eat. sleep. jdm.
that about sums up my obsession over the last 3 months or so. what first started out as a casual remark by Charith Kulasiri, gradually became malignant. "you know, what if you did a type R conversion on this?"
Ever since I got hold of the GSR teg, this idea has been clawing its way around my brain. Finally, I set about doing it, but to do what must be done to its finest detail is no easy task. My end goal, is to have a 4 door integra db8 type-R in concourse condition. i'll break it down systemwise as i proceed.
my apologies for keeping this away from the AL forums for as long as i have, and i must say this is a conversation i wish to share and enjoy with like minded petrolheads. not the prii driving thel hinganno whose first queries are "wow how much did that cost?" or "now how much petrol does it do?" if you are the latter, read on in awe about how real tuners pump out over 200 HP from an engine the size of a mega bottle. or just go hug a panda.
firstly, here's the base car: before i bought it. a GSR spec 1998 mint Honda Integra DB8.
so i riced it up. forgive me. we all have our moments. at least, after a snide remark from schiffer, i saw this was not the way to go.
here it is after i did the interior and exterior.
now, the fun part. over the next few months or so i'll post what i've been up to with the:
3. ECU and tuning
7. exterior detailing
8. interior detailing
i will summarise what the Teg has been through from 2014 to 2018, in the next few blog posts.
The car went through 3 additional rebuilds since the first before things start working aright. indika was not the man to have done this with, as he had no experience with B series hondas, and my vision was lost on him. i was severely restricted by the budget of my dreams so i couldn't afford any better. having said that, i have spent 3 times more doing cheap repairs 4 times over than i have spent doing it right, once, with sabry at PAS.
the reason my Brian Crower cams were not producing power was that i had not raised the compression adequately in my cylinders. as i was unaware of this, i was running stock compression, which was 10.8:1, which is the lowest compression honda designed for the B series: the GS-R auto. the BC website quite bluntly states that one has to have at least a CR of 12:1 for their cams to work. in this light i was experiencing something like "anti-VTEC" where the normal lobes created oodles of power and when the wild lobes are engaged the car bogs down due to compression and fuelling inadequacies.
on this discovery, and being at a bad place personally at the time, i gave up on the BC cams, thinking i have reached the end of my limits with the Teg and i will not be able to complete this. for the first time in my life, i compensated. i backed out. i sold the cams to Rumesh Rajakulendran, who was building his BabyMilo EK9 racecar, and reverted to my auto GSR cams. it was a very low point to have seen those cams go. worse yet, Ruma was thrashing every event he entered and winning by a country mile. he never forgot to acknowledge me and the cams.
to add to this, a few months beyond this incident, sabry and i were trying to tune it, and the engine broke. the bearings had given way. and so began...
1. the second rebuild
i have her this time to a local garage, Shafiq's, in attidiya. he had a lot of experience i was told with B series hondas, and he seemed to know what he was doing. shafiq then pulled everything apart to find out that one of my chambers is not in line with the others. this required an overbore to remove the discrepancy, and bigger pistons. at this juncture Ashan Silva was kind enough to gift me a set of P72 +25bore Civic Type R pistons, which i used in the rebuild. the bearing failure had also cut the crank, so i had to machine the crank as well.
sadly this rebuild lasted the 2000km break in time, and the bearings gave way again while i was on the highway to galle, and it was back to shafiq's for...
2. the third rebuild.
the bore was ok now, but the crank had got cut again, and i was given the choice of machining it yet again, and then limping around, as it would not last many trips to 9000+ rpm, or buy a new crank. a crank from honda was around 80,000, while an entire B20B non VTEC CRV engine in toto was 55,000. the choice was obvious. so we harvested the crank from that engine and did the third rebuild.
at this point i did some research and came to the conclusion that it was not a good idea to mix and match parts, such as take a b20 crank, pair it with b18 pistons and con rods, and then use a b18 head, as the measurements are all different. the garage thought naught of this and then went ahead.
and again, i did the 2000km break in, and was on the dyno tuning it with sabry. the second power run produced 189whp and 280Nm of torque. and then the bearings broke. the engine seized. and this it was time again for *-drum roll please-*
3. THE FOURTH REBUILD!!
i was out of money, out of patience, at my wits end. my dream had fallen apart. i cannot adequately communicate to you the dejection i felt when this broke for the third time. my heart just froze over and i was beyond emotion. this was it. Project R had come to its end. with a son on the way and a house planned to be built, i was drained. this was my strength, my love and my life and it has just broken down for what i thought was the last time.
i needed space. time. to think this through.
one thing was for sure, i was done giving the car to half baked garages. this needed a pro. i wanted this fixed. so i sent her to Platinum as i wanted Sabry to repair it. someday. he removed the engine and i brought the body home. where it went up on jack stands and stayed that way until i could either afford a rebuild, or i made up my mind to sell her for parts and keep the Book.
she stayed this way for 8 months.
during which time i removed the tyres, and stored them in my room, and every sunday i would head out, and wash her, clean the interior and apply siddhalepa on the rexin surfaces to keep away fungus. this was my ritual once a week for 8 months. until such time i could find the means to afford a rebuild, and sabry could bring the parts down.
the day finally did arrive, and boy did sabry pull out a corker. he had plans. big plans. he wanted to do right by me what numerous other people couldn't, and he made this his pet project. we decided to use the block from the b20 engine i had, as my b18 block was fried. and anyhow a b20 would have better lower end torque and thus be an easier daily driver. also my head was perfect. there was no signs of valve or spring wear and it was functioning normally. i had during this time installed a set of ITR camshafts also, and we thought we'd leave that just as it is.
so the B20 block was harvested and bored to 2100cc.
everything else was brand new. we ordered...
1. An Eagle crankshafft. aluminium. rated for 1500whp,
2. Wiseco pistons and connecting rods. custom made for my b20 block/b18autoGSR head, to produce a CR of 13.0:1.
3. a block guard was installed as the chambers of the b20 are larger, and thus weaker than the b18. the b20 had a redline of 7200rpm. we were pushing the 10,000 limiter again. so a block guard is necessary to prevent the chambers from warping.
4. ACL bearings
5. 510cc EVO 4 injectors, with impedance reset to match the requirement
6. AEM 320LPH high flow fuel pump, with a fuel pressure regulator.
sabry took about three weeks for the work, and she was out again in all her glory. she was built with massive tolerances, where, would i ever need to scratch that itch, a set of aftermarket cams or even boost upto 0.8 bar would be easily handled. she was built to last.
i do have to appreciate the effort Sabry put into this, as at one point he had made a mistake on the height of the connecting rods, and he sent them back to wiseco to get down the right ones wiseco refused to refund as the mistake was not theirs. sabry bought a new set for the right measurement out of his own pocket.
i've switched over to LiquiMOLY MOS2 10w-40 oil, and it has been smooth sailing so far. it is only now, that Project R has truly come alive.
finally. finally i did it. i put this car on the map. nothing like some silverware in the display case to prove a point!
not gonna say much. just this: 1st runner up, True Street Honda NA up to 2000cc.
i'll let the pictures speak for themselves. that moment i got randika at the launch. happiest quarter second of my life!
a few tweaks in the gearbox maybe for next time?
i've done a few updates for this race. installed the Exedy stage 1 clutch, TODA Spec C cams, tuned, and installed the Tegiwa Powerchamber intake, with a cold air partition as well. the partition was locally made by Platinum, and completely seals with the hood when closed, so that air is directed into it from under the car. there's no loss of power during daytime heat, as demonstrated!
also, i had some gremlins during the runs. first qualifier, my AC and alternator belts snapped. luckily i had a world class pit crew on hand, so they went to kalutara and brought back the belts from the only open spare parts shop "bimsara motors" (hence the hastily photoshopped "thanks to bimsara aiyya" sticker LOL). the platinum boys fixed it up on site.
next, with the first qualifier, my throttle cable snapped after i defeated the s2000. guess i was a little too ecstatic about victory. that was fixed with cable ties. the OEM honda type R throttle cable will reach @The Don in UK soon.
also the new clutch wasn't run in well enough, and i was missing second gear. was a nightmare. reverting back to the stock gear lever, instead of the skunk2 short shifter, as per advise from almost all the pro drivers. luckily found the ITR/CTR dual bend stock shifter also from the UK, and yes, Don's the man to bring that too.
all in all, it was the most fun i had my entire life, i was thrilled beyond words to have won anything! i built a racecar AND I WON!
Finally. At long last, the ITR sedan conversion is done!! Here she is in all her glory. More glam pics in the upcoming months!
Few niggles I’m trying to fix. The front end didn’t come with fender liners/mudguards. Sourced those from uk.
Also I was using a lengthened shifter linkage from an ek3 with a d series box. Apparently that’s why shifting into reverse and 2nd are difficult. Waiting on a proper ITR shifter linkage from the UK as well. Along with the stock dual bend shifter.
the interior underwent a few subtle changes during this period.
the black paint started to rub off of the original tan interior after a few years and this started bugging me quite a bit. added to this was the fact that the ITR coupe and sedan had doors which were lighter than the LS/GS/GSR trim doors. even the glasses were thinner to save weight. after much hunting, i managed to source an original black dashboard from a dismantled car in the UK, and had it shipped over.
the painted dash had a grainy lacklustre finish to it, which was rather irksome. i knew it was painted, and in my mind it looked painted.
the OEM black tho, looked just perfect when polished. also seen in the below photo is the interior trim of the ITR sedan door. i sourced the doors from a dismantled car in malaysia.
the center of attraction of course are the 3 52mm Defi Advance gauges mounted on the winsdscreen. these have quite a story behind them. original Defi gauges are rare and expensive. and the local market is flooded with so many knockoffs that i really didn't want a local supplier to get me a fake set. after much hunting i found these online on Yahoo Japan. they were off of an Evo7. the bidding ended at nearly 50,000 Yen, and the auction was set to end on a day i would be at the Motorshow representing LIMITLESS. not wanting to lose such a pristine set, i asked for help from our fellow autolankan, @Muditha420. i handed over my login details, and he religiously watched the auction and bid on my behalf, winning this in the last split second, outbidding over a dozen other bidders. i don't think even i would have had the fortitude to see this through! i am eternally grateful!
i've added these for good reason. firstly, the gauge on the extreme right shows the water temperature. optimal temp is 90C. the corresponds with the water temp gauge in the car. the middle gauge indicates oil temperature. this is a more important reading, as the oil takes longer to heat up, and the engine should not be overrevved until the oil is at optimum temp, in order to prevent bearing failure. as the water temp rises much faster, the car's temp gauge is NOT a reliable indicator of when you can trample it.
the gauge on the extreme left is the oil pressure gauge. this would indicate a drop in oil pressure in the case of an oil leak.
of course apart from all this the coolest thing about them is the Blood Horsepower level boost you get when you crank the ignition and see them do their diagnostic sweep. #andenawa!
apart from these i've also made use of the two dummy switch deletes on either side of the indicator stalks to install 45mm Proposrt gauges, indicating fuel pressure and stoichiometry. for some reason the stoich gauge never worked from day one. i suspect its not getting the right input parameters. i will fix it. eventually. its not really a concern for now.
both gauges are seen through the steering in this shot. left is fuel pressure and right is stoichiometry
i've gotten rid of the unsightly rubber bucket carpets and opted for the black nylon wool 3M custom cut mats. they look a whole lot classier. eventually hoping to source the OEM ITR sedan carpet set from japan.
last but not least, the piece-de-resistance: with great difficulty and much research, i found the OEM head unit that came as spec for the integra. sadly the Type R version is over 400$, and it only has faux carbon fiber printed on the surface, and "type r" written on it. this is off a non R, but its the same thing. only goes up to 90FM, but since im a fan of Lite and EFM, it matters not. quite a cool little device tho. i love the motorised sliding face!
apart from this i've also gone for a full tint on all glass surfaces with 3M's 90% clear UV tint. it cost a packet, but the tint itself is not visible and it works well to cut the radiant and UV heat from the sun. as this car has a large glass bubble due to the extreme rake of the rear windshield, the greenhouse effect is quite pronounced when parked in the sun for even a short while. the 3M tint really does deliver what it promises. i can leave this parked in the hot sun the whole day and the cabin is bearable when entered. also the AC cuts off so much faster and the cabin retains the cold for a lot longer. the gas mileage has improved by almost 2kmpl in traffic. i kid you not. comes highly recommended.
another interesting piece of kit i managed to source were the aluminium pedal set. this came as an option on the 2001 Type Rx, which was the last hurrah of the DC2, before it was discontinued. the Type Rx had dual airbags, a factory AC (AC was deleted in the first gen ITR's and later given as a factory option) dual power mirrors, plusher carpets, and the aluminium pedals. it was more a cosmetic upgrade. it also was the rarest of the integras! got hold of a pedal, and two pedal covers yahoo japan, and on they went. this was after seeing the Legacy B4 aluminium pedals on @Muditha420's car. mine were sadly nearly thrice as expensive as his :-/
this is the car up to now, and as with any project, its never ever over! i do have a few more plans. some of these are already in the pipeline, whilst others are mere pipe dreams.
after running the December 2017 drags, i was sorely tempted to splurge on more power. what's the point of having a car that was built to take it and then not give it the best tools with which to do so? sabry advised on TODA Spec C camshafts, which he insists have better power outputs than even Brian Crower or Skunk2. and thus, with a credit card crunching push of a fateful button, these arrived:
i also needed to work on the stock intake, as it was restrictive. the aluminium piping i had sounded very harsh, abck in 2013. but that was also at a time where the car wasnt' tuned. after much research, decided to go for a Tegiwa powerchamber kevlar intake. this is also known as the "whale penis" intake. for obvious reasons. my whale must clearly be oriental, as the intake is shortened due to the presence of the ABS distributor.
nothing major to change here. maybe an EDFC controller for the coilovers, so i can change the dampening settings on the fly from within the vehicle. if and when the GAB springs live out their useful life i will opt for a better softer coilvoer suspension, such as maybe Tein's new line.
the steering wheel needs a reupholstering after i quite judiciously once cleaned fungus off of it with undiluted dettol. the leather came off like the scabs of a sore. i still beat myself up for that. aparaade. this involves sending the wheel to the UK as none of the local upholsterers accepted the job. they can do it, but not back to OEM spec. so i first need to find a spare steering wheel.
i've also got my sights set on a set of OEM red EK9 recaro buckets. nothing wrong with the SSCUS ones, but hell there's nothing like recaro. someday, if i have the money and find the perfect set.
the biggest change to happen here is the JDM front end. the E-DB8 sedan was never made with the UKDM facelift front end. not off the factory. and this was what i sourced last from dubai as i got a good deal on a front end conversion, with a set of ITR headlamps (which have a black housing and plastic lenses, as opposed to the other trim DC2's which have a clear housing and glass lenses.) i also got the ITR lower lip in rubber imported via kapruka. took a huge risk with them 4 years after they lost my wilwood brakes. took three months but this time they delivered. phew!
the conversion is here but i cna't find the time or the money to do it yet. so i've shelved it for a later date. for the moment i'm still in love with the UKDM face and have no heart to rip it off.
i might also opt for an OEM spoiler if i find one.
beyond this i haven't really given it any thought. i have no plans of parting with this car, so who knows? maybe a turbo? big brake kit? supercharger? let's see where it goes. for the moment its singing its song, and i'm listening!
-B18C3 DOHC VTEC SIR-2
The b18c3 black-top is found in the 1996 JDM integra type R. and the JDM spec SiR-G sedan. Lots of rumours regarding the 3 in the C3. Some say its just an area code. As in made in Taiwan/Hong Kong. Others say it’s the closest Honda ever got to B18 nirvana. The head is from a B16 type R, and the individually numbered C3’s are rumored to have been ported and polished by Spoon Sports Japan. Factory specs are as follows, compared to the other two well known B18’s
Urban legends notwithstanding, this is one rare and much sought after motor in the west, and I suspect the spooning rumor has a big part to play in that! To me however, this means I don’t have to port and polish.
- brian crower stage 2 street performance camshafts
The stock camshafts are low lift, for more low end torque, and Honda R&D took great pains to make the shift to vtec as “seamless” as they would like. (why, oh god why??) basically designed for an automatic.
Crower stage 2 is high lift, and vtec engagement is much more pronounced, which, after all is what we want, yo! After much research decided on these over blox HSL’s and stage 1’s. Skunk2 was beyond budget.
to reach that elusive 10,000 rpm redline, its also necessary to upgrade the springs and retainers, piston sleeves and bearings.
Brian Crower Performance valve springs and retainers
its also necessary to upgrade the valvetrain if i’m to avoid the dangers of high RPM. inadequate valve springs and retainers can lead to broken springs, causing the valve to fall into the chamber, and that, would literally leave me in tears. Crower springs are stiffer to meet increased demand, and essentially protect the valvetrain. i opted for steel retainers over titanium as they are more durable and also, simply because i can’t bloody afford titanium!
naturally, a set of adjustable cam gears are also included.
1.350” @ 80lbs
Open 0.900” @ 220lbs
Coil bind: 0.765” Stock: 0.833”
Weight: 46g Stock: 48g
- ACL main and connecting rod bearings are also going in to ensure nothing pops at that redline.
the auto had to go. clearly. it broke down thrive in the last year, and gave me sufficient excuses to go get my self a third pedal. not just any third pedal, mind you. one from an EK9 type R.
B16A2 EK9 type R box with helical LSD
Gear ratios are as follows:
Type R pressure plate, clutch plate
- DC2 Type R flywheel
- Type R trans-axles
sourced the clutch pedal from an EK2. was a perfect fit. wasn't able to get hold of the other two for a complete conversion, so had to cut the brake. but a set of carbon fibre sparco pedal covers should cover that up neatly.
had a few small issues with the shifter linkage being a tad bit too short. thankfully indika is an expert at figuring this sort of thing out.
replaced the plugs with ngk iridium numbers. Also threw in an MSD blaster coil and ngk wires.
replaced the stock intake with a skunk2 pro manifold and an s90 70mm throttle body. Coupled to a short ram intake and a simota cone filter
The stock 4:2:1 header was replaced with a mugen DC2 type r 4:1 header. With thermal wrapping and 2" piping leading to a tanabe medallion muffler. As nippy as it might be, I want this car to he quiet, despite the power gains.
here's the box:
removed the auto. the flywheel screws had to be replaced. the MT ones are longer. its funny how every little thing int he tranny from this to the mounts have been reinforced to handle more torque. quite frightening in a very very nice
and here it is, bolted into place.
had to source the pedal(s) locally. couldn't find the A and B, so got the C off an EK2. it was a perfect fit. not a bolt out of place. its funny how this car was made for a manual but someone decided to stick an auto in there. every little part had its place, with the bolt holes deleted by rubber bushings.
and there it is, the cheeky little bugger!
have to unceremoniously cut the brake pedal, tho. so invested in some sparco carbon fiber pedals to cover up the evidence. got these directly from sparco italy. tough as nails, light as a feather. impressed!
INTAKE EXHAUST UPDATE
here's the intake manifold. a Skunk2 S2 pro 70mm. coupled with the s90 70mm throttle body
got a simota cone to fit. need to fabricate a housing like the stock box, so i can use the existing cold air piping leading out from under the car.
there's a Mugen DC2 4:1 header in there as well. its still in its wrapping. plus it has a thermal insulation which needs to be wrapped. will post pics of it once i'm done.
for the moment going with stock fuel rail and injectors. planning to keep the latter, but ordered this:
need to sort out the exhaust piping. plus get hold of that tanabe soon. getting it done as soon as the car is out.
this is one of the costliest and painstaking parts of the build. making a 15 year old car look like it rolled off the plant yesterday is no easy task and the interior is where the age shows the most.
firstly, here's the stock interior:
this is not off my car, but its the same tan interior.
here;s my goal:
so, the tan had to go. did a lot of research with my paint guy and sourced an epoxy interior paint with a heat and electrolyte (sweat) resistant primer from italy. redid in satin black.
getting the felt bits done in fabric.
threw in all the other little type R parts as well. including...
the momo type R DC2 steering. with an airbag of course. cost me packet for one in good shape, and after a buffing with shoe polish, it looks killer!
got hold of a type R DC2 gauge cluster as well.
and of course, the type R clock with the amber digits! details details...
and then there's the gear boot/knob. black rexin with the red herringbone stitch, OEM honda.
i might keep the seatbelts tan. its good to have a little reminder of what the car was. but the seats will definitely be replaced. the rear will be upholstered in black, while a pair of black recaros will replace the fronts. again, in time. recaros are harima ganang!!
you guys have already seen my adjustable camber upper arms from the previous thread. here they are again anyways:
what i'm adding now are the upper and lower control bars. front and rear. got a sweet deal from ultra racing for the entire kit. quite impressed with them, i must say.
the front and rear tower struts:
the front tower is a 3 pointer. i might not have room to mount it with the new intake manifold. if so, might have to do without it. its a fit for any EG8, so look me up if anyones' interested.
front and rear lower member braces:
the nxt thing, of course, are the coilovers. i need to lower the car. at least 1.5" front and 1" rear. i'm aiming for an Eibach multipro S2 setup oil shock coilovers with adjustable dampening and spring rates. this car is a daily driver and i can't give my self spondylosis at an early age!
for the moment, i'm installing some cheap ebay tin cans. they cost me next to nothing, but surprisingly amazon has some good reviews about them. ah well, only for 3 months...
the door panels are finally done. and looking more than just patta. i'm stunned. really!
and the rear:
and what impressed me most was the center console armrest. deen's threw this in for free. wow. just wow. tears in eyes, lump in throat:
here it is bolted on. waiting for indika to fix the interior to see how this looks.
used your car as a background, prvnrox. hope you don't mind
Looks like doomsday is Christmas for me. Arriving on Friday are:
1. The alloys
2. The cams
3. The valve springs and retainers
4. The MSD blaster kit
5. The ACL bearing kit
6. The Blox red Allan key lug nuts.
Will post photos once I've stopped having an orgasm over it
darwin racing 15" alloys. being cleared from port today. getting these either powder coated in white, or lquid gloss white finish. and white hub caps with the red H logo. jeevithe mal aiyya inna kal (for all the little decals and whatnots i print at anim8)
Removed the dashboard for paint today. I also got new AC vents since the existing ones were broken. There was a metric ton of rust behind the dash. Bloody hell. So that's official now I am never seeing this car again!
Will post before and after pics soon. Haiyyo.
Reverting back to my old lights. Getting it fixed, cleaned and fibered. There's nothing like understatement on the outside!
well here they are after a cleanup. the fronts are still messed up. too much age and grime to cut away. at least you can see what's inside the housing. earlier they were just opaque little orbs of mystery.
thinking of replacing them with a set of chrome eagle eyes from the US. the right size this time.
the rears, however, came out smashingly well. wow. looks like i just unpacked them!
here's a before shot:
and here's the afters:
also considered giving the front end to ajitha to get it completely redone. might be a better and cheaper option than getting a front end down...
Ok so Darwin racing effed up their shipment. My alloys haven't come through. Ascent holdings deserves a Darwin Award for that one!
Have to wait another month for the next shipment. If I get another "sorry sir" calls then that's absolutely it
before i proceed, here's a pre paint shot of the tan dashboard. it'll be done on boxing day. can't wait!
forgot to mention, i shipped in all 4 AC vents as well. they were broken, and bothering me, somehow.
santa came! ho ho ho, motherhuggers!!
MSD blaster coil ignition system
ACL performance bearings: main rod, connecting rod and thrust
BLOX anodized lug nuts.
adjustable cam gears:
saved the best for last: brian crower valve springs, retainers
brian crower stage 2 street performance camshafts!
sadly, these will sit idle for some time til i get the gearbox sorted out. once that's smooth, will start on the engine rebuild and engine bay respray
well, work is progressing, and the pace has picked up since the weeklong holidays are over. jeez...
rust! what you doin'?? rust! STAHP!! well, that's the only place this car has rusted. oddly. went through the rest of it with a fine toothed comb, and...nothing.
well it saved my a$$ tho, now the dashboard color change is a "necessary evil" in dad's little book of "my son is wasting his life and money"
this was taken apart, rust removed in two layers, put back and cataloyed in a day. impressive, considering the sloths employed here.
and here's a shot of the interior. falling into place. the glare makes it a little hazy, but that black somehow... just makes my ticker skip a beat!
and, finally, dat a$$! man, those lights! i should be hanged for crimes against the JDM
rear seat upholstery got pushed back a bit. because i ordered these little buggers. would rather go with well built replicas than splurge on spec recaros simply because i dunno what condition they'll be in til they i see them, and then its waaay too late for customer satis complaints.
well, if they're good enough for janaka rodrigo and his fire breathing dragon...
got two more little items yesterday. delayed shipment:
aluminium dual core radiator with a reserve tank. malaysian make.
and of course, what every b18c can't do without: a torque damper!
also handing in the rear seats today for upholstery.
more updates to follow. dad's customs agent is clearing the spec type R strut tower bar today.
and i'm handing the bumper over to ajitha (very gingerly) to fabricate a new one. lets see what the fiber-castell can spin up for me.
so here's the front after the tinkering was done:
and then that layer of NH-0. a teaser of things to come
also, handed in the rear seats to be reupholstered in black weave fabric, with red herringbone stitch. notwo tone nonsense. just plain black. here's the before shot. this, on monday, should look epic!
also, had a chat with indika regarding the front bumper. he says he can fix it to my specs, so i thought i'd let him. it'd be a damned sight cheaper and nothing comes close to the real thing, i guess...
a little more type R goodness. the front strut tower. taxed only 1250. could kiss mr customs man. lucky break.
and of course the power window master switch. the springs on mine were broken so found a replacement.
ooh ooh look what came today!!
its the little emblem that goes below the handbrake.
there are a few things that give me goosebumps. one such is that bar in its place. <3
also, the dash and other tidbits from the interior arrived today. looking mint. very happy with the finish.
its a sikkens nanotech epoxy paint (satin black) used for interiors. not available everywhere. my paint guy said he got in touch with sikkens distributors to inquire what was the best paint for the job, since this is not a regular do. said that this coat is electrolyte (sweat) and heat resistant, as in it wont fade off. but a sharp object can scratch it off, tho. and my garage mechs aren't the most careful of people...
so deen's is done with the rear seats. and my god they look amazing!
here's the before:
and here's the after:
the herringbone came out perfect. that's some sartorial skill...
now we wait. let's see how things progress.
so, since half the interior is out, i decided what the hey and went ahead with the color change. no point in putting it all back and taking it out again, noh?
also brought the floor carpet with me and the seatbelts to be coated black.
indika doesn't mince his words when he said "i'll make sure you can't even tell this was ever any shade other than white". wow. pretty thorough. yesterday his tinker dude was sitting there marking the lines of the car. he sees the dents that i never knew were there.
plus, i think they suspect i'm a little psycho. none of the other car owners come, sit, pat their cars and talk to it calling it "baby" and "honey" with false promises like "it wont hurt" "i miss you" "we'll be together soon" etc.
the looks i get, i tell you...
a few more goodies rolled in over the last few days:
thought i'd have a standby gearknob... spec ITR... brushed aluminium, 16oz.
and of course, another completely useless thing: mittens for the clutch and brake fluid reservoirs...
i'm back, motherhuggers! in the middle of exams so can't really go tickle the teg these days. but here's what's been happening so far:
got the floor carpet redone in black. can't have traces of tan to give it away now, can we?
also, got some other goodies. amber turn signals. going clean JDM on this. no smokey-the-bear bullsh*t
and of course the spec integra projector foglamps. nothing but the best for my little girl!
so, sat for my first exam in the masters program. 6 hours of mental rape later, thought i'd go by indikas' and hold a wheel for comfort. boy was i in for a treat. they just starting to spray the basecoat! i'll let the pictures do the talking:
the stock headlights smudged more than a van Gogh painting. so i asked our resident DIY-guru Davy for some help in restoring them. he didn't just help, rather took over the whole undertaking. and the end result... well...
Rice lights pair $150
Spec lights (same as above) $293
Shipping $300 courier, or $100 plus nawila waren at customs.
Hope that explains it
davy my man tell me where i can make a statue in your honour!
blown away. mind you this is after bara had a go at the lights...
Bought the alloys. Handed them over to Indika to spray gloss white. Got the white Center caps printed as well.
Progress is slow! Aargh!!
a little bit of history.
taken outside the mawanella police. when we went to rescue a certain zx in trouble...
since progress is slow, here's a shot of my new alloy caps.
an interesting eBay story:
was looking for the black seatbelts all over the place. since i changed the interior color. attempted spraying the existing ones. since that would win me that darwin award again, gave up the idea. then did some seatbelt research and found out that belts are not interchangeable with anything else as this car has dual airbags. the EG doesn't. so anyways, found what i was looking for on ebay:
sadly, only coupe. no 4 door sedan listings. out of curiosity, contacted the seller.
the seller, Steve from sportsnimports, went through the trouble of:
1. checking whether the 2 door and 4 door match
2. scouring through 25 integras in his yard to find black belts in good condition
3. pressure washed them and rubbed out the rust, olied them up etc etc
4. made a listing for me and put it up
... all for $50.
the closest quotation i got from our local boys for the seatbelt set of an EG ( i would have had to say good bye to pretensioning and then get killed by the airbag, mind you) was 18,500.
i wish our parts guys shared an iota of this guys' work ethic. very very impressed!
in other news, found the entire JDM decal set from the type R DC2 teg. OEM honda stickers. you know, the jap stuff that say 91octane unleaded in the fuel lid, and the color code and tyre pressure on the door, and the SRS thingey on the sun visor. waiting for a stressed out moment to place the order
was back at indika's today. he's done the little bits and bobs. here they are, after first coat:
going into the engine bay soon. had a chat about the build as well. looks like that's happening in one go as well. it is easier i guess, than parting with the car again for another month....
here's the goods that came down end of january:
amber turn signals. as i said, no smoke signals this time round...
some bling for the engine bay: a godspeed high flow fuel rail, capable of handling 1000cc injectors, and a build upto 1000HP. now that i would, of course. and it wouldn't be complete without a fuel pressure gauge!
a lucky strike after much searching for that elusive "perfomance silent exhaust system" that had me being laughed at by various petrolheads! an APEXi world sport 2 muffler. need to fabricate a piping for this once the rest is done:
also managed to chase down a can of VHT wrinkle red for the valce cover and calipers. hooray! thanks Chang!
there's more: sickspeed red washers to dress up the engine bay and quarterpanel mounts. would look nice on white
and then there's the red plug wires. you didn't really think i would NOT get red plug wires now, did you?
and finally, my crowning glory, the cherry on the cake: the two thrones: reclinable racing buckets from SSCUS malaysia:
in case you're wondering, i sat in them and was doing the imaginary lap. and i thought i was bad until lakmal came over, sat down and did the same with a little bit of double clutching too. even he can be excused... my wife came home, and had to take a spin as well!
so after a long pause, work begins again. the engine's out for the rebuild. so glad to see SOMETHING happening at indikas!
and the best yet i've got P72 pistons in there as is. which is a wonderful find. P72's have a slight hemispherical curvature on its surface, to allow for a compresison ratio of 10,8:1. another little JDM gem that japan decided to keep for themselves! looks like i can look away from the datto for a little while now!
so the engine respray went ahead. and no paint is complete without getting down to the nitty gritty, eh?
so first we cleared up all the wires, pipes, hosing etc etc to expose the bay, like this:
then we had a go at it, with brushes and kerosene spray. lots of gunk. good old majan.
and finally cleared up til the basecoat.
wasn't around for the spray. indika tells me its making him all emotional. should go and see. and try not to cry.
aah, the wait draws nearer to an end...
righto chaps, am off to give my liver and larynx a run for its money for the next two days. will update on monday. cheers!
and of course, go thora!!
go thora thamai. redda. anyhow, there's always next year...
now, back to the teg: a little progress over last week. the engine bay was painted, as was the inside of the firewall.
she is looking lovely!!
there's something about that white i tell you... even the baases are like wow...
indika had also had the engine mounts and brake servo sprayed. the little details. good.
they're now starting to piece it back together. bit by bit...
meanwhile, at my friends' workshop, the alloys were powder coated gloss white and baked! here they are! jizzing pants at the sight...
here's the before:
and the afters...
so suddenly a lot happens over 2 days. indika has laid out the engine bay, its waiting for the engine now. since he bought the repair kit yesterday i guess that wont take too long...
and the dash goes in! after so long! oh wow! *-giggles-*
and that meter cluster! 10,000RPM motherhuggers! woohoo!! i could have hugged the wiring guy...
the front end is done as well. dings and dents straightened, putty removed, bonded over, diffuser straightened, and coated. only the paint is left. my baby!
and he's cut the auto brake pedal so it fits. complete with pedal pad and all! the clutch is being sorted out...
inching closer day by day. sadly next week has two public holidays, and a long weekend. so i doubt much will happen. ah well. this one time its worth the wait!
next up we're installing the window paraphernalia and giving the doors another coat. then in goes the engine and then final coat of NH0
here's my engine guy Kelum working on the block. the bearings are in. he's bolting the flywheel to finish it off. next up, the piston chambers. that should be worked on today, methinks.
closer with each passing day. so today met up with kelum again. he had finished the block, and put the piston rings in with the cleaned pistons:
here's the before:
and this is the after:
and started working on the valve ports. so much gunk in there. unbeleivable. cleaned all of it out. bugger too his time doing this. nice to see some dedication!
and a few more pieces have gone into the engine bay. electricals mostly. fuse boxes et al. i guess you have to be as fanatical as i am to notice a little difference from last time
going to spend the whole of monday there. so lots more to update
Hello fellow autolankans..thought of getting a prado diesel..need to get to know about the vehicle more..my choice is 2014 KDJ150 with the 1KD engine..please share your thoughts and experience ,whats the diesel mileage since i want to choose between the petrol and diesel..thank you in advance