living these days. never looked at dealer except when getting some minor accident repairs for 407 and buying small bits and pieces (engine cover retainer clips and door window guide for 406 which was nowhere to be found). Test drove 508 back then but didn't move into, rather walked away from the brand.1 point
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Thanks. Actually I was looking for an Elite first when they were around 3 million . Then all of a sudden prices went over 3.5. Anyway I'm happy with the purchase. Drove the car and it was quite good and the pick up is better than I expected from a 1L engine. Enough leg room and head room, also there's better boot space compared to WagonR.1 point
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A lot people will tell you that the ban will be lifted (1. car resellers wanting to buy cars cheap for higher resale. 2. Maybe this could happen with the elections in the horizon) Other than that the main issue Sri Lanka has is the fact that we do not have sufficient foreign reserves. Why do you think they want to extend the moratorium on debt payments till 2027? The foreign reserves of the country still stands at US$ 5.5b this is without paying any debts, imagine if the country opens up for vehicles and if history repeats itself you will have thousands of cars coming in and then you look at the outflows that 5.5b will be gone in an instant. (a small car will be approx. US$ 10-15,000 into 1000, a luxury car at US$ 40,000 into 100 these are conservative figures) Just imagine with the migrant workers permits the majority of vehicles imported are luxury cars (almost 100-150) all above Rs. 40mil and only about 20-30% lower priced mass cars below Rs. 20mil.1 point
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Congrats on your purchase!!! That seems to fit your (or better-halfs) requirement well - there's ample space and the tech on these cars are simple. Actually I learnt a lot when we had a Kelisa - it is an ideal beginners car. RE the viva elite - prices are touching 4 Mill now - there are a lot of manuals converted to auto - using recon gear boxes from Daihatsu Mira's these are poorly done jobs resulting in various issues and most of the swaps are done using the gearbox designed for an 800 cc version of the Mira. Of course the VIN can be used to decode if it was an original Auto or not. Due to this people who own original Auto's kept jacking up the prices until a car that launched at 1.5 M just a decade ago is now going for 4M. This is just crazy and a result of the Sri Lankan mentality.1 point
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Yes...if you take a HiAce...the floor to ceiling height is about 11cms less in the just low. It is mainly because the floor is lifted to keep it flat and not have wheel humps. Also, from the ground (like outside) the floor level is about 11cm higher in the just low than the normal van.1 point
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It was from N.I in panchi. Labor was 15k for all (guy I know who works at the dealer) I don’t even look at crapmart after they ruined my paint and doors.1 point
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After searching for almost 2 months bought a Perodua Kenari 2007 specimen. Although it looks a bit odd,my wife prefers it over the other choices we had. She says it has a bit wagonRish look and she appreciates the extra head room which Kelisa doesn't have. Here are some pics guys. Thanks for the help1 point
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My personal preference is for a branded used head unit (not Japanese ones since they don't have full-band radio). This comparison is between a 25k Chinese head unit and a 25-30k branded used head unit. Typically, I require good sound quality (with stock speakers), reliable radio reception, a reverse camera, Bluetooth connectivity, and an option to play videos to keep my kids entertained while parked (though they now prefer using their phones). Other options are also newer used on my head units. Chinese head units come with more bells and whistles, but most of the time, they malfunction after 1-2 years. I dislike the radio tuner because it can't hold the radio channel after driving a little outside Colombo, and the touchscreen also goes out of sync after 1-2 years. I've heard that new Lenovo and expensive Chinese head units are performing better, but I don't have any experience to comment on those.1 point
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Chinese Android unit with a good sound processor + DSP. I got one for my Lancer which has the factory speaker set, sounds way crispier than a Pioneer HU in a same spec Lancer. Equalizer options are pretty neat too. Plus you can run Spotify/Youtube Music directly through the HU. Mine cost 75k back in 2022 when the $ was like 205-210LKR from Aliexpress Go for one with a ROHM32107 or better sound processor and I'm sure you won't be disappointed1 point
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Glad that you enjoyed the read 😁 The thing with the big name garages are that they not bad all the time, but when chance's arrive they take it! Most 508 owners and even 3008/5008 get hold of a technician who works at carmart and gets work done at their residence or the techs residence. It’s actually much cheaper and the work quality is better. Keep carmart at a distance for any software updates or parts on discount. You might be able to get a recon engine from the salvage cars imported from UK. Make sure that its the good engine type. I’ll update my blog soon with all the horrors of them 508s 😅 JK 2.5L per 2500 sounds little serious. I would go asking around. Carmart actually never did recalls or service campaigns in a proper manner, so Im not surprised. Even the BPGA unit was faulty and had a service campaign,but carmart did nothing. wow major OT. so how many chicks you picked with FD1? Pulls near the ANC and Bishops College around 1.30? 😅1 point
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First of all thats a nice car you got there. On this issue you could do what my ex colleague told my then CEO when he was complaining about the car scraping when exiting Keells in Kohuwela.... Boss why dont you change to Cargills! Same way you can stay away from going on that road by using an alternative road. 😂1 point
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Thank you! And yep, intend to do a thorough detailing pretty soon. Fortunately not xD That's just something we applied after buying it on a bunch of different places like the steering wheel and hood, for religious purposes. Pretty much powder-like so it'll get removed on its own after a while.1 point
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Looks mean! Only 10 manual FD1’s made it to Lanka, so pretty special. Pulls tad bit faster than the auto with paddle shifters. I remember doing 180 on the E03 at midnight about a decade ago. Not recommended now. Used to give some bigger more powerful cars a good scare. Is the exhaust worked on or stock? Try to get the seats redone in leather, ours had half leather like them vezis. Looked very premium. Ours was done to factory quality at deens. Ironically… I also own a 508 now and was ripped-off at Carmart. Avoid that place. Find an independent technician who visits your place or you can drive to his place. These big name pug garages have a tendancy for tooth extraction and scamming.Right @AVANTE ? Is the 508 petrol? If it is… Oil burning- just THP things. Was the engine changed/overhauled under warranty at carmart? The THP engine had a recall from Peugeot that carmart did for free. cheers!1 point
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Corona has always been heavier than the Carina. Mainly because of the equipment specs that were packed in. Since the Corona was aimed to be the more reserved, grown up luxury type version of the two cars, it made sense. This also meant that the car got a reputation for not being fuel efficient as the Carina. On top of that since the T190 series the Corona did not get the 1500cc engine which the Carina got (engine capacity started from the 1600cc 4A-FE engine). So where petrol variants were concerned the Carina was preferred (because anything more than 1500cc meant you were playing with the devil). Diesels were too expensive to be brought down so most of the diesels were government employee permit imports. Which worked for them because the Corona felt more premium than the Carina. There was another reason. That being Sri Lankans (the race that is the majority) are very racist. The Corona was popular amongst businessmen of a certain race/religious faith. So the car was told to have the ****** look. Now...back to the OP's cars...I didn't want to bring up any diesels because....old diesels rarely ride smooth. They vibrate, sound like a tractor and look like they went through a cloud of soot and is being held together with rope. Its mainly because the various bushes, clips, etc get worn out and spoilt because of the vibration and weight. Sadly our guys do not attend to these. Again because being diesel a lot of people bought them in the second/third hand car market to just run it for cheap. Also, if you find a good diesel then you are blessed. But if you end up with one that is worn out you are in for a lot of pain.1 point
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Nissan Primera P11 (SR20 preferably as opposed to the 1.8L SR18/QG18 and preferably manual) Other options would be Cefiro - Comfy, barge-like but slightly sofa-like and you expect a bit more from a 2L engine. At your budget you're looking at A32. A33 in the price range will come with a compromise but a bit of hard bargaining might fetch you one for around 2.5 A bit rare(ish) option - Toyota Camry/Vista SV40 - not the most sought after car so you can source one well below your budget. Yes they will be - he is missing the Carina by about 1Mill. Corona's are a little closer to his budget - the Carina is more sought after than the Corona in the local market- not sure of the historical context maybe @iRage can shed some light. Options : 1996/97ish U14 Bluebird's since OP is ok with manual. Diesel's are cheaper , manuals are cheaper, 301 and 65- numbers are cheaper. The only Corona from the 210 series will be a diesel CT210. YOM 1996/7 65- (people will pay more for the same YOM if it has G plates) A very good specimen in my neighborhood got sold for 2.5M (1996/65-plates) last week. CT190 Corona would be around 2M mark. Toyota Carina T190 series. Underappreciated sibling of the T200 series (AT211/212) you will find both auto and manual variants - YOM would be 1994-1995-ish and will have 19/300/301 plates. 406 is a very decent choice - you get more car for what you pay. I think this was discussed recently in another thread as well . In Summary If you could rotate the second '9' by 180 degrees - more options open up. Manuals, diesels and cars with Numeric number plates (300/301 etc as oppsoed to G,H etc) are more affordable. Do not be afraid to bargain - yes crazy prices are quoted in adverts but most of the time many vehicles get sold for 100/200 K less.1 point
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So..you are sort of asking to eat the cake and have it at the same time here... Based on your general requirements you would be looking at something like a post 1999 Carina/Corona, Bluebird. However, these will be above your budget. You might be able to score something like a Cefiro, Laurel, Gloria, Cedric towards the upper end of your budget but seeing what is around they will be more or less on the low-end of the spectrum when it comes to condition. Ironically cars like the Mitsubishi Verada go for around your budget. But then one reason these fall within your budget is because you are not going to get that 10kmpl avg fuel figure. For your budget you will have to settle for something a little bit older if you want to go with a Japanese brand. As for Euros...something like a 406 or even an Alfa Romeo 156 would be possible. The latter would actually be a fun little car to drive as well.1 point
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Yes ! Toyota Alphard it is ! Over to you Gummy bear So yeah... when we were in SL last June. We were out and about and all of a sudden the kids start to laugh uncontrollably. When asked why my daughter managed to compose herself for a few seconds to point at two guys and say that they are talking about fart matches. Then my son says that the two guys are constantly talking about I'll fart over and over again along with some Sinhala words. Curious, I eaves dropped to find out that the two guys were talking about the luxury features of an Alphard. One guy was actually calling it I'll fart and the other was trying to correct him1 point
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@darshana3g Wait ! I just realized my comment made no sense ! A RAV4 would definitely take more than what a Vitz does I don't know why I was thinking of a RAV4. Anyway..RAV4 total capacity is about 8.75L and a drain and fill took a bit less than 6L. No idea what a Vitz would take...checked the instruction manual and the total capacity is 6.23L. SO I would reckon it would average around 3 ? So the 2.5L could probably be ok. The volume stated in the manual is typically close to a disassemble and refill. You should know that in Toyota's actual service manual the (older) CVT unit is a non-serviceable unit which at 100,000km requires an inspect and change if required and the manual shows to remove the transmission :D. However, Toyota's own vehicle care guide given with new cars say the CVT fluid needs to be changed every 20,000km. Go figure.1 point
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Recently Purchased a Teyes Spro Plus for My Vitara. got it down from Aliexpress. Support is also good since it's Russian and Chinese product and updates are available. not to forget out of the box all the Steering controls worked and all the Wirings also included and installation was a breeze (Installed by myself).1 point
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A good friend of mine in the automobile industry (worked for several dealerships) left in 2022. He misses home badly but did mention that there was very limited opportunity specially in the industry locally. Clearly it's just survival mode if you stay in LK. Every industry is affected - we talk about the opportunities in tech but government uni's are struggling with lecturers migrating -in fact one of the leading government universities have scrapped a masters program due to the lack of lecturers to deliver it ) so it is indeed bleak. Having said that there are other factors such as family/parents to consider. Specially for folk who are either only children or all the siblings have already left. See what two misplaced vowels can do ?1 point
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+1 on the Kelissa and the Alto 650. Kenari? Have you seen the thing? Cruze - A good vehicle with ground clearance and with the biggest engine, wont be helped by fuel economy. Also you may consider the Suzuki version of it Ignis/Swift.1 point
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One more aspect affecting recent migrants is the increased cost of living globally. People who moved long ago are now stable abroad, have houses, vehicles etc.Many people I know who recentlty migrated are going through a relatively tough phase with inflation and high prices of real estate etc Compared to those who moved a few years back. So life isn't as "better" as expected. Let's face it the entire world is going through a crappy phase. It's just that some countries have better systems in place to minimize impact.1 point
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I’ll explain what are the differences you’ll notice. -GP5 is considerably faster than the GP1 and fun to drive. In terms of acceleration it is on a totally different planet when compared with Vitz and Aquas -Interior is nicely done in the GP5and has an upmarket look than the GP1, but same as the GP1 all materials are hard plastic -GP5’s Handling is a bit better than the GP1 -Some models of the GP1 came with the serious engine oil burning issue which is a real headache. But only a range of cars are affected. You can search in the forum form for their chassis number range to avoid. This was rectified in the GP5 and later GP1s -Comfort wise almost the same -GP5 has the faster wearing Dual Clutch gearbox, which tends to pack up around 80,000kms and above (due to the SL climate) -Both cars don’t have serious battery issues like the Civic Hybrid, but most of the GP1s would be in their final stages due to their age. -GP1 is a more like your usual Petrol car without any serious differences in driving experiences, and the powertrain is really smooth. But GP5 is filled with more electronics. You’ll get a Prius style gear shifter and a parking brake switch. I personally find that the powertrain of the GP5 is unrefined. Some times there is a delay to kick in the engine. But when you put your foot down it just rockets out. -I find that the driving the GP1 in the traffic is a bit hard until you get used to it, because when you leave the breaks the car feels like its in a hurry to go even without pressing the accelerator. Haven’t noticed that in the GP5. -GP5 is one of the most favourite cars that I would love to DRIVE.1 point
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Hi All, This is an update and the fix that worked with my idle issue. I did all what is mentioned below in the same day so I cant pin point to exactly what actually worked, but after doing below the issue is no more, Replaced the TPS with a brand new one. Gave a separate earth wire to the TPS as we weren't sure whether there was a misconception in the original earth wire for the TPS. Cleaned the wire harness connectors (there was a bit of oil in the main connector) Cleaned the entire fuse box to make sure there were no lose connections. Removed the newly fixed stepper motor and cleaned the entire surface with brake cleaner and fixed it again. Thanks everyone for the help.1 point
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No, it's not recommended. But if you're asking if you can drive the car like this for a while, then probably* - if you're prepared to replace the pressure plate also as part of the repair, because the worn out bearing will damage the diaphragm springs of the pressure plate, rendering the pressure plate unusable. If you attend to the problem now, you might be able to save the pressure plate. Having said that, if your car has a hydraulic clutch (I'm not sure about the AE 110, I'm guessing it's hydraulic), you might run the risk of damaging the clutch slave cylinder which will cause the clutch to fail totally. If the clutch and brake share a common hydraulic reservoir, then your brakes could also fail. So the bottom line is, the more you delay the repair, the more expensive (and risky) it is going to be. *All of the above is assuming that this noise is due to a worn out release bearing1 point
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carboy2011 !! yes, here we can see few versions of TRAD sunny. 1.Half light version 2.Full ight version Half light version 1.4FWD version with semi optioin ( A/C P/S ) black carburator model. came with 1300cc engine 2.5FWD version with full option Ex Saloon 1500CC carburator model. 3.5FWD version with full option Ex SaloonGII vertion 4.5FWD version with full option Super Saloon 5.5FWD version with full option Super Saloon Velvet interior 1500cc EFI engine which called highest grade on Half light vertion. Full Light Version 1.4FWD version with semi optioin ( A/C P/S ) black carburator model. came with 1300cc engine (B12) 2.5FWD version with semi optioin ( A/C P/S ) Electric carburator model. came with 1500cc engine (a) one came with semi option luxary interior (FB12) ( other one came with normal interior ( may be B12) 3.5FWD Ex saloon vertion Full option Electric carburator model. came with 1500cc 4.5FWD Super saloon vertion Full option Electric carburator model. came with 1500cc 5.5FWD version with full option Super Saloon Velvet interior 1500cc EFI engine which called highest grade on Half light vertion. chk the ad # Full light 5fwd vertions are having a good market than other ones. fuel consumption is between 12-15kmpl. these i have leared when i was hunting for a trad sunny few years back. i may be wrong on some informations. if so pls correct me. Good Luck !!!!!1 point
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