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  • Komisiripala

    Project R - December 15th 2012

    By Komisiripala

    eat. sleep. jdm. that about sums up my obsession over the last 3 months or so. what first started out as a casual remark by Charith Kulasiri, gradually became malignant. "you know, what if you did a type R conversion on this?" Ever since I got hold of the GSR teg, this idea has been clawing its way around my brain. Finally, I set about doing it, but to do what must be done to its finest detail is no easy task. My end goal, is to have a 4 door integra db8 type-R in concourse condition. i'll break it down systemwise as i proceed. my apologies for keeping this away from the AL forums for as long as i have, and i must say this is a conversation i wish to share and enjoy with like minded petrolheads. not the prii driving thel hinganno whose first queries are "wow how much did that cost?" or "now how much petrol does it do?" if you are the latter, read on in awe about how real tuners pump out over 200 HP from an engine the size of a mega bottle. or just go hug a panda. firstly, here's the base car: before i bought it. a GSR spec 1998 mint Honda Integra DB8.     so i riced it up. forgive me. we all have our moments. at least, after a snide remark from schiffer, i saw this was not the way to go. here it is after i did the interior and exterior.     now, the fun part. over the next few months or so i'll post what i've been up to with the: 1. engine 2. gearbox 3. ECU and tuning 4. intake/exhaust 5. cooling 6. suspension/handling 7. exterior detailing 8. interior detailing
    • 0 comments
    • 501 views
  • matroska

    [Civic 2018]First Impressions and the basics

    By matroska

    Here's  a write up on my Daily Driver - the new Civic 1 Litre Turbo - I've so far done just a bit over 1500 Km's and  since the engine was new didn't really push it to the max and I have not yet been able to do a really long trip  or a drive uphill to  BUT I will continue to update the blog based  on the experiences as well as services etc.  For a start I will touch the basics as well as all the cosmetic stuff and then get into the overall driving experience and later on the services etc. There is also a dedicated thread in the forum that is quite informative. But I hope this blog will also prove useful to someone.  First of all the basics.... In a nutshell the 2017 Civic is the 10th generation in the line up. The particular model I have, and is getting popular in SL  goes under the model code FK6 and has a P10A2 engine which has a measly 988cc but is turbocharged.
    The car is made in the UK (at Honda's Swindon Plant). I have heard that the agents now bring it down as well. (6.2M for the SR) 
    There are 3 grades for the 1L turbocharged civic. SE, SR and the EX.  The SE is the most basic model with the EX being the highest (the Tech pack is a further extension of the EX) There is roughly a 5,000 GBP (~ 1 Mil LKR) price difference between the SE and the EX. The SR on the other hand sits comfortably in the middle - it does not have stuff like adaptive damper system that comes on the EX. The Honda UK website lists down the differences of each grade under a section called 'Build your Honda' or something. If you're interested do have a look.  There are 7 colors available and the Rallye Red is the standard . Every other color will cost around 500 GBP more . There is also the  "Orange Line Pack" - which is basically an accessory kit that adds a touch of orange into everything - I've seen a few such cars in car sales in SL. Though I initially contemplated Sonic Grey, ended up with a Polished Metal Metallic specimen.  With the 2017 Budget a new tax structure was introduced and under the engine capacity based taxation  you'd be paying 17.5 m in taxes  (1,754,976 LKR  to be precise) for a brand new car with reasonable creature comforts and a bunch of bells and whistles which costs something between 4-5 mill based on the grade ( see above )   First Impressions  For me the new  Civic hatch  looks like someone started designing and spent too much time  doing a good job with the front and then ran out of time to design the posterior and hastily put an end to it. This explains the rather weird looking behind. The Sedan version I have to admit looks better. There's also waay too much plastic in the rear so much so that it looks like a joint venture between Honda and Arpico.  There's a bit of aggressive styling at the front. The car is quite wide and it has a solid ground hugging look to it.  As for the supposed vents you see at the front and the back - well those are fake. They're simply pieces of plastic made to look like vents.  And yes it does have fog lights. I like the factory fitted black 17" alloys. Note the SE comes with 16" Alloys as opposed to the 17" found in the SR.  Being a brand new car it came with a humongous bible-like user manual (thankfully in English) - along with the wheel lock nut as well as the tool kit and the tire  repair kit (glue and the inflator which by now we are used to)  If any of you intend to buy one from a regular car sale make sure they give you  your wheel lock nut.     
    • 9 comments
    • 850 views
  • matroska

    [Civic 2018] A look at the interior

    By matroska

    The first thing that struck me when i sat down to drive this for the first time was the really low seating position - it did not take a lot of getting used to though. The height is of course adjustable and provides a much comfier driving position.  The passengers seat on the other hand though cannot be height adjusted. The rear seats too don't have the fabled "magic seats" functionality where you can fold up the seats to increase space in the rear - but you can fold the seats down to create a humongous amount of boot space - I do not quite remember the exact capacity but it's quite a lot. Due to the shape of the roof , while the rear seats are quite comfortable and have a decent amount of space for your legs you might feel a bit of head room is missing. But it won't really translate into a problem - unless you are from Marhsall Eriksen's family .  The SR grade (and the SE) for that matter comes with fabric seats  - and  the interior is black by default (for all grades) . So no "Baij Interiyal" advertisements on the classifieds for this model then.  The materials for the seats are quite "scruffy" and the interior is a dust magnet. The material used on the seats particularly are prone to attract a lot of dust and small particles of whatnot.      There are speakers on all four doors - something I noticed in other contemporary Hondas as well - the doors also have the same dust-attractive upholstery.   I told you there's only a repair kit - but the good news is there is a bit of space in the rear that can double up as storage space or a spare wheel well - so if you're paranoid about having only a repair kit, you can easily carry around a spare      The cockpit is contemporary Honda fare. The steering wheel itself is quite plush and has a nice feel to it - though the steering itself is light which I will talk about when i have an entry regarding handling. The usual controls are all there including the cruise control buttons and beneath the wheel you can find the paddle shifters (again paddle shifters + CVT is something i would talk about later) The control for the lane keep assistant is also in the steering wheel.    Mind you the Wiper control stalk is on the right and the headlight control stalk is on the left  - takes a bit of getting used to if you've previously driven JDM's only. The "Auto" mode in the Wiper means that it will enable the rain sensing wipers and depending on the amount of rain you get the speed will adjust as well. Nice touch but i personally feel it's a bit too dramatic. If i remember correctly the SE grade does not have rain sensing wipers.  This being the SR grade you do not get a push start you need a key - the Push start button is there only on the EX trim.        With the honda sensing package you get some features like proximity alerts, automatic breaking and lane departure warning. These can be turned on and off and the switches are located near the ignition on the right hand side along with the headlamp leveling switch.  The shifter console includes the parking brake (yes there's no separate lever for that), the brake hold button (so your foot can be taken off the brake in for example color lights) there is also a button to toggle the eco-mode as well as to turn on and off auto-braking. Between these two buttons you would find the adaptive damper  button on an EX-trim car.     There cubby hole is quite small and disappointing given the fact that this is not an alto- and there are no individual cup holders etc - there is a circular holder that can easily accommodate a bottle in the storage area below the slide-able arm rest. This storage area also has a usb port that can be used with the infotainment system. However it has to be said both the usb outlets in front are not in the most accessible places. The other usb slot is practically invisible and hidden by the armrest console along with the HDMI port and  Next to that is the 12V circular power outlet. Mind you there is another 12 V power outlet in the boot as well - handy when it comes to plug in your car vacuum.  There is also dual zone climate control - other than the dedicated climate control panel fan speed etc can be set via the touch screen.   
    • 9 comments
    • 626 views
  • Magnum

    Journey With The Hiace

    By Magnum

    It's been little more than 4 years with my Hiace and it has done around 76,000kms so I thought its time I give you guys an update on it. Let me start the blog with the basics,  Mine is a Toyota Hiace KDH206, this variant of Hiace is fitted with a 1KD-FTV turbo engine with an all wheel drive system. The AWD system in the KDH series is pretty much full time, it runs on all four wheels normally and if any of the wheels experience a slippage, the vehicle stops sending power to that specific wheel.
    There is a noticeable difference between the AWD variant(KDH206) and RWD variant(KDH201). The KDH206 is around 100kg heavier and you could feel that through the steering when you drive one. In addition, the KDH206 feels far more planted at higher speeds and around corners than the RWD variant. However the downside is that the full time AWD system drinks bit more fuel than RWD version.  Cost of Maintenance In short the Hiace is not cheap run, I get fuel economy of around 6km/l in kandy and around 9-10km/l outstation, the RWD KDH201 would return around another extra 2km more per litre. Hiace is originally fitted with 195/80R15 8ply tyres and they cost around 22-23.5K per tyre from brands like Continental or Pirelli, while Maxxis tyre could be found for around 16k.
    The Hiace requires 0W-30 oil and a regular service which needs to be carried out every 5000km costs around 10K using Toyota oil, I was using Toyota oil filter as well, but now I have switched to VIC.
    ATF oil must be changed around every 40k kms, I change air filter and cabin filter every year. 
    It requires super diesel and this is an absolute must, if you regularly pump auto diesel you will pay more in repairs than what you saved by pumping auto diesel. The most likely issues you would get from pumping auto diesel are DPF, which costs around 70-80k to replace and injectors, which would set you back around 500k for all four. So far I had to change only a bush which costed around 50rs, apart from that I have not had any repairs. Performance The Hiace pulls pretty well for a vehicle which weighs 2 tonnes, the 1KD-FTV with a variable nozzle turbo produces 100kw at 3400RPM and 300nm of torque at 1200-3200rpm and it is connected to a 4 speed conventional automatic gearbox. Overtaking other vehicles with Hiace is pretty easy, you just have to put your foot down, the turbo will come to life and you would be gone. It is always on the right gear, there's no unnecessary downshifts or up shifts, the gearing ratios are perfectly synced with the power band of the engine although it is only a 4 speed gearbox in a world of 6 and 7 speed gearboxes.
    The Hiace properly comes to life on hill climbs with the help of low end power and variable nozzle turbo.
    Handling is fairly good for a van, it handles better than large SUVs. The KDH series has much less body roll compared to the previous LH series, but it isn't great as handling of a car. I notice the difference in handling when I drive the Hiace after driving our Bluebird which has front and rear independent suspension. Comfort It doesn't handle large potholes and bumps as good as a car, but it does manage to soften small potholes pretty well. The diesel engine noise is evident compared to a hybrid or petrol vehicle but the noise reduces when the vehicle gets to the third gear or at around 70+ km/h speed. The A/C is epic on the Hiace, it is one of the best cooling A/C I have come across, I rarely have to set the A/C temperature below 26 degree Celsius on auto mode and that is without the dual A/C. 
    There is plenty of space inside, 7 or 8 people could travel on long journeys with their legs stretched out and not crammed. The second row seat is the best place to be in, you get the dual A/C right in front of you, it is acoustic sweet spot and minimal sunlight enters the cabin. Practicality It is quite a practical vehicle if you are using it occasionally or for long journeys as it can seat 8 comfortably yet carry plenty of luggage(you could fit around 4-5 large travelling bag placed horizontally), it has got atleast double the amount of luggage space compared to a Noah/Esquire. However it is bit of waste of money if you are using it on daily basis as fuel bills are gone be crazy and parking these are not that easy within city limits. In addition, maneuvering these around narrow roads requires some skills especially roads with tight bends. Second hand value and parts Selling a KDH isn't difficult at all, if you maintain them right there will always be people willing it to buy it from you. There are plenty of body parts available but 1KD engine parts are bit difficult to find and even if you do find, it will be expensive Some used parts prices are: Pair of tail lights: 15k for older design and 30k for new design Pair of headlight: more than 100k without the HID unit Rear door: around 40k Fog lights: around 20k What I have done with my Hiace The Modellista body kit came with the van from Japan itself and I added the Modellista grill later on Original Toyota spoiler which came painted pearl white I tinted the fog lamps yellow with Nightbreaker bulbs in them I have also replaced the rear seats which are rotatable and come with a table as well I have done some electronic mods as well, Installed a transcend DrivePro 200  Carrozzeria tweeters with crossover and JBL component speakers with crossover(thanks to @TheFlyingFox) https://streamable.com/ujkce I was planning on installing FIAMM horns, but the JDM side of my brain took over and I went with Mitsuba Alpha https://streamable.com/nbipn Note: click on the links to access the videos My dad had the body kit removed for a short period of time and during that time I drove it through some muddy terrain. It did well.  
    • 25 comments
    • 533 views
  • alpha17

    Corolla 121 Long Term Ownership Review

    By alpha17

    Corolla 121 can be introduced as one of the most popular cars in TYPICAL SRI LANKAN vehicle market. Even being aged closed to 20 years they still sell around 3 million. So still most buyers are interested about this car, and I planned to share my 7 years of experience in this blog. I used a 2000 manufactured G Grade one which has a 1500cc engine. What it really is? Just a compact car designed for A to B transportation with good fuel economy and realiability. Driving So I’m going to start from how it is like to drive. When compared to the other cars in the same category the acceleration is really good for a 1.5L motor. The car is comparatively lighter than the 110 and Axio, so for me I’m yet to experience a better acceleration from a newer car with the same engine. It has good kick down acceleration due to 4 speed automatic transmission. For me the engine performance is better than the Civic ES5(1.5l), Mazda Axela 2004-2009, Lancer CS series and Nissan Tiida. Handling is a bit sharper than the newer Axios,Allions and Premios, but not sharp as a Honda or a Mazda. Steering is really light with a very little amount of feedback from the road. Due to the rear torsion beam setup the car is not steady in corners when compared to the older 110 and Carinas(which has independent rear suspension). But it is comparatively better in corners than the Axio.Braking is ok. Neither great nor bad. When it comes to handling Hondas and Mazdas are better. On the highways the car is steady for speeds around 100-120. After 120 there was a slight vibration(due to the resonance of the engine) but when you accelerate further around 140 the vibration goes away.  There is a noticable change in stability after  140 as you can feel the car is well planted than before. You can go all the way upto 180 without any issue ONLY IF YOUR CAR IS IN PERFECT CONDITION(TIRES, ALIGNMENT,BRAKES AND SUSPENSION). I’ve tested twice and really impressed. For day to day driving around the town the car is good due to reduced length and good ground clearance. Ground clearance is really good when compared to other cars from the same class and even with never Fit,Grace and Prius. The light steering really helps for easy manouvering. Visibility is okay, but sometimes the thick front A pillars are a bit disturbing. Also there is a problem about visibility when the dashboards is reflected from the windscreen during direct sunlight. Driving position is pretty higher like most other Toyotas and not sporty at all. Feels like you are sitting on a chair. Comfort When I bought the car it was running on its original shock absorbers. But in 2015 I changed them using Japan made KYB Excel G and it reduced the the comfort level by a considerable amount. But the car is more comfortable than Mazda Axela, Honda Fit GP1 and GP5, Civic FD3, Honda Grace and Vezel, Toyota Aqua. I can really handle potholes well, but bumps can make the car wavy due to the rear torsion beam setup. The refinement levels are really good when compared to the above mentioned set of cars and it is another field that the 121 really excels. Under lightfooted driving the engine noise can’t be heard, and road noise levels are much lower. After long journeys I felt less tired than the Gp5 and Gp1. Seats are really comfortable and are a bit firmer than 110,FB15 N16s, but not firm as the Allion Premio 260 2007-2012 F grade and Hondas and Mazdas. One thing that I noticed was the rear seat thigh support is better than the Premios and Allions. Seat space is okay of you are under 6ft. Front seats feel a bit cramped due to the dashboard design beacause I’m 6ft. I always felt that Front seats are less spacious for me when compared to the other cars, even the GP1 is better. Fuel Economy Another area that this car excels. Based on my personal experienced around the town it does only about 9-10 kmpl with full time ac on 92 octane(because I live in a really hilly area). For trips like Colombo to Kandy it car return around 14-15kmpl with full time AC. It returned well over 18kmpl when travelled through highway to matara and longer trips with less traffic with 3-4 adults on borad. Also note that driving pattern hugely affects the economy level. Slow driving will never return good fuel figures. Maintaining a speed level around 70-80 will return really good fuel figures. After the first few months I never calculated fuel figures since it is much less expensive to run. Reliability This is the car which made me a Toyota fan. It never broke down. Never even had to touch the spare tire. I had done 60,000km (93,000km to 153,000km). I only had to do the running repairs and replacements. Did the tuneups and changed the ATF fluid once for every 40,000km. Used only Toyota oils.Did the services on time and never let the “makabasses” touch the car. Changed the AC cooler. Changed one hub razor. Only the running repairs. But remember that most of the cars up for sale have been through much abuse and therefore don’t expect the same level of reliability from every car. Make sure to set aside about Rs.100,000 for the repairs when you are buying a car. Also note that some cars have manufacturing defects, eventhough the car model is proven reliable. I know a guy who sold his 2010 personally imported Allion after doing 60,000kms due to excessive repairs. That depends on your luck. Options Has a good amount of options considering it’s age. Always go for a G, G limited or a Luxel grade if you buy one. I will do another entry explaining about all the grades and options. Build Quality Interior is really good with soft touch materials on the dashboard and upper doors. All trim pieces are solidly fixed so I never experienced any “creeks”. Interior material quality is better than the 141 Axio and 2nd and 3rd gen Prius. Good when compared with the cars of the same category.  Notable Faults with the car -The steering rack is issue is famous with these Toyotas. It gives no problem except for the “duk duk” noise when travelling on bad roads. I repaired it but again after 3-4 months the noise came. Best thing is to replace it with a good reconditioned part. -As mentioned before the dashboard’s reflection on the windscreen reduces the visibility during direct sunlight(only when the sunlight falls directly on the dash) -The center console has a small compartment, just over the ash tray and the lid of it was broken from the begining and in most 121’s I’ve seen it broken. -Discoloration of the headlights is pretty fast due to the shape of the headlights Resale The car was sold over a month ago keeping me a 150,000 profit even after 7 years of usage. Remember that if the price is right you can easily sell it. I was quoting a really high price earlier and got a chance to sell it keeping 275,000 profit. But at that time I had no car to move on so gave up the idea(3 months ago). I advertised the car on a not-that-much-famous site on internet and next day morning two boys came for inspection and in the evening gave the advance. He still calls me due to satisfaction.😃 Really I loved the car throughout it’s stay with me for 7 years. Really a good car which is suited well for the Sri Lankan conditions and Typical Sri Lankan car buyer’s requirements. Make sure to look after the car well and it returns you with good reliability. Always use japanese parts and good mechanics for the repairs. Hope to do another entry to this blog about the Grades available in 121. This review is based purely on my experience and some details might differ from car to car. Please inform me if there is something inappropriate or wrong and welcome for all comments. I triend my best to provide and unbiased review.Thank you for reading👍 Cheers!!! -alpha17-
    • 14 comments
    • 445 views

Honda Fit Gp5 Quick Review

Hey guys, So just planned to do quick review after driving a specific car as it would help most of the people who seek out details about a particular model. Those entries contain details about how the car is like to drive, comfort level, build quality and interesting facts(if there are any). So I will be unable to post details about long term ownership and maintenance. This review is based on Honda Fit GP5, which is one of the most common cars in SL roads and one of my favourite cars to drive. Driving I have driven this car in hilly areas, bends, stretches and bad roads. So I will be able to give a brief idea about how it is likely to drive. The first thing you notice when you get into a Honda (specially if you are a Toyota owner) how the seating position, dash layout wraps around you. It just makes you feel like you are sitting in a driver’s car. The seating position feels much sporty and lowered. The Honda’s Earth Dreams Hybrid system (even though it has those early clutch replacements and a bit unrefined nature) is a joy to drive. The acceleration is really good even when the car is filled with 5 adults. I drove the car from Padukka to Kegalle once with 5 adults and I never felt that it was underpowered. The Fit will do 0-100kmph around 8-9seconds but I never tested that. But trust me the car has more than enough grunt for day to day driving and sudden overtakes. The steering is really light with a little bit of weight, but much sharper than a toyota. It goes where you direct without a delay. In corners it’s steady, feels much more planted and rigid. Given the size and power, the car is miles ahead in the driving area when compared with a Toyota Aqua, the main competitor. You can corner this really hard without any slips or stability issues. But the issue you’ll find with this car is the unrefined nature of the hybrid system. When you are going slowly round the town, the throttle response is a bit hideous. Sometime you really have to put your foot down to make it get going. When the engine kicks in, it’s much less of a trouble. This is existant in all the three i-DCD equipped models, Grace and Vezel also. Another thing that a felt is that due to the high amount of torque generated by the motor, the car is a bit hard to control during small manevours and specially entering into a garage with a bump. You’ll have to be a bit carefull or otherwise the car will jump forward. Around the town the car is a breeze to handle due to low turning radius and light steering. Comfort When compared with an Aqua, the ride is pretty comfortable, but not as a sedan with softer suspension setting, such as an Axio Hybrid. The seats are on the firm side and the suspension too, but for me the car feels a bit more comfortable than the Aqua. Also the seats hold you better when cornering providing good side support. One thing that you’ll notice is the amount of leg space for the both front and rear occupents when considering the size of the car. It’s really adorable. One day I drove a Fit from Kadawatha to Kegalle and after the journey I felt a bit tired which I never felt in my 121. That’s due to the stiffer suspension and a bit higher road noise levels since it’s a hatch.  Interior Quality Most of the materials used are hard plastic. But the finish makes it feel a bit more upmarket. The door panels and dash are nicely finised with silver accents and piano black insertings, so I find the car to be miles ahead when compared with Aqua, Vitz and even the 3rd Gen Prius. The car has much more options such as paddle shifters, brake hold and LCD colour multi information display. Interesting Features and facts -The climate control system is touch sensitive, which cannot be seen on far more expensive car models. It’s really cool, but sometimes a bit harder to control on the move. -During a hard braking, the signal lights alert the rear driver by doing fast pulses. -When you pass 100kmph, there is not much power left. -Just like most Honda’s the original speakers are really good. Make sure to use a good head unit or keep the original japanese one than replacing with a crappy chinses head unit. Overall the GP5 is a car that I really love to drive and would fit a small family with kids nicely. The economy is good but not good as an Aqua. But beware of the dual clutch  system and the hybrid battery when you are buying one. This review is based on my personal experiences and other people might have different opinions. If there is anything wrong or inappropriate please let me know. Also that this review is not sufficient as a deciding factor for a new car since it omly covers about the brief time period of driving experience but not MAINTENANCE AND DAILY DRIVING. Looking forward for your comments🤗Thank you for reading! Cheers! -alpha17-  

alpha17

alpha17

Corolla 121 Long Term Ownership Review

Corolla 121 can be introduced as one of the most popular cars in TYPICAL SRI LANKAN vehicle market. Even being aged closed to 20 years they still sell around 3 million. So still most buyers are interested about this car, and I planned to share my 7 years of experience in this blog. I used a 2000 manufactured G Grade one which has a 1500cc engine. What it really is? Just a compact car designed for A to B transportation with good fuel economy and realiability. Driving So I’m going to start from how it is like to drive. When compared to the other cars in the same category the acceleration is really good for a 1.5L motor. The car is comparatively lighter than the 110 and Axio, so for me I’m yet to experience a better acceleration from a newer car with the same engine. It has good kick down acceleration due to 4 speed automatic transmission. For me the engine performance is better than the Civic ES5(1.5l), Mazda Axela 2004-2009, Lancer CS series and Nissan Tiida. Handling is a bit sharper than the newer Axios,Allions and Premios, but not sharp as a Honda or a Mazda. Steering is really light with a very little amount of feedback from the road. Due to the rear torsion beam setup the car is not steady in corners when compared to the older 110 and Carinas(which has independent rear suspension). But it is comparatively better in corners than the Axio.Braking is ok. Neither great nor bad. When it comes to handling Hondas and Mazdas are better. On the highways the car is steady for speeds around 100-120. After 120 there was a slight vibration(due to the resonance of the engine) but when you accelerate further around 140 the vibration goes away.  There is a noticable change in stability after  140 as you can feel the car is well planted than before. You can go all the way upto 180 without any issue ONLY IF YOUR CAR IS IN PERFECT CONDITION(TIRES, ALIGNMENT,BRAKES AND SUSPENSION). I’ve tested twice and really impressed. For day to day driving around the town the car is good due to reduced length and good ground clearance. Ground clearance is really good when compared to other cars from the same class and even with never Fit,Grace and Prius. The light steering really helps for easy manouvering. Visibility is okay, but sometimes the thick front A pillars are a bit disturbing. Also there is a problem about visibility when the dashboards is reflected from the windscreen during direct sunlight. Driving position is pretty higher like most other Toyotas and not sporty at all. Feels like you are sitting on a chair. Comfort When I bought the car it was running on its original shock absorbers. But in 2015 I changed them using Japan made KYB Excel G and it reduced the the comfort level by a considerable amount. But the car is more comfortable than Mazda Axela, Honda Fit GP1 and GP5, Civic FD3, Honda Grace and Vezel, Toyota Aqua. I can really handle potholes well, but bumps can make the car wavy due to the rear torsion beam setup. The refinement levels are really good when compared to the above mentioned set of cars and it is another field that the 121 really excels. Under lightfooted driving the engine noise can’t be heard, and road noise levels are much lower. After long journeys I felt less tired than the Gp5 and Gp1. Seats are really comfortable and are a bit firmer than 110,FB15 N16s, but not firm as the Allion Premio 260 2007-2012 F grade and Hondas and Mazdas. One thing that I noticed was the rear seat thigh support is better than the Premios and Allions. Seat space is okay of you are under 6ft. Front seats feel a bit cramped due to the dashboard design beacause I’m 6ft. I always felt that Front seats are less spacious for me when compared to the other cars, even the GP1 is better. Fuel Economy Another area that this car excels. Based on my personal experienced around the town it does only about 9-10 kmpl with full time ac on 92 octane(because I live in a really hilly area). For trips like Colombo to Kandy it car return around 14-15kmpl with full time AC. It returned well over 18kmpl when travelled through highway to matara and longer trips with less traffic with 3-4 adults on borad. Also note that driving pattern hugely affects the economy level. Slow driving will never return good fuel figures. Maintaining a speed level around 70-80 will return really good fuel figures. After the first few months I never calculated fuel figures since it is much less expensive to run. Reliability This is the car which made me a Toyota fan. It never broke down. Never even had to touch the spare tire. I had done 60,000km (93,000km to 153,000km). I only had to do the running repairs and replacements. Did the tuneups and changed the ATF fluid once for every 40,000km. Used only Toyota oils.Did the services on time and never let the “makabasses” touch the car. Changed the AC cooler. Changed one hub razor. Only the running repairs. But remember that most of the cars up for sale have been through much abuse and therefore don’t expect the same level of reliability from every car. Make sure to set aside about Rs.100,000 for the repairs when you are buying a car. Also note that some cars have manufacturing defects, eventhough the car model is proven reliable. I know a guy who sold his 2010 personally imported Allion after doing 60,000kms due to excessive repairs. That depends on your luck. Options Has a good amount of options considering it’s age. Always go for a G, G limited or a Luxel grade if you buy one. I will do another entry explaining about all the grades and options. Build Quality Interior is really good with soft touch materials on the dashboard and upper doors. All trim pieces are solidly fixed so I never experienced any “creeks”. Interior material quality is better than the 141 Axio and 2nd and 3rd gen Prius. Good when compared with the cars of the same category.  Notable Faults with the car -The steering rack is issue is famous with these Toyotas. It gives no problem except for the “duk duk” noise when travelling on bad roads. I repaired it but again after 3-4 months the noise came. Best thing is to replace it with a good reconditioned part. -As mentioned before the dashboard’s reflection on the windscreen reduces the visibility during direct sunlight(only when the sunlight falls directly on the dash) -The center console has a small compartment, just over the ash tray and the lid of it was broken from the begining and in most 121’s I’ve seen it broken. -Discoloration of the headlights is pretty fast due to the shape of the headlights Resale The car was sold over a month ago keeping me a 150,000 profit even after 7 years of usage. Remember that if the price is right you can easily sell it. I was quoting a really high price earlier and got a chance to sell it keeping 275,000 profit. But at that time I had no car to move on so gave up the idea(3 months ago). I advertised the car on a not-that-much-famous site on internet and next day morning two boys came for inspection and in the evening gave the advance. He still calls me due to satisfaction.😃 Really I loved the car throughout it’s stay with me for 7 years. Really a good car which is suited well for the Sri Lankan conditions and Typical Sri Lankan car buyer’s requirements. Make sure to look after the car well and it returns you with good reliability. Always use japanese parts and good mechanics for the repairs. Hope to do another entry to this blog about the Grades available in 121. This review is based purely on my experience and some details might differ from car to car. Please inform me if there is something inappropriate or wrong and welcome for all comments. I triend my best to provide and unbiased review.Thank you for reading👍 Cheers!!! -alpha17-

alpha17

alpha17

Journey With The Hiace

It's been little more than 4 years with my Hiace and it has done around 76,000kms so I thought its time I give you guys an update on it. Let me start the blog with the basics,  Mine is a Toyota Hiace KDH206, this variant of Hiace is fitted with a 1KD-FTV turbo engine with an all wheel drive system. The AWD system in the KDH series is pretty much full time, it runs on all four wheels normally and if any of the wheels experience a slippage, the vehicle stops sending power to that specific wheel.
There is a noticeable difference between the AWD variant(KDH206) and RWD variant(KDH201). The KDH206 is around 100kg heavier and you could feel that through the steering when you drive one. In addition, the KDH206 feels far more planted at higher speeds and around corners than the RWD variant. However the downside is that the full time AWD system drinks bit more fuel than RWD version.  Cost of Maintenance In short the Hiace is not cheap run, I get fuel economy of around 6km/l in kandy and around 9-10km/l outstation, the RWD KDH201 would return around another extra 2km more per litre. Hiace is originally fitted with 195/80R15 8ply tyres and they cost around 22-23.5K per tyre from brands like Continental or Pirelli, while Maxxis tyre could be found for around 16k.
The Hiace requires 0W-30 oil and a regular service which needs to be carried out every 5000km costs around 10K using Toyota oil, I was using Toyota oil filter as well, but now I have switched to VIC.
ATF oil must be changed around every 40k kms, I change air filter and cabin filter every year. 
It requires super diesel and this is an absolute must, if you regularly pump auto diesel you will pay more in repairs than what you saved by pumping auto diesel. The most likely issues you would get from pumping auto diesel are DPF, which costs around 70-80k to replace and injectors, which would set you back around 500k for all four. So far I had to change only a bush which costed around 50rs, apart from that I have not had any repairs. Performance The Hiace pulls pretty well for a vehicle which weighs 2 tonnes, the 1KD-FTV with a variable nozzle turbo produces 100kw at 3400RPM and 300nm of torque at 1200-3200rpm and it is connected to a 4 speed conventional automatic gearbox. Overtaking other vehicles with Hiace is pretty easy, you just have to put your foot down, the turbo will come to life and you would be gone. It is always on the right gear, there's no unnecessary downshifts or up shifts, the gearing ratios are perfectly synced with the power band of the engine although it is only a 4 speed gearbox in a world of 6 and 7 speed gearboxes.
The Hiace properly comes to life on hill climbs with the help of low end power and variable nozzle turbo.
Handling is fairly good for a van, it handles better than large SUVs. The KDH series has much less body roll compared to the previous LH series, but it isn't great as handling of a car. I notice the difference in handling when I drive the Hiace after driving our Bluebird which has front and rear independent suspension. Comfort It doesn't handle large potholes and bumps as good as a car, but it does manage to soften small potholes pretty well. The diesel engine noise is evident compared to a hybrid or petrol vehicle but the noise reduces when the vehicle gets to the third gear or at around 70+ km/h speed. The A/C is epic on the Hiace, it is one of the best cooling A/C I have come across, I rarely have to set the A/C temperature below 26 degree Celsius on auto mode and that is without the dual A/C. 
There is plenty of space inside, 7 or 8 people could travel on long journeys with their legs stretched out and not crammed. The second row seat is the best place to be in, you get the dual A/C right in front of you, it is acoustic sweet spot and minimal sunlight enters the cabin. Practicality It is quite a practical vehicle if you are using it occasionally or for long journeys as it can seat 8 comfortably yet carry plenty of luggage(you could fit around 4-5 large travelling bag placed horizontally), it has got atleast double the amount of luggage space compared to a Noah/Esquire. However it is bit of waste of money if you are using it on daily basis as fuel bills are gone be crazy and parking these are not that easy within city limits. In addition, maneuvering these around narrow roads requires some skills especially roads with tight bends. Second hand value and parts Selling a KDH isn't difficult at all, if you maintain them right there will always be people willing it to buy it from you. There are plenty of body parts available but 1KD engine parts are bit difficult to find and even if you do find, it will be expensive Some used parts prices are: Pair of tail lights: 15k for older design and 30k for new design Pair of headlight: more than 100k without the HID unit Rear door: around 40k Fog lights: around 20k What I have done with my Hiace The Modellista body kit came with the van from Japan itself and I added the Modellista grill later on Original Toyota spoiler which came painted pearl white I tinted the fog lamps yellow with Nightbreaker bulbs in them I have also replaced the rear seats which are rotatable and come with a table as well I have done some electronic mods as well, Installed a transcend DrivePro 200  Carrozzeria tweeters with crossover and JBL component speakers with crossover(thanks to @TheFlyingFox) https://streamable.com/ujkce I was planning on installing FIAMM horns, but the JDM side of my brain took over and I went with Mitsuba Alpha https://streamable.com/nbipn Note: click on the links to access the videos My dad had the body kit removed for a short period of time and during that time I drove it through some muddy terrain. It did well.  

Magnum

Magnum

[Civic 2018] A look at the interior

The first thing that struck me when i sat down to drive this for the first time was the really low seating position - it did not take a lot of getting used to though. The height is of course adjustable and provides a much comfier driving position.  The passengers seat on the other hand though cannot be height adjusted. The rear seats too don't have the fabled "magic seats" functionality where you can fold up the seats to increase space in the rear - but you can fold the seats down to create a humongous amount of boot space - I do not quite remember the exact capacity but it's quite a lot. Due to the shape of the roof , while the rear seats are quite comfortable and have a decent amount of space for your legs you might feel a bit of head room is missing. But it won't really translate into a problem - unless you are from Marhsall Eriksen's family .  The SR grade (and the SE) for that matter comes with fabric seats  - and  the interior is black by default (for all grades) . So no "Baij Interiyal" advertisements on the classifieds for this model then.  The materials for the seats are quite "scruffy" and the interior is a dust magnet. The material used on the seats particularly are prone to attract a lot of dust and small particles of whatnot.      There are speakers on all four doors - something I noticed in other contemporary Hondas as well - the doors also have the same dust-attractive upholstery.   I told you there's only a repair kit - but the good news is there is a bit of space in the rear that can double up as storage space or a spare wheel well - so if you're paranoid about having only a repair kit, you can easily carry around a spare      The cockpit is contemporary Honda fare. The steering wheel itself is quite plush and has a nice feel to it - though the steering itself is light which I will talk about when i have an entry regarding handling. The usual controls are all there including the cruise control buttons and beneath the wheel you can find the paddle shifters (again paddle shifters + CVT is something i would talk about later) The control for the lane keep assistant is also in the steering wheel.    Mind you the Wiper control stalk is on the right and the headlight control stalk is on the left  - takes a bit of getting used to if you've previously driven JDM's only. The "Auto" mode in the Wiper means that it will enable the rain sensing wipers and depending on the amount of rain you get the speed will adjust as well. Nice touch but i personally feel it's a bit too dramatic. If i remember correctly the SE grade does not have rain sensing wipers.  This being the SR grade you do not get a push start you need a key - the Push start button is there only on the EX trim.        With the honda sensing package you get some features like proximity alerts, automatic breaking and lane departure warning. These can be turned on and off and the switches are located near the ignition on the right hand side along with the headlamp leveling switch.  The shifter console includes the parking brake (yes there's no separate lever for that), the brake hold button (so your foot can be taken off the brake in for example color lights) there is also a button to toggle the eco-mode as well as to turn on and off auto-braking. Between these two buttons you would find the adaptive damper  button on an EX-trim car.     There cubby hole is quite small and disappointing given the fact that this is not an alto- and there are no individual cup holders etc - there is a circular holder that can easily accommodate a bottle in the storage area below the slide-able arm rest. This storage area also has a usb port that can be used with the infotainment system. However it has to be said both the usb outlets in front are not in the most accessible places. The other usb slot is practically invisible and hidden by the armrest console along with the HDMI port and  Next to that is the 12V circular power outlet. Mind you there is another 12 V power outlet in the boot as well - handy when it comes to plug in your car vacuum.  There is also dual zone climate control - other than the dedicated climate control panel fan speed etc can be set via the touch screen.   

matroska

matroska

[Civic 2018]First Impressions and the basics

Here's  a write up on my Daily Driver - the new Civic 1 Litre Turbo - I've so far done just a bit over 1500 Km's and  since the engine was new didn't really push it to the max and I have not yet been able to do a really long trip  or a drive uphill to  BUT I will continue to update the blog based  on the experiences as well as services etc.  For a start I will touch the basics as well as all the cosmetic stuff and then get into the overall driving experience and later on the services etc. There is also a dedicated thread in the forum that is quite informative. But I hope this blog will also prove useful to someone.  First of all the basics.... In a nutshell the 2017 Civic is the 10th generation in the line up. The particular model I have, and is getting popular in SL  goes under the model code FK6 and has a P10A2 engine which has a measly 988cc but is turbocharged.
The car is made in the UK (at Honda's Swindon Plant). I have heard that the agents now bring it down as well. (6.2M for the SR) 
There are 3 grades for the 1L turbocharged civic. SE, SR and the EX.  The SE is the most basic model with the EX being the highest (the Tech pack is a further extension of the EX) There is roughly a 5,000 GBP (~ 1 Mil LKR) price difference between the SE and the EX. The SR on the other hand sits comfortably in the middle - it does not have stuff like adaptive damper system that comes on the EX. The Honda UK website lists down the differences of each grade under a section called 'Build your Honda' or something. If you're interested do have a look.  There are 7 colors available and the Rallye Red is the standard . Every other color will cost around 500 GBP more . There is also the  "Orange Line Pack" - which is basically an accessory kit that adds a touch of orange into everything - I've seen a few such cars in car sales in SL. Though I initially contemplated Sonic Grey, ended up with a Polished Metal Metallic specimen.  With the 2017 Budget a new tax structure was introduced and under the engine capacity based taxation  you'd be paying 17.5 m in taxes  (1,754,976 LKR  to be precise) for a brand new car with reasonable creature comforts and a bunch of bells and whistles which costs something between 4-5 mill based on the grade ( see above )   First Impressions  For me the new  Civic hatch  looks like someone started designing and spent too much time  doing a good job with the front and then ran out of time to design the posterior and hastily put an end to it. This explains the rather weird looking behind. The Sedan version I have to admit looks better. There's also waay too much plastic in the rear so much so that it looks like a joint venture between Honda and Arpico.  There's a bit of aggressive styling at the front. The car is quite wide and it has a solid ground hugging look to it.  As for the supposed vents you see at the front and the back - well those are fake. They're simply pieces of plastic made to look like vents.  And yes it does have fog lights. I like the factory fitted black 17" alloys. Note the SE comes with 16" Alloys as opposed to the 17" found in the SR.  Being a brand new car it came with a humongous bible-like user manual (thankfully in English) - along with the wheel lock nut as well as the tool kit and the tire  repair kit (glue and the inflator which by now we are used to)  If any of you intend to buy one from a regular car sale make sure they give you  your wheel lock nut.     

matroska

matroska

Project R - front end

Finally. At long last, the ITR sedan conversion is done!! Here she is in all her glory. More glam pics in the upcoming months!  Few niggles I’m trying to fix. The front end didn’t come with fender liners/mudguards. Sourced those from uk.  Also I was using a lengthened shifter linkage from an ek3 with a d series box. Apparently that’s why shifting into reverse and 2nd are difficult. Waiting on a proper ITR shifter linkage from the UK as well. Along with the stock dual bend shifter. 

Komisiripala

Komisiripala

Project R - Front end

And so, finally, I found the means to finish what I started and swap the front end. As I’ve explained before, the E-DB8 Type R sedan never came with the UKDM 1998-2001 face. It was only with the DC2 face. As much as I think the bud eye is eccentric and beautiful, it is dated, and I have a mental disorder. So yeah.  I’ve  had the front end with me for over an year. Picked up from Dubai, the panels are all Aluminium. So much lighter than the metal ones I have now! Project ongoing at platinum. Will update more once paint is done...    

Komisiripala

Komisiripala

Project R - March 2018 - Katukurunda Drags

finally. finally i did it. i put this car on the map. nothing like some silverware in the display case to prove a point!  not gonna say much. just this: 1st runner up, True Street Honda NA up to 2000cc.  i'll let the pictures speak for themselves. that moment i got randika at the launch. happiest quarter second of my life!  a few tweaks in the gearbox maybe for next time?   i've done a few updates for this race. installed the Exedy stage 1 clutch, TODA Spec C cams, tuned, and installed the Tegiwa Powerchamber intake, with a cold air partition as well. the partition was locally made by Platinum, and completely seals with the hood when closed, so that air is directed into it from under the car. there's no loss of power during daytime heat, as demonstrated!  also, i had some gremlins during the runs. first qualifier, my AC and alternator belts snapped. luckily i had a world class pit crew on hand, so they went to kalutara and brought back the belts from the only open spare parts shop "bimsara motors" (hence the hastily photoshopped "thanks to bimsara aiyya" sticker LOL). the platinum boys fixed it up on site.  next, with the first qualifier, my throttle cable snapped after i defeated the s2000. guess i was a little too ecstatic about victory. that was fixed with cable ties. the OEM honda type R throttle cable will reach @The Don in UK soon.  also the new clutch wasn't run in well enough, and i was missing second gear. was a nightmare. reverting back to the stock gear lever, instead of the skunk2 short shifter, as per advise from almost all the pro drivers. luckily found the ITR/CTR dual bend stock shifter also from the UK, and yes, Don's the man to bring that too.  all in all, it was the most fun i had my entire life, i was thrilled beyond words to have won anything! i built a racecar AND I WON!     

Komisiripala

Komisiripala

Project R - Interior update 29-01-18

What does one do when there’s nothing left to do? The interior!  Picked up a beauty of a steering wheel from Dubai, since I last destroyed mine while trying to clean it. Plan is to send the old one to the UK for reupholstery.  And the floor mats mats off of the OEM ITR sedan. These are mint!! 

Komisiripala

Komisiripala

Project R - December 2017 - Katukurunda Drags

one of the greatest joys of having a car that actually runs and doesn't sit in the garage more often than it does at home, is that i can actually leather it now and then. this is one thing i am eternally grateful to PAS and Sabry for: for coming through with what they promised and building a car to last. it was on his insistence that i entered the drags.  i stood no chance fromm the get go. i was in the 1800cc-2500cc NA class, and i was up against 5 other competitors who brought drag prepped monsters carried there on trailers. while i drove my daily whip to the track, raced, and drove back. but with a qualifying time in the 15s range, with the winner running 12s, i'm quite pleased!  i was loaned a pair of semi slicks for the race. this is why i love this community. the love, people. the love!   our resident rice police @VVTi and @Bugatti both took part in the one make BMW event, and i was sharing their tent space, feeling much like the Geisha to a platoon of SS soldiers...       ^^this, by far, is my favourite shot. this is going on a wall somewhere. Built. Driven. Inspired.    with Sacha Peiris in his Babyzilla     here's the two time trials:       and here's the qualifier. i was booted out after this. but hey, i'll be back!      this was easily the most fun day of my entire life. to actually have a car that could run a race, and then go home in, to me, was the real victory. and while i sat there, on the start line, with the throttle blipping on launch control, i realized i didn't even have to run the race. i'd already won. the result was immaterial!  <-- this was how the other 5 cars went home. mine is still proudly daily driven. all i did was remove the stickers.         

Komisiripala

Komisiripala

Project R - Future Plans

this is the car up to now, and as with any project, its never ever over! i do have a few more plans. some of these are already in the pipeline, whilst others are mere pipe dreams.  ENGINE after running the December 2017 drags, i was sorely tempted to splurge on more power. what's the point of having a car that was built to take it and then not give it the best tools with which to do so? sabry advised on TODA Spec C camshafts, which he insists have better power outputs than even Brian Crower or Skunk2. and thus, with a credit card crunching push of a fateful button, these arrived:   i also needed to work on the stock intake, as it was restrictive. the aluminium piping i had sounded very harsh, abck in 2013. but that was also at a time where the car wasnt' tuned. after much research, decided to go for a Tegiwa powerchamber kevlar intake. this is also known as the "whale penis" intake. for obvious reasons. my whale must clearly be oriental, as the intake is shortened due to the presence of the ABS distributor.    SUSPENSION nothing major to change here. maybe an EDFC controller for the coilovers, so i can change the dampening settings on the fly from within the vehicle. if and when the GAB springs live out their useful life i will opt for a better softer coilvoer suspension, such as maybe Tein's new line.    INTERIOR the steering wheel needs a reupholstering after i quite judiciously once cleaned fungus off of it with undiluted dettol. the leather came off like the scabs of a sore. i still beat myself up for that. aparaade. this involves sending the wheel to the UK as none of the local upholsterers accepted the job. they can do it, but not back to OEM spec. so i first need to find a spare steering wheel.  i've also got my sights set on a set of OEM red EK9 recaro buckets. nothing wrong with the SSCUS ones, but hell there's nothing like recaro. someday, if i have the money and find the perfect set.    EXTERIOR the biggest change to happen here is the JDM front end. the E-DB8 sedan was never made with the UKDM facelift front end. not off the factory. and this was what i sourced last from dubai as i got a good deal on a front end conversion, with a set of ITR headlamps (which have a black housing and plastic lenses, as opposed to the other trim DC2's which have a clear housing and glass lenses.) i also got the ITR lower lip in rubber imported via kapruka. took a huge risk with them 4 years after they lost my wilwood brakes. took three months but this time they delivered. phew!  the conversion is here but i cna't find the time or the money to do it yet. so i've shelved it for a later date. for the moment i'm still in love with the UKDM face and have no heart to rip it off.  i might also opt for an OEM spoiler if i find one.      beyond this i haven't really given it any thought. i have no plans of parting with this car, so who knows? maybe a turbo? big brake kit? supercharger? let's see where it goes. for the moment its singing its song, and i'm listening! 

Komisiripala

Komisiripala

 

Project R - Redux - from 2014 to 2018: EXTERIOR

a few changes on the exterior were made. the most notable of which was the front fender. initially i was under the impression that the center grille and the bumper were two seperate pieces. they were not. its one large plastic mould. and my front grille was unceremoniously removed by a previous bodywork specialist and replaced with chicken mesh, which i have documented removing very early on in 2013. i had to make an impromptu crucifix grille in the meantime but i was NOT happy with the looks of that at all.    eventually, with great difficulty, i found a nearly mint front bumper and lip from a dismantled ITR coupe, and had it shipped over. my god, the difference... ^^ the lights too were new. imported from an ITR in the UK, and cleaned before fitting. they look mint. the car looks breathtaking in these streettuner pics.  the fogs had no place with the lip in situ, so they had to go. i didnt' remove the wiring or the switch on the handbrake console, as i had a feeling it'll come in handy someday.  the other major change was the spoiler. initially i very proudly had a replica of an ITR spoiler made of fiberglass and stuck it on:   but then, i grew up. and as you get older, understatement makes more sense. it was time to bury the boyracer in me, so i decided to remove the spoiler. it was also very heavy on the bootlid, and as it wasn't OEM and made of FRP, it began to bother me. i was all about having a car with more horses than the mounted police and less fiber than your morning meal, so the fake spoiler had to go.  it was replaced with a rubber lip, which to me is quite a subtle statement. i lau it !   a few other small changes were made. i removed all decals except for the ones on the door. and now, it was too cheesy and mainstream to call this a type R.  so this was removed.  and replaced with this: not the clearest shot, but you get the idea.   no other major aesthetic changes were made, but some major plans are afoot. i will elaborate later.  the side mirrors were repaired as well, as one by one both retracting motors gave out. i bought two dual power civic mirrors and harvested the motors for the fix. they both fold perfectly now. tis these little things that turn me on. 

Komisiripala

Komisiripala

 

Project R - Redux - from 2014 to 2018: EXHAUST

The exhaust also underwent significant changes over the last few years. i did a few experiments with it over time and eventually came across what i believe to be the best solution, given the requirement for a little back pressure, and the stringent as well as arcane local muffler regulations enforced by the men in khaki.  i initially had an APEXi world sport 2 muffler mounted, and that went away when @Supra_Natural and i exchanged cars for a weekend and he was stopped by the cinnamon gardens police. i was given 48 hours to put a "beat ekak nethi" barrell ekak and come back.  so i borrowed a stock EK3 barrel for some time and actually enjoyed the peace and quiet. during this time, i sourced an OEM ITR muffler, the gediya of which looked identical to any other OEM honda muffler, but was factory built as a low restriction exhaust. it gave a sweet note on high revs but was still quite restrictive.  the cutaway schematic below shows the subtle changes within the ITR muffler which differentiates it from the GS-R muffler:   of course this was still too restrictive for me, so i decided to experiment a little, and being true to my Darwin award winning self, decided then that the catalyic convertor was the issue and...broke it. breaking the cat was a disastrous idea. yes the car revved up faster and i lost a bit of the restriction at low rpm, BUT, the sound. oh dear lawd the blood curdling caterwaul. it sounded like the dying moans of a hundred sodomized polecats. it was dreadful.  having swiftly learnt my lesson, i then replaced the cat with an EG-6 SiR cat from a race spec EG-6 exhaust. as it can be clearly seen its a lot less restrictive and smaller than mine. <-- this is the spec GS-R cat. above is the EG-6 SiR II cat     later on, after sabry's rebuild, on his recommendation, i let sacha fetter with the piping, and got a full catback custom 2.5" exhaust system done by WEPR. this was mated to the ITR muffler until i had the final piece of the puzzle in hand, which was... the Mugen Twin Loop!    this was a lucky find. i was shipping some other parts from Dubai (which i'll get to in the FUTURE PLANS entry) and the shipment got delayed because the crate which was made was too small. it took another week to make another crate, and in that time, some poor chap in dubai met with a grisly accident which completely totalled his built civic. it was a front end collision, and the car was wrecked. my parts hoarder friend salvaged this from the wreckage threw it into the shipment the day before it left for colombo!  i installed it and it was the bomb. quiet on idle, screamer in VTEC and so smooth. nothing quite compared to it. the joy was short lived, sadly, as i noticed the innards slowly coming out of the muffler and blocking the tailpipe. this was causing a tinny sound and a severe exhaust flow restriction. at one point i just went at it with a tyre iron and removed whatever steel wool and debris that came out. of course afterwards it started sounding like a proper tin can. it was unbearable.   many exhaust places refused to even touch it. my garage in attidiya was kind enough to at least open it up, as one way or the other it was done. this is what it looked like: the inner workings were completely destroyed. i don't understand the logic of a company like mugen who makes such a good exhaust out of mild steel. they charge a premium for it when you spec the car with it, but it will only last you 5-6 years.  this is what it should look like:   after many palaces still refused to repair it, i had to finally goad Sacha into taking on the challenge. he ended up replicating the entire muffler, and the only piece remaining which he used from the old one was the tip! his finished product:   it now functions perfectly, is an utter joy to listen to, and is made completely of stainless steel, with a lifetime WEPR warranty. as far as exhaust tech is concerned, the mic has been dropped.   i will upload a video of the exhaust note and variations when i get the chance.  i also sourced the original integra brochure, which documents the 4 door sedan, and the MUGEN Integra add-on leaflet, which clearly shows the 4:1 header and twin loop as optional extras which can be specced from the factory while ordering the car. i have shown this to the cops twice, and so far they have accepted that its OEM. both times i was pulled over while idling and it was not for the exuast note. just simple dickery.     

Komisiripala

Komisiripala

 

Project R - Redux - from 2014 to 2018: ENGINE

i will summarise what the Teg has been through from 2014 to 2018, in the next few blog posts.  ENGINE The car went through 3 additional rebuilds since the first before things start working aright. indika was not the man to have done this with, as he had no experience with B series hondas, and my vision was lost on him. i was severely restricted by the budget of my dreams so i couldn't afford any better. having said that, i have spent 3 times more doing cheap repairs 4 times over than i have spent doing it right, once, with sabry at PAS.  the reason my Brian Crower cams were not producing power was that i had not raised the compression adequately in my cylinders. as i was unaware of this, i was running stock compression, which was 10.8:1, which is the lowest compression honda designed for the B series: the GS-R auto. the BC website quite bluntly states that one has to have at least a CR of 12:1 for their cams to work. in this light i was experiencing something like "anti-VTEC" where the normal lobes created oodles of power and when the wild lobes are engaged the car bogs down due to compression and fuelling inadequacies.  on this discovery, and being at a bad place personally at the time, i gave up on the BC cams, thinking i have reached the end of my limits with the Teg and i will not be able to complete this. for the first time in my life, i compensated. i backed out. i sold the cams to Rumesh Rajakulendran, who was building his BabyMilo EK9 racecar, and reverted to my auto GSR cams. it was a very low point to have seen those cams go. worse yet, Ruma was thrashing every event he entered and winning by a country mile. he never forgot to acknowledge me and the cams.  to add to this, a few months beyond this incident, sabry and i were trying to tune it, and the engine broke. the bearings had given way. and so began... 1. the second rebuild i have her this time to a local garage, Shafiq's, in attidiya. he had a lot of experience i was told with B series hondas, and he seemed to know what he was doing. shafiq then pulled everything apart to find out that one of my chambers is not in line with the others. this required an overbore to remove the discrepancy, and bigger pistons. at this juncture Ashan Silva was kind enough to gift me a set of P72 +25bore Civic Type R pistons, which i used in the rebuild. the bearing failure had also cut the crank, so i had to machine the crank as well.  sadly this rebuild lasted  the 2000km break in time, and the bearings gave way again while i was on the highway to galle, and it was back to shafiq's for...   2. the third rebuild. the bore was ok now, but the crank had got cut again, and i was given the choice of machining it yet again, and then limping around, as it would not last many trips to 9000+ rpm, or buy a new crank. a crank from honda was around 80,000, while an entire B20B non VTEC CRV engine in toto was 55,000. the choice was obvious. so we harvested the crank from that engine and did the third rebuild.  at this point i did some research and came to the conclusion that it was not a good idea to mix and match parts, such as take a b20 crank, pair it with b18 pistons and con rods, and then use a b18 head, as the measurements are all different. the garage thought naught of this and then went ahead.  and again, i did the 2000km break in, and was on the dyno tuning it with sabry. the second power run produced 189whp and 280Nm of torque. and then the bearings broke. the engine seized. and this it was time again for *-drum roll please-*   3. THE FOURTH REBUILD!! i was out of money, out of patience, at my wits end. my dream had fallen apart. i cannot adequately communicate to you the dejection i felt when this broke for the third time. my heart just froze over and i was beyond emotion. this was it. Project R had come to its end. with a son on the way and a house planned to be built, i was drained. this was my strength, my love and my life and it has just broken down for what i thought was the last time.  i needed space. time. to think this through.  one thing was for sure, i was done giving the car to half baked garages. this needed a pro. i wanted this fixed. so i sent her to Platinum as i wanted Sabry to repair it. someday. he removed the engine and i brought the body home. where it went up on jack stands and stayed that way until i could either afford a rebuild, or i made up my mind to sell her for parts and keep the Book.  she stayed this way for 8 months.  during which time i removed the tyres, and stored them in my room, and every sunday i would head out, and wash her, clean the interior and apply siddhalepa on the rexin surfaces to keep away fungus. this was my ritual once a week for 8 months. until such time i could find the means to afford a rebuild, and sabry could bring the parts down.    the day finally did arrive, and boy did sabry pull out a corker. he had plans. big plans. he wanted to do right by me what numerous other people couldn't, and he made this his pet project. we decided to use the block from the b20 engine i had, as my b18 block was fried. and anyhow a b20 would have better lower end torque and thus be an easier daily driver. also my head was perfect. there was no signs of valve or spring wear and it was functioning normally. i had during this time installed a set of ITR camshafts also, and we thought we'd leave that just as it is.  so the B20 block was harvested and bored to 2100cc.  everything else was brand new. we ordered... 1. An Eagle crankshafft. aluminium. rated for 1500whp, 2. Wiseco pistons and connecting rods. custom made for my b20 block/b18autoGSR head, to produce a CR of 13.0:1.  3. a block guard was installed as the chambers of the b20 are larger, and thus weaker than the b18. the b20 had a redline of 7200rpm. we were pushing the 10,000 limiter again. so a block guard is necessary to prevent the chambers from warping.  4. ACL bearings 5. 510cc EVO 4 injectors, with impedance reset to match the requirement 6. AEM 320LPH high flow fuel pump, with a fuel pressure regulator.  sabry took about three weeks for the work, and she was out again in all her glory. she was built with massive tolerances, where, would i ever need to scratch that itch, a set of aftermarket cams or even boost upto 0.8 bar would be easily handled. she was built to last.  i do have to appreciate the effort Sabry put into this, as at one point he had made a mistake on the height of the connecting rods, and he sent them back to wiseco to get down the right ones wiseco refused to refund as the mistake was not theirs. sabry bought a new set for the right measurement out of his own pocket.    i've switched over to LiquiMOLY MOS2 10w-40 oil, and it has been smooth sailing so far. it is only now, that Project R has truly come alive. 

Komisiripala

Komisiripala

 

Project R - Redux - from 2014 to 2018: INTERIOR

the interior underwent a few subtle changes during this period.  the black paint started to rub off of the original tan interior after a few years and this started bugging me quite a bit. added to this was the fact that the ITR coupe and sedan had doors which were lighter than the LS/GS/GSR trim doors. even the glasses were thinner to save weight. after much hunting, i managed to source an original black dashboard from a dismantled car in the UK, and had it shipped over.  the painted dash had a grainy lacklustre finish to it, which was rather irksome. i knew it was painted, and in my mind it looked painted.  the OEM black tho, looked just perfect when polished. also seen in the below photo is the interior trim of the ITR sedan door. i sourced the doors from a dismantled car in malaysia.    the center of attraction of course are the 3 52mm Defi Advance gauges mounted on the winsdscreen. these have quite a story behind them. original Defi gauges are rare and expensive. and the local market is flooded with so many knockoffs that i really didn't want a local supplier to get me a fake set. after much hunting i found these online on Yahoo Japan. they were off of an Evo7. the bidding ended at nearly 50,000 Yen, and the auction was set to end on a day i would be at the Motorshow representing LIMITLESS. not wanting to lose such a pristine set, i asked for help from our fellow autolankan, @Muditha420. i handed over my login details, and he religiously watched the auction and bid on my behalf, winning this in the last split second, outbidding over a dozen other bidders. i don't think even i would have had the fortitude to see this through! i am eternally grateful! i've added these for good reason. firstly, the gauge on the extreme right shows the water temperature. optimal temp is 90C. the corresponds with the water temp gauge in the car. the middle gauge indicates oil temperature. this is a more important reading, as the oil takes longer to heat up, and the engine should not be overrevved until the oil is at optimum temp, in order to prevent bearing failure. as the water temp rises much faster, the car's temp gauge is NOT a reliable indicator of when you can trample it.  the gauge on the extreme left is the oil pressure gauge. this would indicate a drop in oil pressure in the case of an oil leak.  of course apart from all this the coolest thing about them is the Blood Horsepower level boost you get when you crank the ignition and see them do their diagnostic sweep. #andenawa!  apart from these i've also made use of the two dummy switch deletes on either side of the indicator stalks to install 45mm Proposrt gauges, indicating fuel pressure and stoichiometry. for some reason the stoich gauge never worked from day one. i suspect its not getting the right input parameters. i will fix it. eventually. its not really a concern for now.  both gauges are seen through the steering in this shot. left is fuel pressure and right is stoichiometry i've gotten rid of the unsightly rubber bucket carpets and opted for the black nylon wool 3M custom cut mats. they look a whole lot classier. eventually hoping to source the OEM ITR sedan carpet set from japan.  last but not least, the piece-de-resistance: with great difficulty and much research, i found the OEM head unit that came as spec for the integra. sadly the Type R version is over 400$, and it only has faux carbon fiber printed on the surface, and "type r" written on it. this is off a non R, but its the same thing. only goes up to 90FM, but since im a fan of Lite and EFM, it matters not. quite a cool little device tho. i love the motorised sliding face!    apart from this i've also gone for a full tint on all glass surfaces with 3M's 90% clear UV tint. it cost a packet, but the tint itself is not visible and it works well to cut the radiant and UV heat from the sun. as this car has a large glass bubble due to the extreme rake of the rear windshield, the greenhouse effect is quite pronounced when parked in the sun for even a short while. the 3M tint really does deliver what it promises. i can leave this parked in the hot sun the whole day and the cabin is bearable when entered. also the AC cuts off so much faster and the cabin retains the cold for a lot longer. the gas mileage has improved by almost 2kmpl in traffic. i kid you not. comes highly recommended.  another interesting piece of kit i managed to source were the aluminium pedal set. this came as an option on the 2001 Type Rx, which was the last hurrah of the DC2, before it was discontinued. the Type Rx had dual airbags, a factory AC (AC was deleted in the first gen ITR's and later given as a factory option) dual power mirrors, plusher carpets, and the aluminium pedals. it was more a cosmetic upgrade. it also was the rarest of the integras! got hold of a pedal, and two pedal covers yahoo japan, and on they went. this was after seeing the Legacy B4 aluminium pedals on @Muditha420's car. mine were sadly nearly thrice as expensive as his :-/ 

Komisiripala

Komisiripala

 

Project R - Redux - from 2014 to 2018: SUSPENSION

this was where a lot of changes happened as well. nothing against ultra racing, but i did go into yoda levels of Zen with Type R lore whithin those 8 months of hibernation. in which i fell in love with the sleek aluminium struts made by honda itself. in his time i also found out that he Type R sedan had a production run of 1400 cars, all made for the japanese market. and within that, for the 1998-1999 model years, there was a very limited production of an OEM rear tower strut bar. it was the same as the front, with a specialized bracket. for some reason this option was discontinued in later models.  so one by one the Ultra Racing braces came off and were sold to capable hands. i replaced them with the clean and simple OEM aluminium from tower strut.  the rear tower strut was not so easy to come by. since i couldn't find one in japanese auctions, i then sourced another front tower strut and got a set of custom brackets from Tegiwa motorsports in japan. the only aftermarket company to make them. also in true Type R minimalistic style i stripped the boot of all the trim and gave it a few coats of spatter paint, for that on-a-diet look.  another little gem was the spare wheel. i had a 4x100PCD spare which mind you didn't clear my GSR calipers. anyways it was redundant with the 5x 114.4 setup so i went about hunting for a donut spare. lo and behold, its the same PCD as the nissan leaf, and since that doesn't come with a spare, suddenly 5 lug spares were the bees knees. everyone wanted one. had to bargain one down to 17,000 from 22,000 at JJ lanka, which was the cheapest i could find.  the rear also got some custom work done. i removed the Ultra racing rear member brace, and replaced that with: 1. aftermarket lightweight rear lower control arms 2. sickspeed rear member brace 3. Beaks rear lower tie bar.  mostly since it looks so badass for someone tailing me! just showing off... poddak     the coilovers remain the same, however. they're still good to do and i run the a few clicks north of the softest dampening settings. i have, over time, replaced all the bushings with polyurenthane, and now the camber and toe settings front and rear are perfect. she does creak, and she is stiff, especially the rear, since the trailing arm is now more or less stationary! but hey, id rather that that replace tyres every 6 months...

Komisiripala

Komisiripala

 

Project R - Redux - from 2014 to 2018: GEARBOX

possibly the only bit of the car that largely stayed the same during this period. the gearbox itself was left unfettered with. as the ratios were superb, and even the clutch was working well after runnin ghte december 2017 drags also.  what i have changed of course, is the shortshifter and knob. went for a Skunk2 dual bend short throw shifter, mated to a Skunk2 weighted aluminium knob. was a costly piece but my god the shift feel is velvet cheesecake. and with all bushings being polyurethane, its just the right tightness with zero play.    the dual bend is what's employed by honda in their factory manual GSR as well, albeit not being as short as this. 

Komisiripala

Komisiripala

 

Project R - Redux - from 2014 to 2018: BRAKES

BRAKES a few upgrades happened along the way to the braking as well. firstly i replaced the master cylinder and pump with a brand new honda item, and flushed the whole system out for DOT4 brake oil.  the rotors were upgraded again, as i had opted for 114.4x5 PCD hubs and the OEM ITR alloys, both components hunted down from scrapyards in dubai. i put in a brand new set of cross drilled and slotted aftermarket rotors. the brake pads are EBC green stuff.  the front hubs, were replaced with the 5 lug ITR hubs. the caliper and rotor of which, i have read is the same as the one on the NSX.  the brake lines were replaced with steel-kevlar cross braided ones form Stop-tech.    this improved the brake bite and force phenomenally. the car would stop on a dime and the brakes almost felt like an on-off switch! if the acceleration doesn't wow you on this car, the braking sure will!   

Komisiripala

Komisiripala

 

Project R - July 20th 2014

a little activity i would like to blog on after a long time. this might help our newbie Sierra Charlie as well. here's the result of my negative camber on the front wheels. chewed through brand new tyres within an year. its gone down to the wire on the inner lip. i'm buying a new pair tomorrow. this is not a result of me neglecting it, but of me not knowing what else to do after correcting the camber with adjustable upper arms on the front sus. learned later that you get adjustable upper arm mounting points, and got them down only this month: these give an added 3 degrees of camber either way. to clarify, all this brouhaha is because i have an uncorrectable negative camber on the front passenger side wheel. even with full positive setting, there was -2.08 on that side. why only that side i cant figure out. maybe a previous accident. who knows? but as you can see it had its impact on the tyre. now tho, its all aligned perfectly. to add to this, there was a toe out of the rear wheel. this too i didn't know there was adjustment for it. the gut at the alignment center suggested this, and i got down the adjustable toe arms as well. so now the rear alignment is spot on as well. finally. on a separate note, i had some trouble with the AC, and as always, the culprit being our makabaases thinking "ooh this looks like it'll fit! let slap it on!". my compressor packed up, and when we looked into the matter, apparently i've been running a toyota compressor. now the interesting fact is that toyota engines crank one way, and honda the other way! so not quite sure how this managed to work this long even. bottom line is, we had no sample to get a new one from, and after much hunting and frustration, sourced a condenser and compressor off a b20b CRV engine. perfect fit. to clarify my loving fan(s): 1. the camber kit, front and rear, (not available in SL) cost me 50$ 2. recon IACV valve (OS at tech, 27,000) cost me $30 3. shipping for above $45, tax 1500 4. makabaas = NOT indika. not a repair i did.   more on this: despite sanka doing their job, i was still unsure since the wheels LOOKED like they were all askew. so since i had to get new shoes anyways, i had amila recheck the alignment. no fancy computers there, just good old physics and lasers. turns out sanka's alignment was perfect. maybe my eyes were playing tricks on me. so ended up paying the price for bad camber. two new tyres. upgraded from the chinese tyres i had to maxxis victras. love the tread on these:   took her for drive on galle road. pushed it a little. grip is much much better compared to the previous tyres. no skidding when braking hard. no ABS engagement. rolling noise is minimal. alignment feels good. no wobble on thrashing or braking. this is all relative. and i was running shitty tyres due to budget constraints. will eventually swap out the rears for a pair of these as well.   *-UPDATE-* the negative camber was duet to the rubber bushings on the front suspension giving out. it was not an issue with the suspension arms or the chassis. this was later discovered and explained to me by sanka. as the rubber was designed to be on par with the stock spring rates and dampers, it became the weakest link through hich force was dissipated when i switched to coilovers. i had since then replaced all the bushings with prothane PU ones. the camber, caster, and toe now are perfect. the ride however is firmer, and PU bushings tend to creak sometimes. 

Komisiripala

Komisiripala

 

Project R - May 20th 2014

so that was a 1150km round trip, and the car was a blast. those hilly roads between pelmadulla and walawe, and then again between ratnapura and panadura were fantastic. grips the road like its on rails, and the rear comes in just perfectly. not a hint of understeer. rough calculations give me 10kmpl. not bad, i guess! meanwhile in batticaloa... these two chaps were scouting the car and looking around, acting rather cheeky. then one of them "shape eke" leant against it while the other took some photos!    

Komisiripala

Komisiripala

 

Project R - April 1st 2014

after 2 months of waiting, my shifter linkage parts finally arrived. prothane bushings, with brass washers linkage pin and clip. that pin costs 5000 here, but 5$ OEM honda part on ebay. here's the shifter play before installing:   and here's the shifter after installing. feels so silky smooth... almost like hot caramel syrup on hirunika's thigh...   this feels so good, its unbeleivable. really feels like a shifter of a brand new car. well worth the investment. also, got the play in the passenger seat fixed (again. for good this time round tho) and a humming noise in the engine, due to a vacuum valve being faulty. got that replaced as well. now working hard on the said tuning magic, and trying to find a front bumper. this just never ends, does it?? lots more little little things to do.   She's back at ashans for that last great tune up. The BC cams are going to go back in, the proper way this time. And get degreed in, advanced/retarded etc. capped off with a custom tune from Ashan... ... On a hondata s300 version 2.0 chipped ecu    i give the car to ashan on monday. tuesday afternoon i get this photo: first tuning run tomorrow apparently. i'm still wrapping my head around how an engine comes out, cames get instaleld and degreed in, and then goes back in and car drives away all in 48 hours, in sri lanka! apparently, the cams have to be degreed in, while factoring the crank angle as well. which is what is going on here. you learn something new everyday   hummana hummana hummana! so apparently the contents of that box, does this to one's car: that's on third gear. VTEC crossover at 6000rpm. no jerky business. a smooth transition. ashan removed the resonator of the intake to improve air flow. need to customize an intake pipe out to the bottom later. but oh my word...   this is with, of course, silyl shifting by moi, and the tachometer seems to have started to do the disco. going back after avurudu to reign in that bad boy.    

Komisiripala

Komisiripala



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