eat. sleep. jdm.
that about sums up my obsession over the last 3 months or so. what first started out as a casual remark by Charith Kulasiri, gradually became malignant. "you know, what if you did a type R conversion on this?"
Ever since I got hold of the GSR teg, this idea has been clawing its way around my brain. Finally, I set about doing it, but to do what must be done to its finest detail is no easy task. My end goal, is to have a 4 door integra db8 type-R in concourse condition. i'll break it down systemwise as i proceed.
my apologies for keeping this away from the AL forums for as long as i have, and i must say this is a conversation i wish to share and enjoy with like minded petrolheads. not the prii driving thel hinganno whose first queries are "wow how much did that cost?" or "now how much petrol does it do?" if you are the latter, read on in awe about how real tuners pump out over 200 HP from an engine the size of a mega bottle. or just go hug a panda.
firstly, here's the base car: before i bought it. a GSR spec 1998 mint Honda Integra DB8.
so i riced it up. forgive me. we all have our moments. at least, after a snide remark from schiffer, i saw this was not the way to go.
here it is after i did the interior and exterior.
now, the fun part. over the next few months or so i'll post what i've been up to with the:
3. ECU and tuning
7. exterior detailing
8. interior detailing
Custom ecu map by Zackie.
Perfect 900 idle. No lope even after a burn
Vtec engaged at 4400
Redline at 9000
And what a balanced tune it is. Loads more low rpm torque from 1500-3000. Car feels as nimble as a your wife's lover leaving through the window. Much lighter on her toes. And I thought it was my header that cut the power!
And she sings beyond the magic mark. Oh. My. God.
5am. Baseline road. 150 on [email protected] Shifted into 5th. And she settles down to a comfy cruise at around 4000. Every inch of her says just try it. I didn't have the courage.
I'm back on eBay looking for the next upgrade: bigger hairy balls version 2.0. mine are clearly OEM!!
was a little bored today so i stuck some decals on the teg. these were long overdue. had them lying aorund the house. some were too big for under the hood, so i need to resize them and print it out.
*-couldn't find original photo. this was from a much MUCH later photoshoot-*
next up, the tune. just marking time til i can get that done. will do a dyno run afterwards as well
with great difficulty i found this online. have been looking for the driver's side glove box. its not there on the LHD versions, so naturally not easy to come by. finally sourced it from UK. i wonder who in heaven's name nicked it in the first place, but it left a gaping hole in my dash...
this was where a lot of changes happened as well. nothing against ultra racing, but i did go into yoda levels of Zen with Type R lore whithin those 8 months of hibernation. in which i fell in love with the sleek aluminium struts made by honda itself. in his time i also found out that he Type R sedan had a production run of 1400 cars, all made for the japanese market. and within that, for the 1998-1999 model years, there was a very limited production of an OEM rear tower strut bar. it was the same as the front, with a specialized bracket. for some reason this option was discontinued in later models.
so one by one the Ultra Racing braces came off and were sold to capable hands. i replaced them with the clean and simple OEM aluminium from tower strut.
the rear tower strut was not so easy to come by. since i couldn't find one in japanese auctions, i then sourced another front tower strut and got a set of custom brackets from Tegiwa motorsports in japan. the only aftermarket company to make them. also in true Type R minimalistic style i stripped the boot of all the trim and gave it a few coats of spatter paint, for that on-a-diet look.
another little gem was the spare wheel. i had a 4x100PCD spare which mind you didn't clear my GSR calipers. anyways it was redundant with the 5x 114.4 setup so i went about hunting for a donut spare. lo and behold, its the same PCD as the nissan leaf, and since that doesn't come with a spare, suddenly 5 lug spares were the bees knees. everyone wanted one. had to bargain one down to 17,000 from 22,000 at JJ lanka, which was the cheapest i could find.
the rear also got some custom work done. i removed the Ultra racing rear member brace, and replaced that with:
1. aftermarket lightweight rear lower control arms
2. sickspeed rear member brace
3. Beaks rear lower tie bar.
mostly since it looks so badass for someone tailing me! just showing off... poddak
the coilovers remain the same, however. they're still good to do and i run the a few clicks north of the softest dampening settings. i have, over time, replaced all the bushings with polyurenthane, and now the camber and toe settings front and rear are perfect. she does creak, and she is stiff, especially the rear, since the trailing arm is now more or less stationary! but hey, id rather that that replace tyres every 6 months...
the interior underwent a few subtle changes during this period.
the black paint started to rub off of the original tan interior after a few years and this started bugging me quite a bit. added to this was the fact that the ITR coupe and sedan had doors which were lighter than the LS/GS/GSR trim doors. even the glasses were thinner to save weight. after much hunting, i managed to source an original black dashboard from a dismantled car in the UK, and had it shipped over.
the painted dash had a grainy lacklustre finish to it, which was rather irksome. i knew it was painted, and in my mind it looked painted.
the OEM black tho, looked just perfect when polished. also seen in the below photo is the interior trim of the ITR sedan door. i sourced the doors from a dismantled car in malaysia.
the center of attraction of course are the 3 52mm Defi Advance gauges mounted on the winsdscreen. these have quite a story behind them. original Defi gauges are rare and expensive. and the local market is flooded with so many knockoffs that i really didn't want a local supplier to get me a fake set. after much hunting i found these online on Yahoo Japan. they were off of an Evo7. the bidding ended at nearly 50,000 Yen, and the auction was set to end on a day i would be at the Motorshow representing LIMITLESS. not wanting to lose such a pristine set, i asked for help from our fellow autolankan, @Muditha420. i handed over my login details, and he religiously watched the auction and bid on my behalf, winning this in the last split second, outbidding over a dozen other bidders. i don't think even i would have had the fortitude to see this through! i am eternally grateful!
i've added these for good reason. firstly, the gauge on the extreme right shows the water temperature. optimal temp is 90C. the corresponds with the water temp gauge in the car. the middle gauge indicates oil temperature. this is a more important reading, as the oil takes longer to heat up, and the engine should not be overrevved until the oil is at optimum temp, in order to prevent bearing failure. as the water temp rises much faster, the car's temp gauge is NOT a reliable indicator of when you can trample it.
the gauge on the extreme left is the oil pressure gauge. this would indicate a drop in oil pressure in the case of an oil leak.
of course apart from all this the coolest thing about them is the Blood Horsepower level boost you get when you crank the ignition and see them do their diagnostic sweep. #andenawa!
apart from these i've also made use of the two dummy switch deletes on either side of the indicator stalks to install 45mm Proposrt gauges, indicating fuel pressure and stoichiometry. for some reason the stoich gauge never worked from day one. i suspect its not getting the right input parameters. i will fix it. eventually. its not really a concern for now.
both gauges are seen through the steering in this shot. left is fuel pressure and right is stoichiometry
i've gotten rid of the unsightly rubber bucket carpets and opted for the black nylon wool 3M custom cut mats. they look a whole lot classier. eventually hoping to source the OEM ITR sedan carpet set from japan.
last but not least, the piece-de-resistance: with great difficulty and much research, i found the OEM head unit that came as spec for the integra. sadly the Type R version is over 400$, and it only has faux carbon fiber printed on the surface, and "type r" written on it. this is off a non R, but its the same thing. only goes up to 90FM, but since im a fan of Lite and EFM, it matters not. quite a cool little device tho. i love the motorised sliding face!
apart from this i've also gone for a full tint on all glass surfaces with 3M's 90% clear UV tint. it cost a packet, but the tint itself is not visible and it works well to cut the radiant and UV heat from the sun. as this car has a large glass bubble due to the extreme rake of the rear windshield, the greenhouse effect is quite pronounced when parked in the sun for even a short while. the 3M tint really does deliver what it promises. i can leave this parked in the hot sun the whole day and the cabin is bearable when entered. also the AC cuts off so much faster and the cabin retains the cold for a lot longer. the gas mileage has improved by almost 2kmpl in traffic. i kid you not. comes highly recommended.
another interesting piece of kit i managed to source were the aluminium pedal set. this came as an option on the 2001 Type Rx, which was the last hurrah of the DC2, before it was discontinued. the Type Rx had dual airbags, a factory AC (AC was deleted in the first gen ITR's and later given as a factory option) dual power mirrors, plusher carpets, and the aluminium pedals. it was more a cosmetic upgrade. it also was the rarest of the integras! got hold of a pedal, and two pedal covers yahoo japan, and on they went. this was after seeing the Legacy B4 aluminium pedals on @Muditha420's car. mine were sadly nearly thrice as expensive as his :-/
possibly the only bit of the car that largely stayed the same during this period. the gearbox itself was left unfettered with. as the ratios were superb, and even the clutch was working well after runnin ghte december 2017 drags also.
what i have changed of course, is the shortshifter and knob. went for a Skunk2 dual bend short throw shifter, mated to a Skunk2 weighted aluminium knob. was a costly piece but my god the shift feel is velvet cheesecake. and with all bushings being polyurethane, its just the right tightness with zero play.
the dual bend is what's employed by honda in their factory manual GSR as well, albeit not being as short as this.
a few changes on the exterior were made. the most notable of which was the front fender. initially i was under the impression that the center grille and the bumper were two seperate pieces. they were not. its one large plastic mould.
and my front grille was unceremoniously removed by a previous bodywork specialist and replaced with chicken mesh, which i have documented removing very early on in 2013.
i had to make an impromptu crucifix grille in the meantime but i was NOT happy with the looks of that at all.
eventually, with great difficulty, i found a nearly mint front bumper and lip from a dismantled ITR coupe, and had it shipped over. my god, the difference...
^^ the lights too were new. imported from an ITR in the UK, and cleaned before fitting. they look mint. the car looks breathtaking in these streettuner pics.
the fogs had no place with the lip in situ, so they had to go. i didnt' remove the wiring or the switch on the handbrake console, as i had a feeling it'll come in handy someday.
the other major change was the spoiler. initially i very proudly had a replica of an ITR spoiler made of fiberglass and stuck it on:
but then, i grew up. and as you get older, understatement makes more sense. it was time to bury the boyracer in me, so i decided to remove the spoiler. it was also very heavy on the bootlid, and as it wasn't OEM and made of FRP, it began to bother me. i was all about having a car with more horses than the mounted police and less fiber than your morning meal, so the fake spoiler had to go.
it was replaced with a rubber lip, which to me is quite a subtle statement. i lau it !
a few other small changes were made. i removed all decals except for the ones on the door. and now, it was too cheesy and mainstream to call this a type R.
so this was removed.
and replaced with this:
not the clearest shot, but you get the idea.
no other major aesthetic changes were made, but some major plans are afoot. i will elaborate later.
the side mirrors were repaired as well, as one by one both retracting motors gave out. i bought two dual power civic mirrors and harvested the motors for the fix. they both fold perfectly now. tis these little things that turn me on.
The exhaust also underwent significant changes over the last few years. i did a few experiments with it over time and eventually came across what i believe to be the best solution, given the requirement for a little back pressure, and the stringent as well as arcane local muffler regulations enforced by the men in khaki.
i initially had an APEXi world sport 2 muffler mounted, and that went away when @Supra_Natural and i exchanged cars for a weekend and he was stopped by the cinnamon gardens police. i was given 48 hours to put a "beat ekak nethi" barrell ekak and come back.
so i borrowed a stock EK3 barrel for some time and actually enjoyed the peace and quiet. during this time, i sourced an OEM ITR muffler, the gediya of which looked identical to any other OEM honda muffler, but was factory built as a low restriction exhaust. it gave a sweet note on high revs but was still quite restrictive.
the cutaway schematic below shows the subtle changes within the ITR muffler which differentiates it from the GS-R muffler:
of course this was still too restrictive for me, so i decided to experiment a little, and being true to my Darwin award winning self, decided then that the catalyic convertor was the issue and...broke it. breaking the cat was a disastrous idea. yes the car revved up faster and i lost a bit of the restriction at low rpm, BUT, the sound. oh dear lawd the blood curdling caterwaul. it sounded like the dying moans of a hundred sodomized polecats. it was dreadful.
having swiftly learnt my lesson, i then replaced the cat with an EG-6 SiR cat from a race spec EG-6 exhaust. as it can be clearly seen its a lot less restrictive and smaller than mine. <-- this is the spec GS-R cat. above is the EG-6 SiR II cat
later on, after sabry's rebuild, on his recommendation, i let sacha fetter with the piping, and got a full catback custom 2.5" exhaust system done by WEPR. this was mated to the ITR muffler until i had the final piece of the puzzle in hand, which was...
the Mugen Twin Loop!
this was a lucky find. i was shipping some other parts from Dubai (which i'll get to in the FUTURE PLANS entry) and the shipment got delayed because the crate which was made was too small. it took another week to make another crate, and in that time, some poor chap in dubai met with a grisly accident which completely totalled his built civic. it was a front end collision, and the car was wrecked. my parts hoarder friend salvaged this from the wreckage threw it into the shipment the day before it left for colombo!
i installed it and it was the bomb. quiet on idle, screamer in VTEC and so smooth. nothing quite compared to it. the joy was short lived, sadly, as i noticed the innards slowly coming out of the muffler and blocking the tailpipe. this was causing a tinny sound and a severe exhaust flow restriction. at one point i just went at it with a tyre iron and removed whatever steel wool and debris that came out. of course afterwards it started sounding like a proper tin can. it was unbearable.
many exhaust places refused to even touch it. my garage in attidiya was kind enough to at least open it up, as one way or the other it was done. this is what it looked like:
the inner workings were completely destroyed. i don't understand the logic of a company like mugen who makes such a good exhaust out of mild steel. they charge a premium for it when you spec the car with it, but it will only last you 5-6 years.
this is what it should look like:
after many palaces still refused to repair it, i had to finally goad Sacha into taking on the challenge. he ended up replicating the entire muffler, and the only piece remaining which he used from the old one was the tip! his finished product:
it now functions perfectly, is an utter joy to listen to, and is made completely of stainless steel, with a lifetime WEPR warranty. as far as exhaust tech is concerned, the mic has been dropped.
i will upload a video of the exhaust note and variations when i get the chance.
i also sourced the original integra brochure, which documents the 4 door sedan, and the MUGEN Integra add-on leaflet, which clearly shows the 4:1 header and twin loop as optional extras which can be specced from the factory while ordering the car. i have shown this to the cops twice, and so far they have accepted that its OEM. both times i was pulled over while idling and it was not for the exuast note. just simple dickery.
i will summarise what the Teg has been through from 2014 to 2018, in the next few blog posts.
The car went through 3 additional rebuilds since the first before things start working aright. indika was not the man to have done this with, as he had no experience with B series hondas, and my vision was lost on him. i was severely restricted by the budget of my dreams so i couldn't afford any better. having said that, i have spent 3 times more doing cheap repairs 4 times over than i have spent doing it right, once, with sabry at PAS.
the reason my Brian Crower cams were not producing power was that i had not raised the compression adequately in my cylinders. as i was unaware of this, i was running stock compression, which was 10.8:1, which is the lowest compression honda designed for the B series: the GS-R auto. the BC website quite bluntly states that one has to have at least a CR of 12:1 for their cams to work. in this light i was experiencing something like "anti-VTEC" where the normal lobes created oodles of power and when the wild lobes are engaged the car bogs down due to compression and fuelling inadequacies.
on this discovery, and being at a bad place personally at the time, i gave up on the BC cams, thinking i have reached the end of my limits with the Teg and i will not be able to complete this. for the first time in my life, i compensated. i backed out. i sold the cams to Rumesh Rajakulendran, who was building his BabyMilo EK9 racecar, and reverted to my auto GSR cams. it was a very low point to have seen those cams go. worse yet, Ruma was thrashing every event he entered and winning by a country mile. he never forgot to acknowledge me and the cams.
to add to this, a few months beyond this incident, sabry and i were trying to tune it, and the engine broke. the bearings had given way. and so began...
1. the second rebuild
i have her this time to a local garage, Shafiq's, in attidiya. he had a lot of experience i was told with B series hondas, and he seemed to know what he was doing. shafiq then pulled everything apart to find out that one of my chambers is not in line with the others. this required an overbore to remove the discrepancy, and bigger pistons. at this juncture Ashan Silva was kind enough to gift me a set of P72 +25bore Civic Type R pistons, which i used in the rebuild. the bearing failure had also cut the crank, so i had to machine the crank as well.
sadly this rebuild lasted the 2000km break in time, and the bearings gave way again while i was on the highway to galle, and it was back to shafiq's for...
2. the third rebuild.
the bore was ok now, but the crank had got cut again, and i was given the choice of machining it yet again, and then limping around, as it would not last many trips to 9000+ rpm, or buy a new crank. a crank from honda was around 80,000, while an entire B20B non VTEC CRV engine in toto was 55,000. the choice was obvious. so we harvested the crank from that engine and did the third rebuild.
at this point i did some research and came to the conclusion that it was not a good idea to mix and match parts, such as take a b20 crank, pair it with b18 pistons and con rods, and then use a b18 head, as the measurements are all different. the garage thought naught of this and then went ahead.
and again, i did the 2000km break in, and was on the dyno tuning it with sabry. the second power run produced 189whp and 280Nm of torque. and then the bearings broke. the engine seized. and this it was time again for *-drum roll please-*
3. THE FOURTH REBUILD!!
i was out of money, out of patience, at my wits end. my dream had fallen apart. i cannot adequately communicate to you the dejection i felt when this broke for the third time. my heart just froze over and i was beyond emotion. this was it. Project R had come to its end. with a son on the way and a house planned to be built, i was drained. this was my strength, my love and my life and it has just broken down for what i thought was the last time.
i needed space. time. to think this through.
one thing was for sure, i was done giving the car to half baked garages. this needed a pro. i wanted this fixed. so i sent her to Platinum as i wanted Sabry to repair it. someday. he removed the engine and i brought the body home. where it went up on jack stands and stayed that way until i could either afford a rebuild, or i made up my mind to sell her for parts and keep the Book.
she stayed this way for 8 months.
during which time i removed the tyres, and stored them in my room, and every sunday i would head out, and wash her, clean the interior and apply siddhalepa on the rexin surfaces to keep away fungus. this was my ritual once a week for 8 months. until such time i could find the means to afford a rebuild, and sabry could bring the parts down.
the day finally did arrive, and boy did sabry pull out a corker. he had plans. big plans. he wanted to do right by me what numerous other people couldn't, and he made this his pet project. we decided to use the block from the b20 engine i had, as my b18 block was fried. and anyhow a b20 would have better lower end torque and thus be an easier daily driver. also my head was perfect. there was no signs of valve or spring wear and it was functioning normally. i had during this time installed a set of ITR camshafts also, and we thought we'd leave that just as it is.
so the B20 block was harvested and bored to 2100cc.
everything else was brand new. we ordered...
1. An Eagle crankshafft. aluminium. rated for 1500whp,
2. Wiseco pistons and connecting rods. custom made for my b20 block/b18autoGSR head, to produce a CR of 13.0:1.
3. a block guard was installed as the chambers of the b20 are larger, and thus weaker than the b18. the b20 had a redline of 7200rpm. we were pushing the 10,000 limiter again. so a block guard is necessary to prevent the chambers from warping.
4. ACL bearings
5. 510cc EVO 4 injectors, with impedance reset to match the requirement
6. AEM 320LPH high flow fuel pump, with a fuel pressure regulator.
sabry took about three weeks for the work, and she was out again in all her glory. she was built with massive tolerances, where, would i ever need to scratch that itch, a set of aftermarket cams or even boost upto 0.8 bar would be easily handled. she was built to last.
i do have to appreciate the effort Sabry put into this, as at one point he had made a mistake on the height of the connecting rods, and he sent them back to wiseco to get down the right ones wiseco refused to refund as the mistake was not theirs. sabry bought a new set for the right measurement out of his own pocket.
i've switched over to LiquiMOLY MOS2 10w-40 oil, and it has been smooth sailing so far. it is only now, that Project R has truly come alive.
a few upgrades happened along the way to the braking as well. firstly i replaced the master cylinder and pump with a brand new honda item, and flushed the whole system out for DOT4 brake oil.
the rotors were upgraded again, as i had opted for 114.4x5 PCD hubs and the OEM ITR alloys, both components hunted down from scrapyards in dubai. i put in a brand new set of cross drilled and slotted aftermarket rotors. the brake pads are EBC green stuff.
the front hubs, were replaced with the 5 lug ITR hubs. the caliper and rotor of which, i have read is the same as the one on the NSX.
the brake lines were replaced with steel-kevlar cross braided ones form Stop-tech.
this improved the brake bite and force phenomenally. the car would stop on a dime and the brakes almost felt like an on-off switch! if the acceleration doesn't wow you on this car, the braking sure will!
so kelum is back after being AWOL for 3 days. i was a bit upset, but then seeing this when i went today, couldn't voice a word of protest!
there goes the simota intake and piping. more on kelum, apparently his sister was a navy officer shot in trinco camp due to some mishap. its been an year so the daane bana etc. i heard about this from my friends at trinco hospital. she succumbed to her injuries there. small worls, sri lanka definitely is.
also mounted the engine mounts under the car, those were broken, so replaced.
the new radiator doesn't have screws for the auxiliary fan. need to fabricate those and stick it in
there it is! only the dizzie left to be mounted. the clutch reservoir has its own screws also. its like EVERYTHING in this car was made for a manual gearbox. uncanny!
more happening tomorrow. we'll be fabricating a bracket for the intake piping as well. ignition is not so far away now!
drawing that much nearer to completion. fixed the coil in place neatly with a bracket:
also bolted the intake pipe onto the engine. that mount took a better part of the day to fabricate. frustrating, yes, but i'd rather all this be done neatly, and with attention to detail. and this is one example of kelum's devotion to that very quality:
and then all the little hoses and vacuum lines were connected.
and that, gentlemen, is it! tomorrow we wire up the distributor, connect the accelerator cable, fill up the oils and water, fire her up and see what gives! after so long, the wait is over. clearly, i'm losing sleep over it! hooray!!
a day of days... i am completely, utterly blown away. moved, beyond words. its done. at long last. the mechanicals at least. and it is a work of art!
here's me trying out the shortshift. and what a shift it is! tighter than virgin p*ssy, creamy smooth, i've not felt a gear this good in a long while. aah!
and here's a clip taking her out of the space she's been in for the better part of the year.
and finally kelum eases off once outside:
it was my turn to drive it afterwards. i wish i could've filmed that. absolutely speechless. she moves. like a hare with its ass on fire. and i didn't even hit 4000 rpm. rib crunching, pant-wetting god-fearing power.
more work, ah the joy! got down and dirty today as well. connected the wire harness, which took most of the morning, and then plugged in the radiator hoses.
then proceeded to thermal wrap the exhaust. and had to fabricate a new mount, since the prop shaft got in the way. another hurdle of a manual convo...
and then in it went:
what an utterly rewarding day! exhausted, but so so content...
the header gave quite a fight yesterday. all the mounts were different because of the auto box, so had to cut and weld everything back into place. half a day was lost on that process.
so today the power steering pump and ac compressor went back on. along with the hydraulics and ac hoses
which means the engine is almost nearly finished. only the distributor and intake isleft to be installed.
broke open the dizzie to clean up. and have to read up on how to mount and wire the msd ignition kit.
that's for tomorrow. also, we thought of getting her off her perch and onto the rubber. so we're fixing the lowering springs now, and putting the driveshafts into place. sadly couldn't stay long with her today. had to pick wifey up from work at 2pm.
those struts just made my heart stop.
going into the 7th month now. today the mechanic has suddenly gone home. supposed to come back tomorrow...
at least she's off her perch, and back on her feet again.
see!! i told you guys there's a 4 door type R! its a very rare JDM only DC2 model. never made it out of japan. but it DOES EXIST!! props to chooty putha for finding this vid! wow... i was in ecstasy... and i want my car back!
so here's the strut tower bars in place. have to do a little messing around to get the aluminium bar in place. but we'll firgure something out. the double bars were a perfect fit for the stock strut tower. but i had to be the smartass and change that no... :S
aand finally, after long last they are prepping her for the last coat. so happy. only a few more weeks!
a little more each day. the gear lever was finally sorted, and the floorboards closed. the shortshifter was also installed, with a little lesson on physics.
paint prep work is also progressing alongside.
so that was a 1150km round trip, and the car was a blast. those hilly roads between pelmadulla and walawe, and then again between ratnapura and panadura were fantastic. grips the road like its on rails, and the rear comes in just perfectly. not a hint of understeer.
rough calculations give me 10kmpl. not bad, i guess!
meanwhile in batticaloa...
these two chaps were scouting the car and looking around, acting rather cheeky. then one of them "shape eke" leant against it while the other took some photos!
i really dunno where to start. to hear that engine kick up today... probably the happiest thing i'll hear next to the cries of my unborn son/daughter. and it idles PERFECT. there's no "gentle lope" or "rough idle" that so many people spoke about with the BC cams, saying that i won't be able to move the car a foot without an aftermarket ecu. you can see for yourself:
also, here's the finished engine bay, with the dizzie mounted, plug wires installed and wire cover in place.
also, pug306, you asked what the gauge was. its a fuel pressure gauge, here's a closeup. it does a little jig on ignition, which is hella cool, i'll try and record that soon.
now, onwards to finish the paint. and then the interior!
thanks guys! it is such a pleasure to see it all come into place. and cyclist, yes i did wonder that myself! but here are a list of things that need to go in there:
1. wiper washer fluid reservoir
2. type R aluminium strut tower bar
3. ultra racing 3 point tower strut
4. the battery
5. the grouding wire kit with the engine bay mounted voltmeter
6. the 4 ballasts for the two pairs of HID's.
so all that should hopefully fill the gaps. i remember the first painter saying that the engine was a "saagarayak". somehow saagare hindila wagey tikak, no?
but trust me man, at this moment in time i am simply overjoyed and beside myself. look how well she idles. and the noise... oh the noise! you guys should hear it in person. the hint of bass the whine of the intake. its pure automotive auditory orgasm! with the APEXi exhaust note it should be even sweeter...
so the engine respray went ahead. and no paint is complete without getting down to the nitty gritty, eh?
so first we cleared up all the wires, pipes, hosing etc etc to expose the bay, like this:
then we had a go at it, with brushes and kerosene spray. lots of gunk. good old majan.
and finally cleared up til the basecoat.
wasn't around for the spray. indika tells me its making him all emotional. should go and see. and try not to cry.
aah, the wait draws nearer to an end...
righto chaps, am off to give my liver and larynx a run for its money for the next two days. will update on monday. cheers!
and of course, go thora!!
go thora thamai. redda. anyhow, there's always next year...
now, back to the teg: a little progress over last week. the engine bay was painted, as was the inside of the firewall.
she is looking lovely!!
there's something about that white i tell you... even the baases are like wow...
indika had also had the engine mounts and brake servo sprayed. the little details. good.
they're now starting to piece it back together. bit by bit...
meanwhile, at my friends' workshop, the alloys were powder coated gloss white and baked! here they are! jizzing pants at the sight...
here's the before:
and the afters...
here's my engine guy Kelum working on the block. the bearings are in. he's bolting the flywheel to finish it off. next up, the piston chambers. that should be worked on today, methinks.
closer with each passing day. so today met up with kelum again. he had finished the block, and put the piston rings in with the cleaned pistons:
here's the before:
and this is the after:
and started working on the valve ports. so much gunk in there. unbeleivable. cleaned all of it out. bugger too his time doing this. nice to see some dedication!
and a few more pieces have gone into the engine bay. electricals mostly. fuse boxes et al. i guess you have to be as fanatical as i am to notice a little difference from last time
going to spend the whole of monday there. so lots more to update
finally. finally i did it. i put this car on the map. nothing like some silverware in the display case to prove a point!
not gonna say much. just this: 1st runner up, True Street Honda NA up to 2000cc.
i'll let the pictures speak for themselves. that moment i got randika at the launch. happiest quarter second of my life!
a few tweaks in the gearbox maybe for next time?
i've done a few updates for this race. installed the Exedy stage 1 clutch, TODA Spec C cams, tuned, and installed the Tegiwa Powerchamber intake, with a cold air partition as well. the partition was locally made by Platinum, and completely seals with the hood when closed, so that air is directed into it from under the car. there's no loss of power during daytime heat, as demonstrated!
also, i had some gremlins during the runs. first qualifier, my AC and alternator belts snapped. luckily i had a world class pit crew on hand, so they went to kalutara and brought back the belts from the only open spare parts shop "bimsara motors" (hence the hastily photoshopped "thanks to bimsara aiyya" sticker LOL). the platinum boys fixed it up on site.
next, with the first qualifier, my throttle cable snapped after i defeated the s2000. guess i was a little too ecstatic about victory. that was fixed with cable ties. the OEM honda type R throttle cable will reach @The Don in UK soon.
also the new clutch wasn't run in well enough, and i was missing second gear. was a nightmare. reverting back to the stock gear lever, instead of the skunk2 short shifter, as per advise from almost all the pro drivers. luckily found the ITR/CTR dual bend stock shifter also from the UK, and yes, Don's the man to bring that too.
all in all, it was the most fun i had my entire life, i was thrilled beyond words to have won anything! i built a racecar AND I WON!
so suddenly a lot happens over 2 days. indika has laid out the engine bay, its waiting for the engine now. since he bought the repair kit yesterday i guess that wont take too long...
and the dash goes in! after so long! oh wow! *-giggles-*
and that meter cluster! 10,000RPM motherhuggers! woohoo!! i could have hugged the wiring guy...
the front end is done as well. dings and dents straightened, putty removed, bonded over, diffuser straightened, and coated. only the paint is left. my baby!
and he's cut the auto brake pedal so it fits. complete with pedal pad and all! the clutch is being sorted out...
inching closer day by day. sadly next week has two public holidays, and a long weekend. so i doubt much will happen. ah well. this one time its worth the wait!
next up we're installing the window paraphernalia and giving the doors another coat. then in goes the engine and then final coat of NH0
here's the work that did happen yesterday:
all the rubber beadings are in:
as are the four power window mechanisms, greased and ready to go. he's put the wrong set of seatbelts. so those have to come out.
and the rear lights, lock are on as well. damn those look nice:
hopefully we can get mroe work done on wednesday
the silencer is mounted on two rubber bushes. we left it a little room to wobble. it settles down at higher rpm's.
and yes, i wanted to lose the mudflaps too. maybe at least cut the fronts so they don't scrape all the time.
the endless hours i put into this really did pay off. i just can't describe the feeling sitting behind that wheel!
the datsun, yes, is getting a spec as-close-as-i-can-get SSS conversion. again, full interior, exterior, the works. L16 motor, 5 speed box, discs all round etc etc more details on the datsun thread as work starts.
as for the ITR, my immediate concerns:
3. brake kit.
will update this thread as it happens.
met up with buggati and VVTi for a beer. took a few nice shots. will upload when i get 'em
a little activity i would like to blog on after a long time. this might help our newbie Sierra Charlie as well. here's the result of my negative camber on the front wheels. chewed through brand new tyres within an year. its gone down to the wire on the inner lip. i'm buying a new pair tomorrow.
this is not a result of me neglecting it, but of me not knowing what else to do after correcting the camber with adjustable upper arms on the front sus. learned later that you get adjustable upper arm mounting points, and got them down only this month: these give an added 3 degrees of camber either way.
to clarify, all this brouhaha is because i have an uncorrectable negative camber on the front passenger side wheel. even with full positive setting, there was -2.08 on that side. why only that side i cant figure out. maybe a previous accident. who knows? but as you can see it had its impact on the tyre. now tho, its all aligned perfectly.
to add to this, there was a toe out of the rear wheel. this too i didn't know there was adjustment for it. the gut at the alignment center suggested this, and i got down the adjustable toe arms as well. so now the rear alignment is spot on as well. finally.
on a separate note, i had some trouble with the AC, and as always, the culprit being our makabaases thinking "ooh this looks like it'll fit! let slap it on!". my compressor packed up, and when we looked into the matter, apparently i've been running a toyota compressor. now the interesting fact is that toyota engines crank one way, and honda the other way! so not quite sure how this managed to work this long even. bottom line is, we had no sample to get a new one from, and after much hunting and frustration, sourced a condenser and compressor off a b20b CRV engine. perfect fit.
to clarify my loving fan(s):
1. the camber kit, front and rear, (not available in SL) cost me 50$
2. recon IACV valve (OS at tech, 27,000) cost me $30
3. shipping for above $45, tax 1500
4. makabaas = NOT indika. not a repair i did.
more on this: despite sanka doing their job, i was still unsure since the wheels LOOKED like they were all askew. so since i had to get new shoes anyways, i had amila recheck the alignment. no fancy computers there, just good old physics and lasers. turns out sanka's alignment was perfect. maybe my eyes were playing tricks on me. so ended up paying the price for bad camber. two new tyres. upgraded from the chinese tyres i had to maxxis victras. love the tread on these:
took her for drive on galle road. pushed it a little. grip is much much better compared to the previous tyres. no skidding when braking hard. no ABS engagement. rolling noise is minimal. alignment feels good. no wobble on thrashing or braking.
this is all relative. and i was running shitty tyres due to budget constraints. will eventually swap out the rears for a pair of these as well.
the negative camber was duet to the rubber bushings on the front suspension giving out. it was not an issue with the suspension arms or the chassis. this was later discovered and explained to me by sanka. as the rubber was designed to be on par with the stock spring rates and dampers, it became the weakest link through hich force was dissipated when i switched to coilovers. i had since then replaced all the bushings with prothane PU ones. the camber, caster, and toe now are perfect. the ride however is firmer, and PU bushings tend to creak sometimes.
here's the idle lope described by brian crower. it only happens when the car is pushed a little. otherwise idles just fine. quite cool to listen to it breathing like this!
in a rather odd move, i reverted back to the stock cold air intake. reasons being:
1. no matter how good an aftermarket cone is, our dust and debris are BETTER! and after kelum put so much hard work into building that engine, and me into paying for it, i don't wanna ruin it knowingly.
2. when the engine bay temperature rises, there's a noticeable drop in power. it pulls like a biatch in the mornings and on cold starts, but stops soon afterwards. mind you the stock intake is a cold air intake, sucking in air from under the right quarterpanel, through two boxes.
3. it makes a lovely high pitched whistle/whine. the simota cone was a raspy sound like someone punched a laryngectomy patient hard in the plums...
and here's a video of the fuel pressure gauge, as promised to cyclist. that's not my voice in the background...
so deen's is done with the rear seats. and my god they look amazing!
here's the before:
and here's the after:
the herringbone came out perfect. that's some sartorial skill...
now we wait. let's see how things progress.
Read a very recent news article about a Mercedes G-wagen that went up in flames in the parking lot of a mall in UAE, killing 2 toddlers in the process.
As horrifying as it sounds, I'm curious to know whats up with these modern euro luxo barges going up in flames every now in a while. Inside Edition did a video a long time ago, on several BMWs going up in flames while being parked.
I think you would not mind if I share an advert and expect your advice.
I test drove this https://######.lk/en/ad/mazda-demio-2010-for-sale-gampaha-17 .
Exterior Body and Interior were ok according to my basic knowledge. But as per your instructions, I drove it on a rough road. I'm not confident enough regarding the rack sounds. I'm not sure weather it's a minor repair or not.
Is it possible to check this in a normal garage? I hope to check this by a technician in kandy (which I usually do my repairs). As we come from Kandy, we hope to check this issue (by raising and checking underside )from a garage around kelaniya.
what's your idea? Can we check this by Carmart or any specialised location around Kelaniya.
Your advice is highly appreciated.