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  1. 3 points
    Did he come to work from Homagama in reverse ? First time i heard someone sell a vehicle because the revers gear doesnt work.
  2. 3 points
    No. Never. When that happens most probably it is the alternator brushes but it can be a diode or the regulator in some cases. The point that Davy is trying to emphasize is wen you have a dashboard indication you should begin diagnosis from the alternator. However, faults like alternator brushes wearing out does not happen overnight and you wouldn't get any indication for sometime. Meanwhile you continue to run with an undercharged battery resulting in battery cells getting covered with hard lead sulfate and eventually reducing the battery capacity. But still when you have a battery indication you must begin your diagnosis from the alternator. As for battery indication on low RPM well that is how it indicate a alternator brush failure or a failure in a single diode. For all the cars I have been until 2014 (before I switched to a hybrid) I set a target life of 4 years even with the automatic cars. Whenever I leave the car unattended for more than a week I keep the battery on a float charger. After two years of battery life, I make it a point to check the system voltage once every two weeks (or so) with all electrical load switched on and engine RPM at 2000. If the voltage is below the typical value for the car (each car as its own value close to 14V) I get the alternator checked. As for the battery health my only check is listening to the starter motor in the morning. If there is a slightest drag or a hesitation I change the battery the same day. I do not believe in battery testers in those shops but my methods never let me down.
  3. 3 points
    Let me address each point: A "battery tester" is no different from a fancy voltage meter. The gauge on the tester is basically a voltage range with green being used for "normal" voltages and red being used for "out of range" voltages. A multimeter does the same thing and I've been using them for years to test batteries. They're always spot on. You can do a perfect diagnosis if you have a workshop manual with you because it will have all normal voltage ranges specified. Of course you can't check the battery at the terminals and lave it at that. You need to test the voltage on load as well and it should still indicate a stable, healthy voltage. The multimeter can even be used to check each cell of a battery if it's not a maintenance free one. You simply have to open up the cell (being careful not get acid burn) and insert the + probe of the multimeter into it while using the - probe to touch the - terminal of the battery. Just watch the video below. If as you say "voltage is just an indication", the multimeter in this video should have just shown a constant 12V throughout. But notice how it drops down to just below 10V when the starter motor is drawing a high current. Your P = VI argument isn't valid because P is never constant in a car. With each electrical accessory you turn on and off, P changes and therefore I (amperage) changes and V needs to compensate for those changes. So this is a good indication as to how the charging system is working. I think you contradicted your own argument here. My point is that there is a fault in the current flow from alternator to battery (i.e. charging circuit). There is simply no way the battery indicator can light up just because your battery is low. That's just not how it works. Also, all alternators have a voltage regulator to make sure that a stable DC voltage is output regardless of what the engine RPM is. By your logic, the alternator outputs one voltage at idle and increasing voltages as the RPM increases. Again... doesn't work that way.
  4. 3 points
    The thing is, for most people the rationale of trying to sell their car now is that they hope they can sell it for a high price and then buy a newer car for a lower price when the taxes go down after the budget.
  5. 3 points
    Well...with the budget around the corner it seems like everyone is trying to sell their cars because there are "stories" going around about taxes getting lowered. The thing is...even though you decide to advertise the car and try to sell it...people might not necessarily buy. After all, they too hear the same stories that the seller hear. So they might end up buying if and only if they believe the car is cheap enough.
  6. 3 points
    Well since you accidentally got into the forum you should have "accidentally" used the search before opening threads since this has been discussed.
  7. 3 points
  8. 2 points
    Just a heads up , Honda hybrids don't get a spare and doesn't have a space for one either. In Toyota it's optional. I personally don't find it safe driving around without a spare wheel.
  9. 2 points
    A small Suggestion Why don't we with moderators support of course make a single thread index sorta thing, with useful contacts of Mechanics, Painters, Tinkers, Electricians, A/C Technicians, Spare parts, fibre joints, so on, from city to city, Islandwide even relevant to particular makes, models Based on past experience and personal views as well, on trust basis too someday it may come in handy to any of us, say we go outstation, or we buy a different car, Just an idea, feel free to share opinions, of course one persons opinion on one place may vary to another's but still all this info may come as the world to another noob looking for some help fixing his car. Like they say, Good help is hard to find! Cheers
  10. 2 points
    ECM measures the pressures at the inlet and outlet side of DPF. the readings are calibrated in a way to detect if DPF is blocked above a certain percentage,and then the Regene mechanism is activated. Instead of regular 2~6 injections during normal driving , REGEN-mode has about 6~9 injections one Piston cycle,but added at the very late phase towards BDC and very short needle opening times(~500uS per Injection) compared to the regular driving(500uS~2.5mS per Injection). So I doubt if it has any big impact on Fuel consumption if the sum of needle open times during REGN mode increases only by about 1mS.
  11. 2 points
    Only someone in the caliber of Sumanadasa can give you an answer (I'm sure you know what happened to the one who took him seriously last time) . The rumor circulating these days gives the notion that govt would reduce the tax for vehicles with less than 1.0L engine capacity. Of course that doesn't make sense but that's the way the budget proposals has been over the years. However why are you worried about it unless of course you are either planning to leave the country or to do away with private transport in furture? If the car prices comes down in future you will sell your car for less and buy the replacement for less. Same applies if the car prices go up. So either way it is not all that bad. Just my opinion.
  12. 2 points
    Use mazna for things like ATF changes, ecu diagnostics and fairly complicated issues that the average garage wont be able to diagnose. Other than that there is really no need for a specific "Mazda" specialized place for simple repairs since the bj5p is a fairly simple cars to maintain. If you need to repair the gearbox show it to Nilwala motors in madiwela.
  13. 2 points
    Hi Buddhi_1 Rumesh88 given a good comparison. But Don't be scared for the technology. I use Honda Grace. Almost same. No issues in DCT if you look after the car well. Go to a reputed place for your periodic service. Change the Duel Clutch oil too while you change the gear oil at 40000. Normally I check DC oil in every other service. If slugged or not good I change. It cost only Rs.3000.00. No issues and gives a good Driving pleasure. As rumesh88 said " Trend, GP5 is much preferred by the younger generation"
  14. 2 points
    The agent sells the Honda HR-V which is the export market variant of the Vezel. It only comes in 1.5L (or is it 1.8L) gasoline variant. The Vezel, which is the Japanese market version of the same car, comes in Hybrid or 1.5L gasoline form; where most of the units brought down to SL being the Hybrid variant. The Vezel comes with a few more bells and whistles than the HR-V. If you search the forums you will find the pros and cons of the Vezel including technical issues. As for the two sources. Well....the agent is always the safer options as they offer the manufacturer's warranty and stand by it. If they don't you can always escalate within Honda Motor Corp. With private dealers you are pretty much at the mercy of the the dealers. There are a few decent ones but most are pretty much all flash and no substance. you know..the type who will offer you the sun and the moon before the sale but give you the cold shoulder afterwards ? The dealers usually offer third party warranties like Sterling. Claiming warranty can go either way. The Japanese Honda agent's warranty (which is what the Vezel would carry) would not be transferable to the local Honda agent. Sometimes the third party dealer's are able to claim parts from the Japanese agent but you can't always count on that. I have no idea about the price difference, but considering the tax difference between gasoline (what the agent offers) and hybrid (what dealers offer) variants, it could be quite significant. Plus the agent will add up for more comprehensive warranty coverage. So it will be up to you to decide if the price difference is worth the risk between the two sources, etc... Also, the Honda agent is one of the better agents in Sl and so far they haven't had any issues in supporting grey imports from Japan, as long as you are willing t pay for it. So I would say research the car, go to both sources and see which one works for you.
  15. 2 points
    Is it your budget the only selection criteria? What about the other things? If I may list down some in random order, - Features, for me it is GP5 - Driving pleasure, again it is GP5 - Fuel economy, for city driving it is Aqua. At highway speeds GP5 performs better. - Interior, GP5 it is. Aqua interior is tasteless. - Trend, GP5 is much preferred by the younger generation - Reliability, Aqua it is. GP5 has duel clutch transmission (DCT) which gives better driving experience over Toyota's Power Split Device (PSD) drive, but DCT can fail prematurely unless you are very careful with maintenance. However one cannot call it a "defect" although there has been recalls and firmware updates. It is something inherent to clutch based transmissions. PSD is much more reliable. - Overall maintenance cost, Aqua is more economical. - Resale value, well everybody in SL knows it.
  16. 1 point
    Sorry mate, I didn't see your post. I'll add few photos.
  17. 1 point
    No auto of this age will do 10+ in city. If one is very light footed he will get 9-ish max. Im heavy footed and i rarely pass 8. However on long distances i have even gotten 14.5 with 3 passengers and cargo while being driven hard. If one babies it, shouldn't be too hard to go beyond 16+ even.
  18. 1 point
    Sri Lanka is the only country in the world where car prices are going up against depreciation. Ex: price of 1996 manufactured 110 was around 9 laks in 2003 >> around 1.3 m in 2007 >> around 1.8m in 2017. So in 2020 ...any guess ??? If it was in another country, it would have been wrecked long time ago..
  19. 1 point
    I want something comfortable and can navigate traffic well. It also has to look nice, not the generic bloated japanese look.
  20. 1 point
    One simple thing is buddi, check the service history. Then you can have idea on the way previous owner maintained it(DCT). Almost everybody who maintain his vehicle properly and loving the stuff always keep a file of maintenance records. Just buy vehicles only on that kind of users then you will never be trouble with any technology.
  21. 1 point
    LOL Non independent rears are connected to each wheel with a beam. On front wheel drives the rear is just a beam. on rear wheel drive its the rear axle itself Independent rears come in many forms but multilink is the most common. You can identify these easily because links from each wheel is connected to the body and not connected to each wheel.
  22. 1 point
    Both are there but coil being separate is the most common. This way saves some trunk space but sacrifices independent tire movement.
  23. 1 point
    Aha thanks, K11s are seems trouble Elite seems an good option
  24. 1 point
    This is for clarification. Isn't Prius and Aqua using the same transmission system ? CVT ?
  25. 1 point
    You can not get a decent condition Japanese model for that price. Higher mileage may cost you lot of time and money. Just an advice. Good Luck with your search
  26. 1 point
    It seems Honda recently closed their oldest lead factory in Saitama, Japan. http://www.google.de/url?q=https://www.reuters.com/article/us-honda-strategy/honda-to-cut-japanese-production-by-a-quarter-as-domestic-sales-stagnate-idUSKCN1C90N3&sa=U&ved=0ahUKEwjYyJqG_-XWAhVM7xQKHTPbA2sQFggSMAM&usg=AOvVaw1c9S5iU5rHgi8hXp76--g9 with the fast changes in the auto industry worldwide, it would be difficult for small Japanese carmakers to survive without forming alliances with others to share the costs of new development and production line changes.
  27. 1 point
    Swift -> The best out of the lot. The other 3 are more or less the same- very bland cars.
  28. 1 point
    Seems your bumper shock mount broken, this might occur when you hit road bumps with full load (excess weight distributed to shock) , and one of the main reason to make shock failure in Allion and Premio. Recently I changed my rear mount I got a nasty hit with full load and ended with ABS Sensor failure and broken mount. The repair guy told me to replace the mount asap cause it will cost my shock if i run with it for prolonged period. Seems that's the problem you got now The mount will cost 2.5K if you get it from T.Lanka (Recommended).
  29. 1 point
    Take it to place like Pet#o Seems like some sort of firmware issue or lock. Maybe these unit needs to be updated from time to time.
  30. 1 point
    thanks for your advice Twin Turbo
  31. 1 point
    Please search the forum.
  32. 1 point
    Daily I am driving up and down to Colpetty though Kandy road, Kelani Bridge and Baseline road for work. I the evenings I see lot prime movers ( container carriers) passing around Grandpass, Baseline road creating long waits for office traffic moving out Colombo. If anyone here happened to observe that ? I think it is ridiculous that SLPA is not using its dedicated railway line for transporting these containers in/out to some transfer station away from the congested roads. This move could save lot of time , money and reduce air pollution by many time.
  33. 1 point
    Agree with you @Rumesh88. The changes will effect only to 'Baiyas'. (buying & selling people, Not opposite of Toiya)
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    searches don't mean a damn - i'm sure there are searches in the 'lakhs' range about Ebola, Cancer, Ring worms, halitosis , herpes etc.
  36. 1 point
    Okay...so Suzuki's SHVS (Smart Hybrid Vehicle by Suzuki) now has two Hybrid systems. A Full Hybrid system (which is still available only in the Solio and Swift) and a Mild Hybrid System. The full Hybrid system has a dark blue badge with silver lettering on a black background and the Mild Hybrid has a light blue badge with blue lettering on a silver background. For now Suzuki's ideology is that a mild hybrid system is best suited for kei cars (cars with 660cc engines). Therefore, the full Hybrid system is reserved for larger cars like the Swift, etc... The Wagon R comes with the Mild Hybrid system. The Mild Hybrid system is pretty much the next generation of the S-ene charge. Thus, all the "new" kei cars come with the new Mild hybrid system and is badged as "Hybrid" as I described above. The Spacia, still being the model released in 2013 comes with the older version of the mild Hybrid, i.e. S-ene charge. A new Spacia is supposed to be launched around the time of the Tokyo Motorshow and that will have the new mild Hybrid system instead of S-ene charge. So to answer your question...the Wagon R and the Spacia are both mild hybrids. Its just that the system in the Wagon R is supposedly more efficient as the thresholds on how and when it assists the engine and how much it can run in a "EV"ish mode has changed. As for which car you should be buying...only you can answer that. The Spacia is roomier than the Wagon R, so a bit more comfortable and convenient. Personally I find the seats of the Spacia a lot more comfortable. Also, the Spacia is a bit heavier than the Wagon R so its a bit more smoother on the road. However, the extra weight and the tall body has its down sides. Being heavier it might be a bit sluggish when under load and being tall you might have some body roll which would make it a bit less zippier than the Wagon R. Still...considering family comfort and all other things being equal, I personally would go for the Spacia.
  37. 1 point
    i once owned a fit gp1. its a simple car dont have many computer stuff going around. simple hybrid. but i recommend the aqua because to me its gives the modern feeling and with all the lights coming up + gives great kmpl better than a honda for sure. these cars are small and can go fast like a v6 engine so be careful when driving <3
  38. 1 point
    And its fun to ride
  39. 1 point
    Well the biggest concern buying a hybrid should be the battery health and cost to replace it. Get the battery health checked and see how much it would cost you to replace the required cells over your usage period. Check how much you save monthly on fuel vs a conventional car and see if that saving is more than the cost to replace better cells at the end of your ownership. If you are not doing high miles in most cases it won't make much financial sense. Also there are loads of abused Uber and PickMe priuses, so be mindfully of how the car was used previously.
  40. 1 point
    This will save you next time. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-LCD-Cigarette-Lighter-Voltage-Panel-Meter-Monitor-Car-Volt-Voltmeter-y0-/391859469028?hash=item5b3ca4fae4:g:--MAAOSwDNdVozAi&vxp=mtr For the same reason but not for an Aqua, I made this for me.
  41. 1 point
    Well after 47500kms from zero mileage point and over three years from the manufacturing date I decided it was time for a transmission fluid change. Bought a 4L can of Toyota ATF WS and with a 10mm Allen key and a funnel attached to a 5/16 clear hose of 1m length in hand set about changing ATF. First unscrewed the filler plug so that just in case I failed to do it I could still drive the car. Keeping the filler plug hand tightened to prevent fluid from gushing out, unscrewed the drain plug and drained all fluid. Although fluid was slightly dark in color to me it looked like it could have run for another 10000kms atleast. Dropped the clear tube behind the engine to reach the filler hole keeping the funnel close to inverter coolant tank and began to fill after fixing the drain plug. In fact the filler hole can accomodate a bigger tube but you need some clearance for the air to vent out as you go on filling. It took little more than 3.5L before fluid began to overflow. I was doing it alone so I spilled quite a lot of fluid. Fixed the filler plug back and I was on my way again. I know I should have taken some pics but it is not that easy to handle a camera or a phone after you get ATF on your hands.
  42. 1 point
    Patiently waiting until he mention the words "sedan", "sporty looking" etc.
  43. 1 point
    How much a good looking corpse of you and your children/family you ant to keep behind?
  44. 1 point
    Recently one of my dad's friends moved from 121 to axio hybrid.according to the car's calculation,best mileage is 17.3kmpl.and he is using it for abt nearly 8 months.what i see in him after moving to a hybrid is that he is proud of owning a car that bears the emblem 'hybrid' and he never let me drive it.IMO i think 90% out of hybrid users have moved to a hybrid for the trend.the word 'hybrid' has now become a fashion like,'arpico hybrid wathura tankiya'.people who cannot afford a hybrid car can be satisfied by buying a water tank labelled hybrid.
  45. 1 point
    Had to take a double take on what you said and I realized you must be the ONLY practical hybrid user I have ever seen. People in LKA DO NOT Take total cost of ownership in to account when they get in to debt to buy car that saves a few rupees at the pump. BTW, can you elaborate on the cost of inverters and what not? @VVTI The Inverter pump replacement at T.L Wattala cost Rs 50000 for the part and the labor. Got a discount on both the part and the labor and yet it came to that much. Did a tune up at KAS in Kandy and had to change the plugs, the fuel filter and the air cleaner which came upto again 45000+. Think one plug cost around 8500 or so from the agents. Then it had an issue with the left side break cylinder. Whenever I pushed the break it made a terrible cringing noise. Eventually had to replace the break cylinder and that part alone was not available. So ended up buying the whole set second hand (the disks, the abs sensor, break pads, the razor etc etc) which cost me 17000 and another 2500 for fixing. Changed the gear oil twice and Toyota WS oil was 12000 and had to change the coolant and it cost 8500. And ya, the drivers side auto retract mirror suddenly stopped working and TL quoted 75000 and second hand its around 25000 in Kandy. Didnt replace that yet. And then then had a problem with the key fob. Somehow or the other it had got damaged and came apart. Called TL and yet again the price was 35000 for the key and re-programming it. But the guy who takes care of the car managed to get it fixed. So didnt order that as well. The price for the battery at TL is 700000 and a second hand chinese crap one is around 200000. TL said they will repair damaged cells if the damage is not so bad and its around 8500 or so for one cell I guess. (might have changed. I got this price sometime back just out of curiosity). My mechanic told me that a single CV joint is over 100000 at TL. Im not so sure cause I never verified it from TL itself. Thats about all I did on the car. And I didnt add the amounts they quote when they "scan" the vehicle before doing any kind of repair. And I forgot to add the bloody insurance premium they quote. Ended up paying 45000 this time around and last year it was more. Since its a hybrid they have a different system of calculating costs it seems. And well I bought the car for 36/50. I was willing to let it go for 28.50. Even though people quote 30+ even now for the second gen, I almost sold it for 28.50 but had to keep it till I moved to kandy. I really dont believe in making a profit out of it.I seriously get irritated when people say ooooh and ahhh u lost that much on that car. Dunno how anyone can make a profit out of cars. Whatever it is, it kept me on the move, never broke down on those long drives and I somehow managed to maintain it But seriously, it doesnt offer you that driving pleasure. We still have the terios and its 8 years old with 120000kms on it. But it was not that costly as the prius and it will give you a decent 12+ or 10 but less insurance premium along with less repair costs.
  46. 1 point
    Been using a prius second gen for two years and it has 109000 on the clock now. I was working at Matara so used to travel every week from kandy to matara and back. Generally it comes to around 600kms and if not 530kms per week. Used a daihatsu terios and a suzuki swift (beetle model) prior to the prius and it cost me around Rs.9000 to Rs.7500 per trip on those. After I got the prius the cost went down to 5500 to 5000. Generally it does around 20-22. On the way down to matara, till kaduwela (cause its almost downhill from Kandy till Yakkala), it does around 23-24 and once you reach matara, it will go down to 22 or so. On the way to kandy, it will not do more than 20-22. Generally, I push it hard when driving back to kandy cause saving fuel is the last thing on my mind. Takes a hell lot of time if not. But with all that rough driving it does around 20 which is not bad. Well, to be honest, its not that economical to run. Even though in the short run it saved up around 2500 per trip since it was a high mile runner, certain repairs also came along and they were costly. Didnt have any issues with the battery, but had to replace the inverter water pump from toyota which cost a pretty penny. Other than that, regular servicing, gear oil changes, coolant changes along with the these so called "tune ups" were somewhat costly. But to be honest, other than the water pump issue, the car never gave me trouble and still runs fine. But I moved back to kandy and my daily commute is from kandy to peradeniya where it does 18.9 to 19.2 or so. Now ofcourse the cost of keeping it is useless. Seen some hybrid owners claim seriously silly mileage figures and talk about it being very economical. Thats all a load of crap. It saves in the short run (and that too only a couple of thousand) but when the repairs do come its costly.
  47. 1 point
    With the influx of new cars to the Sri Lankan roads, many new road users are joining the fray daily. Most of them are new to their cars and most of them are still newer to driving. So I want to start a thread to discuss about what we know about the most common road rules, courtesies we have to afford other drivers and hopefully reduce the amount of idiotic driving habits we see every day on our roads. Some mistakes and some tips. 1. Not giving right of way. Right is Might according to SL traffic law. No matter how mcuh you will try to weasel your way out of a crash, if you did not give right of way, you are WRONG! 2. Not keeping junction boxes clear. (For instance, Near Apollo Car park entrance, ITS A HOSPITAL PEOPLE! IT COULD BE YOU WHO ARE INJURED NEEDING MEDICAL ATTENTION STUCK IN A CAR BECAUSE SOME IDIOT IN A BRAND NEW PERMIT MARUTI DOES NOT KNOW THE JUNCTION BOX RULE. KEEP IT CLEAR AT ALL TIMES). 3. In the night, use the High Beam only if the road ahead is clear of all on coming traffic. Do not follow another car with your High Beams on. Its a Common Courtesy. Before many of you decide to put on HIDs, learn how to use the headlights you have first. 4. Always follow the 5 second rule when indicating. Indicate your signals a minimum of 5 seconds before turning. 5. Try not to overtake on a single unbroken line. Getting copped is a bad idea and worse is if you cause an accident. You will be charged and the fines are really high. Same goes to zebra crossings. 6. Use a hands free at all times. That call is NOT WORTH IT, if you cause an accident while on the phone. ( I broke both legs of a 3 wheel driver, because I looked down to see who is calling and the taxi ahead stopped. Taxi was condemned and I paid 100,000 in compensation + court charges and fines and a suspension for 2 months. Like I said, ITS NOT WORTH IT). 7. Colombo roads are not race tracks, they are busy, congested and unpredictable. Drive with your wits about you. You wanna race, lets meet up regularly at the usual closed race circuits and race your hearts out with relative safety. 8. Always follow the 3 second rule when following another car. "To determine the right following distance, first select a fixed object on the road ahead such as a sign or tree. When the vehicle ahead of you passes the object, slowly count "one one thousand, two one thousand, three one thousand." If you reach the object before completing the count, you're following too closely. Making sure there are three seconds between you and the car ahead gives you time and distance to respond to problems in the lane ahead of you.". 9. Your life, the lives of your family/friends in the car and the lives of strangers with families and loved ones are in your hands when you take the wheel. Always be cautious and be courteous. 10. Discourage your wives, mothers and others to carry babies in the front seats. Buy a car seat. I am sure your baby's life is worth more than a few thousand rupees. Forget what your elders say about, 'nothing will happen'. When it does, it will be too late. A baby will not survive a trip through the windscreen or hitting the head on the dash board or even a deployed Air Bag. (Air Bags deploy within 0.04 seconds, a force enough to kill a baby) Thats all I can think of... others are quite welcome to comment.
  48. 1 point
    Crosswind, It is my opinion. Please note opinion differs from Person to Pierson. What is good for me, can be bad for a another person. Even Japanese vehicles were not that high quality during 1960s. Indian and Chinese vehicles had improved lot during the last five years. I use INDIAN Maruti Omni very cheap vehicle for my daily running. 25 months, 22500 Kilometers on the odometer without any problems. Family long trips use a Rexton 5 years 50000 Kilometers on the odometer. Also satisfied with performance no major problems. Almost all long distance (Colombo Jaffna) buses in S L use Chinese new buses. There are few Chinese running on the Southern high way also. Sylvi Wijesinghe.
  49. 1 point
    300km?? that's work + weekend drive and all ? if that's only for work, it's arnd 6-7km one way to work. honestly, I suggest you put that money in a FD and use the services of a premium cab. Even then you can save money, and all the annoyance that comes when driving to work during peak hours.
  50. 1 point
    The Alto Sport sports a V8 producing 400 bhp and does 35kmpl. 0-100 in 4 secs. 100-0 in 2 minutes. Crazy value if you ask me.
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