Here's a write up on my Daily Driver - the new Civic 1 Litre Turbo - I've so far done just a bit over 1500 Km's and since the engine was new didn't really push it to the max and I have not yet been able to do a really long trip or a drive uphill to BUT I will continue to update the blog based on the experiences as well as services etc. For a start I will touch the basics as well as all the cosmetic stuff and then get into the overall driving experience and later on the services etc. There is also a dedicated thread in the forum that is quite informative. But I hope this blog will also prove useful to someone.
First of all the basics....
In a nutshell the 2017 Civic is the 10th generation in the line up. The particular model I have, and is getting popular in SL goes under the model code FK6 and has a P10A2 engine which has a measly 988cc but is turbocharged.
The car is made in the UK (at Honda's Swindon Plant). I have heard that the agents now bring it down as well. (6.2M for the SR)
There are 3 grades for the 1L turbocharged civic. SE, SR and the EX.
The SE is the most basic model with the EX being the highest (the Tech pack is a further extension of the EX) There is roughly a 5,000 GBP (~ 1 Mil LKR) price difference between the SE and the EX. The SR on the other hand sits comfortably in the middle - it does not have stuff like adaptive damper system that comes on the EX. The Honda UK website lists down the differences of each grade under a section called 'Build your Honda' or something. If you're interested do have a look.
There are 7 colors available and the Rallye Red is the standard . Every other color will cost around 500 GBP more . There is also the "Orange Line Pack" - which is basically an accessory kit that adds a touch of orange into everything - I've seen a few such cars in car sales in SL. Though I initially contemplated Sonic Grey, ended up with a Polished Metal Metallic specimen.
With the 2017 Budget a new tax structure was introduced and under the engine capacity based taxation you'd be paying 17.5 m in taxes (1,754,976 LKR to be precise) for a brand new car with reasonable creature comforts and a bunch of bells and whistles which costs something between 4-5 mill based on the grade ( see above )
For me the new Civic hatch looks like someone started designing and spent too much time doing a good job with the front and then ran out of time to design the posterior and hastily put an end to it. This explains the rather weird looking behind. The Sedan version I have to admit looks better. There's also waay too much plastic in the rear so much so that it looks like a joint venture between Honda and Arpico.
There's a bit of aggressive styling at the front. The car is quite wide and it has a solid ground hugging look to it.
As for the supposed vents you see at the front and the back - well those are fake. They're simply pieces of plastic made to look like vents. And yes it does have fog lights. I like the factory fitted black 17" alloys. Note the SE comes with 16" Alloys as opposed to the 17" found in the SR.
Being a brand new car it came with a humongous bible-like user manual (thankfully in English) - along with the wheel lock nut as well as the tool kit and the tire repair kit (glue and the inflator which by now we are used to) If any of you intend to buy one from a regular car sale make sure they give you your wheel lock nut.
Corolla 121 can be introduced as one of the most popular cars in TYPICAL SRI LANKAN vehicle market. Even being aged closed to 20 years they still sell around 3 million.
So still most buyers are interested about this car, and I planned to share my 7 years of experience in this blog. I used a 2000 manufactured G Grade one which has a 1500cc engine.
What it really is?
Just a compact car designed for A to B transportation with good fuel economy and realiability.
So I’m going to start from how it is like to drive. When compared to the other cars in the same category the acceleration is really good for a 1.5L motor. The car is comparatively lighter than the 110 and Axio, so for me I’m yet to experience a better acceleration from a newer car with the same engine. It has good kick down acceleration due to 4 speed automatic transmission. For me the engine performance is better than the Civic ES5(1.5l), Mazda Axela 2004-2009, Lancer CS series and Nissan Tiida.
Handling is a bit sharper than the newer Axios,Allions and Premios, but not sharp as a Honda or a Mazda. Steering is really light with a very little amount of feedback from the road. Due to the rear torsion beam setup the car is not steady in corners when compared to the older 110 and Carinas(which has independent rear suspension). But it is comparatively better in corners than the Axio.Braking is ok. Neither great nor bad. When it comes to handling Hondas and Mazdas are better.
On the highways the car is steady for speeds around 100-120. After 120 there was a slight vibration(due to the resonance of the engine) but when you accelerate further around 140 the vibration goes away. There is a noticable change in stability after 140 as you can feel the car is well planted than before. You can go all the way upto 180 without any issue ONLY IF YOUR CAR IS IN PERFECT CONDITION(TIRES, ALIGNMENT,BRAKES AND SUSPENSION). I’ve tested twice and really impressed.
For day to day driving around the town the car is good due to reduced length and good ground clearance. Ground clearance is really good when compared to other cars from the same class and even with never Fit,Grace and Prius. The light steering really helps for easy manouvering.
Visibility is okay, but sometimes the thick front A pillars are a bit disturbing. Also there is a problem about visibility when the dashboards is reflected from the windscreen during direct sunlight.
Driving position is pretty higher like most other Toyotas and not sporty at all. Feels like you are sitting on a chair.
When I bought the car it was running on its original shock absorbers. But in 2015 I changed them using Japan made KYB Excel G and it reduced the the comfort level by a considerable amount. But the car is more comfortable than Mazda Axela, Honda Fit GP1 and GP5, Civic FD3, Honda Grace and Vezel, Toyota Aqua. I can really handle potholes well, but bumps can make the car wavy due to the rear torsion beam setup.
The refinement levels are really good when compared to the above mentioned set of cars and it is another field that the 121 really excels. Under lightfooted driving the engine noise can’t be heard, and road noise levels are much lower. After long journeys I felt less tired than the Gp5 and Gp1.
Seats are really comfortable and are a bit firmer than 110,FB15 N16s, but not firm as the Allion Premio 260 2007-2012 F grade and Hondas and Mazdas. One thing that I noticed was the rear seat thigh support is better than the Premios and Allions. Seat space is okay of you are under 6ft. Front seats feel a bit cramped due to the dashboard design beacause I’m 6ft. I always felt that Front seats are less spacious for me when compared to the other cars, even the GP1 is better.
Another area that this car excels. Based on my personal experienced around the town it does only about 9-10 kmpl with full time ac on 92 octane(because I live in a really hilly area). For trips like Colombo to Kandy it car return around 14-15kmpl with full time AC. It returned well over 18kmpl when travelled through highway to matara and longer trips with less traffic with 3-4 adults on borad. Also note that driving pattern hugely affects the economy level. Slow driving will never return good fuel figures. Maintaining a speed level around 70-80 will return really good fuel figures. After the first few months I never calculated fuel figures since it is much less expensive to run.
This is the car which made me a Toyota fan. It never broke down. Never even had to touch the spare tire. I had done 60,000km (93,000km to 153,000km). I only had to do the running repairs and replacements. Did the tuneups and changed the ATF fluid once for every 40,000km. Used only Toyota oils.Did the services on time and never let the “makabasses” touch the car. Changed the AC cooler. Changed one hub razor. Only the running repairs. But remember that most of the cars up for sale have been through much abuse and therefore don’t expect the same level of reliability from every car. Make sure to set aside about Rs.100,000 for the repairs when you are buying a car. Also note that some cars have manufacturing defects, eventhough the car model is proven reliable. I know a guy who sold his 2010 personally imported Allion after doing 60,000kms due to excessive repairs. That depends on your luck.
Has a good amount of options considering it’s age. Always go for a G, G limited or a Luxel grade if you buy one. I will do another entry explaining about all the grades and options.
Interior is really good with soft touch materials on the dashboard and upper doors. All trim pieces are solidly fixed so I never experienced any “creeks”. Interior material quality is better than the 141 Axio and 2nd and 3rd gen Prius. Good when compared with the cars of the same category.
Notable Faults with the car
-The steering rack is issue is famous with these Toyotas. It gives no problem except for the “duk duk” noise when travelling on bad roads. I repaired it but again after 3-4 months the noise came. Best thing is to replace it with a good reconditioned part.
-As mentioned before the dashboard’s reflection on the windscreen reduces the visibility during direct sunlight(only when the sunlight falls directly on the dash)
-The center console has a small compartment, just over the ash tray and the lid of it was broken from the begining and in most 121’s I’ve seen it broken.
-Discoloration of the headlights is pretty fast due to the shape of the headlights
The car was sold over a month ago keeping me a 150,000 profit even after 7 years of usage. Remember that if the price is right you can easily sell it. I was quoting a really high price earlier and got a chance to sell it keeping 275,000 profit. But at that time I had no car to move on so gave up the idea(3 months ago). I advertised the car on a not-that-much-famous site on internet and next day morning two boys came for inspection and in the evening gave the advance. He still calls me due to satisfaction.😃
Really I loved the car throughout it’s stay with me for 7 years. Really a good car which is suited well for the Sri Lankan conditions and Typical Sri Lankan car buyer’s requirements. Make sure to look after the car well and it returns you with good reliability. Always use japanese parts and good mechanics for the repairs.
Hope to do another entry to this blog about the Grades available in 121. This review is based purely on my experience and some details might differ from car to car. Please inform me if there is something inappropriate or wrong and welcome for all comments. I triend my best to provide and unbiased review.Thank you for reading👍
eat. sleep. jdm.
that about sums up my obsession over the last 3 months or so. what first started out as a casual remark by Charith Kulasiri, gradually became malignant. "you know, what if you did a type R conversion on this?"
Ever since I got hold of the GSR teg, this idea has been clawing its way around my brain. Finally, I set about doing it, but to do what must be done to its finest detail is no easy task. My end goal, is to have a 4 door integra db8 type-R in concourse condition. i'll break it down systemwise as i proceed.
my apologies for keeping this away from the AL forums for as long as i have, and i must say this is a conversation i wish to share and enjoy with like minded petrolheads. not the prii driving thel hinganno whose first queries are "wow how much did that cost?" or "now how much petrol does it do?" if you are the latter, read on in awe about how real tuners pump out over 200 HP from an engine the size of a mega bottle. or just go hug a panda.
firstly, here's the base car: before i bought it. a GSR spec 1998 mint Honda Integra DB8.
so i riced it up. forgive me. we all have our moments. at least, after a snide remark from schiffer, i saw this was not the way to go.
here it is after i did the interior and exterior.
now, the fun part. over the next few months or so i'll post what i've been up to with the:
3. ECU and tuning
7. exterior detailing
8. interior detailing
Restoration work began. The idea is to work at home. Found a person to do the tinker work. I do the mechanical work and hoping to do the paint job as well in the future. Firstly removed the interior parts such as car seats. After that, the four doors were removed. Then front and back wings, bonnet & boot. Finally the differential and the engine were removed.
So just planned to do quick review after driving a specific car as it would help most of the people who seek out details about a particular model. Those entries contain details about how the car is like to drive, comfort level, build quality and interesting facts(if there are any). So I will be unable to post details about long term ownership and maintenance.
This review is based on Honda Fit GP5, which is one of the most common cars in SL roads and one of my favourite cars to drive.
I have driven this car in hilly areas, bends, stretches and bad roads. So I will be able to give a brief idea about how it is likely to drive. The first thing you notice when you get into a Honda (specially if you are a Toyota owner) how the seating position, dash layout wraps around you. It just makes you feel like you are sitting in a driver’s car. The seating position feels much sporty and lowered.
The Honda’s Earth Dreams Hybrid system (even though it has those early clutch replacements and a bit unrefined nature) is a joy to drive. The acceleration is really good even when the car is filled with 5 adults. I drove the car from Padukka to Kegalle once with 5 adults and I never felt that it was underpowered. The Fit will do 0-100kmph around 8-9seconds but I never tested that. But trust me the car has more than enough grunt for day to day driving and sudden overtakes. The steering is really light with a little bit of weight, but much sharper than a toyota. It goes where you direct without a delay. In corners it’s steady, feels much more planted and rigid. Given the size and power, the car is miles ahead in the driving area when compared with a Toyota Aqua, the main competitor. You can corner this really hard without any slips or stability issues.
But the issue you’ll find with this car is the unrefined nature of the hybrid system. When you are going slowly round the town, the throttle response is a bit hideous. Sometime you really have to put your foot down to make it get going. When the engine kicks in, it’s much less of a trouble. This is existant in all the three i-DCD equipped models, Grace and Vezel also. Another thing that a felt is that due to the high amount of torque generated by the motor, the car is a bit hard to control during small manevours and specially entering into a garage with a bump. You’ll have to be a bit carefull or otherwise the car will jump forward.
Around the town the car is a breeze to handle due to low turning radius and light steering.
When compared with an Aqua, the ride is pretty comfortable, but not as a sedan with softer suspension setting, such as an Axio Hybrid. The seats are on the firm side and the suspension too, but for me the car feels a bit more comfortable than the Aqua. Also the seats hold you better when cornering providing good side support. One thing that you’ll notice is the amount of leg space for the both front and rear occupents when considering the size of the car. It’s really adorable.
One day I drove a Fit from Kadawatha to Kegalle and after the journey I felt a bit tired which I never felt in my 121. That’s due to the stiffer suspension and a bit higher road noise levels since it’s a hatch.
Most of the materials used are hard plastic. But the finish makes it feel a bit more upmarket. The door panels and dash are nicely finised with silver accents and piano black insertings, so I find the car to be miles ahead when compared with Aqua, Vitz and even the 3rd Gen Prius.
The car has much more options such as paddle shifters, brake hold and LCD colour multi information display.
Interesting Features and facts
-The climate control system is touch sensitive, which cannot be seen on far more expensive car models. It’s really cool, but sometimes a bit harder to control on the move.
-During a hard braking, the signal lights alert the rear driver by doing fast pulses.
-When you pass 100kmph, there is not much power left.
-Just like most Honda’s the original speakers are really good. Make sure to use a good head unit or keep the original japanese one than replacing with a crappy chinses head unit.
Overall the GP5 is a car that I really love to drive and would fit a small family with kids nicely. The economy is good but not good as an Aqua. But beware of the dual clutch system and the hybrid battery when you are buying one.
This review is based on my personal experiences and other people might have different opinions. If there is anything wrong or inappropriate please let me know. Also that this review is not sufficient as a deciding factor for a new car since it omly covers about the brief time period of driving experience but not MAINTENANCE AND DAILY DRIVING. Looking forward for your comments🤗Thank you for reading!
this was where a lot of changes happened as well. nothing against ultra racing, but i did go into yoda levels of Zen with Type R lore whithin those 8 months of hibernation. in which i fell in love with the sleek aluminium struts made by honda itself. in his time i also found out that he Type R sedan had a production run of 1400 cars, all made for the japanese market. and within that, for the 1998-1999 model years, there was a very limited production of an OEM rear tower strut bar. it was the same as the front, with a specialized bracket. for some reason this option was discontinued in later models.
so one by one the Ultra Racing braces came off and were sold to capable hands. i replaced them with the clean and simple OEM aluminium from tower strut.
the rear tower strut was not so easy to come by. since i couldn't find one in japanese auctions, i then sourced another front tower strut and got a set of custom brackets from Tegiwa motorsports in japan. the only aftermarket company to make them. also in true Type R minimalistic style i stripped the boot of all the trim and gave it a few coats of spatter paint, for that on-a-diet look.
another little gem was the spare wheel. i had a 4x100PCD spare which mind you didn't clear my GSR calipers. anyways it was redundant with the 5x 114.4 setup so i went about hunting for a donut spare. lo and behold, its the same PCD as the nissan leaf, and since that doesn't come with a spare, suddenly 5 lug spares were the bees knees. everyone wanted one. had to bargain one down to 17,000 from 22,000 at JJ lanka, which was the cheapest i could find.
the rear also got some custom work done. i removed the Ultra racing rear member brace, and replaced that with:
1. aftermarket lightweight rear lower control arms
2. sickspeed rear member brace
3. Beaks rear lower tie bar.
mostly since it looks so badass for someone tailing me! just showing off... poddak
the coilovers remain the same, however. they're still good to do and i run the a few clicks north of the softest dampening settings. i have, over time, replaced all the bushings with polyurenthane, and now the camber and toe settings front and rear are perfect. she does creak, and she is stiff, especially the rear, since the trailing arm is now more or less stationary! but hey, id rather that that replace tyres every 6 months...
possibly the only bit of the car that largely stayed the same during this period. the gearbox itself was left unfettered with. as the ratios were superb, and even the clutch was working well after runnin ghte december 2017 drags also.
what i have changed of course, is the shortshifter and knob. went for a Skunk2 dual bend short throw shifter, mated to a Skunk2 weighted aluminium knob. was a costly piece but my god the shift feel is velvet cheesecake. and with all bushings being polyurethane, its just the right tightness with zero play.
the dual bend is what's employed by honda in their factory manual GSR as well, albeit not being as short as this.
a few upgrades happened along the way to the braking as well. firstly i replaced the master cylinder and pump with a brand new honda item, and flushed the whole system out for DOT4 brake oil.
the rotors were upgraded again, as i had opted for 114.4x5 PCD hubs and the OEM ITR alloys, both components hunted down from scrapyards in dubai. i put in a brand new set of cross drilled and slotted aftermarket rotors. the brake pads are EBC green stuff.
the front hubs, were replaced with the 5 lug ITR hubs. the caliper and rotor of which, i have read is the same as the one on the NSX.
the brake lines were replaced with steel-kevlar cross braided ones form Stop-tech.
this improved the brake bite and force phenomenally. the car would stop on a dime and the brakes almost felt like an on-off switch! if the acceleration doesn't wow you on this car, the braking sure will!
a little activity i would like to blog on after a long time. this might help our newbie Sierra Charlie as well. here's the result of my negative camber on the front wheels. chewed through brand new tyres within an year. its gone down to the wire on the inner lip. i'm buying a new pair tomorrow.
this is not a result of me neglecting it, but of me not knowing what else to do after correcting the camber with adjustable upper arms on the front sus. learned later that you get adjustable upper arm mounting points, and got them down only this month: these give an added 3 degrees of camber either way.
to clarify, all this brouhaha is because i have an uncorrectable negative camber on the front passenger side wheel. even with full positive setting, there was -2.08 on that side. why only that side i cant figure out. maybe a previous accident. who knows? but as you can see it had its impact on the tyre. now tho, its all aligned perfectly.
to add to this, there was a toe out of the rear wheel. this too i didn't know there was adjustment for it. the gut at the alignment center suggested this, and i got down the adjustable toe arms as well. so now the rear alignment is spot on as well. finally.
on a separate note, i had some trouble with the AC, and as always, the culprit being our makabaases thinking "ooh this looks like it'll fit! let slap it on!". my compressor packed up, and when we looked into the matter, apparently i've been running a toyota compressor. now the interesting fact is that toyota engines crank one way, and honda the other way! so not quite sure how this managed to work this long even. bottom line is, we had no sample to get a new one from, and after much hunting and frustration, sourced a condenser and compressor off a b20b CRV engine. perfect fit.
to clarify my loving fan(s):
1. the camber kit, front and rear, (not available in SL) cost me 50$
2. recon IACV valve (OS at tech, 27,000) cost me $30
3. shipping for above $45, tax 1500
4. makabaas = NOT indika. not a repair i did.
more on this: despite sanka doing their job, i was still unsure since the wheels LOOKED like they were all askew. so since i had to get new shoes anyways, i had amila recheck the alignment. no fancy computers there, just good old physics and lasers. turns out sanka's alignment was perfect. maybe my eyes were playing tricks on me. so ended up paying the price for bad camber. two new tyres. upgraded from the chinese tyres i had to maxxis victras. love the tread on these:
took her for drive on galle road. pushed it a little. grip is much much better compared to the previous tyres. no skidding when braking hard. no ABS engagement. rolling noise is minimal. alignment feels good. no wobble on thrashing or braking.
this is all relative. and i was running shitty tyres due to budget constraints. will eventually swap out the rears for a pair of these as well.
the negative camber was duet to the rubber bushings on the front suspension giving out. it was not an issue with the suspension arms or the chassis. this was later discovered and explained to me by sanka. as the rubber was designed to be on par with the stock spring rates and dampers, it became the weakest link through hich force was dissipated when i switched to coilovers. i had since then replaced all the bushings with prothane PU ones. the camber, caster, and toe now are perfect. the ride however is firmer, and PU bushings tend to creak sometimes.
so that was a 1150km round trip, and the car was a blast. those hilly roads between pelmadulla and walawe, and then again between ratnapura and panadura were fantastic. grips the road like its on rails, and the rear comes in just perfectly. not a hint of understeer.
rough calculations give me 10kmpl. not bad, i guess!
meanwhile in batticaloa...
these two chaps were scouting the car and looking around, acting rather cheeky. then one of them "shape eke" leant against it while the other took some photos!
after 2 months of waiting, my shifter linkage parts finally arrived.
prothane bushings, with brass washers
linkage pin and clip. that pin costs 5000 here, but 5$ OEM honda part on ebay.
here's the shifter play before installing:
and here's the shifter after installing. feels so silky smooth... almost like hot caramel syrup on hirunika's thigh...
this feels so good, its unbeleivable. really feels like a shifter of a brand new car. well worth the investment.
also, got the play in the passenger seat fixed (again. for good this time round tho)
and a humming noise in the engine, due to a vacuum valve being faulty. got that replaced as well.
now working hard on the said tuning magic, and trying to find a front bumper.
this just never ends, does it??
lots more little little things to do.
She's back at ashans for that last great tune up. The BC cams are going to go back in, the proper way this time. And get degreed in, advanced/retarded etc. capped off with a custom tune from Ashan...
... On a hondata s300 version 2.0 chipped ecu
i give the car to ashan on monday. tuesday afternoon i get this photo:
first tuning run tomorrow apparently. i'm still wrapping my head around how an engine comes out, cames get instaleld and degreed in, and then goes back in and car drives away all in 48 hours, in sri lanka!
apparently, the cams have to be degreed in, while factoring the crank angle as well. which is what is going on here. you learn something new everyday
hummana hummana hummana!
so apparently the contents of that box, does this to one's car:
that's on third gear. VTEC crossover at 6000rpm. no jerky business. a smooth transition. ashan removed the resonator of the intake to improve air flow. need to customize an intake pipe out to the bottom later.
but oh my word...
this is with, of course, silyl shifting by moi, and the tachometer seems to have started to do the disco. going back after avurudu to reign in that bad boy.
A few updates:
1. Removed the bc cams and installed the stock ones to check on a vtec issue. Good news is that vtec is working perfectly fine and the car is a firecracker. The bc cams need to be installed properly and the ecu remapped. Previous tune by Zackie wasn't working for me, and I switched to Ashan silva from D&D. Work in progress, of course, I will be going back to him end march, so will keep you boys posted.
2. She's about to go in to get the cosmetics sorted. Paint peeling from here and there etc
3. Ordered the complete set of prothane shifter linkage bushings and linkage pin (6$ oem Honda on eBay, 4000 rupees in Sri Lanka) waiting for them to arrive. That play in the shifter is like having a thorn in my backside.
All in all, she's come alive in the last month after Ashan got his hands on her. Expecting greater nights once and cam/ignition timing is adjusted and remapped.
so during the big match weekend i got a few things sorted.
1. raised the rear end slightly. got tired of scraping my ass all over the place. a bit too high now need to lower it again. one of those "i'm never happy with this" moments
2. entire rear suspension bushing set was redone. car handles much better now and no "jabos" sounds from here and there when cornering.
3. got that awful paint peel-off fleck sorted. the rivet holes were filled, rear end sanded and painted properly. finally i have an ass worthy of talking about.
also had the power steering hoses replaced.
few other little ding dongs planned for this year. will update as it happens
so here's a little something i was upto a few weeks ago. just after the stock cams were installed. i'm in no way pushing it here, so its not blsitering-ly fast. but the VTEC works, and works well.
Got the side skirts sorted finally. They weren't clipped in place so got that done.
Got the wife a little seat cushion to lift her tuckus when she sits. Never heard the end of that!!
Also playing around with ignition timing. Feel it's too advanced at the moment.
Interesting development: I had an issue with the Teg over the last few months. She was getting sluggish, and vtec wasn't kicking in. Had to rev to higher rpm's to hit cruising speed, and had me thinking all sorts of things from final drive swap to a retune.
Finally had our tame racing drivers Dhilan Sabar and Nigel Perera thrash her around a little and see what's what. They both concurred on the fact that it was fuel starvation. Idle fuel pressure was 42 psi, which was normal but when throttled it dropped to the low 30's, instead of spiking. So the Perera-Sabar forum advised to:
1. Replace fuel filter, which was probably stock, and now pushing 15 years with our golden nectar
2. Service the vtec solenoid.
All done, replaced with a Nissan filter used on the track cars by the local boys, under 1600/-
And she shot out of the garage like a bat out of hell! Holy crap the difference!! Throttled fuel pressure reading now blips up to 60psi, and my god that makes a world of a difference tho. Still I want a more pronounced vtec engagement. Should speak to Zackie about it.
Custom ecu map by Zackie.
Perfect 900 idle. No lope even after a burn
Vtec engaged at 4400
Redline at 9000
And what a balanced tune it is. Loads more low rpm torque from 1500-3000. Car feels as nimble as a your wife's lover leaving through the window. Much lighter on her toes. And I thought it was my header that cut the power!
And she sings beyond the magic mark. Oh. My. God.
5am. Baseline road. 150 on [email protected] Shifted into 5th. And she settles down to a comfy cruise at around 4000. Every inch of her says just try it. I didn't have the courage.
I'm back on eBay looking for the next upgrade: bigger hairy balls version 2.0. mine are clearly OEM!!
was a little bored today so i stuck some decals on the teg. these were long overdue. had them lying aorund the house. some were too big for under the hood, so i need to resize them and print it out.
*-couldn't find original photo. this was from a much MUCH later photoshoot-*
next up, the tune. just marking time til i can get that done. will do a dyno run afterwards as well
with great difficulty i found this online. have been looking for the driver's side glove box. its not there on the LHD versions, so naturally not easy to come by. finally sourced it from UK. i wonder who in heaven's name nicked it in the first place, but it left a gaping hole in my dash...
finally managed to bite the bullet and get a good set of coilovers. after much ruminating and constipating over the deicision, went with GAB adjustable coilovers. they're the same spec as D2, with 36 way adjustable dampening and ride height as well. and local agency (a proper one, not a catfought badu-wali type agency like d2's) being around means parts are easy to ship in. also they're the cheapest option. d2's would have been at least 40,000 more.
and the ride... my god, the ride! what the hell was i doing with those coils and dampers? the car is finally coming alive! holy crap its so comfy! doens't bounce like a golden key cheque, and is just sex on wheels! sex!!
installed at project performance, behind no limit in mount lavinia. guys know what they're doing, and set the damper settings and ride height perfectly.
here's the all important little doohickey! 36 clicks this way and that. right now its set just south of midway.
aand the final ride height. took it for a spin. this was too low. the mud flaps were sweeping the road. so we raised it half an inch
met an interesting chap at the garage. he mistook the teg for zackie's car. after he had his moment, i quietly explained to him that this is mine. he then asks me, "so who's car is this?" to which i had to repeat "look, i'm suneth, and this is my car" how much simpler can i make it? just because someone with a racing pedigree didn't build it, doensn't mean it's not any good...
haney mehemath minissu
The front camber has gone a little askew. It's at it's max possible adjustment, but still negative 2.5 right and 1.2 left. Very odd. Have to lengthen the camber adjustment holes on the upper arms and get it set properly. Have no idea what caused that.
Also removed the front lower member brace. Hit a rock at 5kmph outsi the garage and this dastardly thing warped out of shape. Was putting undue stress on the suspension, and obstructing the gear shifter linkage. So I swallowed my pride and removed it. Useless junk, that was.
Gave the front mudflaps to Ajitha to make a mould and do a new pair that were shorter, so I don't look like that dog without ABS being dragged into the water. It was also ruining the flaps. He should be done with it in a day or two
Waiting for a quotation from Kapruka for the brakes
And of course saving money to go see Zackie for that all important tune
so an update. the much hyped about photo shoot happened today morning. i'm still waiting for the pro shots, but here are a few that were taken by the owner of that sweet a$$ boosted sera:
also, more on the build. i guess now is the time sanity prevails over its counterpart. in the effort to make this more easy a daily driver, i ordered a set of D2 street spec coilovers. the lwoering sprigns i bought are a clear darwin award winner, and i will never recommend them to anyone. the stock shock is too soft for it and the car tends to bounce like a playmate on a trampoline... and i fear for my engine mounts, dashboard mounts and testicles! those will be coming in soon.
also, getting a B16 CTR ecu, and will be running that for some time, before giving the car to zackie for a full tuneup. drove macroxx's car today, which was tuned by zackie, and it was a blast! that really is the last bit left. will be hobbling and hogging the slow lane til i get these issues sorted out...
Got hold of a b16 sir obd1 ecu. Gave it to Zackie to see if magic can be worked...
also, got all the little elctrical niggles fixed today. the horn ribbon in the steering cassette had torn off its moorings. so that was fixed. a new cassette was 5500 so i'm pretty thankful to the electrical guy for fixing the existing one. also fixed the decentralised locking issue. and the brake lights, and that annoying fog light switch which was always lit up. need to go back to him once more to sort out the seatbelt pre tensioner being on the wrong side issue!
zackie approved of the ECU i got, its with him at the mo. need to hand over the car soon for a tune.
brakes and coilovers are on the way.
one of these days i have to pop over to the fiber guy and get the front mudflaps redone. before they leave me.
aah, post automotive-coital smoke time...
here's the idle lope described by brian crower. it only happens when the car is pushed a little. otherwise idles just fine. quite cool to listen to it breathing like this!
in a rather odd move, i reverted back to the stock cold air intake. reasons being:
1. no matter how good an aftermarket cone is, our dust and debris are BETTER! and after kelum put so much hard work into building that engine, and me into paying for it, i don't wanna ruin it knowingly.
2. when the engine bay temperature rises, there's a noticeable drop in power. it pulls like a biatch in the mornings and on cold starts, but stops soon afterwards. mind you the stock intake is a cold air intake, sucking in air from under the right quarterpanel, through two boxes.
3. it makes a lovely high pitched whistle/whine. the simota cone was a raspy sound like someone punched a laryngectomy patient hard in the plums...
and here's a video of the fuel pressure gauge, as promised to cyclist. that's not my voice in the background...
the silencer is mounted on two rubber bushes. we left it a little room to wobble. it settles down at higher rpm's.
and yes, i wanted to lose the mudflaps too. maybe at least cut the fronts so they don't scrape all the time.
the endless hours i put into this really did pay off. i just can't describe the feeling sitting behind that wheel!
the datsun, yes, is getting a spec as-close-as-i-can-get SSS conversion. again, full interior, exterior, the works. L16 motor, 5 speed box, discs all round etc etc more details on the datsun thread as work starts.
as for the ITR, my immediate concerns:
3. brake kit.
will update this thread as it happens.
met up with buggati and VVTi for a beer. took a few nice shots. will upload when i get 'em
finally, at long long last, its done. i can't beleive i'm actually typing this. just doesn't feel real. now that i've come to this day, i don't know what to do or say!
fixed, the accelerator cable, the seats, the bonnet, and finished the paint. taking her for a test drive tomorrow to see what gives, and i'm getting a cut and polish done to finish off the paint in one go. now that i've waited thisl ong there's no point hurrying it home without that... plus anyways i have to visit bara to sort out the stereo and pay a visit to the electrician as well.
the devil is in the details. those sickspeed red washers really look nice on white. hot damn
supra this one's for you. since you asked where the steering was... <3
its good to see the hood back on again.
... and even better to see it closed!
a few small things remain:
fog lights and turn signals in front to be fixed
i got a hella supertone horn. yeah, thought wtf. that needs to be mounted
seatbelt buckles have to be fixed. those need a mount to be fabricated, for which, unfortunately, i need that damned tinker again. no idea when he'll return
battery gave out before i could take any shots of the seats in place. tomorrow tomorrow...
stuck at home on a saturday trolling the interwebs, and thought well...
here's what was done on that day. as obvious, nothing more was done since then. basically if i don't go, sh*t just stops. brilliant.
the bumpers have been sanded and prepped for paint. all the clips brought down for the mudguards. they were toying with the front seat rails when i went today.
still missing the passenger front door wire harness. they'll be bolting the door trims once they find that.
the exhaust mod is the last thing that needs to be done. indika will be getting this out of the paint stall soon. probably tomorrow.
so close. yet so fcuking far...
here's the work that did happen yesterday:
all the rubber beadings are in:
as are the four power window mechanisms, greased and ready to go. he's put the wrong set of seatbelts. so those have to come out.
and the rear lights, lock are on as well. damn those look nice:
hopefully we can get mroe work done on wednesday
a day of days... i am completely, utterly blown away. moved, beyond words. its done. at long last. the mechanicals at least. and it is a work of art!
here's me trying out the shortshift. and what a shift it is! tighter than virgin p*ssy, creamy smooth, i've not felt a gear this good in a long while. aah!
and here's a clip taking her out of the space she's been in for the better part of the year.
and finally kelum eases off once outside:
it was my turn to drive it afterwards. i wish i could've filmed that. absolutely speechless. she moves. like a hare with its ass on fire. and i didn't even hit 4000 rpm. rib crunching, pant-wetting god-fearing power.
see!! i told you guys there's a 4 door type R! its a very rare JDM only DC2 model. never made it out of japan. but it DOES EXIST!! props to chooty putha for finding this vid! wow... i was in ecstasy... and i want my car back!
so here's the strut tower bars in place. have to do a little messing around to get the aluminium bar in place. but we'll firgure something out. the double bars were a perfect fit for the stock strut tower. but i had to be the smartass and change that no... :S
aand finally, after long last they are prepping her for the last coat. so happy. only a few more weeks!
a little more each day. the gear lever was finally sorted, and the floorboards closed. the shortshifter was also installed, with a little lesson on physics.
paint prep work is also progressing alongside.
i really dunno where to start. to hear that engine kick up today... probably the happiest thing i'll hear next to the cries of my unborn son/daughter. and it idles PERFECT. there's no "gentle lope" or "rough idle" that so many people spoke about with the BC cams, saying that i won't be able to move the car a foot without an aftermarket ecu. you can see for yourself:
also, here's the finished engine bay, with the dizzie mounted, plug wires installed and wire cover in place.
also, pug306, you asked what the gauge was. its a fuel pressure gauge, here's a closeup. it does a little jig on ignition, which is hella cool, i'll try and record that soon.
now, onwards to finish the paint. and then the interior!
thanks guys! it is such a pleasure to see it all come into place. and cyclist, yes i did wonder that myself! but here are a list of things that need to go in there:
1. wiper washer fluid reservoir
2. type R aluminium strut tower bar
3. ultra racing 3 point tower strut
4. the battery
5. the grouding wire kit with the engine bay mounted voltmeter
6. the 4 ballasts for the two pairs of HID's.
so all that should hopefully fill the gaps. i remember the first painter saying that the engine was a "saagarayak". somehow saagare hindila wagey tikak, no?
but trust me man, at this moment in time i am simply overjoyed and beside myself. look how well she idles. and the noise... oh the noise! you guys should hear it in person. the hint of bass the whine of the intake. its pure automotive auditory orgasm! with the APEXi exhaust note it should be even sweeter...
so kelum is back after being AWOL for 3 days. i was a bit upset, but then seeing this when i went today, couldn't voice a word of protest!
there goes the simota intake and piping. more on kelum, apparently his sister was a navy officer shot in trinco camp due to some mishap. its been an year so the daane bana etc. i heard about this from my friends at trinco hospital. she succumbed to her injuries there. small worls, sri lanka definitely is.
also mounted the engine mounts under the car, those were broken, so replaced.
the new radiator doesn't have screws for the auxiliary fan. need to fabricate those and stick it in
there it is! only the dizzie left to be mounted. the clutch reservoir has its own screws also. its like EVERYTHING in this car was made for a manual gearbox. uncanny!
more happening tomorrow. we'll be fabricating a bracket for the intake piping as well. ignition is not so far away now!
drawing that much nearer to completion. fixed the coil in place neatly with a bracket:
also bolted the intake pipe onto the engine. that mount took a better part of the day to fabricate. frustrating, yes, but i'd rather all this be done neatly, and with attention to detail. and this is one example of kelum's devotion to that very quality:
and then all the little hoses and vacuum lines were connected.
and that, gentlemen, is it! tomorrow we wire up the distributor, connect the accelerator cable, fill up the oils and water, fire her up and see what gives! after so long, the wait is over. clearly, i'm losing sleep over it! hooray!!
more work, ah the joy! got down and dirty today as well. connected the wire harness, which took most of the morning, and then plugged in the radiator hoses.
then proceeded to thermal wrap the exhaust. and had to fabricate a new mount, since the prop shaft got in the way. another hurdle of a manual convo...
and then in it went:
what an utterly rewarding day! exhausted, but so so content...
the header gave quite a fight yesterday. all the mounts were different because of the auto box, so had to cut and weld everything back into place. half a day was lost on that process.
so today the power steering pump and ac compressor went back on. along with the hydraulics and ac hoses
which means the engine is almost nearly finished. only the distributor and intake isleft to be installed.
broke open the dizzie to clean up. and have to read up on how to mount and wire the msd ignition kit.
that's for tomorrow. also, we thought of getting her off her perch and onto the rubber. so we're fixing the lowering springs now, and putting the driveshafts into place. sadly couldn't stay long with her today. had to pick wifey up from work at 2pm.
those struts just made my heart stop.
going into the 7th month now. today the mechanic has suddenly gone home. supposed to come back tomorrow...
at least she's off her perch, and back on her feet again.
and when ti rains it pours!
went today and its all bolted together. gearbox, mounts etc...
and then up it went on the hoist. and a lot of grunting and heave-ho'ing later...
in she goes. mounts connected. sitting pretty. next on is getting everything connected. dizzy is till out. will do the hoses behind the engine first...
Guys is it possible that RMV back in the old days get the YOM of a car wrong? There's a particular car which says 1981 in the CR but when i cross check the Model number online it falls in a range of cars made in 1984.
Does the Honda Grace also have the DCT issue? So far I haven't heard any issue regarding the Grace, one guy told me the problem is only with Vezel and FIT but doesn't the Grace also share the same gearbox?