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  1. 8 points
    i will summarise what the Teg has been through from 2014 to 2018, in the next few blog posts. ENGINE The car went through 3 additional rebuilds since the first before things start working aright. indika was not the man to have done this with, as he had no experience with B series hondas, and my vision was lost on him. i was severely restricted by the budget of my dreams so i couldn't afford any better. having said that, i have spent 3 times more doing cheap repairs 4 times over than i have spent doing it right, once, with sabry at PAS. the reason my Brian Crower cams were not producing power was that i had not raised the compression adequately in my cylinders. as i was unaware of this, i was running stock compression, which was 10.8:1, which is the lowest compression honda designed for the B series: the GS-R auto. the BC website quite bluntly states that one has to have at least a CR of 12:1 for their cams to work. in this light i was experiencing something like "anti-VTEC" where the normal lobes created oodles of power and when the wild lobes are engaged the car bogs down due to compression and fuelling inadequacies. on this discovery, and being at a bad place personally at the time, i gave up on the BC cams, thinking i have reached the end of my limits with the Teg and i will not be able to complete this. for the first time in my life, i compensated. i backed out. i sold the cams to Rumesh Rajakulendran, who was building his BabyMilo EK9 racecar, and reverted to my auto GSR cams. it was a very low point to have seen those cams go. worse yet, Ruma was thrashing every event he entered and winning by a country mile. he never forgot to acknowledge me and the cams. to add to this, a few months beyond this incident, sabry and i were trying to tune it, and the engine broke. the bearings had given way. and so began... 1. the second rebuild i have her this time to a local garage, Shafiq's, in attidiya. he had a lot of experience i was told with B series hondas, and he seemed to know what he was doing. shafiq then pulled everything apart to find out that one of my chambers is not in line with the others. this required an overbore to remove the discrepancy, and bigger pistons. at this juncture Ashan Silva was kind enough to gift me a set of P72 +25bore Civic Type R pistons, which i used in the rebuild. the bearing failure had also cut the crank, so i had to machine the crank as well. sadly this rebuild lasted the 2000km break in time, and the bearings gave way again while i was on the highway to galle, and it was back to shafiq's for... 2. the third rebuild. the bore was ok now, but the crank had got cut again, and i was given the choice of machining it yet again, and then limping around, as it would not last many trips to 9000+ rpm, or buy a new crank. a crank from honda was around 80,000, while an entire B20B non VTEC CRV engine in toto was 55,000. the choice was obvious. so we harvested the crank from that engine and did the third rebuild. at this point i did some research and came to the conclusion that it was not a good idea to mix and match parts, such as take a b20 crank, pair it with b18 pistons and con rods, and then use a b18 head, as the measurements are all different. the garage thought naught of this and then went ahead. and again, i did the 2000km break in, and was on the dyno tuning it with sabry. the second power run produced 189whp and 280Nm of torque. and then the bearings broke. the engine seized. and this it was time again for *-drum roll please-* 3. THE FOURTH REBUILD!! i was out of money, out of patience, at my wits end. my dream had fallen apart. i cannot adequately communicate to you the dejection i felt when this broke for the third time. my heart just froze over and i was beyond emotion. this was it. Project R had come to its end. with a son on the way and a house planned to be built, i was drained. this was my strength, my love and my life and it has just broken down for what i thought was the last time. i needed space. time. to think this through. one thing was for sure, i was done giving the car to half baked garages. this needed a pro. i wanted this fixed. so i sent her to Platinum as i wanted Sabry to repair it. someday. he removed the engine and i brought the body home. where it went up on jack stands and stayed that way until i could either afford a rebuild, or i made up my mind to sell her for parts and keep the Book. she stayed this way for 8 months. during which time i removed the tyres, and stored them in my room, and every sunday i would head out, and wash her, clean the interior and apply siddhalepa on the rexin surfaces to keep away fungus. this was my ritual once a week for 8 months. until such time i could find the means to afford a rebuild, and sabry could bring the parts down. the day finally did arrive, and boy did sabry pull out a corker. he had plans. big plans. he wanted to do right by me what numerous other people couldn't, and he made this his pet project. we decided to use the block from the b20 engine i had, as my b18 block was fried. and anyhow a b20 would have better lower end torque and thus be an easier daily driver. also my head was perfect. there was no signs of valve or spring wear and it was functioning normally. i had during this time installed a set of ITR camshafts also, and we thought we'd leave that just as it is. so the B20 block was harvested and bored to 2100cc. everything else was brand new. we ordered... 1. An Eagle crankshafft. aluminium. rated for 1500whp, 2. Wiseco pistons and connecting rods. custom made for my b20 block/b18autoGSR head, to produce a CR of 13.0:1. 3. a block guard was installed as the chambers of the b20 are larger, and thus weaker than the b18. the b20 had a redline of 7200rpm. we were pushing the 10,000 limiter again. so a block guard is necessary to prevent the chambers from warping. 4. ACL bearings 5. 510cc EVO 4 injectors, with impedance reset to match the requirement 6. AEM 320LPH high flow fuel pump, with a fuel pressure regulator. sabry took about three weeks for the work, and she was out again in all her glory. she was built with massive tolerances, where, would i ever need to scratch that itch, a set of aftermarket cams or even boost upto 0.8 bar would be easily handled. she was built to last. i do have to appreciate the effort Sabry put into this, as at one point he had made a mistake on the height of the connecting rods, and he sent them back to wiseco to get down the right ones wiseco refused to refund as the mistake was not theirs. sabry bought a new set for the right measurement out of his own pocket. i've switched over to LiquiMOLY MOS2 10w-40 oil, and it has been smooth sailing so far. it is only now, that Project R has truly come alive.
  2. 7 points
    It's been a great year for all of us, especially with the new updates and resources added to AutoLanka Forum. We are committed to keep moving forward to ensure that we provide a platform to discuss and find all things related to motoring free of charge. On behalf of Team Autolanka I would like to thank our senior members, moderators and new members for their utmost contribution and support throughout the year. I would like to make this an opportunity to appreciate the hard work done by following senior members @iRage @Davy @Crosswind @Rumesh88 who have gone extra steps during the time of need by helping out our fellow members and earned top 4 ranks in Autolanka Leaderboard for the year 2017! Here's to 2018 and all the adventures it brings. Wish All Auto Lankans A Very Happy New Year 2018!! Enjoy & Drive Safe!!
  3. 6 points
    that'll be the end of weird status updates like ' my shoelace got tangled in the engine cooling fan' , ' i accidentally dropped a potato in the wiper fluid resevoir' etc
  4. 6 points
    Guess who’s back, bit#hes! Time to end this. Project R is very nearly finished. It’s been four years since I posted anything and so much has happened since then. Not gonna bore you with details but will try to 1. Update the old photo links 2. Summarise what has happened since then. 3. Cover future plans. Heres a teaser for now
  5. 5 points
    one of the greatest joys of having a car that actually runs and doesn't sit in the garage more often than it does at home, is that i can actually leather it now and then. this is one thing i am eternally grateful to PAS and Sabry for: for coming through with what they promised and building a car to last. it was on his insistence that i entered the drags. i stood no chance fromm the get go. i was in the 1800cc-2500cc NA class, and i was up against 5 other competitors who brought drag prepped monsters carried there on trailers. while i drove my daily whip to the track, raced, and drove back. but with a qualifying time in the 15s range, with the winner running 12s, i'm quite pleased! i was loaned a pair of semi slicks for the race. this is why i love this community. the love, people. the love! our resident rice police @VVTi and @Bugatti both took part in the one make BMW event, and i was sharing their tent space, feeling much like the Geisha to a platoon of SS soldiers... ^^this, by far, is my favourite shot. this is going on a wall somewhere. Built. Driven. Inspired. with Sacha Peiris in his Babyzilla here's the two time trials: and here's the qualifier. i was booted out after this. but hey, i'll be back! this was easily the most fun day of my entire life. to actually have a car that could run a race, and then go home in, to me, was the real victory. and while i sat there, on the start line, with the throttle blipping on launch control, i realized i didn't even have to run the race. i'd already won. the result was immaterial! <-- this was how the other 5 cars went home. mine is still proudly daily driven. all i did was remove the stickers.
  6. 5 points
    Yes it's ok. You don't need to ask for permission to buy a vehicle from a random automotive forum.
  7. 4 points
    Yes. You need to remove used fluid but emptying the gear box is not the way to do it. For most auto transmissions you can follow following DIY steps. 1. Note the fluid capacity of the box. It is in the region of 6 - 8 litres for most common cars. Buy the required amount of fluid with one to two litres in excess. 2. Identify the fluid output line from the fluid cooler to the gear box. If you are not sure of it, disconnect any one of the lines, keep a bucket below to capture spilling fluid, and get someone to start the engine for just a few seconds to identify the output side. 3. Run the engine until it comes to its working temperature range. 4. Drain fluid by removing the drain plug. Usually only about 2 - 3L will be drained out. Rest of the fluid will be retained in the transconverter and valve body. Allow to drain for a couple of hours if possible unless you intend to execute Step 5 below. Otherwise skip to Step 6. Fix the drain plug back. 5. (Optional) Remove the fluid sump, inspect and clean the magnets, inspect and replace fluid filter and fix the sump back with a new packing. Inspect the magnets and filter for metal and fiber shavings. That will give you an idea of the state of the gear box. This step may be only necessary in every other fluid change or if the fluid is severely discolored . 6. Remove the fluid output line from the fluid cooler. Connect it to a clear plastic tubing (usually a 3/8 or 1/4 inch diameter one from a hardware shop will do but check the inner diameter of the tube first). Keep the other end of the clear tube in a bucket of 4 to 6 L capacity to capture drained fluid. Plug the free end of the fluid return inlet to the gear box just to create an additional vacuum when the fluid is drained out. Make sure that any dirt and debris do not make their way into the gear box during this process. 7. Keep a funnel (some cases a long neck one or a tube attached to a normal funnel may be necessary) and fluid cans ready to pour in as and when you empty the cans. 8. Fill up the gear box to the top mark of the dip stick and get someone to start the engine. Go on filling fluid as the used fluid in the transconverter is being drained out now. Keep an eye on the clear tube connected to the fluid cooler output for a change in the fluid color from dark to clear. As soon as new fluid comes out through the clear tube stop the engine. 9. Fix the cooler lines back, start the engine and with the engine running adjust the fluid level to the mark on the dip stick. The procedure above is somewhat generalized but should be good for most common auto transmissions. (Hope I didn't miss out on any details). Edit: Forgot to add a detail to step 8. While adding new fluid with the engine running, get someone to change the gears from P to the bottom and all the way back again to P pausing at each gear for a couple of seconds.
  8. 4 points
  9. 4 points
    Learner's permit is issued for 17-year olds only for the purpose of practicing driving. A learner's permit holder has not sat for the practical test so he cannot ride alone/go with friends etc. Liability depends on the way the accident happened. Failure to avoid an accident is also an offence. If the police has filed a case against you, then you will end up having to pay a fine. However, the learner's permit holder will most likely have his license withheld for a long time as he may be found guilty of more than one offence. You only need a lawyer if the police has filed a case against you. Otherwise get on with your life. You won't hear about it again.
  10. 4 points
    Hi, Yes monocular vision driving is allowed in sri lanka under some conditions.(I'm a guy with monocular vision and got the licence [through the legal process]). They allow to drive a car(should be registered under your name) with additional side mirrors.Licence should be renew in two years period and they are printing the vehicle no on the backside of the driver's licence.Hope this helps cheers!!!
  11. 3 points
    Hi, Even it is a Mercedes Benz imported by Micro, I will not recommend to buy it from them. These people will strip you and disappoint you form the very first day you buy the car. Based on my own experiences I would recommend to stay away from Micro. Some of the experiences I have: 1. No responsibility of importing spare parts timely, it will take months for importation. However, they will say a new shipment will arrive in the next month. 2. Often no spare parts in stocks 3. Lot of cheating to grab money as much as possible, especially if they come to know you are not much familiar with mechanics 4. Ever increasing price of spare parts, as there are no competitors. 5. Even there can be assembling defects from the company, they will not take any responsibility if the vehicle is out side the warranty period.
  12. 3 points
    My in-Laws Had a lot of bad experiences with an IO, Bought it new from Japan at 3000kms and used till 114,000k Let me list the bits that needed replacing in that run Master ECU - Car was garage ridden over 8 months till one was sourced Wiring loom- No evidence of rats, the short in the ecu baked bits of the loom, - so another month or so till a loom was found, then again the ECU with the loom was needed for it to fire Transfer Box / 4wd ECU entire kit again was running in 4H for about 6 months 4WD Shifter mechanism / Inhibitor switch sorta thing Minor running bits such as bushings - bits are hard to find, and repairs need to be done with a worthwhile garage or agent yet All of the above sourced at Delkanda time to time However the agents have almost all bits including rarer body panels for the price though The rear door was replaced there due to a collision Also it came with a JDM Spec OEM display all Japanese, that thing fried along the way throwing daily error codes Also the OBD protocol is not that of the standard lot. Electrical bits on that was a nightmare from the windows to interior lights Ran on 95, no issues with GDI though Check out the photos, this is how it was most of its time with us AVOID Older or high mileage ones unless they are taken care of exceptionally well.
  13. 3 points
    If you have driven a 121 which is clocked around 150,000 why are you afraid of the 112,000 of the Axio? Engine must be in perfect condition except for few minor issues which can be sorted out by regular bass uncle. Macho, bear in mind that all most all cars in Sri Lanka have concocted mileages. Don't go and look for low mileage cars but look for car with good engine and body. P.S. The cool civics were actually the cars from 1990s. They haven't made a JDM hero after the EK series except for the brand new model they released recently IMHO.
  14. 3 points
    Pick whichever one you like best and get that. End of discussion.
  15. 3 points
    I thought the question was super-intelligent, until I saw this answer:
  16. 3 points
    The bonnet is fixable. The bigger problem is these days most body shops are too lazy to fix them and want to take the quick way out by just simply replacing the part. Also, tinkering is an art-form which most of the newbies simply don't seem to have any decent skill in (or don't care much about) to actually do a proper fix.
  17. 3 points
    if some one has 8 million and if that person can compromise and go for a Premio over Mazda 6 just only because of resale value and the market, then the best option is compromise more and go for a micro geely MX 7 (used) and put rest 6+ million in a FD (3 months, interest added back to capital when renew). after 5 year FD will grow very close to 13 million. it is profitable even you had to discard the MX 7.
  18. 2 points
    Civic Threads ...Civic threads ...everywhere i think we are in for something like the vezel epidemic of 2014
  19. 2 points
    Actually I would personally prefer Spacia over wagon R, if there's no significant cost difference. Spacia can carry more luggage (suitable for airport hires) and you can lug around your old junk whenever necessary. I know a bloke who owns a Spacia who transports everything from bags of cement to steel structures in his car. Another idea is to consider an Every (passenger version). Again, I am not certain about the price differences but I happen to travel in Uber quite often and there was one Every that came to pick me up one day. It was probably the least troublesome ride I had on Uber.
  20. 2 points
    Yep, this is the next Vezel
  21. 2 points
    A new car is always a new car, no matter how you look at it.
  22. 2 points
    If the leak is through the sump packing it is not a big deal. I hope the packing was replaced with a new one during the overhaul. However, before replacing with a new packing the sump must be checked for warping and dents particularly at the mounting holes. Once they are corrected there is no reason for fluid to leak through the sump packing. However, the leak can be from other places like connection to the oil cooler. This must be checked with the engine running as Crosswind explained above. But take care if you decide to go under the car with the engine running and gear in D!
  23. 2 points
    A good way to speed up fluid draining out is to remove the filler bolt or dipstick (whichever exists) before taking out the drain plug. This increases the flow of oil from the drain outlet depending on the design of the transmission.
  24. 2 points
    We have quite a few other models with Direct Injected engines...why aren't you staying away from them ? The GDI engines (along with other DI engines from other manufacturers) have had issues with knocking and other issues related to poor fuel quality. But that does not mean it is worst than the plague. You just have to be a little bit more disciplined and committed to taking care of it properly. In fact the iO is quite a nippy little baby SUV. It has a much better and proper 4wd system compared to others in the category and it accelerates like crazy. EDIT : Also, if I am not mistaken there are quite a few Montero iO around which were imported from the UK and the agent which does not have the GDI engine.
  25. 2 points
    If I were you, I would go for an old Fiat Punto. They may have terrible resale value (which is an advantage for you). You can get a 300- or a 19- within your budget. Fiats of the 90s are very reliable and very economical. Parts are also available in Panchikawatta (mostly Indian made so they aren't expensive). Only problem is you have to keep replying to morons who ask "ayyo... ayi Piyat ekak gatthe" Some more options I can think of, are Perodua Kancil, Daihatsu Mira (both are same), K10 March and Nissan AD Wagon. PS. Indica is a rust bucket. I don't have words to describe Chery QQs
  26. 2 points
    Chaw all this depends on the budget you’re willing to allocate to this. An engine swap is messy. It will take time, you don’t know the condition of the engine you’re buying and then there’s the whole process with the RMV. If you have the cash and the patience AND the luck go for a d series efi vtec engine. If you’re slightly insane I’ll even say B16. But repairing the current engine or doing an efi conversion would be a good option for you if the budget is restrictive. Why not first get a proper diagnosis as to what’s the issue. Oil burning most likely is due to engine wear and you might be up for a rebuild if it has run 250,000 without one. That in itself is a costly affair. But at least it won’t cost you as much as a new engine and you would have an excellent reference point to your own car as you’re sure all components are new and has been fixed. We cant decide for you. That depends on the above parameters I’ve mentioned. But what we can do is advise you on the pros and cons of each. Let me know if you need any further guidance.
  27. 2 points
    Im bumping this thread up due to the plethora of new members who have joined autolanka to look for 1000cc options. Please note that if you are seeking what car to buy advice, please let us know your requirements. An example for a good question is: I am looking to buy a 1000cc hatchback car which can carry 5 family members and I normally drive 500km per month. I prefer good fuel economy but can compromise on comfort. Examples for poor questions are: 1. Should I buy a 1000cc Vitz or Baleno? - no requirements given 2. I need a car that is powerful, good fuel economy, comfortable, cheap to maintain and has good resale value - you cant have everything from one car 3. Should I buy BMW 520D or 318M Sport? - not an apples to apples comparison Also please don't ask us to choose a car for you. You wouldn't ask your friends to choose your life partner. Expect us to give advise to help you choose. At the end, it's your decision. Oh... if you seek our advise, you cant compare that with what car sale guys say. This is like going to a kattadiya to seek treatment for arthritis. If you wish to take kattadiya's treatment, don't come to us.
  28. 2 points
  29. 2 points
    "Free upgrades" lol. All of these are recalls and they're meant to do these for free anyway. Like I saw recently on Facebook, "marketing nam ithin Lankaawa thamai".
  30. 2 points
    You have a point, but take the WRX from the same era (or even the new one) for example. Also a rally car but it sits much better than an Evo in it's stock form IMO. I guess what I meant was the gap between the wheel and the fender, not the height. The stock tyre profile of the WRX for example (245/40R18) is better than the RalliArt tyres (225/45R18). This fills the wheel well nicely, leaving only a little gap. The gap on the Evo is actually much much better than the RalliArt. If you check my photos with Evo X wheels on, you can notice that the gap is a bit narrow. It appears this way due to the higher positive offset of the rim, making it sit closer to the lip of the fender.
  31. 2 points
    So should I start the “chooned by Komi” section and go on about evo Conversions and whatnot? Congrats man! Highly belated but hey, the ball-licking lion is back!
  32. 2 points
    Every time I see this interior, it makes my heart leap. There should be a picture of this dashboard in the Sinhala dictionary under the phrase "Budu Ammo!".
  33. 2 points
    Great to be back tho. Need to rescue this forum from the thel hingannas!
  34. 2 points
    Most of these air fresheners are toxic you know. A couple of hours a day in such a confined space and inhaling all these toxins is just not good for your health. Keep the interior clean and tidy and you will not have to use air fresheners.
  35. 2 points
    Well..comfort would be there....even if you get the lower grade ones you will get the basic of creature comforts. A petrol SUV..resale value...well that can go either way....there are people who will happily buy a petrol SUV but most would prefer a diesel. The thing is I don't think you should be looking at a petrol SUV if resale value and petrol consumption are high on your list of concerns. Just buy the Premio...
  36. 2 points
  37. 2 points
    For the vibration/wobbly engine, get the engine mounts checked out. It's difficult to diagnose noises without seeing and listening to it. It could be a worn out bearing in a pulley, to a failing water pump. Share a video if possible.
  38. 2 points
    The important question is what is your ambition? Do you want to work as a mechanic? Do you want to work as a workshop supervisor? Do you want to build vehicles? Design vehicles? Also please don't open multiple threads for the same topic PS. I*BT is one of the worst in the country for any damn course. I was an academic sometime ago so I know that for a fact.
  39. 2 points
    Warm wishes for the new year fellas.. (Better late than, never.. ) Have a great year ahead. As always, sincere gratitude to @MADZ for running this wonderful place opened for everyone creating many bridges amongst the motoring community in this country. And @iRage @Davy @Crosswind @Rumesh88 keep up the good work guys! Cheers!!
  40. 2 points
    Happy New Year to team AL and all member! Well done @iRage @Davy @Crosswind @Rumesh88 & keep up the good work guys.
  41. 2 points
    Well done @iRage @Davy @Crosswind @Rumesh88 and Happy New year to all fellow Autolankans! Drive safe.
  42. 2 points
    Ya got to keep the mods to a sane level, or else no one will buy it from you when you want to sell it.Any idea of your budget for this? TT.
  43. 2 points
  44. 2 points
    I really can't help you there, because I buy my cars looking at using them and enjoying them as much as possible, NOT thinking about what the resale is going to be like. If you're that concerned about the return, maybe you should put the money in an FD and take alternative transport?
  45. 2 points
    FD1 balanced power : weight car.... extra urban does 12 to 14 depending on driving pattern.... two variants for Asian Domestic Models : 1.8 GL and 1.8S - comes with paddle shift, cruise control, 9 to10 km/l extra urban 14km/l max... both the cars shares 5 speed. Auto or manual tranny (non cvt)
  46. 1 point
    bunch of used vehicles available for that price if it's sedans only that you're interested in : Mazda 3/Axela (2007-2008) Lancer CS3(2010+) Nissan Tiida 2010 onward to name a few . Yaris/Belta are also an option but they are 1.3 L and extremely bland vehicles. Insights (2011) and Civics (FD1 2006-7, FD3 2009-2010, are also in your range. you can also get 2011ish Koreans in good nick for that price. There aren't too many 'trouble-some' cars - it's almost always down to maintenance. Find a well maintained car and make sure you also maintain it well and that;s it.
  47. 1 point
    A good set of maintenance practices and good driving without thrashing your car will most likely increase the life span of the engine but again will depend on many reasons. electronics will most likely degrade but again you cannot say when n where this can happen. I saw awhile back a Subaru Impreza Southern highway patrol car logging in 500k ODO at the Agents
  48. 1 point
    with the agent you get warranty plus if there's any recall from the manufacturer it's their responsibility to handle it. Grey imports do not come with that luxury.
  49. 1 point
    First 2 questions were discussed a lot in Autolanka.. do one thing search through the forum , compile everything and write a blog that definitely will help everyone to broaden their knowladge... for market value , browsing xxxxx for a while give you an idea, there is nothing called true value for used cars in sri lanka after-all you have to buy it for the price the seller wants to sell.. Note for member: Please do not mention other car sales websites on AL
  50. 1 point
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