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  2. matroska

    How rational the Carbon Taxes are ?

    yet another stop-gap measure in 70 years of mindless policy making. I know this is a dumb move on the govt.s part and just another excuse to fill their own coffers to coverup for their previous looting/ future looting plans BUT aren't we complaining about an increase you have to pay annually that amounts to less than a single full tank of fuel ?
  3. tbird

    Honda Gp1 hybrid.

    Please go through the above threads, this issue is not available in all GP1s, there are range of VIN numbers with this issue and later this was fixed by Honda. I remember this detail is in one of above threads. If you are looking for a GP1, get the VIN no (Chassis no) and check whether it is within the range.
  4. Today
  5. tilvin

    Tyre Size 175/80 R14

    Any help?
  6. what was the cost to do this?
  7. Lannister

    Need a solution for vibration when idle

    Hey, @PerfMad Thanx for being alive on the post. Yet it stays like so, Rumesh said to clean the PCV valve & yet I couldn't do it. Checked again with a Mechanic & calibrated ECU. Now it relieved a little & I'm sure that won't be a permanent solution. & the mechanic said to check the engine & gear box mount. Now I'm on to that.
  8. matroska

    Honda Gp1 hybrid.

    Please go through the threads linked above. It's quite comprehensively documented.
  9. Hyaenidae

    Any experience with colonial motors

    Wish guys at the workshop where I get my car maintained read the AL forum... But anyway, most of the time an oil burning engine can be overhauled to perfection - if Maz*a Motors didn't give you a plausible explanation for why the engine cannot be fixed, you might want to take a second opinion from someplace else. Here's a thread you might find useful:
  10. LashNeo

    Any experience with colonial motors

    That’s a good decision. Trust me, I’ve been a customer of Mazna for more than a decade now and I’ve been personally promoting their service since they surely do provide a good service. However; business is business. You need to be a bit vigilant when it comes to dealing with local businessman. I know that they brought down a load of used (but good quality) Mazda parts recently and they must be looking to push them to the customers as quickly as possible coz maintaining an inventory is a cost for any company. So, cannot blame them on that. At the end of the day your problem will be solved but you will be paying something extra. Actually; you can do few things yourself to see whether there’s actual oil burn. Do you notice things such as blue smoke from the exhaust? Oily spark plugs? Rough running engine? Etc. If not; better to fix the oil leaks first and then run the car for some time to see whether the oil level actually drops after the leaks are fixed. Furthermore; what was the condition of oil when you bought the car? Was it clear? Do you have any maintenance records from the previous owner? If the car was maintained properly for sometime, it’s somewhat hard believe that a sudden oil burning issue would occur. Maybe I’m wrong here and Mazna people have done a correct diagnosis. But, it’s your car and your money. So better to be open minded, I guess. Some of the guys at Mazna might be actually reading this post and they know me very well. But, what the heck I’m just being true to myself.
  11. mazdaspeed

    Any experience with colonial motors

    @ Chathuai - sent u a PM
  12. MrCat

    BMW E30 enthusiasts?

    So, the car was running fine with NO excess smoke, cold start issues, timing chain noises etc.. However, I always felt that the idle wasn’t spot-on. I decided to address the famous ‘mess under the intake’. This is what the E30 community had named the German over-engineering effort under the intake manifold on the M42 engine. They decided to go nuts with coolant lines and vacuum hoses and added a throttle body heater which is completely useless in warm weather. This basically involved: ** Remove coolant lines which goes to throttle body heater plate ** Remove excess vacuum lines and add a couple of direct connections. 1.) Valve cover to throttle body. 2.) ICV to intake boot ** Add new coolant bypass from cylinder head to the plastic coolant distributing thingy on the side of the block ** Replace two short fuel lines under the intakes, the high pressure line was leaking a bit ** Replace all the gaskets and vacuum lines ** Clean everything (ICV, TB, manifolds, plastic bits, connectors, etc...) Parts list below, ordered from the local dealer: · Intake boot >> 13711734385 · Hose clamp (L12-15), fuel line >> 07129952104 (4 of these) · Vacuum hose from FPR (3.5X1.8) >> 11727545323 · Gasket – throttle housing >> 13541743261 · Hex nut with plate - throttle housing >> 07129900681 / 07129904553 (4 of these) · Air hose (to ICV) >> 13411721971 · Gasket – upper intake manifold >> 11611717761 · Gasket – lower intake manifold >> 11611734684 · Hex nut with plate (AM7 ZNNIV SI) >> 07129905541 (8 of these) · Coolant Hose (this is from E36 M42, used for coolant by-pass) >> 11531247398 Some of the parts: Lower intake manifold removed: The ‘”mess under the intake”: Unfortunately I forgot to take any pictures while putting things back together. With new hoses and gaskets, the car idles perfectly now. Perhaps it’s all in my head, but feels like throttle response is sharper.!!
  13. Insedious

    Good dash cam for the Car

    Here are some points I considered when selecting a dashcam Super capacitor powered instead of Lithium Polymer (Must have. The heat always managed to destroy the battery between 6 months and 2 years) High endurance Micro SD card (Must have: After one year, the FAT was always broken and the HE ones are going strong 1.5 years later) Proper WDR supporting chipset (Must have. Our addiction to fog lights and high beams will make the picture white out if the chipset is a cheap one) On board Wifi ( Nice to have. Saves time when you want to download files) On board GPS ( Nice to have. But keep in mind the time stamped Speed might have a delay so in an event the video is used as evidence, it might work against you) Parking Monitor mode ( Nice to have. However, this works best if you have 2 cameras as there's no point the front camera recording evidence when some fools decides to fornicate with your rear bumper) Dual camera (Nice to have. For obvious reason but a b*itch to wire up) Installation mode ( Personal preference: I prefer the windshield mounted inconspicuous ones over the standard hang with the Suction cup version simply because the camera can't move around and it doesn't restrict your view.) Power cable (Nice to have : I prefer the cables which double as a USB cable so it's easy to plug it directly to the laptop over the standard 12v to 5 cigarette lighter adapter that comes with the dashcam. This feature completely eliminates your need to take the card out, provided the cable is not *power* only cable and the dashcam supports the same. (Edit) Video Quality degradation due to Tint : (Point to consider. Event the 30% 3M tint has a considerable impact on the night time video quality and seem to confuse the WDR chip as well, so it's a hit you have to take if your windshield is tinted) Having said all that, the flavour of the month in my view is Roav from Anker. I've been using a dashcam from them with 2K resolution and GPS and wifi and I'm pleasantly impressed with the total package. Sadly it has the evil LiPo battery but I seriously wanted give it a try as I've only had positive experience with Anker stuff (personal experience only, others are bound to have different opinions on the same). If anyone wants to see, I will upload some videos of day and night driving on this puppy.
  14. asanka_rg

    Honda Gp1 hybrid.

    This mean each and every Gp1 need to be undergone with this sludge removal? Even the not affected chassis no range?
  15. asanka_rg

    Honda Gp1 hybrid.

    OK guys thanks for sharing the experience. I'll sleep on it.
  16. MNI

    Honda Gp1 hybrid.

    What are the symptoms of this oil leaking/slidging issue
  17. Yesterday
  18. 20-22 or 20-28 ? if you are looking for car around 20-22 i think bj5p is nicest car you can buy around that money . remember known evil is better than unknown god around 22-28 : 2004 mazda 3/Axela , 2010 low milage demio , Suzuki swift 2009, Hustler , Kia picanto 2015 ,
  19. chathurai

    Corolla121 or ES5/8 or Mazda 3 or GP1

    lol i taught im the only one who face this issue .. ill try my best to do tinkering job rather than doing welding job 😐 .
  20. Sorry to bump up old thread again, but I think this issue might exists for both Suzuki Swift 2017 and 2018 models (RS, ML hybrid and non hybrid). As mentioned above in this thread I got this issue resolved at A*W (I got this ratlling noice in lower speeds (below 20 kmh) drive at small ditched road such as concrete roads.) repair center, what they had done is replace the grease inside the rack since existing one is not suitable (Melting) for SL temperature and they do recalibrate the stearing rack. It cost me below 10k with wheel alignment. I got this issue when vehicle @ 1500 km and had done the repair on 8200 Km so far I have driven more than 3000Km and issue is not came up again.
  21. chathurai

    Any experience with colonial motors

    Yes i talked to few of my friends and all of them told me same . i also feel this can fix without engine rebuild or replace. and finally came to conclution to take it to some other place and get second opinion. tomorrow i'm going to show my car and will update you guys .
  22. tilvin

    Tyre Size 175/80 R14

    What about buying, https://greasemonkey.lk/product/maxxis-lt-series-175-r14-un-999/ Is this different from 175/70 R14? Will this suit?
  23. varotone

    Project A72V

    My tinkerer-cum-painter is a slow coach. The body is still untouched. So by the time he eventually finishes the bodywork, I will have plenty of time to rebuild the engine. I'm gradually dissembling the engine and came across this Orion sticker on the valve cover under layers of gunk. I'm assuming this is an original sticker. It survived all these years Hopefully, I will be able to finish the disassembly and start washing the parts with kerosine/petrol over the weekend. HELP NEEDED I can't see a timing mark (notch) in the crank pulley. How to proceed with the disassembly?
  24. lasiyamini

    Mini cooper

    Thks for the elaborative feed back Any way about pros and cons of 1000 cc & 1300cc if u don't mind along with anything more on EFI and fuel injection systems and what's best on it ... Sent from my Redmi Note 6 Pro using AutoLanka.com mobile app powered by Tapatalk
  25. tilvin

    Tyre Size 175/80 R14

    My Wingroad Y12 originally came with 175/70 R14. Sometimes it hits ground when going up / down slopes. I am planning to put a new tyre set with little more height. Will 175/80 R14 ok? Searched so many places. But could not be able to find. Can you guys help?
  26. Jason_Bourne

    Good dash cam for the Car

    It can withstand heat and function. But the issue is long term reliability. Li-Ion batteries arch enemy is 'HEAT'. So after one + years of parking in hot sun, the battery degrades and gets swollen messing up an otherwise completely perfect product. Capacitive Dash Cams are highly durable when compared to Li-ion battery based products.
  27. vanquish.7

    Good Tyre Brand....!

    Any recommendations for a set of 245/45 R17 95Y tyres? Preference is currently on a set of Michellin's but recommended places to get them and all insights are welcome.
  28. chathurai

    Mazda BJ5p - vvt engine - RS

    can you recommend some place to buy gearbox for my bj5w
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